Ethiopian white calla. Ethiopian calla: cultivation and care

According to the Horoscope to Zodiac sign Leo (July 23 - August 23) Flower astrologers include the following plants: acalypha bristly; aphelandra protruding; Calceolaria hybrid; camellia japonica; gardenia jasmine; impatiens (impatiens): Waller, Holst, Peters, linearifolia, Hawker; mimosa bashful; royal pelargonium; Chinese rose; ; Zantedeschia ethiopica (calla lily).

IN Lately began to gain increasing popularity among connoisseurs of indoor flowering and decorative foliage crops Zantedeschia ethiopica (Zantedeschia aethiopica). This plant has many names: Ethiopian calla (Calla aethiopica), Richardia africanica ( Richardia africana), calligraphy etc. It is included in genus Zantedeschia Spreng ., including 8 types.

Zantedeschia came to us from the tropics of South Africa, where it grows on damp, well-lit river banks and wetlands, reaching truly impressive sizes there. It is considered a close relative of the marsh whitefly and calamus that live in our area. In my own way appearance this plant is extremely similar to Alocasia, which is widespread in floral practice and belongs to the same Araceae family.

Types and varieties of calla lilies

Thanks to the exceptional grace and severity of the lines, the exquisite (ideally white) bedspread, breeders in the last half century have paid a lot of attention to this flower culture. They created varieties for open ground(southern regions) and for indoor use(in the conditions of our North-West). By the way, New Zealand is called the world leader in the selection and production of calla lilies intended for cutting, as well as in the production of its tubers.

In addition to varieties Zantedeschi Ethiopian(with a white cover) calla lilies are also cultivated in warmer latitudes Elliott ( Z. elliottiana Engl.) with a yellow blanket of inflorescences and calla lilies Remani ( Z. rehmanii Engl.) with a pink blanket and spotted leaves. Interspecific hybrids have cream and orange colored spathes; Through the efforts of breeders, pink shades have even been brought to carmine and lilac. Very interesting varieties, characterized by fragrant flowers, unfortunately, in retail sale and greenhouse conditions are rare.

The varieties most often offered for indoor keeping are (the length of the peduncles, the length of the bedspread and the color are indicated in brackets): Little Jam (Little Ge)(up to 50 cm, 5-8, white) , Nikolai (Nikolai) (up to 150, 12-15, white, green at the base), Pearl von Zweibrücken (Perle von Zweibrucken) (up to 90, light yellow-green at the base), Schöne Zweibrückerin (Schone von Zweibrucken) (more than 100, blanket 15 cm in diameter, dark yellow at the base), Pearl von Stuttgart (Perle von Stuttgart) (up to 70 cm). Zantedeschia Elliott, with its yellow spathe and spotted leaves, is considered to be suitable only for growing in greenhouses and greenhouses.

To plant calla lilies, an evergreen semi-marsh plant, a gardener will need, first of all, a fairly spacious room (to put it simply, a small greenhouse is preferable). A small apartment, which is quite typical for the conditions of our city, is very unsuitable for this purpose.

At the same time, smaller varieties of Ethiopian Zantedeschia are known, but its knobby rhizomes will still require a container of decent volume, installed on a wide and deep tray. The plant also really needed high humidity air, rest period and additional lighting. So, you must admit, this plant is not very suitable for a small living room (especially a bedroom).

Calla lilies have cord-like, fleshy roots that extend from a succulent tuber. Its large (up to 60-80 cm) wide shiny leaves, arrow-shaped or heart-shaped, are located on long (15-30 cm) basal delicate bright green juicy petioles.

This plant looks wonderful when it has a peculiar large snow-white flower, blooming at the end of a high arrow. Although in reality it is not a flower, but a kind of asymmetrical sheath of white or yellowish color and 10-15 cm in diameter on a yellow elongated inflorescence - a spadix, consisting of very small inconspicuous flowers with a delicate smell, a little reminiscent of vanilla.

IN room conditions Zantedeschia ethiopica usually blooms in the second half of winter(quite rarely - from October) to May (but more often in spring - to April) for 1.5-2 months (in warm greenhouses usually in winter); Cut flowers can last the same amount of time. The appearance of an arrow is a sign of the beginning of new growth (when wintering in warm room it is usually celebrated in January-February, later in cool weather); at this time the plant is replanted, creating a temperature of at least 15°C.

Blooming calla lilies every week feed a solution of mineral fertilizer, where phosphorus and potassium predominate. Excess nitrogen causes rapid growth of leaves to the detriment of flower development. If fruits set, it is better to remove them so as not to deplete the plants. By the way, in its homeland its flowering, as a rule, coincides with a short period of rain.

Gradual return to active life Calla lilies start in August. After a good rest, it develops powerful leaves and then blooms again.

For successful development, it is better for the plant to choose a fairly bright, but also semi-shaded room, always protected from sunlight, moderately cool: it develops well at 10...12 ° C, for example, on a north-facing window. In winter, the optimal temperature is even 8...10°C with very moderate watering.

But during flowering the temperature is desirable up to 14...16°C (in a warmer room the quality of flowers decreases). During this period, calla lilies are watered abundantly and their foliage is often sprayed. To increase the humidity of the soil and surrounding air, experienced flower growers Place the pot with the plant in a deep tray, always filled with water. As the plant ages, it develops a herbaceous trunk and produces larger flowers.

After the end of flowering, calla lilies begin to rest period. It falls between mid-May and July. At this time, the leaves turn yellow and plant growth stops, although the roots continue to develop. Watering is stopped, but if possible, it is advisable to take it out to Fresh air(possible until autumn). This can be a balcony or loggia, but with moderate heat, without piercing winds and direct sunlight.

Calla Reproduction

During this period you can begin to transplantation or reproduction. The transplanted flower needs a room with a temperature of at least 15°C. After the plant has rooted, watering is increased and gradually brought to abundant watering.

Calla lilies are propagated quite easily and quickly (especially if the plant is cultivated in large pots) with the help of sufficiently tall offspring. They are nodules with small, weak leaves, which still need to be removed, as they weaken the tubers and delay further flowering of the plants. These nodules are formed in large quantities around the plant throughout the year.

The queen cells are carefully broken out from the bare rhizomes" kids"0.5-1.5 cm thick, which are placed for growing - each in a separate container. You can get 12-25 of them from an adult plant. It is better to do this in a small greenhouse (the air temperature should be approximately 14-16 ° C and humidity 80-85%). high temperature and lack of light, the leaves of young calla lilies stretch out, break easily, acquire a light green color, and subsequently the number of flowers decreases sharply. At good conditions next spring they are able to bloom.

Sometimes whole for reproduction root tubers are divided into several parts so that there is one kidney for each, but two are better. According to some flower growers, it is better to break them carefully than to cut them with a knife. Bare broken areas are sprinkled with coal (or treated with a solution of potassium permanganate) and dried for 3-4 days before planting.

The plant requires shallow landing: The rhizome should be slightly covered with soil. On initial stage the soil substrate with the “divisions” is poorly moistened. Watering is increased only with the appearance of the first shoots. Sometimes, when transplanting, parts of tubers break off, which remain in the soil and after a period of time produce small sprouts in the most unexpected places. With normal care, such a small piece - a "division" with one developed bud - produces a flower within a year.

Young calla blooms on next year , but with the beginning of flowering it is periodically reinforced foliar feeding- solutions of microelements (boron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, potassium iodide, copper) and often sprayed with clean water.

Calla can be propagate by seeds, which are sown immediately after harvest. Until emergence, the temperature is maintained at about 20°C. When picking, each plant is transferred to a separate container. The following year, the seedlings are given a dormant period for two summer months.

At the time of buying a healthy tuber must be elastic and must have living apical buds with light yellowish and not wrinkled skin in the upper part. Too dried (unsuitable for propagation) tubers look wrinkled, with buds without signs of living tissue and skin that has turned gray over the entire surface. Before planting, the tubers can be stored for some time in the refrigerator (vegetable compartment).

In March(but no later than April) them the peace is interrupted and planted, choosing a sufficiently spacious container for this: this culture does not like cramped containers, which is why it may not bloom. In addition, one must keep in mind that from a small nodule in appearance a whole thicket of half-meter-long leaves can appear. Soil substrate must be rich nutrients(turf, leaf soil, compost - 1:1:1), add a tablespoon of superphosphate to 3 liters of the mixture. The tuber is planted to a depth of at least 10 cm, since shallower planting leads to lodging of the leaves.

The pot is placed on a wide and deep tray. To bring culture closer to natural conditions, you can pour water into this pan, maintaining its constant level at a height of 5-7 cm.

The first to emerge from the soil are scale-like leaves. They begin to be sprayed regularly, otherwise the tips will dry out, which gives the plants a rather untidy appearance, and flowering may also be delayed. Also begin water feeding mineral fertilizers. At the beginning of the season, fertilizing with nitrogen is preferable, and during flowering - with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

For long-term maintenance the soil substrate must be very nutritious(slightly acidic, rich in humus), therefore its composition includes humus, turf and peat soil(in proportion 2:1:1); It would be ideal to add one part of the swamp land here. Some gardeners add a little manure or compost to the soil.

Experienced flower growers specializing in this group of plants recommend keeping in mind when purchasing them greater variability in the color of the bedspread. They warn that its color may fade in low light, resulting in a deep yellow or pink color, which appears in photographs in advertising brochures, is often impossible (even in a sufficiently lit place).

It should also be taken into account that all (without exception) varieties the color of the spathe turns green after pollination, and the original one (white or pink) disappears. Such a transition is a vital necessity for the plant, since it must use the spathe as an additional source of photosynthesis products (for successful seed ripening.). But experts urge you not to be upset: different shades of color will still create a pleasant harmony for the eyes.

Note that Calla lilies' leaves are not devoid of decorativeness. In some varieties, the leaf blades are decorated with silver-white or pink translucent spots, which create an unusual play of light if the plants are placed against the sun. The leaves of only a number of varieties of calla Remani are less attractive (with a wedge-shaped base and without spots). Based on the condition of the leaves of his plant, as if using a living barometer, the gardener can monitor changes in pressure: when it decreases (i.e., before rain), droplets of water appear at the tips of the leaves and inflorescence covers.

In greenhouses, calla lilies are kept in pots and in the ground.(under optimal conditions for it, it lives up to 10 years), but in the last decade it began to be bred exclusively for first-class cutting: flowers are stored in a vase in cut form for up to 1.5-2 months, if you change the water weekly and trim the petiole by 0.5 cm.

If the indoor air is too dry, it can settle on the plant. spider mite. It is also possible that aphids.

A. Lazarev, Candidate of Biological Sciences, Senior Researcher at the All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Protection

Zantedeschia or Calla belongs to the Araceae family. Its homeland is the humid regions of Africa and South America. The genus is named after the friend of the scientist who discovered it.

These plants are grown both in gardens and indoors, and beautiful flowers Calla lilies are actually a leaf that will grow around the flower.

Varieties of calla lilies

The genus includes only 8 species, and only 3 are cultivated.

This is a white zantedeschia that produces very tall stems with flowers. Unlike other species, it has a root, not a bulb.

This is a relatively low calla lily (about 65 cm) with a pink “flower”. The root system is represented by a tuber. In autumn, the leaves fall from the flower and a period of calm begins.

It is also not a very tall species, reaching half a meter in height. This calla lily has both a flower and a blanket around it of a bright yellow color.

It is a mixture of plants of a certain variety, the flowers of which will have different colors.

Callas planting and care in open ground

This flower needs some care, so before planting you need to learn how to care for Zantedeschia.

To grow in the garden, calla lilies are planted in May. Before planting, the roots or tubers should be inspected and, if necessary, cleaned of rotten areas, and the cuts should be smeared with brilliant green; they should also be dipped in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes.

The planting area needs to be well dug up and fertilized. mineral fertilizer, the amount of fertilizer is approximately 30 grams per 1 m 2. Next, planting is done to a depth of no more than 10 cm, the distance between the bulbs is about 40 cm. Water the soil with the planted zantedeschia abundantly. There is no need to water for the next 15 days; the plants will have enough moisture after planting. Shoots, most likely, will not be quick - from two weeks to a month.

Watering adult plants should be moderate but constant. Fertilizers other than those applied before planting are not required. In case of insufficiently acidic soil, you can water it with water with diluted vinegar or citric acid.

The plant should be planted in free space, open area, but what’s better is that trees be planted nearby that can cover the calla lilies during the hottest hours of the day.

Zantedeschi care at home

In indoor conditions, caring for homemade Zantedeschia is also not particularly difficult.

The flower is not very picky about temperature or humidity. The growing temperature in summer should be around 23 degrees. In winter, a decrease to 15 degrees can be allowed, but not lower. Zantedeschia does not like drafts, and it also needs to be protected from direct sunlight, but, nevertheless, it must be placed in a bright place.

In winter, if the calla lily is going to bloom, it needs to be provided additional lighting, so that daylight hours are 10 hours. Watering must be done carefully so as not to get water on the tuber, and in the interval between waterings, the soil should dry out.

Fertilizer is applied every fifth watering. For this you need to use balanced liquid fertilizers. The substrate for planting requires an acidic one, approximately 6 ph; you can add sphagnum or peat to the soil.

To force a plant, you need to take a tuber with a diameter of at least 5 cm and plant it in a pot with a diameter of 25 cm. The planting depth is 5 cm. After filling the tuber, the soil must be watered with diluted fungicide.

Care after flowering for calla lilies with roots and calla lilies with tubers are different. Ethiopian zantedeschia, which has a rhizome, turns into a period of calm in the heat, its growth becomes slow, the leaves turn yellow. Watering during this period should be limited, and the flower should be placed on outdoors, where there will be a lot of sun, but there will be no rain. At the beginning of July, Zantedeschia is cleared of dead leaves and shoots, and then replanted, fertilizing and watering begin.

How to store callas in winter

If your zantedeschia grows in the garden, then in September its roots will need to be dug up and kept together with a lump of soil in a dry, cool room, occasionally watering a little. Zantedeschia with a tuberous rhizome begins to turn yellow and dry out after flowering.

In the garden, such calla lilies are kept until last week September, and then carefully dug up, the tubers are washed and dried. The plants are kept at a temperature of about 8 degrees for two weeks, during which time the roots absorb nutrients from the stem and leaves. The dead top of the flower is then removed.

Before storage, tubers need to be soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, rinsed and dried again. Storage should be carried out at a temperature of 6 degrees. Do not put onions in plastic bags because they need to breathe.

If it is not possible to store root calla lilies as tuberous ones, then the roots are slightly dried and stored as bulbs. When growing zantedeschia in a pot, you don’t have to take it out for the winter, but you need to stop watering.

Diseases and pests

Among the diseases of Zantedeschia, the flower is most often affected by rot.
Gray rot most often appears from the soil or diseased neighboring flowers; bulbs can also be diseased.
To destroy brown rot you need to stop watering the calla lilies and reduce the temperature, damp upper layer It is advisable to remove the soil and replace it with dry soil.
Aphid damage may also occur; in this case, you can simply wash the flower with soap or use special preparations.
If your zantedeschia does not bloom, then the reason may be watering during the dormant period, or you simply have young plant and you need to wait a year or two. Also, flowering is absent with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.

One of the most beautiful and wonderful flowers is calla lily. Thanks to its sophistication, it can be found not just at home, but as part of an expensive interior. Some consider calla lily to be a wedding flower, others are sure that it is a flower of death and have seen it at funerals. But still, the flower looks like a bride’s attire and is more considered a wedding dress. There are quite a few types of calla lilies, in this article we will talk about separate form Ethiopian calla.

Some general information

Ethiopian calla (calla aethiopica) or as it is also called Ethiopian zantedeschia (zantedeschia aethiopica) is found in swampy areas in southern Africa. This is the most optimal and comfortable environment for growth.

On average, Ethiopian calla lilies grow up to one meter at home. The sheets are quite long, up to 50 centimeters, similar to narrow plates, up to 20 centimeters wide. They grow from the root into rosettes. On the thick root there is a flower from which the inflorescence spadix can be seen. Flowering begins in February and lasts only about a month.

Growing calla lilies at home is not difficult. a series of rules must be followed and decent care must be provided. This applies to both garden and indoor flowers. They have their own needs and characteristics:

It should be planted shallowly so that the root system is only slightly covered with soil. Otherwise, putrefactive processes may begin.
What novice flower growers call a flower, in nature is a covering leaf, which is also called a veil; it wraps the ear of the inflorescence. In reality, calla flowers are very tiny, but they emit a wonderful aroma.
Once planted, a flower will not sprout until its rhizome is fully formed. In this case, don’t be upset if you don’t see sprouts for a long time.
Dig out the flower tubers very carefully so as not to damage them.
For Ethiopian calla, it is recommended to choose porous pots. This way, unnecessary moisture will evaporate, making maintenance easier.
Calla is a solitary flower; it does not like having neighbors nearby.
Periodically, the top layer of soil in the pot should be removed, carefully, without touching the roots. Sprinkle a little nutrient soil on top.

What types of Ethiopian calla lilies are there?

Callas are very popular; their varieties differ in color and size. Let's talk about the main types of Ethiopian calla lilies:

Goddess Green. The flower has a cover of two colors. In the middle the blanket is white, its outer side is green, merging with the foliage.
Pink Mist. Most likely the name comes from the color of the bedspread, the base of which has a pink tint.
Sail White. The color of the bedspread can be understood from the name; it is quite wide.
Red Desire. A beautiful white blanket wraps a red inflorescence-cob.

What care does Ethiopian calla need?

For calla to grow and develop well, it does not need special care. The flower is quite unpretentious. But still comply certain rules need to.

Light. Ethiopian calla loves light, and as much as possible. But you can’t put it in the sun at home; the light must be diffused. Optimal daylight hours are 12-15 hours. For this reason, in winter it is necessary to install additional lighting for the plant. In the house it is placed on the windowsill, where there is enough light, but the sun’s rays do not burn.
Temperature conditions. Winter and summer optimal temperature for calla lilies - 18-20 degrees. In winter there is flowering, in summer there is dormancy. During the growing season, it is recommended to reduce the temperature to 16 degrees; if it is lower, the plant will begin to hurt. Calla is completely contraindicated in drafts and temperature changes.
Humidity. Calla prefers enough high humidity in room. Therefore, its leaves need to be sprayed daily. You can also pamper the flower with periodic warm showers. Containers of water are placed near the flower on the windowsill, and the pot itself can be placed in a tray with wet pebbles.
Priming. Calla is unpretentious in soil. The main thing is that everyone is present nutritional components. The soil must allow air and moisture to pass freely. You can buy soil for flowering flowers at a flower shop. indoor plants.
Watering. As soon as the calla begins to develop, moderate watering is necessary so that the soil does not dry out. During flowering, watering is more abundant. At this time, the soil should be kept moist at all times. When flowering is over, watering is reduced, then stopped altogether. For about 2 months the plant remains completely without moisture; no additional care is needed. During this time, some of the leaves die off.
Feeding. When flowering begins, calla simply needs fertilizing, which is carried out once every 14 days at home. It should be liquid. You can buy any for flowering indoor plants. The fertilizing composition should be low in nitrogen. It is this component that increases the formation of greenery, which will harm the flowering. But phosphorus will only be beneficial.
Reproduction. Ethiopian calla lilies are propagated by separating root children. Cut plants should be dried slightly for several days. Next, they are seated in separate pots. Another method of propagation is seeds. You can only use those that have just been collected.
Transfer. Calla lilies need to be replanted every year, and this does not depend on its age. When the dormant time ends (mid-late summer), the flower is removed from the pot, cleaned and planted back, only in fresh soil. The procedure is carried out carefully so as not to damage root system, lightly crush the earth on top. The pot should be small so that the roots cannot grow.

What diseases and pests await Ethiopian calla lilies at home?

All problems that may befall the plant appear due to improper care. The first thing that can lead to problems is active watering during dormancy. Diseases can also be caused by:

Cold.
Sudden temperature changes.
Drafts.

If you still couldn’t wait for the long-awaited flowering, the reason may be:

Not enough light.
The planting was in a very tight pot.
The flower had no time to rest.
Inappropriate fertilizers were used.

Ethiopian calla is extremely rarely encountered with various pests at home. The maximum that can infect her is a spider mite. And this problem appears due to improper care. As soon as you notice such a problem, send the flower under a warm shower.

With proper care, pests and diseases do not threaten the plant. Calla will delight you with its flowering for a whole month.

The calla has faded, what to do?

At the height of summer, the Ethiopian calla lily begins its dormant period. Its signs at home:

Growth stops and then stops altogether.
The leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out.

As soon as you see such signs, the plant should be placed on a balcony or loggia, or you can take it outside. It is important that there is a lot of light, it cannot get wet from rain.

At the beginning of July, the calla lilies are removed from the pot, cleaned of old leaves and shoots, and planted in fresh and nutritious soil. From this moment you can begin feeding, watering, and active care. Like this life cycle at the plant. WITH garden flowers the situation is different:

The flower remains in the ground until September.
It is dug up in the fall.
Store in a dry and cool place, watering periodically.

Ethiopian calla (Calla aethiopica), or Ethiopian Zantedeschia (Zantedeschia aethiopica), belongs to the genus Calla, family Araceae. In its natural habitat, it can be found in the swampy areas of South Africa.

This is a perennial herbaceous evergreen rhizomatous plant up to 1 meter high. Large green basal leaves are collected in small rosettes. The leaf blade, up to 50 cm long and up to 20 cm wide, is thyroid-cordate, with pronounced, slightly recessed veins. Approximately the same length and thick juicy petiole.

Bright yellow tiny flowers are collected in a 10-centimeter inflorescence-cob, protruding from a rosette of leaves on a long peduncle, and “wrapped” with a funnel-shaped bract-like leaf. This cover of the Ethiopian calla is smooth, white, with an elongated tip and can reach a length of 25 cm. Flowering occurs in late winter or early spring and lasts about a month.

Varieties of Ethiopian calla lilies

In addition to the specific form of the Ethiopian calla lily, its numerous varieties, differing in the size of the leaves and the color of the cover and flowers, have become widespread. Some of them can be noted:

“Green Goddess” - a variety with a two-color blanket: the center of the “funnel” is white, and the elongated outer part green, matching the color of the leaves.

“Red Desire” is a variety with a red inflorescence-cob and a white spathe.

“Pink Mist” - the spadix and the base are pink.

“White Sail” - a feature of the variety is a very wide inflorescence-cob.

Caring for Ethiopian calla lilies at home

In indoor culture, Ethiopian calla lilies are quite unpretentious. She needs very little to feel good.

Lighting. Throughout the year, the plant needs bright, diffused light and long daylight hours, up to 12 - 14 hours. Therefore in winter time The plant needs additional lighting with phytolamps.

The best choice when placing calla lilies in a room would be windows in the eastern and western directions. On southern windows it will have to be shaded from the scorching midday rays.

Temperature. In summer, during the dormant period, and in winter, during flowering, the plant prefers moderate temperatures, around 18 – 20 °C. At the beginning of the growing season, it is desirable to lower the temperature to 16 °C, but at lower temperatures, calla lilies may get sick. And it can’t stand Zantedes temperature changes at all, so drafts are contraindicated for it.

Watering. At the beginning of active growth, calla lilies are watered moderately, making sure that the earthen ball does not dry out. As soon as the plant blooms, increase watering. During this period, it is desirable that the ground is always slightly moist, but not wet. After flowering, watering is reduced, and after some time it is almost completely stopped, leaving the plant for 1.5 - 2 months almost without water. During this period, some of the calla leaves die off.

For irrigation use soft, well-settled water at room temperature.

Air humidity. Ethiopian calla loves high air humidity, for which the leaves are sprayed daily and periodically rinsed under a warm shower. It is advisable to place the plant itself on a tray with wet expanded clay or place a container of water next to it.

The soil. Calla lilies are not particularly picky about soil composition. The main thing is that the soil is nutritious, air- and moisture-permeable. Neutral universal soil for beautifully flowering indoor plants is quite suitable for growing it. If you want to cook soil mixture independently, then experienced flower growers recommend taking for it one part of turf, leaf, peat, humus soil and sand.

Calla lilies are also suitable for growing hydroponically.

Fertilizers. During the period of active growth and flowering, zantedeschia is fed once every two weeks with a solution of liquid fertilizers for beautifully flowering indoor plants. In this case, you should choose a composition of the nutrient mixture that contains a minimum of nitrogen, since it provokes a powerful development of green mass to the detriment of flowering, and a large proportion of phosphorus, necessary for the formation of flowers.

Transfer. Regardless of the age of the plant, it requires annual replanting. After the end of the dormant period, in July - August, it is removed from the old substrate, cleaned of dry leaves and planted in a fresh earthen mixture in the same pot. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar is not buried in the soil.

The pots for planting are chosen to be small so that there is not too much room for the roots in them.

Reproduction. The main method of propagation of Ethiopian calla lilies is the separation of rhizomatous side shoots during transplantation. The cut young plants are dried for 1 - 2 days and then planted in separate pots.

It can also be propagated by seeds, but only if they are freshly harvested.

Diseases. The main cause of disease is problems associated with improper care. And most common mistake, which gardeners allow - abundant watering during dormancy. Low summer temperatures are also contraindicated for the plant.

If calla lilies do not bloom, this may be the result of a pot that is too small, lack of light, lack of a dormant period, or the wrong fertilizer.

Pests. Ethiopian calla lilies are rarely attacked by pests, but if infested, the most likely guest will be spider mites. At the first sign of its appearance, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the leaves of the plant under a warm shower. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

Carefully! Calla lily juice contains calcium oxalates, which can cause poisoning if they come into contact with the mucous membrane or esophagus.