How to attach drywall to the ceiling. Plasterboard ceiling: find out how to properly attach sheets

Drywall has won a place of honor in the market building materials how great finishing material. It can be used to level various surfaces. This is how suspended ceilings made of plasterboard sheets (GKL) appeared. They quickly gained popularity. There is no need to plaster such a ceiling. Question about mounting methods plasterboard sheets has not yet been fully resolved.

Sheet plasterboard is very easy to use facing material. It is used for wall decoration, from it, various partitions, decorative fireplaces and many other things. It is worth considering in more detail the arrangement of a ceiling made of this material. Knowing how to attach drywall to the ceiling, you can move on to more complex structures.

For the installation of suspended ceilings, special ceiling gypsum plasterboards are produced. If there are none on sale, you can buy any, but their thickness should not exceed 9.5 mm.

What you need to have for work

Attaching drywall to the ceiling will require the following tools and materials:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• dowels with a diameter of 6 mm;
• screws for metal and wood;
• level;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• metal scissors;
• U-shaped or string suspensions;
• metal profiles UD and CD;
• crab connector;
• plasterboard sheets up to 9.5 mm thick;
• plane;
• painting knife;
• putty.

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Preparatory work

There should be a gap between the main ceiling and the drywall. It can be different in size, but not less than 25 mm. This is the thickness of the profiles used when installing gypsum boards.

The work begins with marking. Its scheme is as follows:

1. You need to put a mark in the corner on the wall at a distance of 25 mm from the ceiling. Perform this operation in the remaining corners. A blue cord stretches between the marks. This device is called a chockline. He pulls back and suddenly lets go. The thread hits the wall and leaves a reference line. Its horizontalness is checked by a level. All walls are marked in a similar way. The resulting line indicates the lower level of the frame. Instead of a chokeline, you can use a laser level.
2. You need to attach UD metal profiles along the line on the wall so that their lower part coincides with this line. For fastening, plastic dowels and self-tapping screws are used. The diameter of the dowels is 6 mm, the screws are 4-5 mm. Their length depends on the material of the wall and its density. The finished profiles are applied to the wall along the line. A felt-tip pen marks the attachment points. They are drilled out and the profile is attached in the usual way.
3. 2 opposite walls are marked at 50 cm intervals. Through these points, lines are drawn on the ceiling using a chokeline. This is a marking for attaching U-shaped hangers. They are fastened through the internal holes of the hangers using the same dowels and screws that were used on the wall. Suspensions holding frame profiles are attached to the ceiling every 40-50 cm. If suspended ceiling will be at a distance of up to 10 cm from the main one, then ordinary U-shaped hangers can be used. As the distance increases, it will be necessary to use string or spring suspensions instead of U-shaped suspensions.
4. To strengthen the resulting frame, you need to install transverse jumpers every 40-50 cm. They are fastened using crab connectors, which are put on the guide profiles and fixed with self-tapping screws. Jumpers cut from the CD profile are inserted into them.
5. The CD profiles are cut to length and inserted into the UD profiles. They should be cut 4-5 mm shorter than the desired length. The CD profile is fastened to hangers and UD profiles with small self-tapping screws. We must not forget about electric wires. They are hidden in a corrugated metal or plastic cable channel.

Instead of metal profiles, you can use a lathing made of smooth, dry wooden blocks. no different from fastening metal profiles.

Sometimes drywall is attached to the ceiling using a solution consisting of building gypsum with the addition of bone glue in an amount of 2%. This mass is applied to the entire surface of the gypsum board, and the sheet is pressed tightly against the ceiling. Before gluing the gypsum board, the ceiling is coated with a primer, which provides better adhesion to the glue.

Fastening plasterboard to the ceiling is possible to a frame made of metal profiles, to wooden sheathing, directly to the main ceiling. These are all currently known methods.

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Attaching drywall to the frame

To ensure that the gypsum boards adhere exactly to the wall, you can insert the first sheet into the profile and see if the angle is even.

After this, the sheet is applied close to the ceiling and a line is drawn along its edge, which will mark the middle of the profile.

If the joint cannot be made without gaps, you need to trim the drywall along its short side. GCRs are cut to the right size very simple. The cutting line is drawn on the material with a pencil. Use a sharp knife to cut through the cardboard layer. A metal profile is placed under the sheet, an even straight strip exactly under the cut. The sheet is broken, the bottom layer of cardboard is cut along the break line with the same sharp knife. The edge is finished with a special plane.

Next comes the stage of directly attaching the gypsum board to the frame made of metal profiles. First you need to attach whole sheets. To do this, 2-3 people lift the sheet and press it against the frame. 1 person supports the sheet, the other aligns it. If there is another person as an assistant, he gives instructions on leveling and installing the gypsum board. Each sheet of drywall usually requires about 60 self-tapping screws intended for metal. Their length is 25 mm. They are screwed into metal profiles in increments of 30 cm.

The self-tapping screw is screwed in so that its head goes deep into the gypsum board to a depth of about a millimeter, but does not tear the cardboard. To make work easier, there is a special nozzle with a lampshade. It controls the depth of recessing of the screw head in the gypsum board. In the right places, the lighting wires are brought out through holes cut for this purpose in the drywall. To install a chandelier or heavier lamp, an anchor fastener is inserted into the desired location on the main ceiling.

After all the sheets of drywall are screwed to the surface of the ceiling, you need to putty them. This work begins with filling with putty the recesses left by the screws. The seams between the sheets are taped with sickle tape and puttied. After the seams and screw holes have dried, they begin to putty the entire surface of the ceiling. Next, the ceiling is sanded with sandpaper or sanding mesh and subjected to final finishing.

Attaching plasterboard sheets to the ceiling is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to do everything slowly, very carefully and carefully. Even the smallest mistake can lead to redoing the entire work and waste of material.

Finishing ceilings with plasterboard - affordable way obtaining a flat and smooth ceiling surface. In this case, you will not have to waste time and money on preliminary leveling of the base; the sheets will reliably hide floor defects. For the work to be successful, you need to know how to attach drywall to the ceiling, and what methods exist for this.

Why drywall

Plasterboard ceilings have long been widespread in interior decoration due to the following advantages:

1. used to create even and smooth surfaces;
2. mask wiring and communications;
3. have heat and sound insulation;
4. suitable for finishing any room, regardless of operating conditions and humidity level. The main thing is to choose the appropriate gypsum board marking;
5. are mounted different ways– on a frame base or special binders;
6. with the help of drywall you can implement even the most complex design projects– multi-tiered structures, niches, arches, bends, any shapes, etc.

The chosen method of attaching the material depends on what function the plasterboard structure will perform:

• frame made of metal profile - reliably masks utility lines, ventilation, and wiring under the ceiling. Correct assembly frame consists of several stages: applying markings, installing guides and ceiling profiles, suspensions. The advantage is the possibility of constructing complex multi-level structures, the disadvantage is the loss of height in the room;
• frame made of wooden slats. Installation is carried out by analogy with the construction of a metal frame base. Wooden structure will take less height from the room, but it is also less resistant to adverse factors;
• using a frameless method, gypsum plasterboard sheets are attached directly to the ceiling. This does not reduce the height of the room, but the preparation of the base ceiling must be carried out carefully.

All three methods have advantages and disadvantages. When deciding on the method of fastening gypsum boards, take into account the purpose of the room and the climatic conditions of the room. For example, in a bathroom it is better to install a metal frame base, since high humidity has a negative effect on wood. The same applies to adhesive compositions used for fastening sheets.

Attaching plasterboard to the ceiling without a frame requires careful preparation of the rough surface:

• remove the previous finish;
• prime the ceiling, then level it with putty;
• After the composition has hardened, the surface is again covered with a layer of primer.

If there are unevenness and differences in the ceiling, you cannot do without installing a metal or wooden frame.

You cannot attach gypsum boards to the ceiling using glue if:

• the ceiling is made of wood. Natural material will quickly lose its shape under the influence of moisture or sudden temperature fluctuations;
• the surface is wet or painted with oil paint.

GKL sheets are glued to concrete ceilings only after notches are made on the surface.

Fastening gypsum boards without preliminary construction of a frame is possible using special adhesive materials. For example, Perfix glue. The work is carried out in the following order:

• the composition, whose consistency resembles thick sour cream, is applied to a sheet of drywall using a spatula;
• apply the gypsum board to the ceiling and press it. To provide reliable fastening, the sheet is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. Drywall is laid in a checkerboard pattern;
• The evenness of the material is checked using a building level. To correct defects, use a hammer with a rubberized base, which is used to tap the sheets along the edges and in the middle;

For finishing use any gypsum board. If you are covering ceilings in a bathroom or kitchen, choose plasterboard marked moisture-resistant.

Instead of professional glue, homemade gypsum mastic is used, which is prepared as follows:

• 0.5 kg of dry bone glue is poured into 3 liters cold water, leave to swell for 10-12 hours;
• when the glue swells, add 1 kg of lime dough, mix the mass until the lumps are completely dissolved;
• simmer the mixture over low heat for 5-6 hours, stirring constantly;
• add 10 liters of water to the mass, stir the glue again with a construction mixer.

The result is a reliable composition that is capable of gluing plasterboard to any surface. Glue is applied to the sheets along the edges and in the middle, and stripes are applied at intervals of 40 cm from each other. The material is fastened, aligned along the corner, then gradually moved along the entire ceiling surface.

As a result of attaching plasterboard to the ceiling using mounting foam, the surface will become smooth and the space of the room will be preserved. Installation of sheets is carried out as follows:

1. the sheet is applied to the ceiling surface, and holes for dowels are drilled through the drywall every 50 cm;
2. on the back side of the sheet, 10 cm from the holes, glue pieces of foam rubber, which will act as a kind of level and regulate the evenness of the skin;
3. spacer parts of dowels are inserted into the ceiling holes;
4. the sheets are again applied to the ceiling, secured with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into dowels. Washers are installed under the heads of the self-tapping screws;
5. The level sets the position of the drywall. Thanks to the foam pads between the sheets and ceiling surface gaps form;
6. holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled next to each self-tapping screw, into which mounting foam is pumped;
7. using self-tapping screws and a hammer with a rubberized tip, level the general plane;
8. after 24 hours, unscrew the screws, remove the washers, then screw the fasteners back into the gypsum board sheets. This way the design will be reliable.

To begin with, it is better to practice on one sheet of plasterboard, leave it for 24 hours, then check the quality of the work done. If everything is in order, you can cover the entire ceiling in this way. The drywall should be held firmly and not wobble from side to side. If there are defects, it is necessary to determine the reason for their occurrence.

Possible factors include:

• the sheet is swollen because a lot of foam was pumped in;
• movement - screws and dowels are not sufficiently fastened to the ceiling;
• low quality foam;
• the sheet has fallen off - this covering option is not suitable for a particular surface; it is better to choose another method of installing plasterboard sheets.

You don’t have to make foam pads, but immediately apply polyurethane foam to the gypsum board sheet. Then you will be able to control the uniformity of the distribution of the composition. The foam is applied to the back side of the drywall in “snakes” in uniform stripes. After 10-15 minutes, when the composition begins to expand, the sheet is applied to the ceiling and fixed with self-tapping screws.

The ceiling surface must be flat. Otherwise, in those places where the distance from the base ceiling to the gypsum board sheet is smaller, the glue will exert more pressure, and vice versa. As a result, the adhesive strength will be uneven.

The advantage of this method of installing drywall is that you do not need to carefully prepare the base for work. It is enough to delete old finishing and prime the ceiling.

Work on arranging the frame begins with installation load-bearing structure of two types of profile and suspension system. But first, markings are applied, on which the evenness of the future ceiling depends, in the following order:

1. determined by the number and types of lighting fixtures that will be installed in the decorative ceiling. If there are no built-in lamps, the frame is placed as close as possible to the base base;
2. in the room, by measuring, they find the lower corner, step back from it down to the required distance, and put a mark;
3. project the point onto the remaining angles using laser level;
4. The resulting marks are connected to each other with an upholstery cord in a straight line outlining the perimeter of the room. A mismatch between the lines will cause the structure to skew;
5. then on the ceiling, axes are marked for attaching the ceiling profile in increments of 60 cm. From the wall to the first line, 30 cm are retreated;
6. along the drawn lines, dots are placed at the places where the suspensions are attached, also every 60 cm;
7. Transverse lines are drawn at the same distance from each other to secure the profile.

As a result of marking on the ceiling surface, a pattern consisting of squares with equal sides is obtained.

You need to screw the UD guide profile to the line drawn along the perimeter of the room so that the lower part of the plank coincides with the horizontal. WITH reverse side sealing tape is placed on the profile. For fastening, plastic dummy dowels with a diameter of 60 mm and self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4-5 mm are used.

Next, hangers are mounted along the lines to the ceiling. It is better to fasten the elements to the internal holes, and not to the “ears”, since due to the weight of the plasterboard sheets, the suspension attached to the “ears” can be pulled back by several millimeters, which will disrupt the evenness of the structure. Self-tapping screws and dowels are chosen of the same diameter as for fastening the guide profiles.

On a note! IN ceilings from concrete slabs there are voids. To prevent fasteners from falling into voids, it is necessary to use special flared or impact dowels for attaching hangers, and choose stronger screws.

The CD is cut to the required length, and the edges are inserted into guide strips screwed around the perimeter. To ensure that the profile fits freely between the walls, it is made 1 cm shorter than the distance from wall to wall. This leaves 5mm of free space on each edge. Under the ceiling, the ceiling profile is inserted into the hangers, but not twisted.

The next step is to check the evenness of the structure using a nylon thread stretched under the frame. Adjust the height of the future decorative ceiling suspensions. Each CD profile is leveled, screwed to the hangers with metal screws, and the protruding ends of the hangers are bent to the sides. In the same way, the ceiling profiles are fastened to the guides.

On final stage When arranging the frame, wires are brought to the installation sites of the devices, a few centimeters of cable are left free for connection to the lamps, the remaining ones are laid in protective corrugations, which are attached to the ceiling.

The frame was mounted in such a way that the edges of two adjacent sheets of drywall fell on one CD strip. Therefore, the first sheet is not attached to the wall on a guide profile, but at a distance of 30 cm - on the ceiling. The remaining space is sheathed with cut to required sizes pieces of gypsum board at the end of facing work.

Before installation, the drywall is brought into the room, laid in a horizontal position on a flat surface so that the material takes on its characteristic shape and gets used to the climatic conditions of the room.

Then the material is cut out. First, an incision is made on the surface of the sheet on the reverse side. stationery knife, then turn it over to the other side and break it.

The edges of the sheets are chamfered using a plane, maintaining an inclination angle of 45° if the seams will be sealed using sickle tape. If the tape is not used, the angle of inclination is 22.5°. The edges are cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper.

Holes for lighting fixtures are cut before attaching the sheets to the frame. To do this, use a special cutter and drill.

Drywall is fastened in a checkerboard pattern using metal screws. The fasteners are screwed in increments of 25 cm, the caps are deepened into the material by 3-5 mm. The gypsum board should fit as tightly as possible to the frame base. As soon as the sheathing is completed, the wires are brought out under the lamps.

On a note! In order not to damage the drywall and avoid breaking through the paper, use special attachments for gypsum boards. They are equipped with lampshades, which, when tightening the screws, rest against the sheets and regulate the depth of recessing of the fastener head.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• seams and recesses from screw heads are primed with a deep penetration compound;
• the putty is diluted according to the instructions indicated on the package;
• Using a narrow spatula, the composition is applied to the joints of adjacent sheets. When the mixture has set a little, sealing tape is applied to the seams;
• Apply another layer of putty mixture on top of the tape and immediately fill in the recesses from the screw heads;
• in 12 hours thin layer putties cover the entire surface decorative design and leave to harden completely for 24 hours;
• At the end of the designated time, the ceiling is cleaned with a construction float and a layer of primer is applied.

(methods of laying gypsum boards)

If you have to work independently without the help of assistants, you can cut the sheets of drywall into pieces small sizes. But this method is suitable for small rooms. In spacious rooms it is better to mount whole sheets of material. For this purpose they use following methods that will help you cope with the work alone and raise the sheet to the ceiling:

• from wooden beams and poles, two supports are constructed that will hold the gypsum board sheet under the ceiling. In this case, the length of the pole is 8-10 cm greater than the distance from the floor to the ceiling.

The device is placed with the transverse crossbar up so that there is free space between the beam and the ceiling surface for the gypsum board sheet to fit in. Drywall is inserted into it at one edge. Using the second device, the sheet is gradually raised to the ceiling and supported;

• a frame is knocked together from wooden beams, the length is slightly less than the length of the room. Hinges under the doors are screwed to one edge. The hinges are attached under the metal frame. The result is that one end of the homemade frame will be under the ceiling, and the other on the floor. The sheet is laid on the frame and lifted to the frame, fixing the device on the other side with a support. Next, attach the drywall with self-tapping screws to the frame base;
• a device is constructed from thick bars and a sheet of thick plywood or MDF panels, appearance resembling an ironing board. By moving the legs, you can adjust the height of the structure. The sheet is laid on a wide base and raised to the ceiling surface.

You can spend money and purchase a special mobile platform on wheels. But such a device is best used in very large rooms, and for one-time work it is not advisable to buy it.

How much does it cost to install plasterboard ceilings?

Cost of construction plasterboard construction depends on several factors:

• complexity of the work (number of levels, presence of decorative projections or niches, arches, etc.);
• number of lighting devices;
• number of layers of cladding.

The average price for installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling will cost the customer approximately 500-600 rubles per 1 m², two-level design simple shapes - 700-800 rubles per 1 m², complex curved shapes will cost about 800-100 rubles per 1 m².

Although glue method installation is quick and cheap, it is better to spend time and money installing metal carcass under drywall. This design is more reliable, which significantly affects the service life of the decorative ceiling.

Plasterboard ceiling, installation sequence, video instructions

Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) are a very convenient and profitable facing material, giving an unsurpassed result among building materials in terms of price-quality ratio. Most often, the ceiling is made of plasterboard, and if you do not know how to attach drywall to the ceiling correctly, then this page is at your service.

In addition, here is a video on this topic that will help you clearly understand the intricacies of installation.

Installation of plasterboard ceilings

Ceiling markings

Ceiling markings

Installation of a metal frame

• Along the line marked around the perimeter, screw the UD profile so that its lower part exactly coincides with the line.
  For fastening, it is best to use a plastic dummy dowel with a diameter of 6 mm and a screw with a diameter of 4-5 mm. The length of the screw and dowel will depend on the density of the wall.

• Attach U-shaped hangers along the lines marked on the ceiling. To attach the pawn, it is better to use internal holes rather than ears, since the suspension attached to the ears will be pulled back a couple of millimeters under the weight of the gypsum board, and this will disrupt the level of the plane.
  The diameter of the dowels and screws needed is the same as for the wall.

Advice. IN concrete floors there are voids and in order to prevent the dowel from falling into them, you need to use flared dowels or, if there are none, impact dowels.

But the factory impact dowel-screw ratio is too weak, so the screw should be replaced with a thicker one.

• Now cut the CD profiles to the required length and insert them into the UD profiles installed around the perimeter.
  Cut the profile 5 mm shorter than the absolute distance between the walls, and it will fit freely.
• In order to level the CD profiles, you need to stretch a thread under them, and in order to prevent these same profiles from pulling the thread, bend each middle suspension under the profile, pulling it above the level of the plane.
• Stretch the nylon thread from wall to wall, across the CD profiles, securing it to the UD profiles with small self-tapping screws.

• You align each profile along a stretched thread, fastening it to the hangers with small self-tapping screws for plasterboard profiles.
  You fasten the CD profile to the UD profile in the same way. Bend the protruding ends of the hangers to the sides.
• Disconnect all the electrical wires needed for lighting and hide them in a corrugated cable channel. Next, we will look at how to attach drywall to the ceiling, or more precisely, to a metal frame.

Installation of plasterboard sheets

Advice. Since you need to attach drywall without tearing through the paper on the sheet, use a drywall attachment for this.

It is equipped with a special lampshade, which, when tightened, rests against the sheet, controlling the depth of recessing of the cap.

• Do not forget to route wires through the plasterboard for lighting in the right places. If, when installing drywall, some sheets did not meet by a few millimeters, do not be upset - these cracks will be filled with putty or fugenfüller.

• We looked at how to attach drywall, and now we need to prepare it for putty. To do this, all screws that are screwed in are sealed with putty.

• The seams between the plasterboard sheets can be glued with adhesive mesh tape and then puttied (see).
  You can also seal these seams with fugenfüller, which is also a putty, but when hardened it has great hardness and strength.
• After the sealed seams and screws have dried, you can begin to putty the drywall.

Conclusion

We looked at some of the nuances of such arrangement as plasterboard on the ceiling - how to attach it correctly and how to prepare it for finishing. To install more complex multi-level and figured ceilings, you need to learn how to make smooth single-level ceilings in the living room, bedroom, understanding the structure of which will allow you to go further and assemble more complex structures.

With the advent of the construction industry, the problem of ceiling repair and design began to be solved much faster, better and cheaper. There are many variations of this type of ceiling, ranging from complex and beautiful geometric shapes and ending with the installation of acrylic.
Design and decoration of acrylic stretch ceiling with plasterboard Attaching plasterboard to the ceiling can be done in several ways:

• on a frame made of;
• on a frame made of wooden slats;
• in cases where the ceiling is wooden.

Before the beginning installation work suspended ceiling, detailed drawings and list should be drawn up necessary materials. The basis of the drawings includes the placement of a lamp or partition, and so on. If there is or in the room, then this must be included in the drawing, since the ceiling frame will be assembled based on the loads.

First of all, you need to decide on the mounting method. If the choice is frame mounting made of a metal profile, then you should purchase the profile itself. Its optimal size is considered to be 60 by 27 millimeters.

Existing types and profile dimensions for mounting a plasterboard ceiling

You also need to add to the list, the dimensions of which are selected taking into account the main profile. Next, you need to purchase ones that will be screwed into the tree or concrete ceiling. They will also be needed for a concrete ceiling. In case of wooden ceiling You can use a length of 3.2 cm.

In order to secure the profile to the hangers, “Bedbug” screws are used. You also need to purchase it with a special washer. They will fasten the guides to the suspended profiles without attaching them to the ceiling. For a metal frame you will need metal screws 25 millimeters long. In some varieties and shapes, there are ceilings and spokes that hold the frame together at the corners.


The main material is plasterboard sheets with standard sizes 1.20 by 2.5 meters. For finishing the ceiling, sheets with a thickness of 9 millimeters are usually used.

You can also find 12 mm thick plasterboard on sale, but it is usually installed on partitions and walls. If ceiling insulation is required, then mineral wool must be added to the list of materials.

On a note! GCR is divided into two categories: non-moisture resistant and non-moisture resistant. The first is used in rooms with high humidity, for example, bathrooms and kitchens, and the second in ordinary rooms without sudden temperature fluctuations.

It is possible to attach plasterboard to a ceiling without a metal frame in cases where the material of the rough ceiling consists of wood or SIP panels. This method is considered quite new and is gradually becoming popular.

The process of installing drywall sheets using glue However, it should be noted that the strength of the structure directly depends on the ceiling. In cases where the ceiling base is made of wood, the drywall is secured with screws. You can also use polyurethane foam, which is applied pointwise to the plasterboard and attached to the ceiling.

Read also

Installation figured ceiling from plasterboard

Adhesive installation method

The adhesive method of installing drywall is used in the following cases:

• too curved surface;
• plane material: wooden or SIP panels;
• manufacturing decorative overlays from gypsum board;
• quick installation and hiding of cracks.

The technology for installing drywall with glue is not considered the simplest and requires the selection of high-quality adhesive mixtures. Typically, this method is used when there is a task, as well as on or partitions.


Special glue is applied to the pre-. In order to speed up adhesion to the material, the glue should stick slightly on the surface, only then should the gypsum sheet be applied.

On a note! If you decide to use glue method fastening the gypsum boards, you must remember to lay down the chandeliers before installation.

If the task is to glue sheets of drywall to a concrete or brick surface, then you should follow some rules:

1. The brick wall must be free of dust.
2. The adhesive composition should penetrate between the bricks, thereby enhancing the bonding.
3. The plastered surface should not peel off from the wall, and there should be no voids between the plaster and the masonry.
4. Adhesive fastening to concrete ceilings is not recommended.

Mounted metal frame for mounting drywall. Please note that when installing gypsum board on a surface with glue, it must be pressed firmly to avoid bending of the seams and other consequences. In order to determine whether the sheet is installed evenly, you can use a long, even strip.

How to properly attach plasterboard to a framed ceiling

Methods of attaching drywall to the ceiling can differ significantly from each other, depending on its shape and complexity of the design. You should consider the classic installation scheme of a single-level ceiling without a partition or other reinforcements. Drywall can be attached to two types of frames, this wooden slats or metal profile. The two options should be considered separately.

Metal carcass

For installation profile frame First of all, you need to make markings for the guide profiles that are placed on the walls. For suspensions, you can make markings on the ceiling. In order to find out how much the plasterboard will recede from the ceiling, you should find its lowest point using a laser level. 4 centimeters are taken from the lowest point. Three centimeters are spent on the thickness of the frame, and one centimeter is left for the convenience of attaching the profile. Next, you can use a painter's cord and mark colored lines for the guide profile and hangers.

After marking is completed, you need to attach the guides along horizontal lines to the wall. They are fastened using dowel nails in increments of 15-20 centimeters.

An example of installing drywall to a metal frame. Next, holes are drilled on the marked lines of the ceiling and hangers are attached, after which suspended profiles are inserted into the guides and fixed with metal screws. And it is also worth considering the routing of cables above the frame.

If this is not done, the joint will hang in the air and eventually crack. Crabs can be used to connect the jumpers.

Important! If you plan to mount the chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling or partition, then you should strengthen the frame in additional places fastenings

Wooden frame

This is done to save space when low ceilings. However, it should be taken into account that such installation is allowed in rooms with normal humidity. You also need to know that if it is planned, then in these places the frame must be reinforced with additional slats. Before installing sheets of drywall, a fastening pattern is marked on it, which depends on the distance between the frame slats.

Scheme for attaching drywall to wooden frame Next, the drywall is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws. The length of the screws depends on the thickness of the frame board. The fastening pitch may vary, but on average should not exceed 15 centimeters.

There are many in various ways fastening drywall with your own hands, but not everyone is suitable for installing sheets on the ceiling surface. Sheets of plasterboard can be easily screwed or glued to the surface of the walls, but gluing plasterboard sheets to the ceiling with your own hands is inconvenient and even dangerous, because under the influence of vibrations and under the weight of the sheets, the adhesive layer can crack.

And this can lead to the collapse of the ceiling structure. Only two methods are used, using which it is possible to install plasterboard in sheets on the ceiling surface:

• by mounting on a supporting profile frame;

• using screws directly into the ceiling.

Technology for self-installation of drywall by screwing sheets of material directly to the surface of the base ceiling.

The method of screwing plasterboard sheets directly to the ceiling surface can only be used on ceilings made of wood. This method is simpler and does not require preliminary installation of a supporting frame. But it can only be used on wooden ceilings.

The surface of the base ceiling must be completely flat, otherwise the new surface will not have a flat surface. Working with sheet plasterboard is easier and more convenient for two people.

Tools required for installing a plasterboard ceiling by attaching directly to the ceiling surface:

• cordless screwdriver with a set of attachments (you can use a network one, but this is inconvenient);
• construction knife - for cutting sheets to the required size;
• marker;
• simple pencil;
• construction ruler;
• construction square;
• self-tapping screws for drywall and wood;
• dowel - nails;
• building level;
• marking cord.

When screwing plasterboard sheets to the ceiling surface, use wood screws with a length of 7 to 10 cm. It is more convenient to do this work while standing on a table. It is advisable to select the height of the table in such a way that, standing on it, you can lightly touch the surface of the ceiling with your hands.

You need to prepare two lengths of rods for work in advance equal to height premises. They will be used as supports for the plasterboard sheet. It is convenient to make supports from a metal profile. They should be similar in shape to a mop, the length of the handle being equal to the height of the room and with a crossbar of 50-60 cm. The rods must be installed against the wall in the place where the installation will be carried out, so as not to interfere with the lifting of the plasterboard sheet.

For installation, you need to lift the sheet of drywall with your hands above your head. At the same time, holding it on your head with one hand, use the other hand to substitute the prepared support. Pressed against the ceiling with supports on both sides, the sheet will not fall. You can align the sheet more accurately by loosening the supports. Then you can screw it on. Fastening a plasterboard ceiling without a supporting frame and on a profile frame differs in the length of the screws used. When attaching plasterboard sheets directly to the ceiling surface, you need to rely on the thickness of the sheet, so self-tapping screws 7-10 cm long are used for installation.

A method of attaching plasterboard to the ceiling by screwing it to a supporting frame.

When marking the secondary guide profiles of the frame, it is necessary to take into account the static load, which will depend on the thickness of the sheet and the type of material plasterboard boards. To perform this type of drywall fastening, you will need the same tools that were used when attaching sheets directly to the surface of the base ceiling.

Materials for installing plasterboard sheets to the ceiling surface:

• plasterboard in sheets;
• for mounting the frame: ceiling hangers, guides and main profiles, connecting elements (couplings, crabs and brackets);
• insulating materials;
• soundproofing tape;
• tape for sealing seams;
• gypsum putty mixture;
• perforated metal corner.

Apply markings yourself.

Marking involves drawing a horizontal line on the surface of the walls, which, when installing the frame, will correspond to the boundary of the outer surface of the suspended ceiling, as well as marking the places where the wall profile will be located, the main and secondary guide profiles of the frame.

When drawing marking lines for the secondary guide profiles of the frame, it is necessary to take into account the static load on the structure, which will depend on the thickness of the sheet and the type of material of the plasterboard boards.

Installation of a supporting frame on the ceiling with your own hands.

Assembling the frame includes the following work:

• drilling holes for dowels - nails in the base ceiling;
• fastening the dowel - with nails of ceiling hangers;

• installation of main and supporting profiles.

There are several types of metal profile frames, which differ from each other mainly only in the method of attaching the main profiles to the supporting profiles and the type of ceiling suspensions used.

Two main schemes are usually used:

• secondary profile guides are located perpendicular to the main profiles on different heights and then connected to each other using U-shaped connectors. This scheme is used when there is no great need to fight to save height in the room. As profile sections, the secondary frame guides are placed between the main profiles and oriented perpendicular to them in the same horizontal plane.

• The profiles are connected using X-shaped couplings. This method is used when the height of the room needs to be saved.

Photo of a frame with crab connectors for attaching plasterboard sheets to the ceiling.

Installation of the structure begins with the preparation of all holes on the surface of the base ceiling. Then, using dowels, the installation of ceiling suspensions is carried out. For this purpose, use a hammer drill, screwdriver and hammer.

The design of ceiling suspensions should allow adjustment of the height of the main ceiling profiles and thereby achieve a perfectly horizontally aligned surface of the mounted suspended ceiling.

Photo of hangers for the frame when attaching plasterboard sheets to the ceiling.

Then along the walls of the room, according to pre-applied markings, guide profiles are installed in a horizontal plane. To obtain the maximum possible sound insulation, it is advisable to install these profiles on foam rubber or polyurethane foam self-adhesive soundproofing tape. When the tape is glued, the profiles need to be fixed to the walls using a hammer drill.

Installation of dowels and nails should be done correctly using a hammer (plastic part), and the screw should be screwed into it with a screwdriver or screwdriver. The guide metal profiles have already punched holes designed to accommodate dowels and nails. If necessary, drill additional holes.

Each profile must be secured to the surface using at least three dowels. It is convenient to reduce the length of the profile by using metal cutting scissors.

The method of fastening depends on the design of the supporting frame. Then you need to start installing the ceiling profiles, which need to be inserted into the grooves of the ceiling hangers and guide profiles mounted on the wall. If necessary, the profile can be lengthened by splicing two profile sections, twisting them with self-tapping screws and using a CD connector. After that, secondary frame profiles are attached to the main profiles.

The choice of fastening method depends on the chosen design of the supporting frame:

• when connecting profiles at different horizontal levels, connecting U-shaped brackets are used, which are inserted into grooves on the load-bearing lower profiles of the frame;
• To connect frame profiles at one horizontal level, special couplings are used X-shape, which are assigned to secondary frame profiles screws for metal.

After completing the installation, you need to use building level check the horizontal position of the frame and, if necessary, adjust the height of the ceiling suspensions. Insulating Additional materials are used when it is necessary to manufacture a structure with increased sound insulation or properties.

The installation of these materials is carried out after laying all communications on the ceiling (electrical wiring, ventilation, alarm system cables, etc.).

Do-it-yourself installation of plasterboard sheets on the ceiling.

To install frames with a complex surface shape, it is necessary to use a specially curved profile or make a frame from straight standard profiles mounted on curvilinearly cut plasterboard sheets.

Sheets of drywall must be correctly marked in advance, placing them on a flat surface. smooth surface and using a square, a construction tape and a simple ruler, draw marking lines. After which the sheet of drywall is cut with a knife along the marking line.

If a knife was used to cut the sheet, then the sheet of material cut along the marking line is laid along the cut line on the edge of some surface, for example, a table, and broken, after which the cardboard is cut using a knife on the side opposite to the break.

From the edges of plasterboard sheets cut with a plane, approximately a third of the total thickness of the slab is chamfered at an angle of 45°, if the installation seams are planned to be finished using sealing tape or 2/3 of the total thickness of the slab at an inclination angle of 22.5°, if tape is not used when filling the joints.

The cut edges of the material are cleaned with a flat rasp. Round holes in plasterboard, those necessary, for example, for installing lamps, are cut out with a special cutter mounted on a drill.

Drywall sheets are mounted on a level-checked supporting frame with drywall screws, using a screwdriver and a screwdriver. In this case, you need to move sequentially from edge to edge to avoid deformation of the sheet.

It is recommended to fasten the plasterboard sheets perpendicular to the supporting guide profiles. If a second layer of drywall is applied, the installation seams between them must be shifted relative to each other. Each layer of drywall is fixed separately.

It is necessary to achieve a tight fit of the plasterboard sheet to supporting frame. During installation, the screws should be spaced from each other at a distance of 25 cm. The screws are screwed in first from the side of the U-shaped main profile, while a small groove with a thickness of approximately 1 mm should be left between adjacent plasterboard sheets.

To avoid chipping the material, screws must be placed at a distance of at least 15 mm from the edge of the cut sheet. Among other things, screws into a plasterboard sheet must be twisted strictly perpendicular to its plane, maintaining a right angle.

The depth of insertion of the screw should not be less than 10 mm. The head of the screw is inserted into the slab of material by approximately 1 mm (for convenience during subsequent puttying). At the joints of drywall, adhesive-based separating tape should be applied. In the same way, it is necessary to separate elements from plasterboard sheets from various functions, such as suspended ceilings and wall cladding.

In order to make a metal frame of complex shape, you need to use a bent plastic profile or bend the profile and drywall yourself.

Sealing plasterboard installation seams.

Before you begin sealing drywall joints, you need to complete all “wet work” in the room. And also check whether all the screws that secured the drywall to the frame are recessed and how well and firmly the drywall is fastened. Since the drywall that is sold has different kinds edges, then further work will depend on what kind of edge the drywall has.

Beveled edges of a sheet of drywall and edges that are cut at an angle of 45 degrees must be sealed with putty using tape. Semicircular edges of a sheet of drywall and edges that are cut at an angle of 22 degrees can be sealed with putty without using tape. In order to properly finish the ceiling with plasterboard you need a little patience, accurate calculations and information from professionals on the Internet.

Video on attaching plasterboard boards to the ceiling.