Decorate the ceiling with plastic panels yourself. How to sheathe a ceiling with plastic: selection of material, installation of a supporting frame and cladding

Despite the variety of varieties suspended ceilings, such as: plasterboard, tension or Armstrong, ceilings made of plastic panels have not lost their popularity to this day, thanks to their low cost and ease of installation.

Plastic panels are mainly used for installing plastic ceilings in bathrooms, kitchens, balconies or loggias, gas stations, but also for wall panels and lining of communication systems, sewer and water pipes leaving an inspection hatch for monitoring taps and water meters. Using panels for large ceilings is not very advisable, since such a ceiling does not look aesthetically pleasing due to the limited panel length of 3 meters; there are also 6 meter ones, but it is not always possible to bring them into the room. Because of this, it is necessary to add a connecting H-profile, which does not completely match the color of the panels and will stand out strongly against the general background.

Do-it-yourself installation of the panels begins with assembling the frame to which they will be attached; the frame can be made of wood or metal profiles, which are used in the installation of drywall. It is better to use metal profiles, as they are smoother than boards or timber.

Materials for assembling the frame:

  • UD profile;
  • CD profile;
  • pendants;
  • dowel with a diameter of 6 mm;
  • metal self-tapping screws with a 4.2x13 mm “flea” press washer.

Minimum set of tools for installation on a concrete ceiling:

  • perforator;
  • screwdriver;
  • metal scissors;
  • metal hacksaw or jigsaw;
  • water level;
  • Victory drill bit 6 mm.

You may also need an upholstery cord and a 2.5-3 mm drill, a plasterboard crown, a miter box, and silicone.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic panels

If there is no hidden wiring, it must be placed in corrugated pipes to prevent possible fire.

Before installing the profiles, you need to set marks to which the ceiling will be lowered, taking into account the height of the UD profile of 45 mm and the height of the starting profile of 8-10 mm, this is especially important for balconies, since the final height of the suspended ceiling overhang will block access to the opening of the balcony windows.

Having established the marks, the next step is to move them using a ruler from bottom to top by 8-10 mm, depending on the height of the starting “elka” profile.

After applying the markings, the UD profiles are installed. The profile must be leaned against the wall so that its lower part is at the mark, then using a hammer drill equipped Pobedit drill, drill the profile together with the wall to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10 mm. After drilling the first hole, you can hammer in the dowel; this is convenient if you work alone.

The next step is to install the hangers; in order to determine their location, you need to put marks on the UD profile, since later the CD profile is attached to the hangers, the marks are made based on its location. The CD profile is mounted perpendicular to the length of the plastic panels. Having determined the direction of the plastic panels, we make a mark on the UD profile perpendicularly every 50 cm.

Next, we insert the CD profiles, cut to the required length, into the UD profile and screw the suspensions to the ceiling with dowels, then connect the suspension to the CD profile with self-tapping screws; if the profile span is large, then we check it with a level or pull the cord so that the frame is level. At the end we connect UD and CD with self-tapping screws.

If a wooden frame is used, it is advisable to treat it with an antifungal agent.

When the frame is ready, we attach the starting “elku” profile or the “fillet” ceiling plinth or F-profile.

Professionals advise first attaching 3 guide profiles, and gluing the last one after joining all the panels. You can mount 4 “Elki” at once, but then due to bad pressure, a small gap may form between the last and previous panels, plus this method is quick installation without the use of liquid nails.

Depending on your choice, whether it is a starting profile or a fillet, the sequence of further work depends.

If a starting profile is selected, then the first 3 are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the last one with liquid nails, otherwise all 4 with self-tapping screws.

If it is a fillet, then all 4 or more can be secured with liquid nails, and the last one is attached at the end, taking into account that its “tongue” is cut off, see the video for more details.


The same can be applied to the F-profile.


I would like to note that no matter what version of the guide you choose, it can be attached to any in a convenient way, self-tapping screws or liquid nails, staples or wood nails.

Laying the first row

We cut the PVC panel 5 mm smaller than required to facilitate installation.


We insert one edge of the panel into the PVC guide. To bring in the second edge, you need to slightly bend the panel down.


We screw the panel to the profile with a flea screw. On a wooden frame, you can use a regular drywall screw.


Insert the second panel and press down until the lock clicks into place.

Installation of the last plastic panel on the ceiling

There are several ways to secure the last panel:

1. The easiest way is to cut the panel 5-7 mm smaller in width, first insert it into the guide, and then push it in the opposite direction until the lock clicks into place.

2. Glue the last panel to the profiles using liquid nails together with the L or F profile, or in the case of a fillet, first glue the panel, and on it the fillet with the “tongue” cut off. For more details about the last option, see the video.


PVC lamps

We make holes for recessed lamps or ventilation using a plasterboard crown mounted on a screwdriver or drill.


How to make corners?

It is not necessary to cut the corners on the L or F profile; they are not very noticeable. But for fillets you need a miter box and strong nerves if you are a beginner. After finishing the installation, we cover the cracks with silicone, watch the video.

In order not to resort to buying a miter box, you can purchase corners for PVC fillets, they are shown in the photo below.


A ceiling made of plastic panels is one of the options for quick top finishing in any room. It will look equally good in a bathroom, toilet, balcony, loggia, or living rooms. Even next repair planned in the long term, then familiarize yourself with how to do high quality ceiling from plastic panels yourself will not be superfluous.

Harmful or not

It happens conflicting opinions about whether a PVC panel ceiling is harmful when used in places where people are predominantly present. Moving away from the subjectivity of assessments, we can state:

  1. Today, plastic is used everywhere in everyday life - from sealing goods to kitchen utensils. In the production of panels, raw materials used for medical and food products are used, which undergo mandatory certification.
  2. The structure of the product has no pores. Bacteria and microorganisms do not have conditions for cultivation. That is why the Sanitary and Epidemiological Service recommends panels for use in the buildings of the Ministry of Health and other institutions with large public visits.
  3. Plastic is easily kept clean with simple household products. At the same time, user properties and aesthetic qualities are not lost.
  4. The combustion temperature of PVC used for the production of panels is 360°C. At the same time, often used for chipboard repair, fiberboard, OSB, enter the combustion process at 250°C. The smoke emission of the latter is 40-50% higher.
  5. Plastic ceiling“does not breathe”, that is, it does not allow air to pass through, does not deform, and condensate is not drained away. It is a fact. But all apartments and modern private houses are equipped with ventilation. The same applies to houses of old construction, where the owner is allocated space for bathrooms and sanitary facilities, if they were not provided for when the building was built. The issue of air exchange and humidity control is not resolved through the ceiling of the room.

Thus, the assertion that the use of plastic panels destroys the microclimate of the room and is potentially dangerous for people to live in has no basis.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

PVC ceiling panels are classified according to several criteria:

  1. Density of the material.
  2. Element size.
  3. Connection type.
  4. Color and texture design.

The connection type determines whether it will have finishing surface visible seam or will it be continuous seamless. The final processing method gives the product color and texture, and the surface can be:

  • plain, does not fade when exposed to ultraviolet light;
  • varnished, with a special coating applied that gives a special shine, but scratches can ruin the appearance;
  • with a drawing applied in printed form many patterns, but the plastic is soft. And the service life is limited;
  • laminated, completely repeating natural materials and their derivatives are susceptible to delamination when exposed to prolonged direct ultraviolet radiation.

All options are resistant to water or steam and do not change structure under moderate temperature changes.


When producing PVC panels for ceilings, manufacturers are guided by standardized dimensions, where width can be 100, 200, 250 mm, length - 2700, 3000, 4000 and 6000 mm, with a thickness of 10 mm.

The presented photos show design options for the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, bedroom, hallway and corridor.

Advice! The service life, in addition to the recommended conditions of use, depends on the density of the elements. Almost all panels are within easy reach price category, but less dense (soft) panels are cheaper. Saving on purchases may lead to new expenses in the near future.

Preparatory activities

Like others Finishing work during renovation, ceiling panels without preliminary preparation it won't be possible to fix it. A number of activities need to be carried out:

  1. Calculate the number of panels, accessories, and fastening materials. The plan takes into account the placement of lamps and wiring routing.
  2. Check the readiness of the tool and accessories.
  3. Clear the room of furniture that interferes with the pre-treatment of the ceiling and direct installation.
  4. Remove the remains of the old finish from the ceiling surface.
  5. Check wiring. If it is in a deplorable condition, as well as if a change in the position of the lighting devices is planned, dismantle it, having previously disconnected the input wires from electrical network.
  6. Inspect the ceiling for defects. Special attention pay attention to the joints of floor slabs and wall joints on the street side. Putty on the cracks.
  7. Prime the ceiling plane with antibacterial mixtures.

Attention! If the installation is planned to be carried out on suspensions (suspended ceiling), then the scope of these measures is sufficient. But in the case of attaching the guides directly to the ceiling, the plane is additionally leveled with gypsum-based putty.

Principles of calculation

A simple mathematical calculation makes it possible to purchase the required number of panels and other Supplies. First of all, determine the installation area by multiplying the length and width of the room. Then the result is divided by the area of ​​one PVC part, and the required number of parts is obtained. You should add 10-15% to the result obtained, rounding the value to the whole panel. This reserve will come in handy in case of erroneous dissolution or installation errors.


The following is calculated:

  • purchase volume of ceiling profiles, as well as suspensions (fastening interval 500-600 mm);
  • the length of the starting profile, where it is equal to the length of the perimeter and 100 mm of margin;
  • dowels, if the metal profile is fastened in increments of 500 mm;
  • self-tapping screws, with a consumption of pcs./meter, respectively, 1/0.5.

Additionally, you should purchase a profile for connecting the end parts of the panels, internal and outer corners for joining the structure.

Tools and accessories

To perform the work, you should prepare the following tools and accessories:

  1. Drilling holes. It can be electric or hand drill, semi-professional or professional screwdriver with a set of drills and bits.
  2. Dissolution of blanks. Carpenter's knife, hacksaw with blade for cutting metal.
  3. Measurements and markings. Tape measure, building level, twine, marker or pencil. Hangers.
  4. Metal profile for installation ceiling structures: UD – 25/25 mm and CD – 25/60 mm in the calculated quantity.

Advice! Repair is a planned event. Therefore, it is recommended to prepare tools and purchase consumables in advance.

How to install a plastic suspended ceiling

There are several options for mounting panels. Simple is represented by direct lathing of the ceiling surface with timber at intervals of 500-600 mm, sequential interlocking assembly of panels. This option is applicable if, as a result of preliminary preparation, the surface is leveled close to ideal, and also when low ceilings. But it should be taken into account that wooden beam“takes” moisture and becomes deformed. Consequently, the plane of the finishing surface will undergo a change.


Another method is a do-it-yourself suspended ceiling made of plastic panels using metal profiles. In this case, the structure will not lose consumer properties at any humidity and temperature changes. This is what will be discussed further.

Assembling the frame

Work begins with markings. For this purpose, previously prepared measuring and marker accessories are used. The order is as follows:

  1. Record the height of all corners and the value in the center of the room (floor - ceiling).
  2. The lowest angle compared to the base values ​​will be the starting angle. It is from this that the interval of the formed inter-ceiling space (ceiling - panel) is measured. For ease of fastening the cord, fix the point by screwing in a self-tapping screw.
  3. Using a level and a cord, “beat off” a plane along the entire perimeter of the room, where the outlined line will be the junction of the plastic structure.
  4. Places for placing metal profiles are added on the opposing walls. Planned intervals are no more than 500 mm.
  5. Lastly, mark the installation locations of the hangers. It is important to apply the markings with maximum accuracy, since errors during installation are difficult to eliminate.

You should check whether there are hidden electrical wiring at the mounting points of the suspensions. To do this, use a special detector or seek help from a professional electrician. Further activities include:

  • According to the wall markings, the guide profile is fastened along the entire perimeter, with the exception of the side where the installation is planned to be completed, to facilitate the adjustment of the end slab;
  • holes for dowels are drilled in previously designated places and hangers are attached;
  • next, cut the profile to the required length, insert it into the guides, and fix it on the hangers with self-tapping screws;
  • carry out constant control of the horizon of the plane using a stretched cord.

Attention! This stage of work is completed by tracing the wiring and, if planned, communications. It is recommended to place the wires in special corrugated sleeves. Their use makes it possible to timely identify wiring during drilling, simplifies the complete replacement of part of the wire and additionally protects against moisture penetration.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

The ceiling panels are installed perpendicular to the guides in the following order:

  1. Measure the distance between the guide profiles. Transfer the measurements with markings to the panel. Cut off the excess. To do this, use a sharp knife or hacksaw with a fine tooth and a thin blade.
  2. On the cut edges, the jagged edges are removed with fine-grained sandpaper. Release the panel from its individual packaging if it has not been removed previously.
  3. One end is inserted into the starting profile, bending the palatine, the second end is placed in the oppositely located wall mount.
  4. With little effort, move the plastic element to the installed perpendicular mount. Thus, it turns out to be fixed in three planes.
  5. On the side with the locking device, the lower part is fixed to the sheathing with a self-tapping screw.
  6. Repeat the operation with the next panel, with the difference that it is necessary to ensure precise fit into the grooves along the entire length of the part.
  7. On panels where installation is intended lighting fixtures, drill technical holes of the recommended diameter. To avoid unintentional fracture of the plane, work is carried out with extreme care, avoiding excessive physical effort.
  8. Elements are installed in a similar way along the entire length of the room, while the installation of the end panel has some features.

The installation of plastic lining on the ceiling is presented in the following video:

Installing the last panel and baseboard

The last panel for the ceiling fits completely into the remaining space in very rare cases, trimming is usually required. The procedure is as follows:

  • take accurate measurements on both sides of the panel; a slight error may have occurred during installation;
  • the measurements are transferred to the workpiece, the points are connected with a piece of profile and cut off;
  • together with the finishing wall profile, they are placed on the seat of the pants;
  • the latter is secured with an adhesive mixture called “liquid nails”.

Ceiling plinth is a mandatory attribute of a plastic ceiling. Molding gives a finished look to the room and ensures a smooth transition between wall and ceiling planes. To properly fit the baguette at the corners, you will need a miter box. If it is not there, then it will be sufficient to use one of simple techniques markings. You can use a squared notebook sheet. It depicts two lines intersecting in the center. Then the bisectors of the corners are drawn and the required 450 for even trimming is obtained.

Advice! Before fixing with adhesive solution, preliminary fitting is carried out. If necessary, the butt ends are adjusted additionally.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

The installation work on installing plastic panels for the ceiling is completed by gluing the baseboards and sealing the acrylic cracks. After installing the last panel, as a rule, there is a need to seal the joint. At the same time, to make the ceiling plane look monolithic, the joints are filled with acrylic compounds. The order of work is presented as follows:

  1. You can carry out culling by preliminary inspection of the entire plane, but it is more practical to visually divide the plane into squares, and sequentially seal all the cracks as you move through the sections.
  2. It is recommended to remove flaws using a construction gun with a tube filled with acrylic.
  3. Simultaneous filling of cracks is carried out in small areas (350-450 mm). Excess is removed immediately and the seam is smoothed.
  4. The hardening speed of acrylic is quite high, therefore, if the area where the composition was placed is missed and it has time to dry, it is carefully removed with a spatula or knife, followed by rubbing the area with warm water.

Attention! The drying of this type of grouting material is accompanied by slight shrinkage, and it may be necessary to re-grout the flaws after the first layer has completely dried, that is, 7-11 hours.

Plastic ceiling lamps

Change finishing The ceiling makes it possible to check the condition of electrical wiring, change the location of lighting fixtures, and install modern models. If the ceiling in the bathroom is made of plastic panels, then you can zone the lighting without damaging the wall tiles and place the wires hidden above the panels.


When independently tracing and connecting peripheral electrical devices, you must adhere to safety rules, namely:

  1. Dismantling and subsequent work are carried out after disconnecting the room from the general electrical network. A household “indicator probe” in the form of a screwdriver will help you make sure there is no voltage.
  2. It is recommended to pre-prepare the electrical wiring diagram location of lighting devices, switches.
  3. Wires for new wiring are purchased with a cross-section corresponding to the maximum load when all devices are turned on. Consultation on this issue can be obtained from trade organizations.
  4. In the places where lamps and switches are connected, the wire is left with a reserve - the “loop” will come in handy if you have to conduct renovation work or change equipment if it malfunctions.
  5. After tracing the wires, it is useful, without connecting to the network, to check the correct execution of the circuit using a household voltmeter.

Attention! If House master has no experience self-installation wiring and connecting devices to avoid accidents from damage electric shock During subsequent operation, a professional electrician should be invited.

Features of the selection and installation of 220 V lamps

When choosing lighting fixtures, consider the following:

  1. The ignition temperature of plastic is high and it is almost impossible to achieve it by contact with a light bulb. But exceeding the heating norm will lead to melting seat, changes in color, structure and odor. In this regard, light bulbs with a power not exceeding 40 W are used.
  2. Security parameters of the lighting device itself. Their importance increases when used in rooms with high humidity levels. Therefore, it is recommended to use lamps with a protection level of at least IP44.
  3. Based on safety requirements, lighting devices should not be located closer than half a meter to the location of the bathtub or shower stall.
  4. The distribution panel of lighting devices in rooms with high humidity is located outside the room.
  5. Places for installing lamps are prepared during the direct installation of the panels. The diameter of the seat for the lighting system, depending on the brand and manufacturer, ranges from 58-74 mm. There are two ways to make a hole.

The first is represented by the use of a suitable-sized wood crown.

The second one takes a little longer, but does not require application. special tool. The installation site is marked using an ordinary compass. Make a small incision with a sharp knife and cut out the outline household jigsaw. With all the increase in time for the procedure, the likelihood of damage to the panel as a result of careless use of an electric drilling tool is reduced significantly.

Halogen and LED

What distinguishes halogen and LED lighting devices from standard ones is a twelve-volt supply voltage, and to create it, a step-down transformer is included in the electrical supply network. The location of its installation should exclude the possibility of penetration of condensate, and especially water. Safety requirements require the installation of a separate automatic fuse with a rating of at least 8 A.


When determining the number of spotlight sources in any rooms where it is planned to install a plastic ceiling with a height of more than 2.6 meters, take into account the following:

  • the cone of lighting when they are turned on does not exceed an angle of 300;
  • for good light density, lamps are installed at intervals of no more than one meter;
  • the distance from the wall plane to the first lama is 0.6 m or more;
  • to connect groups of lamps, special blocks are used; even soldered “twists” are not recommended;
  • to ensure accurate polarity at the device’s power terminals, the wire should be routed uniformly, for example, black – plus, white – minus, wire with a notch – “ground”;
  • When attaching lamps to the frame, special devices (latches, clamps) must be used.

The installation procedure for a spotlight is as follows:

  1. Disconnect basement part from the light element.
  2. The block is connected to the wire terminals.
  3. The light element is placed in its normal place and the operation is checked.
  4. If the result is positive, the spotlight is attached to the base with clamps.
  5. The installation of the decorative trim and thermal insulator completes the installation. It should be noted that the designs of lamps differ, and therefore it is recommended to study the instructions for the device before installation.

How to install lighting elements is presented in the following videos:

Conclusion

The presented material indicates that the plastic ceiling, when household use no more dangerous to humans than chipboard panels, but it has a number of advantages. One of them is represented by the possibility of self-installation, without the need to purchase special tools and accessories. A wide palette of panel colors allows you to create a ceiling for many interior styles.

Gallery of finished works

If desired, even a person without experience can sheathe the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic. Especially if he has assistants detailed instructions on how to make a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. The main stages and nuances can be seen in the video.


There is nothing complicated in installing a suspended ceiling covered with plastic panels, so many homeowners are thinking about doing all the work on our own. But even experienced builders sometimes they don’t know all the nuances of working with plastic, and for craftsmen without experience it will be even more useful step by step guide.

Every owner can make a plastic ceiling in his bathroom if desired.

Why is the ceiling made of plastic panels?

Polyvinyl chloride, also known as PVC, is practical and quite reliable finishing material, which is perfect for rooms with high humidity. The ceiling made of plastic panels is easy to care for; it is not afraid of mold. A variety of colors and textures allows you to decorate your bathroom in the most suitable way. color scheme.

Of course, aesthetics suspended ceilings plastic is inferior, but it allows you to quickly and, most importantly, inexpensively update the room.

PVC ceiling panels can be different colors

Design features of suspended ceilings

The design of a suspended ceiling is quite simple - it is a frame that is attached to the base ceiling and sheathed with suitable finishing material. If we are talking about a bathroom, then it is better to make the frame not from wooden beams, but from metal profiles for drywall.

When the profile extensions are attached directly to the ceiling, the structure is called a suspended structure, but if they are lowered on suspensions, it is called suspended. The ceiling frame consists of thin wall profiles (UD), screwed around the perimeter of the room and wide guides (CD), which are attached perpendicular to the plastic strips.

Suspended ceiling mounting

How to choose plastic panels

To really choose quality material Be sure to pay attention to the stiffeners; the more of them, the stronger and more reliable the panel will be and the lower the risk that after a few years it will deform under its own weight and from exposure to moisture. The painting should be uniform, without smudging, smudges, and especially without unpainted areas. back side the panels must be uniformly colored and smooth.

Types of plastic panels

Calculation of the required number of panels

PVC panels are sold in widths of 10, 25 and 50 cm, and lengths from 2.5 to 4 or 6 meters. To accurately calculate the amount of material, you need to select the panels in advance, determine their direction in the room and measure the length of all sides of the sheathed ceiling. For example, the dimensions of a room are 2.5 * 2.7 meters, panels (0.5 * 3 m) will be laid lengthwise larger wall. That is, their length of 3 meters will be just enough, there will be a small trimming left.

Width: 2.5 m/0.5 m = 5 pieces. Of course, it’s unlikely that anyone will want to buy an extra three-meter panel for reinsurance, but you need to at least make sure that the store still has material from this particular batch (others may differ in color) and if the panel is damaged, there will be somewhere to buy the same one.

Adjusting the size of the plastic ceiling panel

PVC profiles and cornices

There are several types of various components, in particular profiles and cornices for installing polyvinyl chloride, in stores, but not all of them may be needed, so you need to familiarize yourself with the main ones in advance and decide which ones are needed and in what quantity.

  • Starting profile - is fixed around the perimeter of the room and serves to fix the panels and hide their ends.
  • An H-shaped profile is needed to join the two ends of the panel if one strip is not enough for the entire length of the room.
  • PVC ceiling plinth - essentially this is the same starting profile, but with decorative border.
  • A universal corner - you can use it to cover any joints. It is practically not used in ceiling installation, except in multi-level structures.

Types of fastenings for suspended ceilings

Purchasing material for lathing

For the sheathing you will need profile guides (CD) and wall guides (UD), their standard length– 3 or 4 meters. The required length of wall profiles is equal to the perimeter of the room; if possible, a solid profile is attached along one wall. Wide profile guides are attached in increments of 60 cm. You will also need straight or anchor hangers, “quick installation” dowels and flea screws.

Preparatory work

The beauty of suspended ceilings is that basic foundation no need to prime, putty or specially prepare it at all. Only deleted old finish, and it is recommended to treat the surface with an antifungal compound. But sometimes they don't even do that, old whitewash or the paint is simply hiding under the new ceiling.
It is worth considering how high the ceiling will be lowered. The minimum indentation is equal to the thickness of the sheathing, but if they are installed Spotlights or ventilation is hidden under the ceiling, then they start from their maximum height. It is not recommended to lower the ceiling more than 40 cm.

Ceiling ready for installation suspended structure

Frame installation

Start work by marking the perimeter. A line is drawn on the walls strictly according to the level, and it will begin on it. new ceiling. If the walls are tiled, you can simply draw a line along the seam between the tiles.

When the markings are made, cut the guide wall profile and drill holes in it in increments of 50 cm. You can drill directly on the wall if you have an assistant, but if you don’t have one, it will be difficult to make the first pair of fastenings. When the drill rotates, the profile moves a little and can loosen the previous fastening; this especially often happens in old buildings, where thick layer plaster or the ceiling line coincides with the masonry seam.

Installation of lathing under a plastic ceiling

To install guide profiles, it is more convenient to use “quick installation” dowels. They are inserted into drilled hole and hammered in with a hammer. Next, measure and cut a wide guide profile. If the bathtub is perfectly flat, you can cut all the strips at once, but if the walls are located at an angle, as is often the case in Khrushchev-era buildings, it is better to take individual measurements for each profile and cut it separately.

The profiles are lowered to the required height using straight or anchor hangers in increments of about 60 cm. The ends of the CD profile are inserted into the UD and secured together with flea couplings.

Wiring

Diagram: electrical wiring arrangement

After installing the frame, wires are brought to the points where the lamps will be and fixed. There is no need to skimp on the “tails”; a long wire can always be cut off, but it is undesirable to extend it, especially in the bathroom. If a chandelier will hang on the ceiling, the structure at the place of its installation is reinforced, an additional suspension is installed, and the profile is placed in advance in such a way that the chandelier is attached specifically to metal base. If this is not possible, attach a crossbar.

Advice! The functionality of the electrical wiring should be checked in advance.

Installation of plastic panels

The starting profile, in which the panels will be fixed, is attached from below to the wall profile with self-tapping screws. It can also be glued directly to the tiles using liquid nails.
Hacksaw, jigsaw or construction knife cut the panel to the required length, insert one end into the U-shaped plastic guide, bend it slightly and insert the other end of the panel into the opposite U-shaped profile. The panel is leveled and inserted into the longitudinal starting profile.

Advice! If spotlights will be mounted in the ceiling, it is more convenient to cut holes for them before installing the panel, manually or using a bit attachment on a drill. But in this case, the panel becomes more fragile and may crack if it bends too much.

There are fastening locks on both sides of the panel. After installing the first panel, the lock on one side will be hidden in the starting profile, and on the other it is screwed to the guide profile with screws and a press washer. The next panel is mounted in the same way.

Scheme: installation of plastic panels

It is trimmed, the ends are inserted one by one into the profile guides, the canvas is aligned and pressed tightly against the lock of the previous panel until it clicks lightly. There should be no gaps left between the panels along the entire length.

The last panel rarely extends to its full width, so it is trimmed with a construction knife. To simplify installation, it is made somewhat shorter than the distance from one wall to another, so that it extends literally a few millimeters into the profile on each side.

First, the panel is placed in one of the corners and from there it is inserted into the longitudinal starting profile; when the panel is fully inserted, it is aligned and pulled to the lock of the previous panel.

If it sits too tightly and you can’t pull it up with your palm, you can glue a piece of regular tape on each side and pull the free edge of the tape.

Advice! Interesting solution It is possible to fasten plastic panels diagonally, but this method is used extremely rarely, since it is quite labor-intensive. In addition, you can create multi-level suspended ceilings.

Installation of panels without U-shaped plastic profiles

Installation of plastic panels to the frame

When the walls in the bathroom are smooth and the frame is properly constructed, the panels can be screwed directly to the profiles. This method is simpler, especially considering the difficulties with installing the edge panel, but no less reliable. The joint between the walls and the ceiling is covered with an ordinary baguette, which is secured with “liquid nails”.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling in the bathroom: video

Plastic ceiling in the bathroom: photo



If you want to update the interior of a living room, bathroom, hallway, or apartment, then you can’t do without reconstructing the ceiling. And one of the options would be to install plastic lining on it. Today, the assortment of construction stores includes many polymer panels made in various colors or with patterns that imitate natural finishing materials - stone or wood of various species. Therefore, this cladding can be selected to suit any exquisite interior, made in the style you like.

How can you independently, so that the final result looks “professional”, become an integral part of the design of the entire room? This question arises for everyone who starts renovating residential premises, and you should try to answer it within the framework of this article.

Characteristics of PVC ceiling panels

Finishing polymer panels, as a rule, consist of two thin plates, spaced at a certain distance, between which there are stiffening ribs that connect the outer and inner sides and at the same time make the material more durable. Along the sides of the panels there are elements for connecting individual parts to each other, arranged according to the tongue-and-groove principle. They facilitate the installation of panels and reliably hold them in any position strictly in the same plane.

  • PVC lining, intended for installation on the ceiling, can have dimensions in length from 2400 to 6000 mm, and the width of the strips varies from 100 to 500 mm, thickness - from 5 to 12 mm.
  • Panels are produced with the most different surfaces– they can be glossy or matte, perfectly white or colored, in the form of tiles and slats, with or without a textured pattern.
  • For high-quality finishing, PVC panels are equipped with the necessary assortment of fitting profile elements that help give a finished look to any of the surfaces lined with this material.

— Outside corner covers the joint of panels on external corners. Its design allows you to hide the joints of cut unsightly edges.

— F-profile is used to decorate the edges of the finishing structure. You can’t do without it, for example, when lining window slopes, or when finishing a ceiling that has several tiers.

— The joining profile is used in cases where the lining changes its direction. For example, panels are first installed on the ceiling along and then across, which helps to divide the surface into different design zones.

— Internal corner installed at the junction of the ceiling and walls, if it is not planned to install a ceiling plinth in this place.

— The starting profile can be installed in different places of the structure, where it is necessary to close the edge of the plastic panel.

— Ceiling plinth is mounted along the perimeter of the ceiling before installing the lining panels, giving the design neatness and completeness. To connect the plinth at the corners, special connecting corners will be needed, under which the cut edges of the plinth are hidden.

  • The material from which the panels are made is environmentally friendly and recognized by the Ministry of Health as safe for the human body.
  • The surface decorated with plastic panels is easy to clean and can be cleaned both wet and dry.
  • The service life of this material is correct installation and care, can be 10 ÷ 12 years, without losing the original appearance.
  • The ease of installation allows, even without experience in this work, to carry out the process of installing the material on the desired surface independently, without the involvement of specialists.
  • Price for plastic lining- not too high, so if one or more panels are damaged, they can be replaced with new ones, without damaging the rest of the surface.

Criteria for choosing plastic ceiling panels

When buying PVC panels, you need to rely on several selection criteria:

  • Panel sizes: width, thickness and length.

The length of the water needs to be said separately - it must be chosen in such a way that there is as little waste as possible. For example, with a room width of 2400 mm, it is worth purchasing lining 2500 or 5000 mm long.

  • Since panels can be of different quality, their prices also vary significantly. You should not purchase cheap finishing materials, as they will last less long than high-quality ones. Determining the quality of the panels is not so difficult, paying attention to the following points:

— Appearance: correctness of the panel geometry, surface quality, its evenness and uniform distribution of the pattern. Stiffening ribs installed inside the lining should not appear on its surface.

In high-quality panels, the thickness of the outer walls should be at least 1.5–2 mm, the same applies to the stiffeners - the more stable they are, the longer the material will last. If the ribs bend when pressed with your fingers, this indicates low quality of the material, since they should not react to such impact.


— The surface should be uniform and perfectly flat to the touch; longitudinal and transverse distortions are unacceptable.

— It is also necessary to check the ease of joining the two panels. To do this, you need to connect them and see whether you get a single plane without gaps, or whether the surface has unforeseen gaps. Quality panels should fit together easily, the tenon should go completely into the groove, without leaving clearly visible traces of assembly on the surface.


Checking the quality of the material - when bending, the plastic should not break

— Another quality criterion is testing the plastic for bending. To do this, you need to bend and straighten the corner of the protruding mounting strip near the panel groove several times. If after these manipulations there are no traces left on its surface and it remains intact, it means that the material used for manufacturing was of high quality, and the technology for molding the parts was fully observed.

Prices for popular types of plastic ceiling panels

Plastic ceiling panels

Calculation of the required amount of materials

In order to calculate the required amount of lining to decorate the ceiling in a certain room, you need to make the following calculations:

  • Determine the area of ​​the ceiling and one panel.
  • Then the resulting surface size must be divided by the panel area - the result will be the number of elements required for installation.
  • It is recommended to add 15% to the result obtained, and then this number is rounded up to a whole number.
  • To determine the length of the fitting starting profile and ceiling cornice, add up two lengths and two widths of the ceiling surface, and then add 15% of the resulting total perimeter to it.
  • To know how much metal profile or wooden beam is required for installation of the frame, which will be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling and on its surface, you need to carry out the following calculation:

— You can determine the length of the frame elements installed around the perimeter in the same way as when calculating the required number of starting profiles.

— Then the size of the ceiling surface between the walls must be divided into equal sections with a length of 400 to 600 mm. Later, lines will pass through them along which the middle guide battens will be fixed - this will determine the amount of timber (metal profile), and its length will be equal to the width or length of the room, depending on the planned orientation of the finishing material.

If timber is chosen for the frame, its cross-section should be 20×50 mm.

In the case when it is chosen for the sheathing metallic profile, to calculate the number of parts that may be required to install the frame, you can use the table:

Appearance of partsPart name and size in mmUnitConsumption rate per 1 sq.m
Ceiling profile CD 60/27Linear meter3.2
Profile extension 60/110. Used to increase, if necessary, the length of the main profilePC.0.6
Direct ceiling suspension 60/27PC.1.3
Single-level connector (crab) 60/27PC.Can be used to strengthen the frame, for example, when installing additional jumpers or in places where lamps are installed. The quantity is calculated by location.
Self-tapping screw TN 25PC.17
Dowels for fastening frame elements on the ceilingPC.1.3

In addition, you will need to purchase screws with a wide head (press washer), with which the lining will be attached to a metal profile or wooden beam, at the rate of 1 piece. per 500 mm length of lining panels.

What else needs to be done before installing the sheathing?

Even if the unsightly surface of the ceiling is completely covered with plastic panels, this does not mean that it does not need to be put in order.

It is necessary to carry out certain repair work - and, if necessary, even with subsequent priming of the surface with antifungal compounds. Recommendations for performing these operations are on the pages of our portal.

Installation of lathing under ceiling panels

Ceiling markings

Whatever material is chosen for the frame, the markings before attaching it are done in approximately the same way.

  • The ceiling on opposite sides of the room is marked into equal sections.
  • Then a colored twine is taken, stretched along the length or width of the room, and straight lines are struck on the ceiling along which the frame guides will be attached.

  • Lines are also drawn along the perimeter of the ceiling, since bars or profiles will primarily be attached in these areas. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that if the ceiling is lowered on suspensions, then markings for the outer profiles are made on the walls below the joint line to the distance that the plan is to lower the entire structure.
  • If the sheathing will not be mounted on the ceiling surface itself, but in a suspended state, lowered at a certain distance, marks are made on the broken lines, at a distance of 500 ÷ 700 mm from each other, along which the hangers will be fixed.

Frame installation


There are several ways to attach the frame:

1. Installation of the frame, which planned to be lowered to a certain distance, begins with securing the suspensions at the marked points of the broken lines. To do this, holes are drilled in the ceiling through a plumb line using a drill, into which two or three dowels are driven. In this way, the suspensions are fixed on the entire surface of the ceiling.


  • Next, a metal profile is fixed to the walls along the marked lines. Holes are also drilled through it in the wall in increments of 300 ÷ 350 mm, and dowels are driven into them.

  • After this, a metal profile is installed in the hangers at the required height, and fixed on both sides with metal screws.

  • ends suspended profile are installed in a guide profile on the walls and are also secured with two self-tapping screws.

  • If desired, instead of a suspended metal profile 60×27, you can use wooden beams.
  • After this, in the places where the lamps will be fixed, the profile or slats are reinforced with jumpers.

They can be secured using “crabs”, or by cutting the profiles at the corners and bending them at right angles.

2. Another option for securing a wooden frame is to install the timber directly on the ceiling or on pads that are used instead of hangers.


  • The edges of wooden beams on the walls are also installed and secured in metal guide profiles or also on a beam installed on the wall and fixed with metal corners.

  • The timber is nailed to the ceiling with dowels through holes drilled through it. In this case, you need to purchase dowels of such length that they enter the ceiling 50 ÷ 60 mm.
  • If between the ceiling and wooden frame wooden supports will be installed required thickness, then they are attached to the ceiling, and timber is screwed onto them using self-tapping screws.

After completing the installation of the frame, it is stretched between its elements electrical wiring for installation of lighting fixtures.


Electric wires It is recommended, for safety reasons, to be pulled through a special insulating material that can be attached to hangers or side parts of a metal profile. When installing wiring, the cables must not be electrically powered. Connection is carried out only after completion of all work on fixing the lining and installing lamps.

Installation of plastic panels


Installation of PVC panels is carried out in the same way, What on a metal profile frame, What on made of wooden beams. It is worth noting that screwing self-tapping screws into wood is easier than using metal elements, but, on the other hand, the frame is made of galvanized profile - in total it is much lighter in weight.

So, the installation of plastic panels occurs in the following sequence:

  • Along the perimeter of the ceiling, a starting U-shaped strip is screwed onto a metal profile or wooden beam.

  • Instead, a mounting rail can be attached ceiling plinth, if you plan to install it.

  • Next, the ceiling plinth itself is installed into the strip, which, together with the strip, forms a gap for installing plastic panels into it.
  • To make it crystal clear how these two parts are mounted, you need to carefully consider the following photo.

  • Next, the first sheathing panel is installed in the U-shaped profile or in the gap formed by the ceiling plinth and strip.

  • The lining panel is leveled and screwed to each beam or frame profile with a self-tapping screw with a wide head.

  • The next panel is inserted with its tenon into the groove of the previous one, thereby hiding the screw head. It is necessary to ensure complete insertion of the mating elements along the entire length of the panel, so that there are no gaps or distortions. The inserted panel is fixed in the same way - using self-tapping screws.
  • In the future, these operations are repeated with each next panel.

  • On the lining panels that fall into the place where it is to be installed, holes are cut out before installation, and the cable is passed through them immediately during installation.
  • The difficulty is in installing the last cladding element, since this process must be carried out very carefully. The main catch here is that the panel fits into the groove of the previous one and into the gap of the starting profile or ceiling plinth. This is difficult to do, so it will be easier to attach the panel to the wall with self-tapping screws, and then the heads will be hidden by the ceiling plinth.

  • The last step is to close the joints with a special corner, which covers the sections of this decorative and functional element.
  • After completing the installation of the casing electrical cables Spotlights are attached.

Switching electrical wiring of lamps...
  • The cable is then tucked under installed panel, and the lamp is inserted into the hole, fixed on special metal “ears” - spacers.

... and installation of lamps in the sockets intended for them.

Craftsmen who professionally install ceiling cladding from any type of lining recommend that during the installation of panels, constantly monitor the evenness of its rows, since bevel of one of them will entail a decrease in the quality of assembly of the entire surface of the ceiling.

Video: step by step Video instruction for installation of ceiling panels

Carry out a similar ceiling update using the recommendations and choosing necessary materials, within the power of every home owner. Therefore, if such a desire arises, you need to boldly take on the work and carry it out slowly, carefully performing each technological operation.

You can try other ceiling finishing options.

Yes, many people like it. True, here, most likely, you will have to face the need for careful decoration.