External filters for an aquarium: selecting and installing. How to install and use aquarium filters Installing an aquarium filter
Dear readers, I welcome you to the pages of the site myaquaworld.ru. Today I propose to discuss options for installing an internal filter pump in an aquarium. In this article we will look at mounting methods, flow direction, pros and cons of various assembly options.
It just so happened that, due to their availability, compactness and ease of use, as well as installation in an aquarium, pump filters become the first filters for beginners. Models currently produced great amount. But today we will not dwell in detail on the choice of a specific model. We will talk about how to properly install an already selected and purchased filter in an aquarium.
Any internal filter pump consists of two parts: a motor pump and a filter part. The motor pump is the same pump that drives and creates a flow of water through the filter element. And the filter part is a compartment with a filter element located in it. It is he who is responsible for purifying water from turbidity and suspended particles. All internal filters are hermetically sealed, so the only option for using them is to completely immerse them in water.
Mounting methods
Manufacturers call the main methods of attaching filters to glass:
Using suction cups.
Using an additional bracket.
Combined (suction cups + additional bracket).
Suckers
Fastening with suction cups is the simplest and most effective. This option makes it easy to remove the filter from the water. The suction cups are located on the body of the device itself and are removed from the aquarium along with it, or are installed on a separate platform. In this case, the filter is attached to the bracket using grooves or latches and, if necessary, is removed from the water separately.
It is also worth noting that over time, suction cups lose their elasticity and the reliability of the attachment decreases. In this case, they are replaced with new ones. In addition, a filter installed on suction cups not on clean glass, but on a bacterial film, is prone to slipping from its original location. Therefore, the installation site of the filter must be thoroughly cleaned of slippery deposits.
Additional bracket
Fastening with an additional bracket is more reliable, as it allows you to hook onto the edge of the aquarium with a special plastic hook. A filter installed in this way is not in danger of slipping. However, manufacturers often complete their products with a bracket that is designed for installation on thick glass (used either in large aquariums or made of plexiglass). As a result, it is not possible to securely fix the device in the aquarium, which serves as a source of extraneous sounds. Also, the presence of a hook extended outside the container may make it impossible to install the aquarium lid or the need to pass it through one of the specially made windows. These slots are not always well located in terms of the location of the filter, and can also have an unfortunate effect on the design of your aquarium in that they will dictate where the filter is installed in the tank.
Maintenance of filters mounted on a bracket is the most convenient, since you do not need to put your hands in the water to remove the product from the aquarium.
Combined method
The combined mounting method is the option of installing the filter simultaneously using suction cups and a bracket. This type of installation is distinguished by the most reliable fixation of the product in the aquarium, although it combines the disadvantages of both types of fastenings.
Conditions for effective work
For efficient work The internal filter requires a number of conditions:
The filter must create sufficient water flow through the filter element, that is, have adequate performance for the aquarium of the size you choose.
The placement of the filter in the aquarium should exclude the presence of stagnant zones.
The filter must be accessible for maintenance and cleaning.
Installing the device in an aquarium should lead to the realization of the pursued goals.
Performance
Filter performance is determined by the amount of water in liters passing through the filter element per unit of time. It is the main unit that determines the filtration rate, and should be selected from the condition that 4-5 volumes of your aquarium should be pumped through the filter per hour.
No dead zones
The placement of the filter in the aquarium should exclude the presence of stagnant zones. This means that the filter must create a flow of water in the aquarium of such strength and direction that there are no areas or zones throughout the entire volume where there is very little or no water flow. This guarantees that the entire volume of the aquarium will be served by the filter. It is unacceptable that only part of the internal space is subject to filtration due to blocking the flow with decorations, directing the flow across the aquarium, etc. In the case of using large volumes or very long containers, it would be reasonable to use several filters installed on opposite sides. Many modern filter models are equipped with a number of devices that help implement this rule. For your convenience and to customize devices for specific conditions, manufacturers equip filters with flow regulators, rotating heads and diffusers to move water in the direction you need.
Accessibility for maintenance and cleaning
The correct selection of a place to install the filter in the aquarium should provide easy access to it for maintenance and cleaning. It is no secret that over time, the filter element, and the pump itself, becomes clogged with particles of dirt, fish waste, etc. This is logical, because this is why we install a filter in the aquarium. Therefore, even the most high-tech and modern device After some time it will require maintenance and cleaning. For internal pump filters, this means removing them from the aquarium. Therefore, at the stage of planning the design and choosing the location for installing the product, it is necessary to take care of the convenience of this process. Since disassembling part of your design, moving snags and damaging plants to clean the filter element weekly will only bring negative emotions.
Realization of goals
Installing the device in an aquarium should lead to the realization of the pursued goals. This imposes certain requirements on the functionality of the filter used. If you intend to operate the filter in aeration mode and do not additionally install a compressor, then at a minimum, the device must include a special nozzle. As a rule, additional purchases of accessories not included in the product may bring additional difficulties in finding original accessories or selecting compatible ones.
Operating modes
For the most part, all pump filters, in addition to their main purpose (water filtration), can also perform additional functions. These are aeration, circulation, sprinkling.
Consider these options:
Circulation
The main version of the filter pump operation. To implement it, no devices are required, since this is the main thing for which we use the filter. Without water circulation, there will be no current, which means there will be no filtration. A filter that does not circulate does not perform its main function. Sometimes the product is supplied with an expanding nozzle, which generates a wide flow of water, which reduces eddy currents in the aquarium while maintaining the original performance. In addition, this use case is the most preferable in terms of noise. However, when using the filter in circulation mode, it is worth taking care of organizing aeration (at least at night) using a compressor or an additional aerator pump.
Aeration
The most commonly used function of pump filters. To do this, the manufacturer supplies its products with an additional nozzle, which is a special diffuser with an attached air intake hose. Often a blower intensity regulator is installed at the end of the hose. This use of the device allows you to reduce the amount of equipment used to maintain the aquarium. However, it is worth remembering that the intensity of aeration will greatly depend on the performance of the filter and its installation depth.
With a selected and constant filter performance, as the depth of its installation increases, the intensity of aeration decreases, and when a certain depth is reached, it stops altogether.
Also, the main differences between aeration performed by a filter and aeration performed using a compressor is the inability of the pump to blow air through the bottom layer of water. In addition, there is a potential danger of fish killing at night if the filter stops due to its heavy pollution(if you, for example, went on vacation). In addition, the disadvantages include a decrease in productivity and filtration efficiency in relation to the circulation mode, as well as an increased noise level.
Sprinkling
This mode is performed using a special attachment called a “flute” and additional adapters and fasteners. Sprinkling allows for very intense vertical mixing of water layers without creating strong flows. This solution is most justified for the use of high-performance filters in planted herbal aquariums, where intense currents have a detrimental effect on plants. In this case, the flute is located along the long edge of the aquarium and water is released through small holes along its entire length. The closer the length of the flute is to the length of the aquarium, the more intense the circulation of water and the weaker the flows created in it.
Small flutes are installed directly on the filter body and do not require additional fastening, while long ones are installed using suction cups on the wall of the aquarium and connected to the pump with a plastic tube or flexible hose.
The classic position of the flute involves installation above the water level. This placement ensures the saturation of water with oxygen due to its intensive mixing upper layers, and also helps get rid of bacterial film. Of the minuses, it is worth noting that this solution is the noisiest of all options for using an internal filter pump. The noise level is 8 dB higher than when the product is operating in circulator mode and 2 dB in aerator mode. In addition, there is a noticeable decrease in pump performance due to the need to pump water through narrow holes in the flute.
General background noise
Circulation mode
Aeration mode
Sprinkling mode
If you nevertheless appreciate all the advantages of this installation option and decide to use it, then as measures to reduce the noise level, we can recommend directing the streams of water coming out of the flute onto the glass of the aquarium. Using this method, however, will reduce the efficiency of aeration.
Sprinkling mode with the direction of water flow from the flute to the glass
There is an opinion that in herbal aquariums the flute must be placed below the water level to avoid mixing of its upper layers, which leads to loss of dissolved carbon dioxide. With this installation option, the water is not saturated with oxygen and the bacterial film is not broken, but the noise level is comparable to the noise of a pump operating in circulation mode. However, in this case, to carry out aeration at night, it is necessary to raise the flute above the water level (if the noise from the aquarium does not interfere with your sleep or it is installed in non-residential premises) or organize air purging in other ways.
Video of different filter operating modes
Operating modes of the internal filter
Good luck to you! See you soon on the pages of the Myaquaworld .ru website
The technology for properly installing a water filter is always of interest to novice aquarists. And this is natural, since a lot depends on this device, including the physical condition of the “residents” of an artificial home pond.
Types of filters according to their installation method
There are 3 main types of aquarium water purifiers: external, internal and bottom. Accordingly, the installation of each such device depends on its belonging to one type or another.
So, external filters - they are also called canister filters - are installed outside the aquarium, and the suction and outlet hoses are lowered inside the tank (or mounted through special adapters and holes). The principle of installing a bottom cleaner is clear from the name itself: it is placed directly on the prepared bottom of the “can.” It should be noted that these 2 types of devices are used, as a rule, in large-capacity aquariums.
Most often, beginners prefer to clean the habitat of their pets using small filters located inside the aquarium. Such devices are also commonly called “glasses”. It is these devices that can most often be seen in small artificial home and office ponds.
How to install an internal filter
So, in a specialized store, with the help of a consultant, the necessary internal water purifier was selected. Before doing this, you should carefully check its completeness and read the installation and commissioning tips.
First, the device must be assembled according to the recommendations set out in the instructions for use. Can't wait to check it out in action?
There is no need to rush, as the filter must first be properly secured in an aquarium filled with water. Moreover, beginners, as a rule, have some questions. To what depth should the “glass” be immersed? What is the purpose of the plastic flexible transparent tube?
The vast majority of internal water purifiers are attached to the wall of the aquarium using a vacuum method using special suction cups. These suction cups are included in the delivery set. Mandatory condition: the filter must be completely immersed in water, the height of the water level above the top point of the device must be from 2 to 5 cm.
Transparent flexible tube serves to supply air to the device and is attached to its “spout”. The other end of the tube should be outside the aquarium, in the open air.
It would seem that we can already put the “glass” into operation. However, experts recommend making the first switch by removing all living creatures from the aquarium. You never know! What if the device has a manufacturing defect? It’s better not to risk it and move to a short time all fish into a small settling tank. If the first start showed normal work technical device, pets can be immediately released into their aquatic home.
After first switching on, it is recommended to set the power regulator, which is located on each filter, to the middle position. You need to observe the condition of your pets for some time and then experimentally establish the optimal power of the filtering device.
Features of installing an external filter
An external aquarium filter, which is often called a “canister”, is usually installed in a cabinet under the aquarium, much lower than the aquarium water level. After preparing for work, according to the instructions, the release and retraction hoses, which are connected to the device, are lowered into the “can.” Switching on is in progress.
Everything is very simple, but it seems so only at first glance. If we consider only the aesthetic factor, then this installation method is absolutely correct. Many owners of ornamental fish attach hoses through specially prepared holes in the bottom of the aquarium.
However, we need to look at the problem from the other side.
Depending on the model of the “canister”, its pump can lift water to a height of up to 3 meters. And this, in turn, promises high power consumption and increased energy costs. This is why many aquarists install their “canisters” either at the back or side of the aquarium at a height approximately equal to the middle of the water level. There is no need to talk about aesthetics here, but the energy savings are quite significant.
Installation of the bottom filter
Already from the name of this purifier it is clear that it is installed on the bottom of an aquatic fish house. But the choice of this type of filter is resorted to only when there is very little or no decorative bottom aquatic vegetation in the aquarium.
Such a device is a relatively thin plate with internal filter material and many holes through which water flows. Some believe that such a plate with tubes attached to it can simply be placed on the ground and that will be enough. This is a misconception - the bottom cleaner must be installed, and not just placed.
First, you need to remove the soil from the bottom of the aquarium (or from a separate area) and put a plastic frame that will raise the false bottom by 2-3 mm. Only then can you close technical device soil, and then put it into operation.
Not only the purity and high-quality chemical and biological composition of the water, but also the degree of its saturation with air depends on the correct installation of any aquarium filter. In addition, this determines the reliability of the device itself. In any case: before the water purifier is put into operation, you must carefully read the instructions attached to it and strictly follow the rules specified in it.
How to properly install an internal filter in an aquarium, watch the video:
Installing an external filter in an aquarium
All novice aquarists are puzzled by the issue of installing an internal filter in an aquarium. It seems that everything is extremely clear in appearance, but how can you do everything correctly so that nothing happens under any circumstances? Do I need to immerse the filter completely in water or not? Why this transparent tube? And what's the most interesting instructions for filters is not always clear and detailed.
This is why it is called an internal filter because it is located directly inside the aquarium itself. The external filter is bulky and is located outside the aquarium. Installing an external filter in an aquarium is not a very complicated process.
The internal filter is positioned in the water so that there is still 3 cm of water above its level. This device is attached to the wall of the aquarium using suction cups that are included in the filter kit. Also included in the kit is a small hose, it is necessary for air supply, which is why one end of it is attached to the hole on the filter spout, and the second goes out, it is possible to attach it to the upper edge of the aquarium wall using a special fastener. The main thing is that the air intake is carried out above the level of the aquarium water.
As a rule, on the spout of the internal filter, and some at the tip of the air hose, there is a regulator for air supply, which can first be set to the middle position. During further operation it will need to be adjusted as necessary. Some of the aquarium fish love the rather strong current that is created by the filter, and some cannot stand it at all.
After the filter is installed and all its parts are connected, you can connect it to the network. Further, all manipulations in the aquarium will need to be carried out only while the filter is turned off, since the device is not insured against breakdowns, and this can lead to electric shock.
When the filter is set to low water flow, there may be no bubbles. If you can see the turbulent water surface in the aquarium, then the filter is working well. The water is saturated with oxygen from the surface due to waves.
How to install an external filter? The external filter is located outside the aquarium. It does not clutter up the useful space of the reservoir, and does not bring resonance to the liveliness and naturalness of the underwater landscape with unnecessary devices and details. Therefore, developers can create the most complex and super-efficient filtration system that is not limited by volume.
How to install and use aquarium filters
The aquarium filter performs a cleaning function, removing chemical and mechanical impurities from the water. For it to function correctly, it must be placed correctly in the tank. The life of all the inhabitants of the aquarium depends on its work.
How to install internal filters?
Internal filters are installed inside the aquarium. The most popular are internal pump filters and airlift filters. They are inexpensive, easy to install yourself, and convenient to use during operation. However, these mechanisms have their drawbacks - they need to be cleaned of dirt almost every day, they are large and noisy. Before purchasing such a water purifier, determine whether it will fit in your aquarium.
Will I be able to install the internal filter correctly the first time? Quite if you read the instructions carefully. The device must be placed in the tank when it is half filled with water, when there are plants planted in the ground. Before connecting the filter to the network, it should be assembled in parts and secured to the wall or above the aquarium.
Water purification devices such as internal filters must be completely immersed in aquatic environment. There should be another 3 cm of water above the filter. The apparatus itself should not touch the bottom. If you bought an internal filter, or made it yourself, then it is correct to attach it to the glass wall using suction cups.
Watch how to disassemble, assemble and install the internal filter.
Included with the branded filters is a hose for air supply. IN homemade device it must also be present, however, the principle of fastening is the same. Take one end of the tube and attach it to the special hole in the filter, bring the other end above the water and secure it with fastening material to the upper edge of the tank wall. The tube must be above the water level, otherwise air will not be sucked in correctly.
There should be an air supply regulator on the tube or directly on the filter. Its location affects the strength of the water flow in the aquarium. After installing the water purification device, set the regulator correctly to the middle position. Then watch the behavior of the fish - some will love the flow of water, other fish will avoid it. Adjust the water flow level to make the fish comfortable.
Internal cleaners should be installed after they are completely immersed in water. Before removing it from the water for cleaning, the device must be disconnected from the power supply. Also, you should not leave the mechanism turned off in the water, and turn it on after a long period of stagnation (if it has not been cleaned yet).
How to install external filters?
External filters are more bulky and more expensive. Despite the financial costs, these types of water purifiers have many advantages. The most important thing is the fillers, which consist of filter materials. They need to be replaced periodically, which is quite easy to do.
See how to clean and replace the media in the external filter.
External purifiers are not very noisy, they are suitable for spacious aquariums with volumes of 100 liters or more, and they provide a biological method of water purification. Such a device may contain several fillers: stones, sponge, rings, etc. That's why experienced craftsmen If you have the skills, make external filters with your own hands. Principle of operation external system cleaning the reservoir: aquarium water gradually passes through a special container containing a filler made of filter materials. Then the purified water flows back through the tube into the tank.
Cleaning such a device will not be difficult. The cleaning process must take place in the aquarium water itself, which must be drained into a separate container. Next, the filter material is gradually replaced. For example, a sponge cannot be replaced completely, but only part of it. Cut off half of the old sponge and place a new one in its place. After a few days, beneficial bacteria will multiply in it, and the biological environment will not be disturbed.
To install an external water purification device correctly, you need to read the instructions. If it is homemade, then first you need to assemble it by placing all the fillers with sponges in their cells. You also need to turn off both taps where the tubes are connected.
The device can function properly if it is installed below the water level (20 cm). There are 2 tubes going to the external filter, which take in water and release it. They need to be secured to opposite corners of the tank. When all parts are connected to the fully assembled device, it will need to be filled with aquarium water using gravity. Otherwise, the air from the tubes will not allow the device to function properly.
To release air pockets, you need to connect and open the hose that takes in water. Wait for the filter to fill with water. Do not allow water to leak from the second tube hole. After filling the device, close the inlet hose.
After this, you need to connect the hose that releases the water. To do this, close its valve and water will flow into the hose. Only after these procedures can you connect it to the water intake system from the tank. Later, you can open two taps and connect the external filter to the power supply. Only if all safety and operating rules are followed, the mechanism will work as it should. Never turn on the device if you notice mechanical damage on it. Be careful when working with aquarium equipment to ensure a comfortable life for fish and plants.
Starting an aquarium from A to Z
There are a huge number of articles on the Internet dedicated to starting an aquarium. On our website there are also similar articles telling about installing an aquarium, about the launch of a large aquarium, about starting an aquarium as a beginner, and about the first month of the aquarium's life. These materials are certainly useful, however, they are narrowly focused. In this connection, there is a need to write full-scale material that would serve as instructions and guidance for action for beginners.
Let's first determine the goals and objectives, the stages of starting an aquarium, as well as the equipment base and aquarium chemistry that will be needed.
The main goal is to show the novice aquarist that “the aquarium devil is not scary, as he is painted”! Additional, but no less important goals:
Show that a beautiful aquarium with plants is “too tough” for everyone! That it is not difficult to create and maintain.
Give step-by-step instructions.
Teach a beginner to “see his aquarium” and develop an unconventional way of thinking about aquariums.
Create a beautiful aquarium herbalist.
Show the dynamics of the development of the aquarium: one month, three months, six months.
When arranging an aquarium, use the maximum possible palette of aquarium plants, which will make it possible to see the development of an individual plant and its reaction to a particular action.
Despite the abundance of plants that will be used, show the basics of aquascape - the basics of hardscape, the rules for using driftwood and stones when building an aquarium composition.
Show the procedure, the basics of caring for an aquarium, and also give practical training on the use of aquarium preparations when starting up and further life of an aquarium with live plants.
Coverage of related issues, nuances and tricks.
Equipment that will be used in the review
Aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L;
External filter Tetra EX 600 Plus;
Aquarium cabinet Tetra AquaArt 60l;
Aquarium chemistry:
Tetra SafeStart, Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra EasyBalance
Tetra Bactozym
Tetra range of fertilizers for aquarium plants
+Tetra Balance Balls
Aquarium installation:
- choosing a location for the aquarium;
Installation and installation of an aquarium cabinet;
Starting an aquarium:
Laying the aquarium substrate and soil;
Basics of hardscape (arrangement of stones and snags);
Planting (aquascape basics);
Use of starting chemistry;
Features of keeping an aquarium with plants: nuances and tricks;
Caring for the aquarium after launch:
Correct setting of biological balance;
Aquarium care in the first month;
Use of plant fertilizers;
Aquarium lighting (daylight mode);
Temperature conditions for the aquarium;
AQUARIUM INSTALLATION
This stage is quite simple and understandable, however, a number of beginners make fatal mistakes at the very early stage of creating an aquarium world.
Below, let's look at the rules for installing an aquarium:
The aquarium is installed in an area where there is no direct sunlight;
The aquarium is installed away from passages and doors. The best place- This is a corner of the room or a niche.
The aquarium should not be placed on unstable surfaces.
The aquarium must not be installed near batteries central heating, near other heating devices, in close proximity to household appliances, as well as on the windowsill.
The aquarium is installed taking into account the convenient placement of power outlets.
The aquarium looks aesthetically pleasing and comfortable on a specialized aquarium stand.
Educational film about starting an aquarium for beginners
And so we chose the place. We proceed to the actual installation of the aquarium. In this review we used an aquarium stand Tetra AquaArt 60l. white. This cabinet was delivered in durable, branded packaging and despite the fact that it was delivered by a transport company from Moscow, all its components, including the glass door, were safe and sound. The cabinet itself is standard, with two shelves and a specially designed rear wall for convenient supply of aquarium equipment. The cabinet is easy to assemble. The kit includes a full set of accessories. And what was especially pleasing: the kit included the necessary furniture key. Probably, many of our readers have encountered the problem of lack of keys when purchasing furniture; this forced them to run around hardware stores in search of the required hex key. In this case, there was no such problem; the cabinet was assembled in 20 minutes.
The next step is to install the tube in the chosen location.
IMPORTANT!!! Any tube, any surface on which the aquarium will stand must be leveled using a building level. The larger the aquarium, the more carefully you need to approach this issue. Any deviation of the aquarium from the horizontal is fraught with uneven load on one or another wall of the aquarium.
It should also be noted that the aquarium tube should not be installed close to the walls. It is necessary to maintain indentations for convenient supply of cords and hoses to the aquarium.
Installation of an aquarium. In this review we will install an aquarium complex. This complex includes all the necessary equipment that is needed to start an aquarium:
- aquarium tray;
- convenient aquarium lid;
- lighting + reflector;
Internal mounted filter;
Heater;
The aquarium itself is 60 liters. net volume;
And also two bottles of starting chemicals (TetraAquaSafe, EasyBalance) + TetraMin food.
Of course, all these components can be purchased separately. In this case, Tetra relieves the beginner from difficult choice aquarium equipment - everything is ready to start!
Procedure for installing an aquarium:
The aquarium needs to be unpacked. Remove the cover. Remove all components of the complex.
Check the walls and edges of the aquarium for cracks and chips that could have occurred during transportation of the aquarium from the store to home.
Next, if necessary, you need to paste the background. If film is used as a background, the easiest way to attach it is to secure it with transparent tape to the outer back wall of the aquarium. Please note that the film must be attached to a dry surface. The film is secured with tape on all sides! This will save you from distortion of the background image caused by moisture getting between the glass and the background. For more information, see the article - how to glue an aquarium background?
We install the aquarium on the cabinet. The bottom of the aquarium should be completely on the surface of the cabinet. Then we check again building level Is the aquarium level?
LAUNCHING THE AQUARIUM
After the preparatory activities, the most enjoyable stage begins - launching the aquarium.
Laying the aquarium substrate and soil.
A novice aquarist needs to take the issue of laying the substrate and soil very seriously. After all, they play a vital role in the life of plants and the aquarium as a whole. The aquarium bottom substrate is both a source of nutrition for plants and a natural biological filter in which colonies of beneficial nitrifying bacteria settle.
The question of choosing a substrate and primer is specific, individual and depends on many factors. It is impossible to give a clear recommendation. Each aquarist, based on his own needs, must personally determine for himself what kind of substrate and what kind of soil he will need in a particular case. Below, we will try to highlight those aspects that a beginner should definitely pay attention to:
1. It is necessary to distinguish the substrate for the aquarium from the aquarium soil. The substrate is a nutrient substrate that contains the necessary nutritional elements that the plant absorbs through the root system. Soil is a substrate that may also contain useful elements, but its main function is to cover the bottom of the aquarium.
2. The nutrient substrate is used only under the root system of aquarium plants. It should not be laid on the entire surface of the aquarium bottom, if the plants, say, will only be located in the corner, in which case, the substrate is laid only in the corner. Or, for example, if you have a small number of plants, 5-10 pieces, you can and even need to do without a substrate.
You can often see the following dialogue on aquarium forums:
« Newbie: I used such and such a substrate and planted 5 plants.
Forum member's answer: I hope you have an algae outbreak and greening of the aquarium. Since the substrate will emit a lot of radiation in the first month.”
What does it mean? All aquarium substrates are a nutrient substrate, in simple terms it is “soil, black soil”. The compositions of the substrates are different and the concentration of fertilizers in them is different.
From the above, we can conclude that before you buy a substrate, you need to clearly understand what exactly will be in your aquarium. If you put a substrate in an aquarium and do not plant the aquarium with a sufficient number of plants, then the substrate will “fog”, that is, it will release nutrients into the empty one, which will cause an outbreak of algae - the lowest of the aquarium world.
3. If a small number of plants will be used in the design of the aquarium, you can feed them through the root system without a substrate. For example, placing tablets under the roots of plants Tetra PlantaStart And . This will be quite enough for plants.
4. The soil for aquarium plants must be light, porous, and it must be checked for “hissing”. For more details, see the article - soil and nutrient substrate for aquarium plants.
In this article we will use a substrate. In our opinion, this substrate is optimal for a beginner aquarist. It is balanced, contains all the necessary world elements and at the same time will protect the beginner from excessive concentration of fertilizers in the aquarium.
In addition, this substrate from Tetra, unlike others, can always be found in any city, in any pet store.
So, open the bucket, pour out the substrate and, using a ruler or construction spatula, distribute it evenly along the bottom of the aquarium. Please note: if the substrate is distributed over the entire area of the aquarium, you should try to distribute it so that at the front wall of the aquarium the thickness of the substrate is minimal (1-2 cm), and at the back wall of the aquarium, on the contrary, it is greater. This is done, firstly, in order to visually add volume to the aquarium, and, secondly, as a rule, plants are not planted in the foreground (with the exception of ground cover plants).
After the substrate has been laid, you can additionally make a layer of preparations that will “strengthen” it and/or make the aquarium substrate more “attractive” for colonies of nitrifying bacteria:
Crush a few tablets Tetra PlantaStart and scatter them evenly along the bottom, reinforcing the substrate;
- distribute the granules Tetra InitialSticks;
Apply granules Tetra Nitrate Minus Pearls;
Scatter required amount capsules Tetra Bactozym.
You can even use crumbs tourmaline.
At the same time, we draw the reader’s attention to the individuality of each aquarium. All of the above drugs can be used both together and separately.
For example, when starting the aquarium in this review, we did not use Tetra NitrateMinus Pearl because in the future we will use the new Tetra Balance Balls. We also took into account the fact that nitrate (NO3), although they are poison and the last link in the nitrogen cycle chain, at the same time NO3 is an important macro-fertilizer for plants. We also did not use Tetra InitialSticks, this was done intentionally, firstly, in order to protect ourselves from possible excessive concentration of fertilizers in the first month, and secondly, it was decided to use Tetra PlantaStart and Tetra Crypto to feed the plants, through root system and, thirdly, we will use liquid fertilizers, Tetra Planta Pro Macro, and . In this way and with such actions, we push the herbalist’s care of our aquarium to a more complex, but at the same time more “advanced” level - transferring it “to manual mode”, when we ourselves, based on the behavior of the aquarium, will adjust: increase or decrease the concentration one or another fertilizer.
Before laying the soil, we only scattered Tetra Bactozym capsules. Detailed description You can read this drug by following the link given above. Here we will briefly say that Tetra Bactozyme is a drug that promotes the rapid growth of beneficial nitrifying bacteria; the drug creates an invisible film on which the bacteria “populate” and feed on it. By scattering Tetra Bactozyme capsules onto the substrate, we politely invite beneficial bacteria to quickly settle in the soil.
We proceed to the next stage - laying the soil. It is carried out according to the same rules as for the substrate (the thickness of the front wall is less). Let us just pay attention to the fact that not every soil is suitable for plants!!! Soil for aquarium plants must meet the following criteria:
1. It should be light - this will contribute to the good development of the plant root system.
2. Must be sloping - this will negate possible education oxygen-free zones and eliminates the likelihood of soil and substrate acidification.
3. Must be porous - this will contribute to the development of a larger population of beneficial bacteria in the soil.
4. The soil should not “hiss.”
The soil meets all of the above requirements. This soil is a new product in the Tetra line of products and preparations for aquarium plants. That is why we will use it and test it in practice.
The basics of hardscape are the arrangement of stones and driftwood.
Harscape is the skeleton of aquarium design, manipulation of decorative elements until the aquarium is filled with water. For more details, see the article - Hardscape in aquarium design.
Any aquarium is a corner of wildlife, a microcosm that lives according to the laws and rules of Mother Nature. The harmony of the world is embodied in everything that we see in every bush and every branch. An aquarist must learn to see beauty and borrow its rules and laws from nature.
There are wonderful articles on our website that will help you take your first steps into the world of harmony; we strongly recommend that you read them:
AQUARIUM DESIGN, ORDER IN CHAOS!
STONE HARSCAPE
TAKASHI AMANO: PHOTO, CONCEPT, BIOGRAPHY
In this review, we used diabase as stones, and also used intricate driftwood as the main design element and surface for growing mosses.
The reader should pay attention to the fact that stones, just like the soil, should be checked for “hissing” - they should not increase the hardness of the water. Diabase is a volcanic rock and in different areas the chemical composition of this stone is different - some diabase “sizzles”, others do not. Be sure to try to check the “stone decor” with vinegar for hissing. “Sizzling” stones and “sizzling” soil can only be used in aquariums where there are no plants and for fish that like hard water, such as most African cichlids.
The issue of using driftwood also has its own nuances! They are described in detail in our form thread - Driftwood in an aquarium: how to prepare, soak, boil, dry, disinfect.
Here we note that you should not use the first log you come across in the aquarium. Take a closer look, choose a piece of driftwood, think about how it will look in the aquarium, how it will fit together in the overall aquarium composition.
Also, before implementing a design idea, we recommend that you make sketches of what you want (at least schematically) - this will greatly facilitate the implementation of the idea.
Planting plants in an aquarium.
In this review, we deliberately used an incredible number of different plants:
Salzman's Hediotis;
Blixa japonica;
Hemianthus micranthemoides;
Hemianthus monte carlo;
Marsilia;
Cryptocoryne parva;
Rotala indica;
Rotala Myanmar;
Bacopa carolina;
Ludwigia ovalis;
Ludwigia vulgaris, palustris;
Alternatera colorata ed;
Aponogeton viviparous;
Eleocharis vivipara;
Proserpinaka;
Hygrophila balsamica;
Pogostemon erectus;
Moss Phoenix;
Flamemoss;
Queen moss/S.P.;
Willow moss;
Java moss and others.
Such an abundance of plants justifies the use of a substrate and will allow us to show the reader that growing any plant, even the most whimsical one, is not such a difficult task. In the future, the list and number of plants will be adjusted.
Below are the general rules for planting:
The photo shows the rules for planting aquarium plants
1. Low-growing (ground cover) plants are planted in the foreground, long-stemmed plants in the background.
2. Before planting, the plants are processed, rotten leaves are removed, the roots are trimmed, leaving 2-3 cm.
3. Ground cover plants And low growing plants They are planted in wet soil (a little water is poured in), then the aquarium is filled again, and the plants in the middle and background are planted.
4. If a large number of plants are being planted (which can take a long time), you can use a spray bottle to periodically spray the already planted plants.
5. Large plants can be planted into the hole with your hands, ground cover with tweezers.
6. Plants with red pigment are placed in the most illuminated areas.
7. Mosses are tied to stones and snags with fishing line or thread.
After planting, we applied the required amount of Tetra PlantaStart under the roots of the plants with tweezers - the tablets promote the rooting and adaptation of the newly planted plant. Please note that these tablets can be divided into quarters and applied depending on the size of the bush.
Upon completion of planting, the aquarium was completely filled with water.
In conclusion of this section, it should be said that a novice aquarist should not be afraid of the suspension that can form in the aquarium in the first days. A slight cloudiness of the aquarium can be caused by dust from the soil (mechanical turbidity). Such dust will be filtered out within 3-7 days. Also, for the first time in the life of the aquarium, “biological turbidity” may form - the whiteness of the water; this turbidity is also not terrible and, on the contrary, tells the aquarist that biological processes have begun to actively work in the aquarium. This kind of dregs will also disappear in 3-7 days. For more details, see the article - Cloudy aquarium.
Sometimes, in the first month, whitish mucus may form on a piece of driftwood that has been drowned in an aquarium - this is organic matter, which is also not a terrible phenomenon, but it indicates that the piece of driftwood was not fully processed. Such mucus will disappear soon, but it can still be removed mechanically or, for example, by getting catfish Ancistrus, which will clean off this mucus.
Also, a novice aquarist should not worry that in an aquarium filled with water it will not be possible to add plants or change their location. In the future, you can make adjustments without much difficulty.
Additional materials for this section:
Aquarium Plants for Beginners
Aquarium herbalist
Using starting chemistry when starting an aquarium.
After the aquarium was filled with water, we introduced three basic starting preparations:
Tetra AquaSafe- binds heavy metals, completely neutralizes chlorine and creates environment, as close as possible to natural conditions fish habitat. Colloidal silver solution protects the mucous membranes of fish, and magnesium and vitamin B1 reduce the stress effect.
Tetra SafeStart- contains specially grown live nitrifying bacteria that reliably reduce the levels of toxic ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium.
Tetra EasyBalance- stabilizes pH and carbonate hardness (KH) of water, removes phosphorus, supplements with various vitamins, microelements and minerals, reduces the number of water changes. Provides a healthy habitat for your plants and fish in a freshwater aquarium.
These preparations are extremely necessary for maintaining the aquarium, especially in the first month. Their use is actually the key to success and absence of problems after launch. All these drugs have different directions, but together they most effectively adjust the biological balance in the aquarium.
Features of keeping an aquarium with plants, nuances and tricks.
So, we launched the aquarium! With every hour, every day, the aquarium begins to “ripen” - it begins new life! Millions of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa) begin to develop, plants begin to adapt, filtration and aeration of the aquarium are carried out, photons of light begin to nourish the plants, which in turn, during the process of photosynthesis, begin to release oxygen - this amazing world you created! And as a creator, you must understand that this world must develop, there must not be stagnation in it.
Below we will share “easy tricks” that you should learn and put into practice.
Since we have created an aquarium herbalist, we must clearly understand the components that are necessary for a comfortable life in an aquarium garden, here they are:
PROPER LIGHTING
FERTILIZERS
(CO2, micro and macro fertilizers)
CORRECT CARE
(correctly configured filtration, aeration)
PROPER LIGHTING
The issue of lighting an aquarium with live aquarium plants is important and extensive. Lighting is the key to good plant growth! It is important to understand this fact.
Our articles will help you understand all the intricacies of lighting for plants:
Aquarium lighting and lamp selection
DIY aquarium lighting
Reflectors in an aquarium
Undoubtedly, this material For a beginner it will be difficult at first. But you just have to figure it out once and everything will fall into place.
It is worth noting that in fact, the issue with lighting is not a problem, it is only important to understand “what and how much” is needed specifically for your herbalist. And after that, you just need to purchase and install the selected option for additional lighting - this can be additional fluorescent lamps connected through ballast or electronic starter, it could be LED strip or LED panel, it could also be a MG LED spotlight.
In this review, we took into account the conditions of keeping our plants, calculated the required number of lumens and supplemented the standard aquarium refreshment. The issue was resolved in one day!
Be sure to study this issue, the above articles will help you with this.
FERTILIZERS FOR HERBALIST
In addition to lighting, plants need a complex of fertilizers, which they consume during photosynthesis. All fertilizers for aquarium plants can be divided into MACRO fertilizers, MICRO fertilizers and separately release CO2 (carbon dioxide).
All these fertilizers are presented in Tetra line.
Carbon dioxide is an important fertilizer for plants. The aquarist should first of all think about its sufficient quantity. This is due to the fact that micro and macro fertilizers, in one quantity or another, will always be present in the water even if they are not specifically added - they are in tap water, they are formed as a result of the vital activity of fish. But CO2, alas, will always be in short supply.
Enrichment of aquarium water with carbon dioxide is carried out in various ways:
MECHANICAL;
CHEMICAL;
FERMENTATION UNITS;
For more details, see the articles: CO2 for the aquarium, CO2 pros and cons.
In this review, we used a fermentation unit and Tetra CO2 Plus in our aquarium. And the point here is this: Tetra CO2 Plus, when added to aquarium water, breaks down into O2 (oxygen) and CO2 (carbon dioxide) in a form that is digestible for plants. There are no analogues of this drug, it is not pentandial - an algaecide, more aimed at combating algae rather than feeding plants with CO2. This is not poison: an overdose, which can cause the death of aquatic organisms.
At the same time, supplying CO2 through the mash does not always give the desired result - over time, the intensity of carbon dioxide in the mash fades. In order to compensate for this uneven CO2 supply, we will add Tetra CO2 Plus based on the drop checker readings.
MICRO and MACRO fertilizers for the aquarium.
When growing the herbalist in our review, the following fertilizers were used:
Tetra PlanaMin
Tetra Planta Pro Macro
The PlantaPro series was developed by Tetra for professional plant care. If you are an amateur herbalist, then one Tera PlantaMin will be enough.
In the matter of micro and macro fertilizers, you should pay attention to the fact that their dosage is purely individual. The proportions for applying these fertilizers are not indicated by the manufacturer and will not be indicated by us either, because they are calculated for each herbalist aquarium individually, based on its volume and size, lighting power, number of plants and parameters of the water itself.
CORRECT CARE
Properly configured filtration in a planted aquarium
As previously mentioned, to the aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L All necessary basic equipment is included. The kit also includes an internal hanging filter, which is quite sufficient for high-quality filtration of aquarium water.
However, in our opinion, the best way External filters are suitable for maintaining a herbalist's aquarium. Firstly, because they do not take up space in the aquarium and do not interfere with the construction of the aquarium composition. Secondly, with the help of an external filter, better filtration of the aquarium is achieved. Thirdly, filtration through external filters is quiet in every sense: the filter itself is silent and the water flow that creates the filter is “quiet” and adjustable.
In our herbalist we used an external filter Tetra EX 600 Plus – the youngest in the Tetra line of external filters. Talking about him quality characteristics, it should be said that this is a good filter, we have no complaints about it. Its equipment is standard. However, it is worth noting three points that were pleasantly pleasing:
1. Tetra EX 600 Plus – the youngest in the Tetra filter line. That is, it has minimal power and the ability to filter aquarium water over a certain period of time (liters/hour). Many manufacturers of external filters produce a series of “junior” filters with a minimum number of internal compartments, due to their compactness (1-2 compartments). In this case, the Tetra EX 600 Plus filter has three compartments, which is very convenient, as it makes it possible to use even more filter media.
2. Despite the fact that Tetra EX 600 Plus is the youngest in the series, it is capable of passing and filtering up to 630 liters per hour. Which is very respectable for similar filters (average value 400-550 l/h).
3. The flute (a nozzle for uniform distribution of water flow from the filter) is made of transparent plastic. This is very important for the herbalist’s aquarium, because... the tube does not interfere with aesthetics.
What else is good about an external filter for a herbalist? It makes it very convenient to regulate the air supply and CO2 supply. When there is no lighting in the aquarium, the filter flute rises above the water level and powerful jets of water create excellent aeration of the aquarium. When the aquarium lighting is turned on, the need for air disappears, the flute falls under the water and the flow of water begins to disperse the CO2 bubbles that rise from the diffuser and distributes them throughout the aquarium. That is, thereby improving the quality of water saturation with carbon dioxide.
If, in addition to all this, you purchase timer sockets and an additional pump for aeration, you can “automate” the aquarium - that is, you will not need to turn the lights on and off, raise and lower the flute yourself. At the appointed time, the light will turn on and off while simultaneously turning on the pump to aerate the aquarium at night.
In conclusion to the question about filtering aquarium water, it should be said that earlier, when starting the aquarium, we did not specifically use any drugs that reduce the concentration of nitrates in the aquarium (Tetra Nitrate Minus Pearls). Precisely because the Tetra EX 600 Plus has three compartments for refills. And just recently, Tetra released New Product Tetra Balance Balls – special filter filler that reduces NO3 concentration.
We simply added a small amount of Tetra Balance Balls into one compartment of the external filter. The issue with excessive concentration of poisons has been resolved! The advantage of using Tetra Balance Balls for an aquarium with plants is that if it is necessary to increase the amount of NO3 (as fertilizer for plants), we can simply remove a certain part of the balls.
Caring for the aquarium after launch
After the aquarium has been launched, the aquarist can exhale a little and enjoy the first results of his work. However, you shouldn’t relax, because the fun begins ahead!
The aquarium is interesting because it is not a static picture of fish in a pond. Our site always encourages people to change their attitude towards this amazing hobby and look at it in a new way. Aquarium science is amazing because it is atypical, there are no stereotypes, taboos, or clear regulations. Each individual aquarium is unique!
In aquarium farming, perhaps, there is only one rule - you need to learn to see and feel your aquarium. There is no need to perceive aquarium problems and failures as a tragedy. As Shakespeare said: “There is no good or bad, there is only what we call it”! You need to perceive everything with curiosity, study materials, study your aquarium world and, of course, first of all, treat everything with love.
Correct setting of biological balance.
We are confident that if you adhere to what is written in this article, you will succeed! Additionally, we recommend that you read the following articles that will help you understand the meaning of biobalance in an aquarium:
Biobalance of the aquarium;
Nitrites and nitrates in the aquarium, forum;
An aquarium with densely planted plants has its own peculiarity! The biological balance in such an aquarium is much better adjusted.
When starting the aquarium, we used starting products - Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra AquaStart, Tetra EasyBalance. The use of these drugs is the key to success and virtually eliminates all the problems associated with the formation of biological balance in the first month after starting the aquarium.
As can be seen from the tables and videos, using these preparations, we actually immediately take control of the nitrogen cycle and the breakdown of ammonia products, and also turn tap water into suitable habitat for aquarium fish.
Caring for an aquarium with plants in the first month.
By general rule, the aquarium in the first month does not require cleaning, changing water and siphoning the aquarium bottom! These rules also apply to an aquarium with plants. But it is worth noting that when keeping an aquarium with plants, you must be prepared to constantly fight algae, or rather, to suppress them. In the first month after starting the aquarium, algae can greatly bother the aquarist. This is due to the fact that the biobalance has not yet been adjusted, the planted plants have not yet become stronger, at the same time, bright and powerful lighting can cause the growth of lower flora.
If green algae appears on the walls and decorations of the aquarium, we do not recommend using any algaecides - anti-algae preparations - in the first month. It’s better to simply clean them off with a sponge, a special scraper or an unnecessary plastic card.
Using plant fertilizers in the first month.
An important component of successfully maintaining a herbalist is the correct application of fertilizers for plants in the right proportions.
In the first month of the aquarium's life, we do not recommend going overboard with fertilizers. Firstly, because when starting the aquarium, a nutrient substrate was laid, and secondly, Tetra PlantaStart and Crupto tablets were used - this will be quite enough for newly planted plants. In the future, taking into account the condition of the aquarium, apply liquid and/or tablet fertilizers, starting with small doses. Watch how the aquarium behaves and then adjust the dosage.
Always remember that plant competitors – algae – can always take advantage of an excess of fertilizers! It is for this reason that in aquariums with lush plants (scapes) frequent and high-quality changes of aquarium water are performed (from ¼ to ½ of the volume per week). By changing the water, we remove excess accumulated fertilizers and level out their accumulation.
Lighting for the aquarium in the first month is based on daylight hours.
Aquarium lighting is an important tool for regulating plant growth and overall biobalance. Excessive lighting leads to the growth of algae, while lack of lighting leads to poor plant health.
After starting the aquarium, we strongly do not recommend immediately applying the generally accepted daylight hours of 10-14 hours a day!!! In the first month, the lighting of the aquarium should be dosed and increase gradually. Let's say in the first week 5 hours, in the second 6 hours, in the third 8 hours and so on until the norm - balance.
Temperature conditions for the aquarium.
You must always remember that aquarium plants, like fish, need a stable temperature. Do not allow sudden changes in temperature.
It should also be taken into account that most aquarium plants do not like high temperatures. The general norm is 24-25 degrees.
OUR FIRST MONTH REPORT
A month has passed since the launch of our aquarium. During this time, we made one full change of aquarium water in 1/3 of the volume, since there was a small outbreak of algae, expressed in the formation of green spots on the front wall of the aquarium. The sponge was used for two light cleanings of the aquarium walls. From the second week we started using Tetra Pro series liquid fertilizers in minimal quantities of 1 ml. three times a week. After a week, the dosage was slightly increased. Fourth week fertilizer dosage ~ 1.5-2.0 ml. Pro every other day + 1\2 doses of Tetra PlantaMin + CO2 Plus.
Plant growth. Naturally, the first to “come to terms” after landing were unpretentious plants. By the second week, obvious growth was noticeable: Ludwigia vulgare, Ludwigia ovalis, Aponogeton, Hygrophila balsamica, Proserpinac. By the fourth week we had to thin out: ludwigia, apnogeton. First harvest;)
More fastidious plants have also become comfortable, but naturally, due to their natural qualities, they do not grow vigorously. Blixa japonica, one of the “harmful plants,” pleases us. Alternatera colorata red is beet-colored and noticeably stretched out.
The mosses are very pleasing; within a month they have shaken off all the dust that formed when starting up the aquarium and fluffed up.
At the moment, the daylight hours are 9 hours, the lighting is powerful, with a reserve, so we additionally placed a little specialized peat in the TetraEX 600 Plus filter compartment, which gave natural shading of the aquarium, a slight decrease in pH and kH.
Finally, we would like to share one thing with you in an interesting way removing nitrites and nitrates from the aquarium - using phytofiltration. Many aquarists create a phytofilter over the aquarium, where they pour expanded clay and plant houseplants. We offer you a “light version” of phytofiltration. The fact is that the aquarium lid, which is included in the complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L- very convenient and has three “windows”.
So, if you are not eager to build the Gardens of Babylon, tinker with lighting, or just want a cichlid! Then you can buy “bamboo”, sold in any large flower shop. In fact, this is not bamboo, but Dracaena Sander - a plant that grows naturally, developing in water. Three or four branches of dracaena placed in an aquarium will draw out poisons: nitrites and nitarts, and look great above it.
Dracaena over the aquarium
Video of our aquarium
Conclusion
We hope that this material was useful for you! As you can see, maintaining an aquarium with plants has its own specifics; the key to the success of maintaining such an aquarium is perseverance, patience, prudence and a burning desire to achieve your goals.
Video material from Tetra
about starting and maintaining an aquarium with live plants
How to install an internal filter in an aquarium:: how long should the filter work in an aquarium:: Equipment and accessories
One of the most peaceful sights for humans is watching fish swim. It calms the nerves and relaxes the body, and most importantly is pleasant for the eyes. But they need not only to be observed, but also to be looked after. In particular, take care of the purity of water.
Instructions
1. Find a filter from a specific manufacturer that is suitable for your aquarium. Thanks to the right choice, you will get rid of further problems with filters.
2. Consult with specialists or sellers, they will help you choose the right filters, tell you how to properly care for the aquarium and its inhabitants, how to clean it, and how to monitor the degree of contamination.
3. Buy an internal filter suitable for your aquarium. Unpack, read the instructions and try to install it in the aquarium according to the instructions. It must be filled with water. Remove all fish from the aquarium so that they do not interfere with the installation of the filter.
4. Immerse the internal filter in water completely, so that the top is covered with water to a depth of about ten to fifteen millimeters.
5. Attach the internal filter to the walls of the aquarium. They usually have Velcro, thanks to which they are attached to the walls of the aquarium. This will help fix it at a certain level and not move in one direction or the other.
6. Install the filter so that the tube to which the hose is attached extends out. This will promote cleaning and give your fish a clean environment in which to live. Waste water exits through this tube and enters through a sponge located at the end of the filter tube.
7. Plug the filter into a power outlet for it to start working. Don't forget about safety precautions when turning it on and checking how it works.
8. Check if the internal filter on your aquarium is working. To do this, you need to bring your hand to the upper outlet, if you feel a stream of water, then the filter is functioning as it should. Take a few minutes to see if it works correctly.
9. Place the fish in the aquarium and see if they are comfortable with the filter. If everything is fine and it works as expected, you can continue to enjoy your pets. The main thing is not to forget to feed them and keep the aquarium clean. A clean environment will help them prolong their life as much as possible and, thereby, please you longer.
filter
Instructions
filter tion (as filter filterfilter
4. Before installation filter
note
When buying an aquarium, do not forget that in addition to the peace it gives you, you will also be caring for its inhabitants and their habitat, that is, the aquarium. Keep it clean regularly.
How to install an aquarium filter:: how to start an aquarium filter:: Equipment and accessories
How to install an aquarium filter
If you decide to install an aquarium at home, then you cannot do without an aquarium filter. You need to pay special attention to its choice, since the quality of water in your underwater kingdom will depend on this device.
Instructions
1. Today there are many types of aquarium filters: internal, external, bottom, aerator filters, as well as filters that produce mechanical filter tion (as filter filter thread, sponge or crumbs are used), chemical filter tion (using activated carbon or zeolite), as well as bio filter tion (the filter uses microorganisms that purify water from harmful impurities).
2. The filter must be selected based on the volume of the aquarium, as well as the functions that it will need to perform. For example, external filters are easy to use, while bottom filters help create more favorable microflora in the aquarium, and they need to be cleaned every two to three years. For small aquariums, the ideal option would be an aerator filter, which combines the functions of cleaning and saturating water with oxygen. In any case, before choosing a particular filter, you should consult with a specialist.
3. Before installing the filter, carefully read the instructions. If you purchased a chemical filter, then you need to fill it with the adsorbent that comes with the kit.
4. Before installation filter prepare the aquarium. Rinse it thoroughly and fill it with water to check if the seams are leaking. Drain the water and place pre-prepared soil on the bottom of the aquarium. If you purchased a bottom filter, you must first install it under the ground. Add about one-third of the water and then plant the plants. If you have chosen an internal filter, then it must be installed at this moment. Attach the filter using special Velcro or a holding bracket, then fill the aquarium with water to the required level. An external filter can be installed after filling the aquarium with water.
5. After filling the aquarium, turn on the filter to check its operation. While the aquarium reaches equilibrium (about two weeks), the filter must be kept on. As soon as you see that the turbidity has disappeared from the water, you can safely populate your underwater world with fish.
How to install a filter in an aquarium:: aquarium installation:: Equipment and accessories
How to install a filter in an aquarium
An aquarium with fish is not only an element of home decor. It has long been proven that observing the behavior of fish swimming there behind glass is calming and relaxing. Thus, the aquarium can act as a stress reliever.
Every aquarium must have filtration, otherwise fish in dirty water will not live long. Filters purify water from inorganic substances and remove dissolved substances from water. organic compounds and other substances circulate water and enrich it with oxygen.
Instructions
1. The process of installing a filter depends on its purpose and type. And based on their location, filters for aquariums are divided into external and internal.
2. Internal filters:
Aerolifts are the simplest devices that lift water in a tube using bubbles created by a compressor. Such filters are almost completely immersed in the aquarium, almost to the very bottom. Airlifts are installed in small aquariums, spawning and rearing for fry.
Glass filters. A plastic “glass” containing a substrate for filtration inside is attached to the electric pump. Such filters often play the role of water aerators.
Multi-section internal filters are like boxes divided into sections. Such filters combine several types of filtration at once. And each section has its own filtering. Such filters are attached to the walls of the aquarium. It's true they have significant drawback- they are large in size.
Bottom aquariums are installed at the bottom of the aquarium. A plate or several connected plates are placed on the bottom and covered with sand. Bottom filters usually play the role of auxiliary filters.
3. External filters come in multi-section and canister types.
Canister filters are installed outside the aquarium and communicate with it through water intake and return hoses. Very roomy. Supports all types of filtering. Some models are equipped with a heater.
Multi-section external filters are very similar to their internal counterparts, only they are installed outside the aquarium.
Video on the topic
Organizing a home aquarium is always associated with the need for installation. It is simply necessary for the normal existence of fish, as it saturates the water with oxygen, improves water circulation, and mechanically purifies the water. But for beginner aquarists this often becomes a problem, and they wonder how to install an aquarium internal filter.
How to properly install an aquarium filter?
The internal filter is called internal because it is completely immersed in water. The water level above it, depending on the depth of the aquarium, should be from five to eight centimeters.
The filter is attached to the wall of the aquarium using special suction cups, which in most cases are included in the kit.
A flexible transparent tube, which is called an air outlet hose and is designed to supply air, is connected to the filter spout at one end, and to the outside of the aquarium at the other. The end of the air vent hose located outside the aquarium should be located above the one that is attached to the filter spout.
In addition, during installation, you should pay attention to the fact that the air supply power can be changed using a special regulator, which is located either at the tip of the air outlet hose or at the filter spout. Place it in the middle position at first. And you can adjust the position you need by looking closely at the fish. There are species of fish that love strong currents, and there are also those that do not tolerate it well. At a low power level of the filter, there may be no bubbles; in this case, a slight ripple of water will indicate its proper operation.
Once the installation of the aquarium filter is completed and all parts are attached, you can connect it to the mains. And for the future, you should remember that any manipulations in the aquarium should be carried out with the filter unplugged from the outlet.
One of the important questions that worries novice aquarists is how to install a filter in an aquarium? This small but important device will make the life of your pets much more comfortable, so you can’t do without it.
Types of filters
Before installing a filter in an aquarium, you need to decide which type of filter you need. They differ mainly in the way the filter is installed in the aquarium - to the outside or interior wall(under the water). Most often used at home compact devices that are mounted inside containers with water. Their power varies depending on the volume of the aquarium. Other types, external or bottom, are used much less frequently, usually with large volumes of water.
The principle of operation is the same for everyone - Pressurized water is forced through the filter material, in which all the dregs are retained. Over time, beneficial bacteria multiply inside and help keep the aquarium clean. In addition, in some filters, special impregnation improves the chemical composition of the water. Another important detail: due to constant mixing of the water in the aquarium, there will always be enough oxygen, and the fish will not constantly stay near the surface.
So, most likely you will be dealing with an internal filter. They are more compact, cheaper and easier to care for. Bottom ones can now be found extremely rarely, and external ones are usually used by professionals.
Filter installation
The aquarium must be pre-filled with water. Filter needed first assemble completely, then immerse in water(not plugged into the network) and attach to the inner wall at a distance of about three centimeters from the surface (as a rule, suction cups are provided in the design). If the depth does not allow this, simply leave as much space at the top as possible. From below the device should not rest on the bottom. Water constantly evaporates, so the distance must be checked regularly.
The end of the transparent tube that takes air from the room must be brought outside. It’s convenient when it has a special mount that helps hold the tube on the glass. If you already have an aeration system installed, then this part may not be used. Only after you have installed the aquarium filter, plug it into a power outlet. The appearance of a flow indicates that you did everything right. The wire should hang freely, going down from the outlet.
At the hole from which purified water flows, there is usually a damper that allows you to regulate the strength and direction of the flow. Observe how the water moves, and if you want to correct something, first disconnect the device from the power supply.
Terms of use
First of all, you need to remember that you can turn off the filter only to clean it of accumulated dirt. Do not leave the device turned off in water, and even more so, you should not turn on the filter after it has been turned off for some time (half a day or longer), because this way you risk poisoning your fish. Before installing such a filter in an aquarium, it must be thoroughly washed, or better yet, the filter material must be replaced.
Before immersing your hands in water, unplug the filter from the outlet. After manipulations (cleaning the aquarium, catching fish, etc.) be sure to turn the filter back on.
The filter can only be connected to the network if it is completely submerged in water. It will quickly break if exposed to air.
To clean the filter, unplug it, turn off any other electrical appliances present, and then remove the appliance from the water.
The main element of aquarium equipment is a filter, which is responsible for mechanical and biological purification of water. Most popular in last years external models are used, which are efficient and equally suitable for aquariums of various sizes. By correctly installing a filter in an aquarium, you can not only keep various demanding tropical fish, but also create optimal conditions for hydrobionts.
The main element of aquarium equipment is a filter, which is responsible for mechanical and biological purification of water. Description of equipment
If in the recent past most filters only performed mechanical cleaning water from suspended matter and other contaminants, today equipment of this type allows you to solve problems with nitrates, nitrites and ammonia, providing optimal living conditions for even the most demanding tropical fish.
The design of the aquarium filter is simple and consists of the following components:
- water pump;
- housing with filter cassettes;
- compartment with sponges and filler for biofiltration;
- taps with tubes for water inlet and outlet.
The operating principle of such equipment is extremely simple. The water pump used creates a vacuum in the suction tube, which is immersed in water. Water is supplied from the nozzle into the filter housing, which passes through the sponges and compartments with biofiltration filler, after which it is directed under pressure into the aquarium through the appropriate hose.
Today, two main types of aquarium filters have gained popularity:
- internal;
- external.
Internal ones also include bottom filter units that can be placed under the ground, which allows you to solve problems with detritus and various contaminants, accumulating in sand and small pebbles at the bottom.
External filters include classic versions with baskets and so-called backpacks, which are intended primarily for small-power aquariums and are mounted on the back wall, providing high-quality mechanical purification of water and its aeration.
Internal filters
Internal filters are distinguished by their simple design, have a low-power water pump and are intended for aquariums with a volume of up to 100 liters. The main purpose of such equipment is to purify aquarium water from suspended matter and other mechanical contaminants. Most models do not even have a compartment for biochemical cleaning; therefore, they are intended for aquariums where water changes are performed on a regular basis.
Internal filters are distinguished by their simple design, have a low-power water pump and are intended for aquariums with a volume of up to 100 liters. This device is located inside the aquarium and is compact in size. The pump used usually has a performance rating of 300-500 liters per hour. Some modifications have a special air valve for simultaneous aeration and dissolution in water of oxygen necessary for fish and other aquatic organisms.
The advantages of internal filters include their minimal energy consumption, efficiency of water purification in a small aquarium, affordable cost and ease of installation. Disadvantages include the lack of biochemical purification, as well as the impossibility of using such devices in large aquariums.
Installing the internal filter is not difficult. It is necessary to decide on the location where the cleaning pump will be located. Typically, internal filters are sold disassembled, so it will need to be assembled in accordance with the instructions, while following some recommendations:
- Attach the filter to the suction cup, positioning it so that the upper part is located approximately 3 centimeters deeper than the surface.
- You can only immerse the pump in water after disconnecting it from the electricity.
- The air intake tube is brought outside and additionally secured so that it does not end up under water.
- Plug the pump into the outlet and check for flow, which indicates that the device has been assembled and installed correctly.
You can regulate the power of the pump, and, consequently, the filtration efficiency using a small damper on the outlet pipe. This adjustment is best done with the power turned off.
Proper pump maintenance
The aquarist will need to not only correctly connect and install the internal filter, but also provide it with proper care. Such equipment maintenance is performed at least once a week.
It is necessary to regularly clean the filter sponge from dirt by rinsing it under running water. You should not turn off the electricity supply at night, as this can lead to the death of the fish. Before putting your hands in the water, be sure to turn off the pump. The filter should only work when completely immersed in water.
If these simple rules of equipment care are followed, it will last for many years, effectively purifying water and without causing any hassle during its operation.
Equipment maintenance should be performed at least once a week. External models
External filters, which appeared several decades ago, have become very popular among aquarists. Thanks to the increased size of the compartment with filter elements, it is possible to provide high-quality mechanical and biological chemical cleaning water. Inside such a filter there is a filler, on the surface of which colonies of nitrifying bacteria settle. They perform biochemical purification, removing nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and other dangerous contaminants from the water that can be harmful to tropical fish.
Today you can find various models of external filters on sale, which differ in filler volume, pump power and a number of other characteristics. Accordingly, based on the performance of the pump and the volume of filler, you should choose a filter for a particular aquarium. By correctly selecting the parameters of such equipment, it will be possible to ensure the maintenance of a stable biosystem in the aquarium, providing tropical fish with optimal conditions for keeping them.
The most popular products on the domestic market are from the following manufacturers:
- Eheim;
- Fluval;
- Sera.
Among the disadvantages of external filters, it is customary to note their high cost, bulkiness and the need to solve problems with equipment noise. The latter will be especially critical if you are choosing equipment for an aquarium that is located in the bedroom not far from the bed. The most silent, reliable and efficient filters are those from the German manufacturer Eheim.
Installing a filter in an aquarium is not particularly difficult; you just need to think about where such equipment will be located. Usually it is placed in a cabinet under the aquarium, for which the holes necessary for laying the hoses are drilled in the back wall of the furniture.
The filter will need to be assembled in full accordance with the instructions. All sponges and a special substrate for biochemical water purification are placed inside the filter. The aquarium has inlet and outlet tubes that must be under water. It is necessary to correctly install the filter in the aquarium, placing such equipment below the bottom level, which will ensure maximum efficiency of the pump.
The filter should be placed on it permanent place, then use a mechanical hand pump to bleed the system, trying to remove as much air as possible from the housing and tubes. A few presses of the hand pump will be enough, after which the water will flow by gravity through the inlet tube, squeezing the air out of the filter. As soon as the housing is completely filled with water, air will stop coming out of the outlet tube. After this, you can connect the equipment to the network and check its efficiency.
The filter will need to be assembled in full accordance with the instructions. If the filter does not start or operates at minimum power, this indicates that the system is aired; accordingly, it will be necessary to remove air from the housing and tubes. To do this, with the filter turned on, press the hand pump button several times, which allows you to expel air from the system.
A small amount of air may remain inside the case, which will gurgle and make noise. To completely get rid of such small bubbles, you should carefully lift the filter and tilt it from side to side.
Having reached its full capacity, the device immediately begins to perform mechanical water purification. But biochemical filtration, when nitrates and nitrites are removed, begins approximately a month after the equipment is launched. During this time, colonies of nitrifying bacteria will settle on the substrate used, which are responsible for the chemical purification of water. That is why, if possible, fish should be stocked, especially demanding tropical species, a few weeks after installing an external filter in the aquarium.
Operation and care
During operation, external filters do not cause any trouble to their owners. The aquarist should only remember that turning off equipment at night is strictly prohibited. If for any reason the electricity in the house is turned off for 12 hours or more, then the nitrifying bacteria on the substrate die, and the aquarium will need to be started again. Such equipment must operate around the clock, which will ensure high-quality cleaning aquarium water.
The aquarist should only remember that turning off equipment at night is strictly prohibited. Caring for the external filter is not difficult. Once a month, you should open the case and wash the sponges to remove any existing dirt. This work is done as quickly as possible and takes 5-10 minutes. After washing the sponges, you will also need to bleed the system from air, for which you use a hand pump that expels unnecessary air from the tubes.
The system is thoroughly flushed approximately once a year. To do this, you should drain 10-15 liters of water from the aquarium into a small basin. The filter is disconnected from the power supply, disassembled, all fillers are washed in a basin of water, after which the cleaning equipment is assembled in the reverse order. This work is usually not difficult and takes 20-30 minutes at most.
Installing an internal or external aquarium filter is quite simple. You just need to decide on the location, be careful during assembly, and connect the device to the network only after the equipment is fully installed. In the future, it will be necessary to properly maintain the equipment, washing it regularly, and avoiding long-term power outages, which subsequently leads to the need to restart the filter and the entire aquarium.