In what soil is it better to plant violets? From flower pots to shelving, what do you need when growing violets? Fertilizers for violets: which ones to choose and how to apply them

Substrate is the basis on which plants are grown. For example, vermiculite or perlite are substrates for rooting cuttings. The composition of the substrate may include various components: high-moor peat, low-lying peat, sand, vermiculite, perlite, sphagnum moss, coconut substrate, humus, chernozem, charcoal and etc.

Earth, earth mixture or soil - all pure components or mixtures thereof, which include natural organic lands. Their main property is a rich supply of nutrients, which ensures the growth of plants planted in them without additional feeding.

Landless mixture - made on the basis of peat or coconut soil with the addition of inert cultivators (perlite, vermiculite). Distinctive feature- practically does not contain the nutrients necessary for growth, but allows you to specifically control nutrition with the help of fertilizing. The big advantage of the soilless mixture is the absence of phytopathogens.

Substrate requirements: - lightness; - moisture capacity; - breathability; - sufficient phosphorus and potassium content, as well as essential microelements; - nitrogen content in sufficient quantity, but not in excess; - acidity close to normal pH 5.5-6.5; - the presence of living and favorable microflora that helps fight painful bacteria; - absence of pests and their larvae;

One of important indicators soil favorability - air capacity. Air capacity is the ability of soil to hold a certain amount of air. It depends on the porosity and moisture of the soil. The higher the porosity and the lower the humidity, the greater the air capacity. The more structured the soil, the more large pores free of water it contains, and, therefore, the higher its moisture capacity. Sprayed, structureless soils have little air.

It is necessary to buy soil containing reddish-brown, coarse-fibered high-moor peat. It is not recommended to take “Polish” violet substrate, Saintpaulia “Biotech”, Saintpaulia “Garden of Miracles”, For violets “Vegetable Garden” - the soil is made on the basis of lowland peat, it is too black, it cakes. ASB GREENWORLD, Germany - this soil can be called the most optimal for violets

But based on some of them you can prepare suitable substrate. To grow violets, soil mixtures are usually used containing the violets necessary for growth and flowering. minerals. In any case, at a suitable time purchased soil you will need to add raising agents such as vermiculite, charcoal, polystyrene foam, perlite and sphagnum moss. They absorb moisture well and then gradually release it. Better yet, prepare your own mixture.

In general, two approaches to compiling soil mixtures. The first is the use of an extremely simple peat substrate with rippers. In this case, constant feeding is necessary. The second is the preparation of a complex, balanced mixture containing the nutrients necessary for growth over a period of time. The care of the plant will depend on which option you choose.

The soil for violets should be airy and retain moisture well. Perlite is an essential component for growing violets, since it provides the roots with air access, while vermiculite makes the soil mixture loose and absorbs moisture. The peculiarity of sphagnum moss is that it absorbs moisture and gradually releases it to the roots of the plant. It is useful to add a small amount of finely crushed charcoal. The amount of rippers in the composition of the soil for violets should be 30-50% of the total volume.

Violet prefers loose, neutral soils with a pH of 5.5-6.5. The optimal substrate for its cultivation is high-moor peat, but not in its pure form, but with adjusted acidity. Since in its pure form peat is an acidic environment, which is not suitable for the development of violets. If you replant violets twice a year, changing the soil, the plant will receive enough nutrients from the new soil and additional feeding not required.

It is not the finished substrate that should be subjected to heat treatment, but those of its components that may contain eggs and larvae of pests - leaf, turf, manure humus, all purchased substrates, as well as soil whose origin is unknown to you. There is no need to process those components that can be destroyed during processing (pure peat and peat soils, washed sand, perlite, vermiculite, moss, fertilizers)..

The most common methods of cultivating land are dressing chemicals, calcination in the oven at high temperature, pouring boiling water and steaming over boiling water in the microwave. Place a small amount of soil in a regular plastic bag. And in the microwave. On one side 3 minutes, on the other 3 minutes. That's all. No bugs, no spiders, no worms or mushrooms.

All living things, as is known, consist of at least 70% water, which is also heated inside insects. At this temperature, no one can survive inside the body. The temperature is lethal for animals, but not for the decomposition of nitrogen and microelements. The soil is perfectly sterilized within 7 minutes at a power of 800 W. But it is better to do two sessions of 2-3 minutes each. And the soil does not deteriorate, and does not smell, and what kind of thing, but sterilization.

Steam in an old saucepan and a colander that fits into it without gaps, a lid that closes it tightly. Place in a colander double layer gauze and fill it with slightly moistened soil, without compacting it. Cover the colander with a lid and place it on the pan so that the water in it does not reach the bottom of the colander by 3-4 cm. At least an hour should pass from the moment the water boils until the end of steaming. After the earth has completely cooled, you can add all the “clean” components to it - peat, various cultivators and fertilizers. In order to restore the microflora, you can use ready-made biological preparations containing microflora beneficial to the soil, for example, Trichodermin, Glyokladin, Alirin-B, etc.

Sterile soil needs to be approached differently. It is empty in terms of vital population. And in nature, if there is emptiness, it is very a short time. So, you steamed, calcined or spilled the soil with potassium permanganate or fungicides, thus destroying everyone - both good and bad. After a few days, the first spores of fungi attacked from the air and bacterial cysts will begin to germinate in the soil. And here one person will take over, filling the entire soil space in a very short time. The ability to quickly reproduce in sterile conditions, the absence of competitors and a good food supply will make its population a leader.

Post-steaming toxicosis is eliminated by spilling the soil with the drug Trichodermin and others. These preparations contain billions of spores of soil “defenders” in one gram. We can recommend Fitolavin-300, which contains a phytobacteriomycin-producing strain. The microorganisms with which these preparations are saturated suppress the initial explosion in the number of leading populations after steaming, preventing the further activation of pathogenic flora.

A good prevention of rot is to spill the substrate with solutions of fungicidal and bactericidal preparations. The most commonly used - 3% solution hydrogen peroxide, solution furatsilina light yellow color and pink-raspberry solution potassium permanganate. Fungus development or growing point rotting is less likely if you spill the substrate when preparing phytosporin or trichodermin. When preparing a soil mixture, you can use Fitosporin-M in powder form; this version is also commercially available. Apply 10 grams per approximately 6-7 liters of soil with thorough mixing.

A white coating on the surface of the soil in a pot can be caused by the development of fungal microflora from excessive watering and to get rid of it, you need to water the plant only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. Collect the top soil and sprinkle activated crushed carbon in the pot, this protects against rotting and mold growth. Mold, even with normal watering, in especially sad cases, grows and permeates the entire soil in the pot. Then you need to replant, completely change all the soil, use fungicides.

Sciarids (fungus gnat) often annoy violet growers. These are small flies that fly around the outlet. Their larvae are dangerous - white worms 3-8 mm long with a dark head, damaging young roots and disturbing the soil structure. The drug Grom-2 helps here. Simply powder the soil when mixing. If you do this regularly, there will be no mosquitoes.

An example of the composition of soil for violets:

Greenword soil and Peat – 50%.

Perlite and Vermiculite – 20%.

Moss-Sphagnum or Coconut fiber – 20%.

Nutrient soil - 10% with the addition of crushed charcoal.

If necessary, add a deoxidizing agent ( dolomite flour or finely ground egg shells, or, in extreme cases, fluff lime). Number of components approx. For Saintpaulias different ages, different varieties needed different proportions. So the soil for rooting leaves and children should contain more raising agents.

Since the materials are bulk, you can measure them in any container - you can take a liter jar, and if you need a little substrate, you can take a glass or mug. In other words, for 1 cup of nutrient soil, add 3 cups of Greenword soil, 2 cups of peat, 1 cup of perlite, 1 cup of vermiculite, 1 cup of sphagnum moss, 1 cup of coconut fiber, plus crushed charcoal. Remove all large fractions from purchased substrates with your hands: lumps, unrotted plant residues, sticks.

The above recipe is just one of many possible ones; it is not at all necessary to copy it with all care. So feel free to use this recipe as starting point for your own composite soil. All these components can be mixed and their shares and proportions in the mixture can be changed. Ready mix should turn out light, airy and fluffy, well permeable to water and air and so that didn’t track for as long as possible.

An option for storing finished soil: take a shoebox (you can take any lockable box), “dress” it in bags from the inside, and pour soil into it. Close the box with a lid. Store so that the soil does not dry out and at the same time there is access to air.

For wick irrigation requires a soilless mixture based on peat, with the addition large quantity rippers. This is necessary so that the roots do not get wet.

Continuation :

One of the most important factors Success in growing Saintpaulia is a properly composed earthen mixture. What should it be so that adult plants bloom luxuriantly and do not get sick, cuttings take root safely, and young rosettes grow quickly? As you know, each collector has his own, proven by many years of experience, composition of the earthen mixture.

As laboratory studies show, soils sold in stores have a number of disadvantages: firstly, too high acidity; secondly, excess or deficiency of macro- and microelements; thirdly, the soil is too heavy and compacts quickly. What to do if it is not possible to collect various components in the forest yourself? Many years of experience of violet growers proves that the use of “ready-made soils” is possible. The exhibitions at the Violet House feature plants, most of which are grown on purchased soils.

In order for plants to develop and bloom well, the soil must be loose, moisture-absorbing, breathable, contain the required amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and have a slightly acidic environment - pH 5.5-6.5.

There are various components that are recommended to be added to purchased soil so that it meets the above requirements.

	Perlite is a rock of volcanic origin. It is added to the soil up to 30% of the volume, making the mixture lighter, more breathable, looser, which prevents caking, clumping, and compaction. Thanks to these properties, the plant’s roots develop well and air exchange is not disturbed.
	Vermiculite - natural material from the group of hydromicas. It is added to the soil in the same way as perlite, up to 30% of the volume. The main difference between perlite and vermiculite is that vermiculite retains water longer, while perlite releases it faster, providing air exchange and oxygen delivery to the roots.
	Sphagnum moss is hydroscopic and makes the substrate breathable. And thanks to the anti-putrefactive substance, sphagnol has antibacterial, disinfectant and antifungal properties. It is also added to the soil (approximately 20-30%).
	Charcoal - good antiseptic, it prevents rotting and acidification of the soil, and also absorbs salts and improves the structure of the soil.

We offer an approximate soil recipe based on purchased:

• 6 parts of purchased soil;
• 1 part perlite;
• 1 part vermiculite;
• 1 part sphagnum moss;
• 1 part coal.

It is important not to forget about drainage. Fine expanded clay or perlite can be used as drainage.

When preparing the soil, each gardener uses his own recipe. You can add more or less of each baking powder, use additional components(sand, pine bark, pine needles, etc.). The main thing is that the result is a loose, not very heavy, homogeneous substrate that can provide access to air and water to the roots.

This soil can also be used for violet relatives from the Gesneriaceae family - Gloxinia, Sinningia, Streptocarpus, Chirit, etc.

We wish you success in growing plants!

Or Saintpaulia. They take up little space, and the beauty of their leaves and flowers cannot be compared with any other plants. These bright and delicate bouquets of flowers attract with the fragility of the petals, their virgin purity, and unusual colors. Growing them is difficult; not everyone can cope with this difficult task. But there are no obstacles for violet fans: they study all the nuances of the growing conditions and caring for the indoor beauty.

The first description of the violet was made by the German botanist Wendland, who named the flower Saintpaulia. Another name for the plant is Uzambara violet, after the area in Africa where it was discovered. There are thousands of varieties of violets in the world, and their selection continues actively. All types indoor flower similar with an underdeveloped root system and rosettes of leaves. The varieties differ in the shape of the leaf plate and its diameter. And the variety of inflorescences is such that it is simply impossible to describe all types.

There are three types of indoor flowers: simple, double and semi-double. U simple types Flower petals are arranged in one row; in semi-double and double plants, the petals are arranged in two or three rows.

Based on the color of the petals, violets are distinguished into plain violets and fancy colors with spots and dots. Some varieties have a contrasting border around the edge of the petals. Chimeras have a line drawn down the center that is different in color from the main tone.

Among the best varieties Violets are noted by the following Saintpaulias:

• The five-petalled variety Lions Pirates Treasure has bright pink flowers with a crimson border.
• In a wavy rosette sheet plates variety Melodies Kimi there is a bouquet of delicate flowers with two blue petals on top and white petals on the bottom.
• Look like stars coral color Austin's Smile violets.
• Saintpaulia Admiral is widespread among gardeners. Cornflower blue semi-double bell flowers with wavy edges are reminiscent of the sea.
• Of the two-color species, LE-Tiger can be noted - pink-coral petals, quite large, with a white spot in the middle decorate the plant.
• Of the chimeras, the violet Solitaire is original. It has blurry stripes coming out of the yellow center purple. Against the background of snow-white petals, everything looks very harmonious.
• The Ming Dynasty corrugated cups are snow-white, edged with lilac stripes. In a rosette of variegated leaves they look decorative.
• The variety Natalis Estravagante is attractive not only for the lace of white-pink flowers with a greenish border, but also for the variegation of the leaves.
• Complex, unusual colors of the Chimpansy violet, which combines the bright pink tones of semi-double petal stars with strokes and swirls of blue color on them.

The variety of types and varieties of flowers allows you to choose those whose color matches the taste and mood of the owner of the violet.

Choosing a pot for planting homemade saintpaulia it is necessary thoroughly. This plays a big role in the development and flowering of the plant. The container is selected taking into account the diameter of the rosette of leaves. A flowerpot 6-8 centimeters in diameter is suitable for children, and 9-10 centimeters for an adult plant.

In this case, the height of the container can reach no more than ten centimeters. If the pot becomes small, the violet will not bloom. And in a pot with a large diameter, the soil will begin to turn sour, since the roots of the plant will not use it for nutrition. The soil will cake and rot, which will also affect the plant.

The diameter of the pot is measured by the size of the leaf rosette, reducing it in half.

The best material for a flowerpot would be plastic or ceramics. But be sure to place a tray under the container, and the bottom of the pot has holes. Then excess moisture will not accumulate inside, and the plant will avoid fungal diseases. When carefully selecting a container for a violet, you must remember that its roots are small and fill the entire volume of the soil mixture.

Soil for violets: what should it be?

Creating conditions for violet development: lighting, humidity, temperature

Since the birthplace of the flower is the moist soils of the African continent, it is necessary to create conditions for the plant similar to:

• Sunlight is useful for violets, but diffused and dim. Otherwise ultra-violet rays will leave burns on the leaves. The eastern and western window sills of the house are suitable for Saintpaulia. During the growing season, the plant needs ten to twelve hours of daylight. If there are no such conditions, then they organize lighting fluorescent lamps. They are placed at a distance of half a meter from flowering bushes. I want violets to delight with blooming constellations all year round, then the lamps will work in winter.
• The air humidity in the room should be between fifty and sixty percent. In winter it decreases, so you can place containers of water on the windowsills. You can increase the humidity by placing moss or pebbles moistened with water in a tray. It is not recommended to arrange a shower for violets, but wipe the leaves as they become dusty.
• The air temperature in the room where Saintpaulias grow must be controlled. It should be between 18-25 degrees Celsius. The plant does not tolerate heat well and begins to wither. A low temperatures lead to a weakening of the immune system of the green organism.

Flowers look beautiful and healthy if their growing conditions are met.

The active growth of the violet leads to the fact that its capacity becomes small. At this point, the flower is transplanted into another container. Take a pot two to three centimeters larger in diameter than the old one. Transplantation is also organized if home plant slows down in development. The procedure is carried out after the plant’s growing season has ended - at the beginning of winter. You can replant the violet in February, before the growth processes intensify.

The procedure begins by selecting a container, filling it with drainage and soil mixture.

Be sure to disinfect the soil by spilling it with a solution of potassium permanganate. After the procedure, leave the pot with soil for a week to saturate the soil with oxygen and beneficial microorganisms.

Having pulled the plant out of the old pot, transfer it, along with clods of earth on the roots, into a prepared container. Then the soil is compacted a little and watered. To rejuvenate the violet, its leaves are cut off. Dying lower leaves must be removed, and the top is cut off for propagation. The violet reacts to any deviation in the development conditions of the disease with lethargy and weakness. Only replanting can save the plant.

Saintpaulias are susceptible to various fungal diseases:

1. Rot fungi attack the root part of the plant. As a result, the flower begins to wither, and if it is not replanted, it will die.
2. A whitish coating spreads to the leaves and stems - these are the first signs of powdery mildew. The disease actively occurs if the plant does not receive enough light and there is high air humidity in the room. Treatment with Topaz three times with a break of ten days will save you from fungus.
3. Phytosporosis spores destroy the roots and leaves of the plant. You can treat a violet by transplanting its children into another container.
4. Fusarium begins with root rot. And the flowering bushes begin to weaken and turn yellow. A sick plant cannot be saved; it is destroyed. And healthy flowers are treated by spraying with Fitosporin.

More information can be found in the video:

The main components of soil for violets:
High-moor peat or soil mixtures based on it , such as "KLASMANN", "GREENWORLD", "TERA VITA", "Seliger-Agro" and others.

Perlite- almost neutral material. Rock of volcanic origin. It is added to the soil up to 30% of the volume, making the mixture lighter, more breathable, looser, which prevents caking, clumping, and compaction. Thanks to these properties, the plant’s roots develop well and air exchange is not disturbed.

Vermiculite- natural material, belongs to the types of mica. It increases the acidity of the soil. It is added to the soil in the same way as perlite, up to 30% of the volume. Vermiculite provides air exchange and oxygen delivery to the roots.

Perlite is convenient to use together with vermiculite. IN joint use they compensate for each other's shortcomings. It is advisable to purchase a large fraction and be sure to rinse before use.

Sphagnum moss- has antibacterial, disinfectant and antifungal properties, thanks to the anti-putrefactive substance. It also makes the soil hygroscopic and breathable.

Charcoal- a good antiseptic, it prevents rotting and acidification of the soil, and also absorbs salts and improves the structure of the soil. The use of charcoal reduces the risk of bacterial diseases of the root system of plants.

When composing the soil, you can use more or less of some components, omit some or replace them with similar ones (coconut, pine needles, bark, sand), the main thing is that the substrate is breathable, moisture-absorbing and loose.

Here are a few examples of the composition of soil mixtures for violets:

6 parts of purchased soil;
- 1 part perlite;
- 1 part vermiculite;
- 1 part sphagnum moss;
- 1 part coal

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4 parts of peat-based nutrient soil (soil for violets and begonias)
- 1/2 part perlite
-1/2 part vermiculite
- 1/2 - 1 part crushed moss
-1/2 part coconut substrate
- 2-6 tablespoons fine charcoal - depends on the volume of soil made.

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6 parts of nutritious soil (“Seliger-Agro” universal for flowers, “Vermion”, “Zashita”, “AB5, Greenworldn”)
- 1 part perlite,
- 1 part vermiculite,
- 1/2 part of coconut substrate,
- 1 part chopped sphagnum moss,
- approximately a tablespoon of fine charcoal.

These are the recipes of our famous collectors and breeders, published by Irina Shchedrina on the Violet House forum:

Recipe by Olga Aksenkina:

Vermiculite: perlite = 1:6

Charcoal 1 pack per 10 liters

Fertilizers "Plantofol" - concentrations are 4 times less than recommended. After transplantation, the plants receive clean water, during the second watering and then with a fertilizer solution.

Recipe from Olga Artemova:

Adult violets on the wick:

White high peat "Klasmann"

Fertilizer "Etisso" for flowers 1ml/1l. with every watering,

Children (wick not used):

White high peat "Klasmann"

Fertilizer "Etisso" according to the instructions for the fertilizer

Recipe from Irina Danilina

Adult violets and children (I do not use a wick):

"Greenworld" - 1h

Vermion elite - 1h

Perlite-Vermiculite - 0.5 packs

Charcoal - 0.5 packs per 10 l

Adult violets on the wick:

"Greenworld" - 1h

Perlite - 1 hour

Charcoal

Fertilizer Schultz (Schultz) - according to instructions, every watering

Recipe from Nina Starostenko

Adult Saintpaulias and children are grown on mats:

Terra Vita (Floral or universal) - 10l

Coniferous substrate - 1 pack

Charcoal - 1 pack

Perlite + vermiculite in a ratio of 4:1 - 10-20% of the mixture volume

Fertilizer "Etisso" - not regularly

Replant as needed.

Recipe from Tamara Kopeikina

Adult violets on the wick:

Greenworld - 10 parts

Perlite - 7 parts

Fertilizer: "Etisso" for flowers 1 ml per 1 l, constantly

Kids (I don’t use a wick)

According to the same scheme (fertilizers with each watering).

Recipe from Alexey Kuznetsov

For miniature violets:

Mature violets on the wick

fine peat (from nature) - 25%

Perlite - 75%

Fertilizer:

alternating "Etisso" for flowers (1 ml per 1 l) and for decorative foliage plants (2 ml per l) every watering

Replant after each flowering.

Children without a wick:

The soil is the same

Fertilizer:

"Etisso" (for decorative foliage) 2 ml per l each watering

Choose, experiment and you will find your own soil composition that you and your violets will like. These soils can be successfully used in growing other Gesneriaceae, such as streptocarpus.

I will add that never reuse any components of the earthen mixture, because... harmful microorganisms could already begin to multiply there!

Good luck and success in growing your violets and other favorite flowers.

As a child, I naively thought that to plant indoor flowers it was enough to simply collect soil from the garden, because there is nutritious black soil there. And to prevent scary worms (of which I was very afraid) from getting into the pot, I collected soil only in a molehill, since my mother assured me that the mole hunts for worms, so there are guaranteed to be none in its hole.

But later I realized that not all crops thrive in 100% black soil. For example, my favorite violets simply faded away in it. Well, I was lucky to find out in time about the ideal components of the earth for such flowers. Transfer to the right soil managed to save my bright pets!

First of all, it must be airy: it must allow oxygen to pass through well, allowing the roots to breathe, and not retain water.

Acidity is also important. Violets love soil with neutral acidity. If you prepare the substrate with your own hands, it is difficult to accurately guess the acidity, but if you buy soil, look for pH numbers from 6.5 to 6.8.

Buy or make it yourself

Buying is the simplest solution. Moreover, there are a lot of soils for violets on sale, and they are relatively inexpensive.

But experienced flower growers We are sure: in most of these soils the main component is peat. When watering, it begins to “caking” and hardening, and then three months pass, and the roots of the planted Saintpaulia no longer receive required quantity oxygen.

Therefore, you can either replant the flower often (but it does not like such procedures), or carefully select soils, re-reading the compositions on the packs and reviews on the Internet.

But the best thing is to make the substrate yourself.

Although, of course, if you have just started to get interested in violets or flowers in general, you probably won’t have a bag of vermiculite in your apartment and so on. similar materials. The best decision for you it is still a purchase of soil. The girl consultant will tell you how to choose it in the store:

What components are used to prepare the substrate for Saintpaulia?

• Leaf humus. If you prepare it yourself, look for birch - it provides the best raw materials for such humus.
• Turf. This is the top ball of soil in a deciduous forest, intertwined with the roots of grasses and other plants.
• Perlite and/or vermiculite. Small pieces of minerals, sold at most flower or gardening stores. These substances come in different fractions (sizes). Take small pebbles. They are added to the soil to loosen it. Vermiculite can retain moisture after watering, and then slowly release it to the roots of the flower.
• Sphagnum moss. Another option is to fluff up the soil. It is added to the main soil composition or used instead of vermiculite. Moss can be bought in a store or found in the forest, swamp, or near a pond. Conveniently, sphagnum moss can be used both raw and dried. Have you collected a lot of moss and have no time to dry it? Freeze the sphagnum moss and just let it thaw before using it the next time.
• Sand. You need a large one, a river one. This additive also makes the soil airier, simultaneously protecting the substrate from drying out.
• Peat. Be careful with it: on the one hand, it is nutritious and light, on the other, as I already said, it can thicken. So add it little by little.
• Coconut substrate. This is a purchased substance, although you can also prepare it if you buy coconuts. Like peat, it is used as a minor nutrient additive to the basic composition of the soil.

Important! Collected in wildlife(even in the most eco-friendly reserve) the ingredients must be thoroughly disinfected. Humus, turf and peat can be calcined in the oven or kept in a water bath, rinse the sand, then calcine it too, and pour boiling water over the sphagnum moss.

And of course, after purchasing/procuring all these substances, immediately plan to purchase drainage for the bottom of the pot. Fill the vessel chosen for Saintpaulia at least 1/3 full with expanded clay, then add a layer of charcoal (it will additionally nourish the flower and also protect it from rot), and only after that add soil.

Best Recipes

• For newbies. 3 shares of leaf humus and turf, 2 shares of sand and sphagnum, 1.5 shares of perlite and 1 share of vermiculite, a handful of peat and coconut coir (substrate).
• For the pros. If you have been growing violets for more than one year, then you probably put all the ingredients by eye. This is the recipe for success... If, of course, you know well what the right soil for violets should look like.

Another proven composition flower soil you can hear in this video:

And one last thing. Even if you have already bought ready-made soil, it can be enriched with perlite, sphagnum and coconut briquettes. This will only make him better.

Is it worth adding fertilizer here?

When talking about fertilizers, many people think of store-bought bags of whitish mineral powder. But when planting violets, you can also use natural ingredients that are less dangerous to humans.

• Charcoal or ash. These substances also contain a lot of minerals. I already said above that it is convenient to lay large pieces of coal on top of expanded clay. But small coals can be added to the soil, the main thing is without going overboard. Alternatively, you can crush a few tablets from the pharmacy. activated carbon, it is no less useful for Saintpaulia.
• Mullein (“cakes” that cows lose everywhere). Another natural source microelements important for the flower. The violet, which is pampered with such nutrition when transplanted, blooms especially brightly and richly. Just don’t throw large pieces of mullein into the ground, chop them up. You can also add “cakes” later, when the flower is already planted - soak them and use the water for watering.
• Eggshell. Potassium and calcium are what gets into the soil from the shell. It also reduces acidity. By the way, some gardeners use it instead of expanded clay and are very pleased with this drainage.

Important! If you have purchased soil, you should not add it to it. extra food. Surely the manufacturer has already taken care of fertilizing, and too much nutrients may be dangerous for the flower.

Features of planting violets

Flowers can be planted in freshly created soil. But experienced gardeners advise letting the soil you mixed sit for 2-3 weeks.

Before planting, immerse your hands in the soil and feel it. Remove large pieces of any ingredient.

Immediately after planting the flower, water it a little.

Choosing a pot

Some people believe that violet is good only in plastic pot(and this could even be disposable cup or cut out bottle). But I have these flowers in beautiful ceramic pots and are also quite happy with life.

My opinion: the main thing is that there is a hole at the bottom of any vessel to drain excess water. Well, and the pallet, of course. I most often water my flowers through it.

Instead of an afterword: briefly about the most important things

• A good soil composition for Saintpaulias: leaf humus + turf + perlite or vermiculite + coarse sand + sphagnum.
• What to choose, store-bought or home-mixed soil? Of course, the second, especially if you have access to the forest where you can harvest turf and moss.
• Homemade soil can be made more nutritious by adding crushed eggshells, charcoal, mullein.
• When planting or transplanting violets, do not forget that this crop requires drainage. Expanded clay is good for this.