Assembly of rounded houses. Technology for assembling a log house

In this article we will look at how to make a house from a log with your own hands, which will not be inferior in beauty and functionality to a structure made by specialists.

Modern technologies

If you have a question about how to build a house from a log, we recommend reading this material. The most popular thing is to build a house from rounded logs. There is an explanation for this:

1. This type of building material undergoes preliminary mechanical processing, due to which each trunk has the same size.
2. The length of the logs is adjusted according to the customer’s project, and with the help of laser equipment a connection is made on each trunk with great precision. Thanks to this, there is practically no manual adjustment, and the frame is assembled as if from parts of a construction set.

Where to begin?

Of course, from the project. There is some limitation to the flight of fancy for creating own project The size of the logs can be used - they have a certain length. Therefore, you first need to inquire about what is sold in your area, since standard length logs - 6 m, and the maximum can reach 13 m, but this is only possible if you purchase Siberian larch.

However, if your knowledge of design is superficial, then it is better not to experiment, as mistakes can be very costly, to the point that the house may become uninhabitable. What to do?

There are many ready-made projects on the vast expanses of the Internet - some can be downloaded for free, others are sold. The second option is more reliable, since everything is calculated down to the smallest detail by specialists. Whatever route you take, before you build a log house, you need to have a clear idea of ​​the size of the house and the number of floors. This will help you decide what kind of foundation you need.

Choosing a foundation

From how much solid foundation will have a house built from logs, the period it will last depends. The undoubted advantage of a wooden house is its light weight, due to which there is no need to make an overly powerful foundation. Its structure may be different, but the foundation must be built in accordance with all standards of strength and reliability. Let's consider several options suitable for this purpose:

• Shallow strip foundation.
• Columnar foundation.
• Pile foundation.
• Slab foundation.

The most common is strip foundation. This is followed by columnar and pile, but in cases where the soil is too loose and wet, then the last option remains - the device slab foundation. This costs more, but even if a log house “floats”, it will only be with the slab. In any case, before deciding what kind of foundation to make, you need to “get to know” the soil.

After completing the work, carefully check the levelness of the base surface using a hydraulic level. If the difference is more than 1 cm, then it must be leveled cement mortar or waterproofing.

Material selection

Even a child will answer the question about which tree is the most resinous - well, who doesn’t remember how hard it is to wash your hands after you grab the trunk. Someone may have less pleasant, but vivid memories of resin - sitting on a bench, from the boards of which this liquid was released, sticking to everything it came into contact with. Undoubtedly the most resinous are tree logs. coniferous species.

Due to the fact that this wood contains a lot of resin, it is less susceptible to rotting. In addition, the trunks coniferous trees straight, and this is one of the most important factors to build a wooden house, so, given the low cost of this material, we will choose it.

If you wish and have the funds, you can purchase larch beams, which have a very beautiful texture, they are strong and durable, but very expensive.

Stages of work

For any house, and especially for a wooden one, you need to be well insulated construction material from moisture. First of all, the concrete is coated with molten bitumen. Before laying the first crown, lay at least 2 layers of waterproofing on the foundation (in addition, you can install it once with “glass insulation”). Then there is a laying board, and on top there is another layer of waterproofing, which must be laid in such a way that all layers extend 25 cm beyond the edge of the foundation on all sides.

The timber must be prepared in advance, even when unloading the timber onto the site. You need as even logs as possible, with minimum quantity knots and without blue. The forest is selected based on its annual rings - the one with the most rings is the densest. Please note that this is central part tree. This can be determined by the location of the center point on the cut of the log.

Be sure to coat the selected wood several times with liquid bitumen mastic(this composition is achieved by mixing with waste machine oil), leaving the ends untouched, as moisture will escape through them. This will help to saturate the timber as much as possible, thereby significantly increasing the service life of the crown before it is replaced.

If the log is slightly curved, then it should be laid with its straight edge down. Secure the beams with metal dowels, which need to be driven to a depth of 3 cm.

Next, the house is assembled from blanks, which is not particularly difficult. While maintaining the sequence of laying, the logs must be laid on top of each other, but before laying the next logs, attach tape insulation made of jute, hemp or tow to the longitudinal groove.

It is important to securely fasten the timber near window openings and doors. This is done using a dowel - a wooden stake that connects 2-3 logs. Before securing the log, check its position relative to the wall. Secure it with nails by driving them into the sides.

This will prevent the log from moving when drilling it with a hammer drill with long drill, the diameter of which should be 5 mm less than the dowel used. That is, if the drill is Ø 20 mm, then the dowel should be Ø 25 mm. Tightly driven dowels firmly hold the logs together, making the frame strong.

Video

This video talks about building a house from logs.

Wooden houses and cottages made of rounded logs have been popular for many years.

Is not fashion trend, this is ecological comfortable housing with many advantages:
Pleasant coolness in summer heat, cozy warmth in the winter cold, Fresh air with a subtle aroma of wood, optimal humidity- all this without additional hoods and air conditioners.
Natural and majestic beauty natural wood allows you to save on interior decoration.
Construction of a log house and installation of a wooden house from logs in two or three months.
The strength of rounded logs is incomparably higher than glued material, so the house turns out to be durable.
from logs prepared in chamber drying, does not shrink.

Technology and stages of the installation process

Construction techniques proven over centuries, combined with modern technologies, do not seem complicated. A set of parts with connecting cups is manufactured at the factory, all that remains is to assemble the house like a construction set. But lack of experience and knowledge can lead to twisted logs, crushed window frames or mold in the house.
Installation of a wooden house made of logs, the opinion of practitioners:
1. Antiseptic backing boards are laid on the foundation waterproofing. The bottom trim is not attached to the foundation.
2. The walls are assembled according to assembly drawings. Intercrown seal attached to the longitudinal groove before each laying of the log
3. To fasten the crowns of the log house, use wooden dowels square section(not metal). The fastening is done in a checkerboard pattern, placing the dowels at a distance of a maximum of 1.5 meters. This will prevent the logs from shifting and provide strength to the structure.
4. In the vertical grooves in the ends of the logs that go to the door and window openings casing bars are inserted. Door and window boxes are attached to the casing with self-tapping screws or nails.
5. In cuttings, logs are spliced ​​along the length - the joints are fastened with steel staples. This will prevent the appearance of gaps and the formation of cold bridges.
6. Floor beams are cut into the wall and secured with special hangers and metal supports. The pitch of the beams and the cross-section are calculated depending on the load and span length.
7. If logs with natural moisture are used in construction, hanging rafters are used. Sloping rafters are rigidly connected to ridge beam And log walls. If the structure shrinks unevenly, they will pull along the relatively movable walls assembled on dowels.

Correct installation of the foundation for a log house

The quality of the future structure depends on a sound and competently laid foundation. Wooden buildings relatively light. The expected load corresponds to load bearing capacity economical types of foundation: columnar, pile and shallow-buried strip.
Columnar is a cheap and simple type of foundation. The posts are installed at the intersection points of the walls and on the purlins.

The distance between the posts depends on the length of the run - ideally 1.5 meters, maximum 2.5 meters. From above they are connected with a grillage.

If the house is small, the crown beam is laid directly on the insulation layer without a grillage. To do correct device foundation for a log house, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the soil at the construction site. Having determined the groundwater line, the level of freezing and the type of soil, the depth of the foundation is calculated. For clay soil A deep foundation is recommended; in sandy areas, a shallow foundation is recommended.
A pile foundation differs from a columnar foundation in the absence of a foundation pit. To install piles, holes are drilled, reinforced and filled with concrete. The base of the piles goes into the non-freezing layer. In frosty winters, the soil begins to push them out.

To prevent ejection, expansion is made at the bottom of the piles using folding plows while drilling holes.

This keeps the piles in the ground in winter. Such an anchor resists the forces of tangential heaving in cold weather.
A shallow strip foundation is suitable for installing single-story and two-story houses on non-heaving soil. To build a foundation, you need to clear the area, remove the turf and dig a trench strictly according to the drawing of the future building. For accuracy, markings should be done with pegs. The formwork is installed in the trench, then the reinforcing elements are fixed. At the bottom of the trench, a sand cushion of 30 to 40 centimeters, at least 30 centimeters wide, is poured. Then it's poured concrete mixture. The height of a shallow strip foundation should be at least 80 centimeters or about 1 meter. The base (ground part) of the foundation protrudes 50 centimeters and is equipped with ventilation holes. The external formwork is removed after the concrete has completely hardened.

Maximum thermal insulation to save heating costs

A log house is warm, heat leaks occur due to structural damage. The main heat losses come from the floor, ceiling, doors and windows.
Insulating the floor is not difficult to do. The insulation is laid between the joists on the ground or a second floor is built, and the insulation is laid between the floors. The cost of the first insulation option is lower, and it can be done faster. To prevent moisture from coming from the ground, a vapor barrier is first laid. You can use two layers of roofing felt and bend its edges onto the walls. Then put insulation - cellulose ecowool or glass wool. There must be a ventilation gap of at least 3 centimeters above the insulation.
The thermal protection of the entire building largely depends on the condition of the ceiling. Warm air strives upward and leaves through the uninsulated ceiling. Therefore, the ceiling is insulated mineral wool. Depending on the climate, a 20 or 30 centimeter layer is laid. It is undesirable to use polystyrene foam; it is a fire hazard. No less effective, but more cheap way insulation from natural materials: straw, hay or dry leaves mixed with lime. More attention paid to insulating the corners and edges of the attic. A vapor barrier is placed under the insulation.
To prevent doors and windows from leaking heat, cracks must be eliminated. It is easier to install modern double-glazed windows and double doors. A less expensive option is to caulk the cracks, seal the glass with sealant, stick a sealant on the sashes, door leaf 5 centimeters of polystyrene foam and cover with decorative fabric or leatherette.
To be maximum thermal insulation To save heating costs, you should pay attention to the walls. Gaps appear between the logs after shrinkage. The walls are caulking old-fashioned method, only using modern materials. You can build a ventilated façade and insulate the walls with mineral wool.

When wondering what kind of house I would like to live in, for some reason I remember a tower from children's fairy tales. Why not? A wooden house has an excellent internal climate: warm in winter and cool in summer, always dry, even in very humid areas, the wonderful rich aroma of wood creates not just comfort, but also a wonderful atmosphere for life and creativity. In your search for the ideal home, you inevitably come to the realization that no one has come up with anything better than log houses. They are beautiful, practical, do not require finishing, retain heat perfectly and are absolutely environmentally friendly, if not even healing. Construction log house- a very responsible and labor-intensive task, although our ancestors overwhelmingly built such houses on their own, everyone knew the technology that was passed on from generation to generation, but today the thread of knowledge has been broken. There are very few good architects left, but industrial methods for building wooden houses have appeared. Of course, you can choose turnkey log houses, but within the framework of this article we will consider options for how to build log house with your own hands.

Rounded or planed (chopped) log - which is better?

In total, two types of buildings are called log houses: the first is made of chopped logs, i.e. planed by hand, it is also called “wild log house”, the second is made from logs rounded on a special machine. Let's figure out which option is better.

Until the beginning of the twentieth century, all log houses were exclusively "wild log house". What does this mean? All the logs were processed by hand, carefully removed from a freshly cut tree upper layer- bark, while trying to keep the bast layer intact, which protects the deeper layers of wood from moisture from the outside. This provided amazing resistance to fungi and mold. Obviously, the sawn log tapers from the lower end, which is closer to the root, to the upper end, which is closest to the top. Even after processing, this difference in diameter remains; the closer to the top, the thinner the log. Enough tall tree can be cut into 3 logs: the thickest one, the end of which is located near the rhizome, is called the butt, the middle one is called the druga, and the top one is the third or top. The butt was always used for construction, as it is the most durable, thickest and has a smaller change in diameter. To compensate for the difference in thickness, when constructing a log house, the butt and top were always alternated. In one crown, the butt “looks” in one direction, and in the next, in the opposite direction. Selecting hand-cut logs is not an easy task, because it is necessary to create an even, durable structure from logs of different diameters.

Construction technology to this day log houses arrived almost unchanged. Everyone also builds houses from different-sized logs, trying to fit them as perfectly as possible. Moreover, such houses are considered luxury housing, and the services for their construction are much more expensive than houses made of timber or even rounded logs. This is dictated by the complexity, duration and labor intensity of the work. After construction, a log house made from chopped logs must stand for at least 1 - 1.5 years, during which time the wood will shrink by about 5 - 7%. Only after this can you start decorating the house: installing doors, windows, installing communications, etc. In general, in addition to the colossal work of preparing and individually fitting the logs, a lot of waiting time will be required.

Thanks to modern technologies, all inconveniences using planed logs can be avoided. On special machines in industrial conditions, logs are processed to a perfectly cylindrical shape, and a groove is cut into them for further fastening into crowns. All dimensions are adjusted to the millimeter. This greatly simplifies the work when constructing a log house; it simply resembles assembling a construction kit according to instructions and drawings.

Very light and comfortable material for construction, but he lost all the advantages of planed logs in production. The fact is that during the production process, not only the bark is removed from the log, but also all the upper layers, including the sapwood, leaving only mature and heartwood, which is not protected in any way from external factors. Therefore, when used, a rounded log is treated with special antiseptics and other antifungal and anti-rot impregnations, as well as agents that prevent insect damage. The result is: comfortable, beautiful, very smooth and less durable and environmentally friendly. In addition, the maximum diameter of such a log is less than 300 mm, while a chopped log can be of any diameter.

For ready-made log houses, the price depends precisely on what kind of log was used: chopped or rounded. Log houses are more expensive. And although many say that they look less aesthetically pleasing, in fact this is not so: from hand-planed logs you can create a masterpiece according to your personal taste. individual order, which will not be like any other house in the world. At the same time, the walls look primitive and unusual. It is much easier to build a house from rounded logs, especially on your own, since the human factor is almost completely eliminated.

Log houses: projects, technologies, cost

Any construction begins with the creation of a project, and the construction of a log house is no exception. You can take a ready-made project, or you can make it individual by ordering it from a special bureau. You shouldn’t first pour the foundation and then think about what kind of house you would like to build, because it will be quite difficult to adjust it to the dimensions of a ready-made foundation.

The cost of a log house depends on its number of storeys, material and complexity of the structure. Houses may have one floor, or two or three. The walls can be adjacent to each other at almost any angle, since the logs can be cut into a bowl of any shape. Those. a polygon-shaped wall is quite normal for a log house.

Today, log houses are built in two ways: logs are prepared directly on the construction site from chopped wood, or a house is assembled according to a drawing from rounded logs pre-made and fitted at the factory.

In the first case, the forest is always natural humidity, i.e. After construction, the log house is caulked and left for a year and a half to shrink, and only then work continues. Installation of windows and doors is carried out using two technologies: the first is to immediately cut the logs to the required length, leaving space for a window or doorway, the second is based on first allowing the wood to dry evenly, shrink, and only then next year, cut out openings. The second option is preferable, as it ensures the strength and durability of the log house due to uniform shrinkage. But this is a waste of time. And the first option is faster, so it is used more often, although to the detriment of the log house itself.

Rounded logs are sold both at natural moisture content and dried in production. The designer always assumes that all the logs already have their final length, all that remains is to assemble it. Companies involved in the construction of houses from rounded logs extremely rarely agree to build from unprocessed logs; almost always the fitting and complete assembly of the house is carried out in production, then the log house is marked, disassembled and transported to the site where it is reassembled.

How much a log house costs depends not only on the type of log, but also on its diameter, as well as on the related work that the customer asks to perform. For example, the construction of only a log house from rounded logs will cost approximately 280 - 350 USD. for 1 m2, from chopped logs - 350 - 450 USD. for 1 m2. If you order in construction company arrangement of the foundation, carrying out communications, finishing the house, in general, everything, then count on 1000 USD. for 1 m2.

How to choose the right wood for a log house

Most often, the construction of log houses is made from coniferous wood: pine, spruce, larch, cedar, but you can also use aspen, oak, ash and other deciduous trees. Pine and spruce are the most affordable materials, so they prevail. It is necessary to purchase logs cut down in winter; such wood has ideal moisture resistance characteristics.

If you have the opportunity to choose, it is better to opt for northern coniferous wood, it is more resistant to negative impacts. A good option- pine from the Baltic coast and Canadian spruce. But wood harvested in the middle zone is also not bad if all storage, drying and transportation conditions are met.

Important! Please note when choosing wood that grown in different climatic zones the forest will have absolutely different characteristics and density level, despite the same processing conditions.

It is better to buy wood from a proven and reliable harvester. The strength of the entire house depends on this. If you make a mistake with the wood, it's a waste of money. The diameter of the logs is selected depending on the design of the house and the severity winter cold. For example, if the temperature in winter does not drop below -20 °C, 200 mm of logs are enough, if up to -30 °C, then 220 mm of logs, and if up to -40 °C, then 240 - 260 mm. Of course, these calculations are purely advisory in nature. You can safely choose logs of greater thickness, up to 500 - 600 mm in diameter, or use 250 mm logs in a fairly warm climate, the tree compensates for temperature changes.

When you come to a sawmill or timber warehouse, pay attention to the following features:

• The surface of the logs should be yellow or dark yellow.
• The cut should be tight and even, without blue spots.
• The core should occupy ¾ of the cut and have an even dark shade.
• There should be no resin pockets.
• It's better if there are no branches. But even if they are present, they should sit without gaps. If you see such a picture, it means the core is rotten.
• When the ax hits the end of the log, there should be a ringing sound.
• The maximum depth of a permissible crack in a log should be 1/3 of the cut.
• The logs should not be twisted; in the construction of a house they can only be used for floorboards and rafters, having previously been cut into bars.

Feel free to reject logs with the above flaws. If you are buying a project house made of rounded logs, be sure to include a clause in the contract obliging you to replace substandard logs at the company’s expense upon the customer’s first request. Pay attention to the conditions in which the timber was stored, whether all requirements were met, or maybe after a couple of months mold will appear on the logs.

DIY log house

The easiest option for self-construction- house made of rounded logs. We will consider this further, since a log house will still require not only the ability to hold a tool in your hands, but also decent experience in working with wood.

First of all, we order a project or a house already finished project in a special company. After we have discussed all the issues, the factory produces full set logs for our house, as well as floor beams, joists and rafters. This is where the house is assembled for the first time to make sure that all the logs are cut correctly. The house is then dismantled.

Our participation begins with an inspection of the timber package. Then we must prepare a place on the building site for storing wood, equipping it with a canopy so that the wood does not get wet in the rain.

Foundation for a log house

Before building a log house, it is necessary to arrange the foundation on which it will stand. Since a wooden house is a relatively light structure, the foundation can be made shallow. Most often used pile-strip foundation, pile, slab and less often buried strip.

Let's consider a pile-strip foundation.

• We mark the area, then remove the top fertile layer and set it aside for landscaping needs.
• We excavate the soil to a depth of up to 30 cm across the width of the strip foundation.
• Along the perimeter of the building, in increments of about 2 m, we drill wells with a diameter of up to 180 mm, to the depth of soil freezing, i.e. 150 cm.
• We fill the wells with a layer of sand and crushed stone.
• We weld the frame from the reinforcement and lower it into the well.
• We fill the well with concrete, then tamp it with a vibrator.
• Install wooden formwork for strip foundation. It should protrude no less than 50 - 60 cm above the ground level.
• We weld the frame for the strip foundation and connect it to the reinforcement sticking out of the wells.
• We fill the strip foundation with concrete, compact it and wait for it to harden.

After the foundation has completely dried, you can begin waterproofing it. This is especially important since our house is made of wood. We lay roofing material on the foundation in 3 - 4 layers and additionally coat it with mastic.

Construction of a log house from rounded logs: erection of walls

Please note, this is extremely important; the first crown - the mortgage - cannot be installed directly on the foundation. Although you may encounter such a design, be aware that it threatens that the mortgage crown will quickly become unusable.

So, to begin with, we lay the so-called “backing” linden board on the foundation. This can be a beam about 50 - 100 mm thick and at least 150 mm wide. Then we begin to assemble the log house:

Important! The lower mortgage rim must have an end cut off at the bottom with a width of at least 150 mm. This is necessary so that the house rests firmly on the plane of the end. If you suddenly notice that the crown logs have the same groove as all the others, contact the manufacturer and request a replacement.

• The first two logs of the foundation crown are laid on opposite walls of the foundation parallel to each other, on a backing board. We carefully check their even position.

Important! All logs included in the set already have a factory-made groove for a longitudinal connection and a locking gusset. Most often this is a moon groove and a “bowl” connection.

• We lay insulation on the logs that we will lay on the remaining two sides. We fill the entire groove and recess of the bowl with caulking material. It could be moss, tow, hemp or jute. Most often, for caulking rounded logs, jute or linen tape insulation is used with a width corresponding to the width of the groove in the log. We spread the insulation so that at the edges it hangs 5 ​​- 6 cm on each side. We fasten it using a construction stapler.

Important! The recess must be completely filled with insulation. When the jute tape is spread, it covers the entire longitudinal groove, but in the bowl it only goes through the middle. Therefore, in the area of ​​the bowl it is necessary to insulate with two pieces.

• We install two logs on the transverse sides of the foundation, resting them on the mortgage crown. The bowls should fit together neatly. We check that there is the required angle between the logs, for example, 90 °. We control the level of their horizontality. The insulation should hang from the log.

• We install all other crowns according to the same scheme, assembling them like a construction set.
• For greater strength, some technologies involve fastening the crowns together not only with the help of grooves and bowls, but also with dowels. These are wooden slats made of denser wood. A hole is drilled in the logs to a depth of more than one log and a dowel is inserted into the hole.

• The last two crowns are not secured. This is necessary for proper shrinkage.

Important! We must treat all logs with antiseptics, otherwise they will rot in the first winter.

Do not forget to constantly check the correct installation. Horizontal logs and strict verticality of the log house are required. The rounded log house kit includes holes for window and door frames. We carefully lay the short logs and secure them carefully.

Installation of a log house roof

Log walls cannot be left without a roof, so immediately after the walls are erected, we cover the frame. Rafters and floor beams are included in the kit. The rafters can be installed directly on the logs of the upper crown, or you can first lay the mauerlat (beam for the rafters).

If the project provides for a veranda, then we insert special shrinkage compensators, because horizontally laid logs will dry out and shrink, but vertical logs will not. To prevent the house from warping, all vertical logs must be equipped with compensators.

We connect the ridge logs using metal pins. We install the rafters in increments of 600 mm. For this we use 50x200 mm timber. We attach the rafters to the last crown on sliding supports. We lay a waterproofing film on top of the rafters. Then we attach the sheathing, the pitch of which depends on the chosen roofing material. Lastly, we lay the roofing material.

After the walls of the log house are ready and the roof is installed, all the insulation that sticks out of the logs should be carefully caulked. To do this, using a caulking tool (tool), we wrap these 5 - 6 cm of insulation down and push it inside the gap between the crowns. Then we make a pushing movement at the top of the gap and in the middle.

In this condition: with the roof and walls caulked for the first time, we leave the house for a year to shrink.

A year later, we repeat the caulking, sealing all newly formed cracks and gaps with tow, hemp or jute.

Important! Sometimes it is advised to carry out another caulking after the house is whole year be operated with the heating turned on in winter.

Installation of doors, windows, installation of ceilings and floors

All windows, doors and partitions are installed only after maximum shrinkage of the log house, i.e. a year after construction.

Neither doors nor windows are placed directly into openings. To begin with, wooden casing boxes with compensation fastening and they already have windows and doors. This precaution is due to the fact that wood is a plastic material. It expands from moisture and shrinks from its lack, in addition, the shrinkage of a wooden house lasts 5 - 6 years. And although a rounded log is less susceptible to shrinkage, casing is still necessary.

The floor joists of the first floor cut into the embedded crown or the subsequent one. They must be firmly attached. Since the embedded crown must be well ventilated so as not to rot longer, it is recommended to install the floor on the joists with the crown higher.

At this stage you can already mount heating system and other communications, install interior doors, slopes, baseboards, plumbing and other finishing.

Now that the log house is ready, you can move in. In conclusion, I would like to note that logs of insufficient length can be joined, but it is important to make a connecting groove, and there should not be many such joints in one wall. Vents should be provided in the foundation for free ventilation of the underground. And don’t forget, you can’t leave the log house uncovered with a roof or at least a film, and also don’t treat it with an antiseptic. A rounded log can deteriorate even in one season.

During the debate that flared up after the publication of the article “Ours in America,” a reader contacted the site’s editor who wanted to talk about his personal experience. Vyacheslav has been living with his family in a house from solid log house. And according to him, if he knew all the “nuances” at the time of choosing the material, he would build a house from bricks or blocks. Below in the text is his personal “Top reasons why you should not build a log house.” To maintain authenticity, we left the text almost unchanged, making only light stylistic changes.

Why did we want a wooden house?

1. Once we saw with our own eyes a house made of logs - we immediately liked it, it looked very beautiful, we wanted one for ourselves.

2. For practical reasons: initially it was assumed that we would come on weekends, heat the solid fuel boiler and quickly warm up the house (the concept changed during the construction process).

3. Environmental friendliness: I wanted the house to breathe easily and smell like a pine forest. In general, I liked the traditional concept of living in a private house: wooden frame, grass near the house, forest nearby, etc.

house in summer

Start of construction

back view

Here we managed to learn a little from the mistakes of others. A friend of mine, in order to save money, purchased the timber himself. As a result, a timber truck came to him, the cutters selected suitable logs, half of the timber truck went back... In the end, 120 cubic meters his timber turned into 200. I worked with contractors who sorted the wood at their base, and only what was actually used for work was brought to the site.

view from the yard

Initially, I was not worried about the construction process, since I trusted the contractors. During the work, they still made some mistakes in some places, but not much (more on that below). The logs were laid on moss. They chopped and hewed - by hand. After they made the “box” with the roof, the house stood for a year.

from the entrance

One of the interesting things about the construction process is that I can note the discrepancy between the actual sizes of the rooms and their visual perception until the moment of covering the floors. I personally measured the 19-meter kitchen with a tape measure, because visually it seemed that there were 7-8 meters there. And so - with all the rooms.

Finishing

The most interesting thing began at this stage. Firstly, the house needs to be sanded ENTIRELY on both sides. This work is tedious and expensive - prices for work can be looked up on the Internet, four years ago it cost us a pretty penny (375 sq. m. at $5 per 1 sq. m.). Moreover, when estimating the area of ​​work, the bend of the log is added to the formula “height by length” - the area increases.

upper plinth - adjustable to curves

Then - impregnation ($0.7 per 1 sq.m.). Then - painting in one layer. Then - to the second (both - $1 per 1 sq.m.). Moreover, so that the materials fit well, the house must be painted by hand(which stretches the process over time). After all these procedures, the question of a “breathing house” and “the smell of pine” disappeared by itself.
We didn’t make a basement, so our foundation is simple: PGS pad, insulation, concrete. The builders who poured the floor did not completely cut out the lower logs in doorways. As a result, a year later it “broke” in these places floor tiles(ceramic granite). I had to remove the entire damaged tile, cut out more logs, and pour a new floor. This turned out to be easier than somehow cutting out the laid tiles - not every tile cutter takes porcelain tiles.

a crack in the tile remains in the doorway

Added to the “pleasant” aspects of finishing are regular finishing off moss, stolen by birds, and sealing seams with sealant. This work is long, expensive and dreary. Fortunately, in the Republic of Belarus there is a sealant manufacturer that offers products at reasonable prices. If he missed the mark with imported ones, he would go to hell.

Laying communications in a log house it also becomes a problem. Plug the socket into round log- that’s another task (and a corresponding “tariff”). You can't hide the pipes inside. Attaching a plinth to an uneven log is also not an easy task, you will have to “think about it” and work with your hands.

plinth - strip + mastic

Due to the long-term shrinkage of the house, doors and windows were inserted into a frame made of boards. If you try to bet on a “live log”, the risk of getting it “sideways” increases significantly. Like risk of damaging the door or window. But even this “trick” did not help us personally: in 4 years of operation, the doors were adjusted twice. And some windows still siphon.

Home maintenance

box for the kitchen (on the left against the wall)

The house is constantly “breathing”. When the heating works, when it doesn’t, everything moves. To hang the kitchen, it was necessary to build a metal frame, cover it with plasterboard, and only attach the kitchen to it. No other way. The sliding wardrobes so beloved by our citizens are absolutely impossible to install - there is nothing to “attach” to, and the wall and ceiling live their own lives. The staircase, which was “tied” to the wall, eventually became warped and the railing was torn out.

instead of a wardrobe...

Any decorative boxes covering communications turn into a work of art - they need to be somehow combine with log wall , and this process turns into jewelry fitting with a construction cutter in hand.

The joints sealed with sealant were sealed twice in 4 years. Doesn't matter - cracks appear. Wooden floor on the 2nd floor it is also drying out, there are also cracks there, and this is inevitable.

crack between logs

In autumn mice get into the house, in the gap between the lower log and the foundation. It is not yet possible to block this road for them, since the interface line is very uneven. And if on the main “animal trails” this phenomenon can be reduced to “nothing” with the help of poison and mousetraps, then when mice frolic between the logs without “visiting”, nothing can be done with them. Just curse it.

Also between logs every year wasps make their nests. The issue is resolved with the help of Dichlorvos. But it still has to be decided.

In autumn and early winter, the second floor is a kingdom of flies. First flies get stuck in the cracks for the winter. Then the house becomes warm - and they climb inside. We have not yet come up with any other means against this brethren except a vacuum cleaner.

And we also - best friends sellers of Tikkurila paint. There needs touching up, here you need to tint: steps, joints, terrace. They didn’t keep accurate records of production, but a lot of buckets of paint were purchased over 4 years.

In the spring, when the pine tree (and then the birch tree) blooms, the whole the house is covered yellow pollen. Moreover, in a thick layer. On level ground vertical wall there simply wouldn’t be so much of it accumulated. This issue is resolved by washing the walls with a jet from a Karcher. But again it needs to be resolved.

Bath

Inside the house dust accumulates on the bend of the logs. Here already universal remedies no - dust can only be removed manually, the old fashioned way.

Sometimes spontaneous, inexplicable bursts of life happen inside the house - some bugs, midges, insects appear, but I have not installed any system here yet.

In the bathhouse, near the guest bed, some kind of perky creature lives in a log, crunching the log all night. It is not possible to find and kill her.

And finally - about the famous “winter” forest. My house was cut down from February. The bathhouse is from August. I still haven't noticed a difference.

Price issue

Considering all of the above, such housing cannot be called cheap. House with a total area of ​​240 sq. m. (with a small attic floor) cost me $40,000 only for the first stage: foundation, frame and roof. Then the project grew, we also built an outbuilding, a bathhouse from the same “round timber,” and landscaped the area and the street next to the house. All this (including materials, finishing, windows, doors and geothermal boiler) cost us a total of $180,000.

shrinkage to the roof

Conclusion: What we got for this torment is very beautiful house. And some kind of indescribable pleasure from the feeling of a thick, uneven log, its rough appearance, rich texture... Friends who began to build across the site from mine listened to approximately the same text, my complaints and advice to build from blocks. And in the end... the log house was also cut down. Here, of course, everyone decides for themselves. But I gave you fair warning.

Interviewed by: Dmitry Malakhov

Wooden house construction is gaining popularity among private developers, especially when it comes to constructing buildings from rounded logs. Wooden house It retains heat perfectly, does not require external or internal finishing, is environmentally friendly, and always maintains a comfortable microclimate due to the ability of wood to “breathe.”

The technology for assembling a log house from rounded logs is a combination of classical techniques of wooden house construction, which have been polished over centuries, and the latest achievements in the field of woodworking and the production of insulating materials.

Features of rounded logs

The advantage of rounded logs is their ideal geometry, which allows this material to be used for the manufacture of log parts that do not require additional adjustment.

Using high-precision equipment, bowls and grooves necessary for installing the log house are cut out in the logs. The production of elements is carried out for a specific project in order to obtain the output ready set for the construction of a building of a given size and layout. The prepared elements are treated with a special antiseptic, which does not clog the pores of the wood and allows moisture to evaporate freely.

The reliability and performance properties of a structure made from rounded logs are ensured by:

• ideally shaped elements made from rounded logs;
• connection density;
• wood resistance to external influences, weather conditions;
• low thermal conductivity of natural wood.

Rounded log Russian production complies with the standards in force in Europe. For construction, logs with a diameter of 200 to 280 mm are usually used, the error in size does not exceed 2 mm.

Assembling a house from rounded logs can be done independently if you have the skill to work with wood. To guarantee a high result, it is recommended to involve professionals in construction.

When assembling a log house from rounded logs, it is recommended to use jute fabric as insulation. This is a plant material that consists of 20% lignin, a substance with high adhesive properties that is released when strongly compressed. After the log house has finished, the jute fabric will be compacted, its fibers will stick together, forming a dense, monolithic layer that is resistant to blowing and moisture.

Arrangement of the lower crown

At the first stage, you should check the quality of the foundation. In a concrete grillage pile foundation or the strip base should not have cracks, otherwise over time the structure will collapse, causing uneven subsidence and destruction of the house itself.

The foundation should be waterproofed so that the wood lower crown did not come into contact with capillary moisture that rises through the concrete. Two layers of roofing material are laid on the base. On top, along the entire perimeter of the structure, boards treated with an antiseptic are laid. It is recommended to use larch boards; this wood is resistant to rot.

As in roofing felt, holes should be made in the boards to fit over the embedded reinforcement protruding vertically from the foundation base. Thanks to the pins, the lower part of the frame is securely fixed to the base. The reinforcement must be covered with a layer of bitumen.

Next, the lower (support) crown is mounted - usually logs are used for this larger diameter compared to the others. The first log is applied to the installation site to mark future holes in its lower part for the reinforcement pins of the foundation. To make a mark, hit the top of the log with the butt of an ax.

Then the log is laid with the basting side up, holes are drilled for the pins and a 5 mm thick jute insulation tape is placed in the groove, with the edges turned inward. Tape width – 200 mm. The log is mounted in place, while it is placed on the ends of the reinforcement.

The remaining elements of the lower crown are laid according to a similar pattern. In this case, the bowls in the corners of the structure are lined with jute insulation. For fastening jute fabric use construction stapler with brackets.

Walling

During assembly log house The crowns are fastened together with dowels (dowels) - special rods made from straight-grained hardwood. Birch dowels are most often used. The fasteners are arranged in a checkerboard pattern in increments of about 1-1.5 meters.

Holes for dowels are drilled through the top log, strictly vertically from the top point of the arc, so that the fasteners are located in the center of the log. The dowel should extend into the bottom log by 3-5 cm. This method of fastening prevents displacement of the log house elements relative to neighboring ones and reduces the risk of deformation of the walls.

Please note: dowels come in round or square cross-section, and it is preferable to use square ones to reduce the area of ​​contact between the dowel and the log. In this case, when shrinking, the logs do not “hang”, forming fistulas between the crowns.

At the design stage, the arrangement of cuttings should be planned if it is necessary to splice logs along their length. If you simply join the elements end to end, cracks will form after shrinkage, which leads to increased heat loss. When arranging cuttings, steel brackets must be used - wooden dowels are not enough to fasten nodes with increased loads.

Openings and roofing

In a round house, after assembling the log house, door and window openings are cut out. At the side ends of these openings it is necessary to cut a 50x50 mm groove or form a tenon with the same cross-section.

Fiber insulation and a block of suitable cross-section are placed into the groove, which will prevent the walls from deforming or twisting. Then window or door frames. A gap of at least 7 cm is left in the upper part for shrinkage of the log house, the gap is filled with fiber insulation.

If spikes are formed at the ends of the opening, U-shaped casing sidewalls are placed on them. The sidewalls are fastened at the top and bottom with horizontal strips. Subsequently, a window or door block is installed in the casing.

Floor beams are installed on the finished log house, cutting them into the wall. Then they erect rafter system and install temporary or permanent roofing to protect the house structure from precipitation. It is recommended to lay the subfloor immediately.

The finished log house is left alone for a period of six months to one and a half years. During this period, the log structure has time to dry out and settle. After this, it is additionally treated with an antiseptic and the finishing works– laying permanent floors, installing windows and doors, roof insulation, lining wet rooms, etc.

After shrinking, the joints between the logs can be decorated with jute rope to add attractiveness appearance walls Besides, jute rope between the crowns contributes to additional thermal insulation of the house.

If the installation technology is followed, a house made of rounded logs will successfully will pass the stage shrinkage without wall deformation.