Secrets of proper planting of tree peonies in open ground. Subtleties of propagation and flower care

This tall one lush flower came to us from China, where it has been grown for medicinal purposes since ancient times. It was called the “flower of the emperor” and was credited with magical properties. Tree peony (Paeonia x suffruticosa) or subshrub belongs to the species hybrid plants genus Peony, is a representative of the peony family. It is often classified as a group of varieties of hybrid origin. Sometimes a peony is called rose-shaped, but this is only a characteristic appearance flower, not a scientific classification.

Preparing for planting in open ground

Before planting in open ground, the roots are treated with anti-rot preparations, colloidal sulfur, or sprinkled with wood ash.

Landing dates

Different types of seedlings require different planting times.

Grafted peonies, which can be bought in specialized stores, have a powerful root system. It will ensure the development and growth of the bush, so the tree can be placed in a pot with soil for the summer and placed in the garden. In autumn the plant is transplanted to permanent place.

Planting dates are not so significant: early spring - autumn. Planting a tree peony in the fall is suitable for self-rooted seedlings, that is, ungrafted ones (they, as a rule, have a weak root system), sometimes it is carried out at the end of August, the season of intensive root growth. Considered the best autumn planting on a warm sunny day. Unstable weather with frosts in spring, unheated soil, and cold air will make planting unsuccessful.

The Chinese adhere to strict deadlines: one day before and one day after the equinox.

Choosing a location on the site

It is necessary to carefully select a permanent place that satisfies the growing conditions of the peony, so as not to replant it later.

• Protected from wind and direct sun rays relatively large space.
• Predominantly alkaline soil.
• Lack of other flowers and trees with a wide root system in the neighborhood.
• Avoid areas with close groundwater.

A sunny place is a guarantee rapid development and growth, shade will extend the flowering time and keep the flowers fresh.

Transplanting a peony is a lot of stress for it. They resort to it after 10 years, when there is no abundant flowering. At this time, it is advisable to transplant the bush to a new location.

Soil preparation

To grow a viable plant, you need to properly prepare the soil.

Tree peony loves fertile, loose soil with low acidity.

Sand is added to heavy soil and fed with fertilizers. Humus and peat are added to sandy soil. Clay soils require the addition of sand and humus. Acidity is reduced by liming with dolomite flour.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Planting and caring for tree peonies is no different from caring for any garden plants.

The success of cultivation largely depends on the correctly selected seedling. A seedling suitable for planting has:

• root system (not exposed) in volume equal to the size of its crown;
• several adventitious roots up to 5 cm long;
• two or three (up to five) developed buds;
• lack of foliage;
• up to 25 cm high.

Seedlings are distinguished: grafted, the scion is taken from a tree peony, the rootstock is the root of a herbaceous peony; self-rooted, grown from cuttings of a tree-like plant. The gardener must decide on the desired result: quickly, but not for long, or a long wait, which will be rewarded with many years of admiring the luxurious bush. These tables show the advantages and disadvantages of two types of planting material.

Description of landing

Correct landing is the key successful cultivation peony The sequence of operations is as follows:

• prepare a cone-shaped hole with a diameter and depth of at least 70 cm two weeks before planting;
• 6-7 days before planting, pour drainage (crushed stone, broken brick, sand), fill with a mixture of earth, compost with the addition of peat and dolomite flour, superphosphate and wood ash in the form of a mound;
• place the seedling on the surface of the mound, distributing the roots evenly;
• sprinkle with loose soil and lightly compact around;
• water (1-2 buckets of water);
• mulch so that the root collar is located at surface level, and the regenerating buds are 5-6 cm lower.

When planting several bushes, maintain a distance between them of at least 2 m.

Shallow planting will lead to exposed roots after winter and the death of the seedling, deep planting will lead to the absence of flowers.

Caring for tree peonies

Planting and caring for tree peonies is not very different from caring for any garden plant.

Caring for tree peonies includes:

• regular loosening of the soil;
• sufficient watering;
• weed removal;
• timely application of fertilizers required at different stages;
• installation of supports for large flowering bushes.

Selection and timing of fertilizer application

Proper and timely feeding of the plant allows you to achieve success in breeding tree peony:

• intensive growth;
• lush flowering;
• absence of disease.

When and what fertilizing is required is shown in the table:

Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers promote abundant flowering. Nitrogen and organic matter are necessary for growth. A young seedling (up to 2-2.5 years) is fed by foliar feeding, irrigating the bush with a spray bottle (30-40 g of mineral fertilizers per 10 liters of water) after each watering. For an adult plant, such feeding is carried out three times a year:

• when new shoots appear;
• during the period of kidney swelling;
• at the end of flowering.

Watering frequency and water quality requirements

At different stages of development, peony requires different amounts of water. The need for one bush is 6-8 liters twice a month, taking into account rains. Grooves up to 15 cm deep are made around the bush at a distance of 20-25 cm.

In hot summers, it is necessary to monitor the soil moisture and the type of bush, watering more often. The top layer of soil dries out two days after watering, then it is loosened to a depth of 5 cm, removing weeds. During flowering, when watering, avoid getting water on the flowers. In August they water less often, gradually reducing them to nothing. Water with a gentle stream (so as not to wash out the roots). Not recommended too cold water. Best time- evening or night.

Reasons and methods of pruning

Upon examination in early spring Before the beginning of the growing season, cut out damaged, dry and inward-growing branches. Old shoots are shortened by 15 cm. They cut out some of the buds on young shoots so that they grow better.

Branches damaged by frost should not be cut off immediately. They can come to life and the buds will bloom.

In the fall, you should not prune due to the formation of buds on last year's shoots. Pruning to form the bush is done once every few years in early spring. After a harsh winter, if the plant is frozen, to restore it, the entire above-ground part is cut out to the surface of the ground. Tree peony does not tolerate pruning well; it is enough to remove old and damaged branches.

Preparing for winter

Tree peony – frost-resistant plant; it continues to grow when cold days arrive. Therefore, special preparation for the winter season is needed. Watering should be stopped gradually. Prepare for winter by cutting off peony leaves (2/3 of the length) when the temperature is slightly above zero. With the onset of October, the branches are tied together and mulched with peat around the bush.

In the Moscow region, where there are severe frosts, plants are covered with branches and spruce branches of spruce and pine, giving them the shape of a hut. The top is tied with a rope. The shelter will protect against branch breakage and bud damage, protecting the plant from the thickness of the snow. When snowfalls begin, the hut is covered with snow. Young flexible bushes are bent to the ground, covered with leaves, and covered with spruce branches on top.

To prevent the bush from rotting, remove the shelter in time.

In areas with guaranteed abundant snow cover there is no need to cover.

Features of care during flowering and dormancy

Planting and caring for tree peony at all stages of development require attention, especially noteworthy is the flowering time (June), during this period the plant needs:

• feeding;
• abundant watering;
• loosening and mulching the soil.

Lush large bushes with flowers are supported by supports in the form of rings on racks.

When cutting flowers, it is necessary to leave the largest number of leaves on the bush; through them, food is supplied for the renewal buds laid for the next season. A large loss of leaves will lead to weakening of the bush. To achieve long-lasting flowering, faded flowers are removed without removing the leaves, which causes the appearance of new lateral buds.

Proper care during this period lays the conditions for abundant flowering and plant health for the next season.

The plant begins to prepare for the dormant period after flowering. At this time, for successful wintering, fertilizing is required (a mixture of wood ash and bone meal). Watering is gradually reduced, and eventually eliminated altogether. Only the leaves of the tree peony fall off; the stems overwinter.

Pests and diseases

Peony is disease resistant. Diseases are a consequence of improper care, infected seedlings and gardening tools. Usually weak and old bushes get sick.

The table shows the most common types of diseases, their manifestations and methods of treatment:

There are enemies of peony in the animal world. Let's consider what danger they pose and how to deal with them:

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to get a new plant.

Seeds

Reproduction by seeds is the most painstaking and long way:

1. take freshly collected seeds (from opened pods);
2. make a selection, excluding damaged and weak ones;
3. prepare containers for planting;
4. fill them with vermiculite or calcined sand;
5. moisturize well;
6. plant seeds at a shallow depth;
7. place in a dark, dry place, maintaining the temperature: +30 °C during the day, reducing to +15 °C at night for 35 days;
8. use a spray bottle to maintain a constant level of soil moisture;
9. after small roots appear, subject to cold stratification;
10. carefully replant the hatched seeds, transferring them to other containers with a mixture of soil and peat (humus);
11. Maintain the room temperature at 7-10°C.
12. wait for the leaves to appear, and then raise the temperature to 18-20°C;
13. regularly irrigate the soil, sometimes adding growth stimulants;
14. at the end of August, young plants can be planted in a permanent place.

The seeds that I had to buy in the store are usually dried out. It is necessary to pre-soak them in water for two days. Breeders use the production of new specimens from seeds to develop new varieties. Doing everything yourself at home is impractical.

Vaccination

The method is used when breeding rare varieties. Time: second half of August. The rootstock is the root of the herbaceous peony. The scion is obtained from a cutting of a tree peony with several buds, having previously sharpened its lower cut with a cone. A sharpened cutting is inserted into the cut on the root of the herbaceous peony, tightly wrapped with a special tape (film). Place it in a container with sawdust for a month, placing it in a slightly shaded place. When it takes root, transplant it into a container, deepening the bud 5 cm into the ground. Conditions at this time are hothouse. The process takes up to two years.

By layering

A simple and quite effective way:

• an intact woody shoot with buds located closer to the ground is cut;
• tilted towards the ground;
• fasten with a bracket, pressing it into the ground on both sides;
• sprinkle with soil;
• water regularly;
• the sprouted roots and shoots that appear are cut off;
• divided into parts with a spine on each.

It is better to use this method in May in order to separate it from the bush in the fall and plant it separately.

Cuttings

Cuttings are carried out in summer (June-August):

• take a plant with semi-lignified shoots and viable buds;
• Each shoot is separated with an oblique cut under the bud;
• shorten the sheet by two thirds;
• the cut surface is dipped in a root growth stimulator;
• planted in containers with a pre-prepared mixture of sand and peat so that the buds are in the ground;
• sprinkle the surface with sand;
• cover with film, maintaining humidity until autumn;
• in October they are transplanted into a greenhouse and kept there until spring.

Plants obtained by cuttings will produce flowers in the fifth year.

Dividing the bush

A convenient and effective way is to divide the bush. Held in August-September. To do this, you need to select older than five years:

• dig carefully;
• wash the roots from the ground;
• divide, leaving three shoots on each part;
• wash the scraps with a solution of potassium permanganate;
• sprinkle with fine wood ash;
• soak for half an hour in a clay mash;
• plant in the ground.

Varieties of tree peonies

Peony varieties are obtained by hybridization between species and within one species. There are groups:

• Sino-European (large double flower up to 25 cm);
• Japanese (single and semi-double flower 4-9 cm);
• Hybrid of yellow peony.

Peonies of the Chinese-European group, due to large heavy flowers (from white, light pink to bright pink), lose their decorative effect during the period wild flowering. The Japanese group is distinguished by light, small flowers (the range of colors is much wider), located high above the leaves on strong peduncles. The most popular are yellow peony hybrids with attractive flowers (range from yellow to chestnut with different color strokes). Descriptions of varieties of tree peonies are found among Tibetan monks about five centuries ago. More than a thousand varieties have been bred in China. Fewer than five hundred varieties are grown in other countries.

Most often, the attention of gardeners is attracted by Paeonia suffruticosa - tree peony (semi-shrub). The color and type of flowers are varied. Typical representatives are found in different areas Russia. Below are photos and descriptions of the varieties of tree peonies that are most popular among gardeners:

• "August" AugusteDessert. The flowers are lush, elegant looking, rich pink color with overflows and border. Long-term storage when cut.
• "Anastasia Sosnovets" Small bush. The flowers are not double and small in size (up to 11 cm). Petals in two rows, light wavy along the edge, fuchsia at the base.
• "Green Jade." The flowers are pink-shaped, original green, large, double. Flowering: April – early June. It has powerful flexible stems and is hardy.
• “Coral Altar” The inflorescences look like corals. The flowers are large, crown-shaped, white and pink. Blooms in June.

• “Maria” A delicate large flower, reminiscent of a bride’s dress, is located alone on a strong peduncle. Medium double, spherical in shape. Flowering: May – June. Resistant to diseases and low temperatures.
• “Sapphire” captivates the eye with its regal appearance. A large flower of pink shades with a crimson center. There are up to fifty inflorescences on the bush. Flowering: June.
• "Kiao Sisters" is one of the most unusual varieties. Attracts attention with two-color inflorescences: half of the flower is creamy-pink, the other is purple-red. The bush is tall - up to 1.3 m. It blooms in June.

They say about tree peonies: “They freeze, don’t grow, don’t bloom...”. Of course, in winters with extreme low temperatures they freeze, and if planted and cared for incorrectly, they do not grow or bloom. Like most others garden plants. But how good they are!

Before you try to grow a tree peony yourself, it is important to understand what kind of plant it is and what its specifics are. This is a bush with leaves that fall in autumn, the height of which, depending on the variety, varies in the range of 1-2 m. The stems have a dull brown color and are not susceptible to dying off in the fall.

The plant is characterized by the presence of openwork, feathery leaves, large inflorescences with a diameter of 12-20 cm. Flowers are:

• terry and simple;
• one- and two-color.

The number of buds on the bushes increases as the plant matures. The color appears in May–June and lasts from 2 to 3 weeks in a row. To understand what a garden tree peony looks like, pay attention to the photos below:

What tree peonies of different varieties look like: photos, names and descriptions

The homeland of these flowers is China. In this country, thanks to the work of breeders, a huge number of original variations of the plant have been artificially bred. The differences between them are in the shades of the buds, the degree of their terry, and the level of frost resistance. Below is information about some popular varieties tree peonies with photos and official names:

"Sapphire": called the king of gardens. The shrub reaches a height of 1.2 m. The leaves are large, the inflorescences large sizes(about 18 cm). Flowers appear in June. They have a pink tint, and the middle is colored crimson. Tree peony of this variety blooms very profusely - up to 50 fragrant buds appear on one bush.

"Deep blue Sea": this plant can grow about 1.5 m in height. Its specificity is that the castings remain green until mid-autumn. The color appears in mid-June and lasts about 14 days. The description of the tree peony inflorescences of this variety is as follows: diameter - about 17 cm, shade - purple-red, number on the bush - up to 50 pieces.

"Snow Pagoda": the bush can reach one and a half meters in height. It begins to bloom in mid-June. Fits well into various landscape compositions with contrasting shades. The description and photo of the flowers of this variety of tree peonies confirms what has been said. Appreciate for yourself the ideal beauty of these white and soft cream buds, reaching a diameter of 16 cm, capable of bringing a touch of freshness to any “green corner”.

"Kiao Sisters": grows up to 1.3 m in height. Blooms throughout June. Belongs to the category " the best varieties tree peonies" because it surprises with its unique color: one half of the bud is painted creamy white, and the other is purple-red. The inflorescences are large in diameter - at least 16 cm. Perfect option for single and group planting.

"Coral Altar": The height of the bush is about one and a half meters. The flowering period occurs in June. Make sure with the help of a photo that the tree peony of this variety really looks like coral: the flowers are crown-shaped, painted in salmon-white shades, large - have a 20-centimeter diameter.

"Primavera": is one of the most ancient varieties, the history of which has lasted for more than a century. It blooms in May (the name is translated from Italian as “spring”). Read the description of the tree peony and use the photo to see its uniqueness: 20-25 cm in diameter buds with a delicate color - a yellow core and white petals - slightly similar to daffodils.

Let the description of varieties of tree peonies presented above help you choose best decoration for your garden and will inspire you to create your own landscape masterpieces.

How to plant a decorative tree peony correctly

How and when exactly to plant a tree peony correctly is a question that interests every gardener who for the first time decides to diversify his plot with such ornamental plant. Planting time is determined by what type of seedling was purchased:

• with bare rhizome (i.e. with open roots);
• with a closed rhizome (growing in a container in the substrate).

Those seedlings with closed roots can be planted in the ground in both spring and autumn. When planted in spring, flowering occurs in the same season.

If the bark system is open, then tree-like peonies, like all herbaceous peonies, are planted in the soil in August - September. The only problem is that the seedlings go on sale not at this time, but in early spring or even February. Of course, you can buy peonies at this time. IN in capable hands they will survive until they are planted in the ground and take root. But plants from such seedlings most often get sick and lag behind in development, and color appears much later. This is due to the fact that on completely exposed roots, small roots intended for absorption of nutrients have not yet formed. For their formation, the shrub must remain in the ground at low “plus” temperatures. Therefore, it is worth purchasing tree peonies in winter and spring with an open root system only if a very rare variety has turned up.

If, nevertheless, you bought a seedling with a bare rhizome in the spring, before planting it in open ground tree peony, it is necessary to do the so-called “intermediate planting” - that is, in a container - and leave the flower until autumn:

1. It is necessary to take a container with a volume of at least 5 liters, and the bottom has holes for water drainage, put drainage in it, and then fill it with non-acidic soil. Then place the seedling in it.
2. In the spring months, it is recommended to grow tree peony seedlings on the balcony or in the basement, where the air temperature will be “plus”, but close to 0 °C. Watering will need to be light, only to prevent the soil from drying out. The seedling should not be allowed to grow, because suction roots will not be able to form.
3. When the shoots reach a height of 15 to 20 cm, the plant should be moved to a well-lit room, but equally cool. Growing a tree peony seedling requires the following care: watering must be kept at a minimum level, and if the first leaves appear, the peony should be immediately treated with Fevorit.
4. With the arrival of the summer season, it is recommended to take the seedling to a cool corner of the garden, but protected from drafts and direct sunlight.
5. During August - September it can be moved to a place of stable growth.

For this plant you need to choose places protected from the wind. The optimal planting for tree peony bushes is next to conifers; it is also advantageous from an aesthetic point of view. It is performed using the following technology:

The hole for the plant needs to be dug 14 days before planting so that the soil settles well.

Planting pit parameters: depth - 50 cm, diameter - 40 cm, distance between several holes - from 1 to 1.5 m.

The bottom should be lined with drainage made of expanded clay, sand or gravel, the optimal layer thickness of which is from 20 to 30 cm.

All buds that appear on the seedling must be removed. To understand how to properly trim a tree peony before planting, watch the video below.

It is necessary to pour some of the previously prepared soil onto the drainage. If the seedling had a closed rhizome, it is replanted with a clod of earth, and if it was open, the roots are carefully spread over the layer of soil and watered with 4 or 5 liters clean water. After the liquid has been absorbed, the rest of the soil is poured into the hole and compacted (not very tightly). You need to ensure that the root collar of the bush is level with the ground.

The final stage is mulching the plant using peat or humus while deepening the root collar by 4-5 cm.

You can immediately fertilize the bush by adding superphosphate to the soil mixture or liquid fertilizer to the water for irrigation. See the photos below to see how to plant a tree peony step by step:

How to grow tree peonies and how to care for them

When growing peonies, you must follow following rules. These flowers require abundant watering in the spring and just before flowering if the soil is poorly moist. Otherwise, moderate watering is necessary. During the summer, its intensity should be reduced, and in August it should be stopped completely, so that the wood has the opportunity to “prepare” for wintering.

Organizing behind a tree peony proper care, you should remember that it is not recommended to water it with very cold water. It should be kept in a container where it can pre-warm up in the sun. You need to pour the liquid in portions, so it can reach the root system and not spread on the surface of the earth.

Another important aspect of growing a plant is timely and proper feeding. In order for it to give abundant color, fertilizers should be added once every 12 days: starting from April and until the color falls. Both when planting a tree peony, and for further care After this, ash, mineral additives with predominant potassium and phosphorus components, and bone meal are widely used as fertilizers. This will also prevent the development of diseases in the plant.

In general, diseases do not bypass peonies. The biggest nuisance is rot of the roots and leaves. At the first signs (spots on leaves, sporulation, bronze color of leaves, etc.), it is necessary to apply fungicides.

Every plant grower who cares about the condition of his garden is interested in how to care for the tree peony, preparing it for winter. This is how things work with the wintering of tree peonies. Young plants that are completely covered by snow are not afraid of anything. In principle, when there is a good snowy winter with moderate temperatures, tree peonies do not suffer. But in severe frosts, parts of the plant that are above the level of snow cover may freeze. Therefore, in October, it is recommended to mulch the soil with a bucket of peat or the same amount of humus per bush, cut off the leaves of the plant by two-thirds of the length and cover the bushes with special material, leaving holes for air to enter. A shelter for large bushes is constructed as follows: a hut is made from sticks, which is wrapped in lutrasil or covered with spruce branches.

In mild winters, plants under shelters may be affected fungal diseases. You can do without shelter, because truly critical winters for tree peonies happen once every ten years.

In addition, tree peony bushes sometimes break under the weight of snow. Therefore, it is better to tie large specimens. The photo clearly demonstrates how to properly care for and tie up a tree peony:

If at the end of winter there are frozen buds on the bushes, then you should not remove them immediately. If at the beginning of June they cannot recover, then it is worth fulfilling those that have frozen until the first active bud. As evidenced by the photo below, tree peonies, planted and cared for correctly, produce abundant color with lush buds - appreciate their splendor and unsurpassed quality.

Methods for propagating peonies by seeds and cuttings

Despite the fact that the seedlings of this luxurious plant are inexpensive, many amateur gardeners practice propagation of the tree peony growing on their site on their own. There are several ways to carry out this procedure:

1. By seeds: This option is often used by breeders, since seedlings require long time. The seeds must undergo double stratification, i.e., spend two winters in a row in the ground, in the natural environment. After the first wintering, their root system is formed, and only after the second winter do stems and leaves appear. The first color appears 4 or 5 years after sowing. If a species tree peony grows in your garden, in order to propagate it by seeds, it is enough to leave a few seed heads, allowing the seeds from them to pour out into the ground after final ripening. You can pre-collect them and sow them in the area of ​​the site in which you need them. In any case, planting sites should be marked and watered regularly during periods of drought, despite the lack of seedlings.
2. By cuttings: this option also considered simple, but not very effective. The procedure should begin in late spring - early summer. It is necessary to select parts of the shoot that have a bud and a leaf and are only half woody, cut them off and place them in a root solution for a couple of hours. Then you should plant the cuttings in a box filled with a mixture of sand and peat in a 1:1 ratio, covered with film. Planting depth – 1.5 cm, angle – 45 ̊. Rooting will occur only by mid-autumn. At this time, it is necessary to transplant them into a greenhouse for wintering. A tree peony, propagated by cuttings, should be planted in open ground in the spring. Color will appear around the 5th year.

How to propagate tree peonies by division, layering and grafting

It is fashionable to propagate peonies in other ways:

By dividing the bush: this method is on the list of the least complicated and most effective. But if the choice falls on it, you will have to sacrifice one mother bush, “making” several small plants from one large one. It is recommended to choose bushes for this purpose that are no more than 6 years old; the best option is a 4-5 year old plant with at least 7 independent stems. Before propagating a tree peony by dividing a bush, you need to cut it to 10-15 cm in height, then dig it up, wash off the soil from the roots, shake it thoroughly, remove rotten and very old roots. Next, you need to cut the rhizome into several sections so that the root of each of them has a length of about 10 cm or more, and the stem has from 3 to 5 buds. It is recommended to treat all cut areas on the rhizome with a solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkle with a mixture of charcoal and colloidal sulfur in a 1:1 ratio. The cuttings prepared in this way should be immediately planted in the ground and you can expect flowering within two years.

By layering: the named method is also among the simplest, like all the previous ones, but at the same time it is unproductive. You need to add layering in late spring, before flowering begins. The shoot that is closest to the soil is suitable for this procedure. At the very bottom you need to make a small cut on it, which is treated with root. After this, the layer must be leaned against the soil and covered with a 10-centimeter layer of soil. The gardener's task is to carefully ensure that the soil does not dry out. Rooting will take place somewhere closer to September - then it will be possible to cut it off from mother bush and transplant into the selected area of ​​the garden. The propagation of tree peony by layering is clearly shown in the video:

Vaccinations: This option is the most troublesome and involves a lot of time. Most often, the rootstock is the roots of herbaceous peonies, and the scion is the young shoots of tree-like peonies. It is necessary to sharpen the scion into a wedge, and cut a hole of the required shape into the rootstock. You can also graft from the side. To do this, you need to cut both the rootstock and the scion at a slight angle, and then connect them and firmly secure them with plastic or electrical tape (the adhesive surface is outward). When wondering how to grow a grafted tree peony, you need to take into account that the plants grow together within 1 month, then they should be grown in a greenhouse for 2 years.

Since tree peonies are propagated by grafting, cuttings, layering, seeds and dividing the bush, any gardener has the opportunity to choose the most suitable one for himself. convenient way or experiment with them all.

The use of tree peonies in landscape design

When growing tree peony, those who understand landscape design gardeners - amateurs and professionals - use the plant both as an integral component of original “living” flower arrangements, and as a bright, self-sufficient single decoration of their own plot.

If you want to plant one bush, you should take into account that it will look most successful in a spacious, open area of ​​the garden area. You can place low, small, discreet flowers around it, or you can sow the entire lawn with decorative grass. See what a single tree peony looks like on a lush green “carpet” in the photo.

If you are thinking about how to organize group planting to decorate your site, then pay attention to the recommendations of experts:

Can be used to create floral garden composition at the same time several varieties of tree peony, planting them in one row. They will make an original lush hedge.

A very popular method of alternating them with other shrubs about 1.5 m high is,. How luxurious the tree peony looks surrounded by these flowers, look at the photos below.

Peonies look gorgeous in the “heart” of the site if flowers are additionally planted along its edges in even rows, the shades of which represent the same color palette, the same as the shade of peonies.

To create flower beds, it is important to use plants whose flowering period coincides with the period of color appearance in the tree peony. If the latter blooms in the spring, they can form an ideal tandem with it, and if in June, then nigella, nasturtiums, etc. will be excellent “neighbors” for it. Appreciate the uniqueness and beauty created by the tree peony, called “ imperial flower", in landscape design in the photo below.

The most common diseases of peonies are gray rot (botrytis), rust and ring mosaic of leaves.

Peony diseases and the fight against them: photos

Below are common diseases of peonies. Photo of the affected plant and necessary treatment.

Gray mold (pathogen - Botrytis paeonie, B. cinerea). This is one of the most dangerous and most common diseases of peonies. In our floriculture zone, gray rot affects stems, buds, leaves, and the underground part of the plant. Young shoots are most often affected in the spring during the regrowth period. A gray coating appears at the base of the stem, then the stem here darkens, breaks and falls. Large brown spreading spots appear at the tips of the leaves. The leaves become deformed and dry out. Small buds turn black and also dry out. Larger buds open halfway, only on one side, the edges of the blossoming petals turn brown and dry out, and the flowers turn out disfigured. The disease develops especially actively in damp and cold spring. During the budding period, gray rot most often affects the upper part of the stems, buds and leaves.

Fungal spores overwinter on plant debris, peony rhizomes, in the top layer of soil near the bush. The disease develops more intensely in severe, clay soils and in areas with close groundwater, in dense, poorly ventilated plantings, as well as in places flooded by spring melt water. The development of the disease is promoted by excess nitrogen fertilizers. Early-flowering forms of officinalis peony and many hybrids are especially strongly affected. If the infection is severe, the entire plant may die.

Control measures. The fight against the disease is carried out in two directions. The first direction involves proper agricultural technology: unthickened plantings; regular loosening of the soil; avoiding overfeeding with mineral fertilizers; removal and burning in the fall, immediately after pruning, of all plant residues and above-ground parts of peony bushes on the site; drainage of the site in case of close groundwater. Another direction is preventive measures to destroy fungal spores using chemical antifungal drugs - fungicides. The use of fungicides does not replace a set of agrotechnical measures, but only complements it. With poor agricultural practices, fungicides do not protect against the disease, since weakened plants, as a rule, are not able to resist the disease.

Exists a large number of fungicidal drugs. Most of them are toxic and require great care when used. Only the least toxic preparations can be used in garden plots. At the moment of germination, fungal spores are quite easily vulnerable even to non-toxic fungicides - copper oxychloride, copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, etc. The only condition for their successful use is compliance with the exact processing time.

Usually, two or three times preventive treatment is carried out with an interval of 10-12 days: the first is watering the bushes with one of the fungicide solutions at the beginning of the growing season when buds appear above the ground (2-3 liters of solution per bush); the second and third - spraying the plants with one of the fungicide solutions. Subsequently, when gray rot appears on the stems, they are immediately cut out to the rhizome and the affected area is filled with one of the fungicides (1 liter of solution per bush).

Least toxic fungicides:

copper sulfate (50-70 g per 10 liters of water);

copper oxychloride (60-70 g per 10 liters of water);

colloidal sulfur (60-100 g per 10 liters of water);

Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate and 75 g of quicklime); the components are dissolved separately, then a solution of copper sulfate is poured into the lime solution and the mixture is topped up with water to 10 liters;

Burgundy liquid - prepared in the same way as Bordeaux liquid, but instead of lime, soda is taken in the same amount;

potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) - 3 g per 10 l. water;

lime-sulfur decoction (200 g of sulfur and 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water); Quicklime is slaked in a small amount of water and then sulfur powder is added. Add water to 10 liters. and boil for 1 hour; the resulting stock solution is diluted before use in a ratio of 200 g of solution per 10 liters. water.

Good results in preventing the fight against gray mold are obtained by spraying peony plantings in the fall with a solution of nitrafen at a concentration of 200 g per 10 liters. water after cutting and burning the above-ground parts of plants. Of the methods of plant protection that are harmless to humans and animals, amateurs most often use treatment with garlic infusion (3-5 g of crushed garlic per 1 liter of water).

A dangerous fungal disease, very common in some years. After flowering (in the middle zone - the first half of July), yellowish-brown spots with a purple tint appear on the leaves. On back side mushroom spore pads are visible on the leaves. The spores are carried by the wind and infect new plants.

The disease spreads quickly - in two to three days, especially in humid, warm weather, peony bushes can be affected over large areas. Leaves curl and dry out. The accumulation of nutrients in old roots and the growth of new ones stop, which negatively affects the formation and development of renewal buds, and, consequently, the flowering of the next year. Plants are weakened, and the likelihood of them being affected by other fungal diseases, in particular gray rot, increases.

The fungus, the causative agent of rust, develops in the second half of summer on pine trees, in the branches of which the mycelium persists and overwinters. For the prevention of rust, as well as other fungal diseases, the complex of agrotechnical measures given above is of great importance. Plants are sprayed prophylactically with fungicides after flowering at intervals of seven to ten days, as well as immediately when signs of disease appear. You can use the fungicides listed above to prevent gray mold. Such preventive spraying in combination with a set of agrotechnical measures can minimize plant damage. At the first sign of disease, leaves should be cut off and burned.

According to many years of observations, various varieties peonies are affected differently by rust. All varieties can be divided into three groups according to their tendency to be affected by this disease:

severely affected by rust (massive damage to leaves, wilting of the entire bush - Albatre, Graziella, Duchess de Nemours, Marcella, Cornelia Shaylor, Phase Top, all forms of officinalis;

moderately affected varieties (presence of heel, damage to a small number of leaves) - Argentina, Anchantress, Iceberg, Akron, Blush Queen, White Sail, Gladys Hodson, Dr. Bretour, Inspector Lavsrn, Lady Kate, Le Signe, Mazere Choice, Nadezhda, Nick Shaylor , Torch Song, Felix Supreme;

not affected - A. E. Kundred, Amalia Olson, Arkady Gaidar, Alice, Anne Cousins, Ballerina, Belle Doisier, Beat Red, Boomer Sooner, Bowl of Cream, Beat Ben, Varenka, Vechernyaya Moscow, Gardenia, Glory Hallelujah, J.C. , Dixie, John G. Widgell, Dandy Dan, Ensign Mariarty, Ze Fleece, Kansas, Carl Rosenfield, Casablanca, Lillian Gumm, Linnaeus, Lady Orchid, Marilla Beauty, Margaret Clark, Mont Blanc, Myrtle Gentry, Miss America, Monsieur Jules Ely, Mary Brand, Neon, Opost Desser, Orlando Robert, Otens Red, Memory of Paustovsky, Memory of Gagarin, Peppermint, Pink Lemonade, Victory, Princess Margaret, Rayona Line, Red Red Rose, Red Kapit, Red Dandy, Raspberry Sunday, Sarah Bernhardt, Seedling. 310/59, Sinbad, Solange, Sir John Franklin, Solveig, Walter Msins, Felix Crusse, Festiva Maxima, Philippe Rivoire, Florence Ellis, Evangein Newhall, Helen Cowley, Edwin C. Bills.

Using the above list, amateur flower growers may not carry out preventive rust spraying of all peony plantings, but select only those varieties that are susceptible to this disease, or exclude such varieties from the collection. Most varieties of domestic selection are not affected by rust or are affected to an insignificant extent.

Ring mosaic of leaves (causative agent - Paeonia virus). Viral disease. Light green and yellowish stripes, rings, and half-rings form on the leaves between the veins, which reduces the decorativeness of the bushes, but does not reduce the growth and abundance of flowering. The disease can spread when using the same knife to cut flowers or cut stems from diseased and healthy plants without intermediate heat disinfection of the tool. Both diseased and healthy shoots grow on the bushes at the same time. During the period of bud dissolution, diseased shoots should be cut down to the rhizome and burned. In case of severe damage or repeated manifestation of the disease, the plant is destroyed entirely.

Brown spot, or septoria (pathogen - Septoria macrospora). The disease appears on leaves in June - July in the form of bilateral brownish-brown rounded or elongated spots with a darker rim. At first, single spots appear, then they merge. First of all, the lower, older leaves are affected, then the disease spreads higher up the stem, and all the leaves can dry out. The disease weakens the plant, affecting its winter hardiness and flowering next year.

Control measures

Brown spot, or cladosparia (pathogen: Cladosporium paeoniae). The disease manifests itself in the form of large brown spots, growing, they merge and cover the entire leaf, which looks like it is burned. Elongated red-brown spots form on young shoots. The entire stem darkens and becomes covered with smoky sporulation of the fungus.

Control measures: spraying with one of the preparations: 0.6-0.7% solution of copper oxychloride, 1-2% solution of Bordeaux mixture or 0.2-0.3% foundationazole. The first spraying is immediately after flowering. As needed - every 10-12 days.

Peonies are affected by it in late summer. A rare cobweb coating forms on the upper part of the leaves. Fortunately, this disease on peonies does not cause much harm and does not occur too often.

Control measures: It is possible to spray plants when the first signs of disease appear with a solution of soda ash and soap.

Initially, small brown spots with a dark purple rim form on the leaves. Later, the spots increase in size and become round or oblong, lighter in the center and covered with numerous convex dark dots. When the disease develops strongly, it causes premature drying of the leaves.

Control measures: the main measure has always been prevention - eliminating the causes of the disease. Therefore, do not plant peonies on soils that are too heavy, overly moist and highly acidic; do not allow dense plantings that impede air circulation; cut out diseased parts of the plant in a timely manner and trim off faded flowers, preventing them from falling onto the leaves; in winter, cut peonies to ground level and remove any plant debris; systematically carry out preventive spraying of plants at least three times - at the beginning of shoot growth and the appearance of leaves, during budding and after flowering with one of the preparations: 0.6-0.7% copper oxychloride solution, 1-2% Bordeaux solution liquids or 0.2-0.3% foundationazole.

The most common diseases of peonies are gray mold (botrytis), rust and ring mosaic of leaves.
Gray rot(causative agent - Botrytis paeonie, B. cinerea). This is one of the most dangerous and most common diseases of peonies. In our floriculture zone, gray rot affects stems, buds, leaves, and the underground part of the plant. Young shoots are most often affected in the spring during the regrowth period. A gray coating appears at the base of the stem, then the stem here darkens, breaks and falls. Large brown spreading spots appear at the tips of the leaves. The leaves become deformed and dry out. Small buds turn black and also dry out. Larger buds open halfway, only on one side, the edges of the blossoming petals turn brown and dry out, and the flowers turn out disfigured. The disease develops especially actively in damp and cold spring. During the budding period, gray rot most often affects the upper part of the stems, buds and leaves.
Fungal spores overwinter on plant debris, peony rhizomes, in the top layer of soil near the bush. The blight develops more intensively on heavy, clayey soils and in areas with close groundwater, in dense, poorly ventilated plantings, as well as in places flooded by spring meltwater. The development of the disease is promoted by excess nitrogen fertilizers. Early-flowering forms of officinalis peony and many hybrids are especially strongly affected. If the infection is severe, the entire plant may die.
The fight against the disease is carried out in two directions. The first direction involves proper agricultural technology: unthickened plantings; regular loosening of the soil; avoiding overfeeding with mineral fertilizers; removal and burning in the fall, immediately after pruning, of all plant residues and above-ground parts of peony bushes on the site; drainage of the site in case of close groundwater. Another direction is preventive measures to destroy fungal spores using chemical antifungal drugs - fungicides. The use of fungicides does not replace a set of agrotechnical measures, but only complements it. With poor agricultural practices, fungicides do not protect against the disease, since weakened plants, as a rule, are not able to resist the disease.
There are a large number of fungicidal drugs. Most of them are toxic and require great care when used. Only the least toxic preparations can be used in garden plots. At the moment of germination, fungal spores are quite easily vulnerable even to non-toxic fungicides - copper oxychloride, copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, etc. The only condition for their successful use is compliance with the exact processing time.
Usually, two or three times preventive treatment is carried out with an interval of 10-12 days: the first is watering the bushes with one of the fungicide solutions at the beginning of the growing season when buds appear above the ground (2-ZL solution per bush); the second and third - spraying the plants with one of the fungicide solutions. Subsequently, when gray rot appears on the stems, they are immediately cut out to the rhizome and the affected area is filled with one of the fungicides (1 liter of solution per bush).
Least toxic fungicides:
copper sulfate (50-70 g per 10 liters of water);
copper oxychloride (60-70 g per 10 liters of water);
colloidal sulfur (60-100 g per 10 liters of water);
Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate and 75 g of quicklime); the components are dissolved separately, then a solution of copper sulfate is poured into the lime solution and the mixture is topped up with water to 10 liters;
Burgundy liquid - prepared in the same way as Bordeaux liquid, but instead of lime, soda is taken in the same amount;
potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) - 3 g per 10 liters of water;
lime-sulfur decoction (200 g of sulfur and 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water); Quicklime is slaked in a small amount of water and then sulfur powder is added. Add water to 10 liters and boil for 1 hour; the resulting mother solution is diluted before use in the ratio of 200 g of solution per 10 liters of water.
Good results in preventing the fight against gray mold are obtained by spraying peony plantings in the fall with a solution of nitrafen at a concentration of 200 g per 10 liters of water after pruning and burning the above-ground parts of the plants. Of the methods of plant protection that are harmless to humans and animals, amateurs most often use treatment with garlic infusion (3-5 g of ground garlic per 1 liter of water).
Rust. A dangerous fungal disease, very common in some years. After flowering (in the middle zone - the first half of July), yellowish-brown spots with a purple tint appear on the leaves. Fungal spore pads are visible on the back of the leaves. The spores are carried by the wind and infect new plants.
The disease spreads quickly - in two to three days, especially in humid, warm weather, peony bushes can be affected over large areas. The leaves curl and dry out. The accumulation of nutrients in old roots and the growth of new ones stop, which negatively affects the formation and development of renewal buds, and, consequently, the flowering of the next year. Plants are weakened, and the likelihood of them being affected by other fungal diseases, in particular gray rot, increases.
The fungus, the causative agent of rust, develops in the second half of summer on pine trees, in the branches of which the mycelium persists and overwinters. For the prevention of rust, as well as other fungal diseases, the complex of agrotechnical measures given above is of great importance. Plants are sprayed prophylactically with fungicides after flowering at intervals of seven to ten days, as well as immediately when signs of disease appear. You can use the fungicides listed above to prevent gray mold. Such preventive spraying in combination with a set of agrotechnical measures can minimize plant damage. At the first sign of disease, leaves should be cut off and burned.
According to many years of observations, different varieties of peonies are affected differently by rust. All varieties can be divided into three groups according to their tendency to be affected by this disease:
severely affected by rust (massive damage to leaves, wilting of the entire bush - Albatre, Graziella, Duchess de Nemours, Marcella, Cornelia Shaylor, Phase Top, all forms of officinalis;
moderately affected varieties (presence of heel, damage to a small number of leaves) - Argentina, Anchantress, Iceberg, Akron, Blush Queen, White Sail, Gladys Hodson, Dr. Bretour, Inspector Lavsrn, Lady Kate, Le Signe, Mazere Choice, Nadezhda, Nick Shaylor , Torch Song, Felix Supreme;
not affected - A. E. Kundred, Amalia Olson, Arkady Gaidar, Alice, Anne Cousins, Ballerina, Belle Doisier, Beat Red, Boomer Sooner, Bowl of Cream, Beat Ben, Varenka, Vechernyaya Moscow, Gardenia, Glory Hallelujah, J.C. , Dixie, John G. Widgell, Dandy Dan, Ensign Mariarty, Ze Fleece, Kansas, Carl Rosenfield, Casablanca, Lillian Gumm, Linnaeus, Lady Orchid, Marilla Beauty, Margaret Clark, Mont Blanc, Myrtle Gentry, Miss America, Monsieur Jules Ely, Mary Brand, Neon, Opost Desser, Orlando Robert, Otens Red, Memory of Paustovsky, Memory of Gagarin, Peppermint, Pink Lemonade, Victory, Princess Margaret, Rayona Line, Red Red Rose, Red Kapit, Red Dandy, Raspberry Sunday, Sarah Bernhardt, Seedling. 310/59, Sinbad, Solange, Sir John Franklin, Solveig, Walter Msins, Felix Crusse, Festiva Maxima, Philippe Rivoire, Florence Ellis, Evangein Newhall, Helen Cowley, Edwin C. Bills.
Using the above list, amateur flower growers may not carry out preventive rust spraying of all peony plantings, but select only those varieties that are susceptible to this disease, or exclude such varieties from the collection. Most varieties of domestic selection are not affected by rust or are affected to an insignificant extent.
Ring mosaic of leaves(causative agent - Paeonia virus). Viral disease. Light green and yellowish stripes, rings, and half-rings form on the leaves between the veins, which reduces the decorativeness of the bushes, but does not reduce the growth and abundance of flowering. The disease can spread when using the same knife to cut flowers or cut stems from diseased and healthy plants without intermediate heat disinfection of the tool. Both diseased and healthy shoots grow on the bushes at the same time. During the period of bud dissolution, diseased shoots should be cut down to the rhizome and burned. In case of severe damage or repeated manifestation of the disease, the plant is destroyed entirely.
Brown spot or septoria(causative agent - Septoria macrospora). The disease appears on leaves in June - July as bilateral brown-brown rounded or elongated spots with a darker rim. At first, single spots appear, then they merge. First of all, the lower, older leaves are affected, then the disease spreads higher up the stem, and all the leaves can dry out. The disease weakens the plant, affecting its winter hardiness and flowering next year.

Brown spot, or cladosparia.(causative agent - Cladosporium paeoniae). The disease manifests itself in the form of large brown spots, growing, they merge and cover the entire leaf, which looks like it is burned. Elongated red-brown spots form on young shoots. The entire stem darkens and becomes covered with smoky sporulation of the fungus.
CONTROL MEASURES: spraying with one of the preparations: 0.6-0.7% solution of copper oxychloride, 1-2% solution of Bordeaux mixture or 0.2-0.3% foundationazole. The first spraying is immediately after flowering. As needed - every 10-12 days.
Powdery mildew. Peonies are affected by it in late summer. A rare cobweb coating forms on the upper part of the leaves. Fortunately, this disease on peonies does not cause much harm and does not occur too often. CONTROL MEASURES: it is possible to spray plants when the first signs of disease appear with a solution of soda ash and soap.
Phyllosticosis. Initially, small brown spots with a dark purple rim form on the leaves. Later, the spots increase in size, become round or oblong, become lighter in the center and become covered with numerous convex dark dots. When the disease develops strongly, it causes premature drying of the leaves.
CONTROL MEASURES: the main measure has always been prevention - eliminating the causes of the disease. Therefore, do not plant peonies on soils that are too heavy, overly moist and highly acidic; do not allow dense plantings that impede air circulation; cut out diseased parts of the plant in a timely manner and trim off faded flowers, preventing them from falling onto the leaves; in winter, cut peonies to ground level and remove any plant debris; systematically carry out preventive spraying of plants at least three times - at the beginning of shoot growth and the appearance of leaves, during budding and after flowering with one of the preparations: 0.6-0.7% copper oxychloride solution, 1-2% Bordeaux solution liquids or 0.2-0.3% foundationazole.