Protection of a wooden house from biodestruction. Review of products for treating roof rafters How to treat ceiling beams to prevent rot
What are lags?
Pros and cons of installing logs
Linear dimensions of wooden beams
Calculation of individual log parameters
Tips for installing joists
Among modern materials for arranging flooring, wooden floors occupy one of the leading places. As a rule, they are mounted on logs, which are an element of the supporting structure of the house. Their correct installation directly affects the reliability of the floor surface and its service life.
Beams located longitudinally and transversely on a rough foundation in a room are called joists. Boards are attached to them to form a wooden floor. To make logs, dry, first-class wood is used, which must be tarred, treated with antiseptic and fire retardants, as well as compounds against damage to the material by rodents and insects.
The logs shown in the photo perform the following functions:
- a flat floor surface is created and the load on the foundation is correctly redistributed;
- an air gap is formed between the rough base and the back side of the floor board;
- the space between them can be filled with sound and heat insulating materials, which leads to a decrease in noise pollution and reduces heat loss;
- Thanks to their installation, it is possible to quickly replace a floor covering element that has become unusable.
If the floor joists are calculated and installed correctly, the wooden floor will last for many years.
Pros and cons of installing logs
There are a number of advantages to installing flooring on joists:
- In the space between them, you can lay not only heat-insulating materials, but also wires and pipes of engineering systems.
- The cost of the bars is low, and any home craftsman can install them if desired.
- The supporting structure of them is capable of withstanding a 5-ton load per “square”.
- Often, if it is necessary to restore the floor, it is enough to repair the joists. In this case, there is no need to re-lay the floor covering.
- The load exerted on the building's floor is less than when installing a cement screed, since the structure weighs little.
- Thanks to the use of bars, you can bring the location of the floor plane to any height.
- After the structure is installed, carry out additional work not required.
The installation of flooring products begins immediately.
A floor mounted on joists also has disadvantages:
- The height of the room is reduced by several centimeters.
- Labor-intensive technology for performing work. Structural elements are difficult to mark and install.
Linear dimensions of wooden beams
The width and length of the floor joists are their main parameters, which are taken into account when choosing material for the construction of a wooden frame:
Definition of width. In the process installation work rectangular bars are laid on the edge in order to impart the required rigidity to the wooden structure. At the same time, when making floor logs, the size of the timber should be as follows: the width is 2 times less than the height.
Length Determination. This parameter is directly dependent on the area of the base. True, when choosing floor joists, the size is determined taking into account the technological gaps, since the distance between the beams and the wall should be about 5 centimeters.
Gaps are necessary to prevent significant deformation of the structure in the event of thermal expansion of wood. The maximum length of the log without support, depending on the direction of installation of the floor, should correspond to either the width or length of the room.
Since the thickness of the log for wooden floor directly depends on the size of the spans between the supports, hence there is a direct relationship between the pitch of the logs and the thickness of the beam. This means that the thicker the block, the wider the step.
Calculation of individual log parameters
To calculate floor joists, their main parameters are taken into account. At the same time, you need to remember that they should be located 1.5-2 times higher than the installation height of the flooring - otherwise a hammered nail will not be able to hold the floorboards.
When calculating the lag, then with a 50-millimeter board thickness, the height of the bars should be 100 millimeters (read also: “What thickness of floorboard is suitable for the floor”). If the rough flooring is made of plywood or other sheet materials 20 millimeters thick, you can use lower bars (30-40 millimeters).
Wooden logs must be made from wood coniferous species, while the humidity of the workpieces cannot exceed 20%. The cross-section of the floor joist should be rectangular. To cut them, take boards with a thickness of 50-60 millimeters.
Prepared logs should be laid in increments of 40-70 centimeters across the light flow coming from the windows. If the dimensions of the rooms and the laying pitch are known, it will be easy to calculate the floor joists and the number of required elements. Before installation, wooden blocks should be treated twice with an antiseptic, which can be replaced with hot bitumen.
When choosing the height of the log, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is taken into account. Typically, the materials chosen for insulation are mineral wool, produced in slabs whose thickness is 5 centimeters. The size of the log for a wooden floor should be similar to the height.
When laying thermal insulation in two layers, a 100 mm joist height will be required. The installation step directly depends on the thickness of the material used to lay the subfloor. The thinner the flooring, the more often you need to install logs. For example, if 12 mm plywood is used for the substrate under the finished floor, then the laying step should be about 30 centimeters.
Typically, the subfloor is created from tongue-and-groove boards - spruce, fir or pine. They are not used for finishing flooring because coniferous wood soft - women's heels leave a mark on its surface. A floor made of laminate or other material is installed on top finishing. With a lag pitch of 50 centimeters, the recommended thickness of the boards is at least 35 millimeters.
As a rule, the distance between the bars is calculated taking into account the thickness of the flooring. For example, with such board parameters as 20, 24, 30.50 millimeters, the gap should accordingly be 300, 400, 500, 1000 millimeters.
Lags are made not only from wood. They are also made from reinforced concrete, metal and various polymers. Most high strength differ reinforced concrete products, which are usually used during construction country house. Logs made from other materials are used when repairing floors.
When wooden beams are chosen as the basis for arranging the floor, the logs are secured with self-tapping screws. The size of the fastening elements must be 2 times greater than the thickness of the bars. The advantage of this method is that to adjust the height of the lags, no additional special pads are required.
Begin laying the bars from the opposite walls, retreating 20-30 centimeters from them.
To control the horizontal installation, use a level. A fishing line or nylon thread is pulled between the bars.
Announcement
According to it, the remaining logs are installed.
When making calculations, one should not forget that they reduce the height of the rooms by at least 10 centimeters.
Elements of the subfloor (sheets or boards) must be attached to each of the joists.
Instead of timber with a certain cross-sectional size, you can use boards connected in pairs, which reach the desired diameter.
If there is a concrete base, the logs are attached to it with galvanized metal corners, for fixing which dowels and screws are used. Corners are sometimes replaced with U-shaped devices.
If necessary, to achieve the required length of the lag, wooden blocks are joined together. Under the place where they connect, a reliable support is mounted, which can be, for example, brick pillar. To build it, dig a hole 10 cm deep, fill it with sand and water it on top. A layer of polyethylene is laid on top of the sand cushion and placed on it cement-sand mixture. After this, columns are built from red brick.
How and with what to treat old wooden floor beams?
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Please advise how and with what you can treat the old wooden beams of the existing floor, they are a little rotten in some places to a small depth and in some places you can see holes, like from a shashel.
What is the best way to treat the ends of wooden floor beams?
From wood-boring beetles there is special means. But treating all beams with them is expensive, time-consuming and tedious, and the result is in question. From folk ways It may be advisable to cover it with drying oil or waste oil. The calculation here is that the fat closes the pores in the tree, and the whole shashel suffocates inside in its burrows and passages.
Treat the wood sandpaper and cover with a water-soluble antiseptic. You can inject additional antiseptic into the grooves left by the bugs and seal them with something plastic, such as wax. You can also use bitumen mastic; it protects the wood from moisture and is also an antiseptic.
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The attic arrangement greatly increases living space Houses. In practice, another usable floor appears in the house. But for its full use, it is necessary to strengthen the attic floor, since the loads on the structure increase significantly. First of all, this applies to wooden beams, most often used in the construction of private buildings.
Specifics of wooden floor beams
The popularity of using wooden purlins in attic floors is due to their light weight compared to steel and reinforced concrete counterparts. In addition, wood has low thermal conductivity and low sound permeability. But natural material, unfortunately, has a number of disadvantages that must be taken into account. This:
- lack of resistance to mold, rodents and insects;
- high fire hazard;
- weak strength of beams of small cross-section.
The first two disadvantages can be dealt with by treating wooden beams with antiseptics and fire retardants. The latter problem is solved by using lumber of a larger cross-section or by strengthening the load-bearing elements of the floor.
Attic floor beams carry lower loads compared to similar interfloor structures.
When installing an attic, reinforcement of load-bearing wooden floor elements is required.
How to treat lags? Impregnations and antiseptics
If the measures are not taken, the purlins will begin to sag under increased load and become irrevocably deformed over time. This is in best case scenario, and in the worst case, they will crack and, as a result, break. But don’t despair and think that the much-desired increase in exploitable area will remain only in dreams. Strengthening options attic floors there are enough to choose just one correct solution, based on specific operating conditions.
When reinforcement is needed
It should be noted that it is necessary to strengthen beam structures not only when constructing an attic, but also for other good reasons. Namely, when the load-bearing characteristics of wooden beams decrease due to the poor condition of the wood resulting from:
- incorrect calculations;
- high humidity;
- accidental damage;
- vital activity of insect pests or rodents;
- the appearance of unacceptable deflections;
- cracking;
- periodic exposure to temporary loads unforeseen by the design.
Professionals do not recommend postponing for long restoration work. Failure to resolve the problem in a timely manner can lead to dire consequences and even tragedy. To competently assess upcoming events, it would be wiser to invite a specialist.
Common ways to strengthen wooden beams
The diameter of the logs or cross-section of the timber for the attic and interfloor floors is selected taking into account the loads falling on square meter floor or ceiling area in plan. This takes into account:
- span width;
- pitch of wooden beams.
In the table below you can see the optimal cross-sectional values for logs and lumber.
Strengthening the attic floor is carried out without changing or changing the operating conditions of the beam structure, using standard or non-standard solutions.
The choice depends on the degree of deformation of the wood and the specific requirements for enhancing the strength characteristics of the purlins and the flooring as a whole. The most common options for strengthening beams involve the use of:
- wooden overlays;
- metal plates;
- rod prostheses;
- carbon fiber, also called carbon fiber;
- supports in the form of pillars.
Wooden overlays and metal plates can be installed both in the span of wooden beams and at their joints with the supporting wall. Reinforcing elements are fixed on both sides or bottom and top of the purlin being repaired. In this case, the linings are tightly tightened using bolts passed through the beams. Wooden parts are pre-treated with antifungal compounds and fire retardants. Metal plates are painted or special agents are applied to their surface to prevent the material from rusting. In addition, the wood is separated from the metal by a layer of waterproofing.
To ensure the reliability of the beam structure, it is recommended to install overlays along the entire length of the girder.
End reinforcing elements are mounted in areas supported by walls. In this case, the rotten ends of the beam are cut off and the removed pieces are replaced:
- double wooden overlays with liners installed at the level of the supporting part of the wall, corresponding to the thickness of the reinforced beam;
- end metal prostheses made of channel;
- metal strips with clamps;
- reinforcing bars fastened with channel strapping.
The list can be continued in several more ways, including mobile prostheses, dual systems, etc., but they relate to more complex options strengthening beams. The end reinforcement has its own characteristic feature. It consists of providing temporary support for the beam being repaired using a pillar. After completion of the work it is dismantled.
Rod prostheses are a system consisting of metal clamps applied in several places of the damaged beam, and connecting elements. The latter are made from durable steel profile or several reinforcing bars intertwined with each other according to the “triangle rule”. In this case, the system remains stable, without any spatial movements. The installation option for bar prostheses depends on the degree of required reinforcement of the beam floor.
Carbon fiber reinforcement refers to modern methods strengthening wooden beams. Composite material is not yet widely used, but the technology is undoubtedly an advanced method. Reinforcing reinforcement is placed on the bottom side of the purlin. Next, carbon fiber reinforced plastic is glued in several layers onto a partially reinforced beam, forming a trough-shaped clamp. The lightness of carbon fiber, ease of use and the absence of unesthetic overlays in the design are the undoubted advantages of the modern material.
In case of irreparable deformations, it would be better to remove the damaged section of the beam to avoid unnecessary costs.
A simple solution
Probably the most popular option should be the simplest option for strengthening the attic floor, namely, installing a pillar supporting the problem beam. This simple method solves the issue of accepting loads with a vertical support. The work, in this case, is reduced only to the installation of the pole. As a result, the main problem disappears, but two others appear in its place.
One drawback is the formation of a point load acting on the floor. The second is related to the aesthetic side of the issue. The fact is that a pole installed in the middle of the room will look ridiculous. But if you decorate it in an original way, the support can turn into an interesting decorative element, and also functional.
There is another way to strengthen the attic floor. But its use is effective only in cases where the ceiling beams do not have deformations.
The load-bearing capacity of the structure is increased by installing additional purlins with mandatory winding of their ends with roofing material. Protective measures avoid mechanical damage and help resist moisture.
Strengthening the attic flooring
If the beams are strengthened for the purpose of further constructing the attic, then you will still have to think about updating the flooring. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to use OSP boards. They are laid on the subfloor. Subsequently, finishing work is carried out.
Wood is a building material that has high thermal and mechanical properties. Valuable structural qualities - light weight, strength, industrial production of building parts, transportability - determine economic feasibility use of wood in construction.
However, wood also has one big disadvantage: under certain conditions, it can be destroyed by biological agents (insects and wood-destroying fungi). In addition, wood staining and mold fungi may appear on wooden structures. These organisms do not destroy wood, but can significantly damage its appearance.
Thus, molds paint the wooden surface an unpleasant dirty green color, and wood-staining ones - yellow, blue, brown, reddish, etc. Blue discoloration especially often appears on the wood, which is also a sign of damage by wood-staining fungi.
As a rule, it appears on sapwood when raw wood is stored in warehouses, slow drying or in already finished houses from insufficiently dried or damp logs (see Figure 1).
Figure 1. Manifestation of blue on wall logs
Blue stains can affect wood of any species, most often coniferous. Infestation by blue fungi begins from the surface. Penetration into the wood occurs along the core rays. For example, on rounded ends the blue forms radial wedge-shaped spots; sometimes there is a solid color of the sapwood (see Figure 2). Elongated spots and stripes of blue are observed in the lumber and on the side surfaces.
Figure 2. Damage to blue sapwood of pine wall logs
The optimal temperature for the reproduction and growth of blue fungi is considered to be 20-25 degrees; at 7-8 degrees the growth of the fungus slows down. As for humidity, the optimal range is considered to be 33-82%, but wider limits are possible (from 22 to 163%).
Blue-stained wood usually has an increased rate of water absorption. After the influence of blue fungi on wooden structures for a month, the rate of water absorption of the sapwood of pine wall logs increases by one and a half times.
Wood affected by mold fungi does not actually change its technical properties, however, a damaged appearance reduces its value. Blue fungi and mold are the primary complex of destroyers, which, with prolonged exposure, create a favorable environment for the further development of house fungi, which are especially dangerous for wood.
Wood-decaying fungi cause great damage to wooden structures of structures and buildings, sometimes completely rendering them inoperable. Such damage is associated with the colonization and development of house fungi in wooden structures. Today, more than 70 species of such fungi are known, many of them capable of causing local damage. They destroy wood rather slowly and are of little practical importance.
Wood rotting is a natural process of decomposition that is characteristic of any dead plant. Wood decomposition occurs due to wood-decaying fungi. These are lower plant organisms that penetrate deep into the wood and use its components for their development.
At favorable conditions spores (fungal embryos) begin to germinate, turning into hyphae, that is, mushroom threads.
Enzymes secreted by developing fungal threads partially dissolve the walls of wood cells. They are used by fungi for growth and nutrition. This is how rotting occurs - the biological resolution of wood.
During the initial stages of decay, wood does not change its appearance, so the presence of fungal threads can only be detected under a microscope. Later, the wood becomes reddish or yellow, then brown and brown, its strength and density gradually decreases, it loses viscosity, becomes soft and light. At the last stage of decay, transverse and longitudinal cracks appear in wood structures, along which it will disintegrate into separate prisms. The properties of this wood are similar to charred: with light pressure it is ground into powder. This type of rot is called destructive. It is characteristic of house fungi, which destroy structures in structures and buildings (see Figure 3).
Figure 3. House mushroom variety Merulius lacrymans (Fr.) S.F. Gray:
a – mycelium; b – young fruiting body;
c – old fruiting body; d – appearance of old mycelium, rot and wood cords
Mandatory conditions for the development of wood-decaying fungi are:
- Sufficient wood moisture content (more than 20%)
- Availability of food
- Positive temperature.
If any of these conditions are absent, the development of the fungus will be delayed, even if it has taken root in the wood. The humidity and temperature of wood that are needed for the growth of house mushrooms are given below.
Table 1
| Type of house mushroom | Temperature, °C | Wood moisture content % |
||
| minimum | optimal | maximum | ||
| Real | 8 | 23 | 27 | 20 |
| White | 5 | 27 | 37 | 35 |
| Filmy | 8 | 23 | 37 | 50-60 |
The greatest damage to wooden structures can be caused by the following types mushrooms: white brownie, real white, filmy brownie.
To combat wood rotting they are used various means: chemical protection measures that are based on the use of biologically active substances and drugs. They are able to prevent the development, weaken or stop the vital activity of organisms that cause damage, sometimes to the point of complete destruction, of objects, individual structures or materials.
Protection wooden house from biodegradation can be done with chemicals and drugs called antiseptics.
Depending on the service conditions of the impregnated material, its purpose and the type of protective composition, it is customary to use two different types of impregnation in construction:
- Antiseptic when the composition is applied to the surface. This ensures penetration of impregnation into the surface layer of wood 1-2 mm deep
- Canning or deep impregnation, in which the applied composition penetrates to a depth of about 2-3 cm or more.
If protection of a wooden house from biodestruction produced by antiseptic chemicals have a short-term toxic effect on destroyers. When canning, antiseptics have a long-term poisoning effect on destroyers.
The bulk of wooden structures used on construction sites, as well as in wooden house-building enterprises, are treated with antiseptics using surface application.
Deep impregnation is used mainly in woodworking shops of enterprises and impregnation plants.
You can buy wood preservatives from the manufacturer Skolt; in general, antiseptics have a fairly extensive range, and can be selected individually according to the request of each client. This diversity is caused by different operating conditions of wood, availability of chemical resources, availability of chemical resources, economic and safety requirements.
Below are tips for choosing antiseptics that will provide preventive protection of a wooden house from biodestruction. It can be used in residential buildings, garden houses, cottages.
Floors
In residential buildings, three types of floors are used: interfloor, basement, and attic. For interfloor and basement floors, common sources of moisture are leaks due to faulty plumbing fixtures and household moisture.
Basement ceilings
The moisture content of wooden structures in the underground is influenced by the level of soil moisture under the building. In waterproof soils where there is surface water, as well as in wet soils that are permeable, strip foundations remain in a wet state. This causes capillary moistening of the soil base of the underground and the laying of the brick plinth. If the strip foundation is solid and the soil moisture is high, the air humidity in the underground also increases. This leads to the settlement and development of wood-destroying fungi on the floors.
Moisture that evaporates from the soil can be removed from the underground using vents installed in the basement. This allows you to ensure normal humidity conditions for basement structures.
In the first half of summer in middle lane the concentration of water vapor in the underground is actually no different from the concentration that is in the outside air. At this time, there is practically no diffusion release of moisture from the underground.
During this period, moisture cannot be removed by air flow, which only occurs during gusts of wind, since the moisture capacity of the air in the underground and outside is almost the same. It is at this time that wood rotting processes occur.
As a rule, a warm basement floor is installed over a cold underground, and load-bearing beams are most often placed inside the ceiling between the floor and the firmware. They can also partially extend into the underground space (for example, when installing a subfloor along the cranial bars).
In any case, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of wood-destroying and mold fungi appearing on the wood. You should also take into account the difficulty of monitoring the condition of the wooden floor. That is why, before carrying out installation work, it is recommended to treat all floor elements with antiseptics - beams, purlins, subfloor panels and boards, finished floors and joists (see Figure 4). Particular care must be taken to antisepticize those elements that are located in the thickness of the ceiling and are not subject to regular visual observation (see Table 2).
Figure 4. Basement floor on beams and outer wall made of round timber:
1 – ventilation duct; 2 – gasket for thermal insulation (tarred tow); 3 – frame crown; 4 – lighthouse batten every 60 cm; 5- boards external cladding; 6 – flooring boards; 7 – logs; 8 – insulation; 9 – load-bearing beam; 10 – vapor barrier; 11 – support boards; 12 – subfloor boards; 13 – support lining; 14 – column made of concrete or brick; 15 – cranial block; 16 – waterproofing; 17 - blind area
To perform antiseptic treatment, it is recommended to buy BIODEKOR or BIODECODER-M. These antiseptics are highly effective against wood-destroying and mold fungi, blue stains, insects, and have increased resistance to leaching. Antiseptic BIODEKOR-M does not corrode non-ferrous and ferrous metals. If you buy BIODECODER-M and treat wood with it, it will acquire a pleasant light green tint. When using the BIODECODER, the wood is painted chestnut. These antiseptics do not hide the texture of wooden structures and are odorless.
Interfloor ceilings
Most often, the cause of rotting of wooden structures of interfloor ceilings is the use of raw wood and the lack of proper conditions for drying.
In beam-type ceilings, the ends of the beams located in the places of their contact with external stone walls (gas silicate, brick, foam concrete, etc.) are particularly dangerous. They can be moistened by condensation, which forms in winter on the back wall of the nest due to the influx warm air from the room, as well as installation moisture.
Repeated examinations of buildings with wooden floors have shown that the ends of beams located in external walls can be destroyed due to rotting or damage by insects and fungi (Figures 5 and 6).
Figure 5. Wood that is destroyed by wood borers and wood-destroying fungi ( support part floor beams)
Figure 6. Destruction of the edge by house fungus wooden beam ceilings (a), knurling plates (b)
When beams come into contact with external stone walls, blind sealing of the edges of the beams is widespread (Figure 7).
Fig.7. Blind sealing of the beam in contact with the outer wall:
1 – floor beam; 2 – wall of the structure; 3 – the surface of the beam, which must be treated with an antiseptic; 4 – moisture-proof bandage; 5 – plaster for thermal insulation; 6 – waterproofing; 7 – foam for installation; 8 – wooden lining treated with antiseptic; 9 – waterproofing layer
When antisepticizing, the end of the beam must be beveled at an angle of 60-75 degrees, then the end of the beam, including the end itself, must be treated with a substance to a length that exceeds the depth of the structure by 15-20 centimeters. Based on the fact that the supporting part of the beam is exposed to droplet-liquid moisture, the hard-to-wash-out preparation BIODEKOR-M is used for treatment.
The end should be protected especially carefully, since it is most often subject to rotting. The structure is treated with an antiseptic until completely saturated, that is, until absorption stops. Then the treated surfaces, except for the end surface, must be protected from moisture using adhesive waterproofing (you can use stekloizol, hydrostekloizol, etc.).
Those surfaces of the beams that are located in the span are operated in more favorable conditions than the ends in contact with the stone walls. However, you need to take into account that during operation they may get water. These could be accidental leaks as a result of a sewer or plumbing system, heating devices etc.).That is why they antiseptic treatment is appropriate. For this purpose, DOMOVOY antiseptic can be used. This drug has high diffusion ability. It penetrates deeply into wood with high humidity, which allows the product to be used to protect damp or poorly dried wood. After treatment with this product, the wood retains its texture and does not change color. It is important that DOMOVOY does not corrode ferrous metals, so contact of treated wood with metal structures, details.
For the protective treatment of various wooden floor elements, antiseptic preparations KRAM-S and KRAM can also be used. They are intended for impregnation of wood, which during operation is not subject to condensation moisture (see Table 2). These antiseptics provide multifunctional protection for wood structures, including helping against biodegradation and providing preventive protection against insects. KRAM-S does not change the color of wood, but KRAM paints it light brown.
Attic floors
When installing floors on beams, it is necessary to take the same measures to protect the edges of the beams as when installing interfloor floors (this can be treatment with the BIODEKOR-M antiseptic with further waterproofing of the protected side surfaces).
Figure 8. Contact points between attic floor beams and rafters on the outer wall
1 – window/door frame;. 2 – outer wall; 3 – plaster for thermal insulation; 4 – surf; 5 – cladding material for the eaves overhang; 6 – sheathing; 7 – roofing sheets; 8 – rafter leg; 9 – filly; 10 – mauerlat beam; 11 and 12 – waterproofing; 13 – supporting edge of the beam; 14 – load-bearing beam; 15 – blind sealing with cement; 16 – vapor barrier; 17 – insulation; 18 – reeling boards; 19 – cranial beam; 20 – filing boards; 21 - lining
You also need to consider protective measures wooden floors from moisture from precipitation that penetrates into the attic through holes in the roof, as well as from condensation that forms due to freezing in the thickness of the ceiling.
Through the attic floor, in the same way as through other external fencing, diffusion of water vapor from the premises into the attic occurs. That is why, in order to protect the insulation from humidification by internal air vapor, it is necessary to protect it with a vapor barrier layer on the “warm” side (Figure 8). High-quality heat and vapor insulation will not only provide the necessary thermal protection, but will also significantly increase the durability of the rafter and roofing material. If the vapor barrier is missing, damaged or poorly installed, water vapor will be able to penetrate through the ceiling into the attic and flow onto the wooden beams. As a result, corrosion develops metal parts and ceilings, destruction of rafters and roofing carpet.
If the tightness of the vapor barrier layer is broken, the insulation becomes moist and, accordingly, the heat-protective characteristics of the ceiling decrease. Those floor elements that should be treated with an antiseptic are shown in Table 2.
To protect floors from biodegradation, antiseptic treatment with DOMOVOY, KRAM-S, KRAM antiseptics can be used as a preventative measure.
Elements rafter system(Figure 8)
The safety of rafters, trusses, racks, purlins, mauerlats and other elements of the rafter system largely depends on the temperature and humidity conditions that exist in the attic. It can be heated (attics) or cold (unused).
Cold attics
In winter, air with high moisture content penetrates through leaks in hatches and doors from living quarters into the attic. This causes intense condensation on the elements of the rafter system and cold roof surfaces.
It is necessary to pay special attention to the condition of the roof. Sometimes barely noticeable damage to the roof can eventually lead to the destruction of the supporting structure as a result of rotting (Figure 9).
To prevent biodestruction of rafter system elements, it is recommended that they be antisepticized with BIODEKOR-M, KRAM-S, KRAM. If, due to fire safety requirements, it is necessary to protect wooden structures from fire, you can use complex fire-bioprotective preparations FENAX, SENEGA-OB.
Figure 9. Destruction of the rafter leg by house mushrooms when the roof is damaged
Mauerlats that rest on stone walls must be placed above the attic insulation level by no less than three rows of brickwork. After treatment with antiseptics, it is necessary to lay rolled waterproofing between the masonry and the mauerlats.
Elements of the rafter system that are subject to mandatory antiseptic treatment are shown in Table 2.
Attic coverings
When installing attics, the insulated covering must be partially or completely combined with the roof. The basis for the durability of the combined coating will be the creation of a solid insulation contour around the perimeter attic floor, as well as ensuring good vapor and waterproofing around the insulation contour and its ventilation.
It must be said that insulating a combined attic covering is considered a more difficult task than insulating a wall covering. On the enclosing surface of the attic room, the condensation of water vapor contained in warm air is higher than in those rooms located on other floors of the building. Under normal conditions (air temperature about twenty degrees Celsius and relative humidity 65%), the water vapor content is about 11.4 g/cub.m. the dew point will occur at 13.2 degrees. Under the attic ceiling, the temperature will be a couple of degrees higher than inside the room, so condensation will begin to form on those surfaces that have a temperature of 15-16 degrees.
As a rule, insulation in the covering of attic spaces is laid between the rafters. To produce insulation, glass and mineral wool slabs of sufficient density are used. In this case, all elements of the rafter system are located out of sight. Moreover, some of them, for example, rafter legs, are partially or completely in the insulation layer. It is worth saying that this scheme allows rational use of the entire thickness of the coating, but it justifies itself provided that the work is carried out competently.
A large number of problems when installing insulation between rafters arise due to loose contact of the thermal insulation with the side surfaces of the rafter legs. If the gaps between the rafters and insulation are not sealed, which happens quite often, condensation will form. It appears on the surfaces of the rafter legs, as well as locally - in the area where the rafters are located and on the ceiling.
If condensation forms on wooden surfaces occurs systematically, they may be damaged by wood-destroying fungi. Considering that these processes take place secretly, they are detected only when the deformation of the rafters becomes noticeable.
This phenomenon can also be observed with insufficient use of insulation. In this case, in winter, the coating freezes, systematically moistening the wood, as well as the insulation itself, with condensate.
The above makes it clear that protecting the wooden parts of combined attic spaces from possible biodegradation is a mandatory measure.
It is necessary to take into account that visual control of the condition of the rafter system in such coatings is impossible; bioprotective treatment of wood is carried out with hard-to-wash antiseptics with a long service life. In this case, it is recommended to use the antiseptic drug BIODEKOR-M.
External wall logs and beams (see Figure 4)
The main reason for the premature failure of paving and log walls is their destruction by wood-destroying fungi. This is largely facilitated by shrinkage cracks, which become a kind of “gate” for fungal infection and atmospheric water to penetrate into the layers of wood. They cause internal damage to the timber or log (this is central rot).
Practice shows that in buildings made of timber and logs, rot most often affects the lower crowns.
What is happening can be explained by the direct impact of atmospheric precipitation on the structures, as well as the consequences of differential condensation, which is observed when wooden elements with large cross-sections are installed directly on a brick or concrete base without laying thermal insulation between them.
In spring, when daily fluctuations in outside air temperature are more significant, during the day the solid base warms up more slowly than wood. Due to the temperature hysteresis of the base and wood, condensation of air water vapor will be observed in the mass of wood at the point of contact with the base. As a result, internal (central) rotting of the lower crown may occur. This can be avoided using comprehensive (chemical and structural protection measures). It is worth saying that chemical protection measures come down to treatment with the difficult-to-wash-out preparation BIODECODER-M; it is applied in a specific way, which is called “wet on wet”. Shrinkage cracks must be filled with special care. It is advisable to use this method for those lower crowns of logs that already have formed cracks. Otherwise, when using insufficiently dried, damp logs, cracks will appear there after drying. They will tear the protective layer. This may lead to the nullification or significant reduction of the expected antiseptic effect.
To protect the cobblestone and log walls of a house from biodegradation and exposure to precipitation, they are often covered with decorative boards (this can be lining, land house, block house, etc.), sheet materials, and siding. Brick cladding is also often used. The cladding is located at a distance of about 25 centimeters from the wall. This provides a drying regime for the structures. Air gap must be designed in such a way as to completely prevent the ingress of precipitation into it. Ventilation occurs with the help of air entering under the casing from below and exiting near the eaves. In paving stones and log walls with brick cladding, the ventilated gap should be at least 5-7 centimeters.
The practice of construction, as well as the operation of buildings with the cladding of the outer walls of the house with decorative boards, indicates that when laying the cladding, wall beams and logs are in conditions where the possibility of the appearance of wood-destroying and mold fungi is either completely absent or minimal. When facing walls with brick, the ventilation gap is often blocked by mortar, which falls down when laying the brickwork. Because of this, an unventilated space is created between the cladding and the wall. In this case, the likelihood of mushrooms appearing on the surface increases significantly. That is why, for prevention, it is necessary to perform an antiseptic treatment of the outer surfaces of wall beams and logs before laying bricks. For this purpose, preparations such as BIODEKOR-M, KRAM-S or KRAM can be used (see Table 2)
External plank cladding of gables and walls
It must be said that it is necessary to protect the plank lining itself, both from the inside and from outside. In many ways, the durability of the cladding depends on the profile of the board, its placement on the facade of the building, and the type of attachment to the frame. The sheathing boards are either horizontal or vertical. Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.
If the boards are vertical, atmospheric water can flow freely along the fibers and linger only at the bottom. If the height of the base is insufficient, the cladding boards are subjected to increased moisture from slanting rain, melting snow and splashes from the blind area. The same can happen in the absence of ebb tides or with protruding plinths. In this case, the ends of the boards become waterlogged, which creates optimal conditions for biodegradation of wood. If rotting occurs, all boards will have to be replaced.
The version of the cladding arrangement with the boards placed horizontally also has its disadvantages. Experience suggests that in the case of horizontal boards, rainwater will drain much worse than from those boards that are located vertically. This is explained by the fact that during operation the surface of the boards becomes fleecy (rough) over time, and marks may appear on it. small cracks. This promotes moisture penetration into the wood. On horizontal boards, unlike vertical ones, mold or staining fungi often appear. They are predominantly localized at the bottom of the boards, where greater moisture occurs.
Sheathing boards must be treated to prevent biodestruction, to make the surface of the boards decorative, and to reduce warping of the boards during operation. In this case, the outer surface of the boards is often covered with opaque or glaze coatings. After using such coatings, it is necessary to treat the surfaces of the boards with a tinted or colorless antiseptic primer. This could be SKOLTEX-PR. The drug is effective against blue stains, wood-destroying and mold fungi, and insects (Figure 10). SKOLTEX-PR has a high penetrating ability, therefore it can create a stable protective layer on its surface without forming a specific “film” or interfering with gas exchange. In addition, SKOLTEX-PR does not hide the texture of the material and increases the adhesion of protective, decorative and paint and varnish materials to wood.
Figure 10. Pine board after a year in a humid chamber:
On the right is the area that was not treated with a protective preparation, on the left is the area of the board that was treated with SCOLTEX-PR.
For preventive purposes, the reverse side of the cladding board should also be treated with the bioprotective agent SCOLTEX-PR. The preparations KRAM-S and DOMOVOY can also be used for these purposes. These compositions color the materials, and therefore, if the drug accidentally gets on the front surface, they do not leave any traces.
Load-bearing elements wall panels And frame walls classified as hidden structural elements. The condition of the wood can only be determined by indirect signs (for example, by the deformation of walls), since they are not subject to visual inspection. The main reasons for the appearance of wood rot in these walls is the regular condensation of moisture when the walls freeze due to insufficient thickness of the insulation or its settlement.
Figure 11. Basement and outer wall made of panels with a wooden frame:
1 – elements load-bearing frame floor panels; 2 – bottom trim (plywood, boards, etc.); 3 – insulation; 4 – floor covering boards; 5 – vapor barrier; 6 – load-bearing vertical edge of the wall; 7 - interior lining; 8 – external cladding boards; 9 – bars for fixing the casing; 10 – supporting edge of the wall; 11 – wooden rand beam; 12 – pile, columnar foundation; 13 – tarred tow; 14 – waterproofing; 15 – base covering; 16 – ventilation duct; 17 - blind area
If you follow the rules of structural anti-rot prevention, wooden frame walls and panels are special measures chemical protection from biodegradation will not be required. It should be taken into account that it is impossible to guarantee the absence of conditions for the formation of fungi inside the walls and on the wood. That is why antiseptic treatment of the wall frame, as well as panels, will not hurt (see Table 2). The beams of the lower frame of the walls, as well as the supporting ribs of the panels and rand beams must be treated with the hard-to-wash antiseptic preparation BIODEKOR or BIODEKOR-M. To perform biocontainment treatment on others structural elements panel and frame walls, you can use antiseptic compositions KRAM, KRAM-S, DOMOVOY. The main condition for bioprotective treatment with these antiseptic preparations on a construction site is the protection of impregnated wood from exposure to precipitation.
Partitions. Protective treatment Antiseptics are only necessary for wooden elements of interior partitions that are adjacent to concrete or brick external walls within a strip of half a meter. In bathroom partitions, racks, trims, and braces are subject to antiseptic treatment. The compositions used for their bioprotective treatment are given in Table 2.
Terraces, porches, balconies. During operation, balconies and terraces, depending on the design and architectural solution in varying degrees exposed to natural influences, including precipitation. They lead to systematic moistening of the wood, which can lead to the appearance of wood-decaying fungi. Most often, bi-destruction of fences and floorings of open terraces and balconies occurs (Figures 12 and 13).
They can be protected with comprehensive protection, including impregnation of wood with a difficult-to-wash-out composition followed by application of a protective and decorative coating. Antiseptic treatment of wood can be done using the preparations BIODEKOR, BIODEKOR-M. To protect the surface from moisture use paint and varnish compositions organic/water based, protective and decorative preparations, their choice on modern market wide enough.
Figure 12. Destruction of a balcony fence by a house fungus, which does not have chemical and structural protection.
Figure 13. Damage to house fungus on balcony decking (this is a view from below)
Long-term and reliable protection Rot protection of porch elements, as well as loggias and balconies, is provided with antiseptics BIODEKOR and BIODEKOR-M. Considering that the most vulnerable to rotting are the lower ends of the pillars (chairs) 5 and the bed 1, which are in contact with the ground (Figures 14 and 15), they must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition to a sufficient depth. This is the most affordable and easiest way to process wood in construction conditions. Thus, it is possible to obtain high-quality impregnation by soaking wooden elements in an antiseptic solution for several days. To perform soaking, you can use a variety of containers. These can be bathtubs that are made of boards and lined from the inside with several layers of plastic film. To impregnate the lower ends of chairs that are installed in the ground, plastic barrels are useful (Figure 16). Other elements of the porch (purlins, flooring, steps, stringers) are treated with an antiseptic. To do this, the composition is applied to the surface by spraying, brushing, or briefly immersing it in an antiseptic composition.
Figure 14. Porch:
1 – lying down; 2 – stringer; 3 – steps; 4 – flooring; 5 – chairs; 6 - run
Figure 15. Installing a wooden post in the ground:
1 – pillar; 2 – end of a column impregnated with an antiseptic composition; 3 – roll waterproofing; 4 – binding wire
Figure 16. Impregnation of pillars that are installed in the ground:
1 – pillars; 2 – barrel; 3 – level of composition for processing; 4 – base
A list of structural elements that are subject to biodegradation and must be subject to antiseptic treatment.
table 2| Houses made of timber (logs), frame and panel type | |||
| Constructions | Elements to be antiseptic | Antiseptic | |
| Rafter system (Fig. 8) |
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| Exterior walls | From round timber and timber (Fig. 4) |
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| Frame and panel walls (Fig. 11) |
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| Floors | Basement beam structures (Fig. 4) |
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| Basement panels (Fig. 11) |
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| Interfloor and attic (Fig. 1) |
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| Partitions |
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| Floors (Fig. 4 and 11) |
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| Window and door frames (Fig. 8) |
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| Terraces, balconies, porch (Fig. 14) |
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Technical Director: A. D. Lomakin
Wood is the traditional, main material for flooring, despite its inherent disadvantages. Its structure is based on organic substances: this makes wood less resistant to destructive factors compared to other types building materials. In addition to oxidation, and both metals and concrete are susceptible to this process, wood fibers are threatened by biological organisms, sunlight, water, and fire. To extend the service life of structures, builders are making certain efforts aimed at improving operating conditions wooden parts or giving them new properties.
Wood beams: operating conditions and protection
The floor joists, due to their location, are protected from sunlight, are not influenced by water flows or sudden temperature changes. However, they are affected by condensed and partly capillary moisture, as well as living organisms: fungus, bugs, snails. The influence of each factor can lead to damage and rotting of parts. The main enemies are biological agents; their penetration into the wood structure leads to blue discoloration of the material. The defect itself does not violate the strength characteristics of the timber, however, over time, other types of microorganisms settle in the affected areas, for which blue-tinted fibers are the best nutrient medium.
There are various ways to protect wooden building elements. SNiP 2.03.11-85 identifies structural and chemical measures that must be performed when installing floors.
A preventative measure against rot is competent device underground space, condensation should not collect in it. To prevent its formation, ventilation is installed in the basement of the house: vents are made between the flooring and the base of the floor - holes that ensure air circulation. If water forms and accumulates in large quantities under the boards, perform drainage.
In the case where a concrete screed is laid under the floor in a house or bathhouse, it is advisable to equip the ground floor with vertical pits to drain condensate. If the base surface is covered with sand, it is not necessary to make channels.
To protect the logs from rotting, even at the installation stage, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of absorption of water rising from the ground along the foundation elements. To do this, perform mechanical waterproofing: under beams and boards in places of contact with piles or concrete base lay bitumen-containing films.
Compositions for chemical protection of wooden elements
The main way to prevent rot from forming is to use chemical coatings on the floor joists. All SNiP protective fluids are divided into several groups:
- surface applied antiseptics;
- impregnating compositions;
- film-forming substances.
According to SNiP, materials for surface antibacterial protection can be:
- water soluble;
- organic;
- oil
The first group includes salts (fluorides), borates (washable antiseptics), as well as compounds containing chromium, copper, arsenic, which are called difficult to wash out. The second group includes alkyd, urethane and acrylic compounds. The third set of antiseptics includes resin-containing substances based on coal, anthracene and other similar compounds. This also includes vegetable oils of linseed, hemp and gum, as well as rosin and tar.
Glazing materials are intended for surface application - to a depth of 1–3 mm. Impregnations penetrate 15–35 mm into the fibers. Water-washable compounds are suitable for protecting parts that are not exposed to atmospheric precipitation and are not subject to intensive washing: in a bath they can be used to cover, for example, logs.
Antiseptics are classified according to their functional use:
- transport;
- preservatives;
- whitening;
- fire protection (flame retardants).
Factors determining the suitability of timber
In order to be completely confident in the quality of the floor, it is advisable to find out in advance the history of the origin of the wood from which the beams are planned to be made. The tree must undergo the first antimicrobial treatment at the stage of primary sawing. Moreover, the duration of its implementation is strictly limited: 12 hours after cutting.
Second important point is drying. According to standards established since 1925, all timber must undergo a mandatory period of closed warehouse storage. Coniferous wood is aged for at least a year, oak - more than two years. In this case, the humidity indicator is important: for pine and spruce it should be 15–18%.
If, to place a steam room in a bathhouse, you make logs from raw wood and lay them on a damp foundation, they will collapse in a year or two. The preservative coating will turn the timber into a closed incubator for mold growth. It follows that you need to coat material that is guaranteed to have passed preliminary preparation and drying.
Chemical protection materials
In individual housing construction it is used as homemade impregnations, and factory-made mixtures. The first group of antiseptics contains solutions prepared on the basis of materials recommended by GOST, SNiP, as well as preparations made according to folk recipes.
For biological protection of logs in a country bathhouse or at home, impregnations based on copper salts, urea, linseed oil, a solution of wood resin and beeswax are used. Oil mixtures are heated before use. Together with normal ventilation, this coating provides wooden floor elements with a long life. Experienced carpenters claim: with active vents made in the base of the bathhouse, beams made of dried wood do not rot.
According to folk recipe
One of the popular compositions used to preserve logs is machine mining. There are many recipes that are based on a combination of oily waste, diesel fuel and various salts. However, craftsmen claim that coating with oil alone is extremely reliable: with its help you can stop the process of rotting on already damaged beams.
The method has become widespread due to the large supply of used oil. The effectiveness of the method is beyond doubt: there are many active substances in the process that can neutralize the development of any biological process. For this reason, it is not recommended to apply the treatment to the entire surface of the lag - the chemical activity is high. This material should not be used to protect parts in a bathhouse. It is considered relatively safe to coat small areas of the most affected part of the timber - the ends and notches: it is in these places that the most accessible path is located along which microorganisms penetrate deep into the fibers.
The treatment is applied hot: the mixture is heated in a water bath, then rubbed into the prepared surface using a brush or brush. It is not necessary to polish the timber before processing; the molten emulsion penetrates deeper if the surface remains unplaned.
In accordance with the requirements of the standards
Traditional compositions are solutions of borax, potassium dichromate, silicate glue, and vinegar. Today there are compositions that have high antibacterial properties and are safe for others. These are compositions made according to the recommended recipe in accordance with GOST requirements and are intended to perform various functions. In most cases, they allow you to protect house parts from damage by living organisms, flames and active chemicals.
For guard load-bearing beams For bath floors, you can use certain brands of industrial impregnations. Among them are Finnish, Tikkurila, Bioks, Biosept and many others. Indications for use in each case are indicated on the packaging (in the user manual). Compositions designed to protect logs in a bathhouse are distinguished by the fact that they ensure minimal shrinkage of wood and maximally close the pores at the ends of posts and boards. These compositions do not necessarily have to protect the material from sunlight, temperature changes and emphasize the texture of the fibers.
Joists are one of the most important components of flooring in a home. According to their purpose, they are supporting elements on which floor boards are laid. Thanks to the joists, the rigidity of the entire floor structure is ensured. Therefore, it is important to ensure their resistance to decay and microorganisms. Moisture resistance can be achieved by special wood treatment. What and how to process lags will be discussed below.
Logs and external environment
Theoretically, lags should not be directly affected by aggressive environmental factors. First of all, we are talking about dampness. The fact is that if the logs are laid on the foundation of a building, they do not have direct contact with the environment, since the material is vapor-proofed and waterproofed. However, due to temperature differences between the upper and lower levels, condensation still accumulates in the underground.
It should be understood that builders do not always strictly observe technological process when laying floors, and if this was the case, then the wooden structure will also begin to rot.
Scheme of a wooden floor on joists Another enemy of wood is harmful microorganisms. Due to natural factors, any unprotected wooden structure is susceptible to pests. Therefore, processing of any wooden structures is an urgent need.
There is no one - only the right way processing lags. In each specific case, many circumstances must be taken into account, for example, the type of wood. After all, each type of wood reacts to humidity differently. However, a number of general recommendations can be given that will give you an idea of the correct approach to treating floor joists.
The main way to protect wood from rotting and microorganisms is treatment with chemicals.
Classification of compositions for treating lags
Chemicals for protecting wood when installing floors, according to building regulations and rules are divided into several types:
- surface antiseptics;
- impregnation;
- film-forming compositions.
According to SNiP standards, surface compositions are divided into three types:
- water soluble;
- organic;
- oil
Water-soluble compounds include fluorides, borates (washable antiseptic substances), as well as complex compounds containing chromium, arsenic and copper (difficult to wash out antiseptics). Organics include compositions based on alkyds, urethanes and acrylics. A large group of oil compositions includes substances based on coal, anthracenes and other compounds of this kind. Oil preparations also include formulations based on vegetable oil, tar, rosin.
Glazing compounds are used for surface treatment. By surface application we mean a depth of 1-3 millimeters. Impregnations are capable of penetrating 15-35 millimeters into the wood structure.
Note! Non-washable preparations are used to protect parts subject to heavy rainfall and regular wet cleaning.
According to their functionality, antiseptic agents are classified as follows:
- preservatives;
- fireproof;
- transport;
- whitening.
Chemicals can be roughly divided into factory-produced compounds and folk remedies.
Branded formulations
They are divided into fire-protective and bioprotective agents, as well as non-washable antiseptics.
Fire-retardant substances
This method of protection is one of the most effective, since it allows you to protect wooden materials not only from microorganisms and putrefactive processes, but also protects against fire. The latter quality, due to the fire hazard of wood, is of considerable importance.
Fire-retardant substances preserve the structure of the logs for many years: fire protection is provided for 3 years, and biological protection material - for 25 years. Although, if a wooden product is not used in extreme conditions, real time the effect of the drugs will be higher.
Fire-retardant compounds are environmentally friendly, lack unpleasant odors and are completely safe to use. The environmental friendliness of the drugs is ensured by their composition: there are no components dangerous to humans, including allergens.
Any legally sold drug must have a conclusion from a sanitary-epidemiological station, fire regulations and a quality certificate.
Bioprotective compounds
Drugs in this group improve only bioprotective qualities wooden materials. Bioprotective compounds protect wood from blueing, mold, rotting, fungi and wood-boring beetles that destroy the material. The drugs provide bioprotection for 25-30 years. 
Most often, antiseptic drugs are sold in the form of concentrates. In some cases, pigmenting substances are added to the formulations. The pigment allows you to visually control the quality of the coating on a wooden surface.
Bioprotective products have a low odor, are environmentally friendly, and do not contain allergens. They are easy to prepare - just dilute them in water. Surface treatment can be done in a variety of ways, including roller, brush, spray, and dipping.
Used to protect structures operated in conditions of high humidity. For example, non-washable antiseptics are relevant at high levels of precipitation, temperature changes, as well as in buildings where wood is often moistened due to operating conditions (baths, saunas).
Working with non-washable antiseptics is not difficult, but it is time consuming. The approximate consumption of the substance per square meter is 350-400 grams. Surface application is achieved after 3-4 layers. If we are talking about dipping, you will need to soak the material for 20-30 minutes.
This group of antiseptics gains adhesive properties after final drying. The color of the wood usually becomes pistachio due to pigments added to the composition.
Folk remedies
Wooden floor joists can be treated not only with factory-made compounds, but also with all kinds of folk remedies.
When choosing a specific composition for protecting lags, you should be guided by your goals. Of all the options described above, perfect choice- a fire-bioprotective substance that has a maximum spectrum of action.
Treatment of floor and ceiling beams in a house and bathhouse is carried out to protect them from damage by rot, mold and mildew during the initial stage of construction of a house or bathhouse or at the time of construction. finishing. It is also important to treat intermediate floors with an antiseptic to protect the wood, because in the future, these areas of the house will be sewn up and access to floor beams, ceiling beams, hidden cavities and floor slabs will be limited or impossible without partial or complete disassembly structures of the floor, ceiling, partitions or attic floor.
To choose the right antiseptic for floor and ceiling beams, as well as an antiseptic or impregnation for treating interfloor ceilings or structures, you need to know a simple rule:
- In the house and especially in the bathhouse, more attention should be paid to bioprotection when treating floor beams and subfloors. Bioprotective treatment of floor beams will prevent rotting of beams made of logs or timber, boards, etc. in rooms with high humidity and a risk of mold and mildew formation.
- It is advisable to protect ceiling beams and ceiling beams, as well as interfloor ceilings and structures, using not only an antiseptic against fungus, an antiseptic against mold, a composition against wood rot (bioprotective impregnations for wood), but also against fire and the spread of fire. To do this, use fire-retardant antiseptics and fire-retardant impregnations.
When to start treating floor and ceiling beams with fire-retardant compounds:
- You can protect floor and ceiling beams from darkening, protect interfloor ceilings from mold and mildew, and treat floor and ceiling beams, boards and beams while storing harvested logs or lumber prepared for cutting a log house or timber before its assembly.
- It is necessary to protect floor beams from mold and bark beetles, protect joists and floor joists at the time of assembling your house or bathhouse.
- You can treat floor beams against fungus with a fire-retardant antiseptic or treat ceiling beams immediately after assembling a house from logs or timber on the customer’s site after it final installation“under the roof” for the entire period of “shrinkage” and “standing” of the log house until the start of finishing the log house or covering the house made of timber with siding.
It is very important to protect the floor and ceiling beams in the most short time after assembly, because timber from a log house or bathhouse may have high humidity and is most susceptible to darkening and negative impact fungal and mold spores. The beams carry the main load of the floors and everything that you will load on them. When a floor joist rots, the cost to repair or replace it can be very expensive.
← Photo of how to properly treat floor and ceiling beams with a fire-resistant antiseptic
What kind of protection will floor beams, ceiling beams, hidden cavities and interfloor ceilings in the house treated with a fire-bioprotective composition receive:
- protection of floor and ceiling beams from fire, protection of ceiling beams from fire,
- protection of ceiling and floor joists and beams in a log house from darkening, mold, mildew,
- protection of floor beams and ceiling beams in a log house from bark beetles, protection of beams from woodworm larvae infestation,
- protection of interfloor ceilings, floor and ceiling beams from wetness and moisture,
- reducing cracking of floor and ceiling beams from cracking.
BUY antiseptic to protect floor beams and ceiling beams in the house and bathhouse:
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for wood protection of floor and ceiling beams from fire, fire, mold, bark beetle,fungus, woodworm. Comprehensive protection of floor and ceiling beams. |
for wood. protection of floor and ceiling beams, interfloor ceilings of the house and bathhouse from mold, bark beetle, fungus, woodworm,darkening, etc. |
| In the category, some are selected and offered antiseptics for fire protection of floor and ceiling beams, interfloor wooden structures according to the criterion of MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY and QUALITY of work of protective impregnations at MINIMUM COSTS for the customer for the entire life of the composition. |
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| BUY fire-bioprotective antiseptic at the ColorLak Trading House. Our recommended compositions - Possible Solution with free shipping |
BUY bioprotective antiseptic at the ColorLak Trading House. Our recommended compositions - Possible Solution with free shipping |
| additional information about our recommended protective compounds |
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Calculator calculation required quantity antiseptic for the protection of floor and ceiling beams |