Racks for drywall without hangers. Installation of a frame under plasterboard

Quite often, in the process of arranging a new home, people have to build interior partitions, carry out redevelopment in the apartment or level the walls. The ideal material for this is plasterboard. With its help you can perform almost any interior work, without resorting to the participation of third-party masters. However, not all people’s work goes smoothly; sometimes certain difficulties arise in cases where they have to carry out installation of a profile for drywall, this is the most difficult stage. Therefore, we will examine this issue in detail in our lesson.

Tools for profile installation work

Basic list necessary tools, as a rule, includes a tape measure, scissors for cutting metal, a square, a rope, a hammer drill, a level, a screwdriver and a stationery knife. Depending on a particular situation, this list may expand, and vice versa.

When installing the frame, use sealing tape. It is placed between the profiles and the surface to which they will be attached.

Installation of the structure on the walls

For clarity, let’s consider installing profiles on one wall. You need to start with markings that will help determine the unevenness of the wall. It can be piled inside the room, or vice versa. Let's assume it's stuffed inside. Now you need to choose a level to make the mark; most often it is the ceiling. The first horizontal profile is marked on it. If you plan to insulate the walls, then it is better to retreat about five centimeters from the walls. If insulation is not planned, then the indentations should be minimal. The upper profile anchor is attached along the intended line. Then the lower horizontal profile is measured using it. This can be done using a two-meter building level or plumb line. After marking, the profile is secured with dowels and screws. Thus, we get two sewn horizontal profiles, one on the ceiling, the other on the floor. Now you can start working on the side profiles. They are pre-measured and, inserted into the guides, fixed with dowels to the wall. The result should be an even square of profiles.

Next, the lower profile guides are divided into sixty-centimeter sections (the standard step for attaching plasterboard sheets). After this, vertical profiles are inserted into them directly opposite the intended locations and fixed from below. Then, using a level, check the accuracy of the fastenings and screw them onto the upper guide profile. Now that the installation of the profile under the plasterboard is complete, you can begin to sew on the sheets.

There are only two sizes of profiles for plasterboard sheets. The first is used to form a plane, and the second is used to construct a frame. Separate them in English letters D and W.

Installation of the structure on the ceiling

The installation of a profile for plasterboard on the ceiling begins with the installation of guides on the wall. The width of the step from the ceiling directly depends on the insulation material. If insulation is not required, the indentation is carried out in accordance with the markings. The horizontal profile guides are strengthened along the entire perimeter of the room to form a closed square. After this, the suspensions are fastened with anchors (special ceiling wedges) over the entire area of ​​the ceiling in full accordance with the markings. They need to be placed as often as possible, because the density of the structure depends on this.

The final stage of work involves the installation of transverse profiles, which are inserted into the profile guides and secured with hangers. The step width is sixty centimeters, that is, every sixty centimeters a transverse profile must be attached. During the fixation process, you need to use a level to check the evenness of the profiles and only then proceed with their residual fastening.

In fact, if you follow the recommendations described above and are attentive, even outright beginners should not have any difficulties during the installation of a profile under drywall. In order to visualize the entire technological process, watch the installation of a profile for drywall video. We hope that this lesson was useful to you. Good luck with your renovation!

Installation of a profile for drywall video

Standard swing doors, which are almost always installed in apartments and private houses, can cause many problems, especially when it comes to small apartments. For their normal operation, a certain amount of free space is required, which can be used with greater benefit.

To increase the free space in the apartment, instead of standard design can be installed sliding doors. Next we will look at how to install sliding doors yourself.

The sliding doors moving along the wall are equipped with a modern design sliding mechanism, which works silently, softly and reliably.

Sliding door design

Structurally, sliding doors consist of a leaf and a frame, which, depending on the type of mechanism used, can be placed at the top or bottom.

The canvas moves on rollers along a guide; it can move along the wall or hide in a special niche.

There are 2 main types of sliding structures:

1. Rollers are installed on the top door leaf. In this case, the frame consists only of the top rail. In this case, you have the opportunity to use any flooring and, if necessary, replace it without dismantling the sliding doors.
2. The rollers are mounted on the bottom of the doors.

   In this case, a guide bar is placed on the floor, which also acts as a threshold.

Sliding example interior design shown in Fig. 1.

Preparatory work

Picture 1.

An example of a mechanism for a sliding interior design.

As an example, we will consider the process of installing a single-leaf sliding door, which is the simplest and most common design. To do the work yourself, you will need the following tools and materials:

• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• sliding mechanism elements;
• wooden beam;
• pencil.

The first step is to mark for installing the guides.

To do this, you can use two methods:

1. Using a tape measure, measure the height of the leaf from the floor, adding 1.5-2 cm to the resulting value for the gap between the door and the floor, as well as the height of the assembled roller device and guide. Then marks are placed on the wall along which a horizontal line is drawn.
2. The door leaf is placed against the opening, a lining of the required thickness is placed under it, after which a horizontal line is drawn along the upper cut of the door.

   From this line the height of the guide and carriage is adjusted upward.

To ensure that the sliding doors do not move apart on their own after installation, it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the drawn line using a building level.

Installation of a sliding structure

Figure 2.

Installing a sliding door track.

The next step installation work is the installation of the guide. To do this, along the marked line, a wooden beam 50x50 mm is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws, the length of which should be 2 times greater than the width of the doorway (Fig. 2). The beam must be pressed as tightly as possible against the wall, for which you need to use the required number of screws. After the beam is secured, check again that it is horizontal.

To determine the location of the mounting holes, divide the thickness of the door leaf by 2, and add the required distance of the doors to the wall (about 4 mm) to the resulting value.

Before finally fixing the rail, make sure that there is enough free space between the door and the wall for it to move freely.

No matter how curved the wall is, the guide mechanism must be fixed strictly in a straight line without the slightest bend.

After installing the guide rail, assemble the roller mechanism, connect to it the fasteners with which it will be fixed to the doors, and insert the resulting structure into the guide.

Attach staples to the upper edge of the door, stepping back approximately 5 mm from each edge of the door. The number of staples must correspond to the number of rollers.

After this, you can proceed to installing the carriages to the canvas. Fastening is carried out in such a way that the recesses on the brackets into which the nuts will be tightened are directed towards the wall. Next, place the door against the guide, align fastener right carriage with a hole on the right bracket.

Installation of profiles for drywall - simple assembly of complex structures

Secure the brackets to the roller mechanism bolts. To securely fix the door leaf to the floor at one of the walls, a bottom rail is attached. After this, it is inserted into the groove, which is located at the bottom end of the door.

At the last stage of installation work, it is necessary to screw all door fittings, masking decorative strips and finishing door slopes to your taste.

Types of dry wall profiles: dimensions and purpose

Gypsum boards are effectively used in the final process, but their attachment is impossible without a special metal frame profile. As an alternative, special glue can be used, but the reliability of the structure is ensured by the profiles.

Various types of these fasteners are used in the manufacture various forms skeleton.

Types of profiles for plasterboard boards

The classification of metal profiles for drywall installation can be based on their functional purpose, design and use.

Profiles vary by location:

In addition, there are varieties in the classification of GCR profiles:

• Airplane cover
• Profile for partition

Types of plasterboard profiles depending on the shape:

• apartment
• angular
• As a channel

The material used for the production of metal profiles for drywall is steel and usually galvanized.

Galvanized zinc or thick sheet metal can be used for various functional profile purposes.

More detailed description profiles gives insight into the purposes of these structural elements drywall systems.

Profiles for creating a base frame

In this application:

• Lead profiles are marked UD.

  Such profiles are used to form the structure for the future structure plasterboard boards. Since the entire system, including bulkheads and dry wall, is attached to this profile, it is made from a thicker grade of steel. This type of profile determines the parameters of the future perimeter of the entire structure

• Carrier profiles labeled CD.

  Installing drywall profiles: step-by-step instructions

  This profile type is directly linked to UD frame profiles and performs the transfer function according to its name. Since they are also attached to plasterboard panels, they must be made of galvanized steel sheet

• Developed profiles.

  For technological features this type of profile is equal to the two previous types, but it has reinforced the perforation with the presence of several holes and pieces.

  This allows it to bend in the desired direction and form a frame of complex configurations

Section Profiles

Same classification including

• The profiles were focused on the UW design, intended to create the structure of the skin. With its usage, configuration and partitions
• The CW tag is an element that strengthens the entire structure.

  Drywall sheets can be installed on both sides

Profiles of profiles of different categories

Since each profile type has its own functional purpose, the sizes and shapes of the profiles are also different.

• Leading UD profiles are, for example, sizes 0.25-0.28×300 - 400 cm.

  Profile thickness is 0.5-0.7 mm

• CD support profiles have dimensions of 0.25-0.28 × 300 cm, in both cases also 0.28 × 400 cm, shelf height is 0.5-0.6 mm

The weight of bearings and guide housing profiles is 1.2-1.8 kg for a length of 3 m and 1.6-2.4 kg for a length of 4 m, depending on the thickness of the steel.

Partition profiles are usually wider.

Their sizes:

• UW brand profiles have a width of 50.75.100 mm. The length of these profiles is 3000 mm or 4000 mm. The weight of each profile reaches 2.19-3.88 kg, depending on other dimensions
• CW rack profiles, depending on their purpose, have the following dimensions:
  • 48.8x3000x50
  • 73.8x3000x50
  • 98.8h3000h50

Profiles of this type can be designed with a length of 4000 mm and the same width and height parameters.

In all cases, the thickness of the metals is at least 0.5-6 mm.

Fastening elements for plasterboard profiles

To fully install the profiles, you must also use repair equipment. It is used to connect individual structural frame elements, as well as to repair drywall sheets.

The types of fasteners for GCL are divided into the following categories:

A “P” bracket is used to connect a wall or ceiling to a metal frame made from a metal profile.

It softens wrinkles easily and contains perforations throughout the area.

• Quick attach hanger - quick hanger. It has a special speech with a hole that helps connect those parts that cannot be attached to the carrier
• The cross-bracket is used as a jumper on supporting profiles and allows connections at right angles
• To increase the length of the bearing profile, a connector is inserted into which the ends of the profiles are inserted

And fasteners are more secure in the drywall system structure, screws, bolts and dowels are used for fastening.

Their size is selected in accordance with the element or surface being fixed.

conclusion

How professional master It is usually sufficient to briefly describe the parameters of all structural elements of the drywall structure. But if you have to deal with this device for the first time, it is better to get visual information. For this purpose, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the video, which will allow you to delve into the process of selecting fasteners for a dry and visual display of the characteristics of each of them.

Finally, it should be noted that there is no need to ignore certain types of profiles for gypsum boards or fasteners that replace them with those that are available.

Sometimes this practice results in an unreliable drywall system.

See Types of Drywall Profiles

Installation of various profiles for plasterboard panels: installation of a profile strip on the floor, installation of CW profile profiles, installation of a UW profile rail on the ceiling.

Methods for installing profiles for plasterboard slabs.

Why do you need a proxy server?

Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL), due to their reasonable price and ease of handling, have firmly won the championship among finishing materials.

However, installation of gypsum boards is not always so simple matter. There are many features of their installation on different designs, which must be taken into account when performing work.

In this article we will consider the issues of application for installation load-bearing structure metal profile, we will learn how to attach the profile under plasterboard on the walls and ceiling.

General information about profiles

On the market building materials The most popular types are:

• Rack-mounted;
• Rack guide;
• Ceiling;
• Ceiling guide.

The main difference between the guide profiles is the absence of a special side, which is an additional stiffener.

There are two standard lengths of galvanized profiles: 3 meters and 4 meters.

Reliable connections – system reliability

It is very important to choose the right and reliable screws

The first thing that should be mentioned when talking about profile connections is the self-tapping screws used for this purpose. Self-tapping screws, 9.5 mm long, are usually used, popularly called “bugs” or “fleas”.

The first type of connection is splicing to obtain a profile of the required length.

Performed in three ways:

• Overlap;
• Butt joint using an additional piece of profile;
• Butt joint, using a guide.

All of these connections are fixed with self-tapping screws on the sides of the profiles to obtain maximum strength.

In some types of structures, it becomes necessary to connect profiles perpendicular to each other.

For this purpose, a special “crab” type connecting bracket is used, in professional language called a “single-level connector”.

It allows you to connect profiles at right angles, in the same plane. Often used when installing single-level ceiling structures.

Special devices for fastening drywall

Often, when designing a design, several levels of ceiling are provided.

Before approving such a project, you need to clearly understand how to attach the profile under drywall in such structures.

For multi-level connections of profiles at the required angle, special connectors are used, such as:

• Turning;
• Unilateral;
• Two-level.

It will not be superfluous for installation complex structures using another special connector - a corner connector.

But you can do without it by making cuts in the sides of the profile with metal scissors and bending it at the desired angle.

Fastening galvanized profiles to walls

The question of how to attach a drywall profile to the walls is usually not an acute one. Especially if the room is new and the walls are smooth.

For fastening, standard perforated hangers are used.

• The hangers are attached to the walls using dowels.
• Bend in the shape of the letter P.
• A galvanized profile is inserted inside the suspension.
• Through special holes in the suspension, using “fleas”, the profile is attached.
• Usually they are attached to the edges of the wall, set vertically using a level or plumb line, three threads are stretched between them: at the top, bottom and in the middle. Then the remaining profiles are set along these threads.

Fastening a galvanized profile to the ceiling

In ceiling structures to obtain reliable design As a base, a profile is used, attached to the walls along the entire perimeter of the ceiling.

Mounting to the ceiling using perforated hangers

Profiles are inserted into it, distributed evenly over the entire area of ​​the ceiling, and fastened with the same self-tapping screws - “fleas”.

If the distance is small, the profile is attached to the ceiling using the same perforated hangers.

If the distance is significant and the hangers for attaching the profile are not long enough, a system of so-called sliding hangers comes to the rescue.

Such systems are used during installation suspended ceilings, they consist of:

• Knitting needles in the amount of 2 pcs;
• Bracket;
• Spring holder.

One of these spokes is rigidly attached to the ceiling, and on the second the mounting height is adjustable. Sometimes installers use scraps of a regular profile, bending them at an angle of 900.

The resulting design has more high degree rigidity, which gives homemade mount advantage over the factory version.

Most The best way to learn how to attach a profile under drywall is to watch a master at work.

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands and video instructions

As they say, “It’s better to see once...”.

But if this is not possible, do not despair. Nothing is impossible. The main thing is to stock up on patience, materials and tools.

Watch a video on installing profiles and installing drywall:

With patience, everything is clear, we also figured out the material, and finally it remains to decide on the minimum required set of tools:

• Hammer or hammer drill– for drilling holes in walls and ceilings for dowels;
• Electric or battery-powered screwdriver - for tightening self-tapping screws;
• Metal scissors – for cutting;
• Level (spirit level) – for setting profiles strictly in a vertical position;
• Construction thread or twine - stretched between the outer profiles in several places to install the remaining profiles in the same plane;
• Pliers – for bending the cut parts of the profile;
• Gloves, glasses - protective equipment.

And one last piece of advice - when installing structures, it is strongly recommended to provide for the laying of all communications in advance, so that you do not have to redo everything all over again.

Do-it-yourself installation of a profile for plasterboard - installation of a frame from profiles for plasterboard

Today with the help plasterboard structures You can quickly and efficiently level the surface of walls and ceilings, create smooth single-level or unusual multi-level suspended ceilings, non-standard curved or maximally even partitions.

The basis of any such design is reliable frame, which must be carried out in strict accordance with technology, in accordance with current standards and rules. Installation of a profile under drywall can be done by any craftsman or amateur who knows how to use a screwdriver and simple construction tools.

Preparatory work

Profiles for plasterboard structures are made of durable galvanized steel.

They are easy to work with in any environment, even the most difficult conditions, with significant fluctuations in temperature and humidity. The main thing is to preparatory stage decide on the type of structure, its design and drawings of all connecting elements, on the basis of which you should purchase high-quality materials and prepare all the necessary tools.

Depending on the type of work planned, modern manufacturers offer several types of different profiles:

• Rack-mounted.

  They have a special central recess that strengthens the profile and helps, when installing the structure, to find the exact place for fixing the screws.

• Guides. They have durable corrugated walls of increased rigidity. Ordinary consumers call such profiles “P-shki” for their design features.

  They are used together with rack profiles, so their parameters when selecting and cutting must match.

• Ceiling. For arranging frame ceiling structures, special ceiling profiles, which simultaneously have three grooves, with the help of which the most accurate alignment of hangers and screws is performed.

In addition to profiles, you should purchase special components, without which it is impossible high-quality installation profile for plasterboard with your own hands.

Depending on the volume of work performed, you should buy hangers and rods, brackets, anchors, dowels and screws.

The following tools and equipment should be prepared:

• Special scissors for cutting metal elements.
• A screwdriver or hammer drill (depending on the design of the walls to which the profile will be attached).
• Building level.
• Laser level or plumb line.

Having prepared required amount main and consumables in accordance with the chosen design and scope of work, installation work begins.

The procedure for installing a profile under plasterboard

Consumers have already appreciated the frames for leveling walls, with which you can quickly create smooth and structural surfaces with niches and columns.

Based on pre-developed drawings, surface markings are made. Stepping back from the corner, draw a straight line on the adjacent wall using a ruler or level. This is the boundary of the entire structure, taking into account the thickness of the guide profile and gypsum board sheets. As a rule, this parameter is 40-50 mm. From the base line, transfer the markings to the ceiling using a laser level or plumb line.

After applying the markings, it begins step-by-step assembly frame.

First, guide profiles are installed, which are initially fixed using self-tapping screws and dowels to the floor surface, and then to the ceiling.

Having mounted the guide elements, direct hangers are attached, with the help of which the rack profiles will be installed.

Installation of a profile for drywall

The hangers are attached to the wall with dowels at a distance of no more than 800-1000 mm. Then all the vertical guides are installed, which are inserted into the cavities of the lower and upper profile.

When carrying out work, it is imperative to control the correct location of the structure in level using a vertical plumb line.

After making sure that the frame structure is installed level, all elements should be secured completely.

The frame structure can be additionally strengthened using jumpers, which should be cut from rack profiles.

Before fixing the plasterboard sheets, insulation, sound insulation, steam and waterproofing can be installed in the finished frame structure. View insulating materials and their thickness depends entirely on the type of wall and the task being performed.

Many craftsmen to increase sound insulation frame system use high strength plastic film, which is laid overlapping between the profiles.

As effective thermal insulation usually used roll materials or soft mats.

They are easy to cut and lay, fixed with a special stapler or tape.

If you are interested in how to attach drywall to the ceiling, you can find out here.

Video

This video shows the process of installing profiles for drywall.

The decision has been made and you begin the renovation. The most reliable and practical way Make the interior original by installing plasterboard slabs on the walls. But before proceeding to this stage, it is necessary to install a profile under the drywall.

Beginning independent work To install a profile under gypsum boards, you must have a set of tools that will be needed during the further construction process:

1. Water level.
2. Marking cord.
3. Marker.
4. Construction tape.
5. Square.
6. Building level.
7. Hammer with a set of drills.
8. Metal scissors.
9. Pliers.
10. Screwdriver.
11. Screwdriver with reverse.
12. Hammer.

You also need to purchase:

• press washer with drill;
• ceiling dowels for concrete;
• structure extensions (if the height of the wall is greater than the length of the rack);
• straight dewlaps (toad);
• connective crab;
• profiles: wall (UD); wall guide (UV); ceiling (CD); ceiling guide (UD).

Marking the room

Before installing the profile for drywall, you need to make markings, it starts with any top corner. Using a water level, we level the upper part of the room, placing marks in each corner with a marker. Then, using a marking cord, we mark out the line for attaching the ceiling guide profile along the entire length of the ceiling. Using a hammer drill, we make holes in the wall at the place where the structure is attached with a frequency of 500 mm, after which we fix the guides using wall dowels, hammering them in with a construction hammer. We mount ceiling profiles into the installed guides. Fix the ceiling (CD) with a guide profile on each side with a press washer using a screwdriver. Installation of each subsequent CD is carried out at a distance of 600 mm. The direct suspension is attached to the ceiling with two concrete dowels, and to the CD with two or four press washers with a drill.

For greater rigidity of the frame, it is necessary to connect the CDs through 500 mm, using blanks 600 mm long and a crab connector, the use of which will make it possible to safely mount to it lighting and use wall plasterboard when constructing the ceiling, which is less susceptible to deformation during installation and subsequent processing. It should be noted that the height to which the ceiling frame is lowered depends on the length of the direct suspension and should not be small, because, as a rule, it is mounted under the frame mineral wool for insulation, wires for lighting, communications for the kitchen.

Return to contents

Installation of wall frame

Having installed the plasterboard profile on the ceiling, we proceed to the installation of the wall frame. The size of the indentation between the wall and the frame is selected taking into account the fact that it is necessary to insulate the wall or install soundproofing material. We start marking from the CD, using a building level, and draw a vertical line to the floor with a marker. After this, using a tape measure and a corner, we mark for installing the wall guide profile. It is necessary to carry out all preparatory marking activities so that the room, which is subsequently covered with plasterboard, has the correct geometric structure, that is, the presence of right angles at the profile joints. This, in turn, will reduce the amount of waste from construction materials at subsequent stages of construction and reduce the cost of financial expenditures, which is important.

Using the lines marked on the floor and walls, we fasten the guide wall profiles using a hammer drill and wall dowels. They are connected to each other at the joints by a press washer with a drill. Having correctly installed the wall guides, you get a quadrangular frame into which the wall profiles are fixed one by one. You need to start work from the corner of the room, carrying out installation every 600 mm horizontally and every 500 mm vertically, using straight hangers, which are also attached to the wall with dowels, and to the frame with a press washer.

The indicated work progress applies to all walls of the room being repaired. The fastening is original only in those places where it is necessary to install a window or door, but even in this case you must adhere to the installation rules. In this case, the profile for plasterboard must begin to be mounted from the doorway or window installation location in order to obtain a rigid frame for the most durable fastening of plasterboard.

After completing the installation of the vertical components of the structure, it is necessary to secure them together along the perimeter of the ceiling and floor. This will allow you to avoid problems in the future when attaching the plinth to the floor of the room, as well as when installing a stretch ceiling.

The height and length of the room being renovated can vary, unlike the length of the profile.

If the standard length of the metal profile is not enough, you must use a standard industrial extension for it. It is attached using pliers.

Today in repair and finishing works Drywall and structures made from it are often used, since this material has a number of advantages over others.

Installing a profile under plasterboard with your own hands is easy, but it requires precise calculations and compliance with the rules.

There are two methods of laying plasterboard sheets - framed and frameless.

The latter involves gluing sheets onto smooth surface using gypsum glue. This is how the walls are leveled.

Frameless wall cladding

The frame method is the creation of a base from profiles, which is then sheathed with plasterboard sheets.

There are many options for connecting parts, but it is best to use a cutter. The cutter pliers are a device that allows you to create notches without much difficulty.

Before starting work, correctly calculate the number and type of components.

Plasterboard sheets are classified by purpose and thickness. The same applies to the metal profile - it is available in four versions:

• ceiling (PP or CD);
• ceiling guide (PNP or UD);
• rackmount (PS or CW);
• guide (PN or UW).

The first symbol in the designation corresponds to the profile section, the second indicates the area of ​​application: type W is used when finishing walls, and type D is used when working with ceilings.

Installation volumetric design for subsequent covering

Preliminary work

First, carefully examine the wall or ceiling on which the profile is to be mounted. Determine what material it is made of, what is the microclimate in the room.

Based on your observations, select the type of drywall and fasteners.

For rooms with a normal environment, standard sheets are suitable. For the bathroom, kitchen or basement, choose one with moisture-resistant properties. When arranging technical or garage premises, warehouses, stokers, and places where high-temperature equipment is located, use fire-resistant sheets.

When installing ceilings, determine the height to which the surface will fall and select hangers accordingly.

Varieties frame elements for gypsum board

In accordance with the fittings from which the walls are made, dowels and screws for metal and wood are used different sizes. The thicker and more difficult wall, the larger the size of the driven dowel or screwed screw.

Selection of tools

When installing a profile use:

• drill or hammer drill;
• metal scissors, hammer;
• different types of levels or plumb line;
• painting knife and thread, tape measure, pencil;
• screwdriver or cutter;
• square or crossbar;
• sealing tape;
• dowel-nails and anchor-wedges;
• suspensions, profiles, their connectors;
• self-tapping screws

The correct installation of guide profiles is checked using a building level of one type or another.

To ensure that the frame forms a single whole, self-tapping screws are used to connect the profiles. But now everything is much simpler - most builders have begun to use a cutter. It is easy to work with, no special skills are required. Cutter pliers help you effortlessly create a frame for drywall. In appearance, this tool resembles pliers.

Types of plasterboard sheets

Profile installation stages

Work to prepare a strong and durable base for drywall:

• Level and plaster the floor, adjacent walls or ceiling;
• Make markings for the frame on the floor, wall or ceiling. Thickness is added to the marks plasterboard sheet, finishing and putty. At this stage, a laser or water level will be useful;
• Attach the profiles to the ceiling or walls, not forgetting to apply sealing tape. If you are working on installing a wall, then first install UW profiles on the floor and ceiling, using dowels and screws in half-meter increments.
• Along the edges of the guides and where door or window openings are planned, rack elements (CW) are placed facing the middle. Metal screws are used for this.

If you have a cutter at hand, follow these steps to connect the profile:

1. correctly align the two profiles being connected relative to each other;
2. move the handles of the device apart;
3. insert the work element onto both sides of the parts;
4. bring the handles together in one motion. You will hear a kind of click, which will indicate that the profiles are connected;
5. spread the handles and carefully pull out the device.

Cutter

In practice, it turns out that this type of connection is not inferior to screws in strength and durability.

Another advantage of working with a cutter is that the self-tapping caps do not interfere with the drywall sheets tightly adhering to installed frames and do not leave noticeable indentations on the outside. After all, there are no screws and screws there.

Choose a reinforced, that is, universal cutter for work. It fits all profile sizes. But if you plan to work only on the ceiling, you can purchase an inexpensive cutter designed for ceiling work.

So, first, the profiles are attached to the lower guides, then they are set vertically and attached to the upper guides. It is very important to leave space for covering the structure with plasterboard strips.

• Rack profiles are placed vertically along the entire length of the structure. To do this, first make an indent of 55 cm from the adjacent wall, then place the first profile, and the following after it in increments of 60 cm;
• Designate openings for windows and doors using guide profiles. The result is a frame of the desired shape.

Openings for doors and windows in the structure

At this stage, the installation of the profile is complete. Double-check everything carefully, because the profile for drywall is load-bearing element systems!

At each stage of work, different devices are used, they allow you to make the work process as convenient as possible.

Video advice from experts:

If you get down to business seriously and decisively, prepare in advance, find out the necessary information and nuances, you will be able to avoid the most common mistakes when installing a profile and in the end get a high-quality and durable result.

Plasterboard structures in the nursery

So, the article describes initial stages works on the creation of plasterboard structures. The surface of the plasterboard is smooth, so immediately after covering they begin cladding and the most creative type of work - painting, wallpapering or other finishing.

In contact with

Working with dry gypsum plaster begins with the installation of profiles for drywall.

The frame is the basis, on the evenness of which the entire result of the work depends, so at every stage of its construction you need to use building level.

Overall, this job requires focus and attention.

The key to success in any repair is the selection quality materials and the necessary tools.

When repairs are done with your own hands, many tools are already in the arsenal of craftsmen, but to install a frame from profiles for drywall, you will need some special devices.

The list is not small, but there are no unnecessary items.

Common weapons include:

• roulette;
• building level;
• hammer;
• stationery knife;
• metal knife;
• several spatulas.

Separately, it is worth purchasing a spatula for corners if you need to create three-dimensional structures.

You will also need a screwdriver and a hammer drill.

Installation of the frame and the drywall itself is impossible without:

• anchor wedges;
• dowel-nails;
• self-tapping screws

If the room has “cluttered” walls or a very skewed ceiling, then you will need to use some types of fastenings: direct hangers, crab connectors, profile extensions.

Well, of course - aluminum profiles and drywall in the required quantity.

To ensure that the applied marking lines, and subsequently constructed plasterboard planes, are perfectly level, you can use a laser or hydraulic level for the work.

These devices save time, since with a regular building level it is quite difficult to accurately determine how skewed the ceiling is or apply markings on the walls.

A cord release device may also be useful. For a kind of sound insulation, craftsmen use sealing tape when installing supporting profiles.

If sound insulation is to be done thoroughly, then the materials must be appropriate.

Finishing work requires availability acrylic primer, putty, reinforcing tape for seams, you may also have to treat the original surface with an antifungal solution.

The market now offers different kinds plasterboard, both for interior and exterior work.

To make repairs yourself, you need to pay attention to the following: regular and moisture-resistant.

For finishing rooms exposed to high humidity, it's better to use the latter.

It's also worth it connecting elements and choose reliable aluminum profiles from trusted manufacturers.

Wall finishing with plasterboard

Secrets are perfect smooth walls often consist of making the right choice finishing.

Unambiguously, having assessed the time, effort, money spent on the work, as well as the final result, we can confidently say that drywall is perfect solution for imperfect walls.

The work begins with marking. Lines are drawn on the floor along which the supporting profiles and markings for vertical elements will be located. These lines should be equally spaced from each other.

At standard width sheet one meter twenty centimeters, this distance is sixty centimeters. This is done so that the joints of the sheets fall exactly in the middle of the profile.

The first vertical profiles should be at some distance from the corners. Other secrets of installing a frame under drywall are revealed in the following video.

The construction of the frame begins with a guide profile fixed to the floor. After this, vertical elements will be placed along the drawn lines.

Their length should correspond to the height of the room, but the standard length is usually greater than the height of the walls.

This is not a problem, because aluminum elements are easy to cut even with your own hands using metal scissors.

Before starting the installation of the vertical components of the frame, hangers are attached to the wall in increments of 50–60 centimeters, onto which profiles will subsequently be installed.

If the height of the walls exceeds standard length a sheet of two and a half meters, then the drywall needs to be installed staggered. In this case, there is a need for additional transverse jumpers.

They should also be installed taking into account the fact that they should have a joint. The remaining spaces are filled with pieces of drywall cut to size.

Installation is carried out using self-tapping screws in increments of up to 25 centimeters.

Construction of new plasterboard walls

If it is necessary to divide the space into several rooms, drywall can perform at its best.

A special advantage of this material is its Fire safety, without this quality it is impossible to even talk about carrying out electrical wiring inside the wall.

Moreover, you can do all the work yourself.

Having drawn up a preliminary plan of the room, you can begin marking the design position of the future walls.

It is easier to draw design lines using a laser level and a cord breaker.

Secrets correct use These tools are presented in the video.

Walls, especially in older houses, almost never form perfectly right angles with each other.

There is always some kind of error, which leads to the fact that the distance between the opposite partitions at the beginning and end is different.

Taking this into account, the plasterboard structure should be placed at an equal distance from opposite walls. Then it will not be noticeable that the room does not have an ideal shape.

In addition, the construction of a plasterboard partition should be the last stage of repair, that is, the walls and ceiling should be puttied.

The lower supporting profiles are installed according to the marked marks. The distance between the fastening points should not be more than a meter; each element should have at least three dowels.

In the same way, guide profiles are attached to the ceiling. After measuring the height of the room, the rack profiles are cut and installed.

Those that are adjacent to the walls are mounted using sealing tape, those that form the doorway need to be strengthened.

The video above explains how to do this.

After installing the end posts, the remaining space must be filled vertical elements in increments of sixty centimeters and horizontal jumpers, as when covering walls.

After running the electrical wiring, you can attach drywall to one side of the aluminum frame and lay down insulating material.

Drywall on the second side of the frame is attached so that the joints of the sheets on both sides do not coincide.

Before finishing putty walls, the seams are primed and sealed using sickle tape, the recessed heads of the screws are also hidden under the putty.

Frame for plasterboard ceiling

Some types of suspended ceilings and similar structures are built not only for aesthetic purposes, but also with the help of plasterboard boxes communications or unsightly beams are hidden.

Also, if necessary, additional heat and sound insulation can be hidden in these structures.

Installing the ceiling yourself light hands cannot be named. But if necessary and enough practice, the result can be pleasantly surprising.

This will take a lot of time, but if you wish, you can even make a two-level structure with your own hands.

A plasterboard ceiling, like previous types of plasterboard structures, is attached at the stage when other surfaces (except the floor) are ready.

Installation also begins with marking the walls and ceiling.

If you don’t have a laser level and a cord breaker, you can do the markings yourself using a pencil and a building level.

Along the marked lines, guide profiles are attached to the walls with dowels using sealing tape.

The frequency of attachment points should be at least fifty centimeters, at least three for each profile. After this, direct suspensions are attached to the ceiling.

The distance between the hangers is determined by the load subsequently applied. After installing the supporting profiles, transverse jumpers are installed.

The pitch of the transverse elements must be uniform, with standard sizes It is advisable to take the sheet step equal to 50 centimeters.

The first load-bearing profile should be 10 centimeters from the wall. The crossbars are attached using a crab connector.

How to properly attach such clamps is clearly shown in the following video.

After installing the frame, you can begin covering it with plasterboard. Sheets are cut using stationery knife or special knife for drywall.

Sheets should be fastened at intervals. Place the self-tapping screws at intervals of 15-20 centimeters, leaving a centimeter “in reserve” from the edge.

Finishing

In order for the result of the work to be durable, you need to follow some rules for working with drywall.

When installing sheets on a frame, the heads of the screws need to be slightly recessed; the screws should be placed in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of ten millimeters from the edge of the sheet.

The cardboard at the attachment points should not be torn. Before installation, you need to cut the chamfer from the drywall at an angle - this will make it easier to seal the seams in the future.

When creating rounded structures, for example, on multi-level ceiling, smooth lines from profiles and drywall can be achieved with your own hands by making frequent cuts on the profile or on one side of the sheet.

Finishing includes priming and sealing seams using serpyanka. Also, recessed screw heads are hidden under the putty.

After drying and sanding, apply finishing layer putties. The last stage is painting.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

In the process of repairing or remodeling an apartment, the question inevitably arises of reconstructing and modernizing old walls, erecting new partitions or. An excellent solution in this case would be to use drywall. It is easy to work with this material. Difficulties can only be caused by the installation of the profile to which the gypsum plasterboard sheets are attached, but you can easily handle it with your own hands without involving outside help, if you know how to do this part of the job correctly.

Tool

To work you will need:

• Construction level and plumb line.
• Tape measure and chop cord.
• Hammer and screwdriver.
• Metal scissors and pliers.
• Hammer and screwdriver.
• Utility knife and marker.

The list of tools can be supplemented with some professional accessories, the presence of which is not necessary for simple installation: they can be replaced with a simpler tool.

Using a cutter when assembling a frame from a profile can not only reduce the number of screws in the joining parts of the structure. The use of such a joining will allow you to avoid differences between the heads of the screws and the surface, which is especially important on the plane, which will subsequently be covered with plasterboard.

Materials for work

Nowadays it is rare to find a drywall frame made of wooden blocks, because wood loses its properties over time, and changes in temperature or humidity can cause deformation of the material. For frame manufacturing work, they are used metal profiles, which are more durable and do an excellent job of creating multi-level structures. During installation frame structure With his own hands, even an unprofessional craftsman can independently calculate the number of necessary elements.

Profile types

Before starting design, it is worth deciding on the types and purpose of the profiles.

• The UD guide profile is used to specify the plane of future structures and the interface between several planes in complex elements.
• The load-bearing profile CD is intended for further installation of drywall and is designed to withstand the loads created by finishing materials.
• Reinforced profiles UW and CW are similar in purpose and differ large size. Suitable for between rooms.

Fasteners

Connecting and fastening elements are also necessary, thanks to which the entire structure acquires additional rigidity.

• The straight CD connector is used to connect two load-bearing profiles into one structural element.
• The cross-shaped CD connector is designed for transverse mounting of load-bearing posts in a single-level structure.
• A two-level CD connector is necessary when fastening elements located at different levels.
• The U-shaped bracket is used to attach load-bearing profiles to the surface of a wall or ceiling at the required distance.

These are just the main connecting elements; manufacturers offer a much larger range designed for specific type fastenings, for example, for the construction of a multi-level ceiling frame, there are various suspensions that allow you to create complex planes with your own hands that can support sheets of plasterboard.

Additional materials

To secure structural elements, it is necessary to ensure the availability of consumables and auxiliary materials. These include:

• Sealing tape for guide elements. It is a strip of foamed polyethylene with an applied adhesive composition that serves as an insulating layer between the base and the part to be fixed.
• Impact dowels with a minimum size of 6 x 40, which are intended for installation of the structure.
• Metal self-tapping screws, which are used to connect racks and fasteners to each other.

If the structure has door or similar openings, they must be reinforced to meet strength requirements. The easiest way to do this yourself is to use wooden beam, which must be inserted into the profile framing the opening and secured with self-tapping screws in increments of 20 cm.

Before the construction phase begins, a sketch of the future structure should be prepared. Such an event will allow us to determine the number required material and, accordingly, the cost of upcoming work. For such calculations you need to know some design features and requirements for the placement of elements.

• The distance between the guides is calculated based on the width of the plasterboard sheet, which is 120 cm. They are installed in increments of 40 cm for increased load (ceiling, etc.) or 60 cm under normal conditions (wall cladding).
• Suspensions should be placed at a distance of 50 cm, and in case of increased requirements for strength or in places where complex components are located, their additional installation is possible.

Surface marking

To continue the work, it is necessary to transfer the markings from the preliminary sketch to the surface.

• You should start by determining the curvature of the sides of the room. The distance between opposite walls can vary by several centimeters, and when marking, you should focus on obtaining right angles with minimal loss of space. Having decided on the initial line on the floor, you can begin to transfer the markings to the walls and ceiling.
• To transfer lines to the wall, you can use a plumb line to mark a clear vertical line. In such cases, having a laser level can greatly simplify the work, although using a plumb line can achieve good accuracy.

The process of marking under the profile can also be facilitated using a painting cord. In this case, the cord is held at the points of the beginning and end of the line, then pulled back a little and released, as a result of which the necessary marking is obtained.

• The next step is to mark vertical lines on the plane between the walls. A distance of 60 cm between them is most optimal; subsequently a guide profile will be installed here.
• Then, on the marked vertical lines, places for the mounting suspension are allocated in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 50 cm. Applying such markings will completely prepare the surface for further installation and significantly facilitate the work.

When applying markings for ceiling installation work, the first priority will be to mark the horizontal level, which can be done using a simple hydraulic level or laser level. When marking the ceiling, it should be taken into account that the distance between the ceiling guide system and the lowest point of the ceiling must be at least 4 cm.

In the process of applying markings with your own hands, you should remember that similar works do not show the final size of the room and to determine the future area it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the drywall sheet.

Assembly

The frame assembly process is as follows:

• The guide profiles are installed first, which are pre-cut if necessary. Before attaching to the profile, it is glued to the places where it abuts the base. sealing tape, which will provide proper heat and sound insulation between the surface and structural elements.