Which cesspool is best to make for. Construction and maintenance of a cesspool without pumping

Modern apartment good because there are no problems with wastewater discharge. A private house in this regard, it lags significantly behind, because it does not have a central drainage system. The only way to ensure comfortable living in a home is to arrange cesspool, into which all waste products of people living in a given house could be dumped.

Therefore, a cesspool in a private house is of paramount importance if there is water in the house. In the absence of a hole wastewater, displayed on local area, can very quickly pollute the earth, harming not only nature, but also people.

First of all, you need to decide on the type of cesspool, because its design can vary significantly.

The most simple pit is a tank with an earthen bottom through which water is absorbed. This type of pit does not require frequent pumping and is the most popular option. But with large water consumption, an earthen filter may simply not cope with its cleaning functions.

In addition, such a pit may be unsafe for natural environment, especially if wastewater from the toilet is discharged into it. Of course, if the hole is dug in clay soil, then the water will drain from it extremely slowly or even require regular drainage with a special machine.

Sealed cesspool absolutely safe for the environment, but requires frequent cleaning. With significant water consumption by the residents of the house, the need to pump out the pit may arise almost every week. This concrete cesspool is ideal for modern cottages, not equipped with a drainage system. For its construction, mainly ready-made concrete rings, which are installed on top of each other and sealed.

The most advanced type of cesspool is the septic tank. Its bottom is lined with large stones, cinder blocks, gravel, and broken red bricks. Such a filter is capable of mechanically purifying water, which does not further pollute the soil. The pit itself fills quite slowly.

It should be noted that thanks to drainage from rocks, water purification is carried out by bacteria, so a septic tank can be considered the most modern look toilet for a private home.

How to make a drainage hole in a private house

The construction of a drainage pit begins with calculations. It is necessary to determine the level groundwater Location on.

If, for example, this level is 5-7 meters, then the depth of the hole can be 2-2.5 meters. Making a deeper hole is not recommended, as problems may arise when pumping it out.

You also need to decide on the volume of the hole.

The average water consumption per person per day is 150 liters.

Therefore, this indicator is multiplied by the number of family members, obtaining expenses for one day. The cesspool must have a volume of at least 4 times this value.

How to make a cesspool yourself? To do this, a hole of specified dimensions is dug.

The thickness of future walls should be taken into account, so the dimensions of the pit should exceed the calculated ones.

If the pit is made airtight, then its bottom is concreted.

The walls of the pit are lined with red brick, reinforced concrete columns, or simply filled with concrete. You can use ready-made concrete rings that are placed on top of each other.

There is a very simple way to deepen concrete rings into the ground. The ring is simply located on the soil surface in a given location. Using a shovel with a short handle, soil is removed from the middle of the concrete ring. The ring itself gradually falls down. Then a second ring is placed on it and the soil is selected again.

To avoid distortion of the ring when lowering, its verticality is periodically checked with a building level.

When laying walls, it is necessary to provide for entry into the cesspool sewer pipes, which are preferably located below the soil freezing level.

The laid out walls must be sealed with outside, for this purpose use:

fatty clay,
roofing felt,
bitumen.

The cesspool is closed from above with a concrete lid, in which there must be a hole for pumping out the contents of the pit. You can cover the hole with sheets of corrugated slate, laying boards or beams as support.

Concrete rings are ready-made blanks for the construction of a cesspool. Concrete is more resistant to aggressive environments than brick, and the round shape of the pit will not be as conducive to silting.

To make the overflow pit, pits are prepared for two containers made of concrete rings. Concrete rings are placed in these containers, the joints of the rings are sealed and the soil around the containers is compacted.

The top rings of each pit must have holes for gaskets sewer pipes. If there are no such holes, then they are made using a hammer drill.

IN concrete wells the pipes are started. It is best to use plastic pipes, as they do not become clogged with deposits and are resistant to aggressive environments.

Adjacent concrete containers are connected to each other by drain pipes so that the drain outlet from the first container is 20-30 centimeters below the entrance to the pipe from the house. This height distance between the pipes is necessary to avoid clogging the inlet pipe with floating sewage.

How to make a cesspool for a toilet

The toilet also needs a cesspool. This is usually done by digging a small hole, which is accessible when cleaning it. The pit can be lined with bricks or filled with concrete around the entire perimeter.

The ideal option is to use concrete rings.

The depth of the pit for the toilet is chosen arbitrarily, depending on the underlying soil. It is advisable to dig the hole to a sandy layer that will absorb the liquid. It is recommended to fill the bottom of the hole with gravel, broken brick or crushed stone, which will contribute better cleaning pit contents.

The width and length of the cesspool are determined on site, taking into account the dimensions of the toilet. Ventilation is desirable. For this purpose, you can use a ventilation pipe that rises above the roof of the toilet to a height of 50-70 cm.

Often in a dacha or plot own home you can find an equipped cesspool, which is a 2-meter depression on the surface of the earth. The shape of such a structure can be square or rectangular, since this structure is much easier to make. It is believed that the most suitable option is round-shaped pits, since there is little load on the walls.

What types of drainage pits can there be?

Usually used for constructing cesspools various materials, but brick, stone and concrete are most often used. The walls of such a recess can be secured with boards treated with bitumen, but this is extremely rare.

Despite the wide variety of methods, pits can be:

with waterproofing and bottom;
without a base for constructing a bottom.

It is much easier to construct a cesspool made of concrete rings without a bottom, but there are some limitations. For example, it cannot be used if the daily volume of wastewater is more than one m3. Also, this method is not suitable for areas with high groundwater levels. In the worst case scenario, dirty liquid may enter the drinking water source.

When a hole without a bottom is completely filled, it is simply filled up, so this solution can hardly be called economical. This is explained by the gradual decrease usable area territories. Another important disadvantage is the distribution unpleasant odor.

Pit for a cesspool with or without bottom

To build a waterproofed recess, relatively significant costs will be required, and some difficulties may arise during the construction process. Despite this, this option is considered the most convenient.

Advantages and disadvantages of cesspools

TO important advantages waterproofed pits should include:

The environmental friendliness of the design is explained by the fact that waste is removed using a sewer truck;
You can use sewerage regardless of changes in groundwater levels;
such a pit cannot pollute the earth with waste;
It is possible to build structures yourself.

The disadvantages are:

the presence of an unpleasant odor, which can only be eliminated with the use of special chemicals that accelerate the process of decomposition of biological waste;
fragility, especially for brick cesspools;
silting of such a depression. If year-round use of the sewer system is planned, then the sewer truck will have to be called once every few weeks.

The disadvantage of any cesspool can be an unpleasant odor

Which cesspool is better to make - with a bottom or without a bottom?

When constructing a cesspool, you should first of all focus on the groundwater level; it is this indicator that will determine which septic tank is best to make.

If the groundwater is 3-5 meters below ground level, then you cannot make a septic tank without a bottom. In this case, it is better to give preference to local cleansing systems.

The same restrictions apply to situations when there is a well or well at a distance of 25 meters.

In fact, the advantages and disadvantages of cesspools are obvious. This design is easier to make and does not require significant financial expenditure. But you will have to call a sewer truck more often and be content with unpleasant odors and other inconveniences.

If groundwater is close to the surface, preference should be given to a local treatment station

How to choose the right place for a cesspool?

There are norms and rules according to which you should choose a place for cesspools. The main requirement is that this septic tank be remote from various types of buildings.
So, you need to focus on the following requirements:

the pit must be at least 12 meters away from residential buildings;
the distance from the pit to the fence should be more than one meter;
the cesspool should be 30 meters away from a well or other drinking source.

The last requirement applies more to structures without a bottom. When planning to equip a cesspool, compliance with these standards is considered mandatory.

How to calculate the size of a cesspool?

The pit must be constructed based on the fact that 0.5 m3 of water is sufficient for one person living in the house. Thus, for a family of five people, it is necessary to build a cesspool with a volume of at least eight cubic meters.

If in country house water heating devices and a bathroom are installed, then the water consumption for one person will be approximately 150 liters per day. The whole family will use 700 liters of water per day, that is, 0.7 m3. If the country house provides permanent residence, then you will need to pump out the pit once a week.

The size of the wastewater pit will also depend on the type of rocks in the area. If the soil throughput is good, then the volume of such a depression can be reduced by 40%. If the soil is clayey, then you need to make a hole with a reserve that will be more than the monthly waste norm.

There are also requirements regarding the distance to the surface in the case of a maximum drainage level, this is at least one meter. If you ignore this requirement, then the appearance of bad smells. The pit itself should be no more than three meters deep.

When calculating the volume of the cesspool, you should take into account the total volume of waste of the entire family

Construction of a wastewater pit

The process of equipping a cesspool without a bottom must be treated with the utmost responsibility, since waste entering the ground can pollute groundwater. For this reason, when constructing such a structure, it is necessary to fulfill all sanitary and technical conditions for a particular facility.

Important! You cannot make a cesspool without a bottom if more than one cubic meter of waste is discharged into it per day.

Immediately before work, you should decide on the location of the septic tank. As a rule, the distance from the foundation of the house to the structure should be at least five meters. In addition, you need to retreat a few meters from the neighboring site. Since there is a risk of dirty sewage entering drinking water, then you need to maintain a certain distance from the pit to the well or borehole. If the soil on the site has average density, then this figure should be approximately 30 meters. In the case of clay soil, this distance can be reduced to 20 meters. If there is more sand and sandy loam on the site, then you need to increase the distance to 50 meters. A cesspool will be a safe and inexpensive object if you choose its location correctly.
After determining the location of the structure without a bottom, they proceed to the stage of digging a pit required sizes. As mentioned earlier, the volume of the pit is determined taking into account the number of people living in the house and the daily volume of incoming wastewater. Depending on the volume of such a pit, the frequency of its pumping and maintenance is determined. As a rule, a sewer truck is called for these purposes. The recommended depth of the structure is no more than three meters. This requirement is explained by the fact that it will be easier for the machine to reach the bottom of the pit.

Important! Careful attention must be paid to the depth of the hole. When performing appropriate calculations, one should take into account the likelihood of ground level rising with increased precipitation and the onset of floods. To eliminate the risk of melt and rainwater getting into the pit, you need to strengthen and insulate the walls of the recess. For such purposes you can do brickwork or constructing a cesspool of concrete rings of the required size.

When determining the depth of the cesspool, it is necessary to keep in mind the flood level

It needs to be sealed with concrete inner side buildings, while special attention is given to the joints. Next, these same walls are treated with liquid bitumen. In any case, you cannot do without waterproofing work.
Between the sources of wastewater disposal and the cesspool, trenches are dug into which sewer pipes will be laid. They are dug on a slope with mandatory consideration of the depth of freezing of the ground, which depends directly on the terrain. The slope of the pipes will depend on their chosen diameter. To do everything correctly, you can read the regulatory and technical literature. If the pipes are laid correctly, then you don’t have to worry about clogging communications or freezing in cold weather.
After laying the pipes, they are connected to all points of plumbing and other fixtures. Also at this stage everything ends excavation. Very often, on a private plot, in addition to the house, there are other buildings, in particular this applies summer kitchen and baths. If all calculations of the volume of the pit are performed correctly, then there will be no need to make additional tanks.
Now you can safely close the dug pit. To do this, you can use a concrete slab or make a cast concrete platform with your own hands. As a rule, it is impossible to completely cover the pit, since it will still be installed sewer hatch, through which waste will be pumped out.

Features of cesspools without a bottom

The land for constructing cesspools is not the same everywhere, so there are certain features in one case or another.

Important! As a rule, wastewater is able to quickly pass through sand and loess, so it enters the ground without prior filtration. This is dangerous because nearby water sources can quickly become unusable.

Cesspools without bottoms can contaminate drinking water sources

To provide effective protection groundwater, some work needs to be done:

If possible, reduce the surface area of the earth through which wastewater seeps. A good way out of the situation is partial flooding concrete mixture parts of the bottom of the pit. Due to this design, wastewater will not penetrate into the ground too quickly, remaining in the tank as long as possible;
Concerning clay soils, they provide the opposite effect. Clay allows water to pass through slowly and difficultly, which is why the sewage system does not work at the proper level. In this case, it is advisable to lay additional outlets at the bottom of the pit. To do this, you should drill several holes in the ground into which perforated plastic tubes will be installed. As a rule, the more such waste, the better the throughput;
When determining the length of the pipe, it is worth considering that it should rise at least 1.5 meters above the surface of the pit. In a filled tank there is always a risk of pipes clogging, and to prevent this from happening, special plugs should be put on them. If a large number of holes are made in the pipe, then the water will quickly go into the ground, while solid inclusions will remain at the bottom of the hole in the form of sediment.
You can dig another pit near the already finished hole. A sewer pipe is laid at an angle between these tanks. This slope is made away from the first hole towards the second recess. The diameter of the sewer pipe laid in the trench must be at least 5 cm. Thus, when the water approaches the level of this pipe, it will overflow into the second hole, while the solid fractions will remain at the bottom of the first tank.

Important! If you do not clean out a bottomless cesspool in a timely manner, it may simply overflow. In order to eliminate this risk, it is recommended to install an overflow system. Similar works do not take too much time, and you will see tangible results.

A cesspool is a relatively quick and economical solution, with which you can improve the sewage system in your country house or suburban area. One of the disadvantages that affects the cost of maintaining such a structure is the fairly frequent use of a sewer truck to pump out wastewater, since the pit fills and becomes dirty quickly. Also, the frequency of calling the car will depend on the number of people permanently residing in the house. In the process of constructing such a tank without a bottom, it is imperative to follow sanitary rules and take into account all the requirements regarding the location of choice for the pit, as well as the distance from neighboring buildings and structures.

To dispose of human waste in suburban living conditions, special settling tanks are used. A cesspool with overflow is a special drainage design in which several containers are connected to each other. This allows you to reduce the frequency of cleaning and ensure the efficiency of the sewer system.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of a cesspool with an overflow is the absence of the need for frequent cleaning with sewer equipment. In addition, settled water can be used for technical purposes: for watering the garden, fertilizing the land.

Advantages of installing an overflow cesspool:

Cleaning efficiency. The waste liquid goes through several stages of purification in a draft tank, a settling tank and a finishing or filter tank;
High performance. Such structures are equipped for at least 2 cubic meters. Bandwidth such a pit is maintained from 0.2 cubic meters per hour to 0.5;
Saving money on sewerage services. Due to multi-stage cleaning, solid waste is screened out in the first, rough tank, and liquid waste flows into subsequent ones. This prevents the drain from overflowing and the formation of solidified masses;
Almost complete absence of stench.

At the same time, this design of the sump has some disadvantages. Among the minuses it is worth highlighting:

Relative complexity of arrangement. A big role in the operation of the system is played by the angle at which the pipes are connected, the position of the tanks relative to each other and other features;
Expensive arrangement. It will be necessary to equip at least 2 independent wells; this doubles the cost of building an overflow cesspool relative to a regular drain.

Design features

Despite the fact that a cesspool can be made from almost any available materials, it is recommended to use concrete rings to construct a system with an overflow. They combine perfectly affordable price And high quality.

Each sump consists of a bottom, walls and a lid. The structure of the first tank is strictly sealed, since it is a rough tank. This container collects waste from the home, toilet and other consumers. The second and subsequent waste tanks may be leaking.

Each drain is located relative to each other at a slight angle - up to 20 degrees. The connection is made by pipes T-shape. These pipes must be located at least 1 meter from the uppermost part of the pit.

When waste enters the primary or draft tank, some of it immediately settles to the bottom. The liquid mass moves through a T-shaped pipe to the next container for filtration, settling and subsequent use.

Tips for arranging cesspools with overflow:

How to make a cesspool with an overflow with your own hands

To construct a pit, a location on the site is selected that is 20 meters away from the nearest body of water and no less than 10 meters from the facade of the house. It is important to take into account that part of the treated wastewater will freely go into the ground, so you will also need to place the container at some distance from the garden.

The pit is dug manually or using construction equipment. The dimensions of the earth hole are 10 centimeters larger than the diameter of the selected building materials to strengthen the walls of the draft drain. This is necessary for further compaction of the sides of the tank;
A distance of up to 1 meter is maintained between the roughing and finishing containers. They can be located at a slight slope relative to each other (a roughing tank on a slight elevation) or on the same line. In the second case, the difference for the passage of wastewater is arranged by correcting the location of the T-shaped pipes;
Photo: example of connecting tanks
A sand and crushed stone cushion is laid at the bottom of the rough pit. The first layer is sifted river sand, the second is fine crushed stone, the third is more large stones. Lays on top of them waterproofing film. Depending on the level of soil freezing, it may be necessary to additionally insulate the drain. For this you can use geotextiles, clay or foam insulation;
The finishing tank is set up in a similar way, but there is no need to cover the bottom with waterproofing. Instead, it is covered with a thicker bed of crushed stone;
After this, it is installed on the bottom of the first container concrete slab. The first ring is mounted on top of it. It must be fixed level, since the geometric correctness of the container depends on the position of this part;
The outside of each ring must be coated with a thick layer of resin. This will extend the life of the container and improve the tightness of the drain. The rings are connected to each other with concrete mortar, the seams are also covered with resin;
To connect sewer pipes from the house, a hole is made in the upper ring using a hammer drill required diameter. In the future, it will also need to be strengthened with a flexible coupling and sealed with resin or a special sealant. A T-shaped pipe is installed on the opposite side of the tank to connect the finishing and roughing pits to each other;
To increase the efficiency of wastewater treatment, many experts recommend installing metal mesh filters on the connecting pipes. But this requires regular cleaning. It would be much more expedient to use biologically active agents for processing solid masses;
Note that covers must be installed on both pits. This is necessary to monitor the operation of the drains and necessary repairs.
Photo: installation of protective hatches

Convenient is that for such cesspools to work there is no need to equip a ventilation outlet. Gas formation is minimized due to the absence of large accumulations of feces. At the same time, a certain part of the wastewater and gases always goes into the ground. This feature solves two problems at once: reducing the volume of runoff due to gas and the presence of an unpleasant odor in the area.

Video: finished cesspool with overflow

Care cesspool with overflows there is also nothing complicated. Cleaning with sewer machines is carried out as necessary. On average, no more than once every six months. Every month you need to check the filters for contamination and siltation. If you use bacterial cleaning, it is recommended to update biological filters every 2 weeks.

Depending on the amount of water to be drained, you can select suitable option:

a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse;
sealed cesspool - for large quantity drains;
septic tank - for partial cleaning and drainage of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drained cesspool?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use drain hole. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bathhouse. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a cushion of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with brick, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep through and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold that can be buried immediately.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

Septic tank - the best cesspool

If the amount of drainage exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is expensive to order monthly pumping of the pit, the best solution is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting environment much smaller than a conventional latrine with a pit. Already on sale ready-made systems, which is enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has a number of advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;
+ does not require a large area for organization filtration field;
+ you can organize one septic tank for two houses;
+ depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;
+ carry out complete cleaning maybe once every ten years.

But such a septic tank also has disadvantages:

– significant labor costs – it is problematic to cope with the installation of a septic tank alone;
– time – pouring cement into the formwork and hardening it takes about a month;
– optional equipment– to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a location on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 meters from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about your neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation for a one-story building, and 5 m for a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is resolved - the greater the distance to the hole, the deeper the trench will have to be dug and the pipe insulated.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to install a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the groundwater level, you don’t have to bury it completely in the ground, insulating the above-ground part to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank pit

After choosing a place for the septic tank, work on its organization begins. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and general dimensions pit. So, for four people you will need a main chamber of at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six – 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and its daily use, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small reserve, since filling the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drainage in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately flow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a pit is dug. The top fertile layer is removed - it can be used to cover the septic tank and create a bed.

The trench for the drain pipe is dug at the same time as the pit. The slope of the pipe is 3 degrees per meter. To prevent the masses from stagnating, the pipe must be laid without straight or sharp angles.
It is advisable to get to sandy or sandy loam soil. A sand and gravel cushion is made on clay soil. First, 30 cm of sand is poured and compacted, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a 5 cm fraction is poured. Thus, for a septic tank 2.5 m deep, you will have to dig a pit 3.1 m deep.

All other formwork is done on top of the cushion. The formwork along the walls is one-sided - the other side is the ground.

A drain pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is inserted into the formwork at a height of at least 80 cm from the bottom. If it is located above the freezing point of the soil, the pipe must be insulated.
A tee is inserted into the wall formwork between the chambers, through which the settled water will drain into the drainage chamber. It should be 20 cm below the drain pipe.
You can mix concrete either manually in a trough with a hoe or with a concrete mixer. To give the mixture elasticity and frost resistance, you can add a tablespoon of regular washing powder to each bucket of water.

Concrete mixed with crushed stone and stones is poured into the formwork different sizes, and the mixture itself is bayoneted, removing air bubbles. The pipe and tee are poured so that after removing the formwork there is a monolithic wall around them.

Once the concrete has hardened, the top floor can be made. It is most convenient to use corrugated sheets for formwork. It is laid so that it extends halfway onto the walls of the septic tank - so that when pouring, the roof and walls merge into a monolith.
Done technical hatch 1 m in diameter, around which formwork is installed. You need to make two holes above the chambers and insert pipes. In the main chamber there is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a reverse slope for pumping out sludge, which does not reach the bottom by 20 cm. A vacuum release hole is made at the end of such a pipe. The second is inserted ventilation tube with a diameter of 50 mm.

A minimum thickness of 15 cm is poured, with the obligatory addition of stone and bayoneting. After hardening, the septic tank is covered with waterproofing and can be completely covered with earth, leaving only a technical hatch. To prevent the septic tank from freezing through this hatch in winter, it is covered with foam plastic and covered with another lid.

The improved DIY cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber silts up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and in the second chamber the final purification of the drain water occurs.

How to make a simple cesspool is explained step by step in the video:

A cesspool is a special depression in the ground designed to collect sewage and other human waste in those houses that are not connected to the drainage system through pipelines.

Today we will look at one of the most popular designs of drainage pits - a pit without pumping.

Device

The construction of a cesspool begins with the choice suitable place. There are three key rules that are used to choose the optimal location:

the pit must be at least 12 meters away from the nearest house where people live;
from the pit itself to the fence site the distance should be no more than 1 meter;
the distance to groundwater should be taken into account; it should be over 30 meters.

After this, they begin to calculate optimal size, and there are also several patterns here:

calculate the number of residents, as well as average rate water consumption per person (approximately 180 l), calculated monthly value volume of wastewater;
taking into account the soil where the pit will be located, it should be taken into account that those soil types that easily permeate liquid make it possible to accept only 40% of the monthly volume, and the soil that does not conduct water well will force the volume of the pit to increase above the calculated value;
it should be remembered that the soil layer must be at least 1 meter;
the optimal depth is about 3 meters.

Materials

Nowadays the most widely used types of materials used in constructing a cesspool are:

bricks;
reinforced concrete rings - similar to those used in wells. So, you can do ;
tractor;
special hermetic containers made of polypropylene and other polymer materials, but are the most expensive means.

Scheme

In general, the diagram of a cesspool looks something like this: the pit itself represents a pit in the soil of a certain size, in the middle of which, to preserve its original shape, as well as to prevent the walls from falling apart, there are hard materials, such as bricks, reinforced concrete rings, etc. along the entire perimeter of the pit. Outside, directly between the soil itself and the outer wall of the pit, there is a layer of clay called « clay castle» .

Required condition is the presence vent, equipped with a pipe for removing gases generated by fermentation processes in the pit. The final and most important detail is the presence of a hatch, which will provide access to the pit for regular maintenance.

Manufacturing instructions

Let's consider the 3 most simple options pit constructions.

Made of brick

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit with brick lining:

to begin with, use thread and stakes to mark the selected area - on average, the dimensions of the hole are 1 by 1.5 meters;
to fill the hole at the end of the work, you will need about 1.5-2 cubic meters of soil, the rest of the soil extracted during the digging process should be evenly distributed over the surface;
if you plan to drain wastewater through pipes, then you should dig a trench under the pipe in advance;
at the bottom of the dug pit, apply a 15-centimeter layer of sand, on which apply a layer of concrete of the same thickness;
With a sharp object, by “piercing” this layer, remove excess air bubbles;
after the concrete pad has hardened, lay a sewer pipe (if provided);
after that, start laying facing walls placing the bricks in a checkerboard pattern using sand-cement mortar;
to increase the service life of the cladding, also apply the solution directly to the outer part of the walls;
upon completion of the cladding work, apply a layer of bitumen to the walls;
make depressions in the ground 20 centimeters around the entire circumference;
build from corrugated sheets vertical partition along the perimeter of the pit;
strengthen the ceiling by using rods and reinforcement fastened together with wire;
evenly fill the formwork with concrete solution and let it dry for 25-30 days;
Carefully remove the formwork with the frame, making sure that the structure is strong.

From the rings

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using reinforced concrete rings:

dig a pit, maintaining as much round shape cross section;
mark the areas where the pit will be located;
fill the bottom with a layer concrete mortar;
build metal carcass with the help of reinforcement rods, which will have to evenly distribute the mass of the rings over the entire area and protect the concrete pad from premature destruction;
after the concrete has hardened, you can begin installing the rings;
the joints of two adjacent rings must be filled with concrete solution;
the outer part of the rings should be covered with a layer of bitumen;
After installing all the rings, they should be covered with a concrete cover, and the joint is also filled with mortar.

Made of plastic

The procedure for performing work when constructing a pit using plastic containers:

dig a pit, taking into account that in this case it will be significantly larger in size than in the two previous cases;
make the bottom as smooth as possible;
pour a 15-centimeter layer of sand onto the bottom and compact it well;
carefully lower the tank to the bottom and fix it in a stable position;
connect the inlet pipe of the tank to the drain pipe;
fill the free space between the tank and the walls of the pit with soil or sand;
Fill in a small volume of water to see how the tank compensates for the pressure on the ground. If the walls of the tank gradually bend inwards, the tank is not installed correctly.
completely fill the pit with soil.

Necessary tool

The main tool for personal construction of a cesspool is shovel. It is optimal to have both a bayonet and a shovel, since it is more convenient for one to directly dig a pit, and for the other to throw soil to the surface.

Be sure to have a bucket and rope for pulling out soil. You will also need a wheelbarrow to remove soil from the pit. It is necessary to have a tape measure or other measuring device on hand. To descend into the pit, you should purchase a ladder.

Considering that you will have to make a solution from cement, if it is not possible to use a concrete mixer, you should allocate a separate container for preparing the required volume of solution.

Installation highlights

As mentioned above, the first and main point of installation is the accuracy of the preliminary calculations taking into account specific needs. Then comes the correct selection of the location of the cesspool, taking into account the planned type of pit, for example, a pit with or lined with bricks will be narrow and deep, and a pit with a tank will be wide, but not so deep.

When choosing an option with reinforced concrete rings, you should take into account that their installation will require the help of a truck crane due to their high mass and fragility of the structure when dropped. The option with bricks and a tank can be installed manually. It should also be taken into account that to extend the service life of a plastic tank, its outer part should be compacted with a layer of soil.

When laying pipes through which wastewater will flow, you should remember that they must be below the freezing level of the soil.

Common mistakes

Practice shows that when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are often made such as:

incorrect preliminary calculations of volume and location;
insufficient pit depth;
weak strengthening of the pit walls resulting in collapse
walls;
the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
neglect of the rules for installing concrete rings.

Owners of private houses often face the question:

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