How to install plastic slopes with your own hands. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic slopes

Window opening after installation plastic windows looks unpresentable. Pieces of plaster and polyurethane foam stick out, and the material of the walls is visible in places. To close all this, various methods are used. The most affordable and practical is the use plastic slopes. It is better to equip them with sandwich panels, when foamed polypropylene is laid between two layers of plastic. They are durable, dense, made of high quality material.

How to make slopes on plastic windows? In total, there are two key methods: with and without the use of a starting profile. Both of these methods are effective and give good results.

Without starting profile

Apply this method installations window slopes possible when there is too much short distance from the window frame to the wall. Installation with a starting profile in this case is either very complicated or completely impossible. The arrangement of slopes of plastic windows begins with preparing the opening. In this case, the foam fragments are cut off stationery knife. It doesn't take too much effort to remove it.

The polyurethane foam should not be cut, it should be removed evenly. In this case, it will cope with its function of fixing the frame. It will also insulate it, preventing drafts from the street. It is also necessary to remove pieces of plaster that interfere with work and protrude, giving the window opening an unattractive appearance. appearance. If they hold up well, you can leave them alone. The foam will slide off less.

Along the perimeter of the window, a thin 10 by 40 mm strip is nailed with the wide side to the slope. Usually it is nailed as is, but it can be leveled by placing thin planks and pieces of plywood in the necessary places. Following this, the foam is cut around the perimeter of the frame so that the sandwich panels fit here. It should go 1 cm.

The foam must be cut carefully so that the plastic does not get damaged. After this, they begin processing the plastic panels. You can do the standard thing by making a stencil after all the necessary measurements. To do this, take a sheet of paper. It should be larger in size than the window slope. They apply it to it, crimp it, remove the excess. The paper is cut along the curved edges, tried on, and adjustments are made as necessary. The top part of the frame is the easiest place to start.

After forming the paper stencil, outline it on the plastic. Approximately 1 cm will go into the foam groove. It is necessary to cut with a small margin, since cutting will be easier than covering it up later. Using a hacksaw, they try on the plastic and make adjustments so that it stands up straight, without bending. Align so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edges turn out to be almost even; where necessary, some finishing is done with a file.

After removing the strip of material along the outer edge, which will be nailed to the plank, drill a hole according to the thickness of the nails, retreating 6 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to secure the plastic without causing damage to it. The slope is then put back into place. Take a balloon with polyurethane foam and little by little fill the entire gap with foam. We must try to get as deep as possible, but a large consumption of material is undesirable. Foam can spill and damage the plastic.

Working with polyurethane foam

If there is smooth plastic, the foam provides good adhesion to it. If you have to treat the surface directed towards the wall, it is necessary to use a primer or sand it for improved adhesion. Another nuance is that moisture is necessary for optimal polymerization of the foam. That is why before installing the plastic, the slope must be sprayed with water from a spray bottle. There should be no dust on the wall. It is cleaned with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the solution is loose, treat the opening with a penetrating primer in advance. It carries the function of binding concrete particles together.

Subsequently, the panel rises. Nails are inserted into the hole and the outer edge is secured in the strip. The internal surfaces are fixed, resting against the window frame.

The work is carried out according to the same algorithm:

cut out a paper template and try it on;
transfers it to plastic, cutting out the side of the plastic;
process the edges sandpaper so that there is a minimum of space between the upper slope and the panel.

Next steps include:

Working on the vertical parts of slopes requires a slightly different approach. Foam is applied here before parts are installed. The panel located along the far edge is processed if it is ready for installation. She is brought under the frame. The foam strip should be applied in a thin stream, stepping back slightly from the edge. After inserting the plastic part, the cut groove is filled with the rest of the foam gap. Before doing this, be sure to wet the wall. After this, the slope is pressed, leveled and secured in the plank with nails.

To prevent the foam from moving the edges of the slope during polymerization, in the lower and upper parts glued masking tape joints. But even if all manipulations are performed perfectly small gaps will remain. They are covered with acrylic. It is sold in tubes, similar to packaging with polyurethane foam. The product is applied in the same way, through a mounting gun.

Further actions

All excess gaps must be filled and leveled. Excess acrylic must be removed with a damp cloth or sponge. This must be done carefully until the surface is completely clean. The manipulation is carried out on small areas. The acrylic should not be allowed to harden, otherwise there will be problems with its removal. It is more convenient to seal cracks immediately. The horizontal slope panel is processed first. After this there are joints, then they move downwards. First close the gaps on one side, then on the opposite. Lastly, it is carried out processing joints with window sills.

It takes 12 to 24 hours to dry, depending on the characteristics of the sealant. If the gaps are large, the acrylic may be pulled into the seam. All these areas must be worked out again using the same method. After the second layer has dried, if there are unevenness and roughness, you can smooth out these defects with fine-grained sandpaper, folding it in half. It is recommended to carefully level the materials while they are gray, otherwise the plastic may suffer mechanical damage.

The slopes can be considered installed. They should be puttied when the final polymerization of the foam occurs. Their surface should be flat relative to the plane of the walls. After this, the protective blue film is removed.

Panels are considered the most unreliable material for installing plastic slopes. Even wall ones are easily pressed through, and front layer they are imperfect. It is enough to shine light on them, and the jumpers will be immediately visible. IN plastic window sills This is not observed in sandwich panels.

Installation with starting profile

To install slopes on plastic windows with your own hands, first prepare the window opening. How it's done:

cut off the mounting foam;
remove all elements that are not secured well enough;
clean the surface from dust;
work area treated with a primer for improved adhesion.

A wooden block is fixed around the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame. Select the thickness depending on the distance. It should almost fit into the frame. Adjust one side of the block with a plane and make a slight tilt. This creates an angle, which is comparable to the slope installation angle. You can saw it off, but it is quite difficult to do such work with precision. And in terms of labor costs, this is quite problematic, unless it is available a circular saw with adjustable angle.

After processing, the block is screwed around the perimeter of the opening onto the walls. The method of fastening depends on what material it is made of. If the wall is brick, you can place the block on the screws. For concrete it is necessary to install dowels. You can purchase a starter profile in the store. It is installed with the long side facing the block and secured. Fixation with staples construction stapler in this case it is more convenient. If you don't have such a device nearby, you can use flat-head screws or small nails.

Setting up a starting profile

When choosing a starting profile, you need to take tight modifications. They cost more, but you will need less of them, only 3 m per window. The dense profile holds the plastic well. The soft product bends and turns out to be ugly in appearance. One more important point is the need to press the profile tightly to the frame. Due to this, there will be no gaps or they will be minimal. In the upper part, when joining the horizontal and vertical profiles, you need to be especially careful. They must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. If there are small cracks, they must be sealed with acrylic.

It is most convenient to start working on this technology from the sidewalls. The starting profile is not fixed, after which the panel is inserted into it. But it is better if it is equipped with a thick layer of plastic and made of dense and expensive modifications. If you take cheap ceiling models, the front wall will turn out thin. In bright light you will be able to see the jumpers. Among other things, such plastic can be easily pressed even with a finger.

The plastic panel must be wider than the slope. If the resulting area is not enough, two products are used for joining. But in this case, in the joint area it will be necessary to additionally equip a vertical bar on which the first strip is fixed. The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Supporting it with your hand, you need to mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut off the products along the marked line.

The panel is reinstalled, at the same time they move it a little further from the wall and fill it with polyurethane foam, trying to avoid gaps, but also not allowing excess to form. Start from the far bottom corner. Near the nailed plank they pass from bottom to top. Once they reach the top, the foam expands slightly at the bottom.

Draw a line with polyurethane foam again, but try to stick to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam consumption, since the panel is placed under a slope. Having reached the middle, a strip of foam is laid out on the remaining surfaces and the panel is pressed as it should stand in the final version. Align and check. Secure it to the wall with masking tape. Part 2 is installed in the same way, and then the top part. You can cut it out in a similar way by cutting out a paper template and sanding the edges until they match perfectly.

Work after installation of parts

Once all parts of the slope have been installed and secured with masking tape, the object is left for complete polymerization. In the future, to avoid puttying the gaps between the wall and the slope, glue plastic corner for liquid nails. The main task is to ensure a flat plane in the corners. A thin strip of glue is applied to both shelves of the corner and pressed. Run your hand along and hold for several minutes. Parts are installed around the entire perimeter. Before the glue dries, glue the corner shelves with masking tape and leave.

After a day, the tape is removed. You can consider the plastic slopes ready. If cracks are found anywhere, they must be covered with acrylic, as described earlier. Silicone is not recommended. In the light it will turn yellow. After a few years, the windows will not look very solid. The best option would be white acrylic sealant. It is ideal for masking defects.

After replacing and installing double-glazed windows, window openings need finishing. And if only a specialist is required to install the window, then perform Finishing work everyone can. This process has simple technology, so installing plastic slopes with your own hands is not at all difficult. Practical, inexpensive, easy-to-use plastic panels can be installed in just 3-4 hours, completely changing the appearance of the window opening.

To install slopes efficiently, you should thoroughly clean the surfaces of the opening and prepare everything necessary tools and materials. Plastic panels must have a thickness of at least 8 mm, and their length and width must correspond to the parameters of the opening. Plastic that is too thin will not last long, and it can easily be damaged during installation.

In addition to the panels, you will need:

You can start finishing no earlier than 36 hours after installing the double-glazed window. During this time, the mounting foam on which the frame is installed has time to completely harden, and even accidentally touching the structure, it will not be possible to move it.

Now you need to clean and prepare the walls of the opening by performing the following operations:

Production and installation of plastic slopes

When the walls of the opening are dry, stick around the perimeter vapor barrier film. At the joints, film pieces are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and glued along the seam. The edges of the film should not protrude beyond the window frame. After this, they begin to make slopes.

Step 1. Installation of the starting profile

The starting profile is screwed onto the outer edge of the window frame using short self-tapping screws. In the corners, when connecting a horizontal strip with a vertical one, the profile is fastened so that its inner walls fit tightly to each other, without gaps or cracks.

Step 2. Attaching wooden slats

Fastening wooden slats

Take slats 15 mm thick and 40 mm wide, cut them to the width and height of the outer edge of the opening. Using driven dowels, the slats are attached along the perimeter with their flat side to the surface so that their edges do not extend beyond the plane of the wall. Both the top and side slats must be aligned horizontally and vertically using a level. If the walls of the opening are not smooth enough, thin wedges are placed under the slats.

Step 3. Cutting the slopes

The length and width of the opening walls, as well as the bevel angle on each side, are measured very accurately. Cut lines are marked on the panel and slope blanks are cut out using a jigsaw or a sharp knife.

By the way, you can read about plastering slopes with your own hands on our website.

The resulting parts are applied to the walls and to the top of the opening, their location and tightness in the corners are checked.

Step 4. Installation of slopes

The F-shaped profile is cut to the size of the outer perimeter of the opening and the ends are filed at an angle of 45 degrees. A section of the profile is applied to the rail so that it is completely covered with plastic, but does not overlap the groove for attaching the slope. Secure the profile to the rail with stapler staples. The remaining sections are mounted in the same way.

The upper slope blank is placed in the upper starting profile, having previously covered it with sealant. Holding the slope suspended, fill the gap between the panel and the wall with insulation. The insulation layer should not be too thick or have voids. The outer edge of the slope is inserted into the groove of the profile and pressed lightly to level the panel.

Next, install the side slopes, carefully distributing the thermal insulation material. If the external walls are insulated, there is no need to additionally insulate the slopes. In this case, the voids between the panels and the base of the slopes are filled with polyurethane foam. It is very important not to overdo it here, since excess foam can squeeze out the panels or bend them in an arc. It is advisable to use foam with a low expansion coefficient; apply it in small portions, evenly distributing along the height of the gap.

Step 5. Finishing

The areas where the panels meet each other and the window sill must be thoroughly degreased. Next, the seams and cracks are filled with acrylic sealant. With a clean rag soaked in acetone, wipe away traces of glue and sealant on the panels and profile, and plaster the area of the opening under the window sill.

Plastic slopes are also used to decorate the doorway. The process of installing them is slightly different from installing window slopes. Preparing the surface of the opening is done in exactly the same way: frozen foam around door frame cut with a knife, the walls are cleaned of wallpaper, paint or plaster, and all cracks are carefully sealed with mortar. If you plan to attach the slopes to the surface itself, it should be leveled with cement-sand mortar. If used frame technology, it is enough to seal the cracks and deep recesses.

To work you will need:

Step 1. Frame installation

Measure the width of the opening walls from the door frame to the corner line. The slats are cut into pieces according to measurements. On the side walls, horizontal lines are marked with a pencil at a distance of 50-60 cm. Using the markings, holes are drilled for dowels and the slats are secured. If the surface is uneven, use mounting wedges or thin bars that are placed under the slats. 3 transverse bars are attached to the ceiling - 2 in the corners and one in the middle.

Step 2. Cutting the panels

On the panel, mark cutting lines with a pencil, forming a slope. The angle of inclination is measured especially carefully, because mismatched joints cannot always be repaired unnoticed. All fragments should be 10-12 cm wider than the sheathed surface in order to cover the edges of the corners. It is necessary to cut three blanks - 2 side and one for the ceiling. After this, the blanks are placed against the walls of the opening and the correct cutting is checked.

Step 3. Installation of slopes

Take the first slope and apply it to the wall of the doorway. Having aligned the joints at the corners, back side the blanks mark the fold line with a pencil. Using a sharp knife, make a vertical slit in the cavity of the panel, leaving the front side intact. Apply the slope to the surface again, level it and screw it to the frame with small self-tapping screws.

When the main part of the slope is secured, screw the protruding edge. To do this, determine the border of the panel, step 2 cm away from it towards the opening and draw a vertical line. According to this marking, 6-7 holes are drilled, wooden wedges are hammered into them, and then the edge of the slope is pressed against the wall and screwed, aligning the screws to the level of the wedges. Instead of wedges, you can use dense wooden plugs.

The second side slope is installed, after which the ceiling is sheathed with a panel. The upper edge of this workpiece should overlap the ends of the side projections; After installation is completed, the material is carefully cut at an angle and the joints are glued. Internal seams coat with sealant, remove excess with a clean rag, if desired, cover the heads of the screws to match the color of the slopes.

Video - Installation of a slope on a door

Frameless finishing method

If the walls of the opening are perfectly smooth and even, you can simply glue the slopes:

To increase adhesion, the surface is coated with a primer deep penetration and dried;
plastic panels are cut according to measurements so that the edge of the slope falls exactly on the corner of the wall;
after this, glue is applied around the perimeter of the workpiece and several strokes in the center, and then pressed to the surface;
until the glue has hardened, align the corners and edges;
glue the side slopes, then close the lintel. The side cuts of the top panel should overlap the edges of the slopes by 2-3 mm.

Finally, the vertical seams are sealed, and decorative trims are attached along the outer perimeter of the opening to match the color of the door and slopes.

Video - Do-it-yourself plastic slopes

Video - How to make slopes on plastic windows

It often happens that after installing windows, the opening does not look the best in the best possible way and needs renovation. AND the best option To get rid of protruding foam, pieces of plaster and other defects, you will install slopes on plastic windows yourself. Properly designed slopes will give the windows a complete aesthetic appearance.

Reasons for installation

Plastic windows can be considered correctly installed only if the slopes are installed correctly and in compliance with the rules. They carry a certain part of the thermal insulation load, thus preventing fogging assembly seams. If improperly finished or due to temperature changes, the structure may collapse building materials. Therefore, it is important to install slopes in compliance with technology.

Plaster finishing

This option is now considered quite outdated because it has more disadvantages than advantages. But you can still consider this possibility.

There are two main advantages of this type of finishing:

Low installation cost.
If the windows were installed close to the walls, then this is the only possible option.

Unfortunately, there are many more disadvantages in this method, so you should consider Negative consequences its application.

Among the disadvantages are the following:

If, after weighing all the pros and cons, you come to the conclusion that you can’t do without plaster, feel free to get down to business.

Using drywall

This material is very popular in Lately. A lot of structures are made from it, including slopes for walls. When installing it, you may encounter difficulties, but they are much less than when finishing with plaster.

The undeniable advantages of using this material are:

But, like any other material, drywall also has its disadvantages:

During installation it is used a large number of tools and materials.
He is very sensitive to high humidity, so it is better not to use it in an aggressive environment.
Insulation is required.

Now you can proceed directly to installing the slopes. Tools and materials required for installation:

Now that the necessary tools are nearby, you can get to work. First, we attach wooden blocks around the entire perimeter of the window, flush with the wall. The bars are fastened with dowels. Then, using a utility knife, a sheet of foam and drywall is cut. The insulation is laid between the bars and pressed using the finished slope segment. Drywall is screwed into wooden blocks in increments of approximately 20 cm around the perimeter.

After all the slopes are fixed, we proceed to puttying. The putty mixture is applied to the sheet thin layer and covers irregularities and screw heads.

The next stage is painting. Can be painted in the usual way, the task is not to dirty the windows. Once the paint has dried, you can begin decorating the corners. To do this, plastic corners are cut to the required length and attached to the surface with glue.

Plastic materials

Plastic slopes have huge advantages compared to plaster:

When replacing old windows, the window opening can be severely damaged, so it is important to fill the resulting voids. In some cases, the cracks are not visible, but it still comes through from the window. This indicates that the seams have depressurized after installation work.

Thermal insulation methods

If you install slopes according to all the rules, then they need to be properly insulated. Thermal insulation is achieved simply: you need to install insulation under a layer of plastic.

Insulation can be done in 2 ways:

Insulate the space with polystyrene foam or mineral wool with inside window.
Fill the cracks at the junction of the window opening and the PVC frame with foam.

Gap within 50 mm at smooth surface It is advisable to insulate with Izover, sheet foam or polystyrene foam. If the wall is uneven, it is better to use mineral wool. From the outside, the gaps can be filled with foam.

Well insulated multilayer walls themselves perfectly protect the window opening from external factors, therefore it is not necessary to insulate the slopes; it is enough to apply polyurethane foam along all the gaps from the outside.

Installation of plastic slopes

Now let's look at how to make slopes on windows out of plastic. Required tools:

Sheet plastic 8 mm, enough for 6 meters.
The starting strip is U-shaped and F-shaped.
Hammer or drill.
Building level.
Metal scissors.
Square.
Pencil.
Sealant and screws.

As in the case of drywall, you need to install plastic slopes with your own hands from blocks and foam plastic. Then window frame We attach the starting profile with glue; you can fix the profile to the block with construction staples for greater reliability.

The next step is to attach the F-profile to the block that runs along the wall.

Now comes the most difficult stage - installing the panels. Since the profiles that were previously fixed are made of plastic, they bend easily, this will help to bring them into the F-profile. But before that, you need to insert one edge of the slope into the starting element and push it until it stops.

Then you need gently press the inner edges F - profile and bring the panel inside. If the work is done correctly, the profile should return to its original state. starting position and securely fix the panel.

Installation of external slopes

There are several options for installing and preparing external slopes. The most common methods for installing slopes:

Made from plasterboard covered with plastic.
Made from sandwich panels.
Made from foam plastic.

Sandwich panels or plastic panels are cut using a power saw or metal scissors. Then the starting profile is mounted with dowels into the window opening during window installation. Next, the slopes are attached to this base. For installation work, galvanized brackets and mounting tape are used. The brackets are attached using self-tapping screws, and on their base, the slopes are firmly pressed to the window sill. The corners are lubricated with sealant.

Plasterboard slopes with PVC cladding sheets are mounted " liquid nails" It is necessary to ensure that no traces of deformation remain on the surface of the plastic.

One of the options - this is the use of foam PVC. By cutting, it can be bent to the required shape. Otherwise, PVC has general technology installation with sandwich panels.

After installing plastic windows, the window opening does not look the best: foam, pieces of plaster stick out, and the wall material is visible in places. All this “beauty” is closing different ways, the most practical, fast and inexpensive of which are plastic slopes. It is better to make them from sandwich panels (two layers of plastic with polypropylene foam between them). They are dense, durable, made of good material.

There are two main methods for installing plastic slopes: with and without a starting profile. Both are given with step by step instructions and photo. Decide for yourself how to attach slopes to plastic windows. Both methods give good results.

Photo report 1: installation of slopes from sandwich panels without starting profiles

This method is suitable when the window is installed so that the distance from the window frame to the opening wall is too small. In this case, installation with a starting profile (see below) is either very difficult or - usually from the hinge side - completely impossible.

After installing the plastic window, the following picture was observed.

The installation of slopes for plastic windows begins with preparing the opening: we cut off the remaining foam with a stationery knife. It is easy to cut, just don’t overdo it, cut it flush and don’t cut it out - the foam both holds and insulates the frame. Pieces of plaster that interfere and protrude are also removed. If they hold up well and do not protrude beyond the plane of the future slope, you can leave them - the foam will slide less.

Then, around the perimeter of the window we nail (we place it on dowels if the wall is concrete) a thin strip - 10 * 40 mm - with the wide side facing the slope.

Usually they don’t level it, they nail it as is, but if you want, you can make it level by placing pieces of plywood, thin boards, etc. in the right places.

Now you need to cut the plastic panels correctly. You can do it in a standard way: using measurements, you can make a stencil. It seems easier with a stencil. Take a sheet of paper larger than your window (I had old wallpaper). Apply to the slope, crimp, bending the excess. Cut along the curved lines, try on, adjust as necessary.

It is more convenient to start from the upper part of the opening. Having done paper stencil, we outline it on plastic. Considering that about 1 cm will go into the foam groove, add this centimeter along the edge that will be inserted there. We cut it out with a small margin - it’s easier to cut it off than to cover it up later.

We cut it with a hacksaw and a metal blade, try it on, adjust it so that the plastic stands up straight, without bending. We level it so that the panel is flush with the plaster. The edge turns out to be almost even; where necessary, we trim it with a file.

Having removed the tried-on and adjusted strip, along the outer edge that will be nailed to the plank, we drill holes according to the thickness of the nails, retreating about 0.5 cm from the edge. This will make it easier to attach and will not damage the plastic.

We put it in place again, take a balloon with mounting foam and short “sprays” to fill the gap with foam. We try to get as deep as possible, but don’t pour too much: when it swells, it can distort the plastic.

There are several points to consider when working with polyurethane foam. If the plastic is smooth, the foam does not have a very good grip on it. To improve it, either treat the surface that faces the wall with sandpaper, and/or prime it with something to improve adhesion. The second nuance: for normal polymerization of the foam, moisture is needed. Therefore, before installing the plastic, the slope is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Naturally, there should be no dust on the wall - it should be swept away with a brush or removed with a vacuum cleaner. If the plaster or mortar is loose, the opening is pre-treated with a penetrating primer, which will bind the concrete particles together.

Then we lift the panel, pressing down the foam, insert the nails into the holes and fasten the outer edge to the bar. The inner one rests against the window frame.

Using the same technology - cut out a paper template, try it on, transfer it to plastic - cut out a plastic side. Here you need to be especially precise so that the gap between the slope panel and the window sill (upper slope) is minimal. To do this, the edge will have to be sanded. To make the edge smoother, it is easier to process it with sandpaper attached to a smooth block, a file or whetstone(half a circle, as in the photo).

We adjust it until it matches perfectly (as best as possible) at the top and bottom, and install it in place, driving one edge into the groove near the window. When the result is satisfactory, we level the outer vertical edge to the same level as the wall plaster. You can do this with a stationery knife on the spot, or you can draw a line on the panel (with a pencil, a thin marker, scratch it with something sharp) and then modify it with whatever is convenient.

Having removed it, we also drill holes for nails along the outer edge. We install the panel in place, take foam, and fill the gap from bottom to top. Too much foam is not good here either, as it can bend the plastic. Therefore, we fill it in short portions, trying to fill it as deeply as possible.

On the vertical parts of the slopes, you can do it differently: apply foam to the panel ready for installation along the far edge, which goes under the frame, before installation. The strip is made continuous or applied as a small snake. Only you need to do this not from the very edge, but stepping back a little. Then the plastic part is inserted into the cut-out groove, positioned as needed, and the rest of the gap is filled with foam (do not forget to wet the wall before installation). Once filled, press, level, and secure with nails into the bar.

To prevent the foam from moving the edges of the slope during the polymerization process, tape the joint at the top and bottom with masking tape. No matter how hard you try to adjust the plastic evenly, gaps, albeit small ones, remain. They can be covered with acrylic. It is sold in foam-type tubes and placed in the same mounting gun.

Squeeze the strip into the crack, rub it, level it, remove the excess with a damp cloth. soft cloth or a sponge. This operation needs to be done in small areas and wiped carefully - completely clean. As long as the acrylic has not hardened, it cleans up well. Then - with great difficulty. It is more convenient to start sealing cracks from the top - immediately - the horizontal panel of the slope, then the joints, then move down first along one side, then along the other. The last to be sealed are the joints with the window sill.

After drying - 12-24 hours, depending on the sealant (written on the tube), the acrylic may be drawn into the seam - this is if the cracks are large. Go through all these places a second time using the same method. After the second layer has dried, if there are any roughness or unevenness, they can be smoothed out with fine-grain sandpaper, folded in half. In general, it is better to carefully level it while it is still wet, otherwise you may scratch the plastic.

That's it, the plastic slopes are installed. After the final polymerization of the foam, the bevels must be puttied, leveling with the surface of the walls. After this, you can remove the protective blue film. As a result, the window will look something like this.

When installing these plastic slopes, sandwich panels were used. These are two layers of plastic, between which there is a layer of foamed propylene foam. Using the same technology, you can make a window frame from inexpensive plastic window sills or wall white PVC panels. The most unreliable material is panels: even wall panels are pressed through quite easily, to same thing If the front layer of plastic is thin (cheap), then the jumpers are visible in the light. This is not the case with sandwich panels and plastic window sills. And it takes a lot of effort to push through, and there are no jumpers even for clearance.

Photo report 2: installing plastic slopes with a starting profile

The installation of plastic slopes using this technology begins with the preparation of the window opening. We cut off the foam evenly, remove everything that does not adhere well, clean off the dust, and if necessary, go over the opening with a primer that improves adhesion.

Along the perimeter of the opening, but already near the frame, fasten wooden block. Choose the thickness depending on the distance: it should almost fit the frame. One side of the block must be worked with a plane, making an inclination. The angle of inclination of this face equal to angle slope installation. You can saw it off, but it’s more difficult to make it straight unless you have a circular saw with an adjustable angle.

We screw the treated block to the walls around the perimeter of the opening. The mounting method depends on the wall material. If the wall is brick, you can try using self-tapping screws; in a concrete wall, you need to install dowels.

You buy a starting profile in the store, install it with the long side to the block, and fasten it. It is more convenient and faster to fix it to the bar with staples from a construction stapler; if you don’t have one, you can use small nails or self-tapping screws with flat heads.

When choosing a starting profile, choose a dense one. It’s more expensive, but you only need three meters per window, maybe a little more. A dense profile will hold the plastic well, a soft one will bend and the appearance will be ugly. Another point - when installing the profile, press it as tightly as possible to the frame so that there are either no gaps at all or they are minimal.

At the top, when joining vertical and horizontal profiles, you need to be especially careful and cut them exactly at an angle of 45°. If there are small gaps, they can be sealed with acrylic.

Using this technology, it is more convenient to start installing reservoir slopes from the sidewalls. Insert the panel into the fixed starting profile. It is also better to take them from expensive and dense ones, with a thick layer of plastic. If you install cheap ones (ceiling), then the front wall is thin, and in bright light the jumpers will be visible. In addition, such plastic can be pressed even with your finger.

Width plastic panel there should be more than a slope. If the width of one is not enough, two are joined. But then at the junction you will need an additional vertical strip to which the first strip will be attached.

The panel inserted into the profile is usually longer than the opening. Holding it with your hand, mark the line of the opening. After removing, cut along the marked line.

We install the panel again, move it a little away from the wall and fill it with foam, trying to fill it without gaps, but without excess. To make this happen, we start from the far bottom corner - draw from bottom to top near the nailed bar. By the time we reached the top, the foam below had expanded a little. Draw a line with foam again, but closer to the edge. The closer to the outer edge, the less foam is required - after all, the panel is installed under a slope, so make the paths thinner. Having reached the middle, make a snake on the rest of the surface and press the panel the way it should stand. Align and check. Secure to the wall with masking tape. The second part and then the upper part are installed in the same way. It can also be cut out using a paper template, and the edges can be adjusted to a perfect (or almost) match using sandpaper.

Having installed all parts of the slope and secured with masking tape, leave until complete polymerization. Then, in order not to putty the gaps between the slope and the wall, a white plastic corner is glued onto liquid nails. The main task is to cut exactly in the corners. It is easy to glue: apply a thin strip of glue to both shelves of the corner, press it, moving your hand along it, hold it for a couple of minutes. This is how they are installed around the entire perimeter, then, before the glue dries, they are also glued with masking tape and left.

After a day, we remove the tape, the plastic slopes are ready.

If there are gaps somewhere, they are sealed with acrylic, as described above. Don't use silicone. In the light it quickly turns yellow. In a year or two your windows will look terrible. Look for white acrylic sealant and mask it with it.

Video

For an option for installing slopes with a starting profile screwed to the window frame, see this video.

Video version of installing plastic slopes without a starting profile.

And another way in this video. Here pay attention to the finishing of the panel joints. They were made using a special profile. Could be so.