Rafter system of a hipped roof with a bay window diagram. How to build a roof over a bay window? Which roof option is right for your home? Roof with dormer window



Among roofs for a private home, hip roofs have a good ability to self-clean and withstand strong wind loads. In addition to excellent technical characteristics, the appearance of such structures is impeccable. However, the rafter system of a hip roof has a rather complex structure and requires the correct calculation of all components. Having a competent design and painstaking installation will be the key to a beautiful and high-quality design.


Hip roofs: photos of interesting designs

Hip roofs are a type of roof consisting of four slopes and, due to their design features, are highly resistant to strong gusts of wind. This is explained by the fact that instead of gables in houses with a hip roof, hips (inclined triangular slopes) are used, thanks to which the shape becomes more streamlined and the roof itself is durable.


The absence of gables makes the height of a house with a hip roof visually smaller, but in general, house construction with such a roof looks organic. Photo one-story houses with a hip roof indicate that often the space directly under the roof is used to create a cozy attic room. To illuminate the attic, full-fledged window structures are located in the roof.

A photo of houses with a hip roof illustrates the neat external contours of the roof, which is often equipped with dormer windows. This makes the roof colorful and interesting in design terms. Hip roofs are usually used for houses large area, the base of which forms a rectangle. If the perimeter of the house has square shape, then they use another type of hip roof - a hip roof.


The main feature of a hip roof is that all its slopes have the same shape of an isosceles triangle and an identical angle of inclination. All faces of such a structure converge at one upper point. Hip roofs are also appropriate in houses with correct form polygon. As many sides as there are in a polygon, the roof will have as many symmetrical slopes. From an architectural point of view, such structures are no less attractive.

Another subtype of hip roof is the half-hip roof. This is a combination of a gable and hip model in one design. To give the roof a streamlined shape, the pediment is covered with a small triangular slope (half-hip), the length of which is shortened along the slope. This option ensures that the ridge element of the roof becomes inaccessible to wind currents. When using the space under the roof as an attic, it is possible to install full-fledged windows in the gable part.

Hip roofs with a bay window look exceptional. Bay roofs add romance and sophistication to the entire housing construction. You can find roofs with bay windows attached to the main structure or built separately over a wall projection. The main disadvantage of such roofs is the complexity of design and rather expensive installation.


To cover a hip structure, you can use almost all modern roofing materials: slate, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, ceramic and bitumen tiles and other materials. The roofing covering is selected taking into account the roof slope, the climate of the region, and the characteristics of the material. In addition, the durability, aesthetics and cost of the coating itself play an important role.

Getting acquainted with the design of a hip roof, you will find that it is quite difficult to coordinate all the slopes with the same slope. Required accurate calculations, a competent project and theoretical recommendations from professionals. But, despite the complexity of constructing the frame, hip roofs are undoubtedly popular among private developers.


The main advantages of a hip roof

In addition to the original design, hip roofs have a number of advantages that distinguish the design from other models:

  • the absence of gables makes the structure invulnerable to strong wind loads. The smaller the slope of the roof slopes, the less impact wind pressure has on the rafter system;
  • the streamlined shape of all four slopes contributes to the stability of the structure to any type of precipitation;
  • As for the efficiency of energy saving, this design is in many ways superior to gable roofs;
  • It is much easier to insulate a hip roof, since the thermal insulation cake is located under the slopes. In roof models with gables, special insulation of the vertical facade, which is more exposed to wind, is required;
  • the system of sloped, central and outer rafters provides reliable design, resistant to deformation under the influence of external loads;
  • depending on the slope, it is possible rational use space under the hip roof for the attic and arrangement of windows in the roof.

The main disadvantages of hipped models remain the complexity of the hip roof rafter system and the impossibility of arranging an attic in models with a slight slope. However, with proper study of the drawings of hip roofs and construction measures thought out to the smallest detail, the construction of such structures becomes a realistically feasible task.

Hip roof rafter system: main elements

The hip roof frame is ridge beam and system various rafters. Taking into account the fact that slopes and hips have different slopes, there are several types of rafter legs. The main components of the design include:

  • corner rafters (sloping) - main load-bearing elements structures located at the corners of the frame. Sloping rafter legs have a smaller slope relative to other intermediate rafters;
  • central rafters - they are attached to the ends of the ridge beam: there are three elements on each side. They are called central intermediate rafters;
  • intermediate rafters - located between the central rafters, starting from the trim and ending at the ridge;

  • short rafters (external) - the elements are attached at one end to the slanted rafters, and at the other to the frame. External rafters differ in length, but have the same slope;
  • ridge girder - a horizontally located crossbar that serves as an upper support for the sloping and central rafters;
  • Mauerlat - a beam fixed on top of the external walls. It serves to uniformly distribute the concentrated load of the rafter legs. The Mauerlat is a kind of foundation of the rafter system and connects the roof frame with the walls of the house. Since the roof area is large, such a binding allows the roof not to “fly away” during strong gusts of wind;
  • strut - an inclined beam used as a support for rafters long span, taking up horizontal loads. Using struts, you can cover a significantly larger span and save the cross-section of the main load-bearing beams. In the design of hip roofs, the angle of inclination of the struts is 45 or 60 degrees;

  • babaka – vertical support, on which the rafter legs rest;
  • puff - wooden beam, which acts as an additional support for the rafter legs and prevents them from moving apart. For tightening, a beam of smaller cross-section is usually used than for rafters;
  • sprengel - horizontal elements laid diagonally in the corners of the walls. The sprengel acts as a support for the rack for the sloped rafters. This element is used in cases where it is not technically possible to install a rack on the ceiling;
  • sheathing is a layer of small-section boards that are laid perpendicularly on top of the rafters. Acts as a base for roofing. The sheathing boards are laid in small increments (approximately one board). Where the valley or cornice is located, the sheathing is continuous;
  • counter-lattice - elements installed on top and parallel to the rafters before the sheathing. Serve to create a ventilation gap between the sheathing, waterproofing and roofing material;
  • filly - a small piece of board, with the help of which the rafter leg is extended to create a cornice overhang. It is designed to drain rain and melt water from the walls of the house, as well as protect the base and slopes from slanting rain.

In the photo of the hip roof rafter system you can see that the ridge girder is located strictly in the center and parallel to the load-bearing walls of the house. In addition, the beginning and end of the run must be at the same distance from the end walls. This arrangement will ensure uniform distribution of the load, and, consequently, the stability of the structure.

Scheme of the hip roof rafter system

Hip hip roofs are more difficult to construct than conventional gable roofs. This is explained by the difficulty of accurately joining all four slopes at the required slope. Such roofs have two large trapezoid-shaped slopes and two triangle-shaped end slopes. When forming a rafter system, the main difficulties in installing a hip roof arise.

The design of a house with a hip roof takes into account that the slope of the slopes should be in the range from 10 to 60 degrees. The choice of inclination angle is influenced by the amount of precipitation, material roofing, as well as whether the under-roof space will be used as an attic space. In regions with high rainfall, the slope should be at least 45 degrees.

The hip roof diagram must provide for the cross-sectional shape, dimensions and exact location of all structural elements frame. In addition, the drawings of the hip roof rafter system reflect the length ridge girder, roof height, slope angle, span width, methods of strengthening the structure and specifics of fastening elements.


Considering that the slanted rafter legs have longer length and are supporting for the narodniks, they need strengthening. To do this, a sprengel is used, the beam of which is cut into the mauerlat, and the oblique leg is supported with a stand. To strengthen the rafter system, they use a wind beam. It is fixed on the inside of the central rafters diagonally, mainly on the windy side of the house.

In the case when the rafters have a length of more than 4.5 m, diagonal struts are used to strengthen them, the use of which allows you to choose beams of a smaller cross-section for the rafters. The struts rest against the tie rods (floor beams), which prevent the rafters from moving apart. If the ties are attached closer to the ridge beam, they can serve as a base for the attic ceiling cladding.

The rafter diagram for a hip roof substantiates the feasibility of using layered or hanging rafters, as well as the use of additional reinforcing elements. If during calculations it turns out that the parameters of the beam do not correspond to the required load, it is possible to use glued or stacked rafter beams. These modified elements are much more massive and can be longer.


If the house construction does not have an intermediate load-bearing wall, then hanging rafter legs are used, which rest on only two supports (on two walls of the house). In this case, the rafters experience compression and bending loads. Due to the fact that the rafter legs create a pushing force on the walls, a wooden tie is used, which connects the rafters together. It is usually installed below at the base of the rafter legs.

When the structure has an intermediate load-bearing wall or average support pillars, use the scheme of layered rafters. In this option, the rafters rest at one end on the outer walls, and for the middle part of the legs, the support is columns or an internal load-bearing wall. With this design rafter elements work in bending, like a beam.

Compared to a roof that uses hanging rafters, a structure with layered rafter legs is lighter. The construction of such a roof requires less materials, which reduces construction costs. It is possible to use a combined rafter system in one structure. This happens when one part of the house has an internal load-bearing wall, and the other does not. To install a roof over such a building, both rafter options are used.


The rafter pattern for a hip roof with offset is used when it is necessary to increase the eaves. In this case, the rafter legs will rest against the floor beams. When installing a hip roof with the rafters supported on the floor beams, such an element as the Mauerlat can be completely excluded from the structural design. Instead, it is proposed to use wooden leveling spacers.

Hip roof rafter system with bay window

Quite popular in private construction is the construction of house walls with bay windows (protrusions). This is a very interesting architectural solution, however, the projects of such houses are characterized by the complexity of design and construction of the structure. A bay window can be erected not only during construction, but also attached to an existing building. The ledge can be single-story or multi-story.

It is worth noting that the most difficult thing in building houses of this architectural form is the design and installation of a hip roof with a bay window. The basic rule is that the roof of the bay window should harmoniously support the main roof of the building, forming a general style. It is very difficult to build a bay roof, so not everyone will decide to build such a house. The slightest inaccuracy in calculations can lead to the design being unreliable.


The shape of the roof for it depends on what shape the protrusion has (rounded, multifaceted, rectangular). It can be a hip, multi-gable, gable structure or a hemispherical roof. Sometimes a spire-shaped roof is erected over the bay window.

There are two types of roof over the bay window: independent roof protrusion or combined with the roof of the main building. For the bay window rafter system, a material with a smaller cross-section is used than for the rafter legs of the main roof structure. This is due to the fact that these elements will take less load.

The technology for laying the roof covering over the bay window is identical to the method for covering the main roof. It is recommended to use tiles, since a small area with several slopes requires a material that would leave minimal amount waste. Bituminous or ceramic tiles meet this requirement. To calculate metal tiles for a hip roof, you can use a special calculator.


When constructing roofs with a bay window, special attention should be paid to the valleys. They are used in two types of construction - the upper valley strip and the lower one. One covers unsightly cuts, the other will allow sediment to flow down. In addition, professionals do not advise saving on fasteners (screws, nails, studs, plates). They must be purchased in the right quantity and of good quality.

You can learn about the construction features of the structure from the video of the installation of a hip roof with a bay window.


DIY hip roofs: drawings and photos, sketches and design calculations

Before you start building a hip roof with your own hands, you need to complete the drawings and make a correct calculation of the entire structure. It would be a good idea to seek help from a specialist who has experience in this field and can optimally select the angle of inclination and make calculations. Considering that the roof structure may contain broken lines and irregularities, it will be difficult to accurately calculate all the constituent elements.

Before you make a hip roof with your own hands, even of the simplest design, you will need to develop a hip roof project with drawings and sketches. This will help determine the shape of the roof and make it possible to correctly calculate required amount materials for construction. To carry out the design, you can use the following recommendations:

  • You should measure the height, length and width of the house. According to the data obtained, draw a schematic diagram of the facade and end of the house on a convenient scale. Several copies of such sketches must be made;
  • when determining optimal height hip roof in relation to the house and the slope of the roof slopes, it is necessary to display several options for the roof contour on one of the sketches. Next, you should choose the most successful one, and use a protractor to determine the angle of inclination of the slopes of the future design;

  • The next step will be to mark the position of the layered rafters on the marking diagram - mark the points in these places. We divide the length of the wall indicated in the diagram into equal sections - this will be the step between the beams. It can be from 40 cm to 2 m. But it must be taken into account that quite often installed rafter legs will entail excessive consumption of material, and a large step between the rafters will cause the use of structural reinforcement elements;
  • when determining the length of the ridge, it is necessary to take into account that the purlin must connect a pair of rafter legs. On one of the sketches it is necessary to mark equal segments from each edge of the wall;
  • the resulting diagrams are transferred to general scheme, after which you can calculate the amount required material. The length of the rafter legs is determined by outside, based on the length of the eaves overhangs (about 50 cm).

Based on the number of rafter legs, you can calculate the number of fasteners. All joint fastenings will use nails. There are two mounting angles for each rafter leg. When preparing material, you should make a small reserve in case the material is damaged. If the house is made of brick or blocks, you need to purchase timber for installing the Mauerlat.

Selecting the slope angle

When determining the angle of inclination of a hip roof, the climatic conditions in which construction is carried out should be taken into account. If the climate is hot, dry and windy, the slope should be minimal to prevent overheating and avoid additional load. In areas with heavy snowfall, the slope is increased for unimpeded snow removal.

In addition, when choosing the angle of a hip roof, you should take into account the roofing material, each type of which has restrictions on the slope of the slopes:

  • slate – the covering is used for roof slopes from 13 to 60 degrees. If the angle of inclination is less than 13 degrees, then moisture will seep into the joints, and in winter snow will get in. This will lead to a significant reduction in the life of the roof;
  • ceramic tiles - the optimal slope for this material is from 30 to 60 degrees. When laying tiles on a roof with a slope of less than 25 degrees, measures should be taken to improve ventilation and waterproofing;

  • metal tiles - when laying this material, the maximum angle of inclination is not standardized, the minimum is 15 degrees;
  • bitumen shingles - the coating is used for roofs with a slope of over 12 degrees. The maximum inclination angle is unlimited. The material perfectly follows the shape of any surface;
  • bitumen slate - sheets of this material are used with a slope of 5 degrees. There is no maximum value, however, the pitch of the sheathing will depend on the angle of inclination, and with a slope of 5 to 10 degrees it is necessary to arrange a continuous flooring;
  • steel seam roofing – laid on slopes of 20 degrees or more. There is no maximum tilt angle limitation.

Increasing the angle of inclination helps to increase the roof area, which will entail additional expenses building material. Therefore, if it is fundamentally important to save materials, then this should be taken into account when drawing up drawings.

Features of calculating the area of ​​a hip roof

To determine the required amount of roofing material to cover a hip roof, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the surface to be covered.


The calculation requires the following data:

  • the existing dormers and chimney pipes in the roof are taken into account, since their presence requires an increase in the consumption of roofing material;
  • the length of the slope from the bottom of the ridge to the edge of the eaves overhang is determined;
  • firewall walls, parapets, overhangs and other elements are calculated;
  • The calculation does not take into account the abutments of the canvases, standing seams, and protruding elements of the bars.

To get accurate data on the roof area, you can seek help from specialists or use modern programs, which will make the most accurate calculation. But if you still decide to do this yourself, you need to conditionally divide the entire surface into separate elements, the area of ​​which can be easily calculated mathematically, and then sum up the resulting values.

The more accurately the area is determined, the lower the likelihood of acquiring excess material and wasting finances. The amount of materials required for construction must be fixed at the project stage one-story house with a hip roof. The cost of these materials also includes the roofing, so the cost of building the house as a whole depends on the correct calculation of the roof surface area.


To calculate the area, you need to use the hip roof plan. It should also be taken into account specifications roofing covering (thickness, length) and methods of its installation. The thickness of the material affects the weight of the coating, and knowing the length and width of the material, you can arrange it with the least amount of waste and joining lines.

For clarity, you can analyze the use of ceramic or flexible tiles. Ceramic tiles– the material is heavy and weighs 5 times more than flexible material. Laying flexible tiles does not require a rafter system or frequent lathing, but it is necessary to lay solid plywood or other material underneath. Therefore, in order to determine the cost of the entire construction and choose the most profitable material, it is necessary to calculate the hip roof.

The total cost of construction will undoubtedly be influenced by the area of ​​the hip roof, but it is also worth taking into account the complexity of constructing the structure itself, especially when it comes to arranging an attic space. The complexity of the calculation will be influenced by elements such as dormer windows, ventilation openings, chimneys, etc.

For example, you can calculate the area of ​​a hipped roof. With a roof drawing, calculations are much more convenient and the required values ​​will be more accurate. The diagrams show that the base for the roof is a rectangle, two slopes are an isosceles triangle, the other two are trapezoids.


Diagram of a hip roof, where L1 is length, L2 is width

In this case, the tangent of the angle of inclination of the triangular face is equal to the ratio of h (roof height) to? values ​​b (length of the base of the triangle). So, we determine the height of the roof by the expression:

h = (b tan?)/2.

The length of the side rafter leg (e) can be determined using the angle of inclination:

e = b/2 cos?.

Using the Pythagorean Theorem, you can determine the length of the slanted rafter legs (d):

The total area of ​​the entire roof is calculated by summing the areas of all constituent elements surface of the hip roof, namely four triangles and two rectangles:

S = 4(eb/2)+2(a-b)e = 2e(b+a-b) = 2ea.


Construction of a hipped hip roof

Hip roof area calculator

Due to the fact that not everyone is able to independently calculate all the parameters of the roof, the websites of companies specializing in roof construction and sales roofing materials, suggest using an online calculator. With its help, you can find out the exact amount of lumber, insulation and roofing materials, as well as calculate the length and cross-section of the rafters for the selected type of structure.

By using an online calculator with drawings and diagrams to calculate a hip roof, you can determine how optimal the slope of the slopes is relative to a particular roofing covering, whether the section of the beam can withstand the current wind and snow loads for the rafter system in your region.

Before calculating a hip roof using the program, you need to fill out the proposed calculator fields: length and width of the base, roof slope, length of side and end overhangs, width, thickness and pitch of the sheathing board, indicate the type of wood and pitch for rafter legs. In addition, to calculate the load, data about the region and type of terrain are entered.


After the online calculator processes the entered data, you will receive information about the compliance of the slope you specified with the standards of the roofing used. If a discrepancy is detected, the program will offer replacement options. In addition, you will receive data on the lifting height, the length of the hip roof ridge, the weight of the roofing covering, the quantity roll material taking into account the length and width of the roll, as well as the required overlap when laying.

The calculator's conclusions also include the roof surface area (this will include the sum of the areas of all slopes, including overhangs of the required length), the amount of roofing and under-roofing material that will be required to construct the roof. The calculated maximum load on the rafter system takes into account the roof structure, the weight of the roofing pie and the entered data on snow and wind loads.

In addition, the program will calculate the hip roof rafter system: it will provide information on the number and dimensions of the side and diagonal rafters, and will also offer the recommended minimum cross-section size for the rafter system, the choice of which will ensure the proper strength of the structure.
Using the calculator's data on the optimal number of rows and sheathing boards, you can avoid possible waste of material, as well as time spent on excessive trimming of lumber. In addition, you will receive information about the amount of board in cubic meters and kilograms.

By using the program for calculating a hip roof, you will not only save time and money, but also receive practical recommendations based on the SNiP “Loads and Impacts” standards and TKP 45-5.05-146-2009 ( Wooden structures. Building codes design).

How to install a hip roof step by step with your own hands: installation video

Assembling a hip roof rafter system is not an easy task, but with strict adherence to the project and practical advice professionals, you can handle the construction yourself. Collateral high-quality installation is the most correct calculation and accurate diagram, following which you can make the correct cuts of the rafter legs and install all structural elements. For example, you can watch a video of the installation stages by finding it on the Internet.

Instructions for constructing a hip roof with your own hands

Before you make a hip roof yourself, you should familiarize yourself with useful recommendations, following which you will not have to doubt the reliability of the structure:

  • intermediate rafter legs have a steeper slope than slanted rafters. In this regard, a board with parameters of at least 5x15 cm is used for them;
  • Short rafters are fixed not to the ridge girder, but to the sloping elements. The angles of inclination of the short and intermediate rafter legs are the same;
  • the lumber used for the ridge purlin and rafter legs must have an identical cross-section. It is by following this design rule that proper strength will be ensured. Otherwise, there is a high probability of deformation;
  • intermediate rafters are attached to the edge of the ridge beam and to the top of the trim;
  • The height of the hip roof can be any, but if the slope is very slight, you should use additional support posts;
  • to extend the service life of the hip structure, it is necessary to use lumber coniferous species, pre-dried and free of defects in the form of knots and cracks. In addition, before starting work, all wooden elements treated with antiseptic compounds.

Marking the future structure

The construction of a hip roof begins with marking the site.

Step 1. From the end of the house building, it is necessary to mark the axis along top harness walls

Step 3. Attach the rail with one end to the intended line, and place the other along the side wall. This way you can mark the location of the intermediate rafter leg.

Step 4. To determine the length of the rafter overhang, it is necessary to place the beam with one end on outside corner, and others - on the roof overhang.

Step 5. To determine the location of the central rafter leg, it is necessary to move the marking strip to the edge of the side wall and fix the location of the central element of the rafter system.

This procedure should be applied to all four corners of the building. In this way, the installation locations for the intermediate rafters and the ends of the ridge girder will be outlined.


Calculation of the rafter system

After marking, it is necessary to calculate the rafter system.

Step 1. Using the slats, it is necessary to determine the horizontal projection of the intermediate rafter leg. From the standards table, find the appropriate roof slope for your case and multiply the values.

Step 2. Measure the length of the rafter leg, and the measurement should be taken along the bottom line from the sampling point on the ridge run to the sampling at the base of the leg.

Step 3. To determine the length of the overhang, it is necessary to multiply the value of the horizontal projection of the rafters by the correction factor from the table of proportions.

Table of proportions and correction factors:

Roof slope Coefficient for corner rafters Coefficient for intermediate rafters
3:12 1,016 1,031
4:12 1,027 1,054
5:12 1,043 1,083
6:12 1,061 1,118
7:12 1,082 1,158
8:12 1,106 1,202
9:12 1,131 1,250
10:12 1,161 1,302
11:12 1,192 1,357
12:12 1,225 1,414

Step 4. Next, you need to calculate the corner rafters. To attach the rafter legs to the ridge beam, oblique cuts are made at the ends of these elements. In turn, the ridge girder also has a double bevel, thanks to which the corner rafters are securely attached to it.

Calculation of slanted rafters is performed in the following sequence:

  • the length of the rafter leg is determined from one of the corners of the house building;
  • the projection is calculated, the value of which is equal to the sum of the squares of the projection of the central rafters;
  • the resulting number is multiplied by the correction factor from the table. This will be the length of the sloped rafter.

Installation of rafter legs

Step 1. First, a ridge beam is installed, which is fixed to support posts. The elements are fixed to the central beam by installing struts.

Step 2. When installing slanted rafter legs, check that the length of all elements is identical. Carefully join the hips, rafters and ridge beams.

Step 3. After the rafter legs have been installed, you should begin installing the ordinary rafter legs, which are placed in increments of about 60 cm. The ordinary rafters are fixed to the mauerlat and the ridge by cutting. To make the fastening reliable, use ties and crossbars.

Step 4. Next, short rafters (springs) are attached to the slanted rafter legs. By means of external elements, the sloped rafters will be connected to the mauerlat. The position of ordinary and external rafters should be perpendicular to the ridge beam.


Strengthening the structure of hip roof rafters

There are several options for strengthening the truss structure:

  • At the corners of the structure, trusses with a vertical stand are attached diagonally, which will protrude additional support for sloped rafters. The sprengel is fixed to the Mauerlat;
  • racks are placed along the tightening board, which will serve as supports for the intermediate rafter legs;
  • if it's mowed rafter leg has a large length, use glued or stacked beams to make it.

Ventilation device

An important step in the construction of a hip roof is the installation of ventilation. The roof is exposed to destructive influences not only from the outside, but also from the inside, where moisture condensation can occur. This occurs due to the temperature difference between the outer and inner surfaces of the roof. High-quality ventilation of the under-roof space will preserve the roof surface long years.


To ensure the proper level of ventilation of the space under the roof, it is necessary to make a hole in the wind protection film for air access. It should be located at a short distance from the ridge run. When using wood for wind hemming, it is laid with a gap of up to 3 mm. In case of use plastic material- practice perforation.

For those cases where the roof wind protection is mounted without a gap, you can embed ordinary ventilation grilles with a diameter of 50 cm into it. They should be placed along the entire length of the wind protection at a distance of about 80 cm from each other. After completing these works, you can begin arranging insulation, waterproofing and laying roofing material.

The installation of a hip structure is a technically complex and painstaking process. It is worth doing the work if you have enough time, experience and knowledge in this area. Any inaccuracy can lead to unreasonable consumption of materials and increased construction costs. If you doubt your abilities, it would be appropriate to seek help from real professionals.

This box of the house (11x13.5 m) must be covered with a gable hip roof and the bay window will be covered with a hip roof. There is a bay window on the side of the end wall.

By upper level An armored belt is installed on the walls of the 2nd floor, to which the Mauerlat will be attached.

Mauerlat installation

First you need to install the power plate and the bed. This is made from timber with a cross section of 200x200 mm.

Installation of Mauerlat and beds

The Mauerlat is installed around the perimeter of the box, and the planks along internal walls. Between the reinforced belt and the Mauerlat it is necessary to install waterproofing in the form of two layers of roofing felt or other waterproofing material.

After this, it is necessary to rigidly fasten the power plate and the harness to the armored belt.

Installation of the main hip roof beams

Main roof beams with a section of 100x200 mm are installed. On the side of the bay window, a beam of 200x200 mm timber is installed. It is necessary to support the hip flaps from the bay window side.

Installation of bay window beams

Bay window beams are installed.

At this stage of work, it is necessary to ensure the same overhang of the cornice from the side of the bay window and from the side of the main house, which should be equal to 0.5 m.

Roof eaves trim

Cornice filing

Installation of support frames and hip roof rafter system

Then you need to install the support frame. The height of the support frame corresponds to the height of the roof.

Installing the support frame

At the top there is a ridge girder made of boards with a section of 50x200 mm. It must be said that the roof can be installed either element by element or as a complex installation.

Rafter truss

When a truss truss is assembled, which is then installed in the design position in a rotating manner. But for this you need to have sufficient quantity workers (min – 4 people), and for element-by-element installation, 2 people are enough.

On the bay window side there is also a ridge purlin and spacer, and on the bay window's central post there is a centering core on which all the bay window rafters will converge.

Ridge purlin from the bay window side

This centering element has a width of 30 cm and a height of approximately 50 cm. It is very important to provide this element as part of the roof as it greatly facilitates installation.

On next stage The rafters of the main roof are installed.

If the rafters are more than 6 m ( standard size lumber) then they will have to be spliced. This is done in the upper part where there will be the least effort.

The next step is to install corner rafters - two on one side and two on the other side. Next, the spigots are installed. The rafters and frames on the main slopes have a cross-section of 50x200 mm. The cross-section of the hip flaps is 50x150 mm. These slopes are steep and there will be no snow here, so there is no need to provide particularly massive structures.

Then the bay window rafters are installed. Their upper edge converges on the centering core.

Installation of hip roof stiffeners

At the next stage, stiffening connections are installed - spacers, supports, tie-downs. These are all kinds of roof elements that provide rigidity and stability to the roof.

Installation of roof stiffeners

Roof stiffness connections

Inside this farm there is an opening measuring approximately 2.2 x 5.5 m and this is quite enough for comfortable attic. At this stage, the roof frame can be considered complete.

All roof elements must be rigidly connected to each other, and all wooden structures must be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics to increase their fire resistance and durability, i.e. their resistance to rotting.

Roof sheathing

The next step is to install the sheathing. First, the main roof is lathed, then a valley bar is installed to connect the main roof and the bay window roof.

Centuries passed, and in peacetime the loopholes changed - they became floor-to-ceiling windows, and now they play decorative role, and also allow you to let more into the house sun rays, which is important in our not very friendly climate. The fashion for buildings with projections appeared in the last century, and this interesting architectural solution is still very popular in private construction.

To be fair, it is worth noting that the construction of such a structure is not a cheap pleasure. It's all about the complexity of designing and building the structure. What is a bay window? This is the part of the room that protrudes beyond the front wall, and is closest in structure to a closed balcony with solid walls, like the main building. You can acquire such a decoration and addition to your home not only during construction, but also by attaching a bay window to an already finished building - and it can be either single-story or multi-story. Complete with a glazed overhang, the house looks original from the outside. Interior design also does not disappoint: the room has an interesting layout, and the room will be brighter thanks to panoramic windows. Due to the bay window, the usable area increases, which is used as an office, recreation area, greenhouse or dining room. The most difficult thing in constructing such an architectural form is the design and installation of the roof, which most often has a complex configuration.

Roof structure The most important rule: the roof of the bay window should be in harmony with the roof of the house, complementing the overall style. Its construction is a difficult task, and sometimes developers with considerable experience refuse to build a house with a bay window area in the plan. Any error in the calculations can lead to the entire structure becoming unreliable. The shape of the bay window can be: rounded; rectangular; multifaceted. The roof is built in accordance with the shape of the bay window. It can be multi-pincer, complex hip, have two or several slopes, and the upper structure is also made in the form of a hemisphere. You can often find decorations in the form of a turret, spire and other elements. Construction of the roof Rafters are selected with a smaller cross-section than for the main roof, since they will take on less load. There are two design options: independent bay window roof; combined with the main roof of the house. Reinforced belt The first stage in roof construction is the installation of a monolithic ring structure made of concrete with a metal mesh frame, which should encircle the walls - follow their contour. The reinforced belt serves as the basis for the rafter system - it creates support for the beams, and also relieves the window lintels, distributes the point load and strengthens the entire structure.

Rafter system The Mauerlat is attached along the perimeter of the armored belt. Roof trusses made of timber or boards mounted on the ground, lifted up and fixed to the ridge. The lower parts of the rafter legs must protrude beyond the wall to organize the eaves overhang. For reinforcement, completely traditional rafter beams, jibs, racks and other elements are used.

The proportions of the roof “skeleton” are extremely important to ensure an attractive appearance. Modern technology 3D modeling greatly facilitates the task of design specialists, allowing them to clearly verify that the slope angle is chosen correctly.

Training video on installing bay window rafters:



Lathing rafters covered waterproofing film, which is fastened without tensioning too much, after which the sheathing is arranged.

It can be continuous or sparse - depending on the type of roofing: the first option is suitable for soft coverings, the second - for metal tiles or any other hard material. The lumber from which the sheathing is made, as well as for the rafter system, is preferable to coniferous species. Roofing The technology for covering a bay window roof is no different from the method of laying roofing material on a conventional upper structure of a house. The only thing that matters is whether the bay window roof will be a separate, independent element or integral part, a continuation of the roof of the main building. Most suitable coating By appearance, tiles are considered - both natural and soft bitumen. In addition, for a small area with several slopes and valleys, you need to choose a coating with a small amount of waste, and shingles meet these requirements.


It is extremely important to pay special attention to waterproofing valleys. Two types of valley strips are used: the top one, which performs decorative functions - it covers unaesthetic cuts; the lower one, which will always be tested for strength: in warm weather, water will flow down it from the slopes, in cold weather, snow will accumulate. Additional use of sealant or sealant will increase the reliability of problem areas. Insulation and vapor barrier are installed last - the work is carried out indoors.

To construct a roof of complex shape, many different fasteners are used - metal plates, studs, self-tapping screws, nails, and screws. Experts advise not to skimp on trifles: by choosing overheated cheap nails or screws, we risk the reliability of the entire structure. You can build a bay window roof with your own hands: you need to carefully prepare the project and think through the construction activities down to the smallest detail. Erected independently or with the involvement of professional contractors, the resulting roof over the bay window will delight you with its original look for many years appearance and provide reliable protection for a bright and spacious interior.


Having decided to build a house, the first thing future home the owner chooses the style of the house. A lot depends on this: the quantity and type of building materials, the complexity and cost of the project, and finally, the appearance of the house and the general feeling of comfort. After all, a family will have to live in a house, receive guests there, fall asleep and wake up... And if there is no comfort, if you don’t like the general style, then how can a house become truly dear, loved, a family hearth and a hole where you come in the most difficult moments of life ?

Let's say you have already decided and chosen the style in which you will build your future home. Will it be permanent place residence or just a place where your family plans to come for the weekend - this does not affect the responsible attitude to construction.

IN last years House designs with a bay window are becoming more and more popular. Tired of cramped Khrushchev buildings with tiny windows, city residents are drawn to the sun and space. And what could be better for this than house designs with a bay window? Photos of projects demonstrated by development companies fully prove this.


Huge, wall-length, semicircular bay window niches make the house solemn and correct in the old-fashioned way. No less popular is the design of a house with a circular bay window - when the niche does not protrude in a semicircle in the wall, but is designed to look like an attached tower, often with a conical tent on top. Circular bay windows are quite appropriate in house designs in the Rococo, castle or medieval style. Although no one is stopping you from building a circular bay window in wooden house- it will be something like an old mansion.

So, what is a bay window? This is the protruding part of the house, usually in a semicircle or prism. Rarely - like a tower. As a rule, the bay window is built to the full height of the floor. It not only looks, but actually increases the area of ​​the house.

The main task of a bay window is that it allows as much light into the room as possible. But this is not the only plus. In the bay window you can arrange flower corner or just put a table and a chair where you can comfortably drink tea in the morning, admiring the sun and the view from the window. Particularly convenient in this regard are houses with two bay windows, projects of which are also available in the portfolio of development companies. There is plenty of room for your imagination to run wild: in one bay window there is a greenhouse, in the other there is a relaxation corner. Or give both bay windows for flowers - lovers of garden delights will like the idea. However, house designs with 2 bay windows will appeal to anyone who prefers comfort combined with beauty.


Bay windows look great in almost any project. And in one-story house this semicircular protrusion is appropriate, and projects two-story houses with a bay window and a competent architect will make you proud of your own home. House designs with an attic and a bay window can be especially successfully implemented. The second floor in such a project will be a work of art.

You can make an attic and a bay window on the same level - the second floor. Then the attic will be filled with sun and become the most comfortable corner in the house. Or you can separate both additions and install a bay window on the first floor. It is difficult to choose designs for two-story houses with a bay window or a project for a one-story house with a bay window, because there are many advantages and disadvantages in each option. But if you decide to country house with a bay window, choosing a project is a pleasure. Think this way and that, mentally or on paper sketch out options for the furnishings of the bay window and its shape, think about color scheme and designing a niche is a wild ride of imagination!


Ready-made house designs with a bay window will cost a little less than original ones, because a bay window in itself is not a cheap pleasure, since it will entail additional costs of both money and building materials. But the expense is justified because you can do it unique house, which no one else will have. Besides, additional area will allow you to receive a house project with a bay window and a balcony or a house project with a bay window and a terrace. In both cases, the area of ​​the house benefits from additional rooms, and much more light is added to the building itself - after all, as a rule, the bay windows are glazed from floor to ceiling.

If you prefer small rooms and chose, for example, a 9 by 9 house project with a bay window, then this structure will add square meters and comfort to your home. However, if you are working on a 10 by 10 house project with a bay window, then the extra meters won’t hurt it either. Especially sunlit and decorated with flowers.

Perhaps this round or cylindrical extension is a very useful addition to the house. This is what makes cottage designs with a bay window so popular. The idea of ​​adding a bay window to a house is not the most ordinary, so most often those who want to add a bay window have to order an original design or develop it themselves. However, it is quite possible to find designs for houses with bay windows for free - there are quite a lot of them on the Internet. Bright, elegant, unique houses in photographs attract the eye and make you want to create the same miracle in your own home. Comfortable and cozy, such houses delight not only those living in them, but also guests, who then, perhaps, will also choose designs for houses and cottages with a bay window.

And, of course, these will be beautiful houses with a bay window, the projects of which any architect-designer will happily undertake to implement.

Often, projects of country houses with a bay window are chosen for consideration by those who dreamed of a castle in childhood, but to build a house in castle style doesn't want to. Bay window – great opportunity partially realize the dream without cluttering the façade and interior with excessive medieval gloom.

How to choose the right cottage designs with a bay window? Photo, perhaps the best option. It will help you visually and technically evaluate all the pros and cons of the chosen option. It’s not the easiest thing to choose designs for houses and cottages with a bay window, especially considering that the whole family will live in it, which means everyone should like it.


If in general there are no objections to the bay window, then you can think about what shape it will be - angular, cylindrical or round. Or maybe even in the shape of a turret? In the corner bay window you can arrange a recreation area, separating it from the room with another floor covering, a screen or light curtain. House designs with a round bay window are more suitable for those who love home greenhouses or elegant niches for drinking tea. And in the bay window tower, children, especially girls, will be able to build their kingdom - for them it will be something like a fairy-tale princess tower.

As for the glazing of the bay window, it can be different. If the bay window in your house is part of the house, then it is unwise to glass completely - heat is lost. But in summer house On the contrary, you can not spare the glass and the sun. Without glazing bay window summer house looks more like a veranda.

Some people may not like the idea of ​​a glass niche - well, tastes vary. Quite a lot of people wouldn’t even think twice about adding a bay window and the sun pouring through it into their interior. And someone will happily let the sun into the house by installing a window that spans the entire wall. By the way, interesting solution will arrange a bay window in the attic. Imagine a house project with a bay window and an attic, photo, drawing. Introduced? Then it will be easy for you to understand what those who like find in this style similar projects. Roofs of houses with a bay window look delightful and impressive, and add considerable benefits to the house. You can, for example, replace attic glass with a bay window - the effect is the same: the room is flooded with sun. And a bay window requires much less costs than a double-glazed window covering the entire wall or roof.

In addition to the sun, which will generously penetrate the room through the bay window, such an architectural solution has many other advantages. Like the attic, the bay window increases the area of ​​the house; the appearance of the building with a bay window is much

More spectacular, more refined than usual. It will be more beautiful than neighboring houses and will certainly attract the attention of passers-by and neighbors. Finally, it is simply convenient: if the glazing does not cover the entire wall, then under the window sill you can arrange hidden niches to store in them what is not needed at the moment. If you have chosen a house project with a bay window and a garage, then it is more logical to arrange the garage just under the bay window. And then it will perfectly accommodate a greenhouse or recreation area: say, a sofa, a table or a table made in the shape of a niche. home cinema- an excellent ensemble for relaxation. Having placed the table and chairs “facing” the glass, you can drink tea while admiring the surroundings.


If space allows, there is a second option: a project for a 2-story house with a bay window or projects for two-story houses with a bay window and a garage. In both cases, the use of additional space is very wide: a relaxation area can be arranged on the ground floor, giving the bay window for another sofa or a winter garden. IN two-story house the garage will easily fit below, without interfering with arranging absolutely any zone in the bay window, whether it’s relaxation or a corner of wildlife.

An important nuance when building a house is the material from which it will be built. A bay window can be added to any house, no matter what it is built from. Some will prefer house designs with brick bay windows, paying tribute to the quality and traditional nature of the material. Projects of brick houses with a bay window are very popular precisely because of their traditional nature and excellent quality material.

But there are a lot of materials, and it is possible that someone will want to choose house designs with a bay window made of aerated concrete in order to be able to build a house on their own. And some will like the designs of houses made of foam blocks with a bay window.

When you decide to build a house with a bay window, you choose the project. The main thing is that the whole family likes living in such a house.

Almost every old house is decorated with an original projection. This protrusion is called a bay window. We see him in the photo. The main advantage of bay windows is their ability to pass a large number of sunlight. In addition, in this recess you can place a beautiful winter garden, create a study or create a relaxation area. Today, house designs with a bay window are also very popular. As a rule, a bay window structure is located in the living room or bedroom, which allows you to expand the space of the rooms and use the room more efficiently.


Features of use

It is impossible to say that a project with a bay window has only positive or only negative qualities. These designs have both sides.

Positive properties

· Extension usable area in the house.

· Lots of sunlight thanks to multiple windows.

· Opportunity to enjoy an excellent view of city streets.

· Unique design which enhances the beauty of your home.

A house made of timber with a bay window looks unusually beautiful. In such a building, a special climate is preserved, which creates a homely, cozy atmosphere.

Negative qualities

· The complexity of the structure increases compared to a simpler project.

· The number of corners in the house increases, which leads to a weakening of the rigidity of the structure.

· A house with a bay window requires additional insulation.

If you want to have a home with a bay window design, you need to be prepared for the fact that achieving comfort will require a little more effort than in a standard house.

Necessity

Perhaps, against the backdrop of all the pros and cons of such a building, the most important positive property one-story house with a bay window, is that in the cold northern parts of the globe, this design allows you to skip maximum amount sunlight into the room, where you can place a bright and warm area for receiving guests. This option can serve as a replacement for the veranda. This is convenient, since in particularly cold countries, building a house with a veranda is an undesirable solution.

Variety of projects

"Double design"

The project of a two-story house with a bay window in the photo is suitable for those who cannot imagine their life without comfortable rest. The design of the building assumes the presence of a wide balcony along the façade on the second floor. There are two exits from the bedrooms to the balcony, one of which is equipped with a bay window. Moreover, the protruding structure does not end on the second floor, but smoothly transitions to the first floor. Thanks to the presence of a volumetric addition, the house looks solid and elegant.


"6*6"

The design of this building stands out against the background of other inexpensive buildings. The project involves an entrance hall, a kitchen, a living room-studio with a bay window and a spacious bedroom on the second floor. As a result, a two-story timber building has total area 36 sq.m., but thanks volumetric design, the house looks original and cozy.

Building with bay window and attic

A small and financially profitable design is a house design that involves the presence of an attic room and a bay window. And although the construction of such a building requires certain financial investments, this combination occurs very often.


Look beautiful and original two-story houses with a bay window, which on the top floor have a luxurious attic. Thanks to this design, home owners have the opportunity to create attic a spacious, bright office, and on the ground floor there is an original winter garden.

When creating a design for houses with a bay window, you must remember that this structure must be designed as accurately as possible. The slightest mistake can lead to distortion of walls and ceilings, which will lead to a decrease in the strength of the structure. You also need to know that it is absolutely not necessary to build a bay window at the same time as the house. The structure shown in the photo can be attached to the main building at any time.

Types of bay windows

In appearance, bay windows can be:

· Corner.

· Wall-mounted.

· Fit into a corner.

Most bay windows have the usual geometric shape. However, this does not mean that the structure cannot have an arbitrary shape. Of course, the creation of atypical projects requires considerable financial costs from home owners.


If you need to create a separate room that will be light and spacious, it is recommended to give preference to corner views. The corner bay window is perceived as a separate zone, not connected to the rest of the housing area. This is an excellent relaxation room.


All buildings with a bay window photo, which we see below, have an original appearance. This is a comfortable, beautiful and elegant extension that transforms any one-story or two-story cottage.

To summarize, it should be noted that the bay window design literally enlivens a boring structure and allows you to reveal the beauty and uniqueness of the structure. Such extensions always create fabulous winter gardens, cozy recreation areas with home cinemas, cozy living rooms and comfortable children's corners. The bay window is a special highlight of the house, allowing you to add aristocracy and sophistication to any structure.


Installation of an armored belt over a bay window

If a roof is being built over a bay window, then the first stage of work is the installation of an armored belt.

This structure performs two functions simultaneously:

· Creates support for the beams holding the rafters;

· Strengthens brickwork and relieves window lintels.

The armored belt is made of concrete with metal mesh reinforcement. If at the same time the level of the bay window walls turns out to be slightly higher than the level of the house walls, it’s okay. The fact is that in the bay window you can use rafter beams of less thickness than for the main roof, such as a standard hip roof.

Preparation of materials

In order to build a bay window roof, you must purchase the following materials:

· Lumber for rafters, rafter beams and sheathing;

· Waterproofing material;

· Nails, self-tapping screws, studs, screws;

· Knitting wire;

· Galvanized plates.

Installation of rafter beams

The next stage of work, when the bay window roof is created, is the installation of rafter beams. For them, you can use timber of the required length or spliced edged boards. Self-tapping screws are used to connect the boards.

Advice! It is advisable to make rafter beams of such length that there is a small margin left. Then, after installation and fastening, the excess can be trimmed along the cord.

Construction of the rafter system

To select the length of the rafters, it is necessary to accurately understand the angle of inclination of the roof being created. Here it is important to maintain the proportions of the roof so that the house does not look like a birdhouse.

To visualize the appearance of a future roof, such as a hip roof, three-dimensional modeling is used during design.


The rafters should be prepared on the ground, after which they are lifted up and sewn together at the roof ridge using self-tapping screws and galvanized backing plates. Next, the two sides of the future “triangle” of the roof are attached to the rafter beams and jibs.

Installation of sheathing

Waterproofing is installed on the finished rafter system. The film should not be installed under tension so that it cannot burst due to temperature changes. Therefore, it is attached with some sagging.

Advice! When using modern waterproofing membranes It is convenient to use a construction stapler for fastening.

Then the sheathing is installed across the rafters. The pitch between the individual elements of the sheathing depends on the type of roofing material chosen. For example, when using metal tiles, the distance between the sheathing boards should correspond to the width of the tile element.


Laying roofing material

Laying roofing material during the construction of a bay window roof is carried out in the same way as when covering a conventional roof. But there is a difficulty in this work - the installation of valleys.

Typically, two types of gutters are required:

· PEN (lower valley strip) is a device used to drain rainwater, which will inevitably accumulate at the junction of the slopes

· PEV (respectively, the upper valley bar) – decorative element for masking cuts on the roof covering.

The valley strips are installed on a special board called the valley. The joints between gutters and roofing material should be treated with sealant. You can also use a universal seal.

The final part of the work

The solution to the question of how to properly install the roof over the bay window does not end with laying the roofing material and installing the valley. The finishing part of the work is carried out indoors.

It is necessary to lay insulation and install a vapor barrier. After which you can move on to interior decoration- hemming the ceiling.

Among roofs for a private home, hip roofs have a good ability to self-clean and withstand strong wind loads. In addition to excellent technical characteristics, the appearance of such structures is impeccable. However, the rafter system of a hip roof has a rather complex structure and requires the correct calculation of all components. Having a competent design and painstaking installation will be the key to a beautiful and high-quality design.

Small holiday home with hip roof structure

Hip roofs: photos of interesting designs

Hip roofs are a type of roof consisting of four slopes and, due to their design features, are highly resistant to strong gusts of wind. This is explained by the fact that instead of gables in houses with a hip roof, hips (inclined triangular slopes) are used, thanks to which the shape becomes more streamlined and the roof itself is durable.

Wooden house with a hipped roof

The absence of gables makes the height of a house with a hip roof visually smaller, but in general, house construction with such a roof looks organic. Photos of one-story houses with a hip roof indicate that often the space directly under the roof is used to create a cozy attic space. To illuminate the attic, full-fledged window structures are located in the roof.

A photo of houses with a hip roof illustrates the neat external contours of the roof, which is often equipped with dormer windows. This makes the roof colorful and interesting in design terms. Hip roofs are usually used for large houses, the base of which forms a rectangle. If the perimeter of the house is square, then another type of hip roof is used - a hip roof.

One-story house with a hip roof

The main feature of a hip roof is that all its slopes have the same shape of an isosceles triangle and an identical angle of inclination. All faces of such a structure converge at one upper point. Hip roofs are also appropriate in houses that have a regular polygon shape. As many sides as there are in a polygon, the roof will have as many symmetrical slopes. From an architectural point of view, such structures are no less attractive.

Another subtype of hip roof is the half-hip roof. This is a combination of a gable and hip model in one design. To give the roof a streamlined shape, the pediment is covered with a small triangular slope (half-hip), the length of which is shortened along the slope. This option ensures that the ridge element of the roof becomes inaccessible to wind currents. When using the space under the roof as an attic, it is possible to install full-fledged windows in the gable part.

Related article:

Half-hip roof rafter system: design and installation features. Calculations and stages of construction. Selection of insulation, insulating layer and roofing material. Algorithm for installing and finishing a half-hip roof.

Hip roofs with a bay window look exceptional. Bay roofs add romance and sophistication to the entire housing construction. You can find roofs with bay windows attached to the main structure or built separately over a wall projection. The main disadvantage of such roofs is the complexity of design and rather expensive installation.

House with a semicircular bay window

To cover a hip structure, you can use almost all modern roofing materials: slate, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, ceramic and bitumen tiles and other materials. The roofing covering is selected taking into account the roof slope, the climate of the region, and the characteristics of the material. In addition, the durability, aesthetics and cost of the coating itself play an important role.

Note! Using sheet roofing material to cover a tent structure will result in a fair amount of waste.

Getting acquainted with the design of a hip roof, you will find that it is quite difficult to coordinate all the slopes with the same slope. Accurate calculations, competent design and theoretical recommendations from professionals are required. But, despite the complexity of constructing the frame, hip roofs are undoubtedly popular among private developers.

Modern house with hip roof

The main advantages of a hip roof

In addition to the original design, hip roofs have a number of advantages that distinguish the design from other models:

  • the absence of gables makes the structure invulnerable to strong wind loads. The smaller the slope of the roof slopes, the less impact wind pressure has on the rafter system;
  • the streamlined shape of all four slopes contributes to the stability of the structure to any type of precipitation;
  • As for the efficiency of energy saving, this design is in many ways superior to gable roofs;
  • It is much easier to insulate a hip roof, since the thermal insulation cake is located under the slopes. In roof models with gables, special insulation of the vertical facade, which is more exposed to wind, is required;
  • the system of slanted, central and outer rafters provides a reliable structure that is resistant to deformation under the influence of external loads;
  • depending on the slope, it is possible to rationally use the space under the hip roof for an attic and install windows in the roof.

Along with its special appearance, the hip roof has high degree reliability and strength

The main disadvantages of hipped models remain the complexity of the hip roof rafter system and the impossibility of arranging an attic in models with a slight slope. However, with proper study of the drawings of hip roofs and construction measures thought out to the smallest detail, the construction of such structures becomes a realistically feasible task.

Hip roof rafter system: main elements

The frame of a hip roof consists of a ridge beam and a system of various rafters. Taking into account the fact that slopes and hips have different slopes, there are several types of rafter legs. The main components of the design include:

  • corner rafters (sloping) - the main load-bearing structural elements located at the corners of the frame. Sloping rafter legs have a smaller slope relative to other intermediate rafters;
  • central rafters - they are attached to the ends of the ridge beam: there are three elements on each side. They are called central intermediate rafters;
  • intermediate rafters - located between the central rafters, starting from the trim and ending at the ridge;

Installation of a hip roof rafter system

  • short rafters (external) - the elements are attached at one end to the slanted rafters, and at the other to the frame. External rafters differ in length, but have the same slope;
  • ridge girder - a horizontally located crossbar that serves as an upper support for the sloping and central rafters;
  • Mauerlat - a beam fixed on top of the external walls. It serves to uniformly distribute the concentrated load of the rafter legs. The Mauerlat is a kind of foundation of the rafter system and connects the roof frame with the walls of the house. Since the roof area is large, such a binding allows the roof not to “fly away” during strong gusts of wind;

Note! When selecting the parameters of the Mauerlat, it is necessary to take into account the ability of the support beam to ensure the stability and reliability of the entire rafter structure.

  • strut - an inclined beam used as a support for long-span rafters, taking up horizontal loads. Using struts, you can cover a significantly larger span and save the cross-section of the main load-bearing beams. In the design of hip roofs, the angle of inclination of the struts is 45 or 60 degrees;

Hip roof rafters

  • babaka - a vertical support on which the rafter legs rest;
  • tie - a wooden beam that acts as an additional support for the rafter legs and prevents them from moving apart. For tightening, a beam of smaller cross-section is usually used than for rafters;
  • sprengel - horizontal elements laid diagonally in the corners of the walls. The sprengel acts as a support for the rack for the sloped rafters. This element is used in cases where it is not technically possible to install a rack on the ceiling;
  • sheathing is a layer of small-section boards that are laid perpendicularly on top of the rafters. Acts as a base for roofing. The sheathing boards are laid in small increments (approximately one board). Where the valley or cornice is located, the sheathing is continuous;
  • counter-lattice - elements installed on top and parallel to the rafters before the sheathing. Serve to create a ventilation gap between the sheathing, waterproofing and roofing material;
  • filly - a small piece of board, with the help of which the rafter leg is extended to create a cornice overhang. It is designed to drain rain and melt water from the walls of the house, as well as protect the base and slopes from slanting rain.

Hip roof rafter system

In the photo of the hip roof rafter system you can see that the ridge girder is located strictly in the center and parallel to the load-bearing walls of the house. In addition, the beginning and end of the run must be at the same distance from the end walls. This arrangement will ensure uniform distribution of the load, and, consequently, the stability of the structure.

Scheme of the hip roof rafter system

Hip hip roofs are more difficult to construct than conventional gable roofs. This is explained by the difficulty of accurately joining all four slopes at the required slope. Such roofs have two large trapezoid-shaped slopes and two triangle-shaped end slopes. When forming a rafter system, the main difficulties in installing a hip roof arise.

The design of a house with a hip roof takes into account that the slope of the slopes should be in the range from 10 to 60 degrees. The choice of inclination angle is influenced by the amount of precipitation, the material of the roofing, as well as whether the under-roof space will be used as an attic space. In regions with high rainfall, the slope should be at least 45 degrees.

The hip roof diagram must provide for the cross-sectional shape, dimensions and exact location of all structural elements of the frame. In addition, the drawings of the hip roof rafter system reflect the length of the ridge purlin, the height of the roof, the angle of inclination of the slopes, the width of the spans, methods of strengthening the structure and the specifics of fastening the elements.

Schematic design of a hip roof

Considering that the slanted rafter legs are long and provide support for the framers, they need to be strengthened. To do this, a sprengel is used, the beam of which is cut into the mauerlat, and the oblique leg is supported with a stand. To strengthen the rafter system, they use a wind beam. It is fixed on the inside of the central rafters diagonally, mainly on the windy side of the house.

In the case when the rafters have a length of more than 4.5 m, diagonal struts are used to strengthen them, the use of which allows you to choose beams of a smaller cross-section for the rafters. The struts rest against the tie rods (floor beams), which prevent the rafters from moving apart. If the ties are attached closer to the ridge beam, they can serve as a base for the attic ceiling cladding.

Helpful advice! The closer the tie beams are attached to the ridge girder, the more powerful the rafter system fastenings should be.

The rafter diagram for a hip roof substantiates the feasibility of using layered or hanging rafters, as well as the use of additional reinforcing elements. If during calculations it turns out that the parameters of the beam do not correspond to the required load, it is possible to use glued or stacked rafter beams. These modified elements are much more massive and can be longer.

Rafter system of a house with a hip roof

If the house construction does not have an intermediate load-bearing wall, then hanging rafter legs are used, which rest on only two supports (on two walls of the house). In this case, the rafters experience compression and bending loads. Due to the fact that the rafter legs create a pushing force on the walls, a wooden tie is used, which connects the rafters together. It is usually installed below at the base of the rafter legs.

When a building has an intermediate load-bearing wall or middle support pillars, a layered rafter scheme is used. In this option, the rafters rest at one end on the outer walls, and for the middle part of the legs, the support is columns or an internal load-bearing wall. With this design, the rafter elements bend, like a beam.

Compared to a roof that uses hanging rafters, a structure with layered rafter legs is lighter. The construction of such a roof requires less materials, which reduces construction costs. It is possible to use a combined rafter system in one structure. This happens when one part of the house has an internal load-bearing wall, and the other does not. To install a roof over such a building, both rafter options are used.

Scheme of wooden layered rafters with emphasis on one purlin for a hip roof

The rafter pattern for a hip roof with offset is used when it is necessary to increase the eaves. In this case, the rafter legs will rest against the floor beams. When installing a hip roof with the rafters supported on the floor beams, such an element as the Mauerlat can be completely excluded from the structural design. Instead, it is proposed to use wooden leveling spacers.

Hip roof rafter system with bay window

Quite popular in private construction is the construction of house walls with bay windows (protrusions). This is a very interesting architectural solution, however, the projects of such houses are characterized by the complexity of design and construction of the structure. A bay window can be erected not only during construction, but also attached to an existing building. The ledge can be single-story or multi-story.

It is worth noting that the most difficult thing in building houses of this architectural form is the design and installation of a hip roof with a bay window. The basic rule is that the roof of the bay window should harmoniously support the main roof of the building, forming a general style. It is very difficult to build a bay roof, so not everyone will decide to build such a house. The slightest inaccuracy in calculations can lead to the design being unreliable.

The structure of a hip roof with a bay window of various shapes

The shape of the roof for it depends on what shape the protrusion has (rounded, multifaceted, rectangular). It can be a hip, multi-gable, gable structure or a hemispherical roof. Sometimes a spire-shaped roof is erected over the bay window.

There are two types of roof over the bay window: an independent overhang roof or combined with the roof of the main building. For the bay window rafter system, a material with a smaller cross-section is used than for the rafter legs of the main roof structure. This is due to the fact that these elements will take less load.

The technology for laying the roof covering over the bay window is identical to the method for covering the main roof. It is recommended to use tiles, since a small area with several slopes requires a material that would leave a minimum amount of waste when used. Bituminous or ceramic tiles meet this requirement. To calculate metal tiles for a hip roof, you can use a special calculator.

Installation of metal tiles

When constructing roofs with a bay window, special attention should be paid to the valleys. They are used in two types of construction - the upper valley strip and the lower one. One covers unsightly cuts, the other will allow sediment to flow down. In addition, professionals do not advise saving on fasteners (screws, nails, studs, plates). They must be purchased in the right quantity and of good quality.

Helpful advice! To increase the reliability of problem areas of a hip structure with a bay window, sealant and sealant should be used in these places.

You can learn about the construction features of the structure from the video of the installation of a hip roof with a bay window.

Metal tiles for a hip roof with a bay window

DIY hip roofs: drawings and photos, sketches and design calculations

Before you start building a hip roof with your own hands, you need to complete the drawings and make a correct calculation of the entire structure. It would be a good idea to seek help from a specialist who has experience in this field and can optimally select the angle of inclination and make calculations. Considering that the roof structure may contain broken lines and irregularities, it will be difficult to accurately calculate all the constituent elements.

Before you make a hip roof with your own hands, even of the simplest design, you will need to develop a hip roof project with drawings and sketches. This will help determine the shape of the roof and make it possible to correctly calculate the required amount of materials for construction. To carry out the design, you can use the following recommendations:

  • You should measure the height, length and width of the house. According to the data obtained, draw a schematic diagram of the facade and end of the house on a convenient scale. Several copies of such sketches must be made;
  • when determining the optimal height of the hip roof in relation to the house and the slope of the roof slopes, it is necessary to display several options for the roof contour on one of the sketches. Next, you should choose the most successful one, and use a protractor to determine the angle of inclination of the slopes of the future design;

Project of a hip roof, where A1 is the width of the base, A2 is the width of the foundation, B is the rise height, C is the length of the overhang, D is the length of the base

  • The next step will be to mark the position of the layered rafters on the marking diagram - mark the points in these places. We divide the length of the wall indicated in the diagram into equal sections - this will be the step between the beams. It can be from 40 cm to 2 m. But it must be taken into account that quite often installed rafter legs will entail excessive consumption of material, and a large step between the rafters will cause the use of structural reinforcement elements;
  • when determining the length of the ridge, it is necessary to take into account that the purlin must connect a pair of rafter legs. On one of the sketches it is necessary to mark equal segments from each edge of the wall;
  • the resulting diagrams are transferred to the general diagram, after which the amount of material required can be calculated. The length of the rafter legs is determined on the outside, based on the length of the eaves overhangs (about 50 cm).

Helpful advice! In order for the roof structure to be strong and durable, it is necessary to purchase well-dried lumber.

An example of the layout of hip roof rafters

Based on the number of rafter legs, you can calculate the number of fasteners. All joint fastenings will use nails. There are two mounting angles for each rafter leg. When preparing material, you should make a small reserve in case the material is damaged. If the house is made of brick or blocks, you need to purchase timber for installing the Mauerlat.

Selecting the slope angle

When determining the angle of inclination of a hip roof, the climatic conditions in which construction is carried out should be taken into account. If the climate is hot, dry and windy, the slope should be minimal to prevent overheating and avoid additional load. In areas with heavy snowfall, the slope is increased for unimpeded snow removal.

In addition, when choosing the angle of a hip roof, you should take into account the roofing material, each type of which has restrictions on the slope of the slopes:

  • slate – the covering is used for roof slopes from 13 to 60 degrees. If the angle of inclination is less than 13 degrees, then moisture will seep into the joints, and in winter snow will get in. This will lead to a significant reduction in the life of the roof;
  • ceramic tiles - the optimal slope for this material is from 30 to 60 degrees. When laying tiles on a roof with a slope of less than 25 degrees, measures should be taken to improve ventilation and waterproofing;

Choosing the angle of the roof slopes

  • metal tiles - when laying this material, the maximum angle of inclination is not standardized, the minimum is 15 degrees;
  • bitumen shingles - the coating is used for roofs with a slope of over 12 degrees. The maximum inclination angle is unlimited. The material perfectly follows the shape of any surface;
  • bitumen slate - sheets of this material are used with a slope of 5 degrees. There is no maximum value, however, the pitch of the sheathing will depend on the angle of inclination, and with a slope of 5 to 10 degrees it is necessary to arrange a continuous flooring;
  • steel seam roofing – laid on slopes of 20 degrees or more. There is no maximum tilt angle limitation.

An increase in the angle of inclination helps to increase the roof area, which will entail additional costs for building materials. Therefore, if it is fundamentally important to save materials, then this should be taken into account when drawing up drawings.

Features of calculating the area of ​​a hip roof

To determine the required amount of roofing material to cover a hip roof, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​the surface to be covered.

Calculation of the hip roof area of ​​a private house

The calculation requires the following data:

  • the existing dormers and chimney pipes in the roof are taken into account, since their presence requires an increase in the consumption of roofing material;
  • the length of the slope from the bottom of the ridge to the edge of the eaves overhang is determined;
  • firewall walls, parapets, overhangs and other elements are calculated;
  • The calculation does not take into account the abutments of the canvases, standing seams, and protruding elements of the bars.

Helpful advice! If rolled material or metal tiles are used for covering, when determining the surface area, it is necessary to reduce the length of the roof slopes by 70 cm.

To obtain accurate data on the roof area, you can seek help from specialists or use modern programs that will make the most accurate calculation. But if you still decide to do this yourself, you need to conditionally divide the entire surface into separate elements, the area of ​​which can be easily calculated mathematically, and then sum up the resulting values.

The more accurately the area is determined, the lower the likelihood of acquiring excess material and wasting finances. The amount of materials required for construction must be fixed at the design stage of a one-story house with a hip roof. The cost of these materials also includes the roofing, so the cost of building the house as a whole depends on the correct calculation of the roof surface area.

Two-story house with a hip roof

To calculate the area, you need to use the hip roof plan. You should also take into account the technical characteristics of the roofing covering (thickness, length) and methods of its installation. The thickness of the material affects the weight of the coating, and knowing the length and width of the material, you can arrange it with the least amount of waste and joining lines.

For clarity, you can analyze the use of ceramic or flexible tiles as roofing materials. Ceramic tiles are a heavy material and weigh 5 times more than flexible tiles. Laying flexible tiles does not require a rafter system or frequent lathing, but it is necessary to lay solid plywood or other material underneath. Therefore, in order to determine the cost of the entire construction and choose the most profitable material, it is necessary to calculate the hip roof.

The total cost of construction will undoubtedly be influenced by the area of ​​the hip roof, but it is also worth taking into account the complexity of constructing the structure itself, especially when it comes to arranging an attic space. The complexity of the calculation will be influenced by elements such as dormer windows, ventilation openings, chimneys, etc.

For example, you can calculate the area of ​​a hipped roof. With a roof drawing, calculations are much more convenient and the required values ​​will be more accurate. The diagrams show that the base for the roof is a rectangle, two slopes are an isosceles triangle, the other two are trapezoids.

Diagram of a hip roof, where L1 is length, L2 is width

In this case, the tangent of the angle of inclination of the triangular face is equal to the ratio of h (the height of the roof) to ½ of the value of b (the length of the base of the triangle). So, we determine the height of the roof by the expression:

h = (b tan α)/2.

The length of the side rafter leg (e) can be determined using the angle of inclination:

e = b/2 cos α.

Using the Pythagorean Theorem, you can determine the length of the slanted rafter legs (d):

The total area of ​​the entire roof is calculated by summing the areas of all the constituent elements of the surface of the hip roof, namely four triangles and two rectangles:

S = 4(eb/2)+2(a-b)e = 2e(b+a-b) = 2ea.

Construction of a hipped hip roof

Hip roof area calculator

Due to the fact that not everyone can independently calculate all the parameters of a roof, the websites of companies specializing in the construction of roofs and the sale of roofing materials offer the use of an online calculator. With its help, you can find out the exact amount of lumber, insulation and roofing materials, as well as calculate the length and cross-section of the rafters for the selected type of structure.

By using an online calculator with drawings and diagrams to calculate a hip roof, you can determine how optimal the slope of the slopes is relative to a particular roofing covering, and whether the cross-section of the timber can withstand the current wind and snow loads on the rafter system in your region.

Before calculating a hip roof using the program, you need to fill out the proposed calculator fields: length and width of the base, roof slope, length of side and end overhangs, width, thickness and pitch of the sheathing board, indicate the type of wood and pitch for rafter legs. In addition, to calculate the load, data about the region and type of terrain are entered.

Helpful advice! When working in the program, please note that opposite each field to be filled in there is a “?” icon. By clicking on it, you can find explanations for the specific parameter being entered.

Hip roof design

After the online calculator processes the entered data, you will receive information about the compliance of the slope you specified with the standards of the roofing used. If a discrepancy is detected, the program will offer replacement options. In addition, you will receive data on the lifting height, the length of the hip roof ridge, the weight of the roofing, the amount of roll material taking into account the length and width of the roll, as well as the required overlap during installation.

The calculator's conclusions also include the roof surface area (this will include the sum of the areas of all slopes, including overhangs of the required length), the amount of roofing and under-roofing material that will be required to construct the roof. The calculated maximum load on the rafter system takes into account the roof structure, the weight of the roofing pie and the entered data on snow and wind loads.

In addition, the program will calculate the rafter system of a hip roof: it will provide information on the number and sizes of side and diagonal rafters, and will also offer a recommended minimum cross-section for the rafter system, the choice of which will ensure the proper strength of the structure.
Using the calculator's data on the optimal number of rows and sheathing boards, you can avoid possible waste of material, as well as time spent on excessive trimming of lumber. In addition, you will receive information about the amount of board in cubic meters and kilograms.

By using the program for calculating a hip roof, you will not only save time and money, but also receive practical recommendations based on the SNiP “Loads and Impacts” standards and TKP 45-5.05-146-2009 (Wooden structures. Building design standards).

How to install a hip roof step by step with your own hands: installation video

Assembling a hip roof truss system is not an easy task, but if you strictly follow the project and practical advice from professionals, you can handle the construction yourself. The key to high-quality installation is the most correct calculation and accurate diagram, following which you can make the correct cuts in the rafter legs and install all structural elements. For example, you can watch a video of the installation stages by finding it on the Internet.

Instructions for constructing a hip roof with your own hands

Before you make a hip roof yourself, you should familiarize yourself with useful recommendations, following which you will not have to doubt the reliability of the structure:

  • intermediate rafter legs have a steeper slope than slanted rafters. In this regard, a board with parameters of at least 5x15 cm is used for them;
  • Short rafters are fixed not to the ridge girder, but to the sloping elements. The angles of inclination of the short and intermediate rafter legs are the same;
  • the lumber used for the ridge purlin and rafter legs must have an identical cross-section. It is by following this design rule that proper strength will be ensured. Otherwise, there is a high probability of deformation;
  • intermediate rafters are attached to the edge of the ridge beam and to the top of the trim;
  • The height of the hip roof can be any, but if the slope is very slight, you should use additional support posts;
  • To extend the service life of the hip structure, it is necessary to use softwood lumber that is pre-dried and free of defects in the form of knots and cracks. In addition, before starting work, all wooden elements are treated with antiseptic compounds.

Installation of hip roof rafter system

Marking the future structure

The construction of a hip roof begins with marking the site.

Step 1. From the end of the house building, it is necessary to mark an axis along the top frame of the walls.

Helpful advice! To avoid errors when marking an object, it is recommended to use a special measuring rod on which all required dimensions. It can be cut, for example, from a strip of plywood. The recommended width of the slats is 5 cm.

Step 3. Attach one end of the batten to the marked line, and place the other along the side wall. This way you can mark the location of the intermediate rafter leg.

Step 4. To determine the length of the rafter overhang, it is necessary to place the beam with one end on the outer corner and the other on the roof overhang.

Step 5. To determine the location of the central rafter leg, you need to move the marking strip to the edge of the side wall and fix the location of the central element of the rafter system.

This procedure should be applied to all four corners of the building. In this way, the installation locations for the intermediate rafters and the ends of the ridge girder will be outlined.

Hip roof rafter design

Calculation of the rafter system

After marking, it is necessary to calculate the rafter system.

Step 1. Using a lath, you need to determine the horizontal projection of the intermediate rafter leg. From the standards table, find the appropriate roof slope for your case and multiply the values.

Step 2. Measure the length of the rafter leg, and the measurement should be taken along the bottom line from the sampling point on the ridge run to the sampling at the base of the leg.

Step 3. To determine the length of the overhang, you need to multiply the value of the horizontal projection of the rafters by the correction factor from the proportions table.

Table of proportions and correction factors:

Roof slope Coefficient for corner rafters Coefficient for intermediate rafters
3:12 1,016 1,031
4:12 1,027 1,054
5:12 1,043 1,083
6:12 1,061 1,118
7:12 1,082 1,158
8:12 1,106 1,202
9:12 1,131 1,250
10:12 1,161 1,302
11:12 1,192 1,357
12:12 1,225 1,414

Helpful advice! When making calculations, you can use the Pythagorean Theorem, in which c² = a² + b², where a and b are the vertical and horizontal projections, respectively.

Step 4. Next you need to calculate the corner rafters. To attach the rafter legs to the ridge beam, oblique cuts are made at the ends of these elements. In turn, the ridge girder also has a double bevel, thanks to which the corner rafters are securely attached to it.

Calculation of slanted rafters is performed in the following sequence:

  • the length of the rafter leg is determined from one of the corners of the house building;
  • the projection is calculated, the value of which is equal to the sum of the squares of the projection of the central rafters;
  • the resulting number is multiplied by the correction factor from the table. This will be the length of the sloped rafter.

Wooden hip roof rafter system

Installation of rafter legs

Step 1. First, the ridge beam is installed, which is secured to the support posts. The elements are fixed to the central beam by installing struts.

Step 2. When installing the slanted rafter legs, check that the length of all elements is identical. Carefully join the hips, rafters and ridge beams.

Step 3. After the rafter legs have been installed, you should begin installing the ordinary rafter legs, which are placed in increments of about 60 cm. The ordinary rafters are fixed to the mauerlat and the ridge by cutting. To make the fastening reliable, use ties and crossbars.

Helpful advice! When installing ordinary rafters, avoid their contact with the studs that secure the Mauerlat to the ends of the walls.

Step 4. Next, short rafters (springs) are attached to the slanted rafter legs. By means of external elements, the sloped rafters will be connected to the mauerlat. The position of ordinary and external rafters should be perpendicular to the ridge beam.

Installation of hip roof rafters

Strengthening the structure of hip roof rafters

There are several options for strengthening the truss structure:

  • At the corners of the structure, trusses with a vertical stand are attached diagonally, which will act as additional support for the slanted rafters. The sprengel is fixed to the Mauerlat;
  • racks are placed along the tightening board, which will serve as supports for the intermediate rafter legs;
  • if the slanted rafter leg is long, use glued or stacked beams to make it.

Ventilation device

An important step in the construction of a hip roof is the installation of ventilation. The roof is exposed to destructive influences not only from the outside, but also from the inside, where moisture condensation can occur. This occurs due to the temperature difference between the outer and inner surfaces of the roof. High-quality ventilation of the under-roof space will preserve the roof surface for many years.

Scheme of under-roof ventilation

To ensure the proper level of ventilation of the space under the roof, it is necessary to make a hole in the wind protection film for air access. It should be located at a short distance from the ridge run. When using wood for wind hemming, it is laid with a gap of up to 3 mm. In the case of using plastic material, perforation is practiced.

For those cases where the roof wind protection is mounted without a gap, you can embed ordinary ventilation grilles with a diameter of 50 cm into it. They should be placed along the entire length of the wind protection at a distance of about 80 cm from each other. After completing these works, you can begin arranging insulation, waterproofing and laying roofing material.

The installation of a hip structure is a technically complex and painstaking process. It is worth doing the work if you have enough time, experience and knowledge in this area. Any inaccuracy can lead to unreasonable consumption of materials and increased construction costs. If you doubt your abilities, it would be appropriate to seek help from real professionals.