What tools are needed for siding. Do-it-yourself siding installation: stages of work and detailed instructions

At 4.6.2014, 8:14

I have been installing siding for several years, but I have never encountered the problem of making holes in the lock of the siding strip. If, of course, you worry about the effect of compression (stretching) of the strip, then you can simply drill a hole larger in diameter than self-tapping screws with a press washer, namely > 4.2 mm after 5-10 cm.

It’s strange to hear this from a siding installer. Thermal expansion-contraction is a very critical parameter for siding - it MUST move in the fastener in the longitudinal direction, otherwise it will “go in waves.”

It’s strange to hear this from a siding installer. Thermal expansion-contraction is a very critical parameter for siding - it MUST move in the fastener in the longitudinal direction, otherwise it will “go in waves.”

So no one argues about expansion (compression), it’s just strange that you need to make the holes yourself, usually this is done at the factory, and not at home. This is the same thing, if you need a window molding and it can be bent with a hammer on a workbench, and not on a sheet bending machine, the result handicraft obvious.

It seems to me that you didn’t read the instructions for siding holes with holes, there is also a special punch, and this one is needed to make notches in order to snap into the finishing strip where it will be cut, but there are no standard notches, they need to be made.

It seems to me that you didn’t read the instructions for siding holes with holes, there is also a special punch, and this one is needed to make notches in order to snap into the finishing strip where it will be cut, but there are no standard notches, they need to be made.

That's right, the finishing strip is cut off, but usually it is adjacent to the hem or lining, in this case you need to install an internal corner or j-trim, and so that it does not fall down, pour liquid plastic or glue into the bottom lock of the last strip and then after winter it won't fall. There is also an option with a finishing strip for siding, not to be confused with a finishing strip for windshield or near-window strips, insert a trimmed strip into it and that’s it, but not all brands of siding have it.

On the topic, from the profile site:

I make the hooks with an ordinary weaving nail - you place the nail with the side of the head on the siding, which lies on a piece of wood, and with a light blow of a hammer you bend the protrusion, it is advisable to do this at a temperature of 20 degrees, because if the temperature is lower, then the siding is not so flexible.

Why can’t you use a grinder to make 3-4 cm cuts along the self-tapping screw and then they hide in the finishing strip

What are you doing?, you can’t!!! It will go like a wave, twist and shrivel.
Buy normal material, and don’t fill your brain with unnecessary information.
Believe me, nothing comes in waves.

I make the hooks with an ordinary weaving nail - you place the nail with the side of the head on the siding, which lies on a piece of wood, and with a light blow of a hammer you bend the protrusion, it is advisable to do this at a temperature of 20 degrees, because if the temperature is lower, then the siding is not so flexible.

Maybe one of the specialists can tell me how to make gables... I’m not interested in making scaffolding...

I just got to the top, I'll have to try it..
Maybe one of the specialists can tell me how to make gables... I’m not interested in making scaffolding...

You will have to make scaffolding or use prefabricated scaffolding; rent is about 1,000 rubles/week in the city. They are needed for high-quality sheathing; the wall can still be sheathed, like the first floor from the stairs, but with windows on the second floor, and especially with sheathing, it is increasingly more difficult, wind or end strips It’s inconvenient even for two people, and even more so without scaffolding.

You will have to make scaffolding or use prefabricated scaffolding; rent is about 1,000 rubles/week in the city. They are needed for high-quality cladding; the wall can still be sheathed, just like the first floor from the stairs, but with windows on the second floor, and especially with lining, everything is more difficult; wind or end strips are inconvenient to install even with two people, and even more so without scaffolding.

I probably won’t make a binder yet, I haven’t figured out how to do it...

according to the residual footage there remains 3-4 m2, if at your prices 500 rubles per m2 comes out to a couple of thousand?

I can reach half of the pediment... but no higher... http://forum.wec.ru/index.php?s=&showt...t&p=3896101

pediment base 3m side 2.50 each

I probably won’t make a binder yet, I haven’t figured out how to do it...

I would be happy to help, but I have orders until the beginning of September and that’s based on calculations, or maybe because of the weather, the second job will turn out to be very busy, but I can give you advice without any problems. I would make this order for 3500 rubles (4 m2 x 500 rubles and a 5mp frame x 300 rubles), the frame needs to be created artificially from profiles, this is not 100% visible in the three photos, but I think you just have boards sticking out from under the roof after installation of corrugated sheets. Everything is quick and convenient with one cage of scaffolding, usually its height is 1.2 m. In the evening I will write in detail how to mount everything in words...

Everything is quick and convenient with one cage of scaffolding, usually its height is 1.2 m.

Yesterday I made the main 1.8m scaffolding and laid out 5 more pallets to reach the ridge... I think I can get it

the lining must be created artificially from profiles, this is not 100% visible in the three photos, but I think you just have boards sticking out from under the roof after installing the corrugated sheeting.

yes, that’s exactly it, and not everyone sticks out the same way, I still think it will go on top OSB sheet so that everything is smooth and then I’ll put a frame on it and hem it, but I just can’t figure out what materials I’ll still need...
I want to do something like this

Siding – affordable and practical material for cladding a house. Installing this material will not cause difficulties even for novice builders, especially if you follow the instructions with photos for installing siding with your own hands.

Required Tools

To install siding you will need the following tools:

• hammer drill or electric drill for installing guides;
• circular saw or electric jigsaw for cutting guides and panels;
• screwdriver for fastening;
• hacksaw and metal scissors - for cutting panels;
• tape measure - for calculations and markings;
• level and plumb line - for marking;
• scaffolding (scaffolding) – for ease of work;
• pliers, knife, hammer, square.

In addition, you will need a number of additional elements:

• siding panel, it is advisable to take it with a reserve, since trimming is inevitable;
• external and internal corners;
• starting, connecting and finishing profiles;
• load-bearing and guide profiles;
• fastener

Preparation

The edges of doors and windows are calculated by adding the perimeters, the number of external and internal corners, as well as fastening profiles, is equal to the height of the walls at the installation sites. The starting and finishing panels are equal to the perimeter of the walls in the lower and upper parts.

The working surface requires platbands, window sills, grilles, drainpipes, decorative elements and other protruding parts.

All cracks must be sealed polyurethane foam, cement mortar or plaster. Clean the surface from dirt and treat it with an antiseptic.

Installation of sheathing

Any type of siding is attached to the sheathing. A metal profile will last longer, whereas wooden sheathing will cost much less. Before installing the sheathing, markings must be made.

The outer profiles must be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the corners, strictly vertically. The step between subsequent profiles is 500-600 mm for metal elements, 300-400 mm for wooden elements.

It is necessary to achieve a flat plane using stretched string or laser level. The rigidity of the frame is ensured using horizontal jumpers.

Siding installation stages

Siding installation is carried out in several stages:

• determination of the lowest point;
• installation of corners;
• installing the launch pad;
• installation of edging on door and window openings;
• installation of siding panels.

The determination of the lowest point is carried out by visual inspection or measurements. It is ideal to position the bottom point so that after installing the vinyl siding, the top edge of the foundation is hidden.

The corners are mounted strictly vertically, maintaining a distance of 6 mm from the edge of the base. The distance between fastening points should not exceed 400 mm.

Then you need to install the starting profile horizontally. The distance from the corner profile is 6 mm, between the starting strips – 12 mm. The corner profile is increased in height using an overlapping installation with cut fasteners.

The overlap depth should be 25 mm. After the corners, you need to move on to edging the openings. Joints of horizontal and vertical panels are produced at 45 degrees.

When installing exterior siding, work should begin with the bottom left panel. First you need to insert it into the corner profiles, and then into the lock of the starting strip. Fastening is carried out every 250-300 mm.

If the length of the house longer panels, then at the joint it is necessary to fix a vertical profile and fix the panels to it (do not forget about the indentations for deformation). At the finishing stage, these profiles can be closed with special accessories.

Subsequent stripes are installed by aligning the locks. They should snap in place quite freely, without any special physical impact.

Every installed panel should be checked with level. The top row may be too high. In this case, it will have to be trimmed before installing the finishing overlay.

Additionally

At step-by-step installation DIY siding requires taking into account certain information:

• installation of heat and sound insulation is optional; waterproofing is indispensable;
• you should not cut the siding panels in advance, this will allow you to achieve minimum quantity scraps;
• during installation basement siding in the cold season, it is necessary to double the deformation gaps;
• the screws must enter the wall strictly horizontally in the center of the mounting hole;
• There is no need to tighten the screws all the way, leave a small gap to compensate for temperature deformation.

If you follow the specified siding installation procedure, this process will not take much time.

Photo of DIY siding installation

Siding panels are a spectacular design for the facade of a house. Thanks to modern technologies this finishing material can imitate almost any surface - stone, wood, brick. The popularity of such decorative panels due to low cost, as well as excellent quality characteristics. You can install the siding yourself. This does not require any special skills. Just use the instructions below for installing siding with your own hands for dummies.

The sequence of work when installing siding is almost always the same. Here are the main stages of arranging the facade of a house using this technology:

1. Installation of decorative panels always begins with the installation of a starting profile. Later it will be completely hidden by the first plate. If the starting profile is not fixed level, then subsequent panels will lie unevenly on the wall, so you need to constantly monitor the correct installation.
2. Each siding plate is equipped with a special lock, with which it is fixed to the previous one. There is perforation at the top of the panel. It is through these holes that the plate is fastened.
3. After the wall is completely assembled, the work must be completed by installing finish bar.

When installing siding, you should take into account possible linear expansion and contraction of the material due to temperature changes. To prevent the panels from bursting when weather conditions change, it is necessary to create temperature gaps. Siding should not be inserted tightly into vertical and corner strips. The head of the screw/nail that secures the plate should not press it tightly against the frame. The panel should be fastened in the middle of the perforation hole, which will ensure its mobility when temperatures change.

There are no specific rules at what temperature to install siding. It is advisable that the temperature outside is at least minus 10 degrees. But the size of the temperature gaps depends on the time of year in which the installation is carried out. In summer, the side gap should be about 10 mm; in winter, it should be increased to 12 mm.

Rules for installing vinyl siding yourself

Installation of any siding begins with the assembly of the frame. It can be vertical or horizontal. Most often, a vertical frame is suitable for panels such as shiplap or blockhouse.

Arrangement of a vertical frame

First, draw a vertical line at the corner of the house using building level and prepared plumb lines. Along the line at the same distance on both sides, holes are drilled for attaching hangers or mounting brackets, into which the metal profile is installed. Next, the same guide is attached to the opposite corner of the wall and a construction cord is stretched between them. Adhering to the given level, the remaining guides are attached in increments of no more than 40-50 cm.

It is necessary to additionally install frames made of profiles around windows and doors. In these places, near-window strips or casing will be attached. Additionally, reinforcement of the frame will be required in those places where it is planned to install lighting lamps or a split-system motor unit in the future.

Panel assembly

Once the frame is completed, you can begin the sheathing process. Panels different manufacturers have various designs additional elements and fixing locks. But instructions for connecting them are usually included with the vinyl siding. However, there are general principles panel fastening:

• corner profiles are attached strictly vertically;
• fix the siding panels starting from the middle to the edges;
• When attaching the plates, the self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are not tightened to the very end.

Helpful advice! To get a gap between the screw and the siding plate, screw it until it stops and then unscrew it one turn.

Assembly begins with the installation of starting and corner strips. Ordinary vinyl panels are subsequently inserted into them. Since corner strips are quite flexible, they can be used to create both obtuse and sharp corners. To obtain an obtuse angle, the bar is pressed down a little, and for an acute angle, it is compressed.

A special H-connector is provided for joining row panels. It is necessary when the length of the plate is not enough to completely cover the wall. You can do without using this element. Then the plates are screwed together with an overlap.

Rules for installing metal siding: instructions

The principle of covering a facade with metal siding is the same as with vinyl siding. For installation you will need:

• internal and external corners;
• starting rail;
• connection profile;
• finishing rail;
• platbands.

Installation of metal siding begins from the corner of the building. The first row of panels is attached to the starting rail with a bottom lock. The following rows are secured with the lock of the previous row. This is how the entire wall is gradually covered. The top row is fixed with a finishing strip.

Helpful advice! If during installation it is necessary to lengthen the corner strips, then top part should be mounted on the bottom with an overlap of 2-2.5 cm.

Installation instructions for basement siding

To install basement siding, you will also need to install sheathing. It is performed by creating the same frame as for the walls. If there is no concrete or tile covering around the house, then the lower ends do not reach the ground by about 7-10 cm. Additionally, before you begin installing the basement siding, you need to check how level the foundation is. To do this, measure the height of the base along the entire perimeter. If the height is the same everywhere, then a starting profile can be used for cladding. But if there is significant differences, then you will have to trim the very first panel.

Usually sides plinth panels stepped, so the protruding parts near the corners will have to be cut off. A straight edge must be inserted into the corner profile. It is also necessary to match the size of the panels and their number with the long wall. The final plate should not be less than 20 cm. The finishing touch can be considered fastening the J-profile around the entire perimeter of the base. It is necessary to protect against moisture.

Photo instructions for installing siding

How to significantly increase all the practical characteristics of a house and at the same time make the house look more solid and attractive? Regular siding will help achieve these goals. Step-by-step instructions for dummies will tell you in detail about all the types of this building façade cladding and how to properly install siding with your own hands.

Required tools and materials

Any construction and renovation process begins with preparation the necessary tool and building materials. What does siding installation technology require?

Regardless of the type of siding, the master will definitely need such electric tools, like a portable circular saw and screwdriver.

Among the usual repair tools at hand, the following will be useful:

1. Level;
2. Roulette;
3. Hammer;
4. Hacksaw for metal;
5. Cutter knife;
6. Awl;
7. Screwdriver;
8. Pliers.

Attaching siding involves active work on wood or metal, which means it is advisable to protect your eyes and hands from small particles. To do this, builders advise wearing safety glasses and construction gloves.

Which siding is better, metal or vinyl?

Depending on the material from which the elements for cladding the house are made, there are several most popular types siding: these are wooden (blockhouse), metal and vinyl. Which siding is better?

Let's analyze each type from the customer's point of view (i.e., by external indicators and cost) and from the position of the master installer (i.e., what needs to be done to pre-prepare the panels, how easy it is to install the siding, how to calculate the cost of siding and consumables etc.).

Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride, practically no preparatory work Installation of vinyl siding is not required. This material will be mounted on the wall of the house without special effort, since all panels are made according to a clear geometry.

Of the positive performance characteristics worth mentioning:

1. Environmental safety;
2. High fire safety;
3. Polymer siding almost completely eliminates the risk of rotting and damage by fungal diseases;
4. Tolerance to temperature fluctuations (from -50 to +50 C).

Negative indicators of vinyl siding include:

1. Low noise and heat insulation;
2. Inability to create bright contrasting colors;
3. It will not be possible to restore a color worn out by time;
4. After installation, the vinyl surface requires constant treatment and careful care;
5. The manufacturer provides a warranty period for trouble-free operation of only 50 years and only on condition correct installation designs.

Metal siding is panels made of galvanized steel with additional coating with various dyes.

What has:

1. Excellent resistance to fire and fungal attack;
2. Not necessary special care for siding (it is enough to periodically wash with water);
3. Metal panels are most convenient for implementing a wide variety of design ideas: more than 100 color options+ decorative coatings;
4. Before installation, no special preparation of the original surface is carried out;
5. Installation is easy at any ambient temperature;
6. There is no need to adjust parts with a hacksaw.

The disadvantages buyers include:

1. A complete lack of sound and heat insulation, which means that installation of siding with insulation will be necessary;
2. Poor resistance to mechanical damage;
3. The service life is up to 50 years, also with proper installation.

Features of installation of block house siding are even more complex:

• Here, additional pre-treatment of the wood with an antiseptic solution and various varnishes and dyes is necessary;

• The most basic surface of the building needs to be cleaned;

• Horizontal panels should be fixed to the surface in a special way;

• Constant treatment of the siding surface is required after installation;

• Due to the considerable weight of the wood, the structure weighs down the walls of the house;
• Extremely high fire hazard;
• Threat of rotting and infection with fungal diseases;
• Possibility of color presentation of siding: only shades of wood, i.e. brown siding with halftone shades.

Taking into account all the points described above, experts conclude that the duration of using siding under a log depends 100% on pre- and post-treatment/care.

But among the particularly valuable characteristics are high heat and soundproofing properties, resistance to mechanical and other types of damage, environmentally friendly and healthy material.

By analyzing the properties of each of the presented types, you can fairly determine which siding will look better on the facade of the house.

Sheathing installation work

Siding always begins with the installation of siding sheathing. What is siding sheathing and why is it needed? The sheathing for siding is a frame made of metal or wooden (section 20-40 mm) guides onto which the siding fence is attached.

• Frame horizontal and vertical slats for sheathing can be made of galvanized, aluminum profile, CD profile for plasterboard or other material: it is important that the contact of the building material on the walls of the house with the sheathing slats does not provoke destructive reactions (corrosion, rotting, etc.).
• Why you need lathing for siding is not difficult to understand. Firstly, this design allows you to “correct” the curvature of the walls of the house, hide small protrusions and surface unevenness. Secondly, it greatly increases the operational durability of the material due to the ventilation created.
• If the siding panels must be laid vertically, then the sheathing is made with horizontal guides. And vice versa: installation metal siding with horizontal panels requires vertical sheathing.
• Using a level, horizontal and vertical markings are made. From the drawn guides, every 30-40 mm, the frame strips are attached to dowels (for walls made of brick, shell) or to self-tapping screws (for wooden surfaces). Additional sheathing slats are installed under gutters, lamps and other practical elements.

Thermal and moisture insulation

Installation of vinyl siding is not complete without additional measures for thermal insulation and moisture insulation. A thermal insulator in slabs (or in in roll form). Insulation is complemented by a hydrobarrier. On top of the double layer of insulation + waterproofing, another sheathing is installed (parallel to the slats of the first sheathing), on which the exterior siding under a log, made of vinyl, metal or other material.

It is imperative to leave space between the hydro/thermal insulation pad in the sheathing and the wall of the house. This air gap will become an effective aid in implementing the functions of thermal and moisture insulation of a house, which will greatly increase its performance characteristics.

Installation of guide elements

Correct installation of house façade cladding always begins with attaching the first plank. This is a special siding strip, which will subsequently be almost completely hidden by other siding elements. But the final result depends entirely on how accurately this strip is attached: whether you will get beautiful siding or not at all.

What needs to be done? From the bottom of the wall on which you plan to install vinyl siding, measure a distance equal to the thickness of the siding (this is the width of one siding element). A nail is driven into a point along the measured distance from one edge of the wall and a level is used to determine the location for another nail on the opposite edge of the wall.

Two such landmarks are connected by a line - this is the main guide for installing deck siding. After several strips of siding are attached along the frame sheathing, it is worth checking again with a level for the clarity of the guide to eliminate errors.

Installation of external corner profiles

The exterior decoration of the house necessarily includes work on the basement, i.e. protruding part of the foundation. For installation of basement siding, a material of a more expressive format and often of contrasting color is selected.

For example, beige siding for the plinth will look quite impressive under gray siding for the facade of the walls. Corner elements that must be used for installation of basement siding are also used for finishing the corners of windows and doors.

Manufacturers have developed several different shapes for external corner profiles:

1. The J-profile is used to secure end and corner panels (in window openings, doors, corner joints), and also as a finishing strip. Under the starting bar this type It is not recommended to use the profile, since due to its shape (in the form of the Latin letter J), water may accumulate in the profile.
2. The H-profile is designed for fastening plates together on a flat section of walls.
3. The F-profile covers the slopes.

It is necessary to leave a gap of 6 mm between any of the protruding wall elements and the profile - this takes into account the maximum expansion of the profile material when the temperature changes. This is exactly the installation scheme that is performed for contact with the base: there is a 6 mm indent between it and the profile.

Installation of internal corner profiles

The procedure for installing internal corner profiles is practically no different from installing external corners:

1. Use J-profile;
2. A space of up to 3 mm is left between the profile and the siding panel.

If the wall of the house is more than 3 m, then when installing alto siding on the profile, the profiles should be spliced.

There is such a pattern: vinyl or other siding changes dimensions with increasing/decreasing air temperature, but you can determine in advance the direction of linear expansion of the material. Self-tapping screws are used for this.

If you screw a self-tapping screw into the outermost oval hole of a vertical strip not in the center, but along the very top edge, then the material will not deform upward, but only to the sides and downwards.

Installation of the first panel

As mentioned above, the first panel and first row are a guide to all subsequent rows. It must be attached to the starting bar. From this first panel, all subsequent elements will rise to the top of the wall.

Particular attention and diligence, of course, should be paid to the starting bar. How to properly secure the starting bar is already described above. Once the starting strip is secured, you can proceed to installing the first siding panel.

Practical builders have identified a number of tricks that can help achieve high quality and wear-resistant installation of siding panels:

1. Strips of siding material have a number of oval holes along the outer strip, which are intended for fastening elements (nails, screws). These fasteners should only be installed in the center of the oval, since this will avoid damage to the panels when their width and length increase with temperature changes.
2. The advice regarding the tightness of the screw heads to the panel surface has a similar rationale: the width between these elements should be such that a coin can fit freely.
3. At the corners, the fastening of the planks is not done end-to-end, since these structural parts of the house have their own elements (corner planks).

Installing vinyl siding on the wall of a house is easy if you carefully follow the recommendations of professionals and have all the necessary materials/tools on hand.

In addition to siding plates, it is necessary to purchase internal and external corners, starting and finishing strips, connecting profiles, and trims. These design elements will help you accomplish high-quality installation siding finishing in all difficult places of the house (corners, window frames, doorways, under a roof, etc.).

From the bottom level of the house from the far left corner we begin to erect the siding sheathing:

• The starting strip is attached;

• The first siding panel is attached to the starting strip using the bottom lock;

• The higher rows are secured with the lock of the lower row;

• The design is completed by a finishing strip.

Roof installation

The scheme for performing the work is no different from those described above.:

1. Installation of sheathing;
2. Installation of the starting rail at a distance of up to 15 cm from the ends of the walls;
3. The first panel of siding is laid into this starting strip;
4. The siding parts are overlapped, 2 cm each. The distance between fastening strips should be at least 0.5 cm.

Installation of the pediment

The pediment of the house is one of the most striking details of the design; it appearance catches the eye from afar. Naturally, the design of all installation siding work should be completed with a similar finishing of the pediment.

Conveniently, regardless of the type of siding chosen, the dimensions of the panels can be changed: the width is usually not adjusted, but the length and shape of the edge of the panel can be easily cut with a regular carpenter’s knife. The accuracy of the entire structure will be ensured by the types of profiles described above.

1. Lathing must be done for the pediment. It consists of the same guides as for the wall of the house.
2. The surface of the gable can be covered vertically or horizontally with siding panels. You can use a combined method - the transition from one installation direction to another is possible using an edging profile.
3. Work is carried out from the bottom up and ends with a finishing strip. The top panel must be cut at the angle of the roof slope. To do this, it is enough to make a template from a small piece of panel.

How to calculate gable siding? There is a simple installation method: from the center of the pediment. An H-profile should be installed on the central vertical axis, starting strips should be inserted into it and panels should begin to be attached to them in both directions.

Installation of panels

Externally, corrugated siding can be positioned both vertically and horizontally along a wall or other surface. The first siding panel is inserted into the fixed starting strip along the lock. You should hear a click, which means the bar is installed correctly.

Further rows of panels are erected upward, fastened with self-tapping screws to the sheathing, taking into account the above construction technology, and the design is completed by a finishing strip, behind which the outer panel is inserted, bending it slightly.

Rules for installing vinyl siding yourself

Any person can carry out all the work on finishing the facade of a house with siding panels. Cost of work at self-installation, of course, is several times lower than the payment to hired craftsmen. If you follow all the recommendations thoroughly and clearly, then there will be no mistakes, and the appearance of your home will allow you to experience a full sense of pride and joy.

• When installing siding with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions repeatedly focus on the following rule: when attaching the siding panel to the wall with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to leave a distance of 1-2 mm between the head of the screw and the wall.
• This is mandatory, because when temperature changes vinyl material Dock siding panels tend to expand, and when fixed “tightly” to the wall, the panels can simply burst or become significantly deformed.
• It is for this reason that siding work in Russia should be carried out only in the summer (i.e., during the warm season). After all, the polyvinyl chloride material from which vinyl siding panels are made has sufficient linear expansion.

You should pay particular attention to the installation instructions, since even minor deviations from the rules may result in sagging of panels of this type.

Rules for installing metal siding

• Metal siding panels are made of galvanized iron, which means a significant weight of the material. This means that the sheathing for them must be more serious than for vinyl, which will naturally affect the cost of the craftsmen’s work and the cost of building materials for the sheathing.
• Metal siding m2 at Russian manufacturer prices is almost twice as expensive as vinyl siding.
• For metal siding, post-installation work is also important, since the material requires attention to the condition of the paint. This means that the cost of work after installation is also considerable.

Conclusion: it is impossible to clearly determine the good and bad types of siding decoration for the facade of a house, because it depends on individual aspects: the condition of the house, the taste preferences of the owner, the size of his wallet, etc. Only one thing is true: dressing your house in a chic dress from Siding Design is profitable, durable and beautiful!

DIY vinyl siding installation

From a huge variety of finishing wall materials siding is distinguished by the simplicity of its operations in terms of its installation on facades. Regardless of the raw materials from which this material is made, installing siding with your own hands is a real process because it is universal. That is, be it vinyl siding, metal, wood or fiber cement mortar, it is mounted on the lathing. So the most important thing is to install it correctly on the wall. frame structure.

There are several options, a regular hacksaw, a circular saw, hand scissors and a sharp knife.

If you are using circular saw, make sure the disc has fine teeth. If you are cutting vinyl siding, the saw should be set to reverse side, any other type of siding is cut only in the straight direction. Using scissors, you can cut out elements of any shape and size. It is best to carry out cutting with safety glasses and start cutting from the fastening part upwards.

Frame for siding

The frame can be assembled either from wooden blocks or from a metal profile, which is used for installation plasterboard sheets. Today, some siding manufacturers offer ready-made frame elements that are sold complete with cladding.

The question of which frame is better: wooden or metal is asked by many novice home craftsmen.

Installation of sheathing

Before installing the sheathing to the wall, you need to prepare it.

Wall insulation

For a facade that is covered with siding, it is best to use slab thermal insulation material. This mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The main thing is to accurately select the insulation thickness. For middle zone For Russia, a thermal insulation layer thickness of 50-60 mm is suitable. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards are on sale.

If a house is insulated and covered with siding in the northern region, then the thermal insulation layer must be at least 100 mm. And here there is a difficulty, because the antennae of direct suspensions have a mounting length of 80 mm. That is, the insulation is thicker. In this case, proceed as follows:

• installed vertically on the walls along the marked lines wooden blocks with a cross section of 50x50 mm, which I do not align vertically;
• and then direct hangers are installed on them and attached to them with wood screws.

There is a simpler and better option - a short block of the same cross-section is installed under each suspension, which is pre-attached to the wall. And already there is a suspension for it. This is how the distance from the cladding to the wall surface increases, where an insulating layer with a thickness of even 130 mm will fit.

As for installing the insulation, through cuts are made in each slab with a knife so that the antennae of the hangers can squeeze through them. Therefore, it is very important to accurately determine the locations of the cuts.

Attention! Do large holes It is not possible for direct hangers. This will reduce both the strength and thermal characteristics of the insulation.

The slabs themselves must be laid tightly to each other so that gaps do not form between them. If any cracks still remain, they must be filled with foam sealant. This is foam in a can, but not mounting foam. It does not expand in volume in air.

Continuation of frame assembly

A profile is mounted in one corner of the facade. It is leveled vertically using a level and attached to the suspension antennae with special self-tapping screws, which craftsmen call bugs or seeds. Now four or five strong threads are tied to the profile, which are pulled to the opposite corner of the house. Here, each thread is aligned horizontally, having previously been attached to a self-tapping screw screwed into the wall. That is, the threads should form a plane that is even both vertically and horizontally.

First, a corner profile is installed along them, attaching it to the hangers, then the rest are intermediate. Be sure to install profiles around the perimeter of window and door openings.

Siding assembly

Do-it-yourself siding installation continues. Let's move on to last stage– cladding. Despite the apparent simplicity of the process, there are several important nuances, which affect the quality of the final result. Therefore, we need to pay special attention to them.

Installing Starter Guide Bars

This cladding element must be installed perfectly horizontally. Therefore, a self-tapping screw is temporarily screwed onto the corner rail, at a distance of 5 mm from its lower edge. A strong thread is tied to it, which is pulled to the opposite corner of the building. Place it horizontally and at this level, on the corner profile, also screw in a self-tapping screw, to which the free end of the thread is tied.

Attention!If siding is applied to all façade walls at home, then with one thread around the perimeter all the self-tapping screws screwed into the corner elements of the sheathing are tied.

Now you need to attach the corner profile of the siding to the corner of the house and mark their edges on the frame according to the level of the tensioned thread. Marks are made with a pencil or marker.

Next, you need to retreat 6 mm horizontally from the edge of the corner profile, install the starting strip below the thread, but with its upper edge exactly along it, and fasten it to the sheathing elements. Then the remaining thread guides are installed. The main thing is to leave a gap of 1 cm between adjacent planks, which is compensatory. That is, it allows you to expand plastic products under the influence of rising temperature, without touching each other.

There is another option, in which the gap between the corner profile and the starting strip is formed by cutting off the nail (mounting) shelves. In which holes are made for fastening. They are simply cut to the width of the starting profile, and the latter is installed closer to the corner elements, but with a gap equal to the width of the mounting shelf.

Installation of corner profile

There are no difficulties here, you just need to pay attention to two important points:

1. The lower edge of the corner strip should be 5-6 mm below the starting profile.
2. The top edge should not reach the soffits or other cornice cladding by 3-4 mm.

And so the corner profile is applied to the corner of the building and fastened with self-tapping screws to the sheathing of two walls. The main thing is to align the corner exactly vertically.

The standard length of the corner strips is 3 m. If the height of the wall is higher than this parameter, then you will have to install two or three elements. They are installed overlapping relative to each other with an offset of 2.5-3.0 cm. The top one is laid on top of the bottom one. In this case, the mounting flanges of the upper element are cut to a length of 3 cm. Be sure to leave a compensation gap of 8-10 mm between the mounting flanges of the two planks.

If the house structure has internal façade corners, then special corner profiles are used for them. Their installation is carried out in exactly the same way as external corners.

How to get around windows and doors - breaking off doorways

There shouldn't be any difficulties with openings. To decorate them, they use either special platbands, which many siding manufacturers offer today, or starting profiles. Their length is 3 m, so that with one element you can close both the window and door opening. That is, there is no need to connect anything to each other.

The side elements are aligned vertically, the top and bottom horizontally. The main thing is that the top plank should overlap the side ones so that precipitation does not flood under the cladding.

If windows and doors are not located in the same plane of the wall, that is, they are recessed into the facade, then a special corner element is used to frame them. That's what it's called - window. To do this, a finishing profile is installed around the perimeter of the window close to the frames. The tenon of the corner element will be inserted into its groove. And the corner itself is attached with self-tapping screws to metal profiles frames that were installed around the perimeter of the opening.

Let us add that the width of the corner shelves on the market is represented by several dimensional parameters. This is done to make it convenient to select an element depending on the seating depth of the window or door.

Siding installation step by step instructions

Installing siding with your own hands is the simplest process of all those described above. You need to start from the corner of the house. The panel is inserted with the side edge into the corner element, and the bottom into the starting strip. Don't be lazy to check it for horizontalness.

Fastening is done with self-tapping screws along the sheathing elements. The length of the siding varies in the range of 2.5-4 m, so one panel may not cover the length of the wall. Therefore, they are joined together with a special profile. It is called the H-profile. Its design has two grooves with different sides, which includes two adjacent siding panels. The H-profile itself is attached to the frame in the same way as the corner one. By the way, its installation is carried out before the installation of siding panels begins.

In this way, all rows are assembled to the last. In this case, every third row must be checked for horizontalness.

Now, regarding the installation of the last row. Firstly, a finishing J-profile is installed near the roof overhang cladding with an indentation of 3 mm. Secondly, the distance from it to the edge of the penultimate siding panel is measured. It’s good if this distance is equal to the width of the siding. That is, the panel fit exactly, covering the free space of the wall. If the size is smaller than the width of the panel, then it is transferred to the siding, the upper part with the mounting shelf is cut to this value.

So-called hooks are made along the upper trimmed edge. Essentially, these are cuts across the length of the panel, 2-3 cm long and 2-3 cm wide. The pitch of the hooks is 20 cm. The cut strips are bent outward. Their purpose is to fit into the groove of the finishing strip and push it apart to create a tight connection.

Installation of the pediment

We follow the installation analogy wall panels, consider margins from the edge of 9 mm in warm weather and 6 mm in cold weather. installation is carried out around the perimeter, all fasteners are installed in the center of the holes. We attach the last upper element at the top of the hole. For cladding, we will use an internal profile or a starter profile.

Take them into account and strictly adhere to them.

1. It is best to lay siding from left to right, from bottom to top.
2. The self-tapping screws are screwed in strictly in the middle of the mounting groove perpendicular to the sheathing elements.
3. Do not tighten the fasteners too much. It is necessary to leave a small gap in case of thermal expansion of the material.
4. If nails are used as fasteners rather than self-tapping screws, then you need to purchase galvanized fasteners.
5. Fiber cement siding is attached to the frame with clamps.
6. If it is finished with siding wooden frame, then you need to give time (at least six months) for the house to shrink.

Video - instructions for installing siding yourself

Conclusion on the topic

So, installing siding with your own hands (the step-by-step instructions are analyzed in detail) is not the most difficult process in category facade finishing. The main task is to correctly assemble the frame structure and strictly adhere to the nuances that were discussed above. If you follow the instructions provided, you can be sure of high quality the final result.