Laying tiles on a plank floor. How to correctly lay tiles on a wooden floor

If the question is whether it is possible to lay tiles on wooden floor in the bathroom, kitchen or other living space, the properties of the materials and their compatibility should be taken into account. In order for tiling to serve for a long time, it is necessary to prepare solid foundation, which will not be deformed. For this reason the best way suitable for this purpose concrete screed floor.

However, this is not a hard limitation. If desired, it is permissible to use other materials (plank structure as a base or particle boards). However, in this case, you need to follow the technology for laying tiles and porcelain stoneware.

Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

When combining ceramics and wood, moisture-resistant plywood or other wood-containing materials, a number of problems arise, in particular:

• various indicators of thermal conductivity are noted, for example, wood retains heat better than tiles;
• laying tiles on a wooden floor can cause rotting of the base, which is due to the ability of wood to “breathe” (pass air), while ceramics, on the contrary, do not exhibit such properties, which means that over time the process of destruction of the wood may begin, as a result the tile covering is also deformed, since the floor will lose its static nature;
• the service life of a wooden structure is much shorter than that of tiles, which reduces the service life of the floor covering;
• wood is subject to linear expansion, which is another factor contributing to the destruction of the base, since if rough boards change in size, lose shape, and along with them the integrity is disrupted floor tiles, since this type of material is more prone to cracks under the influence of tensile force;
• Another factor that indicates the incompatibility of ceramics and wood is the need to arrange a static rough foundation, which makes it possible to avoid all of the above consequences.

If for some reason only wood is considered as a material for flooring and tiles for cladding, such a combination can be used. However, in this case it is necessary to ensure suitable conditions to avoid the appearance of defects and pay special attention to the strength of the base.

So, when choosing a material (wood or particle boards), its quality is checked. There should be no rot or knots on the boards. Only beams of equal size are selected. As a result, tile distortion can be avoided. At correct installation the foundation should be provided with a sufficient level of staticity.

In addition, it is possible to reduce the intensity of the negative manifestation of the difference in the linear expansion of materials. The desired result is achieved by using an adhesive composition that has suitable properties.

If you lay the tiles correctly using an adhesive containing polymer additives, you can do without a screed.

In a private home, ventilation is important, allowing air flow to circulate without delay. Violation of this process entails the appearance of dampness. If the waterproofing is not done well enough, the tree will soon be destroyed due to the developing process of rotting. Helps reduce the risk of this phenomenon high-quality protection from moisture. If all these recommendations are taken into account, the cladding will last a long time.

Preparing the base

A wooden floor in a private house is characterized by complex design. Considering the difficulties described above that arise when installing the cladding, it is necessary to more carefully prepare the base. Before making a screed or taking on the final flooring, it is necessary to assess the condition of the boards and joists.

An external inspection will not provide the required result, since major defects (cracks, mold, rot, etc.) may be hidden inside the structure.

Checking the condition of the coating

It is recommended to remove the boards covering the base. This measure will provide the desired result, provided that you plan to lay tiles on an old wooden floor. If the base is new, and the cladding is installed immediately after completing the work on the rough structure, there is no need to additionally check the condition of the boards.

It is a mistake to believe that the absence of extraneous sounds when walking (creaks, etc.), as well as the strong fastening of the boards, is a sign of the reliability of the base. Some problems can only be identified after opening the upper floorboards, for example: the presence of mold, non-compliance with the technology for laying joists (increasing the distance between the beams). When the logs are installed in violation of the standards (there should be 50 cm between them), the entire structure is shifted. This rule should be followed, since the surface of the finished floor should be smooth.

Antiseptic treatment

Preparing a wooden floor involves the need to process the material. For this purpose, special compounds are used to prevent rotting and destruction of wood, for example, antiseptics and fire retardants. It is advisable to assemble the base for the tiles from pre-treated lumber. At the same time, a special composition penetrates into any cracks, covers the boards on all sides, reducing the risk of damage to the wood due to developing mold.

Leveling the surface

To lay tiles, you need to make sure that the design meets the requirements. For example, when installing joists, as well as during the process of laying a finished floor (plank flooring), it is recommended to constantly check the position of the boards using a building level.

The slightest distortion will lead to a reduction in the service life of the cladding.

Moreover, during the installation of the logs, it is permissible to place wedges to level the structure, since in this case problems may arise. significant shortcomings subfloor, which is soil cover or concrete screed. And the boardwalk is leveled after fixing it on the joists. In this case, improvement of the surface quality of the finished floor is carried out by grinding. Special tool cut off areas that protrude above the surface of the boards (knots, waves).

Sealing cracks and joints

If general state The wood is normal, but there are several defects (cracks, crevices), additional expenses can be avoided and leaks can be eliminated. This solution is used only when the design flaws are minor. This is done to prevent the gap from growing. Significant defects are eliminated by replacing a separate (deformed) beam/board. Other shortcomings of the subfloor are hidden in different ways:

• the use of sealant, in this case, provides not only a cosmetic, but also a waterproofing effect, since thanks to this composition, the likelihood of moisture penetration through joints or between the wall and the base is reduced;
• construction foam, sometimes foam fractions are added to the gap, but this measure is effective only in cases where the defect is large, then the first step is to fill the leak with foam, the next step is sealing with foam;
• Helps remove minor blemishes paint material on oil based, it is pre-mixed with fine-grained wood shavings, as a result, a composition of dense consistency is obtained, which not only can fill cracks, but also provides reliable protection from moisture;
• slats and wedges are used to eliminate large defects, this measure allows you to reduce the consumption of associated materials, strengthen the structure without the need to replace its element, and this method can be used in combination with others (putty, sealant), with the help of wedges a significant part of the leak is filled, the remaining the space is filled with any suitable composition (usually putty);
• using cord or tow: this method does not provide protection from moisture and does not increase the strength of the structure, however, it can be used to seal the board covering (cord is more often used to fill joints);
• wood putty: it is permissible to use only a special composition that matches the properties of wood, otherwise adhesion will be low and the material will not show waterproofing properties.

Replacing the coating

The old boardwalk is removed. At this stage, the position of the joists is checked; if there are irregularities, they are eliminated using wedges and additional boards with smaller dimensions. The new flooring is laid only after the gaps between the joists are filled with expanded clay. This measure helps strengthen the structure. In addition, expanded clay fractions intensively retain heat in the room.

A gap of at least 5 cm thick is left between the bulk material and the boardwalk.

Paul in wooden house It is mounted with leaks, due to which air circulation inside the structure is normalized. However, in cases where it is planned to lay tiles, the gaps between the boards can be minimal.

Leveling the surface

If the methods discussed above (grinding, replacing boards or beams) are impractical to use for some reason (there is no special equipment for removing a layer of wood, there is no possibility of installing new boards), you can consider other options based on the use of sheets of moisture-resistant gypsum fiber board (plasterboard), particle boards (plywood, chipboard). You can also fill the screed with your own hands. This is the most suitable method, as it ensures static, reliable coverage.

Plywood or chipboard

This option allows you to level and strengthen the surface of the subfloor. However, porcelain tiles or porcelain tiles are not laid over untreated plywood sheets. It should be protected from moisture contained in the adhesive. It is also impossible to lay ceramic tiles on fiberboard/chipboard without a special coating.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing wood-based material before installing the cladding:

1. Latex is applied to the impregnated sheet (but only on one side).
2. Without waiting for the composition to dry, lay the painting mesh.
3. When the latex is completely dry, the mesh along with a sheet of plywood/fibreboard/chipboard is fixed to the subfloor using self-tapping screws.
4. A mixture of several components is prepared: liquid glass, sand, water (ratio 2:2:1).
5. The resulting composition is applied over the mesh, after which the installation of the tiles can begin.

CSP board (cement-bonded particle board) withstands exposure to water better than others. This option is advisable to use when arranging a bathroom floor in a wooden house. It is suitable for the toilet, kitchen and other rooms where the air humidity level is often increased.

Before laying drywall over wooden joists, he must rest indoors for at least 24 hours before starting work.

A multilayer structure will allow you to strengthen the structure and provide a static base. When installing the second layer, you need to take into account the need to bandage the seams. This means that there should not be less than 20 cm between the edges of the sheets of the first and second layer. In order to lay the floor tiles, 3 layers of plasterboard are laid. They are attached with glue. Additionally, the sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws of sufficient length. After puttying, the tiles are laid on the DSP.

Dry screed

This method has the advantage of no contact of wood with moisture, which negatively affects the properties of such a material. In this case, ready-made plasterboard blocks (GVL) are used. They are made in the form of a multilayer structure. Moreover, such blocks take into account the dressing of seams.

The principle of laying products of this type is similar to how plywood is laid on a wooden floor, but there is no need to seal the joints.

Wet screed

Instructions for performing the screed:

1. The condition of the logs and planks is assessed, and it is important to leave a gap of at least 1 cm between the base beams and the wall, which compensates for the linear expansion of the wood under the influence of moisture.
2. The distance between the flooring boards is 1 cm, the thickness of the lumber is 4 cm, it is pre-treated with an antiseptic.
3. Performed laying CBPB, the distance between the plates is up to 3 mm; self-tapping screws are used to fix them.
4. Waterproofing material is laid on top.
5. A damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room.
6. Concrete is being poured.
7. At the last stage you can lay the tiles.

Waterproofing

If you plan to install the cladding in a bathhouse or other room with high humidity, it is prohibited to use coloring compounds. Under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, the paint will crack and lose its properties. Available and effective options:

• A mixture of liquid glass, sand and water. However, this option is used when laying tiles on chipboard/fibreboard or plywood (the method was described above).
• Impregnation deep penetration. Due to its properties, this composition provides reliable protection from a humid environment, but the cost of implementing this method is the highest. The advantage is the ability to immediately proceed to the installation of tiles.
• Rolled insulating materials. Thick polyethylene, bitumen paper. These are short-lived options. Over time, the integrity of the coatings is compromised and they lose their properties.
• Sheet materials. Materials used to level the floor are also used as waterproofing: moisture-resistant plasterboard, concrete mortar. However, it is still necessary to lay dense polyethylene under the screed, which reduces the reliability of this method: due to regular linear expansion, the film is deformed, and moisture penetrates through the leaks that appear.

Choosing the right adhesive

To lay porcelain stoneware or tiles on the floor, consider mixtures suitable for installing these materials. When choosing, it is important to consider the ability of the mixture to withstand the expansion of the boards. If you miss this moment, cracks will soon appear in the cladding.

To compensate for the linear expansion of wood, special tile adhesive is used. It must contain polymer additives. A high elasticity index is the second most important criterion after compliance with the type decorative covering. You can stick tiles onto a concrete floor (screed over a wooden structure) using a cement-based compound.

• and others.

Preparation of tools and materials

To carry out work on wood, with cement (if it is planned to fill the wooden structure with concrete), preparation is carried out with waterproofing. You will need:

• roulette;
• building level;
• stationery knife;
• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws of the required length and in sufficient quantity (calculation is carried out taking into account the pitch when the fasteners are located at least 20 cm);
• notched spatula;
• crosses (limiters);
• electric drill;
• sealant is used to protect the joints;
• roll, coating or impregnation waterproofing (the choice is made taking into account the type of material to be coated);
• wood in sufficient quantity;
• antiseptic composition;
• if required, damper tape (when screeding is planned);
• ingredients for preparing concrete: cement, sand;
• rule;
• adhesive composition;
• grout for seams.

Laying technology

Assess the room for the presence of free zones where the cladding is best visible. It is recommended to start work from one of these areas, since here you will not have to cut the tiles. After pre-layout cladding, the room is divided into zones; for clarity, they are separated from each other by a coated cord. This will make your work easier. The adhesive composition is prepared immediately before laying the tiles.

The glue is applied either to the floor or to the back of the porcelain tiles/tiles. Then the tiles are laid in accordance with the previously drawn up sketch. Cross-shaped stops are installed between adjacent products. During the process, the position of the products is regularly checked using a level. When the glue dries, it is recommended to grout the seams.

Installation of heated floors in a wooden house under tiles

Electric cables and water heating systems are installed according to slightly different schemes. A warm electric floor is installed according to the following instructions:

1. The subfloor is being installed.
2. Waterproofing is being laid.
3. Thermal insulation material is laid between the joists.
4. Fix the reinforcing mesh.
5. The cable is laid out on top and secured with clamps.
6. After this, the finished floor is installed, for which particle boards can be used. In this case, it is better to glue the tiles to the plywood using heat-resistant glue.
7. After this you can lay out the tiles.

Water systems are connected to centralized heating, which is associated with a number of difficulties, so this option is used less often. Installation features:

• use a special type of gypsum fiber board or gypsum board (with protrusions);
• lay polymer flexible pipes, forming coils;
• Tiles are installed on top of the heated floor.

• You can extend the service life of the coating if you proceed to laying tiles after the sealant, screed and other materials used in flooring have completely dried;
• if applicable roll waterproofing, its edge is fixed with construction tape;

Ceramic tile - best coverage for the floor in a room where it is often carried out wet cleaning or there is high dampness.

The material is difficult to install and even when laid on a stable monolithic concrete, places high demands on the qualifications of the master.

If the base is made of wood, the process becomes much more complicated. Next, we will tell you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor so that the coating is strong and durable.

Bases for tiles are usually divided into two categories:

1. simple;
2. complex.

The tree is classified as the second type due to the following features:

• Low load bearing capacity: tiles and - heavy materials and not every wooden structure can withstand such a load.
• Need for aeration: tiles are an airtight coating, and without air access the wood is destroyed.
• Short service life: wooden base will require repairs much earlier than cladding from ceramic tiles. This means that the user will one day be forced to knock down expensive finishing material, despite its good condition.

What distinguishes wood from other materials is its mobility, which implies the ability to:

• shrink;
• bend under loads;
• transmit vibrations;
• shrink and swell with changes in humidity.

The greatest mobility is observed in the first year or two after construction, when the tree shrinks.

Tiling can only be done after this period. The above does not apply to dried lumber with a moisture content of 8-12%.

Thus, laying tiles on a wooden floor is possible under the following conditions:

• the structure is strengthened and the load is minimized so that deformation is eliminated;
• the tree has already shrunk;
• the condition of all floor elements is ideal and repairs will not be required soon;
• for the same purpose, the wood is carefully treated with antiseptics;
• there is a layer between the base and the tile that allows the wood to change sizes, but at the same time maintaining a stable shape;
• there is air access to lumber.

Let's see how all these requirements are implemented in practice.

Preparatory work

Preparation of the base consists of several operations.

Dismantling floor boards and checking the condition of all elements located underneath them - from joists to vapor barriers

All damage is eliminated, and if it is significant, new materials are installed. Special attention require:

1. Layed on top of the ground vapor barrier film: if there are holes in it, steam enters the floor structure, which promotes the development of mold colonies and rotting fungi.
2. Wooden elements.

Laying plywood on a wooden floor (with glue) to level the base under the tiles

It is important to remove rotten areas, stripping them down to completely healthy tissue, and treat all lumber with one of the antiseptics:

• hot drying oil;
• sodium fluoride solution (50 – 100 g per 10 l of water);
• copper sulfate;
• any factory-made antiseptic for interior work.

Rotten areas are recognized by their soft structure - a knife or awl can easily penetrate them.

It is necessary to bring the drying oil to the desired temperature carefully: if it overheats, its vapors will ignite. If you lack experience, it is better to apply impregnation without heating.

Gain and Leveling

When the lag pitch is more than 50 cm, intermediate ones are laid between them to prevent sagging of the floor boards. New beams are also treated with impregnations.

The upper edges of the joists must lie in the same plane - then the base will be perfectly flat. During construction, they are placed this way, but due to uneven shrinkage, distortions occur, so alignment is necessary. Protruding beams are trimmed with a plane, sagging ones are placed on supports or thin boards are stuffed onto them, then the thickness is adjusted with a plane.

Installation of boards

Dismantled batten if she's in good condition, returns to its place. Before this, varnish or paint is removed from it using one of the following methods:

1. Heat construction hairdryer: fast and inexpensive option. When air is supplied at a temperature of 200C - 250C, the paint and varnish coating lags behind the wood, swelling with bubbles, so that it can easily be cleaned off with a spatula. This effect is due to a significant difference in the thermal conductivity coefficients of paint and wood. You cannot remove paint from metal and concrete substrates using this method.
2. Wash treatment: that's what they call it chemicals, intended for removal paint coatings. Available in the form of a ready-made solution (available in liquid and gel form) and a dry mixture. The paint can be easily removed after treatment, but for large volumes of surfaces, this method is expensive.
3. Processing with abrasive tools: The manual method is labor-intensive, while the mechanized method (using an angle grinder or a drill with a special attachment) is dusty and requires mastery of the tool.

Finished floor - tiles on wood

If damage is detected (cracks, woodworm passages, rotten areas), the boards are rejected.

The boards are laid on the joists with gaps of 3–4 mm, and between the boards and the walls - 1 cm.

The gaps eliminate the occurrence of stresses when wood expands due to changes in temperature or humidity.

Before installing the flooring, you must make sure that there is a ventilation gap of at least 5–7 mm between it and the insulation.

The boards are secured to the joists with corrosion-resistant nails or self-tapping screws:

• galvanized;
• oxidized (black);
• phosphated.

The board is attached to the outer joists with two hardware, and to the rest - with one.

Irregularities are puttied, then the boards are sanded with a grinder.

Finally, all gaps are filled with polyurethane sealant (spray foam). This elastic composition will transform the flooring from cracked to solid and at the same time allow the boards to expand freely. The gaps are foamed little by little: when curing, the sealant significantly increases in volume. The exposed material is cut off flush with the floor.

Waterproofing

In order to impart hydrophobic properties, the flooring is generously treated in several stages with latex impregnation or hot drying oil.

• polyethylene;
• glassine or other bituminous material;
• paraffin-impregnated material;
• painting mesh.

The overlap of the painting mesh panels is 5-10 cm, all others - 10-15 cm. The overlapping areas are taped.

How to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor

The next step is to form a rigid base for the tiles. One of three types of screeds is used: wet, dry and semi-dry.

“Wet” screed on a wooden floor under tiles

This is an option for rooms with high humidity. It's set up like this:

• a mesh of steel wire with a diameter of 3-5 mm with a mesh of 20x20 mm is laid on the separator substrate;
• install beacons, checking their horizontalness with a building level;
• pour cement-sand mortar in a layer 3 cm thick;
• align it with the beacons using a rule (for this, the distance between the beacons is made slightly less than the length of the rule);
• remove the beacons and fill the remaining openings with solution.

A thickness of 3 cm is optimal. If the value is lower, the screed will crack; if it is higher, it will be too heavy for the wooden flooring.

Wet screed

If a drain (shower) is installed in the floor, the screed is made with a slope towards it, for which special beacons are used. They are often supplied complete with drains.

IN washing departments instead of the usual cement-sand mortar waterproof polymer is used. The store-bought version is expensive, so they often use a homemade version prepared according to the following recipe:

• polyurethane glue or liquid glass (KS glue can be used): 2 parts;
• coarse sand (must be sifted and washed): 2 parts;
• water: 1 part.

A “wet” screed dries completely and gains strength after 28 days.

"Semi-dry" screed

This option also uses a cement-sand mixture, but with a limited amount of water. “Semi-dry” screed has the following advantages:

• the time for complete drying and hardening is only 4 days, the tiles can be laid after 3 days;
• in comparison with the “wet” analogue, it has less weight, therefore the load on the wooden base is reduced;
• can be laid quickly, it is possible to use mechanized installation means;
• there is no risk of moisture penetration into the underlying layers;
• can be used on any base, including crushed stone, sand or wood;
• does not shrink (little water evaporates).

Semi-dry screed

A “semi-dry” screed is inferior to a “wet” one only in penetrating ability: it fills bottlenecks - seams and cavities - worse. The situation is improved by adding plasticizers to the solution. The “semi-dry” screed is reinforced, just like the “wet” screed - with wire mesh and fiberglass.

For every 10 m2 of area, components are taken in the following quantities:

• Portland cement grade 400 and above: 25 kg;
• fine-grained river sand(clay impurities - no more than 3%): 60 l;
• fiberglass: 75 g.

After thorough mixing for 3 minutes. Add water little by little until the solution reaches the consistency of sticky clay sand (forms into a lump).

It is useful to add fiber fiber threads to the solution - additional reinforcement reduces the likelihood of cracking to zero.

"Dry" screed

In rooms with normal humidity (corridor, hallway), one of the following materials can be laid on top of the waterproofing instead of cement mortar:

• cement bonded particle boards;
• gypsum fiber sheets;
• moisture-resistant plywood;
• moisture-resistant drywall: the material, due to its fragility, is used only for lack of anything better.

The slabs are laid with a rotation of 30-45 0 relative to the boards so that the seams do not coincide. They are screwed along the perimeter with self-tapping screws in increments of 25-30 cm and another in the center. The seams are filled with a compound for sealing cracks between sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard, for example, Polyrem SShP-421 cement putty, and after it hardens, they are sanded.

After installing the screed, tiles are glued onto it in the usual way.

To cover a wooden floor with ceramic tiles, a large amount of work needs to be done. But if everything is done correctly, in accordance with the recommendations outlined above, the floor will not be inferior in quality and durability to concrete.

Wood cladding may raise some doubts, but there is a certain technology for laying it in this way. Expert advice will allow you to take everything into account important points during the installation process and carry out quality repairs in the room.

1. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom?

Most often, this issue worries those who make repairs in private houses and cottages. In such buildings, wood serves as the basis for cladding. In this case, cladding is acceptable, but it is worth assessing the condition of the surface and performing certain work on the eve of installation.

Further actions depend on the preliminary inspection of the base:

• If the surface is in good condition, then minor processing is done and masonry can begin;
• If there are serious flaws, installation is unacceptable. First, you should repair the base by replacing the necessary parts.

Calculate the required volume of material for the flooring of the room, taking into account the specific layout option (herringbone, offset, diagonal, rows, etc.).
When making repairs yourself, it is advisable to choose the simplest installation method, for example, cladding in rows. When laying in a diagonal direction, the consumption of tiles will increase significantly, since trimming will be necessary.

2. Preparing the base for cladding

Thinking about how to lay tiles on wood covering, you should first treat the surface of the base. Before covering, carefully check the surface. The covering can be made of boards or laminate.
The floor structure consists of rough-level boards, which are fixed on wooden joists.

Old paint can be removed using different methods:
. Mechanical method.
The meaning of this method is to use a grinding machine, or electric drill with a sandpaper attachment. For initial processing, grit size No. 40 is suitable; final sanding is recommended to be No. 100 or No. 80. The main advantage of mechanical action is the ability to clean fairly large areas.

. Thermal method.
For processing, you will need a high-power hair dryer that can heat the air to + 300.. + 600 degrees. The device should be kept at a distance of 250-500 mm from the floor; after heating, the paint is removed in small parts, using a scraper or metal spatula when working.

Experts advise purchasing an industrial hair dryer with a special scraper, so you can combine the process of heating and cleaning the wood from paint.

. Method of chemical exposure.
Various solvents are suitable for this method. Chemical composition saturate the paint, applying it with a spatula or brush, depending on the consistency of the substance. The saturation time is 10-30 minutes, after which the paint layer softens and can be easily removed.

When organizing the subfloor, logs are installed on top of the ceilings. Then parchment (waterproofing) is laid, and the structure is completed with sheets of chipboard, gypsum board or plywood. Make sure the surface is even; logs must be installed level.

Before laying the material, sheets of chipboard, plywood or gypsum board must be treated with drying oil warm temperature, or other composition with protective properties. The device can be started immediately after the impregnation has dried.

Preparation of finishing material

Immersion in water will help displace the air from the tiles; 10-20 minutes is enough. If on outside stains appear on the tiles; in this case, a slight moistening of the surface from the inside is sufficient.

3. Do you need a screed?

Before laying, you should check the coating and evaluate how even it is using a level. If there are significant deviations, it is necessary to make a screed before facing.

What alignment methods are there?

• Wet screed . Suitable for cases where it is necessary to increase the strength characteristics of the floor. At the same time, a gap is created around the perimeter of the room, taking into account possible deformation. This condition allows the base to move without destroying the installed coating;

• Dry screed method . This method the most popular because it allows you to create not only a flat, but also a reliable floor with high load-bearing capacity;
• Leveling using gypsum board sheets is considered the easiest option . First of all, carefully examine the condition of the wood floor. Those bars that have rotted should be replaced with new elements. Next, the drywall is installed, the sheets are fixed with polyurethane glue, and the joints are treated with sealant. You should also soak the sheets with a primer mixture.

4. Laying the tiles

Basic steps when laying tiles on a wooden floor:

• Before tiling the floor, you need to determine the location of the parts. The center is measured big wall and a line is fixed on the floor, usually it is perpendicular. Similar actions are also carried out for a short wall.
  
• The resulting lines at the intersection point indicate the center of the room, if the room represents rectangular shape. Organize the most interesting option layouts, avoiding cutting tiles along the walls as much as possible.
  

  It is recommended to tile the floor around the bathroom symmetrically.

• The glue composition is used to treat 1 square meter of base in one of the corners, measured by the center of the room. In order to conveniently distribute the glue, it is better to use a spatula or spatula.
• Provided the surface is flat (differences in height are no more than 3 mm), glue consumption is reduced to a minimum. In this case, it is enough for the layer to be less than 5 mm, because adhesive composition serves only for adhesion of the floor and tiles. To level the surface, there is a special glue on sale that can eliminate protrusions (up to 30 mm). Also, glue consumption depends on the thickness of the tile.
  

  There is no need to mix the entire volume of glue at once, because installation takes quite a long time. The composition should be gradually diluted as needed.

• You need to create pressure on the tile, then press it to the base. After this, you should continue laying, following the marked markings. Cover the entire floor area treated with adhesive.
  

• The layout is directed from the central point to the walls, while certain gaps between the tiles must be maintained. After half of the floor surface in the bathroom is filled with tiles, the remaining part is also tiled. Next, you need to wait for the adhesive to dry completely.
  

  Individual elements must be on the same level. If necessary, you can add a layer of glue.

• We supplement the space between the wall and the laid material with trimmings. In order to carefully cut off some parts finishing material It is better to use a construction cutter.

Sometimes when laying flooring you need to go around something in the bathroom. In this case, use a precise outline, cutting it out with an electric saw.

• After the glue becomes hard, the tiles are impregnated with a primer.
  

  There are collections of floor tiles in which the elements are coated with a primer. This information specified on the packaging.

• A scraper with a rubber tip is capable of filling all the gaps between the elements with a solution. Excess solution can be removed with a dampened sponge the day before drying;
• If the bathtub is located close to a tiled wall, the gap between the wall and the bathtub must be sealed to ensure tightness. A gap of less than 5 mm can be filled with tiled grout or moisture-resistant grout.

Very few people install tiles on wood floors. Of course, such builders are familiar with all the secrets of this process. For most homeowners, this combination is not very desirable, since there are many opinions regarding the incompatibility of wood and ceramic tiles. The main explanation is that the wood deteriorates faster and begins to move, which causes damage to the tiles laid on top. However, such consequences arise when laying tiles on a wooden floor was not done entirely correctly.

One of the main reasons for laying ceramic tiles on such a floor is the need to provide excellent sanitary and hygienic conditions in rooms with high humidity. Moisture is known to destroy wood floors. protects the base from moisture, because some types can perfectly withstand it.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor is always done in the standard way.

All differences various cases consist only in preparing the foundation.

In this case, preparing the base is easiest. Preparation begins with a thorough inspection of the plank floor. This process involves removing the floorboards and assessing their condition.

Inspection of plank floors

The condition of the lags is also assessed. If there are damaged boards, they look for replacements. Before assembling all the elements into a single structure, they are treated with antiseptic substances.

If necessary, insulate the ceiling. Expanded clay is often used for this. It is covered in an even layer. The top is moistened with cement mortar. You can use polystyrene foam or mineral wool. In the second case, care should be taken. It is laid under insulation.

Insulate the ceiling

Next, the wooden flooring is assembled. To do this, level the logs using a level. Afterwards the boards are laid. They are also checked for differences. If a board lies too low, place cardboard, roofing felt or fiberboard under it. The resulting surface is puttied.

Afterwards, moisture-resistant drywall should be placed on top of the floorboards. It is fixed using two-component polyurethane glue. The structure can be strengthened by laying another layer of drywall. It is created so that the seams of the underlying row are covered with sheets of the new layer.

Important: the material is placed so that there is a gap between it and the wall. Each seam must be filled with sealant.

Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, you need to prime the base.

Prime the base

For this, a universal primer is used. Next, you need to apply glue compatible with GKVL and lay ceramic tiles. At the end, they take the sealant and fill the expansion joint left along the walls

If the floor has rotted and only logs remain

In this case, all floorboards are dismantled and the joists are assessed. Some of them must also be rotten. Bad lags are replaced with new ones.

All beams are treated with an antiseptic and aligned using a level.

A new wooden flooring treated with an antiseptic is nailed on top.

Nailing new wood flooring

The further procedure is as described above.

There is another option. Install additional logs. Further . The latter will be the basis for laying the tiles. This option will be discussed below.

This desire can be fulfilled when the floor is above ground or on concrete floor. In this case, you need to do the following:

• Remove skirting boards, floorboards and dismantle joists;

Dismantle the old floor

• Clean the concrete base, remove fallen cement, develop every crack, or level the soil and fill in expanded clay;

Clean the concrete base

• The concrete floor is primed or insulated with heat-insulating materials (expanded clay, expanded polystyrene);

Insulated with thermal insulation materials

• Lay the damper tape;

Lay damper tape

• Fill in the leveling screed (it may be suitable for this cement mixture for self-leveling floors), in the case of using cement mortar, beacons are placed before pouring the screed; after that it is advisable to fill such a screed;

Fill the leveling screed

• Wait for the screed to dry completely and begin laying the tiles.

Start laying tiles

Laying tiles on a wooden floor covered with chipboard or plywood is a very good option. That is why it has become the most common. It is implemented in different ways:

• Sheet fastening wooden material(plywood, chipboard) directly onto the leveled floorboards.
• Formation new system logs and installation of plywood on them. These joists must be laid on the finished plank floor.
• Usage ready-made sets regulating floors, which have screw plastic supports.

Either of these methods involves using an old wooden floor as a base.

Laying in different ways

Therefore, it would not be superfluous to check its suitability, treat all parts with protective solutions and replace bad elements. The second and third steps cannot be done without disassembling the structure. Although this is additional work, in the end there is good opportunity assemble the structure without differences.

When there is an equal, solid foundation, proceed to one of the three above-mentioned methods. The final stage of each of them is laying chipboard, plywood or similar sheet material. The plywood squares must be laid in such a way that cross-shaped joints do not form. It is desirable that the junction of two sheets of one row meet in the middle of the sheet of the adjacent row.

Covering with chipboard or plywood

The covering is fixed using screws. Be sure to organize grinding of the formed seams. Afterwards, clean the surface with a vacuum cleaner and begin filling the seams with sealant. This can also be done using polyurethane two-component adhesive.

It is worth saying that this is the solution that needs to be used to glue the tiles to the plywood.

Using regular tile adhesive will not give a good result.

Laying tiles

Before laying tiles, chipboard or any equivalent is impregnated with a primer.

Video

In this video you will learn how to properly prepare a wooden floor for laying tiles.
Thanks to this material get a lot of useful information.

Photo source: stroyday.ru; bath-rmnt.com

The success of installation and long-term service life of the floor covering is determined by 50% competent preparation grounds. According to clear construction regulations, only a perfectly leveled surface capable of “holding” the weight of the ceramics and its own stable position can become a worthy basis for tiles. Due to the fact that the “windy yoke” of wood is not inclined to remain constant, laying tiles on a wooden floor for a long time was considered a pointless procedure. However there is construction plans, the use of which can reconcile the “playful” nature of the building material with the tough character of the tiled or clinker finish.

How to reconcile ceramics with a wooden base?

Due to the organic origin of wood, it cannot be classified as an “unshakable” building material. It shrinks from lack of moisture, swells from excess. A new wooden floor still settles for one and a half to two years after construction, and even after the period set for post-construction shrinkage has expired, movement still occurs. Movement imperceptible to the human eye negatively affects the solidity of the tiled surface. Structural connections are broken, tiles peel off and crack. As a result, not only all the work goes down the drain, but also a lot of money invested in finishing.

This means that the task of a home-grown finisher is to create a kind of damper layer that absorbs the characteristic movement of wooden elements. The solid outer part of this layer must be turned towards ceramic coating, and expose the elastic rear to the shocks and blows of the wood. In addition, the wood hidden underneath needs to breathe, otherwise it will quickly rot, overcome by fungi and mold.

Preparatory stage - preparation of the base

By wooden floor we obviously mean not only plank floorboards visible from the outside. This is a multilayer structure consisting of powerful beams, lags laid “in a cross” along them and a substrate located under the boards. Before tiles are laid on a wooden floor, all elements of this complex system must be thoroughly inspected and tested.

Inspection of the wooden base

Since it is recommended to finish a new wood floor exclusively with tongue and groove boards, it is not difficult to guess that the floor will have to be dismantled for inspection. After all, the floor with wooden floorboards has already served its purpose. The absence of squeaks and wobbly boards is not an excuse for laziness. It is possible that the problem that is already brewing may simply not be felt.

Attention. If the joists were laid at intervals of more than 50 cm, the floor will need to be completely re-laid, otherwise it will not support the weight of the ceramic-finished screed.

Let's assume that the design completely satisfies us. Then we carry out inspection, repair and preparation in the following sequence:

• remove the existing floor covering;
• we check beams and joists, replace damaged or beginning to rot elements;
• we check horizontality and carry out alignment;

Note. If it is impossible to raise the log in the usual way - by driving a wedge or placing scraps of lumber under it, the board must be sewn on top, then trim off the excess, focusing on the level readings.

• generously treat all components of the wooden floor antiseptic impregnations, best with mastics specified in technical specifications maximum update frequency;
• After the antifungal impregnation has dried, fill all the spaces between the joists with fine expanded clay. We fill in the insulation so that between the top line of the log and the surface of this heat insulator there remains 5 cm for ventilation;
• We are preparing to re-lay the floorboards; they will serve as a rough base, since gypsum fiber board or waterproof plywood, despite the convincing assurances of the manufacturers, will not withstand intense exposure to moisture and repeated temperature fluctuations. Although dry leveling with plasterboard, chipboards or plywood is quite suitable for arranging a bathroom, a small bath kitchenette and a rest room;

Attention. If you want to install tiles on a wooden subfloor covered with used boards, you will need to remove the paint or varnish from the floorboards. Easier and cheaper to remove coating sandpaper or a sharp scraper. It can be quickly removed using a special chemical “removal” or a hair dryer, which softens the protective and decorative coating.

• we lay back the boards that have become rough, leaving 3-5 mm gaps between the floorboards to ensure the possible expansion of the rough floor. We fasten the boards with galvanized self-tapping screws (one in each row joist, two in the outer ones);
• in the presence of minor defects, holes from former fasteners or knots need to be filled with putty;
• level the laid subfloor grinder or simply sand it if leveling is not required;
• There should be a centimeter technological gap around the perimeter of the floor. Fill it with silicone polyurethane foam or glue it with tape from polymer membrane(we bend a 30mm strip of membrane in half, attach one part to the lower edge of the wall, the other to the floor);
• the gaps between the boards, between sheets of plywood, if it was used to level the floor in “dry” rooms, are also filled with foam or glued with membrane tapes;
• To form a monolithic insulating layer, we treat the subfloor with heated drying oil or latex impregnation without the notorious savings.

Note. Instead of mastic, you can use parchment paper, bitumen or waxed roll analogue.

If it was decided to carry out waterproofing with drying oil or impregnation, and not with roll insulation, without waiting for them to dry completely, the prepared surface must be completely covered with a painting mesh. This will create a continuous insulating layer for laying tiles on a wooden floor, protecting against moisture and compensating for the effects of wood movement.

Lightweight screed device

Now you need to form a solid, rigid base for ceramic cladding floor. This will be a standard screed, but lighter and more sophisticated, since the wood does not need extra pressure at all.

The base for laying porcelain stoneware, clinker or tiles on a wooden floor can be arranged in three ways, these are:

• Filling standard cement screed, the thickness of which does not exceed 3 cm. First, we lay it on top of the waterproofing and fasten it with screws to the rough base metal mesh, then fill in the traditional cement mortar, which can be replaced with a polymer screed.

• Instead of the compositions intended for forming screeds, we use KS glue with a base of liquid glass. A two-component polyurethane adhesive will do instead. After polymerization, it will also create an elastic layer that prevents cracking of the tiles due to the deformation vagaries of wood.

Note. Solution with liquid glass To fill the screed, you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to mix one part of water, two parts of washed and sifted coarse sand and two parts of liquid glass.

• In the “dry” rooms of the bathhouse, you can do quick dry leveling DSP slabs or moisture-resistant plasterboard. We lay them “in a run” at an angle of 30º to the direction of laying the rough boards so that the butt seams do not coincide. The seams can be additionally glued with a compound designed for working with gypsum plasterboard.

Description of the tile laying process technology

Before gluing, we’ll do a preliminary “try-on” and figure out how to lay the tiles on the floor more beautifully. Trimming cannot be avoided, but it is better to place the trimmed parts in shaded areas and on the periphery of the room. Therefore, we will begin the preliminary layout from the central part and from the maximum illuminated area. We will immediately determine how many tiles will need to be cut and prepare them in advance. If you don’t need to cut a lot of tiles, just stock up on a tile cutter. For numerous cuttings of tiles, you will need a grinder.

Further steps for laying ceramic tiles on a properly prepared wooden floor are no different from standard methods, So:

• To begin with, it is recommended to find the center by intersecting the diagonals. We divide the room into four equal segments, drawing directions with coated painter's cord along the walls or diagonally, depending on the chosen layout.
• We prepare the glue in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. We do not spread it more than is required to finish 1 m² of floor.

• Apply the solution with a spatula-comb to the floor surface. The size of the teeth of a comb tool depends on the dimensions of the ceramic elements. For large tiles 0.8 mm, for small ones less.
• We lay the tiles on the surface treated with glue, inserting plastic crosses into the butt seams, or in extreme cases, matches.
• We constantly control the longitudinal and transverse directions, as well as horizontality, by applying a block to several tiles.

Note. It is possible to level the masonry and correct defects only until the adhesive solution hardens. Longitudinal and transverse directions can be adjusted by slightly moving them. The “sunken” tiles need to be separated, the missing mortar added and laid again.

All adhesive “bloopers” from the surface of the tile must be removed with a damp rag, without waiting for the solution to set. After installation is completed and the glue has hardened, the seams are moistened and rubbed.