Covering the internal contour with ISOPLAAT, ISOTEX panels. Isoplat - windproof and heat and sound insulating boards for house cladding Isoplat board application
Installation of heat and sound insulating boards ISOPLAT on walls and ceilings
Requirements:
ISOPLAT sheets are used for finishing, leveling, increasing sound insulation and thermal insulation in rooms with dry and normal humidity levels.
Installation must be carried out within the period finishing works, i.e. after all “wet” processes that can significantly increase the humidity in the room have been completed. Electrical and plumbing installations have also been completed.
Work must be carried out in dry and normal humidity conditions.
Before installation, keep ISOPLAT sheets for 1-2 days in the same room in order to equalize the humidity. Place the sheets vertically, place spacers to allow air access and avoid sheet curvature.
If, when installing on a frame structure made of wooden beam(on the sheathing) there is a horizontal joint of two sheets, then their fastening and joining should be done on a horizontal block (mortgage). Adjacent horizontal joints must be offset vertically relative to each other.
When finishing the openings of windows and doors, do not allow the sheets to join at the corners of the opening.
ISOPLAT sheet has one side smooth, the other wavy. Installation is carried out with the smooth side facing out. Those. smooth side wall panel thermal insulation is used for finishing.
Ceiling sheathing with ISOPLAT sheets requires mandatory fastening with nails in increments of 2 times more often than for a wall. It is recommended to use wide “bug” type caps. For the best sound insulation effect, multi-layer sheathing is recommended, for example, a gypsum plasterboard sheet is attached closely to the Izoplat, additionally supporting the ISOPLAT sheet and enhancing the insulating effect. See section "Soundproofing".
The placement of electrical wiring in the space of the sheathing frame must exclude the possibility of damage to it by fasteners (nails, staples, etc.)
IMPORTANT! Do not prime the ISOPLAT board with a regular primer! Useless and harmful!
Installation procedure for ISOPLAT slabs on a vertical wooden frame (sheathing).
For the manufacture of frame structure A wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 45x45 is used as a partition or cladding of the base wall. The pitch of the frame posts depends on the thickness of the slab. Fastening is carried out using galvanized nails with a wide head or construction staples made of of stainless steel or coated. The length of the fastener depends on the thickness of the slab. Along the perimeter of the sheet, nails are nailed every 100-150 mm, inside the sheet every 300 mm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 10-20 mm.
ISOPLAT plate 12 mm thick.
The frame strut pitch (center-to-center distance) is 280 mm.
The length of the nails is at least 40 mm, the length of the staple is at least 32 mm.
ISOPLAT plate 25 mm thick.
The frame strut pitch (center-to-center distance) is 600 mm.
The length of the nails is at least 70 mm, the length of the staple is at least 58 mm.
IMPORTANT! Do not prime the slab with a regular primer!
The procedure for installing ISOPLAT slabs to a stone (concrete, etc.) wall using glue. Frameless installation.
If stone surface If it is fairly flat, you can do without sheathing. Sheets of Isoplats are glued directly to the wall, due to which the interior space of the room is gained.
Glue selection:
- For experienced craftsmen glue for plasterboard (dry mixture based on gypsum or cement, brand of your choice) or glue for mineral wool(on a cement basis, for example, CERESIT ST 190 or BAUMIT StarKontakt).
- simple and most effective method- polyurethane foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL, etc.).
The adhesive can be applied both to the wall and to the sheet. Depends on the glue manufacturer's instructions. For example, if the base is flat, the glue is applied to the sheet in a 50 mm wide strip using a notched trowel around the perimeter and in three rows inside the sheet. If the base is uneven, the glue is applied in a thick layer of at least 10 mm, as shown in the photo, or on the wall in plaques.
Foam is applied to the sheet along the perimeter and in three rows along the length inside the sheet. The distance between the rows of foam is approximately 30 cm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is 3 cm. The foam can also be applied in a zigzag, as shown in the photo. For a sheet with a thickness of 12 mm, in order to prevent subsequent swelling of the thin sheet, you should wait a few minutes after applying the foam so that the foam expands as much as possible.
Then the ISOPLAT sheet is lifted, installed on 10-12 mm pads, pressed against the wall and leveled. The sheet must be pressed against the surface to be glued for at least 15 minutes. It is recommended to additionally press the glued sheet to the wall with screws. At least 9 pcs. 3 in a row per sheet. Screws will also help to fit the joints of two sheets. After the glue has dried, the screws can be removed. Fill the voids in the seams with glue or foam to prevent the formation of cracks along the joints after puttying. When using glue or foam, it is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations: types of surfaces to be glued, adhesion time, pressing time, etc.
Before subsequent (finishing) finishing, you must wait at least 24 hours for the sheet to dry completely.
Attention! Typically, the outermost sheets on a pallet (applies to thin sheets 12 mm thick) may have slight surface curvature due to the high elasticity and natural properties of wood. The sheet easily straightens when mounted on a frame structure, or when laid on a floor or ceiling as an insulating absorbent layer in a multilayer structure in combination with rigid sheets, such as gypsum board. For gluing to the wall, it is recommended to lightly moisten such sheets using a hand sprayer, lay them on a solid, straight base or on the floor and press them on top with a small weight. Leave for 24 hours.
The procedure for installing ISOPLAT slabs on the ceiling.
It is recommended to attach Isoplat sheets to the ceiling on a wooden frame or metal profile. The pitch of the posts and the length of the fasteners are the same as for mounting on a wooden frame indicated above. The fastening spacing is twice as frequent as on a vertical frame (wall). Fasteners: nails with a wide head or screws with a “bug” head. Then a gypsum board sheet is mounted on top of the Isoplat sheet. Further finishing of the gypsum board sheet is carried out in the usual manner. It is not recommended to glue Izoplat sheet to the ceiling.
Preparation of ISOPLAT sheet for finishing.
Puttying of joints is carried out using reinforcing mesh regular putty(for example, the brand does not matter, but it is advisable to choose a ready-made one in plastic buckets, since there optimal quantity water). Preliminarily along the joints of the installed sheets using sandpaper make a recess 2-3 mm and 50-60 mm wide. Regular putty is applied in the area where the sheets meet to the specified width, the reinforcing tape is laid along the joint and smoothed with a spatula while removing excess putty. Do not allow the putty to be completely squeezed out from under the tape. After the first layer of putty has dried (12-24 hours), a covering layer is applied. The recesses formed by nail heads or staples should also be filled with putty. After drying, the putty surface is sanded and the entire surface is primed. water-based paint. Smooth surface ISOPLAT slabs are used for wallpapering, painting, and finishing with plaster. For best result in case of high requirements for surface quality, as a rule, continuous finishing putty. Then prime the surface with water-based paint. Further finishing of the puttied and primed surface is carried out according to standard methods.
Advice! Primer with water-based paint gives white base under the wallpaper. Plus: the brown dark background will not be visible through the wallpaper. Another plus: if you re-glue the wallpaper, you can easily soak and remove the old wallpaper without damaging the surface of the slab. You won't have to putty again.
Description of installation of ISOPLAT sheets to diagrams 1-5
- Fasteners are used for a frame structure or partition made of wooden beams: galvanized nails with a wide head or staples. The distance from the edge of the slab is 10-20 mm. The fastening pitch along the edge is 100-150 mm and in the center of the sheet - 280 mm.
- TO wooden surface ISOPLAT sheets are nailed or stapled according to a pattern similar to fastening to a wooden frame. The distance between rows of fasteners is 300-400 mm.
- Fasteners for ISOPLAT sheets with a thickness of 12 and 25 mm, respectively. Nails and staples.
- To cover stone (concrete) walls with ISOPLAT sheets, polyurethane foam (for example, MACROFLEX, PENOSIL) or drywall adhesive (for example, the brand does not matter) is used. The main wall to be covered must be smooth and free of dust (primed).
- Glue is applied to reverse side slabs at a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the slab. In the central part of the slab, glue dots with a diameter of 50 mm are applied in increments of approximately 280 mm.
On wooden wall(timber) ISOPLAT sheets are nailed in increments of 300-400 mm according to the same principle as for wooden sheathing.
Installation of sheets of Scandinavian windproof board ISOPLAT
Scandinavian windproof ISOPLAAT plate- this is a sheet with a format of 2700x1200 mm. Thickness 12 or 25 mm. The edge of the sheet is straight.
ISOPLAT sheets are installed vertically to the wall frame structure (for example, a wall frame house from a board 150x50 or lathing on aerated concrete from timber 50x50 mm). In this case, one sheet covers three vertical posts. The distance between the frame posts from their centers should be 600 mm (see drawing 1).
ISOPLAT sheets are nailed with galvanized nails or professional construction staples along the entire perimeter of the sheet: vertically to the frame posts, horizontally to the strapping elements or to the mortgages. And in the center of the sheet, where auxiliary markings are applied in the center on the painted side.
Horizontal joints of two sheets that do not fall on the strapping element are reinforced with a mortgage (board/beam at least 50x50 mm), to which the edges of the slabs are nailed. The mortgage is installed on the inside of the frame structure between vertical posts and is attached to them with metal corners. The boards are secured using nails or staples. To facilitate installation, there is a longitudinal strip in the center of the sheet.
The height of the base must be at least 40 cm.
If a ventilated façade (lining, siding, etc.) is planned as decorative wall cladding, it is recommended to install wooden blocks or slats (lathing) immediately after installing the slabs to provide additional rigidity (as shown in the photo on the left, also pay attention to base height).
Windproof boards should be covered with external façade cladding no later than one month after their installation. To ensure moisture exchange, an air (ventilated) gap of 20-50 mm wide is created between the slab and the sheathing.
Fastening 12 mm wind protection plate
Galvanized nails with a wide head no less than 40 mm long or staples no less than 32 mm long are used (see Figure 3). The nailing distance from the edge of the slab must be at least 10 mm. Nails/staples are driven along the edge of the slab at intervals of 100 mm and in the center of the slab at intervals of 200 mm (see Figure 4). There are markings in the center of the slab to facilitate fastening. The consumption of nails is approximately 25 pcs/m2.
Attaching a 25 mm wind barrier plate
Galvanized nails with a wide head no less than 70 mm long or staples no less than 58 mm long are used (see Figure 3). The nailing distance from the edge of the slab must be at least 10 mm. Nails/staples are driven along the edge of the slab at intervals of 100-150 mm and in the center of the slab at intervals of 280 mm (see Figure 5). There are markings in the center of the slab to facilitate fastening. The consumption of nails is approximately 15 pcs/m2.
fastening a windproof board how to properly fasten a windproof board diagram of a windproof board
Installation of ISOPLAT 25 mm roofing slab
For installation roofing slabs the distance between the rafters should be 600-700 mm, the roof slope should be over 20 degrees. Installation begins from the bottom and left, laying the slabs across the rafters (see drawing 1). After cutting to the size of the last roofing slab of the row, start the next row from the same cut part of the slab (see Figure 2). This prevents overlap of the end seams. Each slab must cross at least two rafters. The installation procedure is shown in drawings 1-5.
Fastening the roof slab
Galvanized nails 70 mm long are used to fasten roofing slabs. The joints of end tenons, grooves, ridges and hole penetrations must be sealed to ensure water resistance (see Figure 6). Simultaneously with fastening the roofing slabs, spacer strips (lathing) and slats are also attached. roofing(see drawing 4). You cannot stand on slabs in places located between the rafters.
Ruler sheet materials, intended for insulation and finishing of buildings, has been replenished with a new trademark.
Its name, Isoplat, still means little to most developers. Therefore, the purpose of this article is a detailed and objective description of this material.
What is Isoplat?
In short, Isoplat is a soft fiberboard, abbreviated as MDVP. It is made from fibers coniferous species wood. Country of origin: Estonia, manufacturer: Skano Fiberboard.
Before wood becomes a slab, it undergoes several stages of processing. First, the starting material - wood chips - is scalded with steam and softened in hot water. After this, it is ground to obtain a liquid fibrous mass and poured onto the conveyor belt. Vacuum pumps Excess moisture is removed from the wood “carpet”, subjected to hot pressing and dried in tunnel chambers. Final stage– cutting into standard sheets with a thickness of 4 to 50 mm.
Manufacturers claim that Isoplaat technology does not use glue. The fibers in the boards are connected by a natural polymer - lignin. It is contained in any coniferous wood and is activated by intense heat and pressure.
Now let's see where it is used this material and what properties it has.
Scope of application
Isoplat sheets are used for roof insulation, as well as as wind protection for the walls of frame buildings. In addition, a plate designed for internal warmth and soundproofing of premises. Thin sheets (4-7 mm) have proven themselves as a substrate for floor coverings(parquet, laminate).
The material used for external work (wind protection of walls, roof insulation) is treated with liquid paraffin to increase its moisture-proof properties. It is placed on the wall frame before installation exterior finishing(siding, blockhouse). Izoplat is laid on the roof before installing metal tiles, slate, sheet metal or bitumen shingles. Roofing and windproof slabs have a tongue-and-groove joining edge. It increases the tightness of joints and simplifies installation.
The Isoplat plate for interior work (cladding walls, ceilings, lining under laminate) does not have paraffin impregnation and does not have a joining edge. Its front side is made denser and smoother (for finishing).
physical characteristics
The thermal conductivity of the Izoplat plate is comparable to mineral wool (0.045 W/(m*K). However, due to its small thickness, this material cannot be considered as independent thermal insulation. The best option– support for the main insulation.
The moisture resistance of windproof boards treated with paraffin is quite high. However, manufacturers do not recommend leaving them open for more than 2 months. Negative point– change in leaf geometry under the influence of moisture. When moistened, the wood fiber material forms “waves”. At external installation this is not so critical (the slab is covered by the outer cladding).
When installed internally, this leads to opening of the seams and warping. Therefore, before finishing, all joints must be glued with reinforcing tape and puttied, and the slab must be securely fixed to the wall.
The high vapor permeability of MDVP boards is explained by their fibrous structure. Using this material for wind protection, you can do without a film vapor barrier.
Sound insulation ability is one of the main advantages of this material. For this reason, it is actively used to reduce noise levels in rooms (by 23-26 decibels).
The density of the panels ranges from 230 to 270 kg/m3.
The fire resistance of Izoplat slabs fully complies with the standards fire safety. The fibrous material prevents the spread of fire. Under the influence of a flame, it becomes charred and the ash blocks the access of oxygen to inner layers wood.
Biostability. Wood fiber is exposed to hot water, pressure and high temperature. As a result, substances (sugar, starch) are washed out and broken down, which serve as a breeding ground for fungus and mold.
The manufacturer claims that the environmental characteristics of this material are at the level natural wood. Since the material does not contain dangerous chemicals or toxic glue, it is hypoallergenic and can be used in children's rooms.
Duration of operation - 50 years. This is the period for which the manufacturer provides a guarantee.
Dimensions
The standard size of a windproof and heat and sound insulating board is 2700 by 1200 mm (thickness from 12 to 50 mm). The tongue-and-groove windproof board has smaller dimensions of 2400x800 mm.
Roofing Isoplat, equipped with a joining edge, is cut into sheets of 1875 by 1200 mm, 1800 by 600 mm, and also in sizes 2500 by 750 (with a thickness of 12 and 25 mm).
The sheets used as a backing for laminate and parquet have a length of 850 mm and a width of 590 mm (thickness from 4 to 7 mm).
Prices
The estimated price in 2017 for heat-sound-insulating and windproof slabs 12 mm thick is 250-300 rubles/m2. For thicker material (25 mm) you will have to pay an average of 500-600 rubles/m2.
Roofing Isoplat (25 mm) is sold at a price of 700 rubles/m2.
Most thin material for lining under laminate (4 mm) can be purchased for 130 rubles/m2. A thicker 7 mm substrate will cost no less than 190 rubles/m2.
Reviews
Isoplat for external cladding houses and roofs are used more actively than the material intended for interior decoration walls The manufacturer’s desire to introduce its products into all types of facing work is logical and understandable. However, in the reviews of those who used Izoplat MDVP to decorate walls indoors, one can find many complaints.
The first group of complaints relates to the consumption of glue for attaching sheets and the evenness of the surface on which they are placed. The actual amount of adhesive is much higher than what the manufacturer recommends. In addition, the walls under the Isoplat must be perfectly smooth. In those places where there are minor depressions on the surface, it does not stick well.
The second minus relates to the joints. If you do not reinforce them with reinforcing mesh, then the next day after installation you will see that they have come apart. After some time, the joints of the plates converge. This behavior is caused by changes in air humidity, which results in fluctuations in leaf size.
The third unpleasant surprise for beginners concerns the operation of preparing slabs for wallpapering. The primer consumption is high, since the Isoplat plate for interior wall decoration is very hygroscopic. And even after complete saturation with the primer, there is no guarantee that the wallpaper will adhere tightly to it.
Let's open little secret. In the homeland of this material, Estonia, wallpaper is not glued to it. Therefore, experts advise everyone who is faced with this problem to first paint over sheets of breathable acrylic paint and after that glue the wallpaper. It is clear that the labor intensity and cost of such “finishing” does not please anyone.
Fortunately, Izoplat slabs have a “twin brother” - a material called Isotex, produced by the same manufacturer. Wallpaper is glued onto it at the factory or decorative textiles, which behave flawlessly during operation. The only negative is the small selection of colors and textures of Isotex boards.
On the material used for the substrate, outer skin walls and roof insulation, we did not find any serious complaints. The only remark concerns the use of slabs with a tongue-and-groove connection for wind protection.
Sheets with a straight edge are not very convenient to work with. For them, it is necessary to design the arrangement of frame racks so that the joints of the slabs fall at their centers. In this case, the free space between the racks is less than standard width insulation (600 mm). Mineral wool has to be cut, which increases the amount of waste, labor intensity and cost of insulation.
It should also be noted the high price of Izoplat slabs compared to other types of cladding (plasterboard, lining) and insulation (mineral wool, ecowool). This factor forces the buyer to think carefully before making a purchase.
Installation features
For installation of Izoplata indoors, experts recommend purchasing material with a thickness of at least 25 mm. A 12 mm thick sheet is less rigid and often forms “waves” when humidity fluctuates.
The panels need to be allowed to “rest” for several days in the room where they will be installed. This prevents the material from deforming after installation.
Fastening slabs to brick and concrete walls carried out using glue and screws. For work, you can use drywall adhesive or polyurethane foam. The thickness of the glue must be at least 10 mm with a layer width of 5 cm.
The distance between strokes is chosen within 30 cm. The glue distance from the edge of the sheet is at least 3 cm. After applying the glue, the sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and kept in this position for 15-20 minutes. After this, the plate is fixed with galvanized dowels, deepening their heads into the sheets by 1-2 mm, and the installation sites are puttied.
As we have already said, before finishing the Izoplat slab must be primed, and its joints must be reinforced with sickle mesh and puttied.
Installation of wind protection and roof insulation
Installation of Isoplat on a wooden frame, walls and roof is carried out with stainless steel construction staples, galvanized nails with a wide head or screws with flat heads. During the sheathing process, a gap of at least 2 mm is left between the sheets.
The sheathing pitch when installing panels on the roof depends on their thickness.
For 12 mm sheets it should be no more than 30 cm, and for 25 mm sheets no more than 60 cm.
Nails and staples are driven in at a distance of at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet. The interval between fastening points at the edges of the panels should be no more than 10 cm. In the middle part of the sheets, the recommended fastening spacing is 20 cm.
Windproof boards are fixed to the walls at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground surface, using a starting strip. Panels with straight edges are installed in a vertical position.
Plates with a 4-sided tongue-and-groove joint are placed in horizontal rows.
To remove water vapor from the windproof board, it is necessary to create a gap 3 to 5 cm wide. To do this, installed panels a wooden block (counter batten) is stuffed and the external cladding of the walls and roof is attached to it.
Laying panels on the floor
Installation of the Izoplat substrate on the floor can begin after keeping it indoors for 24 hours. To speed up the process, leveling the moisture content of the material with the humidity of the air, spacers made of wooden blocks are placed between the sheets in increments of 30 cm.
The base for laying the material must be dry (humidity no more than 5%) and level (protrusions and depressions of no more than 1 mm per 2 meters of room length are allowed).
Working with MDVP substrate is easy. This material is easy to cut with a knife, and to lay it you need a minimum of tools: a square and a tape measure. Installation of sheets is carried out at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the direction of laying the laminate or parquet board. This method prevents the seams in the lining and the floor covering from matching.
When installing the lining, a deformation gap of 0.5-1 cm is left between it and the wall. To enhance contact with the floor slab or cement screed the substrate can be fixed to them using glue.
The problem of home insulation is especially pressing for our compatriots living in the harshest climatic conditions on the planet. Practice often shows that many advertised insulating materials They simply cannot cope with our frosts in the form of use in which the manufacturer advises them to be used. But with isoplat everything is different; it really shows its effectiveness when used even in the Siberian climate.
The isoplat is based on compressed sawdust of coniferous wood. To turn sawdust into slabs, they are impregnated with paraffin, then placed in molds and dried. The factor that holds sawdust together is also the release of lignin from wood, which occurs during wetting and pressing.
The result is a slab that can be used in a number of areas of activity, allowing you to effectively insulate both walls and floors with ceilings. In the case of floors, this material is used as both an insulating and soundproofing component, and can be easily combined with laminate or screed.
This material has been known since Soviet times, and then the main direction of its use was floors, where isoplat was used to reduce noise levels. Since then, its scope has expanded significantly, and modern models These sheets are widely used in frame construction, including in the Scandinavian countries.
Specifications
- Length – 2700 millimeters;
- Width – 1200 millimeters;
- Width – 12-25 millimeters;
- Weight – 9-18 kilograms;
- Density – approximately 260 kilograms per cubic meter;
- Heat capacity – 2100 J/kgK;
- Sound insulation coefficient – 26 dB.
Advantages of isoplat
- The material consists of one hundred percent natural components that are completely safe for health. Can be used for isolation in children's rooms;
- High insulating qualities that protect against cold and wind. The stove can be used in regions with the harshest climates;
- Izoplat can be used either individually or in combination with other insulating materials, such as mineral wool;
- When high humidity indoors, isoplats can draw excess moisture out, which helps normalize the microclimate and also prevents the formation of mold and mildew;
- Long service life. According to manufacturers, their product can last up to half a century or more. At the same time, over the years, the slabs do not lose their heat and sound insulation qualities;
- Easy to install. The plate is easy to cut with improvised tools, has a relatively low weight, and standard fastening materials can be used for its installation;
- Isoplat slabs allow for any type of finishing.
Important! You should not prime this material with conventional primers, since in this case the “breathing” qualities of the isoplat are greatly reduced.
Areas of application of isoplat
Wall covering
The technical characteristics of the material allow it to be used with equal efficiency in both internal and external external cladding walls In case of internal works experts recommend keeping the material for several days in the room where it will subsequently be installed so that the isoplat “gets used” to the local microclimate.
Standard drywall adhesive is often used as a means of fixation to a brick or concrete wall. The gypsum-based composition is applied approximately a centimeter thick. It is necessary to install the slab not at the very level of the floor, but about a centimeter from its surface. After the glue has set, you can further strengthen the material with screws or dowels. Having leveled the material, you should use polyurethane foam along all the seams. By the way, the foam itself can be used as the main fastener, applying it along the perimeter of the sheet and in zigzags along its entire back side.
Lathing device
In addition to directly gluing the isoplat to the wall, the material can be mounted like plasterboard sheets - fixing it on a frame sheathing. For the latter, it is necessary to use wooden beams with sides of at least 45 millimeters. The bars are mounted at a distance of 30-60 centimeters from each other, depending on the thickness of the isoplat sheet. Fastening occurs with nails, which should be driven in increments of 15 centimeters around the perimeter and 30 centimeters along internal parts leaf. In this case, after installation, the joints between the sheets and the heads of the fastening elements must be puttied.
Installation of slabs on the floor
As in the case of walls, you can mount the material either by directly gluing it to concrete or on joists (analogous to a frame). In the latter case, the same principles are used as in the case of lathing. Gluing is carried out with the same glue or foam as in the case of walls. Any method can serve as further finishing, but the most popular is laminate.
- On one side, the sheets of this insulating material are smooth, and on the other, wavy. It should be mounted so that the smooth side is on the outside;
- Work with isoplat sheets should be carried out in places with dry or normal air. Do not carry out work in places with high humidity;
- The horizontal joint of the slabs in the case of installation on a frame surface should be made exclusively on a horizontally located bar;
- In case of frame installation the wiring should be laid so that it does not interfere with the full fastening of materials to the wall, but is not damaged;
- When installing slabs on the ceiling, fasteners should be installed at half the pitch. It is also recommended to use nails with a wide head;
- Installation of sheets should be carried out after all “wet” work in the room that can increase humidity levels has been completed. An exception is the putty of the isoplat itself;
- If the sheets are slightly bent, which often happens with those located at the bottom of the pallet, they should be slightly wetted before installation, and then left for about a day on a flat surface.
Insulation with Izoplat, features of thermal insulation, its advantages and disadvantages, rules for installing slabs and technologies for their installation using frame and frameless methods.
Features of thermal insulation work with Izoplatom
ISOPLAAT boards are made only from natural raw materials, the composition of which does not include any chemical components or glue. The raw material is wood fibers, which are obtained by grinding coniferous wood and then moistening it to maximum saturation with water. Then the mass is distributed in an even layer and compressed by hot pressing.
Thanks to this treatment, wood fibers release lignin - the only substance that can act as a binding component. The presence of this resin in the raw material eliminates the need to add glue to obtain slabs of the required density. For this reason finished product has environmental cleanliness that is beyond doubt.
In addition to compaction, at the pressing stage a “carpet” of wood fibers is formed, which is then cut into products standard sizes. The resulting slabs have a width of 1200 mm, a length of 2700 mm and a thickness of 8, 10, 12, 25 mm.
Then the products are sent for several hours to undergo hot drying, after which they acquire all the necessary sound and thermal insulation properties. To protect the outside and inner side the plates are treated with paraffin.
A distinctive feature of Isoplat from other types of fiber boards is the presence smooth side, suitable for finishing. This makes it a profitable alternative to traditional OSB, plasterboard sheets or plywood.
Three types of Isoplat slabs are used as an insulating coating: sound and heat insulating, windproof and universal products with tongue-and-groove locking connections. For external insulation, windproof and thermal insulation boards, all of them have a layered structure, providing the material with durability and strength.
Main function thermal insulation products Isoplat is a building protection against cold. The thermal conductivity of such slabs, depending on their thickness, is 0.053-0.045 W/m2. This indicator determines the amount of heat that passes through 1 m2 of material area with a temperature difference of one degree.
Ideally, during frame construction, fiber insulation should be located between the internal and external finishing of external structures. This approach to installing Izoplat slabs will make the energy efficiency of the house impeccable. In winter, heating it will require few resources, and in summer, insulated walls will perfectly keep the rooms cool.
Wall covering with Isoplat 12 mm thick has the same thermal insulation characteristics as 200 mm brickwork or 450 mm wood. As for the sound absorption of slabs of this type, it should be understood that this indicator directly depends on the thickness of the products. The larger it is, the higher the soundproofness of the coating. This is especially true if this parameter is the criterion for choosing Isoplat. By using such slabs for cladding external structures, sound transmission can be reduced by up to 50%.
The use of windproof panels for wall insulation has certain features. Such Izoplat products are specially designed for the climatic conditions of the North, where damp weather prevails and there is often a need to block the wind to protect houses.
In this case, the material serves as insulation, wind protection, sound insulation, steam and water barriers for the roofs of buildings, as well as external walls. The resistance of windproof boards to bad weather is ensured by adding a waxy component to the fibrous mass during the production of products. It increases the moisture resistance of the slabs, which is extremely important when performing exterior decoration of the house.
Using Izoplat windproof panels, you can old dacha easily converted into comfortable housing for year-round residence. Walls insulated in this way can be plastered or equipped with a ventilated facade.
In order to distinguish windproof boards from other Isoplat insulation materials when choosing a material, you should pay attention to their color: it is dark green on both sides of the products. This marking specially applied by the manufacturer solely for the convenience of determining the type of material. The size of windproof boards is 1200x2700 mm, their thickness is 12 or 25 mm, the edge along the perimeter of the board is straight.
Advantages and disadvantages of Isoplat insulation
Izoplat slabs, being a 100% environmentally friendly material, carry their own beneficial features both the building envelope and the people living in it. Therefore, every year an increasing number of developers want to use this particular material to insulate walls, roofs and ceilings.
Among the advantages of such thermal insulation are the following:
- Wall cladding with Isoplat creates acoustic comfort in the space, providing reliable sound insulation of rooms from outside noise.
- Porous insulation can regulate the microclimate. Izoplat slabs can “breathe”, drawing in excess moisture from the premises and releasing it back when the air dries out due to the operation of heating devices.
- Isoplat insulation counteracts the formation of condensation and mold that accompanies it, causing diseases and immunity disorders.
- The material contains no chemicals or glue.
- The energy intensity of this insulation is quite high. By accumulating heat, the insulating layer maintains a stable temperature in the room, preventing it from quickly cooling down in winter and heating up in the summer heat.
- When installing the insulation board, it is easy to handle. Driving a nail or screwing a screw into such a product is not difficult. Material without special effort sawing electric jigsaw, hand hacksaw or a circular saw.
Another disadvantage is the lack of protection of the end parts of the slabs from moisture. Therefore, after installing several products on the wall, the joints must be immediately sealed with foam, the excess of which can be cut off the next day.
Rules for installing Izoplat slabs
In frame construction, Izoplat slabs serve as a material designed to close cold bridges. This must be done due to the fact that wooden elements frame have greater thermal conductivity than the insulation distributed between them (expanded polystyrene or mineral wool).
Installation of slabs on the walls or frame of a house is most often carried out in a vertical position of the products, that is, their short sides are located near the foundation of the house or its base.
Frame elements are mounted in increments of 600 mm. Therefore, the Izoplata slab will be installed between three profiles or bars. This makes it possible to conveniently fasten it and eliminate the need for excessive cutting of the canvas.
The standard slab length of 2700 mm makes it easy to cover walls 2.7 m high or less. If they are higher, there will be a gap between the ceiling and the top edge of the sheathing. In this case, wooden blocks are installed between the frame elements on the wall side, fixing them at a height of 2.68 m. It becomes possible to fasten the upper part of the mounted panel with screws and build it higher with the same blade, but shorter.
The thermal insulation or windproof panel is attached to the base with nails or self-tapping screws. The second method is preferable, since using a hammer can damage the slab. Due to the fact that it is not particularly hard, self-tapping screws are screwed into it no closer than a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the canvas. Otherwise, the fastening area may crumble.
Additional fixation of the slabs is carried out by stuffing wooden blocks on top of the products, which will serve in the future as the basis for a ventilated facade. In this case, Isoplat can be fixed only in 3 places on the frame elements adjacent to the slab. To fix the products, special 40x5.8 mm staples for a pneumatic stapler are used. When fastening slabs with a thickness of 12 mm, the length of screws and nails should be 40 mm, for slabs with a thickness of 25 mm - 70 mm.
As a support for mounting Isoplat on the wall, you can use a beam with nails half driven into it. In this case, it is fixed on the element of the lower trim of the sheathing in the place where the slab will be installed.
Izoplatom house exterior cladding technology
In areas with mild climatic conditions, a single-layer installation will be sufficient to insulate houses. thermal insulation coating Isoplat. But for regions with cold, long winters, such insulation of buildings is not sufficient: this insulation will need to be laid in 2-3 layers.
Preparatory work before installation of Izoplata
Izoplat sheets for wall insulation can be installed either on a frame or by gluing directly to a prepared surface. In the first case, there is no particular need for careful alignment of the walls. The frame for cladding with slabs is made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 45x45 mm or more, the pitch of the racks depends on the thickness of the products used.
The installation of the bars, when they are fixed to the base surface, should be controlled with a building level, ensuring that all elements of the sheathing are in the same plane. In this case, the insulating sheathing will not have pronounced protrusions or depressions, which can significantly facilitate the finishing of the walls.
When gluing sheets, the base surface must be carefully prepared. To do this, concrete and stone walls need to be cleaned of old peeling coating, dirt, stains and dust removed from them, and then repaired cement mortar identified cracks, chips and gouges of the surface. If necessary, they should be leveled with putty or plaster mortar.
Surface quality control is determined by a two-meter strip applied to the wall in different directions. The gap between them should not exceed 2-3 mm.
Sheathing a house using Izoplat frame method
The technology of cladding a frame house with Izoplat involves the sequential implementation of several stages of work:
- Marking the general level of the cladding. Along the perimeter of the house, on the elements of the lower trim, you need to draw a line with a marker, which will serve as a guide for installing the slabs. In addition to a marker, you should use building level and a square. With their help, the line will turn out strictly horizontal along its entire length.
- Marking slabs for fasteners. If further wall finishing is planned on Izoplata slabs in the form of plastering or another that does not require installation of a frame, marks must be applied to each product in increments of 150 mm, corresponding to the points of fixation of the panels to the metal or metal racks. wooden frame. Such markings should be applied as each successive slab is installed.
- Installation of Isoplat panels. Installation must begin from the corner of the house. The panel should be mounted with its lower end along common line markings. The long side of the product must coincide with the corner post of the frame. When installing, each slab must be supported and secured first in the middle, and then on both sides of it. The panels should be joined to each other not closely, but with a distance of 2-3 mm. Such gaps are designed to compensate for changes in product dimensions due to fluctuations in ambient temperature and humidity.
- Sealing joints. Compensation gaps between Isoplat panels must be treated with frost- and moisture-resistant foam or silicone waterproof sealant. After any of these fillers have hardened, their excess on the surface of the slabs must be cut off with a knife.
Sheathing a house with Isoplat using a frameless method
This method is usually used for insulating concrete or stone walls. In this case, the load-bearing base must be level, and its permissible differences must be within 2-3 mm. This requirement easiest to do with internal thermal insulation premises. Therefore, fastening Izoplat wall slabs using the frameless method is very rarely used when cladding the outside of a house.
The technology for installing insulation in this way consists of several sequential steps:
- Glue selection. In this case, a moisture-resistant and frost-resistant binder is used to fasten the slabs. They can use Ceresit ST190 or Baumit Star Contact glue, the consumption of which is 5-6 kg/m2. The package contains 25 kg of mixture. In addition, the slabs can be fixed using Macroflex polyurethane foam and its analogues.
- Applying glue. It is applied to the rough surface of the panel and the area of the wall to be pasted. The adhesive should be applied in strips and spread over the surface using a notched trowel. The thickness of the binder layer should be 0.3-0.5 mm. Stepping back 25-30 cm from the edge of the slab, you need to apply the first strip of glue, then, stepping back another 20-25 cm, apply the next strip.
- Fixing the plate. After treating both surfaces with the composition, the product should be applied to the wall and pressed for some time, which is indicated on the packaging of the adhesive manufacturer. To do this, you can use a board, one end of which rests at an angle against the Izoplat plate, and the other against the wall.
Surface finishing
After covering the walls with Izoplat, you can begin their finishing. First you need to putty the joints between the slabs using reinforcing tape.
They should first be cut using sandpaper to a depth of 2-3 mm and a width of 50 mm. Then you need to apply putty to the treated joints, and then lay the reinforcing tape on it in the longitudinal direction, smoothing it with a spatula and removing excess mixture.
After a day, when the putty has dried, you can apply a continuous layer of it to the slabs, which is also maintained until complete polymerization. After this, the coating must be sanded, construction dust removed and primed with water-based paint. This will provide a good white base for light paint - the dark background of the insulation in this case will not be visible through it.
In addition to painting, a ventilated facade can be mounted on Isoplat insulation boards, using frame bars to fasten it, or decorative plaster can be applied.
How to sheathe a house with Isoplat - watch the video:
Insulating your home with Izoplat slabs is easy to do yourself. The main thing in this matter is adherence to technology and accuracy in work. Good luck!
Looking at the statistics of visits to the “Finnish house”, I noticed that people are actively interested in reviews of Izoplat windproof boards and about these boards in general :)
I have something to say about this and quite a lot.
Let's start with the fact that Estonian Isoplaat boards are MDVP (soft wood fiber board), also known as softboard. Such material is produced not only by Izoplat, but unfortunately, it is the only one that is more or less widely represented on the market in St. Petersburg and slightly less in Moscow (at the time of writing).
At one time, the production of MDVP began in Russia under the Softboard brand (Woodway company), but before it really started, production was curtailed in 2008 and, apparently, there are no plans to resume.
It's a pity. Because in principle, MDVP material is very interesting and good.
But let's return to Izoplat. There is a backing for the laminate, thermal insulation boards, roofing and windproof boards. By and large, it's all the same thing. The only difference is in size and in the fact that windproof and roofing slabs are impregnated with paraffin to give them hydrophobic properties.
The material itself is wood “wool” compressed and bonded (according to official versions) with a natural adhesive contained in cellulose - lignin. Therefore, the material can be called “environmentally friendly”.
There is some cunning of the manufacturer here, because it is quite difficult to make a slab with similar characteristics without binders, using only lignin. It would either be fragile (like pellets) or fall apart when wet and then dry. Therefore, I am 90% sure that there is still a binder, although manufacturers carefully hide its name and its presence in general. According to indirect evidence, this may be synthetic latex. Although this does not prevent the product from being called environmentally friendly.
Among the advantages of the material is a high degree of sound insulation (although in my opinion this is not so important, given the small thickness), as well as high thermal insulation (thermal conductivity coefficient at the level of modern insulation), high vapor permeability, and also, oddly enough - his "softness"
Is isoplat a hard plate or a soft one?
The softness of an isoplat is a changeable thing.
if you look closely, you can see a “belly” on some sheets, like a wave
However, this “belly” partially disappears when the sheet dries.
In addition, after monitoring the information and talking with different knowledgeable people, I found out that the situation with the “belly” is typical for 12mm sheets. This no longer happens with 24mm.
Example 6
Dry isoplat can be cut perfectly with a regular knife with replaceable blades. It is very difficult to cut when wet. Rather, the plate begins to tear, rather than cut. It is very difficult to cut a wet slab with a knife.
Total:
Actually, what can you say? The softness of isoplaate directly depends on humidity. The wetter the material, the softer it is. But at the same time, it dries instantly and restores its original properties. In this regard, it is preferable to use a 24 mm sheet rather than a 12 mm sheet - which, frankly speaking, is completely “snotty”.
Does windproof isoplat provide rigidity to the frame?
One of the popular questions on the forums is whether isoplat gives rigidity to the frame and whether it can be used without jibs. There are different opinions.
I will express my opinion - yes, it can be used without jibs. But - 12mm only for a 1-storey building, if for a 2-storey building, then 24mm. In general, the question of the need for jibs together with an isoplat is quite specific and largely depends on the specific design of the wall.
Why do I think this? Firstly, while I was making the roof, and the frame was standing with temporary jibs, some “staggering” was felt. After sheathing with a 12mm slab and removing the temporary jibs - no longer there.
Moreover, the box without internal walls, under the roof and only covered with 12mm isoplaat, stood completely calm from autumn until next summer. Although there was enough snow in winter, and a couple of times there was even a stormy wind.
You must also understand that isoplat is not the only element that gives rigidity to the frame. In the future, interior decoration, exterior decoration, etc. will be added. I call this the “bun of arrows” principle. One arrow is easy to break, but a bunch is not.
So it is with the rigidity of the frame. Perhaps just a 12mm isoplate will not be enough. But in general, in combination with other layers of the wall, each of which makes its own contribution, the rigidity will be sufficient.
In addition, in my opinion, as paradoxical as it sounds, the softness of the windproof Isoplaat gives rigidity to the structure.
The fact is that due to its softness, the windproof plate is pressed very tightly against the racks
Stiffer boards (OSB, DSP, etc.) will not press this way precisely because they are rigid. Thus, it turns out that MDVP has a contact area with the frame and “adhesion” to it that is much better and denser than that of more rigid slabs.
Therefore, my conclusion is that in terms of rigidity, it is quite possible to use 12-24mm isoplats without jibs. But this will depend on the number of floors of the house, the windiness of the area and other layers of the wall.
Is it possible to leave the isoplat open for the winter?
Another popular question. Officially, the manufacturer writes something about 3 months. Unofficially, it sometimes stands for years, in Estonia. By and large, in terms of strength, nothing will happen to the stove if you leave it for the winter.
But there is an interesting nuance with which I have, let’s say, exclusive experience.
I sheathed the house at the end of August, when there were heavy rains, high atmospheric humidity and other delights. After a couple of weeks, I began to notice the appearance of black dots on the sheets, very unpleasantly reminiscent of “blackness” - mold that appears on boards and some slab materials. Photos were taken in winter
Interestingly, I installed a couple of sheets already in November, when I mothballed the house for the winter. So on these sheets, there were an order of magnitude fewer black dots.
Moreover, there were strange places with stains, where there was direct contact with moisture, and in the center of the stains - the slab was completely clean. And the points themselves are purely superficial.
It's like a blur. If you peel off the surface layer a little, everything underneath is clean.
On the right is a stove installed in November, it is almost clean. On the left - installed in August. The photo was taken at the end of spring, that is, more than six months later
Moreover, at its lowest point, the wall was covered with snow all winter. So, when the snow melted, all the “blackness” disappeared with it and did not appear again
the blackness was “washed away” by the melting snow
As you can understand, this situation really stressed me out, so I launched a whole investigation into this matter, including contacting the manufacturer and the dealer, using all the connections and channels available to me.
Unfortunately, I never got a clear answer from anyone. There is an opinion that it was not mold, but the release of a certain paint pigment under the influence of humidity. Because windproof boards are specially painted (that very green color) so that they can be distinguished from ordinary boards.
This version is supported by the strange nature of the “blurs” and the fact that in the last photo you can clearly see how a dark stripe passes over the nail head. In addition, all the blackness was exclusively on the outer, painted part of the slabs.
On the other hand, we should not forget that my site is practically in a swamp and given the constant high humidity, even those things that, in theory, should not mold, were often covered with mold and blackness - for example, pieces of FSF plywood.
In the end, just in case, before installing the imitation timber, just in case, I went over all the slabs with FBS antiseptic
I can also say that “colleagues” who also used windproof isoplaat on their houses and left them for a long period without external protection, nothing like this was noticed. Or it was, but in very small, local areas.
How to fasten and cut windproof boards?
- Nails with wide heads (tar paper) (40-70mm)
- Staples (35-60mm)
For 12mm slabs, the fastening pitch is 10cm at the edges and 20cm in the center. For 24mm - 20 at the edges and 30 in the center.
I attached it with 40mm tar paper nails. In principle it’s ok, but there are a couple of nuances.
Not all nails are created equal - in the photo below, the nails are from different batches, both of which were sold as "galvanized". This is what happened to them in six months
Good tar nails are for some reason a very expensive item. Even if you buy in bulk.
The amount of fasteners on a 12mm sheet is depressing. Both in terms of money and time. It took me almost 3 days to fasten all the slabs, and mostly it was just blunt waving of a hammer.
Therefore, I think that the best way is to fasten the boards with a pneumatic or electric stapler, a 40-50mm staple with a wide “back”.
In addition, I already wrote that I attached the slabs when it was humid and the slabs “swelled”.
In the spring, the slab dried out, the geometry changed and the slab around the fasteners broke in several places.
If you look closely, on the right sheet the plate is broken around the fastener
Hence the moral
- Fastening with staples is faster and most likely more reliable
- If you are attaching a “wet” sheet, do not leave a gap between the plates, it will appear on its own when the sheet dries
- Do not attach the slab too close to the edge
You can cut slabs with anything. You can use a circular saw. But I didn't like it. A lot of nasty fine wood dust.
I cut with a regular construction knife with replaceable blades. The 12mm sheet is cut amazingly, although there are a couple of “buts”. Firstly, the blades get dull very quickly. Secondly, dry sheets cut well. Wet, starting to get shaggy.
Which windproof boards to choose?
Considering the rather low cost, the question often arises of which slabs to choose?
My opinion is that 24mm is best. They are more stable in size, they are easier to attach, and they provide greater rigidity to the frame. 12mm is an “economy option” that has certain disadvantages.
You can try an option that is more labor-intensive, but slightly cheaper than a 24 mm plate. Use a simple heat-insulating board as the first layer (it’s cheaper), and a wind-proof one as the second. This will save on the cost of the material, but not much.
But you can cover the joints of the first with a second layer, obtaining a more reliable structure.
In addition, you can splurge on roofing sheets (now called universal). They have a “tenon groove”, which allows them to be mounted horizontally, without being tied to the pitch of the racks and the size of the slabs. Which is important because there will be less waste. The slabs are laid one after another according to the laminate principle. The last piece in the first row is placed first in the second and so on. And the tenon groove does not create gaps at the joints.
Conclusion
What can I say in conclusion of my “review”? Would I use MDVP again - definitely yes. For me, this is an ideal material for the outer cladding of a frame. The only serious downside is the price.
After all, in normal countries, it costs 1.5-2 times cheaper than here.
Would I use Isoplaat if there were alternatives on the MDVP market? This is not a fact. I came across a Finnish Leon slab - subjectively it was less friable and more rigid than isoplaat. Unfortunately, supplies to our market were local and quickly stopped.
In particular, the Steico Universal cooker. What is its difference? Firstly, it is again denser than isoplat. Secondly, Steico Universal has a smaller sheet format and an excellent “tenon groove”, which allows it to be mounted like a laminate, without bothering at all with the slab joints getting onto the studs and with a minimum amount of scraps. A small sheet makes the installation process easier.