DIY bathroom renovation step by step. Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation: sequence of work

In every home, one day the time finally comes when it is simply impossible to put off renovating the bathroom with your own hands any longer, because old tile and the wallpaper with which the walls were covered lost its attractive appearance or, even worse, gradually began to lag even from the surface, and all the pipes simply rusted to an impossible state.

The desire to make repairs becomes even stronger as more and more building materials appear on the shelves. various materials, capable of quickly and at an affordable cost turning even a small room into a Euro-class room that will be admired by all guests of the house.

If you are interested in instructions for renovating a bathroom, then the main point that you should understand from it is that the sequence of actions during repair must be followed. Then even mistakes made can be eliminated without problems without wasting more time and effort.

Difficulties in self-repair

Many builders say that the most difficult stage of repair is considered to be all those actions that will need to be done due to the characteristics of the room.

For this reason, it is especially important to approach the choice of materials that will be used in the future for finishing the ceiling and walls, since all materials used must be waterproof.

Also difficult are the works associated with the dismantling of equipment and various coatings. It is much easier to renovate a bathroom and toilet in a new building, since the room is usually no more than a couple of square meters.

Before you start making repairs yourself, be sure to understand the entire process in detail, since it will be necessary to take into account all the details of installing equipment and materials during the work.



Nuances of bathroom renovation

Firstly, in order to avoid the formation of fungus, in no case should you create cavities between the decorative and main surfaces. For the same reason, it is prohibited to decorate any walls with plasterboard, which is waterproof and plastic.

Secondly, in accordance with existing building codes, it is not recommended to install switches and sockets during renovation.

There are options on how to get around this limitation, but still, do not forget about high humidity levels, which create a fairly high risk of electric shock.



Thirdly, when renovating a bathroom, it is better not to use materials that are susceptible to rotting or are hygroscopic or corrosive.

Fourthly, when the area of ​​the room being renovated is quite small, it makes sense to install a modern shower cabin instead of a bathtub large sizes.

Ceramic tiles: nuances of use

A fairly important issue is the choice of ceramic tiles for the walls when you start renovating a bathroom in a Khrushchev-era building, since there are quite a lot of different criteria that need to be taken into account.

First of all, you should know that all tiles used today for finishing wall and floor surfaces are divided into different grades, which you can find out by carefully studying the packaging. The manufacturer is required to indicate it.

Taking into account international standards, today bright red is used to indicate the highest grade, bright blue for the second grade and, accordingly, green for the third grade.

If we look in detail at the highest grade of tiles, we can see a 5% deviation from the norm, which is considered acceptable today.

When purchasing the second grade, you can see approximately 1⁄4 of the tile with defects. Therefore, having decided to save cash, do not be surprised later that in almost every tile of the batch there will be one or another deviation from the standard that was established. Of course, photos of a bathroom renovation in the future are unlikely to become a model for other apartment owners who decide to update their bathroom.

When purchasing tiles, be sure to take at least a small supply. Since defects during installation are almost inevitable, a certain amount is required with full matching of the shade.



When choosing a floor covering, look for bathroom renovation ideas, you will probably be able to find some interesting options. One of the popular materials today is porcelain stoneware, as well as special tiles intended exclusively for floors. The materials are distinguished by good strength indicators, they have a slightly rough surface, which is especially important for the bathroom.

When purchasing several packs at once, do not forget to check the indicated batch number on each of the selected packages, and also check the size of the tile. If you notice that the difference is more than one millimeter, then it is better to take another package.

Buy all materials necessary for repairs with a reserve, since several percent of their total quantity will be written off for trimming and scrapping.

Doing a quick bathroom renovation yourself may not be as easy as it seems at first glance due to the small size of the room. However, if you make every effort, use high-quality materials and tools, everyone can cope with the task.



Bathroom renovation photo

In any type of room renovation, there is a certain sequence that allows you to break down all the work into separate stages, analyze each stage in detail, and accurately calculate the amount consumables and display the total amount of repairs. As in other rooms, it is necessary to follow the sequence of renovations in the bathroom, since violation of the algorithm of actions can lead to unexpected financial costs, and sometimes to repeated remodeling. Often, if the sequence of work is not followed, you may encounter damage to the finishing material from construction dust and dirt. In order for the work to be done quickly and efficiently, you need to divide the entire process into separate stages and study each in detail.

Sequence of repair work

The first question that inevitably arises for any novice master is where to start renovating a bathroom. In order to make the task easier, we will take the standard algorithm as a basis and analyze its sequence in detail. Step-by-step repair instructions will consist of the following points:

  • drawing up a project plan;
  • dismantling plumbing fixtures and old finishing materials;
  • surface preparation;
  • replacement of communication systems;
  • preliminary finishing of the premises;
  • finishing cladding;
  • installation of appliances and plumbing elements;
  • general cleaning of the premises.

The listed stages of work must be carried out in strict sequence, which is indicated in the list, otherwise there is a high probability of damage to the facing material.

Drafting

At the stage of creating a project, it is important to remember that the bathroom is considered quite complex from a technical point of view, since it contains a large number of different communications, and the bathroom renovation plan should be as detailed as possible, indicating all the main dimensions. In order to avoid any troubles as a result of the work, experts recommend drawing up a general plan of the room, and then on separate sheets of paper making detailed calculations for each surface separately, describing the stages of bathroom renovation. This instruction must contain a scale drawing of the floor, ceiling and each wall with exact dimensions, and it is also necessary to indicate in advance, down to the millimeter, the exact location of such elements as:

  • wash basin;
  • mirror;
  • electric hand dryer;
  • towel dryer;
  • lighting;
  • sockets and switches;
  • bath and toilet;
  • furniture and accessories;
  • washing machine, bidet, urinal, water filters and other plumbing items that require the installation of additional water supply and sewerage lines.

Also, the bathroom renovation plan must contain records of the power of all electrical appliances and the required cross-section of the electrical cable to support them.

Dismantling of plumbing fixtures and finishing materials

After drawing up a plan and a preliminary estimate, you can begin work. Bathroom renovations always begin with the dismantling of all plumbing elements. It is important to remember that you first need to remove the furniture from the room and all other bulky elements that will occupy the workspace. This will not only free up space, but will also help protect furniture and plumbing from damage when removing old tiles and preparing the room.

When carrying out a step-by-step bathroom renovation, it is important to remember that when dismantling the main task is not to quickly break it, but to carefully remove the old finish without causing major damage to the base, since you will need to repair all this damage later. As a result, the room should look like the photo above.

Also, the procedure for carrying out renovations in the bathroom at this stage involves gating the walls for laying electrical cables to consumers, drilling holes for sockets and switches.

Replacing old communications with new ones

In this area of ​​work, it is necessary to dismantle all old pipelines and electrical wiring. Next, the installation of new plumbing is carried out step by step, starting from the central water supply system to each consumer according to the plan. Then the bathroom renovation sequence involves installing a sewer line and laying electrical wires in pre-made grooves in the walls. At this stage of work, all additional units of the water supply system, such as filters and sedimentation tanks, are connected.

Many people mistakenly believe that they can disrupt the order of repairs in the bathroom and not replace the old metal pipes with plastic, but experts do not recommend leaving the old plumbing fixtures, since the pipes are sewn up under the lining and in case of a leak, you will have to disassemble everything again.

Preliminary finishing of the room

Following the sequence of work in the bathroom, after installing plumbing, sewerage and all additional elements, rough or preliminary finishing follows step by step. If you plan to use plasterboard to level the walls, then first you need to equip the floor surface, lay waterproofing and fill the screed. If the stages of renovation in the bathroom are designed to use putty or plaster to level the surface, then the floors are put aside last.

Waterproofing the room is achieved by treating the floor surface with epoxy resins or using thick polyethylene film before pouring the screed.

Further, the procedure for renovating a bathroom at this stage involves the construction of boxes to hide plumbing, the installation of plasterboard partitions and the construction of a frame for a suspended or suspended ceiling. Upon completion of the preliminary finishing, the premises are cleaned of construction debris.

Finish lining

The procedure for renovating a bathroom at the finishing stage involves installing the facing material that was chosen to decorate the room. Usually, the first step is to lay ceramic tiles on the walls, then lay out flooring and the last stages of work are devoted to installing tension or suspended ceiling. It is not for nothing that the procedure for renovating a bathroom leaves finishing the ceiling as an afterthought.

If the preparation of the bathroom for renovation was carried out correctly and the surface was leveled, then installation wall tiles usually starts from the top corner, this allows you to significantly save material and place all the pieces and remnants in the lower part of the room, where they are least noticeable. In order not to damage the suspended or suspended ceiling, it is put aside last. After finishing covering all surfaces, stage-by-stage repair The bathroom is moving to the stage of installing equipment and plumbing.

Installation of plumbing and electrical appliances

The final stage of renovation is considered the most interesting, since at this stage the room already takes on its normal appearance and gradually begins to please the owners. If the step-by-step renovation of the bathroom was followed, then now we have a fully finished room with plumbing, sewerage outlets and wires sticking out of the wall.

Now the toilet, bathtub, electrical devices, lighting elements, mirror and all additional fittings along with furniture. If the sequence of renovation in the bathroom has been followed, then upon completion of the installation of all elements and partial decoration, you can safely carry out general cleaning and enjoy a chic and cozy bathroom. Additional information you can get it by watching the video in the article.

After reading this material, you will have a complete step-by-step instruction bathroom renovation, compliance with which guarantees high-quality and quick completion of all assigned tasks.

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 5 minutes

The correct sequence of work is important for any repair, regardless of its complexity. Repairing a bathroom and toilet with your own hands requires especially careful adherence to the planned order, since if stages of work are not completed in a timely manner, you can ruin what has already been done. For example, you cannot finish the walls and floors and only then think about replacing wiring and pipes.

The specificity of bathroom renovation is, firstly, the small size of the room, and secondly, the large concentration of various devices and communications. Repairs in the bathroom and toilet are done less frequently than in residential premises, but usually more thoroughly. Experts recommend starting a major renovation with the bathroom, because this is often the dirtiest part of all work. That's why the most important stage One thing that should never be neglected is drawing up a detailed repair plan.

We draw up a bathroom renovation plan

The first thing to do at the planning stage:

  1. Decide on the design and style of the future bathroom and toilet, choose a color scheme. Traditionally, bathtubs are decorated in pastel colors; two shades will look most successful, for example, green and olive, beige and peach, blue and light blue.
  2. Decide what types of materials will be used in the finishing. Most often, tiles, plastic panels, porcelain tiles, and mosaics are used to decorate a bathroom.
  3. Inspect the plumbing and, if necessary, decide on replacement options. When purchasing new plumbing fixtures, be sure to ensure they fit correctly.
  4. Measure the parameters of the room (height, width, length) and calculate the area. Think over the location of plumbing fixtures and other necessary parts and draw detailed plan. You need to decide how and where the bath or shower, sink, toilet, mirror, heated towel rail, and washing machine will be located.

Tip: when planning, you need to take into account that after plastering the walls, the dimensions may change slightly. This needs to be taken into account when purchasing everything you need, and if you are not sure of the sizes, put this item aside until the rough finishing is ready.

The extent of DIY bathroom renovations depends on various factors: degree of wear of pipes and plumbing, obsolescence of finishing, desire to update the design of the room. Let's consider the sequence of actions during a major overhaul, which involves replacing electrical communications and water supply, plumbing fixtures and remodeling the premises.

Important! Before remodeling a bathroom, for example, demolishing a partition between a bathtub and a toilet, you need to obtain permission from the BTI.

An approximate work plan would be as follows:

  1. removal of plumbing fixtures and all interfering objects;
  2. dismantling old coverings, doors;
  3. demolition of partitions (if necessary);
  4. dismantling plumbing and electrical wiring;
  5. floor leveling;
  6. replacement of risers and pipes for water supply and sewerage;
  7. installation of electrical wiring;
  8. finishing of floors, walls and ceilings;
  9. installation of plumbing fixtures;
  10. installation of doors and electrical equipment.

Leveling the floor and walls

The floor in the bathroom should be smooth and level. You can do it this way in different ways.

  • “Self-leveling floor” is a self-leveling screed based on gypsum or cement. Sold as a dry mixture, suitable for DIY installation. The diluted solution is simply poured onto the floor and rolled with a needle roller.
  • The use of a gypsum-based plaster mixture and, additionally, a water-repellent mixture, especially for the bathroom. It is necessary to cover not only the floor, but also part of the walls located near the bathtub or shower stall with waterproofing material.
  • If necessary, after installing the waterproofing, a concrete screed is made. If it already exists, before finishing cladding You need to apply waterproofing mastic to it and use waterproof adhesive for the tiles.

The walls can be leveled using plaster or sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard. The latter material has a number of advantages over plastered walls.

  1. Firstly, drywall is excellent as a base for tiles.
  2. Secondly, when finishing gypsum board walls, the work of laying electrical wiring is greatly simplified, since the wires can be placed in the frame of the wall structure.

Water supply and sewerage

Old pipes must be removed down to the riser. Tap and sewer riser and it must also be replaced at this stage, since it will be difficult to do later. This work requires certain qualifications, so it is better to invite a specialist to carry it out.

It is quite possible to do the internal pipe routing yourself.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

  • the risers are given the required configuration;
  • Hidden pipe wiring is laid to water intake points;
  • a heated towel rail is installed in the bathroom;
  • filters are installed;
  • emergency water shut-off valves are installed;
  • if necessary, a water heating system is integrated.
  1. The hot water pipe must be located above the cold pipe.
  2. At large quantities water intake points will be more convenient collector system connection, which involves running a separate pipe to each point.
  3. The routes for sewer and water pipes are marked directly on the walls.
  4. It is customary to install a bathroom faucet 10 cm above the side of the bathtub, optimal distance between the pipes that go to the mixer - 15 cm.
  5. It is necessary to mark the location of the cold water pipe for the washing machine; the pipe outlet should be at a distance of 50 cm from the floor.
  6. Sewer pipes are located at an angle for drainage.
  7. The risers can be closed using a metal profile box and moisture-resistant plasterboard, which is then plastered.
  8. Don't forget about technical hatch on the box for access to meters and tap.

Electrical installation

To avoid damaging the final finish, electrical wiring is first installed. If you hide the wiring in metal pipes, then in the future to replace it you will not need to open the walls; you can simply pull out the wires.

Due to high humidity conditions, wiring must be installed strictly according to the following rules:

  • sockets and devices must be grounded;
  • switches, lamps, sockets and cables must be protected from moisture and elevated temperatures;
  • You can connect sockets and lighting systems only after complete completion repair.

Tip: if you are going to install a bathtub with a closing screen, you don’t have to lay tiles on the floor that will be hidden underneath it to save material.

  • After the floor, the walls are covered with the selected material.
  • At the end the ceiling is put in order.

There are many options for finishing the ceiling:

  1. coating with water-based paint;
  2. installation of a suspended or suspended ceiling;
  3. installation of plastic panels.

Plumbing installation

Toilet, sink, bidet, shower or bathtub, faucets are installed after complete completion finishing works. This will help not only avoid damage to the plumbing, but also ensure accessibility of all surfaces of the room.

Installation of electrical equipment, doors and accessories

After completing the installation of plumbing and a washing machine that requires a free doorway, you can install a door.

Now you can safely start installing sockets, switches and lamps. In addition, it’s time to take care of ventilation, which is best done by force by equipping the air duct with a fan.

How can you make your bathroom more comfortable?
First of all, we need to carefully analyze what we have.

The first is the area and volume of our bathroom. From this we can plan various improvements to our bathroom. We may have in mind a large shower or bathtub, a washing machine, etc.

But we must definitely keep in mind that our bathroom will be much more comfortable if it is spacious enough so as not to restrict our movements.

It is equally important to change the covering of the bathroom walls. Most often we have tiles there; thanks to modern technologies, the variety of colors and shapes of tiles is huge

From this huge number, we need to choose those tiles that, when covering the walls, will create a feeling of convenience and comfort for us. The color and shape of the tiles on the wall determine our feeling of comfort from being in the bathroom.

If we have a large bathroom, then when renovating the bathroom, we can fill it with various items for comfort and convenience. These could be: vases, flowers, cabinets and cabinets, stools and benches. The bathroom can become a convenient place to store linen and various household items.
Music or TV, safely installed in the bathroom, can create the necessary mood. Currently, a wide variety of audio and video equipment is produced that runs on 12 V, which is safe for us.

Many of us carelessly install 220V sockets in the bathroom, but in vain. If it is necessary to install such sockets, we need a qualified electrician who can competently protect our stay in the bathroom.

Doing your own bathroom renovation isn't cheap. As a rule, we are more concerned about saving money than about unnecessary spending.
The most effective way to transform our bathroom is to reorganize its space. How to change the bathroom layout.

A very important part of the comfort of the bathroom is cleanliness. Keeping our bathroom clean is one of the free, but... effective ways creating comfort.

The transformation and reorganization of our bathroom is very diverse

This could also be the installation of a water heater, an important device that allows you not to be upset by seeing an announcement on the entrance door about turning off hot water for almost a month. You need to take care when installing a water heater.

Turning off such habitual hot water creates great inconvenience in maintaining personal hygiene for all family members.

A water heater, in which water and 220V electricity work together, is a complex device. When deciding to install it, it is better to consult an electrician and plumber. These two specialists will jointly decide how to make the use of this device convenient and safe, and maintenance inexpensive and simple.

Another way we have transformed our bathroom is through lighting. Look at how stores highlight their products with lighting, we love it and it sets the mood. We can also use a similar method to change the atmosphere in the bathroom, taking into account our mood. Can be added to our bathroom and germicidal lamps very effective as additional helpers in cleanliness.

Screed installation

Screeding is done only on a clean, dry floor. It is necessary to remove all debris from the floor so that no grains of sand remain. After this, the floor is primed using a brush. Then the screed mixture is prepared.

First you need to determine the curvature of the floor. For this purpose it is used building level. If the floor is level, then a screed is not required. If the height difference per 1 m2 is no more than 1-2 cm, a cement-sand mortar is made. But if the curvature exceeds 2 cm, then you will need concrete mixture made of cement, crushed stone and sand.

The concrete mixture to eliminate large differences in heights is prepared from cement, crushed stone and sand in a ratio of 1:3.5:2.5 in a concrete mixer or thoroughly mixed by hand in a large container.

After preparing the solution, beacons are installed on the floor, along the top of which a horizontal line can be drawn. If you place a building level on top of the beacons, it should show a flat surface.

Then the prepared mixture is poured onto the floor in parts. It should reach the top of the beacons, but not completely. After an hour, the beacons are pulled out of the dried solution, which is why it is required that the solution does not completely cover their tops.

The resulting cracks from the beacons are filled with a solution. After this, the room is left to dry the floor. During drying, it is better to cover the floor surface with plastic film, which will prevent the concrete from cracking.

Tiling bathroom surfaces

Tiling bathroom surfaces is not an easy job. As we have already said, before cladding you need to prepare the surfaces - prime, level if necessary, etc.

When applying the leveling layer, there is no need to thoroughly rub in, but rough cleaning is necessary to get rid of all protruding roughness. The glue can be mixed by hand or using a drill with an attachment. Apply glue to the surface of the floor or wall using a comb spatula. After applying the glue, press the tile to the surface and tap it with your fist or rubber hammer. To maintain identical seams between the tiles, special templates that look like “U”-shaped brackets or plastic crosses are inserted. After the glue has set (usually a day after facing), the templates are removed.

The seams are rubbed with a special compound selected according to tone and color. Let's take a closer look at this point. The thing is that it is almost impossible to choose a grout that perfectly matches the tone (and even more so the color) with the tiles. And grout that is similar in color and tone sometimes looks completely tasteless. Therefore, the tone and color must be selected so that they not only match, but also stand out in comparison with the tiles. Typically, the joints are made somewhat lighter than the tiles and in cooler colors. You need to grout the seams after the glue has completely dried, but not earlier than a couple of days, especially when using light-colored grout. Excess grout must be removed with a dry cloth immediately after it “sets.” To get even seams, go over the fresh seams with a piece of silicone or vinyl insulated round cable. The diameter of the cable should be approximately twice the width of the seam, then the seams will be smooth and evenly pressed along the entire length.

Well, you have done your own bathroom renovation. Having spent a lot of time, you saved some money, gained skills that will be useful to you more than once, and most importantly, you made the repairs the way you yourself wanted. All that remains is to attach lamps, mirrors, install plumbing fixtures, and place furniture.

You can learn how to do all this, how to install shower cabins, hydromassage bathtubs, siphons, faucets, bath screens, as well as how to work with wood, plastic, ceramics, paint, glass and many other useful and interesting things by reading my blog Man in Dome.Ru. Subscribe and come again and again so as not to miss anything interesting!

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Choice of finishes

The next stage of bathroom renovation is the choice of finishing materials. The most common option is tiles on the walls and floors. This finishing method is popular because it is durable and easy to maintain. But the cost of such finishing is high. There are cheaper options, but no less interesting. For example, you can lay it on the floor cork covering or PVC tiles. The walls can be painted, covered with special wallpaper, and decorative plaster applied to them.

There are no fewer options for decorating the ceiling. Standard method finishing - bleached or painted ceiling. But recently, suspended or tensioned systems have become more popular. They allow you to hide communications, although they take away a few centimeters of height. Bathroom ceilings can be:

  • tension;
  • from plasterboard;
  • rack (made of aluminum slats);
  • from PVC panels.

Depending on the type of ceiling, the sequence of repairs in the bathroom changes. When choosing a stretch ceiling, it is done last. After all other finishing work is completed, the doors are installed. A plasterboard ceiling, as well as a bleached or painted plastered ceiling, is finished simultaneously with the walls or a little earlier - so that the whitewash or paint does not get on the walls. Suspension systems(except for drywall) are collected after finishing the walls.

Drawing up a plan and procedure

Once you have decided on all these issues, have chosen plumbing and finishing materials, begin to draw up a plan. After all the old finishing has been removed, the dimensions of the room are measured to the nearest centimeter and the dimensions are transferred to the plan. On this plan, all communications are drawn, the distances to all their exit points are indicated, and plumbing fixtures and furniture are drawn to scale. After all, the location of the water supply and sewerage outlets depends on the position of the plumbing and its size. The following is the work plan:

  • Dismantling of equipment: bathtub, washbasin, electrical appliances.
  • Removal old decoration from the walls, floor, ceiling.

  • Replacement of water supply and sewerage systems, installation of new shut-off valves. When replacing the water supply, if necessary, you can install filters on the sewerage system in apartments to prevent the occurrence of unpleasant odor sewer check valves are often installed.
  • Electrical wiring. The wires are mounted in the walls, grooves are made under them, into which corrugated hoses or plastic cable channels are laid.
  • Wall decoration. Here, the sequence of renovations in the bathroom depends on the type of finish chosen and the original condition of the walls. For tiles, the walls need to be leveled with plaster; for painting and wallpaper, it is still necessary final leveling using putty. When laying tiles, they are laid starting from the bottom, but not from the first, but from the second row. The first row from the floor is laid later, after the floor is made.
  • Ceiling and lighting installation. In most cases, built-in lamps are used; for the bathroom they must be in a special sealed housing.
  • Floor finishing. If there big differences height, before finishing work begins (after laying the electrical wiring), a leveling screed is poured. While all other work is going on, the concrete is gaining strength. At this stage, the selected finishing material is laid on a pre-leveled base. Afterwards the first row of tiles is laid (with trimming as necessary).

  • Installation of washbasin, bathtub, and other plumbing fixtures.
  • Installation of furniture.

This step by step plan bathroom renovation. There is only one nuance: when to install the doors. Usually door frame installed after the walls are prepared for finishing. In this case, the wall decoration will fit close to the box

This is important if platbands are not provided from the inside. The door leaf can be hung later - after finishing all the “dirty” work or immediately, but protect it with thick plastic film

Otherwise, it is advisable to follow the sequence of renovations in the bathroom without changes.

Leveling surfaces

Smooth surfaces will ensure an excellent finish for the room as a whole.

Don't know where to start renovating your bathroom? It is important to properly level the surfaces before covering them. Many people say that they do not need to be leveled, since this can be done during the process of laying the tiles using glue.

But this is the wrong decision.

A significant layer of glue can cause it to “float”. Because of this, the reliability of adhesion of the tiles to the surfaces of the floor and walls decreases. In addition, you will have to provide a fairly large budget for the purchase of adhesive composition.

Leveling the walls in the bathroom

Leveling surfaces will be cheaper if you use plasterboard sheets or plaster mixture. In this case, you will not need to buy a lot of glue to install ceramic tiles on the surface of the floor and ceiling. And proper alignment leads to the fact that the tiles are glued evenly on all areas of the plane.

How to make your bathroom renovation modern

Color matching is very important

The times when premises were renovated with the materials that could be obtained are long gone. Now the construction market offers a wide range of modern and beautiful cladding coatings, plumbing fixtures and all kinds of accessories.

You will have every opportunity to make your bathroom convenient, comfortable and with a competent bathroom interior.

Don’t think that because the room is small, you won’t be able to make it modern and beautiful.

You just need to choose the right colors and shades in the room, thereby visually expanding it.

  1. To make the ceiling in the bathroom appear higher, use more bright hues than on the walls. If they are already light, then the ceiling should be white.
  2. When planning a modern bathroom renovation, don't be afraid of rich colors. A cool dark color will add richness and depth to the space. As a result, you can use materials of all blue shades or dark blue tones for tiling the bathroom.
  3. If you want to make the room “warm”, choose pastel colors, and to create bright spots, use accessories. This design technique will give a feeling of depth to the space.
  4. You should not use saturated red or brown tones. They will visually shorten the room.
  5. Large designs and shiny accessories are too overwhelming room interior. But transparent materials and light decorative items create its airiness.
  6. When using mosaics or tiles, refrain from purchasing a bright set. In the bathroom you relax and unwind. Bright walls they won't let you do this.
  7. It is worth remembering that large ceramic tiles always visually reduce the space. Therefore, if your bathroom very small, choose tiles, no more than 30x20 cm.
  8. Large mirrors add elegance to the room and expand the volume of the room.

Room decoration

Finishing in the case of cosmetic and major repairs can differ greatly. The instructions for tiling are as follows.

Laying the tiles begins from the top edge of the bathtub. Since the surface of the side is not very smooth, it is usually impossible to maintain the same width of the seam along the entire border with the bathroom. The tiles have to be cut very evenly or the seam must be covered with a corner or plinth.

Cutouts are made in places where communications are supplied. The socket boxes are placed so as not to hit the joint. At external corners, tiles are cut at an angle of 45°. Fitting and laying the bottom row of wall tiles is carried out only after tiling the floor.

When laying, they try to remove the cut tiles from view and hide them in corners, under the bathtub or boxes. For precise fitting, manufacturers offer borders, friezes, and inserts, but they are much more expensive. A more affordable option is to use scraps of tiles of a different color.

After installation is completed, the seams are filled with grout based on epoxy resin, excess fugue is removed immediately. Once frozen, the puffer is more difficult to clean and can scratch the surface.

Installation of PVC panels is simpler than working with tiles and takes much less time. PVC panels are mounted on guides made of wooden slats, metal or plastic profiles hidden fastenings- clampers. The wood is pre-treated with antiseptics.

The cut ends are hidden at the top and bottom with starting strips. External and internal corners are installed in the corners

Particular attention is paid to the vertical evenness, especially of the first plank, and the alignment of the pattern. The finishing process is completed by installing a stretch or suspended ceiling

Laying new pipes and electrical wiring

They start cutting walls for pipes and electrical wiring, thoroughly equipped with respiratory, vision and hearing protection. In the lower part of the wall, where the pipes run in a single bundle, communications are usually put away in a box. There is no need to hide pipes in grooves if they are covered from above with a bathtub or shower tray.

To prevent corrosion, metal water risers are painted and packaged in thermal insulation material to protect them from condensation and extend their service life. The sewer riser is being replaced with the help of the management company. To prevent the noise of water drained by neighbors from disturbing the apartment, the sewer riser is lined with sound insulation.

Before wiring, a frame installation system is installed in the plumbing closet for hidden installation of the toilet cistern, which saves some space. After connecting the hot and cold water supply pipes to the collector with the installation of meters and sensors, the strength and tightness of the connections are checked - pressure testing. This mandatory procedure during major repairs.

Electrical wiring is supplied to the locations of electrical installation products and equipment. For electrical safety, the wires are hidden in corrugation and a grounding loop is made. To ensure that electrical wiring is done correctly, the work must be carried out by an experienced person.

After laying the communications, the grooves are sealed and the walls of the plumbing cabinet with a hidden inspection hatch are erected. Depending on where it is more convenient to open, forward or sideways, choose one of two hatch design options - sliding or hinged. For the period before the installation of new plumbing they install old toilet.

DIY bathroom decor

Everything should be in one color scheme, which goes well with the color schemes used in the bathroom renovation

At budget renovation Apartment owners will have to use some tricks to liven up the look of their renovated bathroom. You can do this using:

  • a stylish curtain near the bathroom;
  • creative wall stickers;
  • unusual shelves and hangers with new towels.

Things from your home pantry will also help change the look of the room. For example, a mirror in a carved frame, together with something already familiar and rather boring, will create a completely different atmosphere and emphasize the individuality of the owner of the apartment. Other old things will also fit interestingly into the interior. For example, an antique suitcase can be turned into a vintage-style wall cabinet, and an old sewing machine can become a stand under the sink. An old bicycle can perform the same function (provided, of course, there is enough space in the bathroom).

Useful for DIY decoration:

  • a staircase painted white, which can turn into an original wall-towel rack;
  • a pile of old newspapers - you can use them to make paper tubes, which in turn will become material for weaving a laundry basket;
  • seashells brought from trips - to decorate the mirror frame;
  • a basket standing idle in the closet that can be beautifully placed on a shelf and stored in it for a spa set;
  • a bouquet of dried flowers - it will decorate any bathroom, the main thing is that it matches harmoniously with the tiles.

You can decorate your bathroom relatively inexpensively using cute little things:

  • in a “marine” style (using pebbles and shells; stickers with the appropriate theme);
  • in country style (add wooden shelves to the interior, wicker basket for furniture and textiles on the floor).

All these are details that radically change the appearance of a familiar place. Moreover, in some cases they can even... replace the renovation itself, because thanks to them the space will change and become better.

It is quite possible to save money when renovating a bathroom. The main thing is to follow a few simple rules: use high-quality materials, strictly follow the work technology and do not start a global redevelopment (in any case, it will cost a very decent amount). It’s also worth doing as much of the work yourself as possible, so as not to pay builders for work about the same as for building materials in a store.

Processes outright

Despite its bright name, this period may turn out to be the darkest. This is because when it is carried out, it is most often necessary to eliminate deficiencies that may have appeared during the period of initial operation. So, you may need:

Re-filling the floor and laying a new covering.

Finishing the floor

  • Replacement of doorways, window frames and window sills.
  • Leveling walls, laying tiles.
  • Replacement of plumbing and pipes.


That's why this type The alterations will not be cosmetic at all, but major ones. That is why for this stage it should be allocated lion's share budget.

Sometimes windows need to be replaced due to building shrinkage.

Laying tiles

The finishing step will be immediately followed by finishing, and at this stage you can give free rein to your imagination and realize all the most interesting ideas, since there are no longer any restrictions on the quality of the finishing building materials used, and upon completion you can use absolutely any decor and furniture. The reason for this is simple: now nothing needs to be moved from place to place or dismantled during the period of change. So it is after this stage that you can safely raise the piano and oak furniture to the upper floor.

Finishing will transform your interior

Interior of a studio apartment in a modern style

Where to begin

Any work in the bathroom begins with determining the location: sink, bathtub, shower, furniture.

To do this, the locations of all objects are drawn on a sheet of paper. The future furnishings of the room depend not only on your own desires, but also on the convenience of laying pipes. It is necessary to place all items in such a way that it is convenient to pull pipes for supplying and draining water to them.

After this, the required materials are calculated. And to do this you need to know the size of the room. It is necessary to accurately measure the height and width of the walls, the dimensions of the ceiling and floor. After this, calculate how many tiles will be needed for the walls and floor. You also need to consider whether you need to lay tiles behind the bathtub. If not, then this area must be subtracted from the calculated one. But don’t forget about the small supply of materials (about 10%) that will be used for cutting. If you decide to lay tiles, read the articles Preparing walls for tiles and How to lay tiles.

Let's start renovating the bathroom with our own hands - the first steps

The room in which we take water procedures is considered very specific. Serious humidity and temperature changes are constantly present here, and water flows in large volumes. It is clear that to renovate such a room it is necessary to select special materials that can withstand all negative impacts. To decorate the room we are interested in, we usually choose:

  • plastic panels;
  • porcelain stoneware;
  • tiles (for finishing walls and floors).

These materials have the required qualities that allow them to be used in rooms where there is steam and high temperature.

Bathroom finishing plastic panels

In addition, the bathroom should have a special atmosphere that promotes relaxation. This means that you need to carefully think through the design of this room and choose the right color scheme. Most often, bathrooms are designed in pastel colors, which do not irritate a person, but, on the contrary, calm his nervous system after a busy day. Professional designers recommend finishing bathroom units with products in beige, blue, peach, and blue shades.

Now you need to decide on the scope of work and make a plan for completing it. Subsequence self-repair The bathroom is usually like this:

  1. Preparing the room for renovations.
  2. Analysis of the condition of the existing floor covering and the choice of technology for its restoration or complete replacement.
  3. Floor repair, insulation and waterproofing.
  4. Installation of sewer and water pipes.
  5. Laying electrical wiring.
  6. Plastering ceiling and wall surfaces, covering them with the selected material and insulating them.
  7. Installation efficient ventilation system.
  8. Installation of sanitary equipment.

The given sequence will allow you to spend a minimum of time giving the room for water treatments an ideal look.

Determining the type of repair

Bathroom renovations can be:

Unplanned. The need for spontaneous repairs may arise if an unforeseen situation arises (a pipe burst or your neighbors flooded you). If you decide to replace the bathtub, this may also entail sudden repairs (changing sewer pipes, installing other plumbing fixtures, updating tiles, etc.);

Planned repairs. According to complexity and material costs planned repairs can be major or cosmetic. Of course, cosmetic repairs are cheaper, but such work can only be carried out if there is no fungus and the plumbing and plumbing are in good working order. Such repairs involve replacing wall and ceiling coverings, updating floors and faucets. And more serious repairs, even if not completely major ones, require thorough preparation and a serious approach.

This is interesting: How to choose curtains for the bedroom and create harmony of style and comfort: we explain carefully

Rules for choosing inexpensive but high-quality plumbing fixtures

One of the secrets to saving money when renovating a bathroom is to carefully plan all expenses in advance.

It is important to remember this when making an estimate for plumbing before going shopping. It would be a good idea to study the price range in advance by spending a couple of hours on the Internet.

Savings for each item can range from 1 thousand to 3 thousand rubles. You can also win significantly when purchasing a promotional product or when purchasing a product for which a plumbing supply delivery service from the store to your home is provided as a gift.

Acrylic bathtubs retain heat well, and water poured into such a bathtub remains warm much longer

As for the bathroom, the most budget option here is acrylic. This material is cheaper than cast iron, but it has its significant advantages:

fairly simple installation;
easy care;
safety in use (which is very important if the family has small children or elderly people who have a high risk of injury when falling on a cast iron surface).

You can also save money due to the size of the bathroom. The smaller it is, the cheaper it is. Another option is not to change your home bathroom at all. A - resort to procedures for its “rejuvenation” through restoration with acrylic. As a result, it will look like new, and you can do the work yourself, without involving specialists.

When choosing a sink, you should take a closer look at the models domestic production. Russian products are cheaper, but at the same time no worse than their famous foreign analogues.

In addition to Russian sinks, washbasins from Poland, Slovenia and Bulgaria provide a good price-quality ratio.

In addition, you should not discount sellers who work on the “from warehouse” principle - that is, at more affordable, essentially “discount” prices: you can select the desired model from their website on the Internet, after which the seller himself will promptly deliver it to the buyer's home. Payment is made only after acceptance of the goods, which eliminates the possibility of fraud.

In addition, there is another method, which, however, is not suitable for everyone. And some will generally consider it wild, although for lovers of life hacks it’s probably worth bringing it up: it has long been noticed that near garbage cans near new buildings you can often find completely new plumbing fixtures without any flaws. Apartment owners in recently completed buildings decide to replace it not because it is bad, but because they want a completely different sink or bathtub. As a result, the plumbing solutions from the developer are sent to the landfill, although they could well serve - at least for several years.

A separate conversation concerns pipes and mixers. It’s also not worth saving on them in any case. At the slightest hint of rust, it is better to replace the pipes. Installing new plastic ones will be an inexpensive option, which will also reduce costs. But what again cannot be saved are valves and valves. You need to select and install only the highest quality ones, even if they are more expensive.

How to save money on wall decoration

Painting walls can be considered a budget finishing option, but smooth and prepared walls are required

One of the main rules for inexpensive bathroom renovations is not to try to save on materials and services by inviting unskilled workers who will do everything cheaper, but worse.

First of all, this concerns wall decoration. There is no way to reduce consumables at any cost and use cheaper materials. They will not last long and, at least, in a couple of years you will have to think about starting a new renovation.

There are five options regarding inexpensive finishing walls This:

  • painting (oil and acrylic paint are suitable for rooms with high humidity);
  • the use of PVC wall panels (or lining - a cheap, moisture-resistant and easy-to-use material, which, by the way, will help hide existing wall defects);
  • pasting with film (it is also not afraid of moisture, adheres well to a flat surface and allows you to experiment with colors);
  • decoration with a sheet mirror (it adjusts the space, allows you to save on the purchase of a mirror and is easy to install);
  • finishing with inexpensive tiles.

The last option is the most preferable. The tiles should last for several years. At the same time she:

  • practical (withstands temperature changes and is not afraid of water);
  • looks good on the wall;
  • easy to clean (can be cleaned using powerful detergents);
  • has a number of advantages over other options (when laying tiles, the area of ​​the room is not reduced as when using PVC panels, for example).

How to save money on walls? Several ideas:

  • buy inexpensive domestic tiles;
  • do not cover the entire wall from floor to ceiling, but only the apron in the area of ​​the bathroom and sink (the rest can be painted or covered with special moisture-resistant wallpaper);
  • decorate part of the wall with more expensive tiles, and part with simpler tiles, turning this into a kind of design solution;
  • replace not all of the old tiles, but only part of it;
  • level the walls using moisture-resistant plasterboard rather than using mixtures (this will be cheaper and require less time).

From the correct choice of tile adhesive with the necessary characteristics ease of use and durability of the finish depend

You can save money when choosing tile adhesive. So, of the two common in Russian stores building materials of the brands “Ceresit” and “Moment”, you can purchase the less expensive “Moment”, because its qualities correspond to the required range of hardness. In addition, it is produced by the same manufacturer as Ceresit - Henkel. And she is responsible for quality.

In general, you can really save on building materials if you start purchasing them in advance, rather than purchasing everything at the very last moment. So, you can save the contents of your wallet when purchasing in a store belonging to a large retail chain:

  • goods in the last copy (sellers often make discounts on them);
  • tiles from the remnants of the collection (you can also buy them for half the price, and sometimes even cheaper);
  • building materials, for which special discounts apply for a certain period.

Are you thinking about renovating your bathroom yourself? This is not surprising, since carrying out the entire repair process yourself will be much cheaper. On average, the possible fee is calculated from half the cost of all necessary materials.

But, of course, you should not think that everything will be simple: you will need to calculate all possible costs, have knowledge and sufficiently high skills, if not in carrying out repairs, then at least in handling tools. If you do not have the above, then it would be better for you to turn to specialists. Think and weigh your decision carefully. Read this article about renovating a bathroom with your own hands, including photos, and then finally make your decision. In it we will dwell in some detail on the production of actions in their chronological order, indicating the materials and the approximate cost of the necessary materials.

To renovate your bathroom yourself, you will need the following:

  • Choose plumbing fixtures, decide on their quantity and nomenclature;
  • Develop a bathroom design and choose the colors you need:
  • Calculate and purchase the necessary finishing materials;
  • Prepare the room where repairs will be carried out;
  • Assess the current condition of the bathroom floor. Decide on the method of repairing it and purchase materials for the work;
  • Repair the floor. This item will include:
  • its waterproofing - that is, measures to make the floor waterproof.
  • replacing the screed, a layer is raised under the screed, created to level the floor, and on which the floor covering is usually installed.
  • floor insulation;
  • Pipeline laying;
  • Working with electrical wiring;
  • Plastering the ceiling and walls;
  • Wall cladding, grouting and corner sealing work;
  • Flooring;
  • Installation of ventilation system.
  • Installation of your chosen plumbing fixtures.

The time you will spend on renovating the bathroom with your own hands starts from 2 weeks, in case of replacing the bathroom and toilet. It will take at least 2 months to replace the floor screed. Let's go directly through the points of the specified plan:

Selection of plumbing fixtures

It's difficult to talk about here specific advice, since everything will depend on your choice of brand and manufacturer. Let us just mention that when renovating, you should think about what to do with the old bathroom. If it is intact, then below, when considering the issue of preparing the premises, ways to improve it will be indicated.

Project stage

This stage is directly related to the choice of plumbing fixtures, since it will affect the complexity and cost of the repair itself. Thus, the characteristics of the tiled wall covering depend on the shape of the washbasin. It will be impossible to provide all the details; this is a topic for a separate article. Keep in mind that when building a house, bathtubs are decorated with the same materials from the same supplier, so the cost of repairs can reach up to 1/5 of the cost of housing. IN an ordinary house It makes no sense to think about a faucet built into the wall, since such a possibility is laid down during construction, and breaking the wall is an unacceptable option.

Do not use common industrial wood or plain steel parts. Such materials absorb moisture or are prone to corrosion, so using them in places with high humidity does not justify itself. For the same reasons, installing sockets and switches in the bathroom is life-threatening. Of course, there are ways to make them, meeting a number of formal requirements, but we will not consider them here. If your apartment has limited space, consider installing a walk-in shower. This will help free up some space in which you can install something more necessary. Think about it and choose a design that you like.

Estimate

It makes no sense to explain why it is necessary to evaluate the equipment needed for repair. Remember that it is wrong to be guided by a lower price when choosing materials for a bathroom renovation with your own hands. There are a number of parameters that are of significant importance, but which are quite difficult to understand without special knowledge. These are the coefficients of moisture absorption, thermal expansion and porosity of the material. Since the bathroom is a place with a wide range of temperatures and high humidity, which affects both the strength of the materials and the sanitary and hygienic situation in the home, it would be wrong to proceed from the principle of cheapness.

You most likely will not find some parameters in the material description, so you should select materials directly intended for use in the bathroom. Materials used for outdoor construction may also be suitable, since the conditions of interest to us are similar.

  • The price for tiles will be from 40 to 60 rubles per piece, depending on the country of origin. On average, the quality of tiles from domestic and European manufacturers does not differ from each other, but European samples usually have a better design. The situation is the same for floor and wall tiles, the only difference is in size. Porcelain tiles will cost more, from 50 rubles per piece, however, it is recommended to use them for flooring. Unlike usual ceramic tiles They have a non-slip surface and great strength. Considering the rather high traumatic rate of bathrooms in medical statistics, this is an important circumstance. In the store you should pay attention to the condition of the tile surface. The presence of damage on it will lead to the appearance of dirt that cannot be cleaned. To ensure the integrity of the tile you choose, hold it against your face and look at it along the light source. Another factor is the size ratio. If the tiles are different sizes, and this is quite possible, then during installation, the surface will look repulsive, and even if it is not installed, you will have to waste time returning the goods to the seller. To check, take several pairs and place the edges next to each other and take a closer look. The difference in size should not exceed a millimeter. Then test the edges, they should be smooth.
  • Tile adhesive. Considering that the work of installing the tiles will be carried out by you yourself, the best choice would be slow-drying glue, from half a day to a day. This will allow you to correct all possible mistakes made and give you the opportunity to work for your own pleasure. The spatula should be selected specifically for the glue, such information is contained on the packaging. If for some reason the packaging does not contain information about the pitch and depth of the teeth, and the glue itself has proven itself well, then choose a shallow depth of 3 to 6 millimeters. Using a trowel with large teeth will likely cause cavities to appear under the tiles.
  • Templates for laying tiles. It is best to use plastic crosses because they are easier to work with.
  • Grout for tiles. It is not necessary to purchase, since a piece of cable 5-6 millimeters in diameter may be suitable for grouting joints.
  • Glass-magnesite sheet from 250 rubles per 1 sheet.
  • Laminate from 300 rubles per board.
  • Self-leveling floor. For a bathroom, it is preferable to use two components, this is an initial viscous pour, then a liquid one for leveling. The approximate price is from 220 rubles per 10 liters, the same with the insulation effect - from 640 rubles per square meter.
  • Teak or larch floor. If you decide to have a wood floor rather than a tile floor. It will cost more, but it looks and feels nicer. Price from 500 rubles per square meter.
  • Pipes. The best option is polypropylene pipes: for cold water(PPN) from 24 rubles per square meter, for hot (PPR) from 35 rubles. The choice is due to the fact that working with steel pipes is difficult; metal-plastic tends to leak in fittings over time, while polypropylene can be welded and hidden in the wall. Sewer pipes start from 45 rubles. We will also include fittings in this category. Fittings made from solid plastic are most preferred, as this will avoid possible leaks. Switching to metal makes sense when connecting pipes to a boiler. The shut-off valves must be spherical and soldered into plastic. The cost of fittings and fittings will be 60% of the price of pipes. Please measure when purchasing outside diameter pipes with a caliper. To work with pipes you need diamond drills, if the sizes do not match, you will have to buy more, and such drills are quite expensive.
  • PVA emulsion - from 240 rubles per 5-liter package.
  • Plumbing. It all depends only on your choice, let’s just say don’t skimp on quality - plumbing fixtures should serve for a long time and conscientiously. When considering options for a heated towel rail, it is recommended to take a heated towel rail from of stainless steel. Other options are either of unsuitable quality or overpriced. When choosing a faucet, consider purchasing one with an infrared sensor that automatically turns on the water when you raise your hands to a preset temperature setting. You've probably seen this at airports. The mixer, of course, is not the cheapest, but it will allow you to reduce your water costs by half and heating energy costs by 40-45%.

Prices are approximate and based on current market value. Nevertheless, you will be able to somehow navigate these prices and, taking into account the area, calculate the renovation of the bathroom with your own hands. You will not need everything listed directly when performing the work; some of the presented options are alternatives; their choice will be discussed in more detail below.

Let us repeat once again: you should not be guided by cheapness when choosing materials; their use will only complicate the work. When purchasing materials, take into account possible defects and errors in calculations: there is almost always a need for some reserve. So, with tiles it is recommended to have 3-5% of the excess amount. When renovating a small bathroom, you will do a little more - 5-7%. For other materials add 35-40%.

Now let's get down to work.

So, as already mentioned: first of all, the question is in the old bathroom. A cast iron bathtub can be updated using an acrylic or epoxy compound. Installation new bath made of cast iron will not provide any advantage in quality and service life, and dismantling it and installing a new bathtub is quite labor-intensive. For a tin bath, in the absence of chipped enamel or other serious damage, you can use acrylic liner. If the tin bathtub is in poor condition, do not hesitate and choose a new one. To renovate your bathroom, you don't need any special skills. The difference between acrylic and epoxy is price and labor intensity; the latter is cheaper, but somewhat more difficult to work with. It is impossible to create an insert yourself - it is manufactured at the factory, where you will have to order it, but the installation technology is as follows:

  • thoroughly clean and degrease the bathtub;
  • insert the liner and check that the drain holes are aligned correctly;
  • double check and apply glue to the inside of the tub.

The method is quite expensive, but still cheaper than a new bath.

Turn off the water. Disconnect the cold water line from the flush tank. If you are not going to move out during the renovation, then it makes sense to supply water to the kitchen through a temporary pipeline. Even using an ordinary hose will do, just remember to turn off the water when you are away or at night. The quality, as you understand, of such a system is far from ideal. But otherwise, you will have to go without water for about 10 days, which is an even worse prospect.

Start dismantling everything in the bathroom. Only the walls should remain. Sewage system At this stage, do not touch it yet, plug the heating for the heated towel rail with screw plugs. Next, turn off the power to the bathroom.

Now you can start cleaning the bathroom surfaces. This part of the work is associated with garbage and dust, work with glasses, a respirator and, if you don’t want to clean the whole apartment later, with closed door or film in the opening.

The work starts from the ceiling. For old tiles, use a hammer drill with a concrete chisel. If cement mortar was used to secure it, you will have to remove it completely. Be careful when working on the floor! If your old screed is in good condition, then a hammer drill when removing the cement backing can damage it, and this is unnecessary trouble for you. If there are reasons to preserve the old screed, then use a grinder with a diamond cup. The work will be done more accurately and will reduce the cost of major floor repairs.

For the top layer of plaster and old paint use a drill with an 80-100 mm round wire brush. In old houses, the plaster is often weak and must be removed down to the base, be it brick or concrete. It is enough to level a solid one with a drill using a cleaning brush and measuring the level. When working with plaster over electrical wiring in the bathroom, you need a hammer drill with a chisel. Remove the wires. Just in case, tap the walls and try to drill them: in a number of houses of the Brezhnev era, gypsum fiber boards were used for insulation. If you find something like this, you will have to dismantle them. There will be more work, but their replacement is necessary. Be careful when working with the ceiling, it may even collapse. Take care of the supports.

The cleaning is complete and the old tiles have been removed. Time to clean the floors. After wet cleaning you can begin to inspect the installed screed. The presence of even one crack will lead to the need to replace it, which means a major overhaul of the bathroom floor. Of course, if the damage is minor, then this can be avoided by using a layer of self-leveling floor. But more on that later. First of all, let's consider the need to remove the old screed and begin waterproofing the floor.

In order to waterproof the floor, there are few options: this is aquaizol or its polyester analogue. Conventional film for the bathroom is not applicable, moisture will seep in one way or another, but aquaizol will retain water at any temperature. The insulation should extend at least a quarter of a meter (25 cm) onto the wall, based on its weight. 4000 liters of water per 10 square meters is the maximum strength of the ceiling. The folds at the corners should not have cuts. The joints of the waterproofing layer are glued together with mastic or welded using an industrial hair dryer. Practice before doing this kind of welding, it’s not easy.

Having finished with the insulation, proceed to installing a new screed. When assessing possible costs, it was already mentioned required material. This is a glass magnesite plate. Its strength will allow you to lay reinforcement mesh and install beacons without delay. There are no alternatives, foam concrete and foam concrete are too fragile, and expanded clay absorbs water. This is an extremely long stage; the new screed must stand for 40 days before you can continue work. Screeds have special requirements for cement mortar:

  • grade of cement from 400; the sand must be quartz;
  • sand and cement relate to each other in a ratio of 4:1;
  • the volume of water must be equal to the volume of cement;
  • You need to add PVA emulsion to the water in the amount of 1/10 of the volume of water.

The formation of the screed is carried out along the markers in a layer of 4-5 cm. Having leveled the formed surface, bring it to smoothness. A tile floor requires a level base surface for its flooring.

Let's move on to replacing the pipeline. You should start with the sewer pipes, since the seals with sealant will assemble it quite quickly, one day will be enough. To the sewer pipes welded joints are not done. After this, you can begin soldering the water pipes with peace of mind.

How to lay them? It’s not worth doing it in the open form, it will bring aesthetic pleasure to few people, making grooves, if you are not familiar with the concept, is a groove in the wall, laid to be able to remove the pipe, a tedious and time-consuming task, and in the case of block houses, fittings cannot be used violate, and she herself will not allow the ditch to be made. Nevertheless, there is a solution: the pipes can be run parallel to the floor, and then a galvanized slope can be made on them. Next, using silicone, glue the facing tiles to the completed slope in a color that matches the future appearance of the bathroom.

The slope is also glued with silicone to the floor and ceiling, and can be done after the work is completed. If necessary, the silicone can be cut with a mounting knife. With a standard bathroom layout, the length of the slope will be approximately a meter. You still can’t do without grooves, but this is only for vertically installed pipes: for a faucet in the bathroom, if there is one in your bathroom, for a faucet in the washbasin, and there may be a couple more if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The pipes in the grooves should be foamed, this will serve as additional protection against fogging and heat loss. Installation process polypropylene pipes very simple, the main advantage is that within thirty minutes from the completion of welding the last connection, your piping system can be used. uh

Remember, butt joints between pipes are not allowed. Use fittings and couplings to connect them.

To weld joints you will need: a machine for socket welding of polypropylene pipes; nozzles for the pipes used; pipe cutter; Shaver, chamfer. Metal-plastic is well suited for a heated towel rail. Thanks to its flexibility, the lower fittings will be hidden under the slope, and the position of the upper ones will not change.

It should be laid with a corrugated wire in double insulation. The most commonly used is plastic, its price is low, however, if you are planning to replace the wiring throughout the house, use metal, the wiring will be shielded.

Before starting plastering work, glue the protruding waterproofing to the wall using construction tape; as already mentioned, it cannot be cut. The bathroom is a cramped space, so when applying plaster we recommend using half a rubber ball rather than a trowel. It can be used for any type of work with alabaster, gypsum or hardening compounds. It will be easier to work this way.

The plastering itself must necessarily be carried out along the beacons - for subsequent wall cladding a flat surface is required. It is best to use beacon profiles, which are easy to get at any hardware store. Making beacons yourself is not worth it, you will only waste time and will hardly be able to achieve a smooth surface. The plastering sequence is usual, from the floor to the ceiling. Apply two layers - for the conditions of the bathroom with its changes in humidity and temperature, this form will be the strongest.

Ceiling insulation is required not to maintain temperature conditions, but to prevent future problems that will certainly arise if condensation deposition is not stopped. The best option would be to use a glass-magnesite sheet; unlike the floor, the LSU will be bonded to the surface of the ceiling with silicone or assembly adhesive. While working, use slats as supports, about 1-2 per meter of ceiling. Do not remove them before the glue dries.

Having finished with insulation, we move on to adding gloss, although this gloss has a functional meaning as condensation. A good option is a material such as plastic lining or laminate. Don't worry about the reliability of the material. Moisture-resistant glue, even if it peels off in part of the ceiling, will not lead to collapse - since the boards are connected to each other, forming a single integral structure. After completing the ceiling work, you will begin cladding the walls. The laid tiles will serve as a support for the laminate.

When preparing the material, follow these points:

  1. processing the reverse side of the PVA material with emulsion;
  2. the installation itself is carried out using assembly adhesive or construction silicone;
  3. the ridge of the tongue, which refers to the protrusions by which the boards are connected, as well as the method of such connection itself, is applied thin layer glue, its drips must be cleaned up immediately.

Table vinegar is suitable for silicone; solvent is suitable for glue. Please note - the last two laminate boards should be laid together, fold them like a house and insert, pressing on the joint until it snaps into place. Don't forget about supports until the glue hardens.

Corners should be sealed with silicone to prevent moisture from penetrating under the ceiling sheathing. When making holes for wiring, do not make them at the junction of laminate boards. I think you understand why. Once you've finished covering the ceiling, foam the hole or fill it with silicone.

Of course, there are other options. But self-production suspended ceilings often unjustified, and we will not describe its methods here. If you wish to do this, please read the selection criteria. A slatted ceiling is also possible - also a very common option, but its manufacture is the topic of a separate article.

Tiles are usually used for wall cladding. Porcelain tiles have similar properties, but are more expensive; the advantages that were mentioned when choosing tiles for the floor do not matter for walls. Covering bathroom walls with plastic panels is becoming common; it is quite cheap and meets hygiene rules, but in this article we will not consider how to work with such material.

When laying tiles on walls, the joints must be cut. To do this, crosses are used, inserted between the tiles using glue and immediately removed as described above. The adhesive is applied using longitudinal strokes of a spatula, with an average tile size of 30 by 30 centimeters - 0.25-0.35 square meters each. The presence of voids under the tiles is unacceptable, so apply glue so that the rustications are parallel to each other and not too deep. Each tile you lay should be tapped next to it with a rubber hammer from the previous tile to the free edge. On those tiles that will go to the outlets of the wiring pipes, you need to pre-drill holes with a diamond core bit. Once the glue has set, seal the corners with silicone. The method is simple - a thin layer is applied to the silicone. polyethylene film, then a piece of electrical cable is applied.

Apply pressure and then remove any silicone streaks with vinegar. A smooth concave surface should form. If desired, the corner seam can be covered with a decorative overlay using the same silicone. On a plane, seams are cut using a special compound, which is cheaper than silicone. The cross is removed, the remaining seam is filled and pressed down with a cable - the film is not necessary in this procedure - the drips are removed. Do not cut the seams with your finger - there will be irregularities inside the seam that are invisible to the eye, in which dirt tends to accumulate. The technology for laying wall and floor tiles does not differ in itself; a small feature for the floor will be discussed in the next section.

Please note that if you use a mixer with decorative caps, then you should buy a crown larger diameter than pipes. Otherwise, you will have to measure the places for the holes, which requires jewelry work.

There are two tile options for the floor - the reasons why porcelain tiles are better than tiles or wooden floors have already been explained.

In the case of a wooden floor, the procedure will be more expensive, but the result will be more pleasant. The boards should be selected tongue-and-groove; the installation procedure will be similar to the ceiling, but leaving a distance of 2-2.5 centimeters from the wall. This space is designed for swelling of the boards. Do not leave cavities; fill the gaps with polystyrene foam before installing the baseboard. Coated with PVA emulsion and liquid acrylic varnish wooden floor will last a very long time.

Regarding tiles, installation should be done from the door so that the cut tiles are located under the slope or bathtub, where they will not be visible. This last row of cut slabs is laid last after the glue has hardened under the other slabs, so as not to disturb the previously done work. The only difference from laying on the wall is the absence of seams - the tiles are adjusted to each other.

First of all, inspect the box that was removed in preparation for the repair. Often, after cleaning and repainting, they are suitable for further use. Just install it back. It will be better if you additionally install a flapper valve in it to avoid cold air flows in winter. It is recommended to install a fan for the ventilation system; this will ensure better air circulation in the apartment and prevent fungus from appearing on the walls.

It has no fundamental features. Often to new products You can even find instructions on the sequence of actions to install it. Your actions include installing a bathtub (you won’t be able to do it yourself without an assistant) or a shower stall, as well as a sink. Then come the faucets, then the water meter. If you wish, you can connect a water heater to your bathroom.

It is permissible to install stationary electrical appliances such as an exhaust fan in the bathroom; the cord must be three-core, have a protective conductor and a Euro plug with a sealed entry into the housing, and ceiling lamp, requiring waterproof performance. The washing machine is a topic for a separate discussion, since it is not a stationary appliance.

All the necessary steps for doing a DIY bathroom renovation were discussed. Watch the video where the bathroom renovation procedure is described step by step. We did not mention bathrooms combined with a toilet due to the numerous features of the work and approximately twice the labor intensity than for the renovation of two separate rooms; this topic needs to be discussed separately. As you can see, the procedure is labor-intensive, and if you are unsure of your skills, then it is better not to take it.

It is better to entrust this labor-intensive and rather lengthy procedure to specialists. They know exactly how to do everything right. But you should still familiarize yourself with all aspects of a bathroom renovation for a better chance of completing the entire renovation procedure successfully and without complications.

At the very least, after reading this article, you will be able to monitor the work of the performers whom you decide to entrust with bathroom renovations. On the other hand, if you are confident of success, go ahead! Repair costs will be reduced significantly. For more successful DIY bathroom renovation, we recommend that you watch a video on this procedure.