Laying out floor slabs on gas silicate blocks. Supporting and laying the floor slab on a wall made of gas silicate blocks - execution of work

Currently, in our country, the most popular are three methods of constructing floors in a house. This is the installation of floor slabs, the installation of monolithic iron concrete floor and installation of ceilings on wooden (less often metal) beams. We will definitely talk about all these methods and more. And the first technology we will consider is installation finished slabs ceilings

First, a little about the floor slabs themselves. Depending on their shape, all slabs can be divided into flat and ribbed. Flat ones, in turn, are divided into solid and hollow. We are now interested in empty ones, because... It is this type of slab that is used mainly in low-rise construction.

Hollow core slabs, in turn, are also classified according to various parameters, such as the shape and size of voids, slab thickness, slab manufacturing technology, reinforcement method.

I will not delve into the topic of classification. It is better to look for this information on the websites of manufacturers of reinforced concrete products (reinforced concrete products). We'd better talk directly about installation.

The very first point that you need to pay attention to even at the stage of designing your future home is the opportunity to purchase in your area exactly the slabs of the sizes that are included in the project. Each manufacturer has its own specific range of products and it is always limited. This is really important and I am surprised that very often developers forget about this recommendation and then they have to either cut one or more slabs or do it on the floor monolithic site. We'll talk more about this below.

Storing floor slabs at a construction site.

Of course, it’s great if you have the opportunity to lay floor slabs immediately when they are delivered directly from the car that brought them. But most often this does not happen. Or the driver insists that you unload the slabs as quickly as possible, because... he is in a hurry for the next order, or the slabs are not laid on the machine in the order you need, or you simply bought them in advance and are not going to lay them yet. In all these cases, the slabs will need to be stored on your site.

Try to choose a flat surface for this. Never place slabs directly on the ground. Be sure to put something under the edges of the slab, for example, trimmings wooden beam. There should be only two pads, at a distance of approximately 25-40 cm from the edges. Pads cannot be placed under the middle of the slab.

The slabs can be stored in stacks up to 2.5 meters high. Make the shims for the first slab higher, so that if they are possibly pressed into the ground when laying subsequent slabs, the first slab should never touch the ground, otherwise it could easily break. It is enough to make all subsequent linings even from an inch (2.5 cm). They must be stacked strictly one above the other.

Preparation for installation of floor slabs.

Preparation begins at the moment when the masons cast out the last rows of masonry. The slabs will lie flat and without differences if the upper rows of load-bearing walls are level and in the same horizontal plane.

To achieve this, there must be horizontal level marks in all corners of the room being covered. They are installed during the construction of walls using a level, or laser level, or hydraulic level. And when the last row of masonry is done, the distance from the marks to the top of the walls is controlled with a tape measure. It should be the same in all corners. From my experience I can tell you for sure that some masons neglect this, especially when they do backfill masonry at the same time as the face masonry, which is done “under the rod”.

The top row of load-bearing walls must be bonded. That is, if you look from the inside of the covered room, then on the load-bearing walls (on which the floor slabs rest) in the very top row of the masonry, only the pokes should be visible.

If the slabs are placed on a load-bearing partition 1.5 bricks thick (that is, the slabs rest on it on both sides), then the top row of such a partition is laid out in one of two ways:

Before laying floor slabs on walls made of various blocks (foam concrete, gas silicate, slag, etc.), it is necessary to make reinforced concrete belt(usually about 15-20 cm thick). Such a belt is made either by pouring concrete into the formwork, or using special U-shaped blocks along the entire perimeter of the house box, i.e. not only by load-bearing walls, but also for non-carrying ones.

During installation hollow core slabs overlapping holes in them must be sealed. It is much more convenient to do this in advance, while the slabs are still on the ground. In general, SNiP prescribes that voids must be sealed on the side of the slab that rests on outer wall(to reduce the likelihood of freezing of the slab), and from the side that rests on internal partition, only starting from the third floor from the top of the house and below (to increase strength). That is, if, for example, the house has a basement ceiling, a ceiling between the 1st and 2nd floors and attic floor above the 2nd floor, it is mandatory to fill the voids on the side of the load-bearing partitions only in the basement floor.

I will say that we always seal holes when laying slabs. Moreover, in Lately More and more often, round-hollow slabs come from factories with holes already filled. It's comfortable. If the holes are not sealed, we insert a one-and-a-half brick (you can even use half) into them and fill the remaining cracks with mortar.

Also, before installing the slabs, it is necessary to prepare the site for the crane in advance. It’s good if in the place where the crane will stand the soil is, as they say, compacted. It's worse when the soil is bulky. If you have a basement, you should not place the faucet too close to the house, in order to avoid what is shown in the figure below:

In such cases, it is better to order a truck crane with a longer boom. Also, sometimes in the place where the crane will stand, you first have to put several road slabs (usually used ones are found somewhere). Often this has to be done in the fall in rainy and slushy weather, when the area is so “broken” that the crane simply gets stuck on it.

Laying floor slabs.

Sufficient for installation of floor slabs three people. One hooks the slabs, two lay them down. If you want, you can do it together, although not always. It happens that when covering, for example, the second floor, the installers and the crane operator do not see each other. Then, at the top, in addition to the 2 people directly laying the slab, there must be another person who will give commands to the crane operator.

Laying begins from the wall on a layer of mortar no more than 2 cm. The mortar should be thick enough so that the slab does not squeeze it completely out of the seam. After the crane operator places the slab on the walls, he first leaves the slings taut. At the same time, using a crowbar, if necessary, it is not difficult to move the slab a little. If the upper surfaces of the load-bearing walls were made smooth, then the slabs will lie evenly, without differences, as they say, “from the first approach.”

Regarding the amount of support of the slabs on the walls, I will give an extract from the document “A manual for the design of residential buildings. Vol. 3 (to SNiP 2.08.01-85) 6. COLORS:

Paragraph 6.16.: The depth of support of prefabricated slabs on walls, depending on the nature of their support, is recommended to be no less than, mm: when supported along the contour, as well as two long and one short sides - 40; when supported on two sides and the span of slabs is 4.2 m or less, as well as on two short and one long sides - 50; when supported on two sides and the span of the slabs is more than 4.2 m - 70.

When assigning the depth of support for floor slabs, you should also take into account the requirements of SNiP 2.03.01-84 for anchoring reinforcement on supports.

In our practice, we try to make the support no less than 12 cm, fortunately now it is possible to purchase exactly the slabs that are needed. The step of their lengths is 10 cm.

I often hear debates about whether it is possible to support hollow-core floor slabs on three sides (two short and one long) and how far the long side of the slab can be placed on the wall. From what is written above, it follows that it is possible to support the slabs this way. But it is not so. If you read the specified SNiP, it says that slabs that rest on three sides have a different reinforcement pattern than those that rest on only two sides.

The vast majority of hollow core slabs that are currently produced by concrete factories are designed specifically to be supported on two short sides, so it is not recommended to place them on the wall with their long side. Under a certain load, this can lead to cracking of the slab. The reinforcement scheme and, therefore, the possibility of supporting the slab on a third side must be clarified with the manufacturer.

Another mistake associated with improper loading of the slab is covering two spans at once (see figure below):

Under certain unfavorable conditions, the slab may crack, and the location of the crack is completely unpredictable. If you still use such a scheme, use a grinder to make a cut (to the depth of the disk) on the upper surface of the slab strictly above the middle partition. Thus, if something happens, the crack will pass precisely along this cut, which, in principle, is no longer scary.

Of course, it’s good if we manage to cover ourselves exclusively with whole slabs. But circumstances are different and yet sometimes some slab (or even more than one) has to be cut lengthwise or crosswise. To do this you will need a grinder with diamond blade on concrete, a sledgehammer, a crowbar and not the weakest guy at a construction site.

To make work easier, it is better to place the slab on a lining. Moreover, this lining is placed exactly under the cut line. At a certain moment, the slab will simply break along this line from its own weight.

First of all, we make a cut on the upper surface of the slab with a grinder along the cut line. Then, striking with a sledgehammer from above, we cut a strip along the top of the slab. It is quite easy to penetrate concrete in void areas. Next, we use a crowbar to break through the lower part of the slab (also through the voids). When cutting a slab lengthwise (we always cut along the hole in the slab), it breaks quite quickly. When chopping across, if the slab does not break after breaking the lower part with a crowbar, blows from the side with a sledgehammer vertical partitions slabs until victory.

During the cutting process, we cut the reinforcement that comes across. You can use a grinder, but it’s safer to use welding or a gas cutter, especially when the reinforcement in the slab is pre-stressed. The grinder disc can bite. To prevent this from happening, do not cut the reinforcement completely, leave a couple of millimeters and then tear it apart with a blow from the same sledgehammer.

Several times in our practice we had the opportunity to cut slabs lengthwise. But we have never used, so to speak, “stumps” less than 60 cm wide (less than 3 holes remain), and I do not advise you to. In general, when deciding to cut a slab, full responsibility for possible consequences You take full responsibility for this, because not a single manufacturer will officially tell you that cutting a slab is possible.

Let's now see what can be done if you still don't have enough slabs to completely cover the room:

Method 1- we place the first or last (maybe both) slabs without bringing the long side to the wall. We fill the remaining gap with bricks or blocks, hanging them no more than half from the wall (see figure):

Method 2— we make the so-called “monolithic section”. Plywood formwork is placed below the slabs, and reinforcement cage(see figure below) and the area between the slabs is filled with concrete.

Anchoring of floor slabs.

After all the slabs are laid, they are anchored. In general, if the construction of a house is carried out according to a project, then it must contain an anchoring scheme. When there is no project, we usually use the circuit shown in the figure:

The anchor is made by bending the end into a loop, which clings to the mounting loop of the slab. Before welding the anchors to each other and to the mounting loops, they must be tensioned as much as possible.

After anchoring, we immediately seal all mounting eyes in the slabs and rustications (seams between the slabs) with mortar. Try not to delay this so as not to get rusted construction garbage, and water did not pour into the eyelets during rain and snow. If you suspect that water has gotten into the slabs (for example, you bought slabs with voids already filled in, and rainwater could have gotten in even while being stored at the factory), it is better to release it. To do this, after installation, simply drill one small hole in the slabs from below with a hammer drill, into the voids where the mounting lugs are located.

It is especially dangerous to find water in voids in winter time when the house is not yet heated (or not completed at all) and the slabs freeze below zero. Water saturates the bottom layer of concrete, and with repeated freezing-thawing cycles, the slab simply begins to collapse.

Another way to secure the slabs is to construct a so-called concrete ring anchor. This is a kind of the same monolithic reinforced belt, only it is not made under the slabs, but in the same plane with them, also around the entire perimeter of the house. More often this method is used on foam concrete and other blocks.

Let me make a reservation right away that we have never used it because it is much more labor intensive. I think that a ring anchor is justified in more earthquake-prone regions than our Nizhny Novgorod region.

At the end of the article, I suggest you look short video, which deals with the choice of floor slabs:

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Hollow core slabs and aerated concrete walls

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Considering the construction of a cottage using Ytong aerated concrete blocks or regardless of the manufacturer. Aerated concrete blocks Grasse, Ytong, bonolit- the customer asks the question, is it possible to cover the floor with hollow-core floor slabs when constructing aerated concrete walls from ytong aerated concrete blocks, Gras aerated concrete blocks, and foam blocks? The answer is clear - if you are constructing aerated concrete walls of a cottage in accordance with the standards for the design and construction of buildings and structures set out in STO-501-52-01-2007 and accordingly use a Ytong aerated concrete block or aerated concrete Gras block, a foam block with physical and technical characteristics corresponding to this standard, then the application is moreover advisable.

Let's consider the feasibility of using hollow core floor slabs:

1-reinforced concrete hollow core slabs have a service life that does not require overhaul or replacing a similar operational period of the entire house for 100 years. The same cannot be said about wooden floors.

2-hollow slabs are fireproof and have good fire resistance, which also cannot be said about wooden floors

3- Having a lower weight of 1 m2 of about 300 kg/m2 in comparison with a monolithic reinforced concrete floor of at least 450 kg/m2. They have the same load-bearing capacity, which reduces supporting part foundation and, accordingly, the consumption of materials for the construction of the foundation and the cost of the entire foundation of the cottage are reduced.

4- Taking into account the construction costs of 1 m2 monolithic ceiling and the cost of building 1 m2 of flooring from hollow core slabs - it becomes clear that the cost of 1 m2 monolithic slab floors are 45-60% more expensive, depending on the thickness of the monolithic reinforced concrete floor and its reinforcement.

5-The use of hollow-core floor slabs, in comparison with a monolithic reinforced concrete floor, does not require highly qualified workers, which is important today.

6- Application of prestressed hollow core slabs type P.B. reinforced according to the principle of tension "STRINGS" make it possible to cover a span of up to 9.0 meters with hollow core slabs, which is very, very difficult to achieve using simple wooden beam beams, and monolithic reinforced concrete floor 9.0 meters long is practically impossible to use on a cottage with aerated concrete walls.

However, it must be understood that the use of hollow-core floor slabs requires, in turn, compliance with certain requirements, which are set out in design standards and construction standards. In particular, the supporting part in the hollow slab in the support unit and the design of the support unit itself are strictly regulated. On an aerated concrete wall built from aerated concrete blocks Ytong or aerated concrete blocks Grasse, a hollow-core floor slab can only be supported under certain conditions, and these conditions are calculated; of course, such a calculation is hardly available to an ordinary developer, and therefore I do not recommend using it in the absence of a project. The “neighbor” principle often fails and is not permissible when installing hollow-core floor slabs. Still, it hangs over your head...

A more accessible and understandable principle of supporting a hollow-core floor slab is on a monolithic reinforced concrete belt, and the area of ​​support on the concrete part of the monolithic reinforced concrete belt should not be less than 80mm. And the end of the slab must have thermal insulation in the aerated concrete wall to prevent freezing of this zone aerated concrete wall cottage built from Ytong aerated concrete blocks. When constructing walls from aerated concrete blocks 375 mm thick from other manufacturers without additional insulation V climatic zone central region not enough. With a greater thickness of the aerated concrete wall at certain constructive solutions, additional thermal insulation of the aerated concrete wall in the area of ​​the ends of the mounted hollow-core slabs may not be required.

There is one more feature in the support units used, provided that the floor is covered with hollow-core floor slabs; the use of large support units for large spans, where deflections occur, increasing the support part beyond 150 mm is no longer safe for the wall. And in the absence of a project, we must not go beyond this figure.

Today, along with traditional PC-type hollow-core floor slabs, so-called hollow-core floor slabs are widely used. So, these reinforced concrete hollow-core floor slabs do not have transverse reinforcement and can only be supported on two sides. But these slabs have an advantage over reinforced concrete hollow PC slabs. Since they do not have transverse reinforcement, and these reinforced concrete hollow-core slabs have prestressed reinforcement, both in the lower flange of the hollow-core slab and in the upper flange of the hollow-core slab, then from these hollow-core slabs, sections can be cut along the hollow-core slab and used as slabs floors, lintels or beams with appropriate spans and under appropriate loads.

We are ready to answer all questions regarding the use of prefabricated reinforced concrete hollow-core floor slabs in cottage construction at our telephone numbers listed on the website.

Overlap is Basic structure, intended for separating floors in large-panel construction or separating living rooms from attic spaces in brick, frame private houses. It is located horizontally, usually consists of reinforced concrete slabs, but can be monolithic or prefabricated monolithic. Must be strong enough to support its own weight, other parts of the structure and current loads (furniture, people, etc.). Installation of floor slabs is usually carried out according to a project drawn up by engineers, which avoids unnecessary additional expenses and ensures the reliability of constructed buildings.

For private construction, you can calculate the plan yourself and select the appropriate materials. Reinforced concrete products for individual developers they are accessible, allow for hidden communications in voids, and have good sound insulation. In order to choose them correctly, it is advisable to navigate their types, types, and markings.

Concrete concrete floor slabs are as follows:

• hollow - have air cavities round section, due to which they have good sound-proofing and heat-insulating properties;
• ribbed - in the shape of the letter P, used for roofing, more often - in industrial construction for covering garages, hangars, warehouses, laying communications and other things;
• monolithic - reinforced structures of increased strength, designed for high loads, therefore they are usually used for the construction of multi-storey residential complexes.

Marking of floor slabs

The material certified according to GOST has a set of letters and numbers, after understanding which you can select the necessary equipment, taking into account the thickness, diameter of the cavities, length, width, type of reinforcement, number of supports.

The first two letters indicate the type of slab (PC - hollow, PR - ribbed, PB - monolithic) and the fact that it can be placed on 2 supports. The third letter “T” means the ability to lay the ceiling on the 3rd side (PKT). The additional “K” is a sign that the slab is placed on 4 load-bearing walls (PKK). If the letters “L” and “S” are indicated in the marking, then they indicate the type of concrete, respectively: light and silicate. The numbers following the letters show the size in decimeters; the values ​​are usually rounded, and the actual length is 20 mm less and the width is 10 mm less. Then the calculated load on the floor is indicated in hundreds of kg per m2 and the type of reinforcement.

For example, product marking PK63.12-3.AtVta is a hollow-core slab 6280 mm long, 1190 mm wide, withstanding 300 kgf/m2, with a reinforced bottom surface.

Calculation of floor slabs

Since the structure ensures the strength of the structure and puts pressure on the load-bearing walls with its weight, it is important to correctly distribute the load. This will ensure the reliability, durability of the building, and, of course, the safety of future residents. Incorrect calculation of the strength of the support and floor panel can lead to gradual cracking of the walls and deformation of the slab itself.

In an ordinary residential building, the load per 1 m 2 of floor is approximately the following: people - about 200 kg, partitions - 150 kg, screed and covering - approximately 150 kg. This is already 500 kg, and you also need to take into account furniture, equipment, household appliances and other things that will be in the room. Don’t forget about temporary loads either: festive table, two dozen guests, snow, rain, hail also have their own weight, so it is better to do the calculation with a reserve (if the foundation and load-bearing walls allow) than to check everything down to kg, and then be forced to limit the loads. Depending on the purpose of the floors (basement, basement, interfloor, attic), structures are designed differently.

Features of installation on your own

Before you begin, you must familiarize yourself with the standard technological map for laying floor slabs. It describes in detail the stages of work, equipment and safety precautions, and includes drawings.

To lay concrete products, lifting equipment is required; a crane operator and two certified slingers will be needed. Do-it-yourself installation of slabs without qualified assistants is contrary to safety regulations.

During unloading or work, it is not recommended to drag blocks or let them know free fall. Ideally
it is required to build supports (from wooden beams) specifically for storing the slabs. You can plan to lay the panels at once, lifting them directly from the truck: this will allow you to save a lot, since the crane operator has to pay for each lift, and the materials will be more intact.

The panels must be laid on cement mortar from M100 so that they rest on the load-bearing walls by at least 100 mm. In this case, you need to ensure that the position of the mounted floor slab is level and that each of them fits perfectly. It is recommended to check the level of the panels with each laying. If necessary, they are lifted by crane and repositioned. After finishing the masonry, the slabs are cleaned and the joints are filled. cement mortar.

The support unit of the floor slab of a brick residential building is usually 100-120 mm. The load-bearing masonry should not protrude beyond the width of the foundation, otherwise it may not support the weight.

Installation of slabs on gas silicate blocks requires larger area pressure on the supports (up to 250 mm), since they are less durable than baked brick. In this case, it is advisable to strengthen the walls with a reinforced belt.

Quality control of installation of floor panels

Installation of prefabricated monolithic ceiling

The advantages of this type of construction are low cost, relative safety of work, no need to rent lifting equipment and hire highly qualified workers. Small lightweight slabs can be used various types: cellular, ribbed, beam. But there is also a minus: it takes time for the concrete to set.

Laying beam-type slabs consists of the following steps:

• drawing up a work plan, calculating materials, fittings and other things;
• formwork assembly;
• installation of wooden or iron supports;
• installation of waterproofing on formwork made of roofing felt or polyethylene;
• reinforcement;
• laying slabs;
• repeated reinforcement (if necessary, depending on the type of beam);
• pouring with liquid mortar using cement grade from M300;
• after 28 days, remove the formwork.

Installation of cellular concrete slabs is carried out according to the same principle. It is important to install a canopy or cover the structure with film so that weather conditions do not affect the quality of the work.

Price

When buying slabs, pay attention that they are smooth, with a good surface, without radioactive background from the reinforcement. One product costs the buyer from 3,800 rubles. The price of laying slabs includes equipment rental, hiring a crew, and the cost of materials and electricity. A prefabricated monolithic ceiling with your own hands costs only 1,000 rubles/m2, since it does not require additional expenses.

They are usually made from prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs. There are several types of reinforced concrete floor slabs: cellular concrete, hollow-core made of heavy concrete and prefabricated monolithic floors. They are selected based on the span width and load-bearing capacity.

Most Applications found hollow-core floor slabs PC and PNO, with bearing capacity 800 kgf/m2.
Distinctive Features such floors are high strength, fire resistance, manufacturability and complete factory readiness for installation.
Floors made of hollow-core reinforced concrete slabs are used with load-bearing wall spacing of up to 9 meters. These floors are durable, fire-resistant, and provide the necessary spatial rigidity and stability of a residential building.
The slabs are laid closely and connected to each other by sealing the seams between them with cement mortar. To create a rigid single horizontal floor reinforced concrete slabs They are connected to each other and to the external walls using steel anchors attached to mounting loops. The gaps between the slabs when supported on interior walls filled with brick of the same brand as in the main masonry.

When using a concrete floor prerequisite is the device of a ring reinforced belt.

IN modern literature you can find several ways to construct a ring reinforced belt (armed belt):

So in one case, when the wall is made of lightweight cellular concrete and the support of the slab does not reach 250 mm. (usual support - 120 mm), use a distribution belt, through which the floor slabs rest on the wall (Fig. 1). Such a belt is made over the entire length of the floor supporting the wall and can be made of monolithic reinforced concrete or from three rows of solid bricks reinforced with masonry mesh. The width of the belt is 250 mm, and the thickness is at least 120 mm. Floor slabs must rest on the distribution belt of at least 120 mm. Together with floor slabs, it creates a rigid structure to increase resistance to wind loads, temperature and shrinkage deformations, as well as resistance to emergency impacts..

Rice. 1. Unit for supporting the floor slab on the wall
from cellular concrete gas silicate and foam concrete blocks.
1 - masonry; 2 - layer of thermal insulation; 3 - leveling layer cement-sand mortar; 4 - floor; 5 - floor slab; 6 - monolithic reinforced concrete belt; 7 - additional masonry blocks; 8 - prefabricated reinforced concrete lintel of the window opening; 9 - fiberglass corner; 10 - slope; 11-elastic gasket; 12 - window unit

In the second case: when the compressive load passes established standards or the width of the slab support on aerated concrete blocks more than 120 mm, the distribution belt need not be used. In this case, its role in giving the house a rigid structure is played by an armored belt in the form of a ring anchor along the outer perimeter of all laid floor slabs. Photo.№2 -5

Good afternoon.

It's very good that the foundation is intact. And 90% of our subscribers build houses themselves. Therefore, you have come to just the right place.

But I want to upset you, you can’t put slabs on blocks. I'll explain why. You will understand for yourself that these are completely different things: an armored belt and a masonry made of blocks or a lintel over a window. An armored belt can easily perform the function of a jumper over a window. This is how many people build now: they put an armored belt right above the window, then 2-3 rows of blocks with good density and a slab on top. You can lay slabs on nasosilicate only if the block density is 1600. But you won’t find such blocks. Even if your house were made of brick, you would still need armored belts, since they perform the function of uniformly distributing the load. And a brick or block takes a point load on each brick. Concrete and block masonry have different strength characteristics, and if you test them for compression, the block is very soft and fragile. IN reinforced belt the reinforcement lies tightly, clamped with concrete, and the strength and stability of the enclosing structure is determined by the reinforcement.

An armored belt is a well-reinforced concrete layer that is laid along all load-bearing walls, which must be closed and in no case interrupted. Designed to increase the strength of load-bearing walls and maintain the integrity of the structure during soil subsidence, temperature fluctuations, precipitation or soil shifts.

An armored belt is especially necessary when building a house from blocks (gas silicate, Varmit, aerated concrete, etc.), since these materials do not have good resistance to bending loads. The armored belt takes on the entire load arising from deformation of the structure, evenly distributing the load on the foundation and the rest of the masonry. The structure experiences severe vertical loads from the floor and roof slabs, which only the reinforced belt structure can cope with. Therefore, if you do not want the masonry to fall apart, you need to do it as expected.

For your building you will need 2 armored belts, under the floors between the 1st and 2nd floors and under the roof of the house along all load-bearing walls (we also take into account the internal ones).

Parameters of the armored belt: monolithic belt minimum height 20 cm, and width as thick as the block. It is advisable to immediately calculate the insulation for your region from 400 mm gas silicate, you can tell us about this and specialist Valeria will calculate whether just a block is enough or whether you need to insulate it from the outside.

Reinforcement of the reinforced belt: 4 rods of longitudinal reinforcement Ø12 mm, laid in 2 rows (2 rods in each row), connected by transverse reinforcement (clamps) Ø8 mm with a pitch of 30 cm. The distance of the reinforcement from the edge of the concrete is 5 cm. Scheme:

Are you going to clad or plaster your house?

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