The roof is corrugated, what needs to be done to. How to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands: the order of work from the sheathing to the last screw

A material such as corrugated sheeting has long been known to everyone and is used in construction in a variety of roles - it is used to install fences, build garages and sheds, and also cover the roofs of outbuildings, small houses and even large mansions. Corrugated sheeting is produced in a variety of colors, so you can see houses covered not only with sheets of the same color, but also with a combination of shades. which looks very original.

To know how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting, you need to carefully study the instructions and then purchase high-quality roofing and consumables, prepare all the necessary tools.

It is very important that you do not need to have special professional skills to cover a roof with this material. The main thing is to follow the technological sequence of work and not make mistakes that could lead to a roof leak, which will require bringing the coating to perfection.

Advantages and disadvantages of corrugated sheeting as a roofing material

Like any roofing material, corrugated sheeting has its pros and cons, which you need to know before purchasing it.

TO positive qualities This material includes the following:

• The light weight of the corrugated sheet allows you to easily lift it to a height and, if necessary, level it at the installation site.
• Optimal ratio of cost and service life of the material. With high-quality installation, the manufacturer sets a minimum service life of 12 ÷ 15 years.
• Easy installation - the material is easily overlapped and screwed with special self-tapping screws.
• The aesthetics of the covering – corrugated sheeting, thanks to the variety of colors, makes the appearance of the house neat and gives it individuality.
• The relief of most sheet models includes special capillary grooves, which are designed to effectively drain water when laying sheets of material overlapping.

Negative qualities corrugated sheets can be called:

• High thermal conductivity of the metal. Therefore, corrugated sheeting will not protect attic space from overheating or low temperatures. If this coating is chosen, a good attic floor will be required, which involves additional costs for thermal insulation material and its installation.
• In windy weather, when the wind speed is 15 m/s or higher, any metal coating emits ultrasonic vibrations, which negatively affects the human psyche. Therefore, in regions with constant windy weather, it is better to give preference to roofing coverings that do not vibrate in the wind.
• Low sound insulation. If the roof is not equipped with heat and sound insulating material, the sounds of drops or hailstones falling on the roof will be clearly audible in the house.

Choice corrugated sheeting for roofing

Corrugated sheets can be made from galvanized metal sheets that do not have a color coating. Such sheets are most often used to create temporary or permanent canopies, or to cover outbuildings. It is also often used to fence construction sites. Unpainted corrugated sheeting has a fairly low cost, but is not very suitable for covering residential buildings, as it has low performance characteristics and is not very attractive from an aesthetic point of view.

It is very popular, which has a decorative protective coating made of polymer compounds. This material is more durable and can withstand quite serious loads. Of course this is — at correct installation, which largely depends on the slope of the roof slopes.

Several types of corrugated sheeting are produced that have a protective and decorative polymer coating:

• Bearing (H) - intended for covering the roof, ceilings and canopies.
• Wall ( WITH) - used for the construction of fences, hangars, garages.
• Universal (NS) - suitable for roofing, installation of fences, construction of garages, utility facilities, etc.

To cover the roof it is better to use a load-bearing one, but as a last resort You can use any of the above types.

In addition, this material varies in height and number of waves. The height of the wave (corrugation) is indicated by a number that is placed next to the marking of the type of corrugated sheet. For example, several models are presented in table:

Marking	Appearance corrugated sheets	Application	Corrugation height in mm	Metal thickness in mm	Usable width in mm
C10		Wall	10	0,5; 0,6; 0,7	1100
C18		Wall	18	0,5; 0,6; 0,7; 0,8	1000
S21		Wall	21	0,5; 0,6; 0,7; 0,8	1000
		Roofing Wall	35	0,5; 0,6; 0,7; 0,8	1000
C44		Wall	44	0,5; 0,6; 0,7; 0,8; 0,9; 1,0	1000
H60		Roofing	60	0,7; 0,8; 0,9; 1,0	845

A metal sheet of corrugated sheets can have one-sided or two-sided coating, but no matter what it is purchased for, it is better to choose a material that is protected on both sides.

The coating consists of numerous protective layers, the diagram offered to your attention clearly shows which layers cover the outer and inner sides.

External side of roofing material:

• The basis for corrugated sheets is steel sheet.
• The steel is coated with a layer of zinc.
• Next comes the anti-corrosion coating.
• A primer layer is applied to it, which serves as a preparation for the polymer.
• Then comes the colored polymer coating.
• Often applied to a color polymer coating protective film(polyurethane), which will keep it from fading and peeling.
• For transportation and storage of corrugated sheeting, it can be additionally covered with a film coating on top, which is removed after installation.

The inner side of the corrugated sheet is covered in the same sequence with exactly the same materials, but on some models it is colored polymer film the inside is missing, but on others the sheet is covered equally on both sides. The latter, of course, have a higher cost, but their service life is much longer.

The color range of corrugated sheets is quite varied. According to the most conservative estimates, the color range is represented by no less than 30 shades, so choosing the right one will not be difficult. The color layer can be applied to the surface using powder or using a special polymer coating technology.

If we summarize the selection criteria, we can list the following:

• To ensure that the material is of high quality and produced in professional conditions, you should ask the seller for a product certificate. If it is missing, then it is better to contact another store.
• The markings of the material are checked, indicating its purpose, thickness and wave height.
• The appearance of the material is assessed. It is necessary to pay attention to the evenness of the sheet, the absence of defects in the coloring and protective layer, the same shade of all sheets, and the uniformity of the coating. Appearance can tell a lot about the quality of corrugated sheeting - if upon inspection you find peeling of the coloring layer or burrs on the cuts, then it is better to refuse the purchase.
• Another criterion is to check the corrugated sheet for bending - quality material should be elastic, and if you try to bend it, it tends to return to its previous position. In this case, no trace of bending should appear on the coating.
• Type of external decorative coating - polymer or powder. The highest quality corrugated sheet coverings are matte and regular polyester and plastisol. Coating details must also be included in the product certificate.
• Material price. We must remember that you should not choose the cheapest material - it is unlikely to be of high quality. Moreover, all corrugated sheets have a very affordable price.

When the material is purchased, it is necessary to correctly deliver it to the construction site, and also carefully, without damage, unload it and raise it to a height.

Prices for various types of corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheet

How to avoid damage during transportation and installation of material?

It is important to highlight this issue because damage to the corrugated sheeting during its delivery, unloading and installation will significantly reduce the service life of the future roof.

This material is made from steel sheet, which is given relief by cold rolling in special equipment.

Such material, laid as a roof, is able to withstand high wind and snow loads, but during its transportation, loading and unloading, the covering of the sheets may be subjected to unnecessary mechanical loads, which will lead to its damage. To prevent this from happening, certain rules for transporting, storing, carrying and lifting sheets must be followed.

• Transportation of corrugated sheets is carried out by trucks. The sheets must be stacked on a rigid base of the body or on a special metal frame, which is fixed in the body at an angle.

• After laying the roofing material in the car, it must be securely secured with slings to avoid friction of the sheets against each other when the car is moving, since this is what can lead to damage to the protective coating.
• A vehicle transporting corrugated sheets must move at a speed of no more than 80 km/h.
• It is very important to ensure that the unloading of the roof covering is carried out with the utmost care. If unloading will be done manually, it is advisable that each sheet is removed from the stack separately, transferred and placed in the place prepared for them. It is best to prepare a flooring of boards and plywood, covered with polyethylene on top.
• It is necessary to ensure that none of the sheets are bent during transportation, since it will not be possible to return it to its original state, which means that when covering, gaps will form between the sheets that will disrupt the evenness and integrity of the roof.
• To lift corrugated sheeting onto the roof without causing harm to it, you also need to do it correctly:

- to accurately lift the material, you will need logs that are installed at an angle to the roof - these will be a kind of “rails” for the convenience of lifting sheets;

— sheets rise to a height of only one piece at a time;

— the installation of corrugated sheeting on the roof itself can be done by two craftsmen, but lifting the roofing material to a height is best done by three people — this is additional insurance for the integrity of the material and the safety of the work.

Now a few words about how not to damage the corrugated sheet during installation.

The maximum risk of damage to the material occurs if a large area of ​​the roof is covered, since during the installation and fastening process you will have to walk on the already laid roof. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the right shoes for work - they should not only be comfortable, but also have a soft elastic sole that cannot damage the protective layer and will not slip on the roof surface. You can step on the fixed roofing material only between the ribs and only in those places where the guides pass, especially if there is a large step between them.

In order for the installation to proceed accurately, without unnecessary damage to the roofing material, you need to use only high-quality tools. To work you will need:

• Screwdriver.
• Roulette.
• Scissors for cutting metal up to 0.6 mm thick.
• Marker for marks.
• Level.
• Electric drill.
• Rubber hammer.
• Jigsaw or electric scissors.
• A soft brush for sweeping away metal shavings.

It is forbidden to cut corrugated sheets with a grinder. Optimal tool For this purpose - electric scissors

Features of installing corrugated sheeting as a roof

In order for the installation of roofing material to be successful, it is necessary to take into account some features of the work.

Influence of roof slope on installation

Much of the process of covering with roofing material depends on the slope of the roof. It is very important to correctly position the boards or bars of the sheathing, as well as maintain the required amount of overlap of the corrugated sheets.

• If the slope of the slope is 5 ÷ 10 degrees, then the sheathing is made continuous or the slats are nailed at a distance of no more than 5 ÷ 7 mm from each other.

The overlap of the sheets in this case should be horizontal in two waves, and the top row on the bottom row should be at least 300 mm. Moreover with such a small slope of the slope, the gaps between the corrugated sheets are most often filled with sealant, since there is still a risk of water flowing between them, especially in windy weather.

• When the slope of the roof slope is 10 ÷ 15 degrees, the distance between the sheathing bars is 400 ÷ 450 mm, and adjacent sheets are laid overlapping on one wave. The top row should overlap the bottom by 200 ÷ 220 mm.
• If the roof slope is more than 15 degrees, the sheathing bars are secured on the rafters on distance of 550 ÷ 600 mm. The overlap of sheets laid next to each other is made in one wave, and the top row overlaps the bottom row by 170 ÷ 200 mm.

To make it convenient to mark and fasten the sheathing, cut out the right size, for example, 600 mm, which will help to install the frame under the roofing much faster.

The procedure for securing sheets

It is very important to follow the sequence of laying sheets if the coating consists of two or more horizontal rows of corrugated sheets.

• Laying of roofing material starts from the eaves. The outermost sheet is set strictly according to construction level, since the correct installation of all other roof elements will depend on its evenness. In addition, the laid sheets are aligned along the lower edge of the overhang - if this method of alignment is excluded, the lower edge of the roof will be uneven.

• Upon completion of the installation of the first row, fastening the second begins on the same side of the roof from which the first was mounted. However, some masters also practice a different approach - with sequential laying of the lower, and then top sheet, or with a “ladder” laying - for example, two sheets below - one on top, that is, the top row is constantly “lagging behind” by 1 sheet.

The best option- if the length of the sheet is sufficient for the entire roof slope

• If it is possible to purchase sheets equal to the length of the slope, then you should give preference to this option - this will reduce installation time, and the roof will be more reliably protected from leaks, since there will simply be no horizontal overlaps of the sheets.

Rules for fastening corrugated sheets

This is done using special self-tapping screws equipped with a press washer and a rubber gasket. To make the roof look aesthetically pleasing, the screws are usually matched to the color of the base material.

• If the roof is covered with sheets that are continuous along the length of the slope, then the first sheet is temporarily fixed at the top below the roof ridge by 50 mm and at the bottom, on the overhang. The sheet should protrude beyond the edge of the overhang by 40 ÷ 50 mm. The upper distance left open will become a ventilation gap and will later be covered with a ridge element on top.
• The second sheet is laid overlapping with the first by one or two waves, depending on the slope, aligned with the overhang of the first sheet and screwed with a self-tapping screw.

• Subsequent sheets are laid and aligned along the overhang and fastened together at the crest of the wave. They are fastened from the cornice to the ridge with a screw-in step of 500 mm.

• When 3-5 sheets of corrugated sheeting are laid and they are aligned along the edge of the overhang, they are permanently secured to the sheathing. The sheets are attached to the sheathing at the bottom of the wave, immediately after the sheets overlap, and then, passing one wave, along the bottom of the second.
• If two or more horizontal rows are laid, then in the strip of their overlap they are secured with self-tapping screws along the bottom of each wave.

If corrugated sheeting with a polymer coating is installed, then after screwing in the screws, it is recommended to remove the resulting metal shavings to avoid damaging the protective coating of the roofing material. It is completely swept away from the coating using a soft brush.

It is also necessary to stipulate the requirement that under no circumstances should corrugated sheeting be secured to the sheathing with nails or rivets, since such fasteners will not hold the sheet when a high wind load occurs. The wind can easily tear off the roof covering, leaving the nails in the sheathing bars.

Installation of additional elements

In addition to corrugated sheets, the roofing structure also contains other elements that help protect the structure from the penetration of precipitation into the attic. It should be noted that the presence of even one formed or unclosed gap in the roof can seriously damage the ceiling, as well as the walls and ceiling of the house.

Additional roofing elements include ridge, valleys, lining of pipes passing through the roof, eaves boards and others.

Skate attachment

After completing the installation of the corrugated sheets, at the highest point of the roof, its edges are covered with a ridge.

The ridge is secured with the same screws, through the top of the corrugated sheeting waves, in increments of 200 ÷ 300 mm. To make the fastening reliable, when installing the sheathing, it is necessary to provide two longitudinal boards on both sides of the ridge in advance.

When installing a ridge, it cannot be pressed tightly against the highest point of the roof - there must be a ventilation gap between it and the inner surface of the ridge element.

If a semicircular type of ridge is installed, then special plugs are installed and secured on its end sides.

Since the ridge is assembled from individual elements, they are also overlapped. Simple ridges shaped like an angle should have an overlap of 120 ÷ 150 mm, and semicircular (tiled) ridges should have an overlap of 100 ÷ 120 mm, aligning them along the stiffeners.

Use it in our article.

Finishing the gable part of the roof from corrugated sheets

To eliminate the possibility that the corrugated sheet will be torn off by the wind end side, the gap between the sheets and the sheathing is closed with wind angles or slats, which are placed on one side of the corrugated sheet, and the other on the first rafter facing the end of the building. The plank is also secured with self-tapping screws in increments of 400 ÷ 500 mm.

Cladding of the end part of the roof. 1 — wind strip, 2 — screws

Since the planks are also made up of individual elements, they are laid with an overlap of 70 ÷ 100 mm.

Attaching the cornice

The cornice is installed before the base roofing material is laid. He performs and decorative role, closing the side connections rafter system, and functional, preventing splashes when water flows from the roof into the drain from getting onto the wooden parts. In addition, brackets for laying the gutter are attached under the eaves or on top of it.

• Most often, drainage brackets are first secured to the sheathing with self-tapping screws at a distance of 500 ÷ 600 mm from each other. They are lowered below the sheathing by 100 ÷ 150 mm.
• Then the gutter is installed on the brackets.
• After this, the cornice strip is installed and nailed or screwed to the bottom board of the sheathing.

• The corrugated sheets are laid on top of the eaves strip, and must be aligned in such a way that water flowing from them directly falls into the fixed gutter

Installation of the valley

Installation of a valley is not required for every roof, but only where it has a complex configuration with profile breaks. If there is a junction of two planes facing downwards, then you cannot do without installing this element.

The endow consists of two parts - internal and external.

• The inner part of the valley is laid before the roofing is laid. It is attached to the junction of two roof planes and fixed to the sheathing roofing screws in increments of 350÷500 mm. The individual parts of the long valley are laid, starting from the cornice and rising to the ridge, with an overlap of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.

• After the corrugated sheets have been laid (with a shift by inner part valleys by 80 ÷ 100 mm), a layer of porous sealant is laid between them and the inner part of the valley. This material will prevent leakage during rain. Then the corrugated sheeting through the bottom of the waves in increments of 400 ÷ 500 mm, together with the lower part of the valley, is screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws.
• After this, the edges of the corrugated sheets are applied silicone sealant, and fits on it outer part valley. Just like the internal one, it is composite, so its parts are overlapped by 100 mm, starting installation from the cornice and coating the joints with sealant.

• After this, the outer part of the valley is screwed with self-tapping screws to the corrugated sheet.

Fastening snow guard

Snow guard- this is an element that will prevent snow from suddenly falling off the roof in the spring, delaying it and giving it time to melt and drain with water or evaporate.

Snow guards There are two types - these are peculiar strips in the form of corners, scrolling in a checkerboard pattern, or horizontal tubular barriers installed in special brackets.

The brackets are attached to the surface of the corrugated sheet at a distance of 900 ÷ 1000 mm. Then special tubes with threads along the edges are inserted into the holes in them, onto which, after installation, metal plugs are screwed.

Both brackets and strips snow guards are attached through corrugated sheeting to the sheathing. When fastening the planks, they are screwed through the top of the wave, so gaps are formed between the plank and the corrugated sheet, through which melt water will flow out.

Wall profile covering the joint between the wall and the corrugated sheet

If a corrugated roof is adjacent to a wall, then the joint between them must be closed to avoid leakage. For this purpose, there is a special shaped strip - a wall profile, which is mounted on the wall using anchor fasteners, and on the metal profile - with self-tapping screws screwed into the crest of the wave.

Silicone sealant can be used to seal the joint between the plank and the wall. In addition, it is advisable to make a groove in the wall to hide the upper curved edge of this profile in it. After installation, the groove can be sealed, for example, cement mortar or tile adhesive for outdoor work.

Seals for corrugated sheets

Seals are used in roofing work to close gaps at the junctions of the covering with the wall, in places of “fractures” of hipped roofs and under the ridge.

Seals usually have an adhesive layer on one side, covered with parchment, which is removed before installation and the material is glued in the right place.

Designing the passage of a pipe through corrugated sheeting

If the chimney pipe of a stove or fireplace passes through the corrugated sheet covering, or ventilation duct, then you will have to work on it. But before do work By exterior decoration joints, must be installed around chimney internal apron, which mounted before laying on the corrugated sheeting.

An apron is installed around the pipe from separate metal adjacent profiles. On the walls of the chimney, using a marker, mark a line along which a groove will be punched to bend the upper edge of the adjacent profiles into it. Then it must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and washed with water.

After this, the so-called tie - stripe metal sheet, having flanges that are mounted from the pipe to the cornice. The tie is necessary to drain water accumulating behind the pipe during rain.

After this, the lower part of the apron must be secured for sealant, on sheathing and lay a tie on the sides of the pipe, and install the upper edge in the groove, also on the sealant. When installing parts of the adjacent strip, you must ensure that they overlap each other by 150 mm.

After interior work will be completed, installation of corrugated sheets is underway. When the roofing material is laid around the chimney pipe, the outer flashing strips are installed, which are secured to the pipe and to the ridges of the corrugated sheeting on the roof.

General sequence of roof covering with corrugated sheeting

So, knowing how to install all the additional elements and the corrugated sheeting itself, you can consider the sequence of work on covering the roof with this roofing material.

• The first step is to cover the rafter system. It is laid from the eaves, overlapping the slope horizontally by 100 ÷ 150 mm. The film is secured using a stapler with staples on rafter legs Oh.
• Counter-lattice bars are nailed to the rafters on top of the film, which will create the necessary ventilation gap between the film and the roofing material. The size of the bars should be 400 × 500 mm, that is, the ventilation gap will be 400 mm.
• The sheathing of the slopes is arranged perpendicular to the counter-lattice. Here you need to provide additional ridge boards - they are placed on both sides of the roof ridge. Also, additional boards or bars are mounted around the chimney pipe and at the joints of the roof planes to secure the valley (inward corner) or ridge element (outward corner).
• Next, wind boards are fixed to the gable sides of the roof.
• Then the brackets for the drain gutter are attached to the bottom board of the sheathing, and the gutter itself is laid.
• The cornice strip is nailed to the outer board of the sheathing.
• The next step is to secure the inner part of the valley, if it is necessary in the roof structure.
• Then you can proceed to waterproofing the chimney pipe. A tie is laid along its edges, going to the cornice - it is attached on top of the cornice strip. Next, install and sealed elements of the internal apron adjacent to the pipe.
• Having dealt with the internal additional elements that should be under the roofing material, we proceed to the installation of corrugated sheets. To pass the pipe in one or two sheets, an opening of the required size is measured and cut using electric scissors. The edges of the corrugated sheeting should cover parts of the apron attached to the sheathing and come close to the pipe. It is possible to leave a gap of 50 ÷ 70 mm.
• Next, at the junctions of the two roof sections, the outer part of the valley is fixed.
• After this, they are fixed at the highest point of the roof metal elements skate.
• The last step is to attach the windproof corner.

So, as you can see, there is nothing supernatural in laying such a roof. Having studied the sequence of work and the technology for their execution, enlisting the assistance of reliable assistants, acquiring required material Having prepared the tools, you can safely begin covering the roof with corrugated sheets on your own.

And at the end of the publication - a useful video with the intricacies of the process of installing a roof from corrugated sheets.

Video: important nuances when laying corrugated sheets as a roof

In the article I will tell you how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting, starting from the selection of material and ending with the technology of attaching it to the sheathing. The information provided will help you plan your work correctly to achieve the desired result with minimal costs time, effort and money.

Advantages and disadvantages

Using profiled metal sheets as roofing material has a number of advantages:

1. Strength and durability. Given that correct selection and installation in compliance with all requirements, corrugated roofing can last 30 years or more without requiring repairs.
2. Resistance to external influences. When producing high-quality corrugated sheets, the steel base of each sheet is covered with several layers of anti-corrosion coatings. Thanks to this, the metal does not rust and retains its strength.
3. Light weight. The weight of corrugated sheeting is about 6 - 8 kg/m2, which allows you to lift it onto the roof without the use of special equipment. The second plus is the low load on the load-bearing structures (rafters, sheathing), which allows savings through the use of thinner beams and boards.

1. Fire safety. The corrugated sheet not only does not burn itself, but also prevents the spread of fire.
2. Price. If we exclude the cheapest slate, then covering the roof with corrugated sheeting can confidently be called the most affordable method. If you want to save money, choose corrugated sheets.

Now about the cons:

1. Corrosion on the cut. As I noted above, cut edges and places where we screw screws are potential sources of corrosion. State metal base These areas need to be monitored and measures taken at the first signs of rust.

1. Heating in the sun. IN summer period a roof made of corrugated sheets heats up very much, so the temperature in the under-roof space and in the room itself also increases. This problem is partially solved by installing thermal insulation with inside roof slopes, but only partially.
2. Disgusting soundproofing. For me, this is the most serious drawback, significantly limiting the use of corrugated sheeting as a roofing material for residential buildings. You can hear everything - rain, hail, wind, birds, even cats! Again, a layer of thermal insulation using porous materials partially absorbs sound, but does not completely eliminate it.

The controversial point is the appearance. On the one hand, corrugated roofing looks neat, and in some ways even ascetic. On the other hand, corrugated sheeting cannot be confused with other roofing material, so the roof will still look “cheap” to some extent. That is, there is not much difference for a garage or barn, but the design of a residential building may suffer.

What do you need for work?

Materials

Be that as it may, very often the positive properties of the profiled sheet outweigh, and it is chosen as the main roofing material.

To install a corrugated roof with your own hands you will need:

1. The corrugated sheet itself has a base thickness of 0.5 to 0.7 mm. For roofing work, grades from C8 - C21 to C44 - H60 are suitable. The lower the planned load on the roof, the smaller the profile size you can choose.
2. Additional elements made of profiled metal. This should include internal and external valleys, end strips, drip edges, linings for masking the joint with the walls, etc.

1. Lumber for creating sheathing - beams 40x40 or boards 100x30 mm.
2. Board materials (plywood, OSB board) 15 mm thick to create a continuous sheathing.
3. Roofing waterproofing membranes.
4. Thermal insulation materials (most often mineral fiber-based boards).

1. Sealing tapes for filling cavities around the perimeter of the roof. It is best to purchase a tape made of porous material, the profile of which matches the profile of the roofing sheet.
2. Fasteners – nails and self-tapping screws for installing sheathing, self-tapping screws for corrugated sheeting.

TO additional materials I would consider a vapor barrier membrane designed for installation on the inside of an insulated slope. It is also worth purchasing an antiseptic impregnation for wood, which we will use to treat both the sheathing parts.

Tools

To properly cover the roof with corrugated sheeting with your own hands, we will need the following tools:

1. Wood saw for cutting beams, boards and plywood for sheathing.
2. Manual or electric metal shears for cutting corrugated sheets.

Under no circumstances should you cut corrugated sheets with a grinder. When in contact with a grinding or trimming disc, the metal heats up, which leads to the destruction of the anti-corrosion coating. As a result, the roof will rust very intensively at the cutting line.

1. Screwdriver for quickly tightening screws.
2. Construction stapler.
3. Knife for cutting waterproofing membranes.

1. Knife or saw for insulation.
2. Measuring tools – plumb line, level, tape measure.

To increase productivity and ensure safety, it is important to properly organize work at height. You need to move along the roof slopes only with a safety harness securely attached to the ridge area. It is advisable to carry tools in a special belt with pockets.

Another tip is to fence off the area adjacent to the roofing work site. This way you will reduce the risk of injury to others, because both tools and roofing parts tend to fall at the most inopportune moment.

Preparation

Calculation

In order to properly cover the roof, it is necessary to perform at least an approximate calculation of the load-bearing capacity of the sheathing. If you make it too thin, the corrugated sheeting will “play” under its own weight, which will ultimately lead to weakening of the fasteners and the appearance of leaks.

On the other hand, too dense lathing requires the use of a large amount of material. Hence the increase in weight load and the rise in cost of the structure as a whole.

To pick up optimal step lathing, you can use the table:

The calculation is given for sparse lathing, for which boards 100 x 30 mm or beams with a cross section of 40 x 40 or 50 x 50 mm are used.

When installing continuous sheathing, plywood with a thickness of 15 mm or more is used. It is permissible to use oriented strand board (OSB) with similar thickness and load-bearing capacity.

When calculating the volume of purchases of materials for installing the sheathing, you need to keep in mind that not only the width and length of the roof slope are taken into account. It is also necessary to take into account the extension of the roof (horizontal projection beyond the gable) and overhang (lateral projection beyond the front of the mauerlat). In these areas, sheathing is also being done for the roof, so the purchase of material must be carried out taking into account the dimensions.

Thermal and waterproofing

Before covering roof with corrugated sheets, we need to compensate for its shortcomings - poor heat and sound insulation properties. In addition, additional waterproofing should be provided: no matter how well we install the profiled sheet, there will still be leaks.

We carry out work on the formation of the “roofing pie” according to the following scheme:

1. We lay slabs of thermal insulation material between the rafters - mineral wool thickness from 75 to 150 mm. Cover the insulation from the inside vapor barrier membrane and fix it with a counter-lattice - cross beams or plywood sheathing.

1. WITH outside we install vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane. The vapor permeability of the material is very important, since it preserves the natural ventilation of the roof and prevents condensation from accumulating in the thermal insulation layer.

1. When installing waterproofing, we roll out the membrane rolls horizontally, going down from the ridge to the eaves. We fix the material on each rafter with several galvanized staples.

1. An important parameter is the size of the overlap of the material: the smaller the slope, the wider it should be double layer at the junction of the rolls. The optimal overlap for slopes with a slope of 30 degrees or more is 150 mm, for slopes with a slope from 12 - 15 to 25 -28 degrees - at least 200 - 250 mm.
2. To minimize the risk of water leakage, you can use double-sided adhesive tape (almost every waterproofing manufacturer has it in its line of materials). We tape all the joints, securely fixing them and protecting them from displacement.

Lathing

To cover the roof according to all the rules, we need to install reliable sheathing.

It’s easy to do this based on the above calculation:

1. For the sheathing we take boards and beams with suitable dimensions. Optimal wood species are pine, spruce and larch. The maximum permissible humidity is 18%, if more, it is advisable to dry the wood in the shade, avoiding cracking.

1. Before purchasing, we check the parts for knots, rot and wormholes. The appearance of the wood is not so important, but strength comes first. So if there are defects, it is better to refuse the purchase.
2. It is also worth checking the geometry of the timber/board. Perfect smooth surface We don’t need it, so there’s no point in buying expensive jointed materials. Another thing is curvature: the smoother the parts are, the better the frame will be, and the less effort we will spend on its installation.

1. Even if the tree looks flawless on the outside, we treat it with antiseptics. It is advisable to take a non-washable composition with a high content of active ingredients. The disadvantage of such products is the coloring of the wood, but in our case this disadvantage does not play a role.

An additional advantage in processing may be a reduction in the flammability of wood. This effect is ensured, for example, by the use of the Senezh FireBio Prof composition or similar solutions.

Now - the installation of the supporting structure itself:

1. First, we fill the ends of the rafters with thicker boards - the so-called cornice supports. You can place a thin metal corner – a drip edge – under the cornice support. It starts under waterproofing material and ensures effective hardening of condensate from the wall surface.
2. We lay the sheathing elements perpendicular to the rafters. For fixation, we use either nails or phosphated wood screws.

1. We attach the timber to the rafters at one point, and the board at at least two. By fixing the board at the top and bottom, we prevent its deformation: if you install a nail in the middle or only on one side, then a fairly wide element can “go undulating.”
2. During installation, we control the geometry of the sheathing. The permissible deviation is about 2 mm per 1 m. For control, it is convenient to use two levels: long - 2 m, and short - 50-60 cm.

1. When installing sheathing on a wide roof, it becomes necessary to join the beams. According to the rules, joining is performed only on the rafters: the parts are trimmed, each edge is secured with separate fasteners, after which a connecting bracket is hammered into both boards.

1. Finally, gutter fastenings can be installed on the bottom of the slopes. We fix these parts either to the cornice board or to the end beam, which is pressed onto the rafters themselves.

So, the future roof is insulated, waterproofing is laid and bearing structures mounted. Now all we have to do is actually cover the roof, attaching sheets of corrugated sheets and additional elements to it.

Roofing

Installation of corrugated sheets

We begin fixing the roofing material on the sheathing with our own hands by installing additional elements located under the corrugated sheeting. As a rule, these are lower valleys, which must be fixed at the junction of the planes to protect them from leakage, and cornice strips.

When this operation is completed, you can begin covering the main surface of the slopes.

The instructions assume work in the following sequence:

1. The starting point is the lower left corner of the ramp. If you start here, you can most effectively overlap the sheets by overlapping the capillary grooves.

1. To begin with, we lay several sheets, align them with the gable overhang and eaves overhang, and secure each with one self-tapping screw. We install a sealing tape along the end of the corrugated sheeting, bridging the gap between the sheathing and the corrugated parts of the material.
2. When laying, the leftmost wave of the sheet is superimposed on the rightmost wave of the already laid one. This overlap is mandatory because it ensures no leakage..

1. After several parts have been laid (I usually install three sheets in the first row from the bottom, and two in the second), we begin the final alignment with fixation. For fastening we use self-tapping screws with a hexagonal head and a sealing washer.
2. When we independently cover the roof with corrugated sheeting, it is extremely important to control the tightening forces of the fasteners. The neoprene gasket should be pressed against the metal, but not crushed or distorted. With proper compression, the material self-vulcanizes, and the fastening site becomes almost airtight.

1. When working with thin (0.5 -0.6 mm) corrugated sheeting, it is also important to avoid deflection at the fastening point. The consequences of over-tightening will be the formation of dents in which water will be retained as it drains, and sooner or later will leak inside.
2. Another trick is pre-drilling. If a profiled sheet with a thickness of 0.6 - 0.7 mm is used for the roof, then at the fastening points it is worth drilling holes whose diameter will be approximately 0.1 - 0.2 mm larger diameter working part of the self-tapping screw. This will make installation easier and, in addition, ensure the mobility of the roof during temperature deformations.

Adjusting the sheet length using circular saw(not Bulgarians!)

The installation method described in this section is used when roofing a roof with piece corrugated sheeting of a fixed width. At the same time, it is now possible to order material whose width will be equal to the width of the roof itself - in this case, you will not have to waste time joining individual sheets.

Installation of additional parts

Installing corrugated sheets on slopes is the most labor-intensive, but not the most painstaking part of the work.

After completing this stage, we need to install additional elements:

1. At the junction of the rafters on the ridge beam, we install the board on the edge and fix it metal corners. We place a ridge profile on top of the board, which we fasten with self-tapping screws.

We glue a porous sealant tape under the side strips of the ridge profile, which will ensure the tightness of this unit.

1. We install end strips along the gables. The vertical part of the plank is attached to the end board of the sheathing, the horizontal part covers the outermost wave of corrugated sheeting and is fixed on it. You can also place sealing tape under the end strip.
Upper valley
1. Joints between corrugated sheets and chimneys, vertical wall and other surfaces we cover with corner parts - the abutment strip.
2. We must place sealing material under the plank, and fasten the part itself with elongated self-tapping screws that reach the sheathing or rafters. The contact point between the plank and the wall can be additionally sealed liquid composition or butyl tape.



Conclusion

A roof made of corrugated sheets, constructed according to this scheme, will provide effective protection of the house from moisture for many years. To understand the technology in more detail, it is worth studying the video in this article. In addition, questions regarding difficult stages of work can be asked in the comments.

Any craftsman with basic construction skills, with a basic set of tools, even without much experience, can cover a roof with corrugated sheeting with his own hands. Therefore, this type of roofing is most in demand in private housing construction, as well as in the construction of outbuildings and outbuildings. Corrugated sheeting is inexpensive and lasts 25-50 years, making it a long-term leader among roofing materials in its price category. With the help of this available material can be mounted and gable roof, and more complex designs. The technology for laying corrugated sheeting on the roof is quite simple; we will discuss it in detail in this article.

Do-it-yourself corrugated roofing - common constructive solution for a small private house, garage, shed or shed, which is popular among developers due to the excellent performance properties of the material. Corrugated sheets are made from galvanized steel using the cold rolling method. During the production process, the surface is given a relief, which gives greater horizontal rigidity, and then cut into sheets of standard shape. The popularity of corrugated sheets is explained by the following factors:

• Effective drainage of water from the slope. Installation of corrugated sheeting improves drainage from the roof surface, thanks to gutters directed along the slope. Covering with corrugated sheeting helps solve the problem of snow and liquid retention on roofs with a small slope.
• Versatility. The instructions recommend installing corrugated sheets if the roof has a slope of 12 to 60 degrees. Almost all roofing structures used fall into this range.
• A light weight. One square meter of corrugated sheet weighs 5-7 kg; covering with this material does not increase the load on the rafter frame and foundation of the structure.
• Resistance to mechanical stress. Corrugated sheet, thanks a large number vertical stiffeners, has high strength, it can withstand without deformation snow load up to 1-1.5 m, as well as the weight of a person.
• Resistance to corrosion, fungus, mold and others biological factors destruction. Installation of corrugated sheeting solves the waterproofing problem, does not collapse under the influence of moisture, and lasts for many years.
• Easy installation. You can cover the roof with corrugated sheets yourself; any worker with basic construction skills and a basic set of tools can handle this task.
• Affordable price. A sheet of corrugated sheets costs 400-600 rubles, so covering the roof with this material will not cost that much.

Note! Before covering the roof with corrugated sheeting, you need to choose a high-quality, durable material. Corrugated sheets are produced painted and unpainted. The paint or polymer coating that gives color to the material also performs protective function: It prevents moisture penetration and corrosion. However, if the paint layer and galvanic coating are damaged, the corrugated sheeting begins to quickly rust. The most reliable is considered to be a profiled sheet made of galvanized steel coated with pural.

Design Features

Novice craftsmen often do not know how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting, so they fall victim to a lack of experience. Poor installation reduces waterproofing qualities roofing structure, reduces the service life of the material, leading to the formation of corrosion or leaks. Corrugated sheeting can be laid on pitched roofs with a slope of 12 degrees. Experienced craftsmen can make a roof from this material, even if the slope has a smaller angle of inclination. The corrugated sheeting is laid with a vertical overlap of 2 waves, and the vertical joints are treated with silicone-based sealant.

Important! Before covering the roof with corrugated sheeting, you can purchase the material directly from the manufacturer, cut into sheets along the length of the slope. This allows installation with minimum quantity joints, which increases the service life and waterproofing qualities of the coating, and also saves money by using less material.

Before covering the roof with corrugated sheets with your own hands, you need to study the technology of working with this material. Manufacturers usually provide detailed instructions describing the sequence in which installation should be performed. A corrugated roofing is a multi-layer cake, which, in addition to the finishing coating, includes waterproofing and vapor barrier. Working with corrugated sheets has the following features:

1. Before covering the roof with corrugated sheeting, you need to make a lath. If the distance between the rafter legs does not exceed 100 cm, you can use 30x100 mm bars. If the step exceeds 100 cm, the cross-section of the sheathing bars must be increased.
2. Before laying the corrugated board, you need to make a sheathing. For this material, you can lay a lattice sheathing with a step between the bars of 30 cm. In the places of valleys and ribs, a reinforced solid base is installed.
3. Before you begin installing the roof covering, it is necessary to coat all wooden elements of the rafter frame with an antiseptic preparation, and also treat it with a fire-retarding compound.

Many homeowners do not know how to properly cover a roof with corrugated sheeting, and therefore make annoying mistakes that affect the operation of the structure. A major defect is the lack of vapor barrier and waterproofing in the roofing pie. Corrugated sheeting has high thermal conductivity, which leads to condensation of water vapor on the elements of the rafter frame.

Corrugated sheet laying technology

Most homeowners who want to reduce construction costs install the roofing themselves, but do not have a clear idea of ​​how to properly cover the roof with corrugated sheeting. As a result of an unprofessional approach, the roof may leak, become covered with ice, and the rafter frame begins to rot and collapse. To avoid these negative consequences, you must strictly follow the technology for laying corrugated sheets. Instructions for constructing a roof from this material are as follows:

Important! Profiled steel with a polymer protective coating deteriorates from thermal influences, so do not use a grinder or welding to cut the material. Installation is carried out strictly in a cold manner, and the sections are treated with a special primer that prevents the formation of corrosion.

Video instruction

Every mistake made during roofing will inevitably make itself felt in the future.Samplelemscan beinsignificant, eliminatetheirNotwill belabor, but suchmeetsvery rarely. More oftenTotalariseaverage and sometimes criticaldamageroofing system.Developersmustunderstand, which is to preventerrorsgets lostmuchlesstime than forliquidationtheirconsequences. This is not to mention the material side of the matter. The cost of repairs in some cases may exceed the cost of building a new roof, and this does not take into account possibleeliminating internal damagepremises.

The quality, durability and reliability of a corrugated roof depends on several factors:

• accuracy of compliance with recommended technologies, building codes and rules. Only experienced roofers can make changes to generally accepted technologies and only to increase the stability of the rafter system;

  

• experience and responsibility of roofers. You can’t take on complex work if even the most difficult ones have not been covered in practice. simple roofs General recommendation– inexperienced developers can only cover the roofs of personal outbuildings and utility buildings with corrugated sheets. It’s better not to do residential work; this work should be done by professionals. There is no need to follow the example of the heroes of numerous videos that describe the successful first experience of roofing. None of them publish the results of their work after 3-5 years, and for the most part they are very sad;

  

• quality and completeness of roofing materials. Very important factor, requires a careful approach. The fact is that you can ruin the roof of the most expensive metal profile for roofing, or you can make a very high-quality coating from cheap corrugated sheets for wall finishing. There are several construction secrets on how to save financial costs and at the same time increase the tightness and durability of the roof; we will talk about them a little below.

  

  Important factors are the quality and completeness of roofing materials

The coating technology must take into account the characteristics of the roof: the type of rafter system, the purpose of the building, the type of attic space.

Prices for corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheet

To make the right decision, you need to have objective information about profiled sheets and the impact of each characteristic on performance properties. All profiled sheets are conditionally divided into three large groups: for vertical structures(wall), universal (for walls and roofs) and roofing. This is a very conditional classification; if you have certain knowledge, then each type of corrugated sheet can be used for any of the above purposes.

Sheets option	Impact on performance
	The linear parameters of the sheets are regulated by the provisions of GOST 24045-94. For roofing sheets (N) and universal sheets (NS), the length is a multiple of 250 mm for 3–12 m. For wall (C) lengths are 2.4–12 m, a multiple of 300 mm. Width 800–900 mm. How longer length sheet, the fewer overlaps, the more airtight the roof. But we must keep in mind that working with very long profiled sheets is quite difficult due to their large windage. In addition, there are risks of sharp bends and fractures, and in these places anti-corrosion coatings are damaged and oxidation processes are significantly accelerated. For the roof of a house, it is recommended to buy sheets no more than three meters long. Another advantage of long sheets is minimizing material loss by reducing the number of overlaps.
	The thickness of sheets for roofing (H) is 0.6–1.0 mm, for universal use (NS) 0.6–0.8 mm, and for walls (C) 0.6–0.7 mm. The physical parameters of bending resistance at the same thickness are adjusted due to various types profiles in height and width, the presence of additional elements to increase mechanical strength. Please note that standard sheet metal thicknesses cannot be less than 0.6mm. In fact, modern manufacturers produce profiled sheets with a thickness of 0.45 mm. In order to avoid problems, they prescribe special products for their substandard products. technical specifications, approve them in higher organizations and sell non-standard products to consumers quite officially and legally.
	The profile height of roofing sheets is 57–114mm, universal 35–44mm and wall sheets 10–21mm. You can immediately see the difference between the requirements of the standard and the actual technical parameters of the profiled sheets. For some manufacturers, the profile height starts from a few millimeters. Why do manufacturers do this? The lower the profile height, the less the metal is deformed. This means that it is possible to degrade the quality of the metal (use cheap alloys), the thickness of galvanization and paint coating. The small thickness of the metal and the height of the profile should be compensated by the rafter system - reduce the pitch of the slats or make it continuous. Experienced builders they claim that such a roof will cost much less than buying thick profiled roofing sheets that are very high-quality in all respects.
	The highest quality sheets have modern aluminum-silicon anti-corrosion coatings; electrolytic zinc protection is allowed. The mass of zinc on both sides must be at least 414 g, aluminum zinc at least 170 g. each on one square meter. Pay the most important attention to this parameter. The service life of the roof depends 80% on it.
	The type and thickness of the paint coating is regulated by the provisions of GOST 30246; in some cases, the parameters may change after agreement with consumers. The service life depends on the quality of the paint coating by approximately 15%. We do not recommend choosing matte and rough paints. The fact is that dust accumulates faster on such surfaces and is not completely washed away by rainwater. As a result, after a few years, mosses begin to grow on the roof, their roots penetrate into the thickness of the paint and destroy it. Water gets into the microcracks with all the negative consequences.

Unfortunately, theseimportantdata cannot be obtained frommarkingssheets.It indicates only the letter conditional classassignment identification (C, NS or N), profile height, usable width and thickness of the metal sheet.Eg,S15-800-0.6.Race informationis encrypted as follows- Withshadow sheet withprofile height 15mm, useful width 800mm and thicknessmetal 0.6mm.

Corrugated sheet S-15 roofing and wall (useful width 1120 mm)

Other very important technical parameters haveon certificates of conformity,Andx alwaysneed todemand fromseller.

An experienced roofer can roughly determine the thickness of the sheet by touch, sometimes micrometers are used for this.But this way you can find outbto the general meaningnno, but measure itseparately the thickness of the metal,tsinca coveringI can use a coat of paintonlyin specializedlaboratoriesIX.As we mentioned above, these are the parameters I provideTmain influence on qualitymaterialroofing, don’t be shy about asking for documents. If sellers for some reason do not show the technical passport of the sheets, thenObetter byAndWithkick othersthe shops.

Preparatory activities

The roofing process will be quick and successful if you prepare for it in advance. What should be done for this?

1. Count the number of sheets. If the roof is an ordinary gable roof, then the calculation is simple. Find out the length and width of the slopes. The length needs to be increased by about 30 cm - the amount of overhang of the sheets. Calculate the roof area. Divide the resulting value by the effective width and length of the sheet; they are indicated in the designation of the material. A complex hip roof is divided into separate slopes, and the area of ​​each is calculated taking into account its geometry. Such roofs require an increased supply of sheets, in most cases it amounts to 10% of the total area. The more complex the roof, the greater the amount of waste.
   Important. If the roof area is calculated in meters, then the sheet area should be converted into the same units.

   

2. Find out the number of metal end (wind), cornice and ridge strips. You need to remember that each joint should overlap by about 10 cm and buy elements with a margin of length. For a complex roof, you need to have valley strips (internal and external).

   

3. If there are square or round chimneys on the roof, then you should buy special ones elements for sealing joints at junctions.

   

   Prices for roofing master flash

   Roofing master flash

4. Count the number of elements and decide on nomenclature of the drainage system. Some elements need to be fixed before installing the sheets; doing this after covering the roof is very difficult; in some cases, already fixed sheets will have to be dismantled. Any dismantling has negative consequences, you should remember this and plan your actions several steps ahead.

   

5. When installing a warm roof, you need to buy thermal insulation materials, steam and wind protection.

   

Of course, you need to prepare the tools and check their technical condition.

List of necessary tools and devices

To work, you will need measuring tools and devices, metal scissors, a screwdriver, a hammer, a marker, and a stapler. If you need to cut a large footage of sheets, then many roofers use grinders with metal discs.

Prices for popular models of angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders

You should not pay attention to warnings about the appearance of rust at the cut site, as written by incompetent “specialists” who have never done anything themselves. Why?

1. Firstly, the cut is never located in open space; it is always hidden under whole sheets or additional roofing elements. It is dry and oxidizes very slowly.
2. Secondly, working with an angle grinder is much faster and easier than using hand scissors. This is very important, especially if, due to the characteristics of the roof, you have to trim a lot of sheets.
3. Thirdly, cutting with scissors is very inconvenient - your hands and arms rest against the metal, it bends, and your fingers hurt. It is especially difficult to work across or at an angle to the waves of a metal profile.
4. Fourthly, the overlap of sections is at least 10 cm; even if it starts to rust, it will take several decades for such an area to deteriorate. This is much more than a coverage guarantee.
5. Fifthly, if concerns remain, the cut area can be covered with paint.

Step-by-step instructionpreparation for installationprofessional sheets

Let's consider the most difficult option roof arrangement - warm.

If the width of the rafter legs is not sufficient for insulation, then slats must be nailed to the rafters in such a way that not only the insulation layer fits, but also there is at least 4-5 cm between it and the wind barrier for ventilation.

Otherwise, the natural processes of getting rid of excess moisture will be disrupted, the mineral wool will become damp and lose its original heat-saving properties. But this is not all the negative consequences. Wet cotton wool has an extremely negative effect on all nearby wooden structures rafter system. If the lumber was not treated with antiseptics before the construction of the rafter system began, then this error must be corrected.

Practical advice. The quality of impregnation is much improved if color is added to the solution. It allows you to detect omissions and eliminate deficiencies.

First you should make an insulating cake; it consists of several layers.

Step 1. Nail the vapor barrier from the inside with a stapler, do not forget to overlap by about 10 cm. The joints must be glued double-sided tape. As a vapor barrier, you can use expensive modern materials or ordinary cheap plastic film. Physical effect the same, and the money savings are noticeable. The film has another advantage - big sizes. There are sleeves with a width of 3 m, if you cut them, it turns out to be 6 m. Such wide material speeds up the installation process and minimizes the number of joints. The fewer joints, the more effective protection mineral wool from steam.

Step 2. Nail to the rafters horizontal slats. They will hold mineral wool and provide natural ventilation between the roof and finishing attic walls.

Step 3. Lay mineral wool. You can use both rolled and pressed types. Each has its own installation characteristics, but this does not affect the performance indicators.

Step 4. Nail on the windbreak. You can find different names for this layer: waterproofing, hydrovapor protection, membrane protection, etc. But the correct name is windproofing.

It performs two tasks.

The first one prevents warm air from escaping from the wool, otherwise the effectiveness of roof insulation is sharply reduced. Mineral wool has many positive characteristics. There are, unfortunately, three negative ones. The first is the cost, there is nothing you can do about it. The second is airflow. Mineral wool easily allows air to pass through and almost does not interfere natural ventilation. And it carries warm air into the atmosphere and supplies fresh cold air. The third is a negative reaction to increased relative humidity.

The second task of wind protection is to prevent an increase in the moisture content of the wool; with increasing humidity, the thermal conductivity increases sharply. A modern membrane is used that allows steam to pass through, but does not allow the wind to remove warm air and condensate to accumulate back into the mineral wool.

Advice! To make it easier to attach the boards, you should use a template - a piece of slats. The template is placed between two horizontal boards before fixing the top one

With this the insulation cake is complete, you can nail the gable boards and begin laying the roof.

Prices for windproof membranes

Hydro-windproof membrane

InWithTinstallation instructionsprofessional sheets

The main thing here is to lay the first row correctly. Subsequently, all sheets are aligned according to it. We have already said that the presence of markup greatly simplifies the process, so don’t be lazy to do it.

Step 1. Attach the gutter fixing brackets. Before this, you should install a metal strip and screw the brackets to it.

The ebb can be made from sheet steel. The steel strip is bent with hammer blows

Finished plank (low cast)

Fixed metal strip

The slope is about a centimeter per linear meter. It is not recommended to do more. Why? If you make a slope of 2 cm, then on a slope 10 m long the difference in height will be 20 cm. This is very bad - the gutter will be too low from the edge of the sheets, rainwater will flow past him. How to properly prepare the mount? Lay all the parts on a flat area, mark a difference of 10 cm between the first and last (for our example), draw an angle line through all the brackets.

Now all that remains is to carefully bend the metal strip along this line. To avoid mixing up the brackets during installation, number the elements.

Step 2. Screw the curtain rods. It's not only decorative elements, they protect the under-roof space from slanting rain and snow. Do not forget to overlap approximately 10 cm.

Important. The minimum dimensions for overlaps must be strictly maintained, due to this the boards are protected from moisture. If the overlaps are insufficient, water will get into the gap and wet the board. And it takes a very long time to dry under the plank, which increases the risk of fungal diseases and rot.

Step 3. Lift the first sheet onto the sheathing and accurately install it according to the marks.

Practical advice. In order to facilitate the installation process of profiled sheets and make it safe, it is recommended to make a special ladder. It is fixed to the ridge with two legs and allows you to safely move along the slope to screw in self-tapping screws.

Place the self-tapping screw in the center so that the sheet can be rotated slightly. The position has been selected - add a few more screws, but do not forget to leave free space to overlap the waves of the profiled sheet. You can start installation from any side; alignment is done along the eaves. To ensure this, it is recommended to pull the thread along the line of the future installation of the gutter.

Step 4. Lift the second sheet of corrugated board, put it in place and check the position. If everything is normal, then you can record both. Self-tapping screws should be screwed in in a checkerboard pattern at the rate of 10 pieces. per 1m2.

Important. It is recommended to start the second row with half a sheet, as a result of which the four corners will not converge at one point. This rule is mandatory for thick sheets; thin sheets do not need to be displaced. The decision is made by the foreman on the spot.

Self-tapping screws are screwed through the wave, if the thickness is approximately 0.8-1.0 m, then it is possible through two. But roofs are very rarely covered with such thick profiled sheets; they are too expensive. At the ridge and at the cornice, every deflection is recorded.

Practical advice. The work will be much easier if you fix the wind strips immediately after attaching the first row of sheets, and finish the ridge as the worker moves along the slope. Moving on already installed profiled sheets is difficult and unsafe. In addition, there is a high probability of mechanical damage.

Each chimney is finished, the sheets are cut. Special metal strips are used to seal joints and decorate.

All additional elements must be purchased simultaneously with the sheets and from the same manufacturer. This ensures that the ridge, windshield and eaves trims have the same appearance.

If everything is done slowly, responsibly and taking into account the recommendations, then a roof made of profiled sheets will serve for a long time and reliably.

Video - Installation of corrugated sheets

It is quite easy to build a high-quality and durable roof from corrugated sheets yourself. It is only important to know what materials you need to take, how to properly attach the sheets to the sheathing and how to protect the internal under-roof space from dampness.

And we will pay special attention to additional elements that need to be bypassed in full compliance with technology. So, do your own corrugated roofing - step by step!

Preparing material: avoiding first mistakes

Once you have produced accurate calculations your roof, you can order profiled sheets. But, if you purchased corrugated sheeting, but for some reason its installation will have to be postponed (for example, prolonged rains), then store the sheets without removing the original packaging, on a flat surface and indoors. Additionally, beams must be placed under the sheets in increments of 50 cm.

Shift and move such roofing material carefully, holding the edges along the length and especially avoiding creases and deflections of the sheets. You also need to move the sheets carefully, because... modern polymer coating is especially sensitive to mechanical damage.

How to cut this material with abrasive cutting tools: fragments from the wheel will scratch, and significant heating will occur at the cutting site. But, if you had to work this way, then immediately cover all the damage with repair paint.

Fortunately, the technology for constructing a roof made from modern corrugated sheets will allow all work to be carried out in the warm season, from April to September, and you will not have to store the sheets for a long time.

Installation of corrugated sheeting: step-by-step master classes

Let's first deal with the in construction terms so that you don’t have to search the Internet for the meaning of each new word:

You will be surprised, but the same (at first glance) material needs to be laid in different ways. It's all about the manufacturers - everyone gives their own recommendations for installation, and they are really important. Because corrugated sheets from different companies are demanding in terms of their conditions, even if the differences are small. Therefore, carefully study the instructions supplied with the roofing material and do not completely trust hired workers who “have eaten the dog on such roofs” and are trying to do everything their own way.

Here is a simple example of how the installation of corrugated sheeting with a thickness of less than 0.7 cm and more durable differs:

And when working with such material, a wooden scaffold is no longer needed:

Imagine that a hired team will trample their feet on thin corrugated sheeting, because before that they “installed exactly the same roof for your neighbor” and “nothing was bent”? And now it will bend, and how, to which the would-be workers will declare that “that’s how it was.”

But, speaking in general, then main indicator High-quality roof installation means tightness. After all, the roof serves precisely this purpose, so that everyone is protected from moisture and cold. internal structures. And even an inconspicuous gap can become a serious problem: dampness, smudges, quickly deteriorating materials and fungus. That is why we will now analyze in detail all the subtle points.

A little about safety

The technology of metal roofing itself is not so complicated, but it is important not to damage the roofing covering during its installation. After all, although this material looks durable and tough, you still need to be careful when working with it:

1. Walk on the finished metal profile flooring in soft shoes.
2. Try to step only on the concave waves of the sheets and preferably directly on the screws.
3. So, you can only step on your toes on the roof.
4. Always place your foot parallel to the slope.
5. There should only be one leg in one notch.

Construction of sheathing for corrugated sheets

The lathing for roof installation is either continuous, if the slope is small, or sparse, in increments of up to 5 meters. But with what step the roof sheathing is needed depends on how thick the corrugated sheets are:

Waterproofing and windproofing

Next, we think about how to properly make a roof pie. The modern market produces a lot of waterproofing materials, the most different types and properties. We even have a whole separate article about this. But in general, focus on the following program of action:

• Step 1. So, secure the selected waterproofing material to the rafters. To do this, take the most ordinary construction stapler, but before installation, be sure to check whether you are laying the film or membrane on the wrong side. Glue the panels together with special tape.
• Step 2. After this, we punch slats along the rafters (take a thickness of at least 2 cm) and thus form the ventilation gap necessary for ventilation.
• Step 3. Now we lay the roofing material along this top sheathing.

Here's what it all looks like in real life:

We select high-quality screws

The consumption of self-tapping screws when attaching corrugated sheets is usually about 6 pieces per 1 square meter. Suitable screws are 4.8 by 28-35 mm, as for wood, and for additional elements - 4.8 by 50 or 60 mm. As a tool, purchase a screwdriver with a special attachment or a cordless electric drill from the same manufacturers of roofing materials.

Special self-tapping screws for fastening corrugated sheets are indispensable, because... This is the only way to ensure:

• Fully waterproof roof.
• High connection strength.
• Minimal risk of injury to the coating during fastening, which means no corrosion in the future.

The highest quality and most reliable self-tapping screws for corrugated sheets are sold by the same suppliers that deal with sheets. If possible, use zinc-plated carbon or stainless steel screws. perfect option. But when purchasing, still carefully inspect all sealing washers.

How to properly attach corrugated sheets?

You can tell that you have secured the screw correctly by the metal washer - about 1 mm of the rubber gasket will protrude from it.

Screws must be screwed into the roofing material strictly perpendicularly, directly into the deflection of the vertical wave near the corrugated sheeting. Although there is a lot of controversy about this in the construction community, and each method has its own advantages. Thus, a self-tapping screw in the lower wave creates a more reliable fastening, and in the upper wave, rainwater has much less chance of getting into the under-roof space.

At the eave and ridge, you need to drive screws into the camber through the wave, and in the middle of the sheet into each sheathing board. In total you will need about 5-8 pieces per square meter.

What tools will be needed for installation?

Note that the construction of the roof itself from corrugated sheets is really within the power of even a person with little knowledge of construction. Of course, there are roofing materials that only experienced professionals can install correctly. But in the case of modern corrugated sheeting, we can reassure you: you can handle it yourself!

Fortunately, there is nothing complicated here. Thanks to the long length of the sheets, the roof slopes overlap without additional transverse joints, and the material itself can be easily cut and adjusted in shape. You will need a minimum of tools for this task:

So, corrugated sheeting can be laid on slopes of almost any inclination angle; it is only important to correctly calculate the amount of transverse overlap:

• 150-200 mm for roofs with 15-30°.
• 200 mm for a slope of 14°.
• 100-150° at large angles.

For fastening you will need self-tapping screws with special sealing washers:

In what order should the sheets be laid?

Many roofers install corrugated sheets this way: starting from the bottom row, first lay 4-5 sheets, and each of them is fixed with only one screw in the center. After this, the sheets are connected to each other with 4.8x19 mm self-tapping screws, which are installed in increments of 500 mm. Now they check how aligned the sheets are with the roof overhang, and finally fix the roofing material. Here's the scheme:

But, if you are working on the roof for the first time, to avoid distortion, attach the corrugated sheets according to the same pattern, but in this order:

• Step 1. Install the first sheet on the sheathing, and fasten it with one screw at the very ridge.
• Step 2. We lay the second sheet so that the lower edges of both sheets below form one perfectly straight line.
• Step 3. We fix the overlap along the top of the wave under the very first transverse fold.
• Step 4. We evaluate by eye how correctly the sheets are joined. Uneven? Then lift one sheet from the other, tilt it slightly from bottom to top, and again join fold by fold. Secure everything with self-tapping screws along the top of the waves.
• Step 5. So work with 3-4 sheets, carefully align them with the cornice and then install the remaining sheets.

The corrugated sheeting must be mounted to the base of the roof so that the edge offset is 40 mm from the eaves. This is necessary in order to leave a gap of optimal size on the ridge and the ventilation of the roof is not impaired. By the way, if profiled sheets have a drainage groove, then each subsequent one should overlap the groove of the previous one.

Remember: when laying, you cannot step on the ridge of the sheets - they will bend. In general, for such work, installers wear soft shoes. That's all the subtleties!

Working with additional elements

Now let’s move on to our numerous additional elements. All of them are usually made standard length: for a roof with a polymer coating – 2 meters, for a galvanized roof – 2.5 meters. They complete it themselves roofing. The seal, which is traditionally placed between the roofing material and additional elements, allows them to fit more tightly to the sheets, further preventing moisture from entering under the roof and allowing it to “breathe.”

But to decorate ridges, cornices and other complex structures, you need to purchase special elements that are offered by the same manufacturer whose roofing material you purchased:

The additional elements must be fastened with the same 4.8 roofing screws as the base material. The only difference is that the metal roof is fastened with self-tapping screws 28-35 mm long, and the elements are fastened with self-tapping screws 50-60 mm long.

Valley and valley overlay

Now let’s look at such a mysterious name as “endova”. The valley and valley overlay are additional elements that duplicate each other, which are mounted at the internal convergence points of two differently directed slopes. The valley must be secured under the corrugated sheet.

Therefore, if the roof has a complex shape, with internal surface joints, then take a valley and a valley overlay as an additional element. This way you will give your roof a more neat and aesthetic appearance, additionally protecting complex transitions from moisture getting inside.

Aprons for pipes

The most critical stage of the roof is the removal of pipes. Such pipes consist of two conventional parts - the lower one, which runs along the roof profile, and the upper one, the pipe itself. And, if the through passage of the pipe is on the lower part of the roof, it makes sense to install a snow block above the passage.

For a sewer ventilation system, an uninsulated pipe of about 10 cm in diameter, without a head, is passed through the roof. And for radon they take the same pipe, but with a head. Remember that these pipes cannot be connected to ordinary ventilation pipes, because... for those, insulated elements with a diameter of 125 mm are already used.

The pipe itself can be installed both before the installation of the roof begins and after completion. If you chose the second option, then you will need to cut a hole in the finished roof for the pipe and temporarily cover it with some material. During the finishing work, pipe cuttings will need to be made from galvanized steel aprons or more modern materials like Wakaflex.

Here's a good tutorial on how to do it:

Dormer window

Now we are working with dormer window. So, we cut the corrugated sheet into two parts at the lower end of the groove, put bottom sheet, then the bottom gutter strip, and only then the top roofing sheet.

Snow holder

The snow holder is mounted in places where there is a risk of snow rolling down. For corrugated sheeting, this is usually the second line at a distance of 30-40 cm from the eaves. For installation, use 4.8x50 self-tapping screws through 1-2 waves of the profile.

External and internal corner

If the slope changes its direction, then additional finishing elements such as internal and outside corner and transition. Their main task is to create maximum tightness and give the joint of sheets an aesthetic appearance.

Adjacency

An abutment is an additional element that serves as a rim for a chimney or to protect the junction of the roof and the wall:

Cornice, end and joint strips

And here are your instructions:

1. Install the end strips from the side of the roof overhang, towards the ridge.
2. Just cut off the excess part of the end strip.
3. Secure the plank to the end board and the corrugated sheets in the ridge with screws in increments of up to 1 meter. If you did everything right, end strip will cover at least one wave of the roofing profile.
4. Attach the end strip with wood screws 4.8x60 or 4.8x50, directly to wooden base. Leave the step from 30 to 50 cm and make sure that the end strip completely covers the end of the outer wave of corrugated board.

Now we proceed to the installation of the joint connecting strip. Its length is 2 m, and the overlap of the planks cannot be less than 1 meter. The joint strip is taken 2 meters long, and the two strips are attached to each other with an overlap of at least 1 meter. The additional element should be attached to the wall in a groove, or hide everything under the wall sheathing.

The main purpose of the eaves strip is to protect the under-roof space from precipitation, especially in rain with strong winds. And the lower the roof slope, the more necessary this additional element is. But you need to attach the cornice strip before the corrugated sheets. Overlap – 100 mm.

Ridge installation

After all the roofing material has been laid, we attach the ridge. We line the junction of the ridge and the roof with a sealant in advance. Ridge elements for trapezoidal roofing sheets are usually smooth. It is advisable to place ventilated seals between them and the profiled sheets, and for small corrugations - special ridge seals.

We fasten the ridge with self-tapping screws on both sides at a distance of 2-3 waves. It is important that the ridge itself covers all the first screws that hold the sheets of roofing material. Ridge strips should overlap each other with an overlap of at least 1 meter, and fasten the elements to the roofing sheets using self-drilling screws in increments of up to 3 meters.

An important point: the smaller the angle of inclination of the roof, the wider the ridge itself should be. So, the most standard sizes are 140x140 mm or 200x200 mm.

But today it is more fashionable and rational to order a figured skate, which comes in two parameters: 110x30x110 mm and 145x50x145 mm. There are also special types of ridge for complex roofing, when multidirectional slopes come together.

Maintenance of corrugated roofing

Snow on a roof made of corrugated sheets lingers quite a bit, and therefore there is no need to clean it. But, if you need to carry out certain renovation work, then arm yourself with small plastic shovels that will not leave scratches.

Caring for a roof made of corrugated sheets is quite simple: the rain itself will wash away all the dirt and dust, and you only have to clean the gutters once a year and drainage systems from clogged fallen leaves.

If for some reason more serious cleaning is necessary, then use plain water and a hose with pressure up to 50 bar. Detergents You can only use those designed for painted surfaces, and White Spirit will help you deal with stubborn stains.

As you can see, nothing complicated!