Interior finishing of timber houses with plasterboard sheets. We cover the walls with plasterboard inside a wooden house. Fastening the plasterboard cable in a wooden house.

Today, many people are faced with uneven walls in their homes. This kind of problem is not uncommon, especially when it comes to wooden building. Fortunately, modern manufacturers offer consumers a variety of options to choose from. various materials, with which you can make the floors even and smooth. Such coatings include sheets of plasterboard.

Peculiarities

Currently, drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is due to its flexibility and at an affordable price. Such materials are used for finishing walls in private houses and city apartments, where uneven floors are common.

As a rule, walls in wooden houses have impressive differences in height. Therefore, to design them it is necessary to carry out high-quality alignment.

For this you can use different materials(from cheap plywood to gypsum fiber board panels). Most buyers choose drywall for such work. Installation of such material is quite simple. For all work home handyman It may take a little time. In addition, installation of gypsum board sheets will cost users little. Due to these features, leveling walls with plasterboard panels in wooden house can be called the best option.

Drywall is also distinguished by the fact that it can be finished with a variety of decorative materials. This could be paint coatings, wallpaper, different types plasters, imitation brick and stone masonry. However, it is worth considering that drywall is a fairly fragile material.

In wooden houses, especially if they are built from logs and logs, it is impossible to glue wallpaper or install tiles without first leveling them. Drywall in this case is a real lifeline. It has various modifications. Due to this feature, select suitable coatings Possible for dry, warm, damp rooms (kitchen or bathroom). This doesn't mean that moisture resistant boards are invulnerable and cannot be wetted with water. At the installation stage, it is recommended to additionally coat these materials with protective compounds.

Advantages and disadvantages

Drywall is a durable material that has its strengths and weaknesses.

First, let's look at what advantages such coatings can boast of:

  • First of all, it is necessary to highlight the durability of this finishing material. High quality drywall not subject to rotting or destruction. If you treat this finish with care, it will last for many years without causing any inconvenience.

  • Installation of plasterboard sheets is simple and quick. To do this, it is not at all necessary to contact finishing teams, who often ask a lot of money for their services.
  • This material is lightweight, so working with it is optimally easy. Its installation can be easily accomplished without involving help.
  • GKL sheets High Quality are environmentally friendly and absolutely safe. They can be installed in a wooden house without worrying about the health of the household. As a rule, these coatings do not contain harmful or hazardous substances, so they can be installed even in children's rooms.
  • According to experts, plasterboard sheets can regulate the indoor microclimate.
  • Such coatings do not cause allergic reactions and do not emit unpleasant odors during operation.

  • This coating boasts good thermal insulation characteristics. In conditions wooden house this property especially relevant. With such wall decoration, the rooms will always remain warm and cozy.
  • GCR panels are flexible. Due to this quality, such materials can be used in the design of arched structures. The main thing is to choose a coating that suits the markings.
  • These materials are fireproof. In the event of a fire, drywall will only burn out upper layer, consisting of cardboard. In addition, special fire-resistant panels are available for sale. These advantages are especially relevant in the case of wooden and log buildings, which are fire hazardous.
  • Unsightly communication systems can be hidden behind drywall.
  • GKL panels are pliable canvases that can be easily decorated with decorative finishing. This could be wallpapering or painting them in different ways. paint and varnish coatings, facing with tiles or artificial stone.
  • This material is vapor permeable, that is, it is breathable.

  • Drywall has soundproofing properties, which is especially important for the relaxation of modern people.
  • GCR coatings are inexpensive. A buyer with any budget can afford them.
  • As a result of installing such coatings, the walls acquire perfectly flat and smooth surfaces.

Despite a large number of advantages, drywall also has its disadvantages:

  • The main disadvantage of gypsum board sheets is their fragility. It doesn't take much effort to break this material.
  • It is easily damaged and cannot withstand heavy loads. You need to be especially careful with this material when installation work. In case of damage, it is usually impossible to repair the panels.

  • Although drywall has soundproofing properties, many consumers note that they are very insignificant. For example, this material will not save you from excess noise and creaking in an old house.
  • Drywall does not like to come into contact with water. Even special moisture-resistant materials do not last long in conditions high humidity. Because of this feature, installation of gypsum board panels is not recommended in the bathroom or kitchen.
  • It is not recommended to install plasterboard sheets directly on timber floors. Such walls can change in volume at high humidity, which can lead to damage to the plasterboard panels and their detachment from the base. In any case, you will have to make a frame.

Types of drywall

Currently, there are several types of drywall that can be used to finish wooden walls in a country or village house. Let's take a closer look at the varieties of this material.

GKL

GKL - simple drywall. As a rule, it is used for finishing domestic and office spaces in which humidity and temperature are always at the optimal level. This material is gray in color and marked of blue color. Under no circumstances should a simple gypsum board be installed in the kitchen or bathroom. In such conditions it will quickly fail.

GKLO

GKLO is a fire-resistant plasterboard. It is highly resistant to open flames. This effect is achieved by adding special reinforcing ingredients to the material. This material can be used for wall decoration in production premises, in attics and even in ventilation spaces. GKLO also has a gray color. This material is marked with red paint.

GKLV

To make the material more reliable and durable, it is recommended to coat it various coatings(for example, waterproof paints or primers).

Similar coatings have green color and blue markings.

Drywall can vary in the type of edge. Let's outline their differences:

  • PC– straight edge. Such materials are suitable exclusively for “dry” installation. They do not require laying joints. As a rule, such coatings are installed in several layers.
  • UK– thinned edge. Such materials are covered with reinforcing tape and then puttied.
  • ZK– rounded edge. These types of drywall are used only when using a putty mixture, but without additional reinforcement.
  • PLC– semicircular edge on the front side. This material is not supplemented with reinforcing tape, but is subsequently puttied.
  • PLUCH– semicircular edge, thinned on the front side. Such materials require reinforcement and putty.

Surface preparation

Before you proceed to installing plasterboard sheets on wooden walls, they must be properly prepared. If the house has just been built, you need to wait about six months to start finishing work. During this time, the foundation of the building will settle and the drywall will not crack. However, houses made of laminated veneer lumber shrink slightly and require less time.

  • Before installing gypsum board sheets, the walls must be cleaned and freed from previous coatings, if any.
  • Next, the wooden walls should be treated with a special protective compound.
  • Insulate all cracks present on wooden floors.

  • Sand the logs.
  • At the preparation stage, it is recommended to draw up a drawing of all surfaces that require alignment.

How to sheathe correctly?

You can cover wooden walls with your own hands.

  • Under the supporting guides you need to take a block with dimensions of at least 75x25 mm. For crossbars, parts 50x25 mm are suitable. Please note that the support must correspond to the width of the gypsum board sheets.
  • To make the wooden frame stronger and more reliable, it is recommended to install the crossbars more often. As for the support, it should be in the central part of the panel. The crossbars must be placed at the joints of the sheets. Use plastic dowels for fastening.
  • To cover the walls inside a wooden house, you can use a metal frame. It is more reliable and strong. Metal supports you need to install with the same step and check all the parts with a level. In this case, self-tapping screws should be used for fastening.

  • After installing the lathing, heat-insulating material is laid, followed by a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier film must be attached by overlapping the material on top of each other.
  • Install the frame so that its distance from the ceiling is 3-4 cm, and from the floor - 1 cm.
  • When the ceiling and frame are in timber house will be prepared, you can proceed to the installation of gypsum board sheets.
  • Mark the drywall where the vertical guides will be installed.
  • Trim the top panel and fold it into the cut.
  • Turn the sheet over and then cut the opposite side.

  • Mark a 1 cm indent from the edge.
  • Bevel the end edge at a 45 degree angle.
  • Process it sandpaper.
  • Drywall must be secured to the sheathing with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver.
  • Fasten the sheets overlapping, install fasteners in increments of no more than 20 cm.

After this, you can begin the final finishing of the floors.

The advantages of drywall as structural material truly impossible to overestimate. It would seem that this is an unremarkable material with no decorative properties. And, nevertheless, with its help you can create an interesting and even exclusive interior- like the one in the photo above, for example.

For those who prefer to do everything in their home with their own hands, nothing is impossible. And we will try to help visitors to our site understand not only the basics of working with drywall, but also offer some excellent examples of design for a wooden house.

Wall cladding and insulation

To claim that creating a masterpiece from drywall is easy and simple is to say a lie. Of course, this requires certain knowledge, skills, as well as creativity, without which it is difficult to come up with something interesting. Since the walls of a wooden house will be sheathed, it is worth thinking about how to combine plasterboard sheathing with supporting structures.

So:

  • If construction wood of normal quality was used, the fragments left without veneer are sanded and tinted. It looks very beautiful on the walls, and especially on the ceiling. In the title picture you can see a great example of this design.

  • If your intentions are not to comply with zoning and decorative designs made of plasterboard, but you just need to make the sheathing with insulation, you can always do it yourself. But before starting practical work, you need to stock up on some theoretical knowledge.

Our instructions are designed to help you figure out what's what, but let's start with the simplest option. And this is sheathing with insulation.

Multi-layer structure

Plasterboard sheets can be mounted both on glue and on a frame (see Plasterboard cladding: frame sheathing and adhesive alignment). The first option for cladding a wooden house is definitely not suitable - especially if you need to provide insulation. This means that the ceilings and walls will have to be sheathed.

  • In addition to gypsum board sheets, you will need the materials from which this very sheathing is mounted. These can be bars or aluminum profiles, or both at once. This depends on the curvature of the walls, the insulation option, and the size thermal insulation material.

  • First of all, you must clearly understand what general structure designs. Then it will be easier for you to figure out what and how much you need to purchase, and calculate what the price of the issue will be. The bars are a material that is ideal for installation on wooden walls, but if uncalibrated wood is used in their construction, there will be too many irregularities on the surface that are difficult to level out with the help of pads.

In such a situation it is better to take metallic profile. It is attached to the wall using direct hangers and allows you to bring walls of any curvature into a single plane.

In principle, bars can also be attached to hangers, but this is not very practiced among professionals. More often, timber is still used for cladding straight sections, but in principle there are no semicircular walls in a wooden house.

Material selection criteria

So, we present in the form of a table the types of materials that will be needed for sheathing with insulation:

Type of material Dimensions

Each manufacturer has its own size range. The sheet size can be either 2000*600 mm or 3000*1200 mm. But in most cases, a standard size is used, which is standard not only for domestic, but also for imported material: 2500 * 1200 mm.
  • The main thing here is not the length and width of the sheets, but their thickness, which when covering walls should be no less than 12.5 mm. Plasterboard 9 mm thick is used only for lining ceilings and creating ceiling-wall structures that are purely decorative.

The cross-sectional size of the timber used to install the frame is selected depending on the thickness of the heat-insulating material. The pitch between the belts also depends on the size of the insulation, only in this case, its width plays a role. The cross-section of the bars can be: 30*40 mm; 40*40 mm or 40*50 mm.
  • From these, a sheathing is constructed for insulation, but under the plasterboard, a counter-latten made of 25*40 mm lath is installed, or a profile is already used. This is the same case when both wood and metal profiles are used to construct a substructure.

Since the walls of a wooden house are not airtight, such as brickwork, then, first of all, you have to create a barrier to moisture and drafts. For this purpose, a rolled material called a hydro-windproofing membrane is used.
  • In this multi-layer structure, wind protection will be the first layer. Moreover, it is installed regardless of whether it was produced similar works outside. It can be mounted to the wall with nails or a construction stapler.

After the windproofing is installed, the edges of the canvases, laid with a slight overlap, are glued with special waterproofing tape, which you see in the photo above.

During the installation of the sheathing, in those places where it adjoins perpendicular walls or partitions, it is necessary to place sealing tape. This will also serve as a barrier to drafts.
  • The tape is laid in a groove specially cut in the place where the block adjoins the transverse wall. If you look closely at the diagram above the table, you will immediately understand what was said here.

Both roll and slab materials can be used as insulation for walls. We gave an example of one of the options that has a foil coating. This layer eliminates the need for installation vapor barrier film on top of the insulation. When laying the material into the structure, it should be facing the inside of the room with foil.

Not counting nails and screws, this is a complete set Supplies required directly for plating. But if you take into account that the surface of the drywall will still have to be prepared for finishing, you will also need a primer (see Why a primer is needed: technological nuances of finishing work), putty, and sickle tape, which will be discussed in more detail below.

With their help, the places of fastenings and joints between sheets are sealed, or, if necessary, the surface is puttied over the entire area.

List of tools

The set of tools you need for the job will depend on the degree of complexity of the plasterboard structures. In any case, a roughing and edging plane is needed to cut and smooth the edges; drywall knife; wide and narrow spatulas. To cut holes, for example, for a socket, you need a special hacksaw or a round attachment for a drill, which is called a “crown.”

If you want to independently plan the space of your home using plasterboard partitions, make some interesting niche or install suspended ceiling, then to work with metal profiles you will also need special tools: metal scissors and a cutter. Along with general construction tools, it’s also a good idea to have a circular saw.

Features of installation of gypsum boards

The installation of plasterboard sheets should begin after the installation of the substructure is completely completed. Since the first sheathing is intended for installation of insulation and is carried out in accordance with its overall dimensions, then the distance between the elements of the counter-lattice is made such that it is convenient to attach the gypsum board.

So:

  • You should decide in advance how the sheet will be positioned during installation, because its length is twice as wide as its width. Experts often prefer to do this so that the long side fits the height of the wall, because the size of the sheet is often enough to cover it from floor to ceiling. As a last resort, small strips are mounted along the top.

  • Elements of the first and second sheathing are usually mounted perpendicular to each other. In this case, the bars under the insulation are placed horizontally, and the slats on which the drywall will rest are installed vertically. The spacer sheathing is attached not to the bars that hold the insulation, but to the base base, using long 4.8*130 mm self-tapping screws, which you see below.
  • The step between the slats should be no more than 60 cm, which allows the sheet to be secured across the width in at least three places. The length of the fastening is made more often - every 22-25 cm along each support belt. Where cutting fragments have to be inserted, transverse belts are also installed so that fastenings can be made along the entire perimeter.

  • It must be borne in mind that in order to avoid the appearance of cracks on the lined surface, the fastening of adjacent sheets is carried out with a slight offset. Also, when making fastenings, it is very important not to overdo it when screwing in the self-tapping screw.

This must be done without force, so that its head does not go deep into the thickness of the sheet, thereby tearing the cardboard shell. If everything happened exactly like this, you should unscrew the fasteners and, stepping back a couple of centimeters, make a new fastening.

Preparing the coated surface for finishing

Properly covering the walls with plasterboard is only half the battle. We still need to prepare its surface for further finishing, and, of course, come up with an acceptable design option.

The first step will be to seal the joints of the sheets and the points of their attachment to the sheathing. To do this, you need a putty mixture specifically designed for gypsum boards.

  • As for the reinforcing tape, its quality also determines appearance cladding, and seam strength. Many craftsmen do not favor fiberglass tape, and claim that the paper version is much more reliable. If anything, it shapes better internal corners. For guard external corners a regular plaster profile made of aluminum with perforation is used.

  • When the work uses putty from the same manufacturer as the drywall, this ensures maximum adhesion of the materials and you can do without priming the seams. Note that the opinions of experts on this matter are divided. Many of them believe that priming is necessary in any case.
  • In most cases, a solid sheet has already prepared edges. To ensure the same preparation when cutting it into separate fragments, use special tool. First, a roughing plane is used, which levels and smoothes the end of the gypsum board, and then a chamfer with an inclination of 45 degrees is cut with an edge plane.

  • The beveled walls of the groove formed between the two ends of the gypsum board provide space for filling with putty and allow you to create a seam of the proper thickness (see Puttying drywall joints - how to do this). Otherwise, it will turn out thin and very fragile. After putting the mixture into the recesses between the sheets, remove the excess with a spatula, and then, without waiting for the putty to set, glue the seam with sickle, pressing it well into the seam.
  • The heads of the screws also need to be sealed, and if the working blade of the spatula clings to the screw, then it is not screwed in properly. For ease of work and elimination of such defects, craftsmen use a spatula with a screwdriver on the handle - it is very convenient and saves time. Second, more thin layer putty mixture, is not applied immediately, but after several hours. More often - the next day.
  • But what to do after it dries depends on the type of finishing that you will do next. If it's a pasting roll materials, putty seams can simply be cleaned and sanded, and the surface of the drywall can be treated with a primer.

  • In any case, if the wallpaper is thick, with a relief or a large pattern, the joints of the plasterboard sheets underneath will not stand out. You just need to take a pigmented primer for the wallpaper, which will disguise the colored surface of the plasterboard. In this regard, we consider it necessary to draw your attention to one very important nuance.

If after some time you need to remove the annoying wallpaper, then it will come off along with the cardboard shell of the sheet. So, if you don’t want to redo the sheathing later, it’s better to immediately putty the entire surface of the drywall. This will make it possible to update the interior as often as you like.

There is nothing to say about preparation for painting. In order for the decorative finish to be of high quality, the surface of the walls and ceilings must be perfectly smooth.

Watch video master classes from professionals and learn to do everything yourself. If you really want, the interior of your home will turn out no worse than the option in the picture above as a sample.

Modern owners of private houses prefer to make repairs, introducing a variety of design solutions. By doing this, we all try to give our home individual features and signs of a certain style.

So modern construction material how plasterboard allows you to realize many design ideas in the arrangement of a private home. Drywall is often used in wooden houses. Using plasterboard you can make a kitchen partition, line the walls in the hallway, or make slopes.

Plasterboard on a wooden ceiling

Drywall allows you to quickly level ceilings and walls. It is important to remember that a wooden house shrinks, which causes cracks to form.

In order to attach drywall to wooden ceiling, you need to create ceiling lathing, which must be attached to the draft ceiling. There is no need to strictly adhere to the perimeter of the wall.

The ceiling grid and plasterboard should fit tightly together. But there is no need to fix it as much as possible, otherwise the condition of the false ceiling will be at risk. The remaining gap can be hidden under a baguette or decorative cornice.

The principle of finishing walls with plasterboard in a wooden house is the same as the principles of any other finishing.

First you need to install metal profiles, which represent the base and guides when laying plasterboard sheets. Self-tapping screws and a screwdriver are needed to install fasteners. They fit perfectly into drywall and can be hidden when filling the seams. It is important to note that drywall is a material exclusively for interior decoration.

Installation of drywall in a wooden house

The work is carried out in several stages:

  1. First attached metal carcass from profile. By using vertical level or a plumb line, the planes are cut off: on the ceiling along the wall you need to draw a straight line. From the line they throw a plumb line at the corners of the ceiling. You can use a level. The line that you drew on the ceiling must be transferred to the floor, that is, projected onto another plane.
  2. Then you need to make a frame. To do this you will need a CD profile and a U-shaped profile. The frame is needed to level the walls. You can use slats or beams in your work, which serve as wooden profiles. Using such profiles, you can create a wooden sheathing that also serves as a frame. This is an inexpensive and environmentally friendly way.

Since the wooden walls of a private house “breathe” with changes in humidity, drywall cannot be firmly attached to the walls, otherwise cracks may appear at the joints.

The basis for installing drywall can be: wooden wall, slats, bars, beams, lathing, frame or wall. If communications are laid in the walls, then the best option would be to mount drywall on wooden slats. This will hide them or provide additional thermal insulation. For this type of installation you will need: self-tapping screws, a screwdriver and dowels, a saw, a drill, and drywall. It is recommended to take slats from soft wood.

Installation process

In the places where you plan to attach the slats, lines should be drawn along the perimeter of the wall. You also need to draw a line for the vertical slats. Vertical slats are supposed to be located at the joints of plasterboard sheets.

The slats are attached to the wall using a drill and dowels. Any gap between the wall and the batten should be filled with small particles of drywall. There are also horizontal spacer slats that are mounted between the vertical slats. The spacer rails are mounted at different heights. This creates a mesh as a base.

After this, the drywall itself is attached. It is best when the edges of the plasterboard sheets fall on the middle of the slats, both vertical and horizontal. The sheets are fixed using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. The screws are screwed in at intervals of 15 cm. The fasteners must be recessed into the self-tapping screw. Then the joints are sealed with reinforcing tape. Gaps larger than 3mm must be filled before applying tape. The last thing is to process the dried putty by sanding or sanding.

Owners of wooden log houses are rightfully proud of their acquisitions (or the results of the construction they have undertaken). The house turns out to be cozy, beautiful and environmentally friendly - full order! But when it comes to interior decoration of a wooden house, and even with their own hands, people sometimes get lost. In some areas of the building it is simply not possible to leave the tree intact. For example, in the kitchen it will quickly become smoky and possibly begin to crack. And the bathroom will begin to swell from moisture, threatening the residents with mold. You just can’t put the same tile on a beam or log: either it won’t stick at all, or very soon it will start to “walk” due to the breath of the tree. And here plasterboard can come to the rescue: in a wooden house it will serve as a load-bearing base for finishing.

Features of internal plasterboard cladding

Leaving aside the issue of utility rooms, let us draw your attention to the advisability of finishing with plasterboard inside a wooden house.


Alignment of walls plasterboard structures Let us mention only in passing - it is for this reason that this material is most often used. When wooden structure, if his owner wishes to leave natural look wood intact, this direction of use of drywall fades into the background.

How to install in a wooden house?

What are the features plasterboard works specifically in a wooden house? All the difficulties overcome are caused by the fact that “living” lumber shrinks and breathes, and if the first process gradually subsides, the second continues throughout the existence of the log house. Several rules follow from this.


Taking into account all these nuances, we can offer 3 options for plasterboard finishing.

Wooden sheathing

It is especially appropriate if drywall is being installed in an old wooden house. Its shrinkage is complete, and the walls are probably not too smooth. But the main thing is that they only breathe and will not change much in size.

  1. A block measuring 75x25 mm is taken under the support posts. More is possible, less is in no case. Naturally, the sheathing is made from lumber treated with fire retardants and antiseptics, followed by drying.
  2. For guides and crossbars, 50x25 mm strips are sufficient.
  3. The support posts are attached in increments of 1.2 meters, that is, the width of the gypsum board sheet. At least one guide is mounted between them. If you want greater structural strength, stuff them more often. The main thing is that the center of the sheet should be support post, and in place of the junction of the plates - a guide.
  4. The crossbars are packed in such an order that they are located at the junction of the narrow sides of the gypsum board. Do not forget that horizontal seams should not line up: drywall is installed in a checkerboard pattern or at least with a noticeable offset.

All slats are leveled. The largest protrusion of the wall is taken as the reference point. In places of depressions, wedges are placed, hewn to required thickness. At interior decoration your home with plasterboard wooden frame the slats are attached to the lumber with screws and a washer at a distance of 20-30 cm. They should not be tightened too much so that the sheathing does not deform during natural movements of the walls.

Metal carcass

It may well be used for similar cladding of log houses. However, for new, not completely settled buildings, it is better to use a movable option.

  1. Vertical racks from the profile are placed according to general rules, with calculated step and level check. However, they are mounted on a rigidly fixed wooden sheathing.
  2. Horizontal cross members are fastened with self-tapping screws through oval grooves in the supporting profile. This will give them the opportunity to rise/fall when the tree moves.

Wall coverings made in this way with plasterboard remain independent from the walls, while possessing sufficient strength even for tiling. This method is somewhat more expensive than mounting on a wooden sheathing, since both it and a metal profile are required. But it gives more reliable results.

But finishing a wooden house with plasterboard from the inside, carried out directly on lumber, frankly speaking, is not the best option. Yes, if the walls are smooth enough, you can glue the sheets directly to the surface. However, they will inevitably be led astray by the wood’s breathing process, and compensation gaps will not save them. Another option - creating a false wall - can only be used in large rooms, since it “eats up” a significant amount of space. In this case, the frame is mounted at some distance from the wall and sheathed with sheets. In fact, this creates solid partition, as in redevelopment.

As the owner of a wooden house, you are well aware of the range of features this type buildings. Helps solve many problems correct cladding walls

The best solution in this situation would be to cover a wooden house with plasterboard.

Using plasterboard sheets (GKL) you can easily cover all the walls of a wooden house. In addition to ease of installation work, drywall in a wooden house will help:

Exterior view of a plasterboard wall

  • level all the walls in the room;
  • create a beautiful decorative finishing rooms;
  • increase the sound insulation of the house;
  • mask irregularities, defects or communications;
  • additionally insulate the room;
  • create a unique and original design.

Thanks to gypsum plasterboard, your home will become warm and cozy.

Necessary calculations

To cover a wall plasterboard sheets, you need to first create a drawing. To create it you need:

  • measure the height of the room;
  • measure the length of all walls in the room;
  • calculate the perimeter of the room.

Scheme

List of necessary tools and materials

Installation of drywall in a wooden house involves the use of the following tools:

  • perforator;
  • drill with drills;
  • construction or laser level;
  • tape measure with pencil;
  • metal scissors;
  • spatula.

Necessary tools

In addition to this, you will need:

  • plasterboard sheets;
  • profile;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • putty;
  • primer.

Note! It is most rational to buy material and profiles from one manufacturer. Today the best manufacturer The German company Knauf is considered on the market.

Preparing for work

You can level the walls in a wooden house using gypsum boards with your own hands only after preliminary preparation. A wooden house has its own characteristics, and therefore preparation for the main work involves:

  • removal of previous decoration from the walls;
  • sealing all possible cracks and holes in a timber house using polyurethane foam;
  • processing wooden beam special solutions that prevent further deterioration of the material and its swelling;

Note! It is better to use deep penetration solutions.

  • removal of all irregularities that may affect the installation of the frame in the future;
  • removing protruding nails, various staples, etc.

Antiseptic treatment

Then you need to ventilate the entire room. Only after all the steps described above can the base of the wooden beam be treated with an antifungal compound to avoid the further development of mold and fungi on the wall.
Next, we apply the drawing to the wall and proceed to the installation itself.

Carrying out installation work

Interior finishing of a wooden house with plasterboard, especially with your own hands, will be easy if you follow certain technological techniques.
First you need to make a metal frame. TO starting wall it must be attached as follows:

  • to create the frame, you can use metal or wooden profiles. A metal frame will help create a more reliable and stable structure that will last much longer;

Note! To make the structure perfectly level, you need to use a construction or laser level.

  • must be secured with self-tapping screws;
  • First you should secure the main guides, and only then make the crossbars. If the wall area is small, then the crossbars do not need to be installed;
  • if in the future you plan to hang cabinets or other heavy furniture elements on the wall, you need to strengthen the structure with a wooden beam;
  • Along with this, you can install a mortgage in the required place from the same wooden beam. By doing this now, in the future it will be possible to easily mount even a heavy kitchen cabinet on the wall.

Ready frame

If you plan to insulate the walls and increase their soundproofing, you should place in the frame special materials, which are best suited for a timber house. Also, after erecting the metal structure, wires should be laid for electrical equipment that will be installed later.
In addition, there is a frameless mounting option. But it is used only if the walls have been previously leveled to perfect condition. In such a situation, in order to secure the gypsum board on a frameless basis, you should use special adhesive solutions for drywall.
When the frame is ready, you can begin installing the plasterboard sheets. You need to attach drywall with your own hands to a wooden or metal frame in a wooden house according to the following scheme:

  • You can immediately mount uncut gypsum boards on the wall. Sheets should be cut only if the sheets are adjusted to the parameters of the walls. If necessary, cut out holes in the pieces for sockets and switches;
  • sheets should be attached so that they fall in the middle frame profile. This way they will “sit” more firmly;
  • We fasten the sheets with long self-tapping screws. The fastening step can be 25-30 cm.

Wall of a wooden house covered with gypsum board

Now the wall is ready for final finishing.

Final finishing

After the last plasterboard sheet has been attached to the frame, you can begin the final processing. It involves the following actions:

  • sealing joints with serpyanka;
  • puttying of all slab joints;
  • priming the working surface;
  • final putty.

Note! It is best when putty alternates with primer. This way you will create a thick one protective layer, which can reliably protect the material from external influences.
This stage is no less important than the installation procedure itself, since the appearance of the walls depends on it. Therefore, you should putty carefully and achieve a perfectly smooth surface, especially if you plan to paint the walls.

Final finishing

After the walls are dry, you can do final finishing. You can glue wallpaper onto drywall, put ceramic tiles or paint.
You can cover the walls with plasterboard in a wooden house yourself beautifully and neatly. The main thing is to follow the technology and follow all the rules and recommendations. This will make your home beautiful, cozy and warm!