Entrance metal doors for outbuildings and sheds. Door made of wooden boards to the barn - simple and reliable Sliding door to the barn

External doors for utility units are economy class metal doors. They have simple design, consisting of a frame, canvas, lock, hinge system, closer. To make inexpensive doors, the manufacturer uses steel with a thickness of 1.2-1.5 mm. Stiffening ribs at doors for utility units are often absent, but in some models they are included.

The lock for the doors of outbuildings usually corresponds to the second class of burglary resistance. This is enough to protect the shed from attempts to open it by protozoa. household tool. Door hinges must be strong and reliable.

Doors for outbuildings, as a rule, do not have insulation or sealing contours. Their absence reduces the cost of the input unit.

At the buyer's request, the door leaf can be supplemented with cheap foam, which provides minimal heat and sound insulation properties of the product. If you need soundproofed entrance doors, take a closer look at designs with an internal layer of basalt slab, mineral wool or polyurethane foam.

Doors are made from one or two sheets of cold-rolled steel. The frame of the product is welded or bent. The number of hinges varies from two to four, depending on the weight of the sash. For convenient operation, a comfortable ergonomic handle is attached to the blade.

Barn doors are painted with polymer or primer paint. They protect metal well from corrosion and also serve decorative coating. Primer paint is cheaper, polymer paint is more expensive. Powder-coated doors have proven themselves to be durable and practical entrance blocks.

Outdoor metal doors to order

Metal doors for utility rooms are produced using automated equipment. In the manufacture of doors, welding machines, polymerization ovens, painting chambers, painting guns, guillotines, grinders, hacksaws and much more are used. The work is carried out by staff qualified specialists. Ready doors packaged and delivered to the customer.

They are installing doors experienced craftsmen. They will clear the opening, install the door frame, insert the sash, attaching it to the frame, and seal the cracks. The work usually takes about two to three hours.

When choosing an outdoor metal door, consider the size of the opening. For outbuildings with large items the best option there will be installation of one and a half floor or double doors. Metal doors with non-standard sizes can be ordered from the STROYSTALINVEST company.

As you probably remember, I didn't have enough lumber to complete the construction of the barn, and completion of the work had to be delayed. And finally, after 2 seasons, I started last stage the buildings.
The boards I needed were left over from building the house, which I will talk about in another section of the site. All that remains is to buy two wooden doors with frames and the necessary hardware: door hinges(left), handles, as well as fire protection for wood with maple and pine colors.

If you remember, I left the barn in this unfinished state:

I started work, perhaps, from the most difficult moment - assembling and installing door frames. I bought solid wood doors, and as a box, each door was accompanied by a set of three bars with cuts made in them for the door leaf. Therefore, we had to take measurements, cut these bars taking into account the door gaps and connect them into a box.

We install the internal door.

I started with the installation interior door leading to that part of the barn that I prepared for a small workshop.

On the one side assembled box secured it to a vertical wall beam, and placed it on the other side to secure the box vertical stand from scraps of magpie boards, fortunately there were quite a lot of such two-meter scraps left over in the manufacture of rafters.

Next we had to tinker a little with installing the hinges. To do this, I first set the lower gap between the door and the frame using slipped corners - they are convenient to adjust the gap by increasing or decreasing it by driving in or pulling out the corner.

Then, having marked the locations of the top and bottom hinges, using a set of chisels, I selected excess wood (about 2-3 mm) so that when installed, the hinge would sink slightly into the frame and door leaf.
Having attached the upper and lower hinges to the door with a pair of self-tapping screws, I placed suitable pieces of wood under the door leaf and, adjusting the hinges to their places, finally secured the door in the frame.

Install outer door.

Using the same principle, I installed an external door to the barn. Only in this case, as a second vertical support For door frame I used a piece of timber and a piece of magpie board on top. I also secured them with steel corners and sewed them on the side diagonally with self-tapping screws.

It was necessary to use 100x100 timber due to the convenience of attaching the outer wall boards, as well as in the future door frames, under vertical board which we leave a gap in the thickness of the board used (approximately 25 mm).

Important! Let me remind you that I processed all the boards from the front (outside) side with an electric planer. At the same time, we save wood impregnation and also increase the wood’s resistance to adverse conditions. external influences water.

To make it easier to work with the plane, I slightly modernized sawhorses for sawing wood, namely: I screwed two planks to the “horns” of the goats with self-tapping screws. Now it has become convenient to place a whole board on them and go through them with a plane.

We cover the walls with boards.

Well, then everything is as simple as shelling pears - we saw the board to size and sew it in place where it should be.
Internal wall, between the woodshed and the workshop, I sewed up the boards end-to-end, having previously processed them with a plane on all sides, paying attention Special attention"ribs" to minimize gaps. Of course, they still form when the wood dries, well, for aesthetics...))

Co external wall I had to tinker a little so that the boards didn’t start to “peck” up or down. To control, I used a level and also took measurements along the sheathed wall through the door for each board from the bottom.

Having finished sewing up the outer front wall, I left an unsewn area above the door for installing a small canopy there in the future. A little lower you will see what I meant.

Having finished painting, I began manufacturing and installing the door frames and the canopy over the door. Well, there’s nothing special to explain, everything can be seen in the photograph.

Today, not only city residents, but also the majority of country property owners prefer metal constructions. In theory, they are much stronger, more reliable and durable than their wooden or plastic counterparts. But in reality, many respectable looking metal doors from the budget segment can be opened can opener, and the scrap for them is universal key. Not everyone can afford to install a massive, expensive structure, and high cost is not a guarantee of appropriate quality.

Therefore, craftsmen with skills welding work and the corresponding tool base, they prefer to make such doors themselves. In this situation, you can be confident in the strength of the frame, and in decent noise absorption and thermal insulation parameters, and appearance give in the general style. FORUMHOUSE users They have also mastered the process and are sharing the results. We study their experience and prepare a metal door.

Experience - best helper
Useful tips for beginners from experienced ones

Metal entrance doors - constructive

IN standard version a metal door consists of a frame, leaf, hinges and mounting elements (plates, eyes, pins). You cannot do without certain costs for materials and components, but a self-made door will cost much less than a purchased one. The exact list of consumables depends on the design, dimensions and purpose - if for a simple frame with lining and a latch, then to enter the house the door must be multi-layered, with effective locking fittings and decorative cladding. In the second case, an approximate set of what is needed looks like this:

Metal corner (from 5 mm) or profile - for the box;
Metal corner or profile pipe - for the frame, stiffeners;
Sheet of metal - for power sheathing ( optimal thickness 2-3 mm).
Thermal insulation material (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, EPS or PSB);
Components – hinges (preferably with bearings), seal, peephole, lock/locks, handle, etc.;
Finishing – wood, forging, plastic (for inside various panels or laminate).

One of the most important stages– measurements; if you make a mistake, installing the door in the future will be significantly more complicated, so you should adhere to certain recommendations:

All measurements are taken not from the finishing layer, but from the rough wall;
There should be a groove between the frame and the opening, the standard one is 2 cm (for alignment and installation seam);
The gap between the box and the canvas on the hinge side is 3 mm, on the lock side – 5 mm.

Having a working drawing with dimensions or at least a sketch will be a good help; not everyone’s imagination is developed enough to imagine the end result in their mind. Fortunately, there are plenty of quite workable drawings on the Internet, although drawing and drawing are also difficult.

Experience is the best assistant

But the best assistant is the experience that the participants of our portal generously share.

A 20x40 mm profile pipe was used for the frame, a metal sheet 3 mm thick, insulator – mineral wool, finishing – MDF.

Since it is necessary to cook the frame on a hard, flat surface, and the craftsman did not have a suitable cooking table, he used beams placed in the same plane. He also used clamps to maintain the geometry of the product; some of them slightly “grab” the elements to the cooking table during the welding process. dronduletus I made the door in several stages.

I cut the pipe to size, did not observe the 45⁰ angles, since the welding was carried out end-to-end, assembled the frame, beat off the diagonal, grabbed it, checked it, and secured it with clamps. I welded the frame and welded the stiffeners.

The sheet for the sheathing was cut taking into account allowances for overlap along the entire perimeter (1.5 cm), and secured to the frame with clamps. I first welded it from the inside of the frame - from the middle to the edge, using clamps (about 2 cm in increments of 15-20 cm). To make the sheet less sticky, cook it diagonally - opposite sides in different directions. Afterwards, I welded the external seams in the same way, cleaned them with a grinder, and welded them along the stiffening ribs in the same order. It was possible to get by with just one rib, but the sheet turned out to be curved. Next, I welded the “pocket” for the lock - I cut a groove in the end, and scalded it around the perimeter with profile scraps.

I made the box from a 40x40 mm corner, used a 100x50 mm channel for the threshold, and when cutting the segments I added gaps not only for the hinges and the lock, but also up and down (4 mm each). As a protection against those who like to profit from other people's goods, I welded additional plates/plugs over the place where the crossbar will fit the full width (on both sides). I welded metal strips to attach the box to the wall (two on top and three on the sides). It protected not only from knocking out the bolt, but also from removing the door from its hinges.

dronduletus

I welded pieces of corner 8 cm wide inside the door, on the back side of the frame, lifting it 8 mm from it - these are anti-removal crabs.

I welded the canopies in a horizontal position - placing the canvas in a box and placing a 2 mm thick steel plate between the canopy and the canvas, so that the seal could be glued on afterwards and avoid friction. I welded the canopies at a distance of 25 cm from the edge of the canvas to the center of each canopy, having previously checked the level and secured with clamps.

Since the walls are old and leave much to be desired, I abandoned conventional anchors and used pins only to fix the threshold (channel). The frame was secured with studs 25 cm long (diameter 12 mm) and chemical anchors. After installing the frame, I hung the door and drilled holes for the bolt. I laid insulation in the door cavity and sewed everything up MDF panels, painted.

Another portal participant did not photograph the process, but his observations will be useful to anyone who is planning to start making a door.

outsider FORUMHOUSE Member

I also welded the doors; I didn’t take any photos during the process, but I’ll tell you the details. I did this with my father-in-law, they welded a bunch of these doors as a sub at the factory.

DIY metal door, life hacks and conclusions:

It is better to take hot-rolled iron for cladding; cold-rolled iron has tight geometry and right angles;
To weld the hinge plate to the box with a clamp, you need to hold it lightly and immediately release it. When the seam cools, the plate will bend with the required gap. All loops are scalded after fixation;

If you do special device(as in the figure), pressing the sheet to the corner when welding will avoid “bubbles”;

To prevent the door leaf from touching the frame during operation, the hinges are welded so that the hinge axis is on the edge of the sheet;

Intermediate draft result in the photo.

Master81 welded two metal doors - double-leaf and single (255x110 mm and 210x0.72 mm), and, looking at his creation, it is clear that he is “on the short end” with metal.

The box was welded from a corner five millimeters thick, six is possible, but four is undesirable, the frame is made of profile pipe 40x20 mm. The manufacture of the structure did not cause any difficulties.

Master81 FORUMHOUSE Member

I measured the doorway, minus a centimeter from the width and length, cut the corner straight with a grinder, first assembled the frame, then the frame for the door.

Another one of our craftsmen, FORUMHOUSE member from Moscow with nickname oss, has already made the sixth metal door, if you count Garage Doors. The canvas is three millimeters thick, the frame is made of a 50x40x3 mm profile pipe, like most, but he approached the issue of safety thoroughly. Armor lining, internal lining, lever lock with four crossbars, a protective curtain in the well. These improvements have increased the cost of the product, but peace of mind is more valuable. No photo oss compensates with an optimized assembly process and useful tips.

oss FORUMHOUSE Member

Before this, I made doors using different techniques, including first tying, and then tacking and assembling the frame. The sequence chosen this time seems more optimistic.

The optimized version looks like this:

I started with the front vertical profile, made a frame, secured the lock in the frame, checked how it worked;
I made a rear vertical profile, immediately welded the anti-pullers (behind the hinges);
I assembled the entire frame from profiles using tacks;
I cut out the trim along the frame (with an overlap of 20 mm);
“I baited” the sheet, scalded it with oven mitts in increments of 150 mm;
In the racks of the box (trimming) I cut out grooves for the crossbars and anti-removals;
I welded a box with gaps (3 and 5 mm);
Welded the hinges.

ABOUT ss advises to insert one combined door lock instead of two different types.

Conclusion

In a thread on the forum dedicated to, the opinion was expressed that the costs of homemade products would be significant, and the savings would not be so significant that the game would be worth the candle. However for skillful hands and the manufacturing process is quite feasible, and the ability to choose decent materials, and not guess what’s inside the purchased structure, is an important factor. Therefore, while some are talking about the feasibility, others are doing and sharing real experience to make the task easier for beginners.

You can learn how to save on wooden entrance doors from the article - also on our portal. The video contains an overview of popular new doors from the famous exhibition.

A door is a device that allows people to pass through walls. The design includes two main elements. The first is a canvas that, when closed, imitates an “insurmountable” wall, the second is a mechanism with which it opens doorway. By connecting the canvas with the hanging mechanism and adjusting their coordinated work, everyone can confidently say that they have made a door.

Wooden door manufacturing technology

Making a wooden door is very simple. It all depends on the materials that are available. If this is a door for a hut, then with the help of a rope, a knife and sticks of equal thickness, in a matter of minutes you can tie them into a smooth, flat sheet, and use the same twine instead of hinges. But if the task is to make a door to a house or apartment, then you will need special woodworking tools - a saw, a plane, a sander.

You can make doors of any complexity with your own hands, the main thing is to have the desire and carpentry skills

More recently - about 100 years ago, metal fasteners were very expensive. Therefore, craftsmen made doors without the use of nails and screws. The connections were made of wood, consisting of tenons, grooves and dowels ( wooden nails). It took skill and fine craftsmanship to precisely fit the parts by hand. Good master I made the door over several days. With the advent of mechanization and automation of production, the production of doors was put on a conveyor belt, and “ human factor» Demoted to adjusting and setting up numerically controlled machines.

Video: door production at the factory

In today's world, almost every home has a set of tools and devices that allow you to make a simple door for your own use. The materials are available and often the only task is to correct assembly and fit.

The most common are two types of doors, fundamentally different in design:

Frame (panel) construction. The frame of the future door is made from solid wood, consisting of two posts and crossbars. The interior space is covered with panel material such as plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. The resulting cavity is filled with “honeycombs” or soundproofing material. As a rule, this is a canvas rectangular shape. There are no restrictions on dimensions, but the established shape of the doorway is 2 meters in height and 0.5–0.8 m in width. In rare cases, doors are made bigger size. For example, 2.2 m high and 90 cm wide. But in this case it is necessary to use more powerful hinges, since the mass of the sash increases.
Panel door assembled from wooden slats, fits well with country style
Paneled construction. In this case, the door consists entirely of natural wood. At the same time, its mass and strength increase. It is clear that whole piece a tree measuring 2x0.6 m will be very expensive. Therefore, the canvas is made from components, connecting them into a single plane. By definition, paneling is a thin board or plywood inserted inside wooden frame. Moreover, it can be replaceable.
A paneled door made of solid wood can be decorated with artistic carvings

With current door production technologies, the clear division of the door leaf structure into frame and panel has been somewhat erased. The doors can be combined, combining elements of both panels and panels.

Video: Are doors today divided into panel and panel doors (expert opinion)

Industrial production of wooden doors includes the following stages:

Preparation of wood material.
Additional processing and preparation of the array (drying, gluing and impregnation).
Manufacturing of canvas and frame parts.
Assembly of the structure.
Finishing work (painting, varnishing, laminating, etc.).

When making doors yourself, all stages are reproduced at home.

Equipment and tools

For the manufacture of various types doors are needed different instruments. A simple panel sheet is constructed using a hacksaw (with a small furniture tooth), a hammer or a screwdriver if the fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws. A more “advanced” door is assembled using electrical devices:

Manual electric router. It is used to mill panel parts and give them profile view. Groove joints require the removal of wood, which is also done using a milling machine.
The router kit includes a set of cutters with different lengths and cutting edge configurations
Screwdriver or drill. Needed for sash assembly. Please note that when using a drill, you need a tool with adjustable speed. Too fast a starting rotation will not allow you to control the process of immersion of the fastener.
A screwdriver with adjustable speed and rotation power will allow you to correct installation fasteners
A circular saw. Manual or stationary. With its help, wooden boards are cut into pieces. Accuracy in cuts is important, so the saw must be well adjusted. An unbalanced blade will cut unevenly and cause chips.
The built-in ruler on the circular saw allows you to cut boards to a given size
Grinder with a set of grinding attachments. Power and high revs corner grinding machine in this situation they are only welcome.
Polishing of a wooden surface is carried out with special attachments
Measuring tools - tape measure or carpenter's meter, marker, straight ruler, rectangle.
Set of carpentry hand tools: hammer, mallet, chisels, clamps, etc.
Varied hand tools significantly speed up the door assembly process

It is advisable to assemble on a workbench or desktop - it is much more convenient and faster.

As for the material for the doors, here great importance has a design and shape of the canvas. Inserts can be made of MDF, chipboard, OSB or just plywood. The choice of material depends on the purpose of the doors. For the entrance, materials with high strength, for interior - lighter, decorative types wood

The door frame is made from solid wooden blocks. You will need two bars a little more than 2 m long for the racks and two meter bars of the same cross-section for the crossbars. A quarter equal to the thickness is selected on one side door leaf. However, a prefabricated frame design is also possible, in which the supporting surface is created by building up thin slats.

The blank for the door frame is made taking into account the thickness of the door leaf

Most available material- these are boards made of pine and spruce. Spruce lumber is stronger, but pine has a more beautiful texture and fewer knots. Soft-leaved wood species - birch, linden, poplar - are practically not used for making doors. Solid oak wood is very popular. Its structure is strong and durable. However, harvesting oak is an expensive process, which naturally affects the final price.

For simple doors with insert from laminated chipboard you will need:

edged boards 40–60 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide, with a total length of 6 m;
Boards High Quality calibrated in all four planes
laminated chipboard sheet, with total area no more than 2 m2;
Chipboard cutting to specified dimensions can be ordered from the supplier upon purchase.
PVA glue;
Glue is used to strengthen fasteners wooden elements doors
varnish or paint;
confirmations from 25 to 35 mm long.
Color-matched plastic plugs make connections virtually invisible

Confirmats are special screws with a smoothed end and an “invisible” head. They are used in assembling furniture and other joinery products. Distinctive feature is a wide thread pitch, which allows you to securely fasten both fibrous wood and pressed sheets of particle boards. There are confirmed slots different configurations- from ordinary cross to hex and star. Accordingly, a suitable attachment is selected for the screwdriver.

To install the confirmat, a special drill with an extension in the upper part is used

Calculations and drawings

A well-drawn drawing will help you avoid mistakes and waste of materials when making doors. A sketch and detailing are made on a sheet of paper, indicating the exact dimensions of each component of the canvas.

The drawing shows all design features doors

According to construction GOSTs The following parameters are accepted when installing doors:

The distance from the corner to the hinges at the bottom and top is the same and is 15–25 cm.
During installation, it is necessary to observe technological clearances
The door handle is installed at a height of 80–90 cm from the floor. The position of the locking device on the sash is determined by the lock device. The strike plate is located on the frame and recessed into the wood so that its plane coincides with the plane of the door frame.
The handle and lock are installed on the door last.
The viewing window is placed at eye level - 150–160 cm from the bottom edge of the door leaf.
If the door leaf has ventilation grille, it is attached in the middle of the door leaf, at a distance of 15–20 cm from the floor.
The ventilation grille can be equipped with a built-in electric fan

You should also pay attention to the seal, which is mounted around the perimeter of the frame. The shapes of rubber seals are different and depending on this, the geometry of the door frame profile is formed. Some types of seals require additional recessing for installation.

Before installing self-adhesive door seal you need to remove the protective film

And finally, the door threshold. Most often in interior doors there is no threshold. This saves materials and reduces assembly time. But entrance doors without a threshold they are too vulnerable and allow cold air to pass through. Therefore, it is advisable to strengthen this part of the door frame with a metal trim.

Metal trim increases the strength of the door threshold

Video: making a simple panel door

Step by step instructions

Let's consider the technology self-made wooden door:

Preparatory stage. The prepared boards are carefully processed using a grinding attachment on a grinder to a polished surface. To do this, it is necessary to use three types of emery: coarse-grained (No. 40), then medium-grained (No. 80) and fine-grained (No. 120). If the boards are planed, then start immediately with a medium-grain sheet. Final goal polishing - absolutely smooth surface with well-developed wood grain lines. It should be taken into account that different rocks have different hardness. Processing pine, birch and linden will not take much time and effort. You will have to work hard on oak or ash.
Vibratory grinders are used for polishing wood.
Next, you need to mill the parts in accordance with the intended door design. Using a router and a set of shaped cutters, the ends are given the desired configuration. Each insert is adjusted to its groove individually. In addition, you need to make a deep groove along the inner perimeter of the frame. A sheet of chipboard is subsequently inserted into it. The size of the groove is selected in accordance with the thickness of the chipboard - a tolerance of 1 mm is made for lapping. Standard thickness chipboard used for doors - 16 mm. This means that the width of the groove will be 17 mm. The depth is selected from 15 to 20 mm, this is enough to securely secure the insert into the frame of the canvas. It must be remembered that in the interests of long-term operation, the depth of the groove is made 1.5–2 mm larger than the size of the tenon. Another option is possible, when laminated chipboard is attached to the canvas frame with glazing beads. Then, instead of a groove on the side posts, it is enough to choose a quarter.
It is advisable to carry out the sampling of the quarter on a firmly fixed canvas
Cutting the ends of the boards at an angle of 45°. If it is possible to use an end circular saw, the process is significantly speeded up. But if it is not there, the marking is carried out with a simple protractor, and the cut will be made by an ordinary circular or hand saw. It is important to accurately maintain the size, which must be measured along the long side of the door frame.
The miter saw allows you to make high-quality cuts at any angle
Cut the panels, in our case a sheet of chipboard. The size of the height and width is calculated based on the depth of the groove. The width of the two prepared boards (top and bottom) is subtracted from the total height of the doors and the depth of the groove is added. For example, with a door height of 2 m, a width of the top and bottom crossbars of 15 cm and a groove depth of 20 mm, we have: 2000-(150x2)+(20x2) = 174 cm. The same calculations are carried out for the width.
Primary installation. It is carried out for the final adjustment of all parts into a single structure. Everything is assembled on a workbench (or on the floor), cracks and gaps are checked, and the general geometry of the canvas is checked. If “inconsistencies” are detected, the canvas is disassembled and adjusted. If there are no deviations, the door can be secured with confirmations. To do this, first drill holes to match the diameter of the head, then screw in the screw with the head immersed “flush”.
Decorating the door leaf. Of the types available at home, the most acceptable are painting and varnishing. Glue decorative film or veneer on rounded surfaces will not work well. Good help When applying a paint layer, a spray bottle may appear. With its help, you can achieve uniform coating on the surface of the door. However, this also requires certain experience and skills. Many experts believe that decoration is the most important and difficult stage in the manufacture of doors.
Doors are varnished in a well-ventilated and lit room.
Installation of accessories. It is carried out last, when the product is already installed in doorway. Technological holes for inserting the lock and handle are prepared in advance. The recesses for the canopies are cut out with a chisel based on the size of the hinges. The only exception is the rubber seal. If its configuration involves deepening into the array, the groove is cut out at the preparation stage.
The shape of the holes is determined by the configuration of the door hardware

Video: making a wooden entrance door with your own hands

DIY barn door

For simple household needs it is not necessary to collect paneled door with complex structural elements. A panel-type door, consisting of a prefabricated panel and a wooden door frame, is quite suitable for a utility room or barn. Doors made from lining or tongue-and-groove boards are very convenient in this regard. These lumber are sold with already planed grooves and a smooth surface.

The manufacturing process is very simple: