How to make a sewer private. High-quality sewerage for a private home: how to properly implement the project on your own

A separate section of engineering communications design is planning sewer system. Owners of cottages and country houses Often you have to independently draw up a diagram and install equipment, so knowing the nuances of organizing work is simply necessary.

The efficiency of the system largely depends on whether the sewerage installation in a private house is done correctly - the internal pipe system and the equipment connected to them. For competent design, it is important to take into account everything: from the choice of components to the material used to manufacture individual elements. And we will tell you how to do it correctly.

Unlike electricity, gas, and water supply systems, which are installed in accordance with documentation certified by certain authorities, sewerage is on its own plot of land and it is allowed to equip the house without permits.

However, one cannot do without a project, as it will protect against errors associated with violation of generally accepted requirements.

For example, one of the common violations is failure to respect boundaries sanitary zone during installation drain hole. The supply and drain systems must not come into contact with each other.

The installation of internal wiring is often associated with errors in the organization of ventilation, incorrect choice of pipe diameter or angle of inclination.

By construction axonometric diagram usually done by specialists. They also perform hydraulic calculations of the internal network and the main line located with outside building. Now there are more interesting option– creation of a sewerage model in 3D format.

3D modeling programs allow you to create an accurate and complete project that simplifies the selection of pipes, fittings, fasteners, and installation methods as much as possible.

They turn to specialists for a project when they want to reduce risks. But there is another option - study sanitary and technical standards, familiarize yourself with internal wiring diagrams, learn to understand the quality of plumbing equipment and draw up a project yourself.

Placement of important system components

The peculiarity of an autonomous sewerage system is that the principles of its arrangement depend on each component in the overall system.

For example, the criterion for selecting a drive for Wastewater is not only the number of people living in the cottage, but also the number of connected sources of drainage of technical and domestic water - from the house, garage, bathhouse, summer kitchen.

An approximate diagram of the interaction between internal and external systems sewerage with the obligatory installation of a drain riser. The cleaning function is performed by a factory-made septic tank

Based on location and main functions, sewerage is divided into 3 categories:

– a network of pipelines from plumbing equipment to the exit outside, beyond the walls of the house;
external– highway from buildings (houses, bathhouses) to treatment equipment;
cleaning systems- storage tanks, wells, settling tanks, biological treatment stations.

When thinking about the internal sewerage layout in the house, you need to take into account the location external highway and cleaning (storage) equipment.

Work planning and scheme selection

The installation of sewer pipes is usually carried out together with the installation of a water supply system; accordingly, it is better to design these two systems together.

If we summarize all the documents that make up the project and try to act according to the rules, we will get the following list:

General data - description and conditions for installation of water supply and sanitation systems based on regulatory documents.
Explication of the premises (explanation of the diagram) indicating wet areas and the method of waterproofing them.
Calculation of water consumption and wastewater disposal volumes taking into account standards.
Floor plan for the location of the water supply system and axonometric diagram.
Floor plan for sewerage location.
Specification - a listing of all components with an indication of quantity or footage.

You can refuse to install additional ventilation equipment, but provided that a private house no higher than 2 floors, and the load on the sewer network is minimal.

If many people live in the building, the number of bathrooms is more than 2, and wastewater is discharged to a treatment facility, then installation fan pipe required. Thanks to it, the atmosphere in the house will be healthy, and the water from the water seals will not disappear anywhere due to the pressure difference in the network.

Features of wiring in a multi-storey building

The number of risers does not increase due to the presence of the 2nd or 3rd floors, but the connection diagram becomes more complicated, since branches are present on all floors. For multi-storey buildings there is a “code” set out in SNiP documents.

July 7, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Of course, it is best if the sewerage installation in a private house is done with your own hands simultaneously with laying the foundation, even before the construction of the building frame. Of course, this requires preliminary design and planning, but this way you can avoid difficult passages through the foundation strip and dismantling the floor covering.

But, despite such features, there are certain requirements for laying the pipeline, which I want to talk about in more detail and invite you to watch the video in this article.

Installation of sewerage pipeline

Five important requirements

First, I want to list you five basic requirements, without which not a single installation of sewer pipes in a private house can be done. But I will do this briefly in order to focus your attention on further instructions on installation.

In any case, no matter where you lay the sewer pipeline - in a house, in an apartment, in a basement, by air or underground, you will have to maintain a certain slope, and different for each diameter. Of particular importance are main pipes leading into a storage or flow tank - the quality of the drain depends on the correct slope. If you make it more than necessary, then the water will wash the feces without washing them away, and if it is less, then again the preconditions for clogging will be created due to the low intensity of fluid movement.
If this is a sewerage installation in an apartment, then there are short sections of pipeline, but in a private house they increase significantly, which requires inserting revisions. In addition, in cases where the length of the route on a site exceeds 10 m, inspection wells should be installed there.
When laying a sewer system in a private house (underground installation is meant), certain distances to objects and structures must be observed, which are discussed in SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85.
To avoid freezing of the system in winter, the pipeline must be laid at or below the zero freezing point of the soil. But since in some regions of Russia this limit is deeper than two meters, in such cases they often resort to installing thermal insulation.
Pipes should be laid only on a sand cushion and covered with it, as shown in the photo in the subtitle. This protects PVC from deformation and damage from sharp stones and metal objects.

Indoor sewerage

First of all, you should firmly understand that the sewerage layout in a private house or apartment, that is, indoors, remains the same in principle. In 99% of the most extreme point There will always be a toilet flush - this is a 110 mm pipe into which all other bathrooms are already inserted - an example of such a device is shown in the top diagram.

In any case, at the exit from the room, be it a riser or a sun lounger, a 110 pipe is used, although on the street or in the basement the diameter may increase if other waste systems are connected there.

Of course, the slope in the room is also important - this does not apply except to automatic washing machine where the drainage is forced, a counter-slope is even possible if the characteristics of the room require it.

In addition, the room may have risers between floors or leading to the main drainage line - here, too, a diameter of 110 mm is used for polyvinyl chloride. But for the correct distribution of slopes, you better use the table that I give below.

Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes

To connect pipes to each other, to make turns and to change to another diameter, special fittings and rubber reductions are used - with their help, all, even the most complex, connections are made. Basically, sewerage is installed in the bathroom and toilet, that is, where the concentration of most of plumbing, but a tie-in from the sink and dishwasher is also added there.

An automatic washing machine can be installed both in the bathroom and in the kitchen and it is not at all necessary to make a separate drain for it. Currently, siphons with a special outlet are produced, as shown in the top photo.

By by and large, a dishwasher can also be connected to such an outlet, but I personally prefer to make a drain for this with a 32 mm pipe, cutting it into a 50 mm one through a tee and a rubber reduction - it’s more reliable.

The pipeline to the wall or floor must be fixed with metal or plastic brackets - they are sold in stores for any diameter you need. But such consoles occupy a certain place, and if the wiring is done in the basement or other technical room, which does not need to be decorated, then this is exactly the fastener.

If you need to hide the pipes, then certain inconveniences arise. Personally, in such cases, I resort to perforated metal strip hangers - I simply pull the pipe to the plane with them, like a clamp - this saves space.

It happens that during assembly, one pipe fits very tightly into the socket of another, crushing the rubber sealing ring - this usually happens when elements are connected from different manufacturers.
In such cases, I lubricate the rubber ring with liquid dishwashing detergent, and all problems are left behind.

Underground pipeline installation on the street

City and surrounding areas	Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Orsk, Kurgan	200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Ekaterinburg, Perm	190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar	180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk	170
Samara, Ulyanovsk	160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda	150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan	140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd	120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov	110
Astrakhan, Belgorod	100
Rostov-on-Don	90
Stavropol	80
Kaliningrad	70
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220

Table of soil freezing to 0⁰C in Russia

As you can see from the table above, the depth of soil freezing in different regions Russia is very different from each other. Moreover, this indicator may differ in the same area - this change is determined by the height of the area above sea level and the condition or type of soil.

Therefore, I recommend that you use existing experience to determine the freezing depth. That is, simply find out from neighbors or friends at what depth their water supply is laid and whether it freezes - this is the best guide.

As I already said, instructions for deepening a pipeline can sometimes be too difficult to follow due to the level of soil freezing in some regions. Therefore, if the route is installed at a depth accessible to negative temperatures, you will need thermal insulation - extruded polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool can be used for this.

There are also special insulation materials that are produced in the form of a shell (with or without foil coating) - they can be made of two halves, or in the form of the same pipe, but with longitudinal section for installation.

I resort to shells only if the owner of the object wants it, since they are quite expensive, although High Quality. It is much cheaper to do this with mineral wool - wrap the pipeline, fix the wool with nylon thread, and then cover the whole thing with roofing felt, like a bandage - it is better to fix it with tape or wire.

Only here you need either basalt or glass wool - slag wool has iron particles that rust, causing the insulation to sag.

You will nullify everything if, having insulated the route, you leave inspection wells, storage tanks and a septic tank without insulation - you will end up with bare areas that will be. To insulate them, you can also use mineral wool or polystyrene foam, but it is much cheaper to do it with expanded clay, but it also requires waterproofing - just cover the pit with roofing felt.

Table of required distances between various objects and sewerage

In the third paragraph of the title about important requirements I mentioned the norms of distances that must be maintained between the sewer system and various objects and structures - these norms are indicated in the table above. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to strictly adhere to such provisions, or your “well-wishing” neighbors may unreasonably claim this.

Therefore, you can formalize all this by inviting representatives of the BTI and signing the act of acceptance of the system and releases internal sewerage- this will solve such problems.

Laying stages: 1 - pour a pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - cover it with sand

And now I will tell you how the process of laying a pipeline in a trench with your own hands to a storage or flow tank occurs - the essence of the process is shown in the photographs above. After you have dug a trench, you need to pour a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 29 mm into it and level it in accordance with the required slope (18-20 mm/m linear for the 110th pipe).

Then you lay the pipeline itself, check the slope again and again fill it with sand so that the thickness of the layer above the upper wall reaches 5-6 cm - this will prevent sharp stones and metal objects from breaking through the pipe under soil pressure.

Before filling the trench with soil, you need to compact the sand, but due to the instability of the material, this is quite difficult to do.
I do it differently - I water the sand generously, and it immediately sags to the desired state, after which you can immediately pour in the soil.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to add that you may need pipeline insulation not only underground, but also in the house if the walls are not thick enough. In addition, thermal insulation does not replace the sand cushion. But if you still have questions about this topic, ask them in the comments.

July 7, 2016

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If it is not possible to connect the house to the central sewer system, the only option is an autonomous sewer system in a private house - it is not too difficult to do it yourself, but if necessary, you can attract specialists and special equipment to perform some work. The cost of the project as a whole and the time for its implementation depend on individual characteristics.

Wastewater disposal is one of the determining issues when choosing an autonomous sewage system. The comfort of living largely depends on the correct choice and efficiency of the treatment or storage facility.

In order to compare possible options it was simpler, we will briefly list the features, advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

DIY buildings

Sealed cesspool, on the one hand, is a classic, on the other, this classic is increasingly losing ground to more advanced and economical designs due to its main drawback - the need to periodically call a sewer truck to pump out the contents. The services of vacuum cleaners are not only a hassle, but also an inevitable expense. At the same time, during the construction phase, a cesspool is the cheapest option.

Self-built septic tanks depending on the design, they can significantly increase the time intervals between pumping out wastewater or allow you to do without sewage systems altogether, limiting yourself to cleaning the structure once a year or even less often. Undoubtedly, you will have to buy materials for building septic tanks yourself, but from an economic point of view there are certain advantages:

You can use used materials,
the cost of materials is lower than the finished structure,
there is no need to spend money on work (with the rare exception of the necessary use of lifting equipment).

Materials for the manufacture of tanks for self-construction can serve:

concrete rings,
concrete (for poured construction),
brick,
large plastic containers (Eurocubes).

Ready solutions

Ready-made septic tanks can be energy-dependent or autonomous. Requiring and not requiring pumping.

There are two main categories of sewage disposal equipment available on the market.

1. Non-volatile factory septic tanks differ in their operational capabilities and, accordingly, in cost. The more efficiently a septic tank works (performance, degree of purification), the more it costs, however, the higher the level of comfort and the less effort required for maintenance.

The photo shows an autonomous sewage system based on a non-volatile septic tank with wastewater treatment in filtration fields

2. Local treatment stations (LTP) are quite expensive, but more efficient structures with the ability to purify wastewater, removing up to 98-99% of impurities and obtaining water suitable for irrigation. Balanced systems and bioremediation methods used make VOCs safe and easy to use. The main disadvantage of VOCs is the high cost of equipment and the need for electricity consumption.

The most popular models of ready-made treatment structures are:

Tank,
Unilos,
Tver,
Topas.

It may be useful for you to set up a treatment plant yourself if you decide to choose this material.

And about the construction of a brick septic tank.

How to install a septic tank Tank, as well as about its structure, we described on this page

System design

An autonomous sewage system in a private house will work flawlessly only if during its construction all the nuances of operation are taken into account as much as possible, including:

average daily volume of water consumption (the volume of the tank must be at least three daily norms),
number of drain points,
terrain (it is better to place a treatment or storage facility at the lowest point),
groundwater level (the design of the tank and its operation must exclude the possibility of contamination),
location of key facilities on the site (there are sanitary standards, defining the minimum permissible distances to sources drinking water, windows and doors of a residential building, fruit trees and vegetable garden, highway, etc.).

When you design an autonomous sewer system with your own hands, the diagram includes:

external communications and treatment facility,
internal pipelines and equipment,
ventilation system.

To ensure that the developed system fully complies with operating conditions and does not experience overloads, the following items are included in the project:

number of residents (including a separately calculated number of possible seasonally visiting relatives in the house),
the possible number of short-term guests visiting the house at the same time,
number of water intake points and their type (equipping them with one or another equipment),
layout of the site (optimally if a diagram is attached indicating the linear dimensions, area, location of the house, outbuildings, sources of drinking water).

Installation of sewer system

In order to understand how to make an autonomous sewer system in a private house, you can consider the entire complex of work, dividing it into separate blocks.

External communications

An external pipeline is a line from a residential building to a wastewater collection or treatment site. The ideal option would be a straight line from one point to another, made with the necessary slope, however, it is not always possible to lay a highway in this way.

In addition, it is possible to insert additional outlets into this main line (drains from a shower room, bathhouse, etc.). All bends and tappings pose a potential risk for blockages, since changes in flow speed can cause solids to become trapped on the pipe walls.

Due to this Certain rules must be followed:

To avoid sudden changes in the direction of movement of drains, which can cause blockages, oblique crosses and tees, as well as bends with angles of 15, 30 and 45 degrees, are used for installation.
All places of direction changes and insertions are supplemented with inspection wells.

One more important point is selection of pipes for the external system. It is possible to use products from:

plastic,
cast iron

PVC plastic pipes for external sewerage should be orange, and for internal sewerage - gray

When choosing, not only the cost, but also the characteristics of the pipes are taken into account.

If there is drainage from a dishwasher and washing machine down the drain, it is better not to use polymer materials, sensitive to high temperature at least at the beginning of the main line, where the wastewater has not yet cooled down.
In areas laid under paths, sidewalks and, especially, under the road, only the strongest cast iron pipes are used for vehicles to enter the area.

There are other nuances that should be taken into account when deciding how to install an autonomous sewer system in a private house.

Too high or too low a flow rate can cause blockages, so it is important to ensure that stable slope 2%(2 cm of level decrease for each meter of length).
External communications are laid in trenches, the depth of which should be greater than the depth of soil freezing in a given region).
Communications require mandatory thermal insulation if it is not possible to lay them below the soil freezing level. When laying in a non-freezing layer, you can do without additional protection
For the longevity of the system, all pipes except plastic ones must also be protected from moisture.
In addition to inspection wells in difficult places in the system, similar structures are installed along the entire length at the rate of 1 well per 10-15 meters of the main line.

Internal system

Do-it-yourself internal autonomous sewage system in a private house is made from polypropylene or PVC pipes. In this case, the temperature of the effluent and the susceptibility of the material must also be taken into account.

The diameter of the pipes is selected depending on the volume and type of waste at each point. For washbasins, outlets with a diameter of 50 mm are sufficient, and for toilets and general collectors - 110 mm. The amount of slope required for the flow of waste without delays and the formation of traffic jams depends on the diameter of the main: for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm it is 3% (3 cm for each meter of length), and for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm – 2% (2 cm).

To prevent backflow when a blockage occurs It is recommended to install check valves(for each branch separately or common to the collector pipeline). When installing internal sewer systems also water seals are used or that can prevent entry into the premises unpleasant odors from the sewer.

The most important element of the sewer system is the connection point between its internal and external components, the so-called outlet from the house, which is the transition of the intra-house collector with the main line transporting wastewater to the septic tank.

If the sewerage system is installed in an already built house, it is possible to install the outlet above the ground surface. In this case you will need high-quality thermal insulation to prevent freezing.
Release through the foundation below the soil freezing level reduces the risk and is preferable. The possibility of drilling a hole for laying a pipe after the construction of a building is determined individually. It is best to arrange such an exit at the construction stage.
The exhaust pipe must pass through the wall with the installation of a sleeve, which protects the exhaust pipe from damage and deformation. As a rule, a pipe section acts as a sleeve larger diameter(10-15 cm), allowing the installation of an exhaust pipe into it and protruding 10 cm beyond the foundation on both sides.
When drilling a hole and installing a sleeve, it is important to take into account the need to slope the communications towards the septic tank. The position of the sleeve can determine the magnitude of this slope.

Ventilation of the sewer system

How the autonomous sewage system of a private house works largely depends on efficiency. The latter is designed to normalize the pressure in the pipelines, which changes when water is drained, and also to remove gases from the system. The presence of ventilation also allows you to extend the life of the system, eliminating the possibility.

In addition, the timely flow of air into the rarefaction zone that occurs when water is drained eliminates the possibility of its capture from siphons, which is usually accompanied by unpleasant sounds. The classic solution is to lead its free end to the roof.

During construction, certain requirements and features should be taken into account.

The vent pipe should be located on the roof higher than the others (smoke pipe, house ventilation).
The horizontal distance from the drain pipe to the nearest window or balcony must be at least 4 m.
The optimal diameter of the fan pipe is 110 mm (the same as the diameter of the internal riser). On the one hand, it provides the necessary traction, on the other hand, with such a value, partial narrowing of the passage due to the formation of ice in frosty weather is not critical for the system.

The installation of an autonomous sewer system in a private house is increasingly supplemented, which can replace general ventilation or work together with it. Diaphragm or rod designs respond to changes in pressure. Depending on the model, the valves can operate only for inlet or for inlet and outlet of air. Valves can be installed on a common pipeline or on branches of individual plumbing structures. It is often advisable to install such a device only at the outlet of the washing machine, since it is this device that drains water with a certain pressure, thereby sharply changing the pressure in the pipeline.

The outdoor toilet with a cesspool is gradually becoming a thing of the past. New house and even small dacha should delight owners with comfort and amenities normal for the 21st century. The device is a completely affordable and safe event for construction, if you approach the design wisely and use it modern materials and technology. When building a house, the drainage system is laid out at the design stage, along with other utilities, but even in an old house it is quite possible to organize the construction of a bathroom with an urban level of comfort.

All private houses can be divided into two categories - those that can be connected to a centralized city or village sewerage system, and those that cannot. The progress of work and the installation of communications inside the premises will be the same for these cases; the only significant difference will be in the organization of wastewater disposal.

General principles for installing sewerage in a private house

Fundamentally, the sewer system in a private house, as in a city apartment, consists of a vertical riser and pipes of smaller diameter, through which wastewater from a sink, toilet, etc. flows into it by gravity. Then the wastewater flows into horizontally located large-diameter pipes, and from them into a centralized sewerage system or local autonomous treatment facilities.

When planning a sewer system in a house under construction, it is worth placing the kitchen and bathrooms nearby, preferably near the place where the sewer line goes out onto the street. If the house is two-story, then the bathrooms should be located one below the other to reduce the number of risers and simplify the installation of the system and its subsequent maintenance.

IN big house with a large number of bathrooms, with a complex sewer system, rational installation sewage pump. A pump may also be needed if the area has absolutely no slope.

When designing a sewer system, the following are also taken into account:

landscape of the site - wastewater flows downwards and the septic tank or cesspool should be located at its lowest point,
the type of soil, its freezing and the height of groundwater - the depth of the external sewerage pipes and the choice of treatment facilities depend on this

Selection of materials

On modern stage polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride are the best option. They are inexpensive, easy to transport and install, and do not require assembly. welding machine. In addition to pipes you will need connecting elements: elbows of various configurations, fittings, tees, inspection hatches. The joints are additionally treated with sealant.

The diameter of the pipes depends on the volume of wastewater and the number of devices connected to the system. In any case, the diameter of the pipe from the plumbing fixture must be equal to or greater than its drain pipe. The diameter of the pipe for the riser should be from 100 mm if a toilet is connected to it, and from 50 mm if there is no toilet. The length of the pipes from the device to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and from the toilet - 1 m. If this distance needs to be increased, then pipes are taken of a larger diameter.

Installation of pipes and plumbing connections

Before assembling the system, it is better to draw it in detail or design it in computer program. All horizontal pipes of the internal sewerage must slope from the device to the riser at the rate of 2-15 cm per 1 m. If you need to turn the pipe 90 degrees, it is better to do this smoothly, using 2 elbows at 45 or 3 elbows at 30 degrees, for prevent blockages.

The toilet is connected to the vertical riser separately to avoid emptying the siphons in the plumbing when draining the water. Moreover, the remaining devices must be connected above the toilet to prevent waste from entering them.

The sewer risers on each floor in the lower part are equipped with inspection hatches. For sound insulation, they can be wrapped in a layer mineral wool or cover with a plasterboard box.

Sanitary fixtures are connected to the pipes through a U-shaped siphon, the lower part of which always contains some water. Foul gases from the sewer system cannot pass through this barrier. Some sinks and bathtubs are sold already with a siphon, for others you will need to purchase it additionally; toilets have a built-in siphon.

The riser is connected to external pipes using horizontal pipes of the same or larger diameter located in the basement, basement or under the floor. Such pipes are also equipped with inspection hatches (mandatory at turns). When connecting them, you should avoid right angles and complex turns. If the pipe runs in the ground or unheated room, then it needs to be well insulated. At the exit point from the house, all sewer pipes are collected together and connected to the external sewer system through a hole in the foundation.

Sewer pipes are attached to the walls using clamps. Additional fastenings are installed near the points of insertion into the riser, connections and transitions.

Sewage ventilation

A large amount of abruptly drained water, for example from a toilet cistern, moving through a pipe, creates an area of discharged space behind it. If there is no air entering the system, water leaves the siphons of plumbing fixtures along this pipe, and an unpleasant odor appears. For this reason, the sewer system must be equipped with its own ventilation.

For the pipe, the risers are extended to the roof; the upper end is not closed, but is reliably hidden from precipitation and debris. You can do it differently; an aeration valve is installed at the top of the riser, which does not release odors, but conducts air inside, which prevents the air from being discharged in the pipe.

External sewerage

Outside the home, it is also optimal to use polymer pipes. To lay them, a trench is dug to the depth of soil freezing, a sand cushion is poured onto its bottom, and then pipes are laid at a slope of 2-3%. If it is impossible to ensure a sufficiently deep burial, then it is necessary to carefully insulate the pipes.

Inspection hatches are installed at the connection point to the house and near the junction with the central sewerage system or autonomous wastewater treatment plants. It is advisable to install it in a pipe check valve. It will protect the home sewer system from the ingress of sewage from outside, for example, when it overflows cesspool, and from the penetration of rodents through pipes.

Treatment plants

An autonomous sewer at the end may have:

cesspool,
biological treatment station.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages, but, in general, a cesspool can only be recommended for dachas where people do not live permanently, or for small houses for 1-2 people. A biological treatment station is expensive, but after its installation, maintenance and emptying will have to be resorted to extremely rarely. A septic tank is the best option; you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself.

A properly designed and installed sewer system will make living in own home even more comfortable.

Living in a private house, you want to create maximum comfort for your family, providing high level life, so it is very important to think in advance about such an important issue as sewerage. You can do sewerage in a private house with your own hands. This article will help you complete all the work correctly, competently and without harm to the environment.

When you independently build a sewer system in a private house, you can save a lot, but it is very important to carry out all the work correctly, in accordance with all the requirements for construction and installation work of this kind.

The choice of sewer system layout should be made in accordance with the layout of a particular house. When planning a house, it is recommended to provide for compact placement of premises for which water supply and drainage will be carried out (showers, bathrooms, laundries, bathrooms, etc.). But most the best option there will be such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one pipe (collector), through which wastewater will flow into a cesspool or septic tank.

Experts advise that if you have a large house that has several various rooms with drainage and supply of water located in different parts building, give preference to a sewer system design that will have at least two (and sometimes more) cesspools or septic tanks. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and bathrooms, toilets and kitchens are located on different floors, then in this case you will need to install risers.

Types of sewerage

All work on constructing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands comes down to the arrangement of external and internal sewage systems. Work on internal sewerage can include installation of a drain pipe, riser and pipe routing to rooms such as a shower room, kitchen, toilet, etc. To external or external sewerage This includes everything that is located outside the house, that is, a system of pipes running from the house to a deep cleaning station (quite expensive ready-made solution) or up to homemade septic tank(with a filtering field or cumulative). Of course, if you have the opportunity to connect to centralized system discharge of wastewater, the task will be greatly simplified. But in this article we will consider exactly autonomous system, including effective cleaning wastewater in a septic tank, but such a primitive method as a cesspool.

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the internal circuit. Even at this stage, it is necessary to think about ensuring that all the rooms to which the sewerage system will be connected are located as close as possible to each other, since subsequently this approach will significantly simplify the arrangement of the internal sewerage system. Each house requires an individual sewerage system, which can be very diverse.

In this case, one should take into account the fact that in the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used to drain wastewater. For gray waste that will flow into the sewer from the kitchen or bathroom, PP or PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 mm should be used. All turns must be made using two plastic elbows bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will further minimize the possibility of clogging, which is quite problematic to remove. It is more reliable and cheaper to use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polypropylene (PP) pipes in the sewerage system, as they are more durable, more reliable and cheaper than cast iron. And besides this, mount internal system Sewerage with the help of such pipes is much simpler.

First of all, you need to decide where exactly the collector pipe or riser will be located, and only then do further wiring from it.

But before that, you should more accurately understand how you can independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, because in the future, using this scheme, it will be possible to make a full calculation of everything (plumbing equipment and materials) that you will need to arrange a sewerage system.

You can make a sewerage diagram on a piece of checkered paper, but it is advisable to purchase several sheets of graph paper for this task. In addition, you will need a tape measure, a ruler and a sharp pencil.

For a private house, the sewerage diagram is drawn up in the following sequence:

First you need to draw it to scale. If you don’t know the dimensions of the house, you will have to walk around with a tape measure and measure everything;
Next, you need to decide where the risers will be located;
after this, it is necessary to mark on the plan the locations of plumbing fixtures and decide how they will be connected;
on next stage it is necessary to note the pipes that will go from the fittings and riser to the plumbing fixtures, as well as all connecting elements (tees, bends, etc.);
everything listed above should be done for each floor of your house;
then you need to decide on the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
now all that remains is to sum up the length of all the pipes related to the internal sewage system;
the next stage will be the external system, at which it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the external sewerage system, which includes pipes running from the deep treatment station or septic tank to the outlet. Do not forget to take into account all existing SNiPs.

Since the conditions inside and outside the house are very different, the pipes used for these two sewerage schemes are different. Currently, PP and PVC pipes, which have a characteristic gray color, are most often used for laying internal sewerage pipes. For sun loungers and risers, the diameter of such pipes is 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. But do not forget that these pipes are intended only for internal sewerage, and for external sewerage it is necessary to use other solutions.

Most often, pipes that are laid underground from a deep treatment station or septic tank to discharge are painted in Orange color, which can be explained very simply - the bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground compared to the rest. But pipes for external sewerage differ from others not only in color - they are subject to completely different requirements. Such pipes have greater rigidity, since they will have to withstand significant loads while underground. There are more durable structures, an example of which would be double-layer corrugated pipes. But the depth of laying pipes when constructing a sewerage system for a private house is usually small (most often up to 2 meters), so there is no need to use such pipes. Red pipes most often have a diameter of 110 mm, this should be sufficient to drain wastewater from the house.

Cast iron

Advantages: able to withstand heavy loads, durable and strong.

Flaws: expensive, heavy and fragile, roughness may form on the inside due to corrosion, which can cause a blockage.

Polypropylene

Advantages: lightweight and flexible, making them most popular for indoor sewerage. They can withstand high wastewater temperatures without problems.

Flaws: If used as intended, there are no disadvantages.

Polyvinyl chloride

Advantages: similar to cast iron, inexpensive and lightweight. Most often used for external sewerage.

Flaws: They do not tolerate high temperatures of wastewater and are fragile (they do not bend, but crack).

Pipe laying

Probably the most labor-intensive process when constructing a private house with your own hands is the routing and laying of pipes. If you decide to do this work yourself, be sure to call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also the speed. It is also recommended to first check the tightness of the system by flushing clean water, and only then, having made sure that all the seams are secure, you can begin full operation.

It was said earlier that the most simple option PP or PVC pipes will be used for sewerage. Currently in the construction market there is a large number of offers of these products, so it will not be difficult for you to find revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes, which are reliably and easily connected at the joining points due to the presence rubber cuffs. If desired, all joints can be additionally treated with a special plumbing sealant. And in those places where labor passes through a wall or ceiling, it is recommended to install a sleeve.

It is also necessary to remember about the slope of the pipes. In accordance with SNiP, in a free-flow system, the angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm it is necessary to create a slope of at least 3 cm per meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per meter. Do not forget about this, since you will need to place various points in the pipeline on different heights, to ensure the required slope.

In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and external sewerage systems, it is necessary to begin the installation of sewerage in the house from the outlet. The outlet is the boundary part of the sewer system that connects the pipe leading to the septic tank with the pipe that leaves the house (riser).

The outlet must be installed through the foundation at a depth exceeding the soil freezing depth that corresponds to your region. You can install the outlet higher, but to do this you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If this is not done, then there is a high probability that you will only be able to use the toilet in the spring, after the weather warms up.

If this is not taken care of, then you will need to punch a hole in the foundation that will accommodate the outlet pipe with the sleeve. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe whose diameter is larger than that of a sewer pipe (130-160 mm). Such a sleeve should protrude at least 15 cm on both sides of the foundation.

Summarizing the above, we can say that at this stage you need to make a hole in the foundation (if it is not there) and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Do not forget that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. And the sleeve is needed in order to set the required slope of the pipe towards the septic tank (2 cm per meter).

It is best to place the riser in the toilet, since the recommended size of the pipe that goes from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted either openly or hidden, depending on how the pipes will be mounted - in special boxes, walls, channels and niches or next to walls (fastening with pendants, clamps, etc.).

In order to connect sewer pipes to the riser, oblique tees should be used, and adapters should be used at the joints of pipes that differ in diameter. Where pipes from sinks, bathtubs and showers intersect, it is necessary to install a collector pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also, don't forget about water seals, which will help protect your sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

It is imperative to install a special tee (inspection) on each riser, with the help of which it will be possible, if necessary, to clear the blockage. In order to avoid having to carry out sewer cleaning work in the future, it is necessary to install cleaning after each turn.

The removal and installation of the vent pipe plays a very important role, since the vent pipe is needed for:

maintaining atmospheric pressure inside the system so that water hammer and air vacuum do not occur;
increasing the durability of the sewer system;
ventilation of the entire sewage system, which in turn is necessary for efficient work septic tank

A fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that is led to. Before connecting the fan pipe and the riser, it is necessary to install an inspection. After this, you need to bring the pipe at a convenient angle into the attic.

It is not recommended to simplify the work by combining the drain pipe (sewer ventilation) with the chimney or ventilation of the house. Moreover, it is necessary to locate the exhaust pipe outlet away from windows and balconies, at a distance of at least 4 meters. The height of the indentation from the roof should not be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to place the sewerage ventilation, chimney and ventilation of the house at different levels.

To summarize all of the above, we can say the following:

At the first stage, you should start compiling detailed diagram wiring, minimizing as much as possible the distance from plumbing fixtures to the riser;
it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes that go to the riser as additional devices are connected. The diameter should not be reduced;
need to stick to simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be to the riser. The toilet should be located closest to the riser;
when installing sewerage in a private house, it should be excluded sharp corners, and pipes must be laid with a certain slope;
where blockages may form in the future, cleaning and inspection must be provided in advance;
To ventilate the system, a fan pipe must be present in the wiring diagram.

You can install a sewer system in a private house with your own hands different ways, which will be discussed below. It is very important to choose the right system that will satisfy all your needs.

It is necessary to select a scheme for arranging a sewerage system taking into account certain parameters:

temporary or permanent residence in the house;
the number of people living in the house permanently;
how much water each person uses daily (depending on the availability of a washing machine, washbasin, sink, toilet, shower, bath, etc.);
at what level does groundwater lie?
what size is your site and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
what type and structure of soil;
climatic conditions.

To get more detailed information, you should study all relevant sections of SNiP and SanPin.

All sewer systems for a private home can be divided into two types:

storage systems (sealed container for wastewater, cesspool without a bottom);
structures designed for wastewater treatment (aeration tank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with two or three chambers and a filtration field, a septic tank with two overflowing wells and natural purification, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil purification).

A cesspool is the most ancient and centuries-tested method of arranging a sewer system. This method had no alternative 50-70 years ago. It is true that in those days people did not use as much water in a private home as they do now.

In essence, a cesspool is a well that has no bottom. In the cesspool you can make walls of concrete, concrete rings, brick or other material, and leave soil as the bottom. After sewage from the house enters the pit, relatively pure water will, when cleansed, seep into the soil, and solid organic waste and fecal matter will accumulate, settling to the bottom. When over time the well becomes completely filled with solid waste, it will need to be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, so when it was full, it was buried, and another was dug up in another place.

It should be noted that it is possible to install a sewer system in a private house using a cesspool only when the volume of average daily waste does not exceed one cubic meter. Only in this case will soil microorganisms living in the soil and feeding on organic matter be able to process the water that will penetrate through the bottom of the pit into the soil. And if the volume of wastewater exceeds this norm, the water will not receive the necessary purification, which will lead to groundwater contamination. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated. If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, this will slightly reduce the unpleasant odor that comes from it, and will also speed up the process of water purification. But it's still not worth the risk.

Conclusion. It is worth building a cesspool that does not have a bottom only when people do not live in the house permanently, but visit it several times a week, without using a lot of water. Also, it is worth paying attention to the fact that groundwater must lie at least one meter below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to avoid contamination of water sources and soil. The cesspool has the lowest cost, but even despite this, it is currently not popular in cottages and modern country houses.

In this case, it is necessary to install a sealed container near the house into which wastewater will flow from the entire house through pipes. You can purchase a ready-made container in the store, which can be made of metal, plastic or other material. But if you wish, you can make such a container with your own hands from concrete rings. The lid can be made of metal, and the bottom can be made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of a sewer system of this type is complete tightness. For this type of sewerage, you can use pragma corrugated pipes.

Such a container will definitely need to be cleaned when it is completely filled, for which you will have to call a sewer truck, which will cost you from 15 to 30 USD. The required volume of the tank and the frequency of emptying it depend on the volume of wastewater. For example, if four people permanently live in a house and use a washing machine, toilet, sink, shower and bathtub, then storage tank must have a volume of at least 8 cubic meters, and it will need to be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Conclusion. If the groundwater in your area is quite high, then as an option for arranging a sewage system at home, you can use a sealed cesspool. With its help, you can completely protect water sources and soil from possible contamination. But the downside of such a system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. For the same reason, it is necessary to think in advance about the place where the pit will be placed so that there is convenient access to it. The bottom of the container or pit should not be deeper than three meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom. The lid of the storage tank must be insulated so that the pipeline is protected from freezing. The cost of such a container will directly depend on its volume and the material from which it will be made. Using used Eurocubes will be the cheapest option, and the most expensive is brick or concrete pouring. Also, do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the container.

The simplest option for soil cleaning is a single-chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is not very different from a regular cesspool, and sometimes it is called that. This structure is essentially a well, in which the bottom is covered with a small layer of crushed stone (at least 30 cm), and coarse sand is covered with the same layer on top of the crushed stone. In this case, wastewater from the house flows through pipes into the well, where the water then seeps through sand, crushed stone and soil, being purified by 50%. Of course, crushed stone and sand significantly improve the quality of water purification, but this does not fundamentally solve the problem.

Conclusion. It is not recommended to build a sewer system in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or large volume Wastewater. This option can only be used with low level groundwater and temporary residence. It will also be necessary to periodically change crushed stone and sand, as they will silt.

The construction of filter wells and overflow settling wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewerage in a private house, in addition this option Quite economical and can be installed independently.

This sewer system consists of two wells: the first well has a sealed bottom, and the second has no bottom, but is sprinkled with crushed stone and sand.

From the house, wastewater flows into the first well, in which feces and solid waste sink to the bottom, and fatty waste floats to the surface. Between these two layers, relatively clear water is formed. The first well is connected to the second at about 2/3 of its height by an overflow pipe, which is located at a slight slope, allowing water to flow there freely. The second well receives slightly clarified water, which then seeps through sand, crushed stone and soil, purifying itself even more.

The first well serves as a sump, and the second - a filter well. From time to time, the first well will fill with feces and you will need to call a sewer truck to clean it out. This needs to be done approximately once every six months. In order to reduce the amount of unpleasant odors, you need to add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.

The two-chamber described above can be made with your own hands from brick, concrete or concrete rings, or you can purchase a ready-made one from the manufacturer plastic septic tank, in which additional cleaning will be carried out using special microorganisms.

Conclusion. It is worth installing a sewerage system based on two overflow wells in a private house only when, even during a flood, the groundwater level is below one meter from the bottom of the second well. If your site has sandy loam or sandy soil then it will be ideal option. But remember that after about five years, the sand and crushed stone in the second well will need to be replaced.

Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one container, which is divided into several separate containers connected by pipes, or into 2-3 sections. Usually, if you want to install this type of sewer system, you purchase a ready-made version.

The first container of the septic tank is designed to settle wastewater, as happens in a conventional settling well. Next, the partially clarified water goes through the pipe into the second section or container, where all existing organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. After this, the more clarified water flows to the filtration fields.

The filtration field is a fairly large (about 30 sq.m.) underground area where wastewater undergoes soil treatment. In this case, the water is purified by approximately 80%, thanks to large area. If the soil on your site is sandy loam or sandy, then this will be an ideal option, but otherwise you will need to build an artificial filtration field from sand and crushed stone. After the water passes through the filtration field, it is collected in pipelines and sent to wells or drainage ditches. It is not allowed to plant edible vegetables and trees above the filtration field; you can only make a flower bed.

Over time, the filtration field will become silted and will need to be cleaned, or rather replaced with sand and crushed stone. This is a very large amount of work, and your site may suffer.

Conclusion. The construction of a sewer system with a filtration field in a private house is recommended only when the groundwater is at a depth of at least 2.5-3 meters. You also need to remember that there must be a distance of at least 30 meters from the filtration field to residential buildings and water sources.

With the help of a deep cleaning station, you can carry out a complete installation of sewerage in a private house, even with a fairly high groundwater level.

This station is a container that is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, checking with professionals in advance about the necessary equipment and volume. The cost of such a septic tank starts from 1200 USD, which is not cheap at all.

The first chamber of this septic tank is designed to settle water, and in the second, organic residues decompose with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third chamber, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed with the help of aerobic bacteria, which necessarily require a constant flow of air. To ensure this condition, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which should rise 50 cm above the ground. In the pipe that leads from the third chamber to the fourth, a filter is installed, into which they add aerobic bacteria. In fact, this is a filtration field, but it is concentrated and more miniature. Due to the higher concentration of microorganisms and the small area of water movement, water purification occurs more thoroughly (up to 90-95%). Water purified in this way can be used for washing a car, watering a garden and much more. A pipe comes from the fourth chamber, which is directed either to a drainage ditch or to a storage tank.

Conclusion. For a private home where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to the septic tank is very simple - you just need to pour them into the toilet. Such a cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not require electricity to operate. The disadvantage is the fact that this station requires permanent residence, since bacteria deprived of wastewater will simply die. If you add new bacteria there, they will start working only after two weeks.

Artificial treatment station - a septic tank with forced air supply

This is practically an accelerated cleaning station in which natural processes occur artificially. Arranging the sewer system of a private house using an aeration tank is not possible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is necessary to connect the air distributor and air pump.

This septic tank has three separate containers or chambers that are connected to each other. Water by sewer pipe first enters the first chamber, in which it settles and precipitates solid waste. Next, the partially clarified water is pumped into the second chamber, which is essentially an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of plants and microorganisms, is mixed with water. All activated sludge bacteria and microorganisms are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is necessary for their vital activity.

Then the water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back into the aeration tank by a special pump.

Thanks to the forced air supply, wastewater treatment occurs quite quickly, and the purified water can be used for various technical needs (watering the garden, washing the car, etc.).

Conclusion. The aeration tank is, of course, quite expensive (from 3700 USD), but at the same time very useful. Installation restrictions of this type There are no sewers. Among the disadvantages, we can note only the need for electricity, as well as permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high groundwater level, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can choose several options:

aeration tank (aeration treatment station);
septic tank with biofilter;
an airtight container in which waste accumulates.

There are certain restrictions on the placement of sewerage system facilities.

Septic tank location:

at least 10 meters from the garden;
at least 20-50 meters from any water sources (pond, well, well);
at least 5 meters from residential buildings.

Residential building location:

300 meters from stations and drainage wells;
50 meters from aeration treatment plants;
25 meters from the filter field;
8 meters from the filter well.

Be sure to make a design for the sewerage system of a private house and do not try to do everything without it, since sewerage is a system in which there can be no approximation. It is best to contact architects or a design office, where professionals will help you create a competent project, taking into account operating conditions, climate, site and soil. It’s even better if you do a sewerage project together with a house project, even before construction begins.

The work itself on installing a sewerage system for a private home is not particularly difficult. You just need to correctly route the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and lead them to the septic tank. For earthworks You can hire an excavator, or you can do them yourself. The main thing is to draw up a project and competently select a sewerage system.