Hibiscus leaves have small dots. Reproduction and transplantation

Scale insects and false scale insects are sucking parasitic insects of the hemiptera family, superfamily of scale insects, feeding on cell sap. On shoots, leaves, petioles and trunks they look like tubercles or brown droplets of wax 2-5 mm in size. They are quite easily removed with a fingernail; when pressed, a yellowish thick liquid is released from them. The leaf tissues under the scale insect are often discolored. A sticky coating of insect secretions often appears on the leaves of the affected plant, as well as nearby neighboring plants. On top, pests are covered with waxy shields that protect them from the effects of contact insecticides, so systemic intestinal preparations are the most effective. The mealybug is a sucking insect, related to scale insects, of the Hemiptera family, superfamily Mealybugs. It looks like a fluffy, segmented, round insect, about 3-5 mm, which, when crushed, releases an orange liquid. Colonies look like pieces of white cotton wool in the axils of leaves and shoots. With severe damage, colonies are also located on leaves and trunks, and a sticky coating often appears on the leaves. Young individuals are small and very mobile. The waxy coating makes the bug not very susceptible to contact drugs. The most effective in the fight against mealybug are systemic drugs with intestinal action. Measures to combat scale insects, false scale insects, and mealybugs. Alcohol treatment, treatment with water-oil emulsion, replacement of the top layer of soil, main treatment with Aktara insecticide (spray with a solution of 4 g/5 l and spill the soil with a solution of 1 g/10 l, 4 times, interval 7-10 days) and auxiliary close ones treatment (after 1-2 days) with Akarin, Agravertin, Iskra-bio, Karate, Inta-vir, Fitoverm (spraying with a 1% solution, 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days). Measures to combat thrips. Hanging sticky traps of blue and yellow color. Main treatment with Aktara insecticide (spray with a solution of 4 g/5 l and spill the soil with a solution of 1 g/10 l, 4 times, interval of 7-10 days) and auxiliary close treatments with Akarin, Agravertin, Iskra-bio, Inta-vir, Fitoverm (spraying with a 1% solution, 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days, Inta-vir 8 g/10 l). If thrips is detected, all plants in the house must be treated. Processing part of the collection may not give the desired result. Measures to combat whitefly. Sticky yellow traps, main treatment with Aktara insecticide (spray with a solution of 4 g/5 l and spill soil with 1 g/10 l, 4 times, interval 7-10 days) and auxiliary close treatments with contact preparations Akarin, Agravertin, Iskra-bio , Inta-vir, Fitoverm (4 times with an interval of 7-10 days, Inta-vir 8 g/10 l). As an additional method, a thermal method can be proposed. At temperatures above +40...+45 C, insects experience thermal shock. It is necessary to heat the enclosed space with whitefly-infected insects to this temperature, which can easily be done on a glazed and sealed balcony on a sunny day or in a greenhouse.

Aphids are sucking insects from the order Hemiptera, green, brown, black, 2 mm. Forms colonies mainly on the tips of shoots. There are colonies of wingless and winged individuals. When the plant is located outdoors (on the ground) in the summer, ants that feed on the sweet secretion of aphids are often indicators of damage; droplets of sticky honeydew are also observed on the leaves.

Measures to combat aphids. Single or double treatment with Aktara (spraying at a concentration of 4 g/5 l and watering at a concentration of 1 g/10 l), Akarin, Agravertin or Iskra-bio (spraying 5-8 ml/l), or other insecticide according to the instructions. During processing, insects may not die immediately, but after a few hours. All plants in the house should be treated, since aphids move easily.

Weevils.

Weevils are shiny small beetles with a body shape ranging from elongated to round. A distinctive feature is the presence of a rostrum (an elongated part of the head). They feed on leaves, flowers, roots, sometimes being inside the plant tissues. Often, adult insects feed on the above-ground parts of plants, while their larvae feed on the roots. On indoor plants, the presence of weevils can be determined by round or semicircular holes on the leaves. You may not see the weevil right away because it is nocturnal. Systemic intestinal preparations will be the most effective. Measures to combat weevils. Manual assembly adult insects, spraying with Aktara (4 g/5 l), spilling soil with Aktara (1 g/10 l), 4-fold treatment every 7-10 days.

Spider mites are arachnid arthropods that feed on cell sap through leaf bites. Is frequent pest indoor plants. Signs of damage: on the underside of the leaf (sometimes on the top) there are small, approximately 0.5 mm, light grains (as if sprinkled with flour); in case of massive damage, a cobweb is visible. The leaf at the site of the bite becomes discolored and becomes covered with small yellow spots. Subsequently, with severe damage, the leaf falls off. The mite spreads easily through the air, is present always and everywhere, but only affects weakened plants. Strong plants that are kept in optimal conditions are able to resist mites. Risk factors include too dry air, overheating of the plant or clod of soil in the sun, drying out of the soil, dehydration (sometimes due to excessive watering, roots rot and die), improper feeding, often an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers.

Methods for controlling spider mites. For preventative purposes, it is useful to frequently spray plants with cold (namely cold) water, especially the underside of the leaf. To provide emergency assistance, you need to wash the plant in the shower and treat it with acaricides. IN room conditions It is better to use Vertimek, Fitoverm. However, these drugs do not act on all stages of the tick - at least three treatments are required at +200C after 10 days, or at +300C after 3-4 days. Treatment with Akarin, Agravertin, Neoron (4 times treatment with an interval of 7-10 days) will also help. However, if the rules of plant care are not followed, chemical treatments will only help temporarily. To completely get rid of the mite, it is necessary to provide the plant with optimal conditions. Then strong cell walls, which the tick is unable to damage. Prophylactic irradiation of medical equipment is effective ultraviolet lamp for 1.5-2 minutes weekly (to prevent the development of a new generation of individuals from eggs, which occurs precisely within 7 days). Methods of combating root-knot nematodes. It is necessary to try to remove severely damaged areas of roots. Heat treat root system and soil by immersion in a large volume of water with a temperature of +500C. From chemicals Fitoverm or Agravertin are recommended when adding dry powder to the soil, but in this form the preparations are not available for retail sale. Ecogel, which was initially considered only as an anti-stress drug, turned out to be effective against nematodes. Chitosan, which is part of Ecogel, strengthens cell walls so much that the feeding and spread of nematodes in plant tissues becomes impossible. It should be borne in mind that in some plants the presence of nodules on the roots is the norm; they should not be confused with galls. In representatives of the legume family, nitrogen-fixing bacteria live in such nodules. Water-oil emulsion is based on the effect of oil clogging insect spiracles. To give greater covering power, the oil is mixed with soap solutions. For a glass of water, take a little dishwashing detergent or soap and 2-3 tbsp. spoons of machine oil (sunflower oil is possible), all this is shaken until an emulsion is formed and applied with a cotton swab or brush to all surfaces of the plant, while it is imperative to protect the soil from drops of the emulsion. The plant is left treated for several hours, then washed thoroughly in the shower. The tolerance of the leaves to such effects should be checked.

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Hibiscus: care

Who doesn't want to have a flowering tree in their home? Especially if it is inferior in whimsicality to many of its brothers! Chinese hibiscus is called a rose for a reason; the flowers of some species really resemble a blooming pink bud. How to ensure conditions in which the plant will bloom?

Family: Malvaceae. Flowering: regularly. Growing: simple.

Hibiscus - Chinese rose (types, photos)

The first information about the plant refers to Ancient Greece. By the way, the Mediterranean climate is a favorable environment for Chinese rose! Its habitat covers countries with tropical and subtropical climates. For example, on the streets of Vietnam or Thailand, a rose feels great! The flower belongs to the mallow family, and its genus includes not only shrubs, but trees and even herbs; in total there are up to 500 different species.

In the places where it originally grew, its flowers were woven into the hair of local aborigines, perhaps that’s why the plant was nicknamed “flower beautiful women"! Initially, Chinese hibiscus was a tree up to 5 meters high, but for indoor growing breeders have developed smaller varieties. And, although the rose allows you to admire its flowers for only one day, the flowering period can last for months! And double-shaped flowers will delight you for up to three days.

Do you know?

In Malaysia, the flower received the title of national. Its five-petalled variety is a symbol of the five commandments of Islam!

By the way, the species is not limited to just the Chinese representative. Native to Asia Minor, Syrian hibiscus is a shrub suitable for outdoor cultivation. However, only for the southern strip of Russia. After all, in a short summer, it simply does not have time to bloom! Its flowers are often confused with mallow.

There is another species that is sometimes called a weed, the hibiscus trifoliata. A flower up to 80 cm high has become a favorite of the African continent, and grows on its own in pastures and wastelands. Perhaps that is why he received such an offensive nickname!

Syrian and trifoliate hibiscus

Dissected petal hibiscus - this one beautiful view received the name “princess earrings”. It is shaped like a bell with curved petals that resemble the wings of an exotic bird! He is originally from Brazil and grows up in coastal strip, or tropical forests, suitable for home floriculture.

dissected hibiscus

Do you know?

The plant is edible! The flowers are used in tea, the leaves are added to salads, the seeds are used for confectionery purposes, and the ripe fruits are highly valued for making jams, compotes and even soups.

By the way, the famous hibiscus tea has nothing to do with the indoor rose plant we are used to! The raw material for it is the calyxes of Sudanese hibiscus flowers, which increase in size after flowering. Unlike its relatives, this species is distributed mainly in Arab countries, especially in Egypt and Sudan due to climatic preferences.

Sudanese rose

Rules of care

At home, hibiscus is not picky. Sometimes it's amazing to watch flowering plants in completely unsuitable conditions! And yet, if you want to achieve a beautiful crown and long flowering, you need to put in a little effort! Hibiscus care and cultivation.

Temperature and lighting

The only whim of a flower is that it needs light! In summer it should be diffused sunlight, with shading from direct rays. In winter, when there is a shortage of sun, it is necessary to provide it with artificial lighting to extend daylight hours to 10-12 hours. How to create additional lighting for flowers?

Chinese hibiscus can bloom even in winter if the room is warm and light. In the summer, feel free to take it out into the air! The flower is not afraid of temperature changes. But if it drops to 12 degrees, it is advisable to return it to the room; in such conditions, the roots stop absorbing moisture.

Watering and humidity

In summer, wide leaves actively evaporate moisture; the higher the temperature, the more active the watering should be. However, don't overdo it! It is better to water it less often, but more abundantly, than to supply it with water often and in small doses!

In addition, the flower itself signals the need for watering by lowering its leaves. It is preferable to water in the morning; during the day, the roots consume water more actively. As the temperature decreases, watering is reduced. 8 questions about watering indoor plants.

Be sure to spray the Chinese rose, it needs wet air regardless of the season! Sometimes give the plant a warm shower, after covering the pot with a bag. Hibiscus, the care of which is not difficult even for a novice gardener, is a very grateful plant. If the minimum conditions are met, it will definitely bloom! It’s not for nothing that it’s called the “flower of love.” During abundant flowering It is advisable to minimize spraying. After all, moisture falling on flower petals accelerates the process of their withering.

Fertilizers and fertilizers

Experienced flower growers have noticed that excess phosphorus does not have the best effect on the quality of flowering! Conventional fertilizers for flowering crops contain minerals in the following proportion ≈15-21-25 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). A better dosage would be ≈ 10-4-12 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Therefore, carefully study the composition of the fertilizer! How to choose mineral fertilizer.

To prevent chlorosis, Chinese hibiscus can sometimes be fed with magnesium leaf by leaf (leaf method). The plant responds well to organic fertilizers- mullein and ash. It is especially important to fertilize a rose in the spring and summer, during flowering and the growth of new leaves. By the way, before “feeding” the roots with fertilizer, you need to first moisten them with water for watering! How to use organics for flowers.

Will be useful foliar feeding– spraying with stimulants, organic, or mineral fertilizers in a reduced concentration (10 times lower than with root feeding). In winter, if the leaves continue to grow, you can fertilize the rose once a month. When there is a pronounced dormant period, fertilizers are not used!

Hibiscus pruning!

Caring for hibiscus involves regular pruning; it is needed to renew the crown and is a guarantee of flowering. If your pet already blooms regularly and also has a crown of the desired shape, it does not need a haircut. Although they say that this flower can be cut all year round, this is not true! In conditions of short daylight hours, it will be difficult for it to grow new leaves, and the old ones will turn yellow. Therefore, it is safer to trim the crown in the second half of March-April, when the sun is already active. Then it is guaranteed to bloom in June-July. Don’t be afraid of “dramatic haircuts”, new leaves will grow quickly!

It is better to prune three days after watering. Keep in mind that the location of the leaf gives the direction of the escape! So, leaving the outermost leaf growing downwards, you will get a new branch that will repeat its direction. As shown in the photo, when trimming, retreat approximately 5 mm from the sheet.

Reproduction and transplantation

The cuttings obtained after pruning easily take root in water, after which they can be planted in the ground. Some varieties are successfully propagated by seeds. It is advisable to replant Chinese hibiscus using the transshipment method, since its roots are fragile and thin! Replanting is required only if the rosette, in your opinion, is cramped in the pot. If the container is too large, the tree produces new leaves but does not bloom. How to choose a flower pot.

The soil for the plant must be nutritious and moisture-absorbing; for this, garden soil is mixed with humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. The flower must be provided good drainage and air access to the roots. Don't forget to loosen the soil sometimes! The first time after transplanting, it is recommended to water the rose from a tray to stimulate root growth. What soil is right for your flower?

Problems growing?

Hibiscus that requires no care special effort, sometimes he can still be capricious! What are the most common ailments associated with?

• If the hibiscus turns yellow and leaves fall...

In winter, the cause of leaf fall may be a lack of sun. This is the norm for deciduous plants! To maintain strength indoor rose, you can carry out foliar feeding with a solution of magnesium sulfate. However, if massive yellowing is observed, it is worth checking the rose for pests. Eg, spider mite! It especially often attacks weakened plants. Its presence is revealed by the cobwebs between the leaves, and sometimes the mite itself can be seen on the back of the leaf. In any case, bathe your rose in the shower more often as a preventive measure!

Another reason may be a change in temperature. When it's cool, the roots stop drinking water, so the plant can be easily watered. Be careful!

• If your hibiscus has faded leaves...

In this case, the spider mite could have tried! But perhaps water deposits or dust have simply accumulated on the leaves. Keep in mind that the older the leaf, the less bright its color becomes. It is mainly the young leaves that are distinguished by their juiciness! Formative pruning can save the situation, sufficient quantity light and periodic warm showers.

• If your hibiscus has misshapen leaves...

This phenomenon is often observed after transplantation if there has been damage to the roots! Rose will recover quickly if you provide her good lighting, regular watering and fertilizing, including foliar feeding. It is worth noting that slight deformation of the leaves, namely corrugation - natural feature Chinese hibiscus!

The cause may also be a sudden change in living conditions: cold weather, watering or spraying with cool water, excess fertilizer. Delicate leaves react noticeably to any changes, especially with regard to temperature. Even a short-term drop in temperature could cause deformation of young foliage! If conditions are stabilized, new leaves should grow evenly.

• If your hibiscus leaf tips are drying out...

This situation usually occurs in winter, when the apartment is dry from the radiators and there is not enough light. Winter is a difficult time for a flower! If possible, you need to provide it with artificial lighting, spray it often, wash it in the shower and water it with great care. During this period, do not rush to fertilize hibiscus; it is better to start fertilizing in the spring. If the room is cool, or the pot is on a cool windowsill, the roots may stop absorbing water altogether. In this case, watering is reduced to a minimum so as not to flood the plant.

To flower, the plant needs sunlight, at least 6 hours a day! Place it closer to the window; in summer you can safely take it out onto the balcony or veranda. Fresh air does wonders for a plant! But, do not forget to shade the tree from direct midday rays.

• If a hibiscus drops its buds...

According to one version, he may lack light or nutrition. An overabundance of minerals in the soil is also possible! Think about whether you have overfed your flower? Feeding should be done no more often than once every 10 days, strictly observing the dosage. It could also be due to a change in location or temperature. In general, when a rose has bloomed, it is better not to change the conditions.

• Sticky juice on hibiscus leaves...

Droplets of sticky substance inside leaf is normal for a Chinese rose! It may be a consequence of temperature changes or overheating. And yet, it is not superfluous to check the plant for the presence of pests (aphids, scale insects).

It is important to know:

If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments or on the forum. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

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Indoor hibiscus. Care

The very first indoor “flower” that I grew with my own hands was Chinese hibiscus, or, as we called this plant, Chinese rose. I remember very well the day he appeared in our house. I am 15 years old. In the lobby of the clinic a huge man dies, obviously at some point beautiful bush. Constantly looking around, I I break off a twig and hide it in my bag.

Over the years, the Chinese rose has experienced many different events with me. And recently I celebrated her 25th anniversary.

Chinese hibiscus, or Chinese rose (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a plant of the mallow family (Malvaceae). The homeland of this incredibly beautiful flowering shrub Southeast Asia and Polynesia. In nature, it reaches a height of 4 m or more. Thanks to the work of breeders, today there are about 250 varieties of Chinese roses of a wide variety of colors, but 25 years ago we knew only the red-flowered double form.

Those who decide to have a hibiscus must remember that it is a spreading fast growing shrub, which will require a large pot, and, therefore, a fairly spacious place in the house. True, now compact, slow-growing varieties have appeared on sale.

Hibiscus is easy to grow from non-lignified green shoots remaining after annual spring pruning. Cuttings with 2-3 leaves are cut from them. Large leaf blades are shortened by half to reduce moisture evaporation. Sometimes during the rooting process, the leaves on the cuttings fall off, but the cutting itself remains alive. As soon as roots develop on it, new leaves grow from dormant buds.

You can root hibiscus in water. When small white growths (callus) appear at the lower end of the cutting, it is planted in a small pot in an earthen mixture, watered abundantly and placed in a greenhouse. She can be replaced plastic bag or a transparent plastic bottle, always with ventilation holes. With the appearance of young leaves, the plant can be removed from the greenhouse and placed on permanent place.

Rooted cuttings bloom in the year of planting. Already 4-month-old young shoots “throw out” bud after bud from the apical point of growth. It’s funny to see how tiny buds appear on a thin stem. They gradually increase in size, and within a few days a huge double flower blooms, up to 10 cm in diameter!

It lasts exactly a day, and then falls off, giving way to the next one. Continuous flowering occurs until late autumn, and on southern windows -all year round.

As soon as the hibiscus begins to prepare for flowering, it should be given more attention. The fact is that buds and flowers are a great treat for peach aphids. If you find uninvited guests, immediately treat the plant with the Fitoverm insecticide or any other drug that kills the pest. If there are too many aphids, it is better to remove the emerging buds until the plant is completely cured.

Hibiscus needs to be shaped. In the spring, in mid-March-April, long shoots are shortened to stimulate branching. If the plant has only one shoot, it is cut to an arbitrary height. If a bush has formed, then you need to observe certain rules trimmings recommended by experts. Each shoot is cut 1/3 above the leaf facing outward. I did a little experiment. Some of the shoots were pruned according to the recommendation, and some contrary to it, that is, above the inner bud. Those branches that were pruned according to the rules gave rise to several side shoots. And the “wrong” ones only grew one young shoot from the upper bud.

In the spring, simultaneously with pruning, the hibiscus is replanted or transferred to a fresh substrate; young plants annually, adults, starting at 7-10 years - as needed. For large tubs, they should be changed annually. upper layer land.

Hibiscus are big gluttons, so I add a little rotted mullein to the fresh substrate.

Previously, when I just started studying indoor floriculture, collected rotted leaves in the park and mixed them into the soil mixture when replanting. It is necessary to feed hibiscus every 2 weeks with fertilizer for flowering crops.

In summer it is better to take them out open air. Watering with soft rainwater, abundance sunlight, Fresh air harden the plant before a long and difficult winter. The minimum temperature that Chinese hibiscus can withstand is plus 10-12″C. A further decrease in temperature can lead to hypothermia of the root system and death of the plant.

In the autumn-winter period, the flowering of hibiscus weakens or stops altogether. Half-opened buds fall off, but new ones are not formed. A period of relative peace ensues. At this time, the plant is fertilized no more than once a month. With batteries included central heating Another danger appears - the invasion of spider mites. This pest should also be eliminated using appropriate medications. A few years ago my hibiscus got sick. I still don’t know what happened. The leaves began to fly away, the shoots stopped growing, and the growing points dried up. Wait for death. I didn’t bother with the plant, took it out of the pot, and examined the roots. They were knotty and very densely intertwined; I didn’t find anything else alarming. Having slightly “disturbed” the root system, I trimmed it a little with scissors and shortened the shoots. I planted the bush in another pot, completely changing the substrate. Now all that was left was to wait. For about a year, the hibiscus showed no signs of life. He didn't die, but he didn't grow either. No fertilizers or stimulants helped. Completely desperate, I began to water it with urea diluted in water. Slowly, very slowly, the plant began to come to life. For 8 months I tried to help him, and when I had already given up, my hibiscus suddenly “woke up”: young leaves began to appear, shoots grew. Every day he looked more and more like his former self. It celebrated its 25th anniversary covered in shiny new foliage.

Chinese hibiscus is propagated not only by cuttings, but also by seeds. However, of all the commercially available varietal seeds, I was only able to grow the hibiscus ‘Tsar Bell’. All 5 seeds sprouted in 3 days, and after 4 months the seedlings reached 50-70 cm in height and began to prepare for flowering. On one of them a huge (15 cm in diameter!) flower opened. The seedlings, left in small pots due to lack of space, showed amazing resilience. Sometimes the substrate in them completely dried out, the leaves hung and it seemed that the plants could not be saved. But as soon as the pots were immersed in water, the turgor was completely restored within a few hours. In the fall, due to insufficient lighting, the seedlings began to lose leaves, then the shoots began to die. When about 10 cm remained to the base of the stems, the dying stopped. In spring the plants began to grow. After the ground warmed up, I planted all 5 seedlings in the ground. However, despite the fact that the colorful seed bag bore the inscription “Winter-hardy!”, the plants felt open ground uncomfortable, the growth of shoots has stopped. Only 3 seedlings survived until the fall, and not a single one survived the winter.

Thanks to communication with foreign breeders and the arrival of new, hitherto unknown varieties on our flower market, we now know much more about hibiscus than before. There are varieties whose flower size reaches 25 cm in diameter! Now no one will be surprised by the old variety with red double flowers, but it is dear to me, like an old and reliable Friend.

On a note:

Varieties of gladioli - CHAMPION VARIETIES OF GLADIOLUS

The flower of love, the Chinese rose, is very tolerant of mistakes in care. Single, even significant mistakes do not cause serious harm to the plant. Only constant violation of the rose's needs leads to serious consequences - the appearance of pests, the occurrence of diseases or the death of the entire plant.

The main mistakes when growing Chinese roses

The main mistakes that negatively affect the health of Chinese hibiscus:

• Keeping the plant in a room with elevated temperatures and low humidity.
• Place the flower pot in a draft or in the sun at midday.
• A layer of dust on the leaves and branches of a tree.
• Poor drainage, waterlogging of the soil, leading to rotting of the roots.
• Use of unsuitable water for irrigation: cold, containing chlorine, with a high content of hardness salts.
• The appearance of pests after being outdoors or coming into contact with plants inhabited by pests.
• No soil replacement, fertilization, or replanting into a looser pot for a long time.
• Excessive application, especially of nitrogen fertilizers.
• Insufficient lighting, change in the position of the flower relative to the light source.

Creating favorable conditions for hibiscus extends the flowering period, which usually lasts from March to October, and sometimes longer. These failures in rose maintenance lead to diseases that impair the appearance and quality of flowering.

Diseases

Name diseases	Reason for appearance	Signs of the disease
Non-infectious chlorosis	Nutritional imbalance is an excess of one or more elements against the background of a lack of others.	Thin branches, pale leaves, faded color of flowers, weak flowering indicate a lack of potassium in the plant’s nutritional system. The appearance of spots on the leaves indicates a lack of nitrogen or magnesium; sudden leaf fall or whitening of leaves – iron deficiency.
Infectious chlorosis	Infection of Chinese roses with pests, microbes, viruses, and fungal infections.	General depression of the plant, weak flowering, leaf fall, leaf curl, the appearance of traces of pest activity on leaves and branches.
Sunburn	A sharp change in illumination when a plant changes its place of residence, excessive insolation at noon.	Burns in the form of white spots on hibiscus leaves.
Vascular (tracheomycosis) wilting	Infection of a plant with a fungal infection of Verticillium or Fusarium, with the development of the disease.	The rapid development of the process of dying off of the ends of the branches, with the transition to the trunk and the death of the entire plant

Leaf diseases

The painful change in the condition of the leaves is associated with a decrease in the production of chlorophyll by the green parts of the plant.

The main signs of pain and causes:

1. Rapid yellowing of leaves– pests, nutritional deficiencies, root rot or disease, lack of moisture in the room.
2. Sudden leaf fall– low humidity in the room, lack of spraying, changes in light conditions, stressful conditions for the plant (sharp increase or decrease in temperature, numerous drafts).
3. Sudden yellowing of leaves combined with leaf fall– low indoor air humidity, rotting of the root system, stressful changes in living conditions..
4. The appearance of curled leaves– damage to the Chinese rose by pests.
5. Browning of leaf ends– lack of nutrition.
6. Wilting of the plant as a whole– overdrying of the earthen coma, excessive temperature in the room, decreased humidity
7. The plant sheds leaves, flowers and buds– lack of potassium, pest infestation, excessively elevated room temperature.

Most diseases that affect hibiscus are non-infectious in nature and are the result of deficiencies in plant maintenance. By eliminating these shortcomings, we will eliminate the causes of these diseases and restore the health of the rose.

The main rules, following which the Chinese rose - the flower of love, will be healthy and delight with lush flowering:

• Moderate watering without stagnation of water and drying out of the earthen coma, good drainage.
• Good lighting without the midday sun.
• Timely application of fertilizers. In summer once every 7-10 days, in winter once a month.
• Reducing watering and temperatures up to +15°C in winter.
• Spraying hibiscus daily soft desalted water at any time of the year.
• Annual transplants young plants or replacing the top layer of soil in mature plants, subject to the necessary drainage.

Vascular wilt of the Chinese rose deserves special attention. The rapidity of development of this disease does not allow timely treatment necessary measures to save a pet. Urgently needed:

1. trim dried branches, including the healthy part;
2. treat the plant with antifungal agents (Fundazol, Quadris, Strobi) and to strengthen the plant with immunostimulants - Epin, Zircon, Immunocytophyte);
3. Sprinkle with Trichopolum solution (2 tablets per 1 liter of water).

Pests

Pest	Description	Signs	Facilities
Aphid	A small, fast-reproducing insect that settles on young shoots and buds.	Appearance on the plant sticky coating.	Fitoverm, Biotlin, tobacco dust
Spider mite	A small, red spider, visible only under a magnifying glass.	When it appears, the underside of the leaf becomes covered with cobwebs.	Soap solution, Akarin, Fitoverm
Whitefly	Small, white, flying insect. Lives on the reverse side of the leaf.	Sticky spots on leaves and shoots.	Fitoverm, Biotlin, potassium soap
Chervetsy	The closest relative of the scale insect, up to 8mm in size.	Waxy discharge on leaves and shoots	Mineral oil
Scale insects, false scale insects	Noticeable brown bumps on leaves and branches.		actellik
Gallica	Midge laying eggs in buds that fall off	Falling buds, inside of which there are worms that fall into the soil.	Timely collection of fallen buds, Fly eater, Provotox, Grizzly

Why doesn't the Chinese rose bloom?

You can stimulate flowering if you trim old branches in a timely manner, replace the soil with fresh soil, and place the plant in the sunniest place. Fertilizing will cause new shoots and buds to appear on the plant.

Flowers on Chinese roses appear only on young shoots; pruning old branches will speed up the appearance of new shoots and buds.

Interesting point. If the hibiscus spent the entire summer outdoors, and upon returning home in the fall, found itself in a cold atmosphere, on a sunny windowsill, then its flowering will continue. And if a rose sits in a hot room all winter, it will not bloom until spring.

“Grandma’s secret” on how to make a stubborn hibiscus bloom.

IN Once again When replanting a flower, you need to stick it into a lump of earth wooden stick about 10 cm long at a short distance from the trunk. Thanks to this trick, the flowers will open on the rose one after another.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Yellowing of the leaves on a Chinese rose indicates that there are problems with watering. The water used to water the hibiscus contains chlorine, hardness salts, or the water is too cold. A brown border on the leaves indicates that the plant is overfed with nitrogen. Watering a rose with warm, soft, melted water will bring the flower back to life.

A plant whose living conditions have suddenly changed can completely lose both flowers and leaves. But it won't last long. Soon new leaves will appear on the bare branches.

Description of hibiscus and growing problems: video

Preface

The Chinese rose, also known as hibiscus, is quite unpretentious, but it also has its enemies in the form of various pests and diseases that plague it. Knowing the causes of damage to any ailments, you can completely prevent this plant from becoming sick. And if a similar misfortune befell the Chinese rose, then you need to know about ways to combat it.

Most of the diseases of the Chinese rose are associated with improper care for it. And in second place in terms of the number of diseases and the frequency of their manifestation are cases of infection with fungi and pathogenic viruses. But, by the way, the defeat of a rose by most of these diseases also depends on the correctness of its cultivation. After all, when a plant does not receive proper care, it becomes weakened and, as a result, more susceptible to infection by fungi and viruses.

Chinese rose

Hibiscus is resistant to the vicissitudes of fate - it is not very dependent on how it is grown. This means that even serious flaws in caring for it cannot cause significant harm to the Chinese rose. However, this plant “forgives” such negligence only if it is allowed in a single quantity. Systematic violation any requirements of agricultural technology will certainly provoke certain troubles and diseases. The hibiscus will first begin to feel unwell (weaken), and then it will wither and get sick.

Thus, all currently known diseases of the Chinese rose can affect it due to following errors in care:

• placing the plant in a draft, under the wind or direct rays of the sun;
• excessive watering, resulting in root rot;
• placement in a dry or hot room;
• pollution and dustiness of the plant, especially its leaves;
• lack of spraying or when it is extremely rare, especially in summer;
• watering with water of poor quality (containing many harmful impurities or not settled);
• poor lighting, and sometimes the flower turns around reverse side to the sun;
• “overfeeding” with fertilizers;
• lack of fertilizing and replanting;
• allowing contact with already diseased plants, as a result of which the hibiscus is affected by diseases and pests.

All these violations in care, subject to their systematic impact on the Chinese rose, provoke various diseases in it. If this plant is provided with favorable conditions or at least not injured by careless treatment, then it grows for quite a long time and is sure to please with its flowering every year from April right up to October, or even longer.

The first signs of deterioration in health or illness of a Chinese rose in most cases are any changes in the condition of its leaves, as well as some other symptoms listed below. In each individual case, the plant may be unwell, usually for one of several reasons. Below are the main symptoms and the most likely causes that caused them.

Yellowed hibiscus leaves

If the hibiscus has leaves:

1. Yellowed - the plant is infected with pests (spider mites or aphids), its roots turn white, the leaves have chlorosis, or the air in the room is not humid enough.
2. They turn yellow and fall off - stress (occurs when unfavorable factors occur or a sharp change in living conditions), drafts or insufficiently humid air in the room, and in winter also from waterlogging of the roots.
3. They fall off - there is insufficiently humid air in the room, stress, sudden changes in light intensity or drafts.
4. They wither at the tips - the plant lacks phosphorus and nitrogen, and also, most likely, some others nutrients.
5. If they curl into a tube, they are infested with pests, most likely aphids.
6. They fall off along with the flower buds - the room is too hot, the plant lacks potassium, or it is affected by a pest (midge midge).
7. They wither along with the entire plant - the room is too hot or the humidity is below critical levels for the Chinese rose.

What exactly is the reason for the appearance of most of these symptoms must begin to be determined by identifying possible deficiencies in care. That is, we determine whether the temperature and humidity in the room, the frequency and amount of watering, as well as spraying and fertilizing with fertilizers correspond to those required for hibiscus. Then, using the method of elimination, we determine possible, and, most often, real reasons. If they are in improper care, then we eliminate the mistakes made. How to deal with other reasons will be discussed later.

The most common hibiscus diseases are described below. Most of them manifest themselves in changes appearance leaves. Let's start with these ailments in order of their prevalence. Leaf diseases in the vast majority of cases are caused by chlorosis. This is a disease in which the process of chlorophyll formation in a plant is disrupted and the activity of photosynthesis is reduced. The main characteristic signs of this disease in hibiscus are yellowing and/or falling leaves. There are two types of chlorosis - non-infectious and infectious.

Non-infectious rose chlorosis

Most often, the Chinese rose is affected by non-infectious chlorosis. The reasons for its occurrence lie in nutritional disorders: insufficient or excessive supply of nitrogen, potassium, iron and magnesium. Moreover, it should be noted that magnesium and potassium are, by their nature, competing elements. That is, an excess of one causes a deficiency of the second. Symptoms of non-infectious chlorosis in Hibiscus are as follows. With a lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow and then fall off. If there is thinning of the branches, the plant does not bloom at the right time, or its flowers are pale in color (not bright enough), then this indicates a potassium deficiency. When a rose lacks magnesium or nitrogen, the leaves become covered with spots: yellow, whitish or lemon-colored.

Infectious chlorosis, as its name suggests, affects hibiscus due to infection. The causative agents of this are fungal microorganisms, viruses and even pests. Symptoms of infectious chlorosis are as follows: yellowing and subsequent falling of leaves, as well as general weakness and lack of flowering of the plant. Perhaps the next most common disease is sunburn. Signs of this disease are the appearance of white spots on the leaves, as in the photo. They arise as a result of partial destruction of green tissues by chloroform under direct sunlight. This usually happens with plants for which the lighting intensity has suddenly changed - they have been moved from a less lit place or from a greenhouse to bright sun.

Vascular wilt is the result of infection of hibiscus by fungi of the genus Verticillium or Fusarium. With verticillium, the leaves of the plant begin to curl and turn yellow at the bottom of the trunk. This process then moves up the stem. A severely affected rose will only have the very top remaining green. If the room is hot, the leaves wither very quickly, without having time to curl, causing the plant to look as if it had been scalded. Fusarium disease manifests itself in the slow wilting and subsequent death of leaves without changing their color, that is, they remain green. U upper leaves The edges may become watery, and some areas may acquire a pale green or light yellow tint. In both cases, after all the leaves are damaged, the trunk quickly dries out and the plant dies.

Bacterial spot

Bacterial spotting is a disease, the manifestations of which can be observed not only on the leaves, but also on the shoots. Basically, this disease in Hibiscus is caused by bacteria of the same type as Xanthomonas. This disease most often affects young shoots and leaves. Depending on the specific type pathogen, the symptoms of the disease may differ slightly. The most characteristic and common picture is when watery yellow small spots first appear on the stems and leaves (visible in the photograph), which gradually turn black. The shape of the spots is most often irregularly angular, and a light green or yellow border is visible along their contour. The spots gradually increase in size and then merge. As a result, the entire sheet turns black. This way the disease progresses throughout the entire plant and eventually it dies.

Another variant of spotting caused by bacteria is fire blight. Its causative agent is other bacteria belonging to the genus Pseudomonas. Most often, bacterial burn begins with young shoots, leaves and flowers. Its symptoms are as follows. Not spots form on the plant, but rather large, shapeless areas of blackening (as in the photo), which soon dry out. Outwardly, such areas on the sheet look as if it was burnt in this place. The progression of bacterial burn first causes the death of individual parts of the plant, and then its death. At favorable conditions this disease develops very quickly.

When affected by brown rot, hibiscus stems turn brown and thin at the very base. The rose is greatly weakened and may die. Most often, this disease affects young seedlings and plants.

Most of the problems that arise with hibiscus can be solved by normalizing the conditions of its maintenance and eliminating errors in care. Since the purpose of this article is not to consider exactly how to care for a Chinese rose, all these points will be omitted. We will only focus on eliminating a number of specific omissions in care, indicated above in the chapter on the main symptoms of deterioration in the plant’s condition. If there is insufficient humidity in the room, the plant must be sprayed more often - not once, but several times a day. At the same time, the soil should not be allowed to become waterlogged - so that after such a “shower” there will be water standing in the pot. If the Hibiscus is hot, then you should try to lower the temperature in the room with it, and you should also shade it and spray it.

Fertilizers for Chinese rose

When a plant lacks some nutrients, then, of course, it is necessary to feed it with appropriate preparations that include exactly the missing elements. If the roots become waterlogged in winter, then watering should be temporarily reduced in quantity and volume, and the plant itself should be sprayed instead, making sure, again, that it gets into the soil. less water, and it did not turn into liquid mush. What to do in case of drafts is clear - you need to eliminate the cause of their occurrence or move the Chinese rose to another, calmer place.

Now about the treatment of diseases. Non-infectious chlorosis can not only be defeated, but also prevented by regularly feeding Hibiscus with fertilizers. If, however, this misfortune does occur, the emphasis should be placed precisely on those supplements that contain the missing elements. It should also be noted that symptoms of iron deficiency (yellowing of leaves) appear against the background of a lack of nitrogen and an increased content of chlorine and calcium in the water used for irrigation. Therefore, before watering, the water must be settled, and then a microfertilizer such as iron chelate must be added to it. The latter should be done if there really is an iron deficiency. And you need to ensure that the amount of fertilizing containing nitrogen is sufficient.

Infectious chlorosis is best prevented. To do this, the Chinese rose should not be allowed to come into contact with diseased plants; it must be replanted and fertilized in a timely manner, and it must also be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. The latter is best done while washing the hibiscus in the shower. The soil in the pot must be covered with cellophane. And yet, all new plants brought home must undergo a temporary quarantine procedure. That is, for several weeks they need to be placed separately and away from existing flowers. In case of hibiscus disease, use appropriate medications (intended to combat identified diseases and pests) to treat it.

To prevent sunburn, Chinese roses grown in greenhouses and in a darkened room must be accustomed to changing lighting gradually, first exposing them to the sun for an hour and a half a day. Then we gradually increase the duration of the plants’ exposure to bright light and only after complete adaptation to it do we change their “place of residence.” If the hibiscus does get burns, it’s okay. It quickly gets used to the change in lighting, and the leaves that have received burnt spots simply fall off, giving way to new normal ones that soon grow.

Zircon for processing roses

Vascular wilt is very difficult to treat and it is not always possible to cure hibiscus from it. Often it dies quickly and it happens that its leaves do not even have time to fall. This disease should be dealt with as follows:

1. We cut off all the affected (dried) fragments of the plant, while slightly capturing its healthy parts.
2. We treat the entire rose with special antifungal compounds: Fundazol, Topsin, Dezavid, Alirin-R or others. You can also use the drug Rovral, the solution of which must be poured under the root. There are also folk remedy– spraying the plant with a solution Trichopolum(2 tablets per 1 liter of water).
3. Additionally, you can stimulate the rose’s defense mechanisms by treating it with drugs Epin, Zircon, Domotsvet. You just need to make sure before that that the chosen composition can be used in combination with the antifungal agent used.

If vascular wilt cannot be cured at the initial stage, and the hibiscus continues to hurt and wither, it will have to be destroyed. Bacterial spotting can be remarkably cured by spraying the plant itself while simultaneously watering the soil in the pot with a solution Trichopolum(1 tablet for 2 liters of water). Also effective are such well-known copper-containing preparations as copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture. It can also be used not only for treatment, but also for prevention. Fundazol, Euparen. To prevent brown rot, hibiscus cuttings and seedlings should be treated with Rovral. In addition, seedlings should be planted shallowly, and after planting they should be thoroughly sprayed with the same preparation.

When a plant is stressed, you must first try to figure out what caused it. If the reason is a significant deviation in the conditions of maintenance from those necessary for hibiscus, then it must be eliminated. The plant is unlikely to adapt to this, especially if the changes that have occurred are, in principle, unacceptable for its life. Stress can also occur due to the fact that the rose is greatly disturbed, for example, they often change its “place of residence” (they constantly replant it or move it from one place to another, which usually happens during renovations and moves) or do not monitor the behavior of children and pets that exhibit excessive curiosity to indoor plants.

Signs of Stress in Hibiscus

Such effects on the plant must also be stopped immediately. In the first case, the hibiscus should be left alone, at least for a while, until it copes with stress (stop replanting or choose the most suitable one for it). appropriate place, from which it is relative for a long time no need to transfer). In the second - to forever protect the plant from domestic “robbers”, that is, for example, find a place for it that is inaccessible to them.

Stress can also be caused by minor changes in conditions of detention, when their main parameters are within the limits acceptable values(associated with: transfer from one room to another or from a greenhouse to a permanent habitat; with slight deviations from previous care), seasonal changes in environment(for example, reducing the level and duration of lighting in winter), any damage, replanting or flowering (also a stressful load for young and weakened plants). In this case, no drastic measures will have to be taken.

Well, the Chinese rose, as a rule, is able to cope with stress itself. In the first two cases, this will happen after eliminating the causes that provoked it, and in the last - due to adaptation to new conditions. But in order for the plant to successfully and quickly cope with stress, it is necessary to provide it with rest, spray it more often and more carefully monitor compliance with the schedule and norms of watering and fertilizing, as well as the quality of the water and fertilizers used for this.

In addition, hibiscus can be helped to stimulate adaptive processes in it with the help of anti-stress drugs, especially if the stressful state does not go away for a long time and the plant is severely weakened. These include: Zircon, Fitosporin, Planriz, Epin-Extra, Planriz, Krezacin. Such drugs have an immunostimulating and anti-stress effect on plants. You must select and use the desired “drug” in accordance with the instructions for it.

The most common pests and their control

Pests appear on a plant in two cases: when they are transplanted into contaminated soil or as a result of contact with already diseased flowers. Hibiscus is most often affected by the following pests.

Aphid. This small insect settles primarily on young leaves and shoots, as well as on plant buds. It multiplies very quickly, creating entire colonies. It is capable of completely destroying unopened flowers and young leaves, which at the initial stage of infection become sticky and deformed. To combat aphids it is necessary to treat the plant with drugs. Akarin, Fitoverm, Biotlin, Intra-Vir, Decis. They also help a lot Nicotine sulfate And Tobacco dust. On early stages and in cases of single partial damage to leaves, it is sufficient to limit treatment to the usual soap solution.

Spider mite. You won’t be able to see this pest without a magnifying glass, especially since it settles at the bottom of the leaves. When attacked by a tick, the latter first become dull and become covered with small yellow specks, which is clearly visible in the photograph. The pest envelops the underside of the leaves with a dense web, in which it lives. Subsequently, if measures are not taken immediately, extensive dried areas will form on the leaves. The fight against mites includes washing the leaves with soapy water or mineral oil and then treating the plant with medications. Akarin, Lightning, Vertimek, Fitoverm.

Whiteflies. They usually hide on the underside of leaves, where their adults and pale yellow larvae (shown in the photo) can be found. Characteristic sign whitefly damage to a plant - the appearance of a shiny sticky coating on the upper side of the leaves. This is the excretions of the pest. After some time, sooty fungi develop in them, due to which the surface of the leaves becomes first white and then black. It is these mushrooms that can cause severe harm to the plant, and not the whiteflies themselves. In addition, this pest is a carrier of various viral infections. Symptoms of whitefly-borne diseases can vary widely. This is chlorosis, and the leaves can turn yellow, become deformed, and curl.

This pest must be combated by treating the plant with a solution of potassium soap or with the preparations Aktara, Admiral, Biotlin, Bankol, Iskra, Apploud, Fufanon, Tanrek.

Scaleworms. Signs of damage to the plant by them: waxy lumps and powdery coating appear in the axils of the leaves and on the cuttings white, as in the photograph. Methods of control: treatment with the same drugs as for whiteflies.

Scale insects and false scale insects. Signs of damage: pale brown or brownish round scales (tubercles) appear on the stems and leaves of the rose, which can be difficult to separate from the plant. These are already adult pests. If the damage is not severe, clean off the scales with a cloth or toothbrush dipped in a soap or alcohol solution. Kerosene-soap emulsion also works well. In case of severe damage, we use one of the above insecticides.

Midge gall midge. Signs of damage: leaves and unopened buds turn yellow and fall off. It is imperative to inspect the buds and identify any affected ones. Small eggs of the pest will be visible in them. All these and yellowed buds must be torn off. They should not be allowed to fall on the ground. Then we treat the soil with one of the above insecticides.

The very first indoor “flower” that I grew with my own hands - Chinese hibiscus, or, as we called this plant, Chinese rose. I remember very well the day he appeared in our house. I am 15 years old. In the lobby of the clinic, a huge and apparently once beautiful bush dies. Constantly looking around, I break off a twig and hide it in my bag.

Over the years, the Chinese rose has experienced many different events with me. And recently I celebrated her 25th anniversary.

Chinese hibiscus, or Chinese rose(Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a plant of the mallow family (Malvaceae). The homeland of this incredibly beautiful flowering shrub is Southeast Asia and Polynesia. In nature, it reaches a height of 4 m or more. Thanks to the work of breeders, today there are about 250 varieties of Chinese roses of a wide variety of colors, but 25 years ago we knew only the red-flowered double form.

To those who decided get yourself a hibiscus, we must remember that this is a spreading, fast-growing shrub that will require a large pot, and, therefore, a fairly spacious place in the house. True, now compact, slow-growing varieties have appeared on sale.

Hibiscus is easy to grow from non-lignified green shoots remaining after annual spring pruning. Cuttings with 2-3 leaves are cut from them. Large leaf blades are shortened by half to reduce moisture evaporation. Sometimes during the rooting process, the leaves on the cuttings fall off, but the cutting itself remains alive. As soon as roots develop on it, new leaves grow from dormant buds.

Rooting hibiscus possible in water. When small white growths (callus) appear at the lower end of the cutting, it is planted in a small pot in an earthen mixture, watered abundantly and placed in a greenhouse. It can be replaced by a plastic bag or a transparent plastic bottle, always with ventilation holes. With the appearance of young leaves, the plant can be removed from the greenhouse and placed in a permanent place.

Rooted cuttings bloom in the year of planting. Already 4-month-old young shoots “throw out” bud after bud from the apical point of growth. It’s funny to see how tiny buds appear on a thin stem. They gradually increase in size, and within a few days a huge double flower blooms, up to 10 cm in diameter!

It lasts exactly a day, and then falls off, giving way to the next one. Continuous flowering occurs until late autumn, and on southern windows all year round.

As soon as hibiscus will begin to prepare to bloom, it should be given more attention. The fact is that buds and flowers are a great treat for peach aphids. If you find uninvited guests, immediately treat the plant with the Fitoverm insecticide or any other drug that kills the pest. If there are too many aphids, it is better to remove the emerging buds until the plant is completely cured.

Hibiscus needs to be shaped. In the spring, in mid-March-April, long shoots are shortened to stimulate branching. If the plant has only one shoot, it is cut to an arbitrary height. If a bush has formed, then you need to follow certain pruning rules recommended by experts. Each shoot is cut 1/3 above the leaf facing outward. I did a little experiment. Some of the shoots were pruned according to the recommendation, and some contrary to it, that is, above the inner bud. Those branches that were pruned according to the rules gave rise to several side shoots. And the “wrong” ones grew only one young shoot from the upper bud.

In spring at the same time as pruning hibiscus is replanted or transferred to fresh substrate; young plants annually, adults starting at 7-10 years old - as needed. For large tub specimens, the top layer of soil should be changed annually.

Hibiscus are big gluttons, so I add a little rotted mullein to the fresh substrate.

Previously, when I was just starting to engage in indoor floriculture, I collected rotted leaves in the park and mixed them into the earthen mixture when replanting. Feed hibiscus It is necessary to fertilize every 2 weeks for flowering crops.

In summer it is better to take them out into the open air. Watering with soft rainwater, plenty of sunlight, and fresh air harden the plant before a long and difficult winter. The minimum temperature that Chinese hibiscus can withstand is plus 10-12″C. A further decrease in temperature can lead to hypothermia of the root system and death of the plant.

In the autumn-winter period, the flowering of hibiscus weakens or stops altogether. Half-opened buds fall off, but new ones are not formed. A period of relative peace ensues. At this time, the plant is fertilized no more than once a month. With the inclusion of central heating batteries, another danger appears - the invasion of spider mites. This pest should also be eliminated using appropriate medications. A few years ago my hibiscus is sick. I still don’t know what happened. The leaves began to fly away, the shoots stopped growing, and the growing points dried up. Wait for death. I didn’t bother with the plant, took it out of the pot, and examined the roots. They were knotty and very densely intertwined; I didn’t find anything else alarming. Having slightly “disturbed” the root system, I trimmed it a little with scissors and shortened the shoots. I planted the bush in another pot, completely changing the substrate. Now all that was left was to wait. For about a year, the hibiscus showed no signs of life. He didn't die, but he didn't grow either. No fertilizers or stimulants helped. Completely desperate, I began to water it with urea diluted in water. Slowly, very slowly, the plant began to come to life. For 8 months I tried to help him, and when I had already given up, my hibiscus suddenly “woke up”: young leaves began to appear, shoots grew. Every day he looked more and more like his former self. It celebrated its 25th anniversary covered in shiny new foliage.

Chinese hibiscus is propagated not only by cuttings, but also by seeds.. However, of all the commercially available varietal seeds, I was only able to grow the hibiscus ‘Tsar Bell’. All 5 seeds sprouted in 3 days, and after 4 months the seedlings reached 50-70 cm in height and began to prepare for flowering. On one of them a huge (15 cm in diameter!) flower opened. The seedlings, left in small pots due to lack of space, showed amazing resilience. Sometimes the substrate in them completely dried out, the leaves hung and it seemed that the plants could not be saved. But as soon as the pots were immersed in water, the turgor was completely restored within a few hours. In the fall, due to insufficient lighting, the seedlings began to lose leaves, then the shoots began to die. When about 10 cm remained to the base of the stems, the dying stopped. In spring the plants began to grow. After the ground warmed up, I planted all 5 seedlings in the ground. However, despite the fact that the colorful seed bag bore the inscription “Winter-hardy!”, the plants felt uncomfortable in the open ground, and shoot growth stopped. Only 3 seedlings survived until the fall, and not a single one survived the winter.

Thanks to communication with foreign breeders and the arrival of new, hitherto unknown varieties on our flower market, we now know much more about hibiscus than before. There are varieties whose flower size reaches 25 cm in diameter! Now no one will be surprised by the old variety with red double flowers, but it is dear to me, like an old and reliable Friend.

On a note:

— CHAMPION VARIETIES OF GLADIOLUS