Is it necessary to pinch chrysanthemum seedlings? Chrysanthemum in Europe

Chrysanthemum is a flower with a very unusual history. Its exact homeland is unknown, there is debate about where this wonderful flower came to us, some say from Japan, others say from China, and others mention all of East Asia.

However, be that as it may, all this does not negate the fact that the chrysanthemum is stunningly beautiful, so beautiful that in Japan the highest award is called the Order of the Chrysanthemum, and one emperor ordered a seal with its image.

Perhaps for this history and its beauty, growing it at home is not so easy, since many factors will influence its beauty and health. All this and much more is written below.

Chrysanthemum home - description

Chrysanthemum domestica has a short stature. This is due to the fact that it is grown artificially in greenhouses, where its growth is stopped with special equipment for decorative purposes.

Some have had to deal with the fact that when they bought a cutting and tried to grow it, they ended up with a large bush that looked more like a garden bush than a home bush. In this regard, it is worth saying a few words about how to choose the right homemade chrysanthemums in pots.

First of all, take a close look at appearance plants. It should be strong, dense, the leaves should be well developed, and there should be no insects on the trunk. This will allow her to quickly get used to home conditions. This way it will not become infected and will not affect the growth of other already established flowers.

Which varieties are suitable for growing at home?

Caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot at home is particularly difficult, but if you follow the basic nuances, the plant will delight you with long, lush flowering. Chrysanthemum flowers are often used to create original bouquets. They look great alone or as part of a flower arrangement.

The variety of varieties and varieties will make a bouquet of chrysanthemums a real surprise, allowing you to get away from standard roses and gerberas.

IN Lately It has also become popular to give fresh flowers in a pot. The advantages are obvious: a longer flowering period and the possibility of further breeding. At the same time, it often turns out that after the phase of vegetative activity the plant is considered dead. To prolong the life of your pet and enjoy it for a long time beautiful flowers, you can use the advice in our article and grow a full-fledged indoor plant.

dachnaya-zhizn.ru

Home varieties

Of course, ordinary garden crops will not feel comfortable at home. They are too big and cold-loving for this. At the same time, breeders have developed enough varieties of chrysanthemums, the cultivation of which is quite possible in apartment conditions.

Before purchasing, be sure to check this point with the seller, and also take care in advance to create suitable conditions for your pet, which will be discussed a little later.

Varieties of varieties and classification of chrysanthemums

The most common and numerous variety of this flower is the Korean chrysanthemum. There are many varieties of it, and most have nothing in common with each other. The classification is mainly based on the configuration of leaves and inflorescences. Korean varieties are most often used for growing at home.

Indian chrysanthemum is also very popular; it has more refined shapes and the size of its inflorescences. Indoor varieties are distinguished by a relatively high stem on which a large flower (up to 15 cm in diameter) is located. Most varieties of Indian chrysanthemum are grown as garden plants.

Features of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum multiflora is an almost perfect ball with small-sized inflorescences. A characteristic feature is the shape of the flower, as well as numerous buds and active flowering, which lasts from a month to two. After the flowers fall, you need to trim the stems, then bring the pot into the shelter. These shapes can be used to decorate country cottage area, but for wintering it’s better to find enough warm room with good ventilation.

Zembla chrysanthemum is more in demand as garden culture, but it can also be found among the description indoor plants. Characteristics This plant will have fairly large inflorescences, petals rolled into an incomplete tube and a wide range of colors. The most common will be yellow chrysanthemums, but among selection varieties There are even greenish and blue flowers.

Classification of chrysanthemums

General classification of chrysanthemums:

• If the size of the inflorescences is less than 80 mm, such varieties are called small-flowered. Large-flowered plants, accordingly, the diameter is much larger.
• Based on the shape of the inflorescences, they are distinguished between blanket and double-row, double and semi-double. You can find a general name - globular chrysanthemum, which combines several groups with round voluminous inflorescences.
• According to the flowering period, early, middle and late flowering specimens are distinguished. This classification is important if you also want to collect seeds for further cultivation colors. U late flowering varieties They, as a rule, do not have time to ripen, so they are not suitable for planting.
• The height of the stem also classifies chrysanthemums into border (up to 30 cm) and medium (up to 50 cm in height).
• The shape of the petals and their arrangement can be chamomile-like, with a pronounced core (usually of a contrasting color). Double flowers do not have this feature, but can attract attention with petals of different lengths and configurations.

It is impossible to describe all the varieties of this flower, much less indicate all possible color options. “Classic” white chrysanthemums are not inferior in popularity to roses and tulips, and a variety of rainbow mixes will cheer you up during the cold season.

Popular varieties

Indoor chrysanthemum is more compact in size; when forming a bush, it forms attractive spherical trees. In addition to the purely visual effect, this plant is famous positive energy and in many beliefs it has earned the fame of a family amulet.

The chrysanthemum has the greatest popularity and universal love in eastern cultures, especially for Japan. There this plant is grown everywhere and is a symbol of wealth, love and prosperity. To successfully grow the Japanese version of a lucky horseshoe at home, you must adhere to certain requirements.

uplady.ru

What to look for when purchasing

Chrysanthemums are presented in such quantities on the markets that choosing just one bush is not easy. But try to be very careful, because success directly depends on how picky you are.

Never buy chrysanthemums with fully blossomed inflorescences - specimens whose inflorescences are no more than half blossomed will bloom better and longer.

The bushes should be fully formed, powerful, the shoots should be woody below, and the leaves should be healthy. Please note that yellowing of foliage and spots on leaves and shoots are unacceptable.

Light mode for potted chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are crops that require a short daylight hours to bloom abundantly. But this does not mean that they are content with shaded locations.

During the entire period active development, including flowering, chrysanthemums should be provided with the sunniest and brightest locations, where the plants will not suffer from midday rays or will be shaded from them by neighboring potted plants.

In winter, chrysanthemums are kept in dark rooms (with the exception of specimens that continue to bloom, which are transferred to the brightest locations of the rooms and are planned to be thrown away after flowering)

Temperature conditions

Potted chrysanthemums (both garden and indoor) love cool weather, especially at the flowering stage. These are not the most heat-resistant crops, which are comfortable only in typical autumn conditions. The higher the air temperature, the faster the inflorescences fade and the less chrysanthemums produce new buds.

That is why it is better to keep even miniature indoor plants outdoors during flowering. Optimal temperature regime for potted chrysanthemums - from 10-15 to 17-20 degrees Celsius or a little more.

If chrysanthemums are in temperatures above 21-22 degrees during the flowering period, they will not be able to set buds normally for flowering next year, and even a cold winter will not give the expected effect.

www.botanichka.ru

Landing

What to do with a chrysanthemum in a pot - we’ll talk about this a little later. First, let's figure out how to plant it correctly. Material with mother plant cut with a sharp knife. You cannot break off the petioles, otherwise they may not be accepted.

The bush will grow beautiful and lush only if it has a sufficiently developed root system. Therefore, at the very beginning, the petioles are planted in a very large container.

You need to drill several holes at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Garden soil mixed with some organic fertilizer is poured into it.

The question of how to plant a chrysanthemum in a pot comes down to proper preparation soil. Before backfilling, the soil mixture must be subjected to heat treatment. Chrysanthemum is a rather delicate plant that easily becomes infected various kinds viral and fungal diseases.

• The cut petioles are carefully buried in the ground.
• After 20-25 days, roots form on them.
• As soon as this happens, they should be carefully transferred, along with a lump of earth, into a small flower pot.
• In this case mature plant will take the form of a beautiful lush bouquet.

The same soil is poured into a new pot. That is, they mix nutritious soil with organic fertilizer. You can also use fertilized peat.

www.syl.ru

Watering

The purchased chrysanthemum must be watered carefully. On the one hand, this plant is quite demanding when it comes to watering. On the other hand, excess moisture can cause root rot or the development of fungal diseases.

To prevent this from happening, you need to ensure good drainage: There must be a hole in the pot, and a layer of gravel or moss at the bottom. This will help remove all excess moisture from the pot.

• On average, chrysanthemums are watered no more than 2 times a week. You just need to make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
• Spraying the leaves plays an important role; it helps prevent dehydration.
• Dried leaves must be removed promptly. And healthy leaves are regularly cleaned of dust.

Cannot be used for watering plain water from the tap. You need to pass it through a filter and leave it for a couple of days. The water should not be cold, otherwise the plant is at risk of disease.

sadovod.guru

Air humidity

Chrysanthemum prefers high humidity. Therefore, the plant should be sprayed regularly. The frequency of spraying is one (two) times a day. If the grower simply does not have a spray bottle, then you can simply place a saucer or jar of water next to your home plantings.

Protection from dust and dirt

Chrysanthemum leaves should be regularly wiped to remove accumulated dust and other contaminants. This can be done with a regular damp cloth. Some gardeners place the pot in the bathtub and gently wash away any accumulated dust using a shower head.

onwomen.ru

Caring for chrysanthemums in a pot, applying fertilizers

Fertilization is a mandatory measure, because chrysanthemum requires a lot of nutrients for its development. IN different time different additives should be used each year. They can be divided into:

• nitrogen;
• potassium;
• phosphorus.

Nitrogen fertilizers are used during active flower growth, that is, in spring. These additives are important for the proper formation of shoots and active growth of leaves.

In the summer, they stop fertilizing chrysanthemums with nitrogen fertilizers, since at this time the active growth of the plant stops and preparation for flowering begins.

In mid-August, start feeding potassium supplements with some phosphorus. Closer to October, everything should be the other way around: more phosphorus with the addition of potassium. The plant needs these additives for lush flowering and successful wintering.

Chrysanthemum in a pot, care after flowering

How to care for home chrysanthemums in pots after flowering? When all the buds dry out, they should be removed. Also cut off any dead or damaged branches.

• After this, gradually reduce watering and place the flower in the place where it will winter.
• If you want to achieve double flowering, then think about it in advance.
• In any case, you will have to organize dormant conditions in which the plant will gain strength.

After this, you can expose the flower to heat ahead of time, increase watering, and also adjust changes in daylight hours. All these measures can make the chrysanthemum bloom in late February-early March.

Chrysanthemum in a pot: care at home in winter

How to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot winter time of the year? At this time, the chrysanthemum does not need to be watered heavily, and it should not be fertilized at all. Place the flower in a room with an air temperature of no more than 5 degrees. Such conditions may occur in an unheated storage room or cellar.

Some gardeners believe that indoor chrysanthemums need to be pruned for the winter, as is done with garden flower. But many experts consider this an unnecessary measure, since indoor flower There is no threat of frost or other ups and downs, so there is no need to be afraid that high branches will take too much strength from the flower.

Before wintering, it is advisable to treat the chrysanthemum with antimicrobial agents. They will eliminate the possibility of infecting the flower with pests, which, unlike plants, do not sleep in winter.

How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot in early spring?

In spring, plants begin to wake up and grow actively. Chrysanthemums in a pot also do this, how to care for them at this time? First of all, you should increase watering of the flower, since it needs moisture for growth. At the same time, you should not make a swamp in the flowerpot. Abundant watering should not turn into a “bay”.

Next, you should think about replanting the plant. This work is usually done in the spring. If the plant is young, then you should choose a flowerpot for it bigger size than the previous one. For an adult plant, you can leave the same container.

Prepare the soil for chrysanthemums yourself, since store-bought substrates are universal and are rarely suitable for this particular flower. To prepare the soil, take:

• universal primer;
• peat;
• perlite;
• sand.

Mix all the ingredients so that the soil is loose, but remains nutritious. Pour it into a flowerpot on top of the drainage, which should be mandatory. It eliminates the possibility of water stagnation in the flowerpot.

Replant chrysanthemum better method transshipment. This way its roots are less damaged. After transplantation, the plant is watered a little and placed in a well-lit place.

There is no need to apply fertilizers in the first month after transplantation. They will only harm a plant that is not properly rooted. But after a month you can already water the chrysanthemum with nitrogen fertilizers. They are diluted according to the instructions, which are necessarily given with the drug.

When the chrysanthemum takes root and grows a little, you need to cut off the tops of its branches. This is called “pinching” and is done so that the plant begins to send out lateral shoots. Thus, a lush bush will be formed. By autumn it will be covered in color and will look very beautiful. You can pinch flowers twice: in early autumn and early summer. Then they begin to prepare the chrysanthemum for flowering.

roza-i-fialka.ru

How to stimulate chrysanthemum flowering

If a flower lover receives a gift from friends, it is most often a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care is aimed at prolonging flowering. Chrysanthemums are perennials, and they can bloom for several years in a row if they accumulate good energy reserves. A period of winter dormancy with sufficient light, water and fertilizer will increase the plant's ability to produce new buds.

A simple technique helps stimulate the plant to bloom long and abundantly. Here are the basic techniques:

• it is necessary to control the light regime of the chrysanthemum. Good vegetative growth requires natural conditions, that is, 9 - 10 hours of darkness. Draping the plant with black fabric creates the illusion of “night” in city apartments, where electricity is often turned on;
• Water occasionally and generously. The soil should be moist, but not soggy;
• before flowering, organize the light regime according to the standard 12 hours of darkness - 12 hours of light;
• provide the plant with a cool atmosphere during the period of bud release. Homemade chrysanthemums in pots need a temperature of 13 - 16 ° C to form a flower;
• do not forget to pinch the stems;
• remove all small buds and flower buds, leaving only the large ones, one bud on each stem in the center. This should be done when the buds are still small;
• When the flowers open as much as possible, choose the most optimal light position for the pot. The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period. This way the flowers will last longer;
• replanting the chrysanthemum in a larger pot will give more space to the roots. The plant will be able to accumulate more nutrients and moisture, which ensures intense flowering. The optimal pot size is 1.8 liters.

The chrysanthemum needs to be well watered throughout the flowering period.

In the spring, as soon as the chrysanthemum produces green shoots, you need to change the soil in the pot. To do this, carefully remove the plant, put clean soil in the pot, place the chrysanthemum in it and water it. During the same period, it is advisable to feed the chrysanthemum with fertilizer. It is better to use nitrogen agents before flowering, and nitrate ones at the time of flowering.

If you own complete information on how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot, the plant will develop normally and delight the owner with luxurious flowers for several years in a row.

koffkindom.ru

How to replant chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, which are given to us in bouquets, are very easy to root. The desire to plant and grow this miracle on your windowsill or on your plot is commendable, but here it is important to follow correct agricultural techniques.

Instructions

1. If the chrysanthemum is already sitting in your pot, then replanting it in open ground will allow it to take on its natural size and shape. Preparations for replanting a chrysanthemum should begin with its flowering. After flowering, chrysanthemums should be cut off all shoots longer than 10 cm and leave only short petioles. The pot with the plant should be put in a cool room with a temperature of 2-4°C for the winter.
2. With the onset of spring, new shoots begin to grow and are transferred to a warm room. It is necessary to maintain alternating temperatures for chrysanthemums, otherwise it will not bloom. This time is optimal for transplanting the bush into fresh soil in a pot or flowerbed, as well as for rooting shoots. To root flowers from a bouquet, cuttings that have taken root in water should be cut off at the top, leaving 10 cm, and planted in a pot.
3. Young plants should be replanted every year in the spring, older ones every two years, and it is better to divide the bushes during replanting. The main thing is that fresh soil for the bush should not be acidic; otherwise, chrysanthemums are not particularly picky about soil. Add a little sand and humus to ordinary garden soil. During transplantation, the tops of young shoots are pinched, and lignified ones are cut off so that the bush is more branched and even.
4. Before watering, the lump of earth should be moistened and all dried branches and roots should be removed. Pour drainage into the bottom of the pot, insert the bush in the center and sprinkle with new soil on all sides. In order not to replant the chrysanthemum into a larger pot, divide the bush and plant part of the bush back, of course, adding fresh soil. Afterwards, water the bushes and keep the soil moist, as chrysanthemum loves water.

www.kakprosto.ru

Trimming

Chrysanthemums are pruned twice a year. This is done in spring and summer in order to form a beautiful crown of the bush. The first pruning is done in the spring after planting or replanting a flower. The growing point at the top of the shoots is removed from the plant.

• The side shoots immediately begin to grow actively.
• Before our eyes, the chrysanthemum turns into a lush, dense bush.
• About a month later, this procedure is repeated.
• If you grow a spherical variety of chrysanthemums, then it is not necessary to pinch it.
• A lush dome-shaped bush is varietal feature these types of chrysanthemum.

The chrysanthemum is pruned again in the fall, after flowering. First of all, dry, diseased and rotten shoots are cut off to keep the rest of the bush healthy. The remaining shoots are also shortened, since the plant will overwinter in spartan conditions - without watering, fertilizing and light. This will make it easier for him to survive during hibernation.

flowersadvice.ru

Propagating chrysanthemums in a pot

Chrysanthemum propagates in 3 ways:

1. By cuttings.
2. Dividing the bush.
3. Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a rest period, a month before cutting, move the container with the chrysanthemum to a warm, illuminated place (from +10° to +12°).

When 4-6 leaves form on the shoots, you can begin cuttings:

1. It is better to take a high container, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered for the first time.
2. Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1:2:0.5, taking into account that upper layer sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1:1.
3. Place drainage at the bottom of the container - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour soil, and on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Water.
4. Cut off the tops of the stems 10 cm high, making the lower cut under the internode. Remove the lower leaves.
5. Dip the cutting in a growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings 1.5-2 cm into moistened sand at an angle of 45° with a gap of 5 cm between them.
6. Cover the container with glass or film and place the container with the cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from +17° to +20°).
7. Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily.
8. Cuttings take root in 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that appears on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Dividing the bush

A simpler and more reliable way to propagate chrysanthemums is to divide the bush during the period of intensive shoot growth.

From one bush of an overwintered plant you can get up to 6 divisions:

1. Water the bush before dividing.
2. Pour drainage and a mixture consisting of garden and turf soil, sand and humus into a new pot. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
3. Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that each separated part retains the root.
4. Place the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with soil. Do not compact the soil.
5. After transplanting, carefully water the shoots, preferably with a spray bottle, so as not to accidentally wash away the soil.
6. Place the container with the shoots in a bright, warm (but not more than +20°) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the divisions will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Determine the sowing time by the time of flowering:

1. Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus, 2:0.5:1, into the container.
3. Moisten the substrate and place the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, as they need light to germinate. Or sprinkle thin layer light soil.
4. Cover the container with glass or plastic film and put it in a bright room (t from +10° to +15°).
5. Moisten the soil only with a spray bottle.
6. After 7-12 days, shoots will appear. Remove the cover.
7. After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, pick the plant with a gap of 5-10 cm between them.

A month and a half before flowering, plant chrysanthemums in a permanent place.

vogorode.com

Diseases and pests

Chrysanthemum is a late-flowering perennial, characterized by high immunity to diseases and pests. However, she can also get sick.

In order not to put flowers at risk, it is necessary to carefully monitor their condition and take preventive measures in a timely manner. And if it was not possible to avoid the disease, then it is important to know which methods of control are most effective.

Fungal diseases of chrysanthemums

Fungal infections of chrysanthemums are most often caused by poor air circulation, high soil acidity, excess nitrogen fertilizer and high temperature.

Leaf spot, or septoria, of chrysanthemums

The disease manifests itself in the form of spots on the leaves, which initially have yellow, and then gradually become dark brown and black (and may increase in size). The lower leaves are infected first.

Prevention and treatment

1. The first step is to cut off and destroy the affected leaves.
2. For prevention purposes, it is necessary to regularly remove and destroy the remains of dead plants in the garden.
3. If the disease spreads, it is worth using fungicides.

Rust

The infection appears as pale areas on the surface of the leaves, as well as powdery orange spots on the undersides. Severely affected plants become weak and no longer flower properly.

Prevention and treatment

1. Urgent removal of affected leaves.
2. Thinning bushes to ensure better ventilation.
3. When watering, avoid getting moisture on the plants.
4. If the disease has seriously spread, you need to switch to the use of fungicides.

Wilting chrysanthemum leaves

The first symptoms of Fusarium wilt are yellowing and browning of leaves. Infected plants are stunted and often fail to flower. The fungus penetrates plants from the soil through the roots and blocks the flow of water into the chrysanthemum tissue.

Prevention and treatment

1. Removal and destruction of all infected plant parts.
2. Planting wilt-resistant varieties.
3. If the soil already contains Fusarium fungus, which causes wilting, then the soil pH should be increased to 6.5 - 7.0.

Powdery mildew

The leaves are covered with a whitish ash-gray powdery coating. Fungal spores love a humid atmosphere; these are favorable conditions for their growth and reproduction.

Prevention and treatment

1. Removing affected plant material.
2. Use of fungicides.

To combat fungal infections, copper oxychloride and Bordeaux mixture, Fundazol, and 1% colloidal sulfur are most often used.

Viral diseases of chrysanthemums

Of all the viral diseases, chrysanthemums are the most dangerous mosaic.

Plants infected with the virus have a stunted appearance and yellowed foliage. Infected chrysanthemums are stunted and produce small flowers.

Prevention

1. Removal and destruction of affected plants.
2. Timely weed control.

Pests of chrysanthemums

Leaf nematode

Nematodes are unsegmented roundworms that are barely visible to the naked eye. They overwinter in soil or in infected plant material.

Chrysanthemums affected by the nematode become covered with yellow-brown spots. The pest first damages the lower leaves and gradually spreads up the stem. The yellow-brown spots on the leaves eventually merge and cover the entire leaf, which dies, withers and falls off.

Control measures

1. Removal of contaminated plant material along with surrounding soil.
2. In spring, the spread of nematodes will be prevented by mulching.
3. When watering, avoid getting water on the leaves.
4. Foliar sprays containing insecticidal soap are quite effective.

Aphids and spider mites

These insidious insects harm many types of indoor and garden flowers.

Aphids feed on the sap of young plant tissues and infect the underside of leaves, buds and flowers. Massive spread of the pest can cause the death of chrysanthemums.

Spider mites spread in hot and dry weather; they suck out the sap from plants, causing the chrysanthemum to dry out, the flowers become discolored, and the leaves fall off.

Control measures

1. Spider mites and aphids can be removed from the surface of plants with a strong stream of water during watering.
2. Effective use of insecticides and copper-soap solution (20 g copper sulfate and 200 g of green soap per 10 liters of water).

Now you know how to protect chrysanthemums from dangerous diseases and pests. Don’t forget to properly care for your plants – and they will certainly make your flower garden attractive.

www.ogorod.ru

Queen of autumn - chrysanthemum (in myths and legends)

Many legends are dedicated to this wonderful flower. One of them says that an evil dragon decided to steal the Sun from people; but when he grabbed him, the dragon severely burned his paws. Out of anger, the dragon began to tear and trample the fireball. The sun sparks that fell on the Earth turned into white chrysanthemums...

Chrysanthemum flowers seem to connect the light cold of winter and the warm breath of summer. She is rightfully considered the queen of autumn. This unpretentious autumn flower is truly of royal origin.

After all, once in the East luxurious feasts were held in his honor; the image of a chrysanthemum served as a symbol of nobility, happiness and was considered sacred. Many poems, myths and legends are dedicated to him. Today at oriental beauty fans are no less than those of recognized queens - roses and orchids.

History of a flower

How much ancient history this flower is not known for sure, but archaeologists have found images of chrysanthemums on fragments of marble and pottery, in the ornaments of ancient buildings, in patterns of oriental porcelain and even on ancient coins.

• Some claim that the birthplace of the flower is Japan, others say China, and others say East Asia.
• In Japan, the homeland of the chrysanthemum, its image is included in the national emblem; it is a symbol of the sun.
• The Order of the Chrysanthemum is the highest award of this country.

The name of the flower, which comes from the Greek words “chrysos” - golden and “antemos” - flower (golden flower), is not accidental; the ancestors of the chrysanthemum were exclusively yellow.

In Japanese it is called "kiku" - the sun. On the day of "kiku" in the imperial palace, the courtiers admired flowers, drank special chrysanthemum wine, listened to music and wrote poetry.

The chrysanthemum was considered a symbol high position. Only the emperor and members of his family had the right to wear clothes made of fabric with a chrysanthemum pattern. Violation of the law was punishable by death. In the 18th century, the plant was brought to France and it conquered all of Europe.

Chrysanthemum in the East

In Japan, colorful chrysanthemum festivals are held annually, where human-sized dolls are dressed in historical clothes made from chrysanthemum flowers. On this day, the Japanese drink sake with the petals of this wonderful flower - a symbol of happiness and longevity. The participants of the holiday pass cups of drink to each other, wishing for long years happy life.

This flower is no less revered in China, which is also considered the birthplace of the chrysanthemum. Here he personifies loyalty. The legend says that in the hoary old days, when a cruel emperor ruled China, there was a rumor that a chrysanthemum grew on a certain island, from the juice of which an elixir of life could be prepared.

But only a person with a pure heart should pick a flower, otherwise the plant will lose its miraculous power. 300 boys and girls were sent to the island. It’s just unknown whether they found that plant or not. No one returned, the Mikado died, and the youth founded a new state on that island - Japan.

Legends

The 9th day of the 9th month is dedicated to the chrysanthemum in China and Japan, and the flower picked on this day is endowed magical power. In Vietnam, chrysanthemums represent spiritual purity and clarity of mind. In Italy, the chrysanthemum is a symbol of love; a symbol of deep silent sadness; symbol of death.

• In England, chrysanthemums are not so much flowers for bouquets, but funeral flowers. In Europe, white chrysanthemums are considered mourning flowers and a symbol of deep sadness. Wreaths of them are laid on graves in France.
• Perhaps that is why there is a sad legend about their origin. “The poor woman’s son died. She decorated the grave that was dear to her with wildflowers collected along the way until the cold weather set in. Then she remembered the bouquet of artificial flowers that her mother bequeathed as a guarantee of happiness.
• She placed this bouquet on the grave, watered it with tears, prayed, and when she raised her head, she saw a miracle: the entire grave was covered with living chrysanthemums. Their bitter smell seemed to indicate that they were dedicated to sadness.”

Chrysanthemum in Europe

The chrysanthemum appeared in Europe in 1676. It was brought from Japan to England and made by the Dutchman Reede. However, the French believe that chrysanthemums first appeared in Marseille in 1789 and were brought by the French traveler Pierre Blankshire.

• However, the plants they brought were similar to daisies and did not make much of an impression.
• Only after 1829, when the French gardener Berne obtained beautiful varieties as a result of experiments with sowing chrysanthemum seeds, did the public become interested in them.
• Over time, this flower could be seen in almost every English garden - chrysanthemums tolerated English fogs perfectly and bloomed even before the onset of light frosts.
• During the celebration of Schiller's birthday in 1859, the bust of the writer was surrounded by thousands of chrysanthemums, the most diverse in color and shape that then existed.

www.florets.ru

Superstitions and chrysanthemum.

Chrysanthemum balances the energy of logic and intuition, reason, will and feelings. Fills you with peace and self-confidence.

Protects against unnecessary hesitation and doubt. Develops confidence and the missing qualities of the sex: for men - fortitude, for women - tenderness and charm. Brings order to thoughts and emotions. Helps you feel like a real man or a real woman and change your sexual orientation. Develops tolerance and friendliness. For public places. For active, active, creative individuals. Helps strong personalities get along with each other.

Protects against unwanted changes in well-being. Brings balance to nervous system, kidneys, cardiovascular system.

The ancient Chinese claimed that chrysanthemum has wonderful property prolong human life. According to ancient legend, a certain Taoist monk lived about 700 years, and only because he drank dew from chrysanthemum flowers in the morning. Maybe if we follow his example, we too will be able to maintain our youth?

The petals of chrysanthemum flowers are very different: white, pink, golden yellow. They have one thing in common - they are all rich in minerals, so necessary for normal functioning. human body. Please note that the flowers are odorless healing properties do not possess.

Must be added to traditional green tea fragrant petals of chrysanthemum flowers. It is considered to be extremely useful for any infectious disease. Ancient Chinese doctors recommended this tea in case of high fever. They assured that it improves vision, removes toxins from the body, and is good for the liver.

Overheating, colds, dizziness, unstable blood pressure - all these diseases, according to them, can be easily cured with the help of chrysanthemum flower petals. You can believe this, but you can treat it with a fair amount of skepticism. However, even in our time, traditional healers for kidney failure advise eating ice cream, in which several fresh chrysanthemum petals are placed.

To print

Submit an article

Natalia Kuznetsova 01/28/2014 | 4497

In many ways, the growth, development and decorativeness of this herbaceous perennial depend on its formation.

Slowing down growth

Chrysanthemum bushes begin to form from cuttings. First stage - pinching or trimming when the upper part of the rooted cutting is removed. The only difference between them is the size of the detachable top. When pinching, only the tip itself is removed; when pruning, part of the young stem grown from the axillary bud of the cutting is cut off.

These techniques delay the growth of the shoot for some time, thereby promoting better development roots And most importantly, they lead to the removal of the so-called spring bud and stimulate the formation of side shoots. If the cutting is left without pinching, it will quickly stop growing in height and a flower bud will form on it. As a rule, in most varieties this bud is capable of producing only an inferior, deformed inflorescence, which is why it is often called a “blind bud”. The peculiarity is that the growth of the central shoot inhibits and deforms the development of lateral shoots.

After the first pinching or pruning and regrowth of side shoots, the following can be done. The more there are, the more branched the bush becomes and the more inflorescences grow on it.

To obtain huge cut flowers, after the first pinching, only one shoot should be left. In addition, you should break out all the shoots, which develop from the axils of the leaves. Although many foreign farms that grow chrysanthemums for cutting form a bush with several stems.

Increasing the number of flowers

The number of pinches affects not only the height of the plant, but also the size of the inflorescences, although different varieties react differently to this procedure. But, nevertheless, if you take tall varieties, pinching can reduce the height of the plant by 15-25 cm. But flower growers want to get not just a well-formed ornamental bush, but also a plant that will delight you with flowering in late July-August.

As a rule, 30-40 days pass between pinching and budding. Because in conditions middle zone The plant should be pinched no later than the end of May. It is enough to make one pinching when the shoot has at least 6-8 leaves. After pinching the top, 4-6 leaves are left, from the axils of which shoots begin to develop after a few days. With this simplified formation, the bush has 5-6 main, strong shoots, on each of which several lateral ones are formed. And on the shoot there are several inflorescences that open one by one. Such bushes are quite dense, well-leafed, and bloom for up to 2-2.5 months. Since during this time the axillary buds of all the leaves left on the cuttings also awaken, this contributes to the low branching of the bush. It looks like a beautiful oval.

A large number of side shoots, stepsons, buds, and then inflorescences also requires a large influx of nutrients. Already after the first pinching or trimming young plant watered with a weak solution of organic or nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizer.

It is important to remember that these techniques disrupt the natural rhythm of plant development. Therefore, they should not coincide with transshipment or, especially, transfer.

To print

Submit an article

Read also

Reading today

Soil cultivation Yeast as fertilizer for flowers

With fertilizers, you can grow even the most exotic flowers in the garden, and even achieve lush flowering in those that are familiar...

Luxurious inflorescences in autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with their variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from its relatives in the open ground in the compact shape of a spherical bush with a height of 20–40 cm. Breeders have developed several hybrids and varieties adapted to the lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

“Home” chrysanthemums do not require care, grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life it is customary to say “flowers,” although the family Asteraceae has a basket-like inflorescence. When purchasing, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in the pot; caring for it at home will then be much simpler. A well-developed plant intended for indoors will continue to bloom on the windowsill. At favorable conditions buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after self-propagation by cuttings or root suckers, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in a store.

Street chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground or left in a container, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and entrance to the house. After flowering, the stems are cut off, and containers with roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If an outdoor chrysanthemum is kept indoors, its leaves will turn yellow and dry out. These plants need Fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Chrysanthemum varieties for growing in pots

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. The inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as those of open ground plants. Varieties are often grouped according to their origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum indica

In nature it is a relatively low herbaceous plant. The leaves are serrated, green-gray in color. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on windowsills and balconies.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species that had white and pink inflorescences. Breeders using chemicals, affecting growth, received compact forms with a height of 20–25 cm. Today there are a large number of different forms and varieties that feel good in the room and are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its richness of color and long flowering, which is especially attractive in the cold season.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

• "Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with a large number of large yellow inflorescences.
• “Old Gold” - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
• "Morifolium" is a variety with large simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. The leaves are rich green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. Pinpoint glands are visible on the upper side of the leaf blade. The inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums are simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Caring for chrysanthemums at home

They buy a plant at a flower shop or receive it as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for chrysanthemums in a room differs from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature

Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light that is provided when placing the pot on a plastic or window sill is suitable. wooden windows facing west and east. Exposure to rays at midday can cause leaf burns; in this situation, it is recommended to shade the plant. The young bush blooms when the daylight hours are 6–8 hours in October or November (depending on the region).

Comfortable for indoor chrysanthemum temperature - 18–23°C. The variety, which is more demanding in terms of maintenance conditions, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave it in front of an open window; the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and fertilizing

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Chrysanthemum indoors prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnation of water in a pot can lead to rotting of the roots and the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

1. The substrate should not be allowed to dry out.
2. In autumn and winter, water once a week in the morning.
3. Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
4. In hot weather, spray water near indoor plants to reduce air temperature.
5. Use settled water for irrigation and spraying. If it is hard, then a white coating accumulates on the soil surface.
6. Avoid getting drops on the flowers.

Chrysanthemums that bloom profusely require more frequent fertilization. Liquid fertilizing is carried out once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of microelements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. Feed the potted plant about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

Purchased plant long time retains its original shape. If the growth of shoots is not subsequently regulated, several long stems will appear, which reduces the decorative effect.

• Perform pinching of rapidly growing shoots. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will require 2 or 3 treatments.
• Large-flowered hybrids can be formed into a tree by shortening the main shoot and cutting off the lower branches.
• Pinching inflorescences that are beginning to fade helps increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is necessary if flowering is delayed. Selectively pinching the tops of flower stalks will ensure the flow of nutrients to the remaining buds.

Transplanting a plant

Young and old plants need to update the substrate. Transfer to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1:1:1). You can use ready-made soil for indoor flowers.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplantation, young shoots are covered with a plastic glass, adult plants - plastic bag. At first, provide diffused lighting and do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After flowering ends, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some gardeners recommend trimming the stems, leaving short sections above the surface of the substrate. After this, water the soil and put the pot in a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leaving the chrysanthemum in its original form on the window sill in the room. Third option: to stimulate shoot growth and form a compact bush, pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum will sprout new shoots and bloom in the same season.

Propagation of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums “acquire” root suckers (babies). Young plants can be grown from these additional shoots. The root suckers are carefully separated from the mother bush and planted in small containers. It is necessary to maintain the depth of the plant at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic glass. In the autumn of the same year, the young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

1. Young shoots are cut from an adult plant.
2. Fill a transparent plastic container for cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
3. The cuttings are planted and covered with a container lid.
4. After the roots form and new leaves appear, the young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seeds. Hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually, when chrysanthemums are propagated from seeds, varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to lack of light, water, or hot air from the radiator. The appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If the yellowing is due to poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the lack of buds and flowers are lack or excess lighting. Chrysanthemum - plant short day. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and evening, then biorhythms are disrupted. Another reason is related to the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with excess fertilizing and lack of pruning.

Diseases and pests of indoor chrysanthemum

The plant is susceptible to rust, powdery mildew, gray and black rot. These fungal infections are treated with fungicides for indoor plants. Chrysanthemums are harmed by aphids, black sciarid midges, soil mites, and springtails. The leaves are treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, flowers are taken out to the balcony. Window sills and window frames are washed with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, change the top layer of soil in the pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended to be careful when choosing a substrate. Typically, pathogens and plant pests are contained in soil brought from the garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room and to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy and will delight you with flowering for a long time.

In this article we will talk about the “samurai flower” - the chrysanthemum. We will talk about how to care for chrysanthemums, what kind of soil they like and how often the plant needs to be watered. Let's look at possible pests and teach you how to deal with them. We'll tell you how to achieve luxurious chrysanthemum blooms.

Did you know? The chrysanthemum is depicted on coins and the national emblem of Japan. This flower is revered in the country so much that one of the highest awards is called the “Order of the Chrysanthemum”.

Chrysanthemum growing conditions

Chrysanthemum belongs to the genus of annual and perennial herbaceous plants, which includes 29 species. In nature, the flower grows in temperate and northern Asia.

When growing chrysanthemums, you need to follow the rules so that the plant blooms and looks healthy.

The soil

First, let's look at what kind of soil is needed for chrysanthemums.

Chrysanthemum is demanding on the soil, so you need to select a special substrate. The soil must be nutritious, loose and have good drainage properties. Thus, if you have heavy clay soils, then before planting the flower you need to cultivate and add sufficient quantity organic fertilizers. Otherwise, the chrysanthemum will not grow well and will not accumulate enough energy to survive the winter.

Did you know? Chrysanthemum is translated from Greek as “golden-flowered,” since many species have yellow flowers.

Lighting and humidity

Chrysanthemum is a flower of short daylight hours. The plant is planted so that the sun does not burn its petals at midday. The plant is light-loving, but the light should be diffused. If the flower is grown at home, then the flowerpot should be placed on the east or west side. Thus, the plant receives the necessary light and does not “burn out.”

Air humidity should be about 40-50%. Therefore, it only needs spraying in summer or winter (if the flower is kept in the house).

Watering and feeding chrysanthemums

Let's move on to watering and feeding the plant.

Although chrysanthemum is resistant to drought, this should not be taken as a rule. The flower needs to be watered often, but do not moisten the soil too much so that the roots are not affected by rot. Moisten the soil when the top layer of soil dries.

Important! When growing at home, there is no need to install a tray and add water there.

Chrysanthemums love additional feeding. The plant grows well on soils rich in minerals and humus, but the supply of nutrients does not last forever, so fertilizing is necessary and important. The plant loves organic fertilizers in the form of humus and compost. The plant also requires peat for normal growth and development.

Feeding stages

• First stage- after planting in the ground. They use organic matter to which superphosphate is added.
• Second phase– 2 weeks after the growing season. The third fertilizing is applied during the formation of buds (a mixture containing 25 g of phosphorus and 45 g of potassium is added).

Fertilizers for chrysanthemums.

Nitrogen-potassium. They are applied under small-flowered plants. Such fertilizers should contain more potassium than nitrogen (use a mixture containing 25 g of nitrogen, 25 g of phosphorus and 45 g of potassium).

Important! If the soil is oversaturated with nitrogen, the plant stretches, and the buds lose color and become faded.

Nitrogen. Used for tall chrysanthemums with large flowers. In this case, the dose of nitrogen in fertilizers increases (50 g of nitrogen, 25 g of phosphorus and 25 g of potassium). A lack of nitrogen fertilizers leads to the fact that the plant begins to wither, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the flowers become smaller. Nitrogen deficiency is determined by the pallor of the leaves (a healthy flower has a dark green color).

Phosphorus. This element is necessary both during flowering and during the growing season. Phosphorus is especially important for large plants.

Important! A large dose of phosphorus with a small dose of nitrogen increases the preservation of flowers in a bouquet.

Nuances of care

Every plant needs at least minimal care. Chrysanthemum also requires attention, which we will tell you about.

Transfer

Since chrysanthemum is an open ground plant, it needs frequent replanting, which is carried out at least once every 3 years.

Did you know? There is a city in China that is named after a flower - Chu Siena. In this country, the chrysanthemum is considered a symbol of autumn and is one of the “four noble ones”.

Let's start with the autumn plant transplantation. Transplantation into a pot is carried out during flowering, when the temperature at night drops below zero. The new “house” is filled with nutritious soil, and gravel or stones are placed at the bottom of the pot for good drainage.

Place on winter period choose a cool place (+3 ˚С will be the ideal temperature), with low lighting. When the chrysanthemum fades, you need to trim the flower, leaving about 15 cm of the stem, cover it with a paper bag and leave it like that until spring.

Important! When replanting, you need to be careful with the roots. The slightest damage is detrimental to the chrysanthemum.

Spring transplantation is carried out after warming, when the temperature at night does not drop below zero. To begin with, remove the bag from the flowerpot so that new shoots appear. When the chrysanthemum “wakes up”, it can be planted in open ground.

Trimming and pinching

For a plant, pruning and pinching are very important, since after these actions new lateral shoots are formed and the development of the root system improves.

Important! Small-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums are only pinched. No trimming is applied.

Pinching and pruning are techniques during which the upper part of the flower shoot is cut off. The difference between pinching and trimming is the size of the top that is cut off. In order to get a lush bush, you need to prune the chrysanthemum in the spring. Pruning is also carried out if new cuttings are needed. If cuttings are not required, pinch them.

Let's start with pinching. Large-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched when the plant reaches a height of 15 cm. Pinching involves removing the apical bud. Of all the shoots, 2-3 are left, from which all the side shoots and buds are removed, except for the apical one.
Scheme of chrysanthemum bud formation: 1 – spring bud; 2 – first crown; 3 – second crown; 4 – third crown

Pinching small-flowered plants involves the formation of a well-developed crown with a large number of shoots. To do this, trim the shoot above the 5th leaf. Shoots appear from the remaining buds, which are pinched above the 8th leaf. After pinching, we get a plant with lush crown, which produces about 30 inflorescences.

Important! After the first pinching, you need to water the plant with a solution of fertilizers that contain nitrogen.

Chrysanthemum pruning. Most modern chrysanthemum hybrids do not need to trim the buds, however general rule is this: the fewer buds, the larger the flowers. If you want to receive lush inflorescence large diameter - you need to cut off all the side shoots and buds, leaving one main one.

Wintering

If you do not replant the chrysanthemum into a pot for the winter, then you should take care of covering the plant. Let’s write down the “instructions” for preparation.

Preparing the plant for winter begins in early September. The plant is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which increase the frost resistance of the flower. After feeding, dry branches are cut off and checked for diseases (if the flower is sick, we treat it, and only then continue replanting). After processing and checking, the chrysanthemum is hilled up and the soil around the plant is leveled. Before planting chrysanthemums before winter, you need to shorten the stem so that no more than 10 cm remains.

The plant has been prepared, now it’s time to build a shelter. To do this, bricks are placed around the bush, and boards are placed on top of them. Such a structure will protect the plant from freezing and will not allow it to “suffocate.” In this case, it is important to follow the following rules: do not cover chrysanthemums until severe frosts, as they can rot from excess moisture; the shelter should not be very heavy or dense.

Another option (more complex in terms of execution) suggests the following: dig a trench 50 cm deep and 0.7 m wide; Dig up the chrysanthemum bushes (save a ball of soil on the roots) and place them in the trench. You need to cover everything on top with dry leaves or straw. When frosts begin, you need to cover the trench with metal or slate leaves and fill it with earth (the layer should be about 12-15 cm).

Important! The disadvantage of the second method is the inability to check the bushes. They can wake up earlier and sprout sprouts that begin to stretch towards the light. In this case, the plant will spend a lot of energy and may die.

Chrysanthemum propagation

Chrysanthemum can be propagated in three ways:

• cuttings
• dividing the bush,
• seeds.

We will tell you about these methods, and you decide which option suits you best.

Cuttings

The best option for cutting chrysanthemums is the period from March to the end of May. Early varieties are cut in March or April, late varieties in April or May. During intensive flower growth, it is often watered and fertilized once every 2 weeks. Cuttings are broken out (less often cut) from shoots that have at least 4 leaves (the cutting itself should also have 3-4 leaves).

Important! After pruning plants, the tool must be disinfected to prevent the transfer of diseases.

On the cut cuttings, remove the most bottom sheet, others save. The shoot is planted in a substrate that “breathes” and allows moisture to pass through. To do this, use peat, perlite or a mixture of turf soil, peat and sand (in equal parts). The soil layer must be at least 10 cm.

Before planting, it is moistened. The cuttings are planted to a depth of 1.5 cm so that future roots receive maximum nutrients. When planting, you need to maintain the temperature around 17 ° C (higher temperatures can lead to rotting of the shoot). Don't forget about lighting, which is very important for photosynthesis. At night, 100 W lamps are used for additional illumination.

In the first week after planting, you need to regularly moisten the soil and air. Watering is carried out once every 2 days.

The rooting period of cuttings in January-March is 24-25 days, in April-May - about 18 days.

After rooting, the chrysanthemum plant is fed 2 times a week with complete mineral fertilizers.

Did you know? Chrysanthemum tea is very popular in Asia. Tea from this flower has healing properties and protects the body from cardiovascular diseases.

Dividing the bush

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by dividing the bush. To do this, dig up the plant immediately after flowering and thoroughly wash the roots. If the bush is very tall, it should be pruned so that the flower does not experience a lack of moisture (the longer the shoot, the more it evaporates).

The central lignified shoots are also removed. Next, a part from the peripheral part (you don’t need to use a knife) with developed buds is broken out and used for planting.

Before planting, you need to dig a hole of the same depth as the one you were sitting on. mother bush. After planting, the young plant is watered abundantly.

Seeds

Let's move on to growing chrysanthemums from seeds at home. This method can be used to grow both annual and perennial plants.

You can sow the seeds directly into the ground, or you can sow them in a pot. When sowing in open ground, seeds are placed in holes (the distance between holes is 25 cm), 2-3 pieces at a time, watered warm water and sprinkle with earth. A week after sowing, you need to feed the plant with highly diluted liquid fertilizer. When young chrysanthemums grow to 10 cm in height, it is worth leaving the strongest one out of 2-3 plants. Planting in open ground is carried out in May.

The disadvantage of planting in open ground is the flowering time of chrysanthemums, which will only occur at the end of August.

When sowing in a pot, the start of “work” is postponed to the end of February. To do this, take shallow boxes, put drainage in the form of gravel at the bottom and fill them with earth (soil + peat + humus in equal quantities). When sowing perennial chrysanthemums, the seeds are left on the surface, annual ones are placed at a depth of 5 mm.

After this, the ground is sprayed with water, covered with glass or film and placed in a warm place (+24-25 ˚С). Periodically, crops need to be checked, sprayed with warm water and ventilated. Young plants sprout 14 days after planting.

If the seedlings have sprouted densely, then after 3-4 “real” leaves appear, they are transplanted into cups or other, larger containers.

Important! Before transplanting, you need to moisten the soil so as not to damage the young roots of the plants.

Immediately after transplantation, the plants are sprayed with the Zircon preparation so that the chrysanthemum takes root better.

After the most difficult stage, caring for young plants comes down to maintaining the temperature at 16-18˚C.

Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June.

This completes propagation by seeds. After transplanting into open ground, the care conditions are the same as for an adult plant.

Main pests, ways to combat them

Aphids appear very often on chrysanthemums, so this is the first pest on our list that we will help you deal with.

Aphids not only deprive the plant of its strength, but are also carriers of diseases, so it needs to be dealt with the sooner the better.

Traditional methods of control offer a huge number of “drugs” to combat aphids. Here are the most popular:

• decoction of dry onion leaves (used at any time, chilled);
• garlic tincture (crushed garlic is infused for 2 hours; the infusion is diluted with water and the plant is sprayed every 3-4 hours);

If traditional methods are not suitable for you, then you can use the following drugs:

Another unpleasant “guest” for your flower. It can only be seen with a magnifying glass, but small cobwebs on the plant can be seen with the naked eye.

These mites, like aphids, suck the juices of the plant. They bite through cells and feed nutrients flower. With severe damage, the leaves lose color and dry out.

Important! Greatest harm spider mites applied in dry and hot weather.

Let's consider methods of pest control.

• Ultraviolet light. The mite does not tolerate ultraviolet radiation, so once a week, using a home ultraviolet lamp, it is enough to illuminate the flower for 2-3 minutes.
• Alcohol processing. The entire plant is wiped with 96% alcohol, applying a small layer of solution with cotton wool. The treatment is repeated after a week.

Traditional methods of dealing with ticks:

• garlic tincture (500 g of chopped garlic is poured into 3 liters of water and infused for 5 days in a dark place; 60 ml of infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water and 50 g of soap is added);
• chamomile tincture (1 kg of dry crushed chamomile is poured into 10 liters of hot water and left for 14 hours; the solution is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 and soap is added);
• tincture of dandelion (0.5 kg of fresh leaves are infused for 2-4 hours in water at 40˚C; treatment is carried out after the leaves bloom and after flowering).

Remember! The mite may return to the plant, so after treating the chrysanthemum, you need to disinfect everything within a radius of 1 square meter. m from the flower.

These are small worms that cannot be seen with the naked eye. After damage by a nematode, black dead tissue appears on the plant in the form of spots, which are located between the veins of the leaf.

There are some varieties of chrysanthemums that are resistant to nematode damage:

• Sunflower,
• Katie Ernst,
• Bergatet.

To rid a plant of a nematode, you need to heat treat the plant with warm water at 45˚C. You also need to remove the affected parts of the plant mechanically.

If the previous measures did not help, then, unfortunately, the plant must be destroyed along with the soil in which it grew.

Important! When planting new plants, you should avoid land plots, where plant damage by nematodes was observed.

Diseases of chrysanthemums, their treatment

Gray mold is a fungus. When a flower is infected, brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow to the edges of the leaf. Rot can “migrate” from the leaves to the stem, forming light brown spots on it.

Ultimately, the flower turns into a wet brown mass and dies. All affected parts of the plant are covered with a dense gray coating of the fungus.

The main reason for the development of fungus is increased humidity in the air and soil. Rot most often develops in spring and autumn on cuts and “wounds” of the plant.

To get rid of gray rot, use the following fungicides:

• "Ronilan FL 0.15%",
• "Rovral 50 SP 0.15%",
• "Sumilex 50 NP 0.1%",
• "Fundazol 50 SP 0.1%."

Powdery mildew affects the plant in late July - August. This happens due to the accumulation of dew on the leaves, when using a large amount of nitrogen fertilizers or a lack of potassium.

To get rid of the disease, you need:

• ensure regular watering,
• ventilation and good lighting plants.
• remove diseased and dried leaves from the plant.

The following drugs can also be used:

• "Anvil 5 SK 0.06%",
• "Bayleton 25 SP 0.05%",
• "Triadimefon 25 SP 0.05%",
• "Sistan 12 CE 0.03%."

Important! Different varieties of chrysanthemums exhibit different sensitivity to chemicals, so you need to test spray a small area before fully treating the plant.

A microscopic fungus, infection of which manifests itself in the form of small yellowish-green spots on the leaves. Gradually, the color of the leaves changes to yellow with black dry spots, then dies.

The fungus curls the leaves down, causing the chrysanthemum to change its appearance.

To get rid of the disease, you need to feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The bush should be sprayed with fungicides (Fundazol or 1% colloidal sulfur). All affected leaves are torn off and burned outside the site.

When affected by root canker, growths form on the plant (very similar to tumors in animals). The causative agent of the disease lives in the soil. When a chrysanthemum is damaged, the cancer quickly grows and destroys the plant. There is no cure for this disease, so the bush is dug up and burned.

Important! It is necessary to disinfect the soil after the affected chrysanthemum before planting other plants.

To prevent cancer from affecting your plant, you need to carry out prevention. It is necessary to dig up the soil in the fall and remove all plant debris from the site. Also take care to improve drainage.

Chrysanthemum spotting, or septoria blight, appears as pale areas on the leaves. On back side orange spots appear on the leaf. Septoria blight is also caused by microscopic fungi that are dangerous to the plant.

To get rid of the disease, you need to remove and burn the affected leaves, spray with fungicides:

• "Polycarbacin (30-40 g/10 l)",
• “Chomecin (40 g/10 l)”,
• "Cuprozan (50 g/10 l)."

You can recommend this article to your friends!

59 once already
helped

Many chrysanthemums begin to produce buds almost immediately after planting. They are cut off to allow the small and fragile bush to gain strength until the fall.

The main method of forming a bush is pinching, which must be carried out throughout June.

The formation of a bush will contribute to more abundant flowering.

Korean chrysanthemums are the simplest, they do not require special shaping. When planting plants in the ground, the soil must be well compacted, otherwise there will be strong shoot growth and weak flowering. In the first days after planting, abundant watering is necessary.Be sure to pinch the shoot when it has 6-8 leaves.

The methods for forming hybrid small-flowered and large-flowered chrysanthemums differ.

The purpose of forming small-flowered chrysanthemums is to obtain a well-developed crown with a large number of shoots and inflorescences. To do this, pinch the tip of the shoot above the 4-5th leaf in young plants. From the remaining buds, 2-4 shoots appear, which are also pinched over the 7-8th leaf. The result is a plant with a beautiful crown; it produces 20-40 inflorescences or more.

You can also get a standard form of the plant. To do this, the main shoot is grown to the required height, the top is pinched and all side shoots are removed, leaving only 2-4 on top, the pinching of which is repeated 2-3 times until a well-developed crown is obtained.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched at a height of 10-15 cm, removing the apical bud, since the central shoot, as a rule, produces a poorly formed and small inflorescence. Of the resulting shoots, 1-3 are left, from which all lateral shoots and buds are removed, except for the apical one.

When forming bushes, it should be taken into account that the interval between the last pinching and the beginning of flowering is approximately 30 days.

In addition to pinching, shoots developing from the axils of the leaves are removed from large-flowered chrysanthemums, that is, they are pinched. At the same time as the shoots, the side buds are also plucked out. They do this every day starting in mid-July, and once every 3 days in August and September. Stepchildren should be removed when they can be easily plucked out with your fingers without touching the stem and leaves.

Pinching buds is also a technique usually used for large-flowered chrysanthemums. It consists of choosing the best inflorescence. But in order to decide which bud to bet on, you need to know how their development is progressing.

The first bud, zero or spring, appears in May - early June. But its development is suppressed by the second-order shoot that follows it, on which a bud develops, called the first crown. However, it may not develop due to the growth of a 3rd order shoot, at the end of which a bud also develops - this is the second crown bud, and then the third crown bud appears.

Observations over many years have established that flowers best quality are formed from the first or second crown bud. Therefore, one of them is left and the other is removed. They also get rid of the spring and third crown buds.

In medium- and small-flowered varieties, buds can also be pinched. On these chrysanthemums, the best inflorescences form the second crown buds after pinching them twice. The size of the flowers can be further increased if you leave 3-5 flowering shoots on the bush and one inflorescence on each.

Many varieties of chrysanthemums are more than 1 meter in height. Such bushes may fall apart and look sloppy after windy weather, and therefore require additional support. You can use wooden or metal rods for individual shoots, as well as circular supports for the entire bush.