How to make a tank drawings. How to make a tank out of cardboard with your own hands
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Municipal budget educational institution"Verkhovskaya secondary comprehensive school No. 1 "Museum model of the T-34 tank Completed by: 11th grade student Alexander Shakhov Supervisor: technology teacher Oleg Ivanovich Martynov VERKHOVYE 2014
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SELECTION AND JUSTIFICATION OF THE TOPIC OF THE PROJECT I am in the 11th grade, at the school museum of local history I study in the “Local History” club, I also like to make crafts, I am interested in technology. Our museum has a Hall of Military Glory. It contains documents telling about the battles for the liberation of our village from the Nazis, and there are some samples of weapons of the Red Army and Nazi Germany. There are models - copies of the main combat aircraft, made by members of the aircraft modeling circle. Last year I also made a model of the LA-5 fighter plane and donated it to the museum. In 2015, our country celebrates the 70th anniversary of Victory in the Great Patriotic War. In this regard, and after consulting with the head of the museum, I decided that the theme for my project would be to make a model copy of some type of armored vehicle and add it to the museum’s exhibition. 1
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GOALS AND OBJECTIVES Goal: To create an original product useful for school. Objectives: 1.Know and perform modeling techniques. 2. Learn to mentally imagine an object and graphically express it in the form of a technical drawing and drawing. 3.Work with technological documentation. 4.Know and correctly perform operating techniques on machines. 5. Express your opinion in a reasoned manner and accept correct solution when designing. 6. Really evaluate your knowledge and skills. 2
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SELECTION OF PRODUCT OPTIONS Having considered several types of tanks that were in service with the Red Army during WWII, I chose the legendary thirty-four tank, the T-34 tank. In my opinion, it looks very nice and will be easier to make than the others. 3
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The “biography” of the thirty-four began in October 1937, when the tank design bureau of the Kharkov plant received an order from the Main Automotive Armored Directorate of the Red Army to design new car, capable in the future of replacing the BT type tank that was in service. Work has begun on creating a tank with projectile-proof armor. The design of a wheeled-tracked vehicle with 30 mm armor and a 45 mm cannon was carried out at the Kharkov plant in the design department headed by M. Koshkin. A year and a half later, the USSR Defense Committee was presented with a design for a tracked tank, named A-32. On December 19, 1939, the government of the country decided to create an improved version of the A-32 tank - the T-34 medium tank, which later became one of the most famous in the history of world tank construction. Production of the first two experimental thirty-fours began in January 1940. And already at the end of February the tanks set off under their own power for Moscow. After the vehicles were shown in the Kremlin, field tests began. The T-34 was forced to overcome the most difficult obstacles and perform dizzying maneuvers. They were fired at directly with high-explosive and armor-piercing shells. In June 1940, the Politburo of the Central Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks decided to launch production of T-34 tanks. By January 1, 1941, the Kharkov plant managed to produce 115 of the 600 ordered vehicles. 5
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In the spring of 1941, designers and technologists began a tremendous effort to improve and simplify the production of thirty-fours. First of all, this concerned the manufacture of towers. In the first vehicles they were welded from rolled armor plates. This process was complex, time-consuming, and expensive. In an effort to simplify it, engineers developed new technology, which involved welding a turret with an armor thickness of 52mm from just two cast elements. To the beginning of the Great Patriotic War The Red Army already had 1,225 T-34 tanks, of which 967 were in the western districts. The Stalingrad Tractor Plant and the Krasnoye Sormovo plant in Gorky joined production. Both opponents and our allies in the Second World War failed to create a tank superior to the legendary thirty-four. The T-34 was reliable, easy to manufacture, operate and repair, and easy to train. Thirty-fours bore the brunt of the fight against the fascist armored hordes from 1941 to 1945. 6
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DRAWINGS OF THE T-34 -76 TANK I found the drawings of the tank in the “Model Designer” magazines. Using an epidiascope, I enlarged them to the scale I needed, 1:10, then, using them, I developed and cut out of cardboard the hull, turret, and fuel tanks, and made technological maps for manufacturing the main parts of the tank. 8
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SELECTION OF MATERIALS To make my product, I used available and cheap construction materials: wood and metals. For the body I chose galvanized sheet metal, 0.2 mm thick. It bends, solders, and processes well. The metal body allows you to attach and manufacture the smallest parts on it with great reliability using the method of soldering and surfacing of tin with further processing. The tank turret, road wheels and final drive housings are made of birch wood. Birch has white wood with a brownish tint, hard, dense. Well processed and sharpened. Steel St-3 is a cheap, accessible structural material. Durable, well processed, sharpened, soldered. The gun barrel, front guides and rear drive wheels are machined from a steel bar. Copper is a soft metal with an orange-red color. Easily processed, bent, soldered. Copper tubes and wire were used to make exhaust pipes, machine guns, and staples. Tin is soft, heavy metal, silver color, does not oxidize, melts easily. Used as solder and for casting track tracks. 10
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Epoxy universal adhesive. Used for gluing metals, their alloys, glass, wood. Primer GF – 021. Used to coat the product after assembly before painting. Alkyd enamels PF-115 various colors. Soldering acid is a flux for soldering metals. eleven
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SELECTION OF TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1. Lathe TV-6 2. Lathe STD-120 3. Drilling machine 4.Drill 5.Set of files 6.Set of files 7.Set of drills 8.Zhezhevka 9.Jigsaw 10.Plane 11.Ruler 12.Scratcher 13.Puncher 14.Calipers 15.Compass 16.Pencil 17.Awl 18.Knife 19. Hammer 20. Set of brushes 21. Sandpaper 22. Soldering iron 23. Compressor 24. Paint gun 12
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TECHNOLOGICAL CARDS Based on the drawings, with the help of a technology teacher, I developed and compiled technological maps for the manufacture of the main parts and components of the T-34 -75 tank. 13
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MANUFACTURING THE UPPER PART OF A TANK HULL No. Name Qty. Scale Material 1 Upper part of the hull 1 1:10 Sheet Routing № 1 14
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic image Tools Equipment materials 1.Cut the workpiece required sizes Ruler Scribbler Metal scissors Tin 2. Apply the contours of the part to the workpiece Template Scriber Punch 3. Cut out the development of the part. Metal shears File Remove burrs 4. Drill marked holes Drill sled Hand vice Drill 5. Bend the reamer along the fold lines. Solder the corners. Metal shears Bench vice Mandrel Soldering iron 15
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools equipment materials 1. Select a workpiece of the required size Ruler Pencil Hacksaw Wood 2. Mark the contours of the bottom of the tower using a template Pencil Template 3. Mark the contours of the top of the tower using a template Pencil Template 4. Drill a hole to install the barrel of a gun Bench vice Drill Drill 5. Process the part according to the markings. Clean surfaces. Planer Rasp Emery cloth 17
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MANUFACTURING THE SIDE WALL OF THE LOWER PART OF THE TANK HULL No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Side wall 2 1: 10 Tinplate Technological map No. 3 18
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Cut out the workpiece of the required size. Ruler Scribbler Metal scissors Tin 2. Draw the contours of the part according to the template. Template Scriber Punch 3. Cut out the part. Remove burrs. Metal shears File 4.Drill holes Drilling machine Hand vice Drill 19
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Manufacturing of the engine cover No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Engine cover 1 1:10 Tinplate Technological map No. 4 20
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Cut out the workpiece of the required dimensions Ruler Pencil Metal scissors Tin 2. Apply the contours of the part according to the template Template Scratch punch 3. Cut out the part. Remove burrs. Metal scissors File 4. Drill the marked holes. Drilling machine Hand vice Drill 5. Cut out the engine ventilation windows. Remove burrs. Hammer Chisel File 21
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 6. Bend the part along the fold lines. Bench vice Mandrel Hammer Pliers 7. Solder the corners 8. Close the engine ventilation windows with a mesh Soldering iron Soldering acid Solder Soldering iron Soldering acid Solder Metal grid 9. Perform final cleaning of the part File Emery cloth 22
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MANUFACTURING A GUN MUZZLE No. Name Quantity Scale material 1 Gun barrel 1 1: 10 Steel Technological map No. 5 23
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Select a steel bar of the required size. Ruler Hacksaw for metal Rod Bench vice 2. Secure the workpiece in the chuck of the lathe. Drill a hole. TV-6 lathe Drill 3. Secure the workpiece in the lathe chuck and the tailstock cone. TV-6 lathe Workpiece 4. Turn the workpiece to the required size. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 5. Perform final cleaning of the part. Sanding device Sandpaper 24
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Manufacturing of the fuel tank No. Name Quantity scale Material 1 Fuel tank 3 1: 10 Tinplate Technological map No. 6 25
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Accessories 1. Cut out the workpiece of the required size. Ruler Scribbler Metal scissors Tin 2. Draw the contours of the part according to the template. Sketcher template 3.Cut out the pattern of the part. Remove burrs. Metal scissors File 4. Bend the workpiece along the fold lines. Pliers Workpiece 5. Solder the seams of the workpiece. Soldering iron Soldering acid Solder 26
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MANUFACTURE OF THE BACK ROLLER No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Support roller 10 1: 10 Birch Technological map No. 7 27
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Select a workpiece of the required dimensions Ruler Pencil Hacksaw Wood 2. Mark centers at the ends of the workpiece. Plane the edges. Carpentry workbench Planer Ruler Pencil 3. Mark and make a cut at the end of the workpiece. Mark the centers. Ruler Pencil Hacksaw Punch Hammer 4.Secure the workpiece in the lathe. Process until required diameter. Lathe STD-120 Chisels Vernier calipers 5. Grind tenons and chamfers. Clean surfaces. Cut off the part. Lathe STD-120 Chisels Emery cloth 28
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 6. Secure the workpiece in the chuck with reverse jaws. Lathe TV-6 Workpiece 7.Drill a hole. Lathe TV-6 Drill 8. Make grooves on the ends of the workpiece. TV-6 lathe Cutter Vernier calipers 9. Perform final cleaning of the part TV-6 lathe Emery cloth 29
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MANUFACTURING GUIDE WHEEL No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Guide wheel 2 1: 10 Steel Technological map No. 8 30
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Select a workpiece of the required size. Ruler Vernier calipers Hacksaw for metal Steel rod 2. Fix the workpiece in the lathe chuck and grind to the required diameter. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 3. Grind a tenon in the workpiece desired depth. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 4. Make a groove from the end of the workpiece. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 5.Drill a hole in the workpiece. Lathe TV-6 Drill Caliper 31
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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 6. Cut off the finished part. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 7. Make a groove at the end of the part. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier calipers 8. Mark and drill holes. Caliper Punch Hammer Drilling machine Drill Vise 32
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Safety precautions when working on a TV-6 screw-cutting lathe Before starting work: Put on work clothes, fasten your sleeves, prepare safety glasses. Firmly secure the cutter and the workpiece. Remove the cartridge key. Check the handles of the machine, move the cutter away from the workpiece. Turn on the machine and check its operation at idle speed. During operation: Smoothly move the cutter towards the workpiece. It is prohibited: - to measure the workpiece being processed; -remove chips, lubricate and clean the machine without turning it off; - move away from the working machine; -after turning off the machine, brake the chuck by hand; -transmit and receive objects through rotating parts of the machine; - blow off and sweep away the shavings by hand; Upon completion of work: Remove the support from the chuck and turn off the machine. Put the machine in order, workplace, tools, equipment. Place waste in a special box. 34
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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS WHEN WORKING ON A DRILLING MACHINE Dangers at work: 1. Eye injury from flying chips. 2. Injury to the hands due to poor fastening of the part. Before starting work: 1. Put on proper clothing. 2.Check the reliability of fastening of the belt drive protective casing and connection protective grounding with the machine body. 3.Check the operation of the machine at idle speed. 4. Securely secure the drill in the chuck. 5.Fix the part firmly on the machine table. 6. Wear safety glasses. During operation: 1. Feed the drill to the part smoothly, without effort or jerking. 2.Before drilling a metal workpiece, mark the centers of the holes. 3.When the drill comes out of metal, reduce the feed. 4.Do not slow down the chuck and drill with your hands. 5.Do not leave the machine without turning it off. Upon completion of work: 1. Remove chips from the machine using a brush and hook. 2.Do not blow away the shavings with your mouth or sweep them with your hands. 35
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SAFETY TECHNIQUES WHEN MANUAL PROCESSING OF METAL Dangers in work: 1. Injury from metal fragments. 2. Injury when working with a faulty tool. 3. Cuts with burrs. Before starting work: 1. Put on proper clothing. 2. Wear goggles when chopping metal. 3.Check the condition of the tools. 4.Check the condition of the bench vice. During operation: 1. Firmly secure the workpiece in a vice. 2.Do not check the quality of the sawn surface with your fingers. 3.Use the plumbing tool only for its intended purpose. 4. Hold the sheet metal workpiece being cut when cutting with scissors in a glove (mitten). After finishing work: 1. Clean the work area thoroughly (do not blow away shavings or sawdust or brush them away with your hands). Place waste in a special box. 2.Put the tools in their places. 3.Get yourself in order. 36
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RULES FOR SAFE WORK WHEN SOLDERING METALS 1. During work, use ventilation to remove dust and harmful vapors. 2.Use a working soldering iron with a dry handle and carefully insulated wires. 3.Handle hot soldering iron, melted solder and hot parts with care. 4.Install the soldering iron on a special stand. 5. Place a rubber mat under your feet. 6. Handle fluxes carefully, do not allow them to splash or get on your body. 7. Keep fluxes in special containers on stands. 8.After finishing work, wash your hands with soap and water. 37
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RULES FOR SAFE WORK WITH A MUFFLE FURNACE 1. Check that the protective grounding is securely attached to the furnace body. 2.Open and close the oven door only after disconnecting it from the power supply. 3.Do not place flammable objects on or near the stove. 4. Place the container with materials in and out of the oven using long-handled pliers. 5.Handle molten metal carefully. 6.When working with metal, wear a canvas apron. 7.Wear gloves and safety glasses. 8.After finishing work, turn off the oven. 38
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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS WHEN WORKING WITH ADHESIVES AND PAINTS When working with paint and varnish materials, adhesives, putties, the workplace must be equipped with ventilation, well lit, and free of dust. Observe following rules: - protect hands and clothing from contact with paints, enamels, glue - use a respirator - use rubber gloves - ensure proper ventilation - after finishing work, wash your hands thoroughly with soap 39
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Boys tend to do boyish things: fight with a tin army, direct planes to fly across the room and, of course, shoot from tanks. To create an entire tank division, it is not at all necessary to raid a children's store: just buy several types of cardboard and make it at home. We will tell you how to please your baby and how to make a tank out of cardboard with your own hands. You can completely entrust the process of creating a tank to a boy or get creative with him.
How to make a tank from ordinary cardboard with your own hands
If you haven't arrived yet cardboard, we advise you to do this immediately. Choose the material to suit your taste: cardboard is sold in separate white A4 sheets or multi-colored tablets, decorated in a thin book. In the first option, buy also gouache– the child will enjoy decorating the created with my own hands toy
When all the materials are ready and placed on the floor or table, start the creative process.
Start making the tank from caterpillars. To do this, cut two strips: the width of the strips is determined by eye, however, for a better appearance, you can measure a strip of 2-2.5 centimeters. Glue the edges of the strips: you will get two separate rings.
Prepare base of the craft: it can be thin plywood or the same sheet of cardboard. To ensure that the aesthetic appearance of the tank evokes enthusiastic exclamations, place it on green cardboard that imitates grass. Stretch the rings as far as possible. Check the length of both rings: it should be the same. Flatten them into an elongated oval shape. Glue them to the base parallel to each other.
Start making platforms. To do this, measure the distance between the glued tracks and make a platform as shown in the photo. Make a tower: Take the shape of the platform as a basis. The tower dimensions should be slightly smaller.
It's time for the most interesting thing - trunk. To make the trunk as similar as possible to the real one, follow this algorithm: cut the A4 sheet into two parts. Only one is needed to make the barrel. Selected piece of cardboard fold three times lengthwise. You will end up with four elements on one sheet. Adapt one of the sides of the cardboard for the “ears”: cut the tip of the tube along the fold lines by 1 cm. Bend them down.
Put the pieces together. Choose the location of the gun on the tank turret yourself. Attach the barrel to the tower with glue using pre-prepared “ears”.
The tank is ready! To make it more natural, paint it (if the tank is made of white cardboard) or glue ready-made star stickers. Particularly interesting will be a model painted in an army military style.
How to make a tank from corrugated cardboard
Making a tank from corrugated cardboard is as easy as making one from regular cardboard. However, painting with gouache is a little more difficult - smudges and unsightly white spots are possible. That's why We recommend purchasing colored cardboard, if for the craft you choose the option of making it from corrugated thick paper. Let's start short Master Class as a result of which you will see a stunningly simple, and at the same time beautiful toy for a child.
Buy flat from corrugated cardboard. Stripes with a width of 1 or more centimeters are available for sale. Take the smallest width - 1 centimeter. It is better if the cardboards are in contrasting colors: this will make the tank brighter. If ready-made strips are not available, cut their.
Roll up the large wheels for the track. They are necessary four pieces: two on each side. To make the wheel really big, glue two strips together. Using the same principle, make four small wheels: it will be enough for them the length of one strip.
Wrap the wheels tank with a strip of corrugated cardboard. It would be better if the cardboard was a different color.
For the tank platform, take sheet of cardboard and make folds along the edges. The sheet of cardboard should be twice the length of the tracks. Glue it in the initial part of the platform - caterpillars, then wrap them with the remaining length and glue the platform at the bottom.
Cut two rectangles along the length of the platform and glue them onto it, arranging the rectangles over the tracks. Roll up tank barrel from corrugated cardboard. On top part attach the platforms all details using glue.
After the completed manipulations, you will find wonderful toy, which, if used carefully, will serve your child faithfully for a long time, and maybe more than one.
Making toys with your own hands is great. It’s good when the whole family is involved in the creative process: mom, dad, children. Such educational gatherings have a beneficial effect on the child’s psyche and provide the right social guidance. Now that you know how to make a cardboard tank with your own hands, your little one will have a new toy in the car park, and you will have a great time enjoying the company of your family.
Hello to all glue lovers! Today we offer make a paper model legendary tank Soviet army during the Second World War - T-34. Do T-34 tank made of paper will not be more difficult than the previously published tank models: “”, “”.
The T-34 tank, thanks to the high combat and technical specifications, was adopted by the Red Army at the end of 1939. In the spring of 1940, as one of the tests, two prototypes of the T-34 tank were driven from Kharkov to Moscow and back. During the trip, the tank confirmed its high technical qualities. After this test, it was decided to produce the T-34 on the main large enterprises THE USSR.
Gluing a T-34 tank from paper
To create a paper model of a tank, you will need to print out diagrams of the tank parts, cut them out and glue them together.
- Any printer is suitable for printing circuits, because... The black and white parts of the tank can easily be painted.
- Use thin cardboard or photo paper to print large tank parts.
- For small details, you can use regular office paper.
- To create even bends, place a ruler on the bend line and draw along it reverse side scissors or a non-writing pen.
- To cut out the tank part, use scissors and a utility knife.
- It is advisable to cut and glue the parts sequentially, moving from one glued part to the next.
- If the part has an inner circle, then it should be cut out first, and then the part itself.
- To glue tank parts, use transparent acrylic glue“Moment” or any other analogue.
- Before gluing, you should paint over the ends of the part, this will improve appearance models.
- Follow the instructions when gluing the tank.
Paper diagrams of T-34 tank parts
Instructions for gluing the T-34 tank
Try cutting a tank like this. Your loved ones will surely like this craft by placing it in a visible place, for example, on a shelf. To make this craft you will need the following:
Sawing tools.
I use my desktop
First of all, you need to prepare your table on which you will work. There should be no unnecessary things on it and every tool should be at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop and has probably already thought about creating one. Making a table is not difficult, but choosing a place for it in the house is difficult. Perfect option- this is an insulated balcony on which you can do crafts at any time. I have already written about preparing the table in a separate article and tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire process of creating it. If you don’t know how to prepare your workplace, then read the following Article. After you have completed the process of creating a table, try to start choosing your future craft.
We choose quality material
The main material is plywood. The choice is always difficult. Each of us has probably encountered such a problem as delamination of plywood from the end part and asked the question, what causes this delamination? Well, of course, this is mainly due to low-quality plywood. If this is not the first time you have picked up a jigsaw, then you can select plywood from the remnants of a previous craft. If you are new to sawing and you don’t have plywood, then buy it at a hardware store. Choosing material for sawing is always difficult. You should always choose plywood carefully, often look at the defects of the wood (knots, cracks) and draw conclusions. The difficulty in choosing plywood lies in the fact that no matter how you guess at its defects and shelf life. For example, you bought plywood, cleaned it, translated the drawing and suddenly it began to delaminate. Of course, this has happened to almost everyone and it’s oh, how unpleasant. So it is better to pay attention when choosing and choose good plywood. I wrote a special Article in which all the principles of choosing plywood are described step by step.
Stripping plywood
We clean our plywood with sandpaper. As you already know, “Medium-grained” and “Fine-grained” sandpaper is used for cleaning plywood during cutting. You've probably seen sandpaper in hardware stores, and that's what we'll need. In your work you will need “Coarse-grained”, “Medium-grained” and “Fine-grained” sandpaper. Each of them has its own property, but a completely different coating, by which it is classified. “Coarse-grained” sandpaper is used for processing rough plywood, i.e. which has many defects, chips, and cracks.
“Medium-grained” sandpaper is used for processing plywood after “Coarse” sandpaper and has a slight coating. “Fine-grained” or otherwise “Nulevka”. This sandpaper serves as the final process for stripping plywood. It gives the plywood smoothness, and therefore the plywood will be pleasant to the touch. Sand the prepared plywood in stages, starting with medium-grain sandpaper and ending with fine sandpaper. Sanding should be done along the layers, not across. A well-polished surface should be flat, completely smooth, glossy in the light and silky to the touch. How best to prepare plywood for sawing and which sandpaper is best to choose Read here. After stripping, check the plywood for burrs and small irregularities. If there are no visible defects, then you can proceed to the process of translating the drawing.
Translation of the drawing
For me, drawing translation has always been the main process in my work. I will tell you a couple of rules, as well as tips for high-quality translation of a drawing. Many people transfer the drawing onto plywood not only using a pencil and copying, but also using “Black Tape”, glue the drawing to the plywood, then wash off the drawing with water and the markings of the drawing remain on the plywood. In general, there are many ways, but I will tell you about the most common method. To transfer the drawing onto prepared plywood, you must use a copy, a ruler, a sharp pencil and a non-writing pen. Fasten the drawing in plywood using buttons or simply hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing fits the dimensions. Arrange the clock drawing so that you can use a sheet of plywood as economically as possible. Translate the drawing using a non-writing pen and ruler. There is no need to rush, because your future craft depends on the drawing.
Drilling holes in the parts
As you have already noticed, the parts contain parts of the grooves that need to be cut out from the inside. To cut out such parts, you need to drill holes in them with help hand drill or, the old fashioned way, make holes with an awl. By the way, the diameter of the hole must be at least 1 mm, otherwise you can damage the elements of the drawing, which, alas, are sometimes difficult to restore. To avoid damaging your work table when drilling holes, you must place a board under the workpiece so as not to damage the work table. It is always difficult to drill holes alone, so ask a friend to help you in your task.
Sawing parts
There are many rules for cutting, but you need to stick to the most common ones. First of all, you need to cut out the internal parts, only then according to the external pattern. There is no need to rush when cutting. The main thing is to always keep the jigsaw straight at a 90-degree angle when cutting. Cut out the parts along the lines you precisely marked. The movements of the jigsaw should always be smooth up and down. Also, do not forget to monitor your posture. Try to avoid bevels and unevenness. If you go off the line while cutting, don't worry. Such bevels and irregularities can be removed using flat files or “coarse-grained” sandpaper.
Rest
When sawing, we often get tired. Fingers and eyes, which are always tense, often get tired. When working, of course, everyone gets tired. In order to reduce the load, you need to do a couple of exercises. You can view the exercises here. Do the exercises several times during work.
Cleaning Parts
You should always clean the parts of a future craft carefully. At the very beginning of the work, you already cleaned the plywood sandpaper. Now you have to do a small part of stripping the plywood. Using medium-grain sandpaper, sand the edges of the parts and the back of the plywood. “Fine-grained” sandpaper is considered the final stage of cleaning parts. It is better to clean with fine sandpaper front part details. When processing plywood, take your time. You can also use a rounded file, with which it is convenient to clean inner part holes. Try to ensure that the parts come out without burrs or irregularities.
Assembly of parts
Assembling the parts of our craft is not so difficult here. In order to implement correct assembly details You need to read the following article, which describes in detail all the details of the assembly. After the parts are assembled into one common craft without any problems, then start gluing them.
Gluing the parts
The shelf parts must be glued using PVA or titan glue. You don't need to pour a lot of glue. It is better to tie the assembled craft with glue with a strong thread, tighten it and lay it out to dry. The craft glues together in about 10-15 minutes.
Burning out crafts
To decorate our craft with a pattern (for example, along the edges of the craft), you will need an electric burner. It can be very difficult to burn a pattern beautifully. To burn patterns, you must first draw the pattern with a pencil. You can read how to work with an electric burner and add patterns to a shelf here.
Varnishing crafts
If desired, you can transform our craft by covering it with Wood Varnish, preferably colorless. Read how best to varnish a craft. Try to choose a quality varnish. Varnishing is carried out using a special brush “For glue”. Take your time. Try not to leave visible marks or scratches on the craft.