A simple device for sharpening drills with your own hands. Making a homemade sharpening machine for drills Do-it-yourself metal drill sharpening device

When working with hard workpieces, the working surface of the drill wears out quickly. A dull drill becomes very hot and loses strength. This occurs due to the “releasing” of the metal. The tool must be sharpened periodically. However, this applies not only to drills.

Drills are inexpensive devices. In any case, those models that are used in household. However, it is wasteful to buy a new tip every time it becomes dull.

There are factory-made sharpening devices, but this violates the concept of economical use of home tools.

Wood drills practically do not become dull, except that the tool can be “driven” at high speeds into a resinous workpiece. Pobedite tips cannot be sharpened with stones. All that remains is to sharpen the drill for metal. Many experienced locksmiths carry out this procedure without any equipment.

However, the accuracy of the work leaves much to be desired, and not everyone has an eye home handyman developed so professionally. In any case, minimal mechanization is necessary.

How to make a homemade device for sharpening drills?

First of all, you need to acquire a means of control. No matter how you sharpen the drill, you need a template to check the accuracy of the work.

Conventional drills for working with ferrous metals have an edge angle of 115-120 degrees. If you have to work with different materials– check out the table of angles:

Knowing these values, you can prepare several templates and, in accordance with them, sharpen yourself. In this case, the same drill can be used for different workpieces; you just need to change the angle of the top of the working area.

Having picked up correct drawing devices for drill sharpening, you can make homemade full-fledged equipment at home. Thanks to this device, the task of providing the required geometric shape tool.

When using it, there is no need to worry not only about the rotation of potentially dangerous sharpening stones, but also about the sharpening angles, which must be maintained correctly, catching every degree by hand.

Features of using homemade sharpening devices

During the process of drilling holes in metal products, drills wear out quite a lot, which leads to their heating and loss of their properties. To avoid this phenomenon, measures are required to ensure regular restoration of their geometric parameters. This can be done using special equipment for sharpening drilling tools. The creation of such a simple device can be done independently, which will allow for high-quality sharpening without any significant financial costs.

Many experienced professionals practically do not use sharpening devices, since they are absolutely confident in their experience and eye, which allows them to sharpen drills correctly. But in practice, the use of such devices is extremely necessary, as this allows mechanization this process. As a result of such work, maximum accuracy and quality of sharpening will be ensured.

The modern market offers different kinds equipment that allows high-quality restoration of geometry cutting tools, even if you have no experience in this matter. At the same time, there is no urgent need to purchase such products, since they can be made with your own hands according to the existing drawings of devices for sharpening drills.

Drawings of simple devices

The simplest devices for sharpening can be bushings, inner diameter which corresponds to the transverse dimensions of the drills. The sleeve is rigidly fixed into a reliable base, taking into account a certain angle. When selecting a bushing for such devices, you should pay attention to the correspondence of its internal diameter with the transverse size of the tools being sharpened. It is prohibited for the tools being processed to dangle in the sleeve, since even with a deviation of 1-2 degrees along the axis from the required values, the quality and accuracy of sharpening can significantly decrease.

Such homemade devices To sharpen drills, they must be equipped with clips. Copper or aluminum tubes, the internal diameter of which is equal to standard size drilling tool used.

In some cases, the task can be simplified by installing on this design wooden block, in which holes must be drilled with a diameter corresponding to the tool used. One of essential elements Such a product is considered to have a tool rest, which is necessary for:

• ensuring correct fixation of the drilling tool and the possibility of precise movement in relation to the surface of the abrasive stone;
• creating a stop point for the drill being sharpened.

Such products made from oak bars, which have holes of different sizes, are the most reliable. Thanks to them, high-quality and precise sharpening of tools is performed. The main task that must be solved by a homemade machine or similar device is the correct orientation of the cutting part of the tools being processed to obtain the accuracy of the required sharpening angle.

For the manufacture of homemade machine For sharpening drills, a number of different design variations of such equipment can be used. If you have the appropriate drawings and understand the operating principle of this equipment, you can make sharpening equipment yourself at home.

The structure consists of the following elements:

Promopore site

Holder for drill and stop screw

Bolts, nuts, pins, screws

Exist important rules that must be observed during the operation of such a device, namely, the tool being sharpened should not rotate around its axis. In case of even a slight rotation, sharpening must be done again.

The sharpened tool must be cooled in a natural way. After which you should check its restored geometric parameters. You can use a template for this. It should be taken into account that each cutting edge of the drill may differ from each other by no more than a tenth of a mm. Wherein, Special attention It is worth paying attention to this parameter if the drills have a small diameter.

Video “Device for sharpening drills according to drawing”

Drawing of a full-fledged device

A fairly simple way to make homemade sharpening equipment, which is practically no different from the factory product. To assemble it according to ready-made drawings it takes about 1.5-2 hours.

To make a device for sharpening drills with your own hands, you must provide the following: Supplies, equipment and tools:

• welding machine;
• electric drill;
• Bulgarians;
• standard locksmith tool kit;
• a corner, the size of the shelves is 30x30, and its length is 100-150 mm;
• metal plates having different thickness(3-5 mm);
• pins or a piece of steel rods, the diameter of which is 10-12 mm;
• washers, screws, bolts and nuts of various sizes.

First of all, the manufacturing of the bed is carried out, which will be the base in the sharpening device. To do this, use a steel plate onto which a steel rod (12 mm in diameter) is welded at an angle of 75 degrees. It will be the axis.

After that, a washer should be placed on the welded rod, which will act as a support bearing. The amount of angle and rotation of the bed when sharpening the drill will be insignificant, so there is no reason to use a standard ball bearing.

The bed where the sharpened tool will be placed is made from a prepared corner. One side on the corner profile that faces the side whetstone, it is necessary to grind at an angle of 60 degrees. On the stock, according to the drawing, a bracket is welded, through which the rotating unit of the device will be fixed. As a result, a structure will be made, the corners of which, in the case of a parallel position of the bed and frame, should be located to the surface of the abrasive stone in accordance with the angle of the drill being sharpened.

U sharpening machine, which is presented in the drawing, fixed angles of inclination are provided, but for greater possibilities it is desirable to provide the ability to adjust the angles. In such cases, there will be a greater chance of using the device if it is necessary to restore tools with different sharpening angles, for example, if it is necessary to sharpen drills for metal, concrete, etc.

To create a more functional unit, you can use drawings of other designs that can adjust the angles:

Video “Device made according to drawing”

Drills come in different varieties, but in practice we often use those designed for working with metals. Despite the fact that such a tool is made from special grades of steel and is subjected to special hardening, it becomes dull over time. A thrifty owner will never throw away even the cheapest twist drill, since its functionality can easily be restored independently, especially since in a private house or garage such a person always has “el/emery” (the simplest grinder). How to sharpen a metal drill correctly will be discussed in this article.

Sharpening varies, and this largely depends on both the diameter of the drill and the specifics of its application. For example, on the type of metal with which you are supposed to work (“hard” or “soft”).

What to pay attention to

• During operation, the edge is positioned strictly parallel to the working surface of the stone (the axis of the sharpener).
• The main thing is gradual sharpening. It is not advisable to “press” the drill too hard against the circle.
• The length of all edges must be the same.
• An indicator of the completion of the work is the absence of reflective glare on the surface being treated.

You need to know that there is no universal meaning. For each type of material processed, its own sharpening angle is selected. Approximate values ​​are shown in the table.

Types of sharpening

Single-plane

Typically used for drills no larger than 3 mm. The disadvantage is that during the work, partial “chipping” of the edge may occur, so this technique requires special care. The point is that the tool is applied to the circle and moves parallel to its working surface.

Conical

Suitable for drills larger than 3mm. The tool is held with both hands, while sequential sharpening of the feathers is carried out (light pressure against the stone with a slight “swing”).

Finishing

It is advisable to do this after the drill has been sharpened. The task is to remove the smallest nicks and polish the cutting edges. For this, an appropriate stone (“soft”) is used.

For many people, self-sharpening a tool using electric sandpaper is associated with certain difficulties or becomes impossible. The reason is poor vision.

Judging by messages on various forums, neither good lighting nor glasses with large diopters help. Those for whom this is really a problem can be advised to purchase a special machine. For example, made in China. It is inexpensive - about 1,500 rubles.

And despite the fact that our attitude towards products from this country is, to put it mildly, “wary”, such products (for example, “Caliber-ezs 200s”) are spoken of very well by those who have already worked with them. The range of machines is quite large, so there is always a choice (Mikra-10 and a number of others).

To ensure greater sharpening accuracy and facilitate this process, a special device can be made. Its meaning is clear from the picture.

If you don’t have electric sandpaper at hand (and strict requirements for the angle), then you can use a grinder to sharpen the drill.

A video from respected master Viktor Leontiev clearly demonstrates the entire process, so if some of the nuances of sharpening remain unclear, it’s worth watching:

In principle, you can bring a dull tool into proper condition manually. But how high will the speed and accuracy be with such technology? In addition, if the drill is carbide, this is quite difficult to do. The author suggests assembling a machine for sharpening drills with your own hands, which will allow you to use them many times.

Equipment industrial production It is quite expensive - from 43,900 rubles.

True, Chinese products (for example, “GQ-D13”) can be bought for 6,800 – 7,200.

But it is unlikely that such cheap models will suit the home craftsman, given that the body is made of plastic, and the motor power is in the range of 80 - 120 W. In addition, they can only sharpen certain types of drills, so there is no need to talk about universal use. Therefore, such machines do not count. The feasibility of making a “sharpener” with your own hands for domestic use is more than obvious.

This article does not discuss options for manufacturing a sharpening machine based on an angle grinder (“a grinder is not available in every home, and hardly anyone will buy it only for these purposes) or an electric drill (which you will have to look for in stores special devices). The simplest and convenient option- a traditional “sharpening machine” made from scrap materials, which almost all of us have encountered, and more than once.

There is nothing complicated in the design of such a machine. However, there are a number of features in assembling it yourself, and this is what the author draws attention to. Having dealt with all the nuances, making an installation for “home” use will not be difficult ().

What you will need for assembly

Electric/engine

Various drills are sharpened on the machine in everyday life, including large diameter. In addition, the primary processing of the cutting edges of the tool and their finishing are separate stages of work. Therefore, you will have to change the circle and install the one that is at hand from those purchased in advance. Since the machine is long-term equipment, it is necessary to install it for the future. Based on this:

• engine power: about 1.2 – 1.5 kW is sufficient;
• power: single-phase. Any garage or small workshop (shed) on the site, with rare exceptions, is connected to the 1ph 220/50 line. This is what we need to proceed from.

Grinding wheel

Moreover, there should be several of them, with different grain sizes. To securely fix the abrasive on the engine shaft, bushings are prepared that clamp it on both sides.

Sharpening device

You can limit yourself to the simplest “shelf”, but then you will not be able to maintain the required angle. This type of work requires a lot of practical experience.

The device can be purchased, although it is quite rare on sale.

The best option is to make it yourself. For example, like this:

Schematic elements

• Magnetic starter (with 3 pairs of contacts) for a 3-phase circuit.
• Start/stop button or 2 different ones - to turn the machine on and off. And the third one is definitely an emergency stop. It is often combined with a pedal, which is much more convenient and safer, since your hands will be busy when sharpening drills.
• Wires. With the indicated engine power, 1 “square” is enough.

The simplest connection diagrams for three-phase motors are shown in the figures:

It’s easy to find an acceptable one on the Internet, depending on what kind of motor is used, how its windings are connected (“star” or “delta”), and what voltage source it will be connected to (1 or 3 phases).

Security elements

• The casing is over the circle.
• Screen (preferably).

There are certain types of work in which sharpening of drills is carried out only on machine equipment, and not manually.

• When drilling to great depths, when a slight sharpening is required.
• If the drills are universal, allowing you to work even with materials of increased density.
• For making “blind” holes with a special tool.

Sharpening drills using a grinder is not recommended for several reasons. Firstly, the angle grinder is unlikely to be securely fixed. Secondly, the accuracy will be unsatisfactory. Thirdly, after such sharpening is completed, it is quite difficult to properly fine-tune the drill. Fourthly, this technique is only suitable for partial recovery performance of a relatively small diameter tool (no more than 5).

Making a machine is not everything. It must be positioned correctly to make sharpening drills as convenient as possible. The location and height of installation is a personal matter for the master. But there is general requirement– eliminate the slightest vibration of the equipment and ensure its leveling.

If the workbench in the garage is rather flimsy, you will have to mount a special table on metal legs. A large corner, pipe or channel is suitable for this. The tabletop, taking into account the weight of the machine (primarily the engine), must be durable. Thin sheet iron is not an option. The stand for the machine can also be made of wood, but of sufficient thickness. Its fastening also requires attention. It must be as reliable as possible, at all points provided on the engine frame, and only on bolts.

When deciding on the engine switching circuit, you need to provide for the possibility of changing the speed. Since you will have to work with various drills, you need to know that the harder the material of the tool, the lower the angular speed of rotation of the abrasive wheel should be.

As practice shows, not all inexperienced craftsmen understand when a drill needs sharpening. Signs indicating that the tool is dull:

• grinding (sometimes "humming") sound initial stage drilling;
• rapid heating of the metal, often accompanied by a characteristic odor.

Untimely sharpening significantly reduces the service life of the drill and is the most common cause its breakdown.