Goat drawings. Do-it-yourself construction trestles: production and recommendations

Almost every repair and construction work is not complete without performing some operations at height. The average person is not tall enough to reach the ceiling. Therefore, it is necessary to use various devices. A stepladder or even a regular stool is suitable for performing spot work. But when work needs to be done over a large area, while moving, then they will not be enough. Then construction goats come to the rescue.

Construction trestles - what are they?

If previously scaffolding products were made only by hand, today they can be bought ready-made in the store. Shop sawhorses are typically made of aluminum, making them both lightweight and durable. You can find both folding trestles and monolithic structures. But all such goats have one huge drawback - they are quite expensive. That is why the topic of making construction trestles with your own hands always remains relevant.

As we have already noted, construction trestles or scaffolding come in two types:

  1. 1. Foldable. Their advantage is high mobility and compactness for storage after completion of work. But such scaffolding means must be handled with extreme caution. Before working on them, you need to make sure that they are very stable.
  2. 2. Not foldable. They are more reliable, since when finished they represent a single structure.

Making aluminum trestles yourself is quite difficult and very expensive. And in terms of the cost of materials, a homemade design will be even more expensive than one from a store. Wood is the most practical and cheapest material.

In order to assemble wooden scaffolding, you will need the following materials:

  • drawing;
  • roulette;
  • hacksaw or jigsaw;
  • carpentry corner;
  • simple pencil;
  • screwdriver;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • boards;
  • bolts, washers and nuts (for dismountable trestles).

You need to choose lumber that is dry and smooth, without cracks, chips or knots. If they do not meet these characteristics, then they are only suitable for firewood.

What is needed for production

For wooden trestles with a height of 110 cm, you will need lumber of the following sizes:

Boards:

  • 1700x100x30 mm - 2 pcs.;
  • 1500x100x30 mm - 7 pcs.;
  • 1500x50x30 mm - 2 pcs.;
  • 1100x100x30 mm - 4 pcs.;
  • 700x100x30 mm - 2 pcs.;
  • 500x100x30 mm - 7 pcs.

Bars:

  • 100x100x30 mm - 4 pcs.

You will need self-tapping screws:

  • 4x50 - at least 32 pieces;
  • 4x80 - at least 8 pieces.

Hardware must be prepared with reserve, since during assembly they may bend and become unusable.

Before starting work, prepare all the boards according to the list above. You can do this yourself or order it cut into pieces. It is advisable to draw up a drawing for yourself in order to have an idea of ​​the object being created.

Assembly diagram

To make the goats reliable and comfortable, you need to follow the following manufacturing scheme:

  1. 1. Place five boards 1500x100x30 mm and three boards 500x100x30 mm side by side on a flat surface. Place two short boards on edges so that the distance between their edges is 1500 mm. Place the third similar board in the middle, measuring the distance by eye. Lay two long boards on top of the short ones to create a rectangle. Align the central board, 500 mm long, using a tape measure so that it is exactly in the middle. Check the evenness of the structure, lay two more 1500 mm boards and connect them all with screws.
  2. 2. Take two more boards 1500x100x30 mm. Turn the already assembled structure over with the short boards facing up. Lay the long boards on top to form a rectangular frame. Connect everything with self-tapping screws. You will get a flooring or work surface.
  3. 3. Prepare four boards 1100x100x30 mm. Screw them to the work surface from the ends. The result was a structure similar to a table.
  4. 4. We strengthen the structure with oblique crossbars made of boards 1700x100x30 mm and 700x100x30 mm and straight ones 1500x50x30 mm. They are screwed to the legs in such a way that the projections of opposite reinforcements intersect (in other words, they are in different diagonals).
  5. 5. The last step is to screw in the steps, the function of which will be performed by 500x100x30 mm boards. For convenience, the lower steps are made with a projection, so two such boards are screwed to the legs of the trestle with blocks (bars 100x100x30 mm). The height of the steps can be chosen at your discretion.

So, the construction trestles are ready. Since work even at low heights is dangerous, the manufactured structure requires testing. To do this, you need to place a load on top that is larger than the one that will affect the structure during operation. Any heavy objects will do. If the goats have passed the test, then you can safely use them.

One of the most necessary and useful tools for builders is construction scaffolding, commonly known as “construction sawhorses.” You can make such construction devices yourself with the necessary tools, such as a hacksaw, a square for measuring angles, a tape measure, a hammer and nails. In the article you can see the step-by-step assembly of wooden scaffolding.

1. The most practical wood for assembling scaffolding is pine, as it is easy to process and less susceptible to rotting than other types of wood. To make scaffolding we will need a board 30 mm thick and at least 50 mm wide.
2. In order to assemble the scaffolding, we need a work table.
3. If you purchased a wide board, then cut it lengthwise into the bars we need, but for this we will need a circular saw.
4. Usually there are certain standards for construction scaffolding, which are adjusted to the height of the person who works with them. For example, if a person is 1.8 meters tall, we will need scaffolding with a height of 0.8 to 0.9 meters. As human growth decreases or vice versa, make appropriate scaffolding for yourself, based on the above formula.
5. In order for the scaffolding to be stable during its operation, it is necessary to make the correct angular cuts of the legs. The cut is made on that side of the bar, which has a thickness of 30 mm. From one edge of the block we make an angular marking of 65 degrees (see photo). For the scaffolding we will need four legs.
6. In order to fasten the legs of the scaffold we will need a transverse bar approximately 1 to 1.2 meters long. Make two marks from different ends of the crossbar at a distance of 25 centimeters from the edge of the block, this is in order to know where we will attach the legs of the scaffold. We make marks on the wide side of the block.
7. Place the cross beam with its wide side on the surface of the work table, then install the leg along the marking, with the sawed end on the cross beam (see photo).
8. Install the legs, securing them with nails to the cross beam. The legs are installed on one side of the crossbar and on the other (see photo).
9. In order to prevent the legs from moving in different directions when using the scaffolding, we will need a block that will hold the legs together. Attach the block to the legs, and make a mark on the block, using a marker, on the inside of the positioning legs. The block between the legs should be located 20 centimeters from the top of the cross bar.
10. Next, make corner cuts at the connecting bars, according to the previously made marks. Connect the legs with bars using nails.
11.For a more stable position of the scaffolding we will need two diagonal struts. The length of the spacer is 46 centimeters. Make two corner cuts on each block at an angle of 45 degrees.
12. Now connect the diagonal brace between the crossbar and the connecting bar of the legs, using nails.
13.Now that the wooden goats are ready, check them for stability. If one leg of some scaffolding turns out to be longer than the others, then cut it with a hacksaw, equalizing the height with all the others. For construction work we will need two ready-made scaffolding.
14. After the scaffolding is ready for work, lay a pre-prepared shield on top of it, on which you will stand while performing this or that work.

The shield on which you will stand can be made of various types of materials, from boards knocked together, plywood of at least 20 mm, chipboard, etc. You cannot use shields with a slippery surface, such as plastic, metal, glass, etc. how can you get injured by slipping on such a shield.



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  • One of the most useful tools for preparing firewood are devices in the form of...

Like the animal that gives them their name, bucks are reliable, tough, and usually take up a lot of space. However, this sawhorse option can be folded up when not in use, while maintaining all the qualities that traditional sawhorses are prized for. We'll show you how to make just one sawhorse, but you might want to make a couple or more, taking advantage of having all the tools already at the ready.

Cut out the details

1. Cut out legs from pine or spruce boards with a cross-section of 19×150 mm A with an allowance of 13 mm in length (see “List of materials”, rice. 1 And 2) and crossbars IN final length. File the parts to the required width, taking care to remove knots and other defects from the edges. At the lower ends of all legs A make bevels at an angle of 15°. Trim the other end of each leg to its final length. (The bevel on the top end of the leg will be formed after assembly.)

2. Cut the shelf halves from a board with a cross-section of 19×200 mm WITH. Using a Forstner drill, drill two holes with a diameter of 38 mm in each of the halves. (Fig. 3). Draw lines tangent to the holes and use a jigsaw to cut out cutouts that serve as handles. Smoothly sand or file the edges of the cutouts and mill rounding edges with a radius of 6 mm.

3. Saw a 19x150mm board in half lengthwise and glue the two pieces face to face to create a blank for the top beam D. After the glue has dried, file the workpiece to its final width and length.

Assemble the frames

1. To make half-wood joints, install a 19 mm thick groove disk into the saw machine and make test joints on scraps with a cross-section of 19 × 114 mm, setting the sawing depth equal to half the thickness of the workpiece. Saw in the legs A and crossbars IN cutouts for half-timber connections (Fig. 1 And 2).

2. Glue the leg frames A/B and secure them with clamps. When installing clamps at half-wood joints, in order to evenly distribute the pressure over the entire gluing area, place wooden scraps under the jaws of the clamps. Check the squareness of the assembled frames.

3. On the top edge of each frame A/B form a floor bevel at an angle of 15° (photo A).

Set up a circular saw to cut the bevels at 15°, attach a flat board to the A/B leg frame, and cut a bevel on the top edge of the frame.

Finishing and final assembly

1. Final sand all parts and assemblies with sandpaper up to 180 grit and soften the sharp edges. Vacuum away any dust and apply a clear finish. (We brushed on a coat of semi-matte polyurethane varnish.)

2. Place one of the frames A/B onto the workbench with the inside facing up. Position the loops (Fig. 1) so that their cylinders are flush with the top edge of the bevel (photo B). Drill pilot holes for the screws using a centering drill. Do the same with the other frame, then attach the hinges with screws to one of the frames.

To align the hinge cylinder flush with the edge of the bevel, use a scrap piece of wood. A loop attached in this way will not interfere with the installation of the top bar D.

3. Place the shelf halves WITH on the workbench, turning them bottom side up, so that the handle cutouts are side by side. Center the hinges relative to the joint of the halves, drill pilot holes and attach the hinges with screws. Pressing the assembled shelf against the bottom crossbar In one of the frames in the middle between the legs A, center the hinges relative to the joint and drill pilot holes. Repeat with the second frame, this time attaching the hinges to it with screws.

4. Holding the frame A/B without shelf perpendicular to other frame A/B/C, align the top hinges with the corresponding pilot holes and attach the hinge cards with screws. Then turn the shelf WITH into working position, align the hinges with the guide holes in the bottom crossbar IN and screw in the screws.

5. Place the assembled sawhorses A/B/C vertically and attach the top bar with clamps D, centering it. Drill the counterbores at an angle of 15° (Fig. 1 And 1a, photo C). Then drill mounting and pilot holes in the counterbores in the top bar and top crossbar IN. (To allow the sawhorses to fold, the top bar is attached to only one frame.) Install the screws.

Note. When cutting sheet and slab materials, the cutting depth is usually set to 3 mm greater than the thickness of the material. In this case, the saw blade remains on the object supporting the sheet - the upper blockD - shallow cuts. When designing the trestles, we provided deep counterbores for the screws for fastening the upper beam. This prevents the saw blade from meeting the screw heads, keeping it unharmed. Don't glue the top block - this will allow you to replace it when it gets too many kerfs.

Folding dusty, carpentry sawhorses, 3.0 out of 5 based on 2 ratings

It’s the 21st century, and the world has stopped being surprised by technological innovations. The stores display beautiful and convenient devices for sawing firewood from Sweden, Canada, and the USA, adapted for sawing with an electric or chainsaw. It’s even just nice to see how beautifully they are made: they clamp the log securely, and it’s very convenient to do sawing, and they’re compact, too. However, in life, our people have used various versions of their grandfather’s goats, and continue to use them. Anachronism and stinginess? Partly yes, but the main thing is that “classic” sawhorses are very comfortable and practical. Our ancestors were wise and experienced. Even the emphasis in the word that denotes this device was placed so that in the future there would be no misunderstandings and people would not confuse the term from household use with the name of innocent animals.

Anyone can quickly assemble this structure; the materials for making a sawhorse for cutting firewood are almost always at hand. However, for all the apparent simplicity, you should first draw a drawing or sketch. And it will be easier to work, and you won’t have to correct errors. It is imperative to take into account the height of the person who will cut the wood, and the type of saw with which the wood will be cut - a two-handed or chainsaw.

How to make your own sawhorses for cutting wood with a chainsaw

Cutting wood is more convenient and much easier with a chainsaw. Especially if the logs were brought to you thick and damp. Cut the firewood quickly, the performance with a chainsaw is completely different.

To cut firewood with a chainsaw, you can use sawhorses assembled according to the traditional pattern. But there is one serious inconvenience - the chain saw will definitely jam when you finish the cut. This happens when a cut is made between the posts (the end of the log protruding beyond the edge of the structure can be easily cut by the saw). To prevent pinching, the log must be turned with the saw down. This is additional and quite hard work, especially when you have to move hefty logs alone.

Craftsmen have developed (and perhaps some of them copied “in Chinese”) designs to avoid clamping the saw chain. And they even patented their designs. Such sawhorses for sawing firewood with a chainsaw can be divided into two types. The first includes metal structures in which the short end of the log is clamped with a chain or toothed grip, and the long free end protrudes far beyond the sawhorse. In these trestles, the supporting “heel” is made in such a way that a log cannot disturb their equilibrium position. This design is reminiscent of imported factory-made goats. Ours just look simpler and the documentation for them (protected by a patent!) is orders of magnitude cheaper.

Another patent-protected design for sawing firewood with a chainsaw is wooden:

The advantages of this design include:

  • The ability to cut logs alone, because there is no need to move them while working.
  • There is no danger of the chain becoming pinched.
  • Possibility to adjust the length of the blocks into which the log is cut. When working on such sawhorses, the blocks are the same length.
  • Due to the design features of the sawhorse, sawed off blocks roll in the direction opposite to the sawyer.
  • Compact when folded. In the utility room near the wall they will take up very little space - the thickness in the folded position is only 12 cm.

How to make a sawhorse with your own hands for sawing firewood with a two-handed saw

Anyone who has ever sawed a large number of logs with a two-handed “friendship” saw (that’s right, with a small letter. This is not a brand of saw, but a hint of the friendship of two sawmills), knows well how important it is to correctly select the height of the log on the sawhorse. It is believed that the most comfortable height is from 90 to 110 cm. You don’t need to bend your back too much when bending forward, you don’t have to squat, you work comfortably and quickly. After all, working for a long time in an uncomfortable position the next morning will make you like a rusty iron woodcutter - your back and knees will bend with great difficulty.

Important! Basic requirements for goats: stability and strength. Strength is required due to the large weight of the logs and the lateral, alternating forces applied by the sawyers. These efforts will loosen the goats, so the X-shaped racks (“legs” should be supported by a good beam with a side of at least 100 mm.

In order to make sawhorses for sawing wood, we will need:

  • Beam 100x100 mm, length 1100 mm. It will serve as the basis of the structure. You can also use a flat, dry and not very thick log as a base.
  • Beam 50x50 mm, four sections of 1100 mm each. They will become the “legs” of the goat.
  • Beam 50x50 mm, two pieces of 350 mm each. We will make “horns” from them.
  • Beam 50x50 mm, two pieces of 1100 mm each for tying the “legs”.
  • Self-tapping screws 5x100 mm, about 30 pcs. in total.
  • Impregnation "Bioprotection".

We make cuts on the timber that will serve as the base. We make 12 cuts, two for each groove. We will need 6 grooves, each 25 mm deep, for the “legs” and “horns”.

Important! Try to make cuts slightly narrower than the block. Literally 2 mm. That is, instead of 50 mm, we make cuts of 48 mm. This way the beam will fit into the groove with force, and the entire structure will be stronger.

Using a chisel and hammer, select the grooves along the intended cuts. We forcefully drive the prepared pieces of timber into the grooves: four “legs” and two “horns”. We tighten the screws. Using a hacksaw, we saw off the ends of the timber, which serves as “legs,” at an angle, so that the goats stand firmly and evenly on the ground. The trestle base is assembled.

We make the binding of the “legs”. We attach one end of the beam to the “legs” from the inside, the other - from the outside. Now we are sure that the “legs” will not move apart. We also fix the transverse “leg reinforcements” with self-tapping screws. If the ends of the beam protrude, use a hacksaw to cut them off “flush” with the “legs.” We treat it with bioprotection and you can start cutting firewood.

In addition to the “classic” version of a wooden trestle, you can make metal trestles. This design will be lighter and last longer. They are made from rectangular steel pipe with a side of at least 50 mm. For ease of storage, it is better to secure the crosspieces and trim with bolts rather than welding. When bolted, the structure can be disassembled.

Wooden scaffolding, otherwise known as trestles, for repairs.

If the theater begins with a hanger, then renovation of the premises always begins with the assembly of wooden scaffolding or, as they are also colloquially called, trestles. The reliability of the “goats” determines how safely and quickly you will carry out all the apartment renovation work, as well as the speed of finishing work.

Additionally, of course, you will need a hanger, a wall ladder and a dining table.

In this article I will tell you and show in photographs how and with what tool you need to assemble the “goats” and how much material is needed for this.

When I use the word “goat” in the article, you know that this is a table for temporary use during repairs. It is done by builders and finishers to gain access to the top of the walls or ceiling for repair work. That's why I won't put quotation marks.

For the goat, the material selected is completely dry and light. And, of course, not very expensive. Remember that it will need to be moved frequently and transferred from one place to another.

You also take your choice of instrument. If you are going to twist the parts of the goat with self-tapping screws, then you need a screwdriver, but it is better to have a drill with an attachment (a bit for wood screws).

If you use nails to join parts together, which I certainly don't recommend when assembling sawhorses, then you will need a hammer. To cut wooden parts you need a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw. But I always use a hand-held circular saw.

Well, to mark our future parts of the goat we need a pencil with a tape measure and a square.

The material I always choose is edged pine boards and 55-60 mm wood screws.

To assemble two trestles, we will need 3-meter boards 150 mm wide and 30 mm thick.

The height of the trestles is easy to determine: you need to take a tape measure and measure the distance from the ceiling to the head of the working person and subtract approximately 150-200 mm from this distance.

Well, that is, with an average ceiling height in apartments (2.6 m), the trestle is made approximately 0.9 m high.

So, the first thing we need to do is the main sites of our future goats, where all the work will be carried out. These areas must have enough space for the person who will be working on the sawhorse. You also need a place for a basin with a solution, which weighs approximately 40-50 kg. Accordingly, the platform must be strong and stable; our future goat must withstand a load of at least 150 kg.

In this matter, we always need to take into account the width of the main light doorways, so that we can move our future goat to any room of our apartment. Since light doorways without installed doors are never less than 700 mm, the platform for the trestles must be made 600 mm. The exception is the bathroom premises, where with a door installed with a door leaf width of 600 mm, a goat will not fit through.

But it won’t be needed there, since all types of work at height - plastering the walls, laying tiles on the floor and walls, installing the ceiling, as well as grouting the tile joints will have already been completed, and after installing the door there will be nothing left to do with the trestles .Repair and Construction DIY ladder

We will need only 16 meters of the main whole boards for making shields for a pair of trestles and a shield for a table, that is, 5 whole 3-meter boards and another 1 m of board. We cut all other boards to length with a hand-held circular saw into two halves.

For the main sawhorse boards we take our first four whole 3m boards. Use a tape measure to find the middle of the board and cut them in half. This way we will have the base ready: two main platforms for the trestles, 600 mm wide and 1500 mm long.


Then we need to cut our remaining boards with a hand-held circular saw. From these narrow boards, 30 mm x 75 mm in size and 3000 mm long, obtained during the cutting process, we will make the remaining parts (blanks) for our goat. This is done so that the goat is not so heavy and can be moved by one person.

We saw off 4 blanks of 600 mm each and fasten our four separate boards into a shield.

We screw the crossbars that hold the boards together into a shield with self-tapping screws at a distance of 150 mm from the edge of the boards. We fasten each board with 4 self-tapping screws.

Now we need to make the following: 8 blanks 900 mm long for four pairs of legs of two goats, 4 blanks 650 mm each for the lower steps and 4 blanks 550 mm each for the upper steps.

Let's start assembling our future legs. To do this, we turn the shield over and, laying out our blanks for legs and steps on it, fasten them with self-tapping screws.

The upper part of the goat's legs, which will be attached to the shield, need to be narrowed slightly inside the shield (20-30 mm on each side), and the lower ends of the legs, on the contrary, should be spread 30-40 mm larger than the width of the shield, so that our future goat will be stable on the floor, and then screw our steps onto them. Like this:

In order for all the legs of the goat to be the same, they must be assembled by stacking them on top of each other.

Next, when everything is ready, we proceed to assembling the goat itself: we screw the goat’s legs from the inside to the shield with self-tapping screws, turn our goat over and align it with two 1850 mm long jib bars that we previously prepared, diagonally to the structure. So that they are screwed in relation to the sides of the goat “crosswise”. This is also done for the stability of the structure.

When screwing on the jibs, we also move the bottom of the steps a little to the side and secure them with self-tapping screws.

We complete the bottom frame of the structure in a circular manner with two crossbars of 1600 mm each, and the goat is ready. We twist the entire structure with self-tapping screws so that there are 2 of them per connection. Now you can safely, without fear, start working with it.

Additional information: if the repair is carried out in a room with finished floors, then you need to screw, for example, pieces of linoleum onto the bottom of the legs of the goat so as not to scratch the floors.

(Don’t forget about the obligatory lunch, otherwise, where will the energy come from for work?)

So, we still need to make a table out of the boards so that we can have a proper lunch or just drink tea.

And, of course, a clothes hanger. In addition, you need to purchase plastic film to cover clean clothes.

The “furniture” set to start the renovation is ready!

For rooms with ceiling heights of up to 3.5 meters or more, the trestle is manufactured separately. But this depends on the individuality of the apartment and the layout.

You also need to buy plastic film in order to cover everything that may become dusty and dirty during plastering and finishing work. Having installed the beacons, you can begin the process of plastering the walls.

So, let's summarize. For a complete “furniture set” to start repairs in standard configuration (2 trestles, a table, a hanger, a wall stepladder), we will need:

1. Board – 8 pcs.: 30 mm x 150 mm, length 1500 mm

2. Board – 4 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 600 mm

3. Set of upper steps – 4 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 550 mm

4. Set of lower steps – 4 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 650 mm

5. Set of legs – 8 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 900 mm

6. Bottom trim boards – 4 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 1650 mm

7. Jibs – 4 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 1850 mm

Set for clothes hanger:

1. Board – 5 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 1500 mm

Dining table set:

1. Board – 4 pcs.: 30 mm x 150 mm, length 1000 mm for tabletop

2. Legs – 4 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 600-700 mm

3. Boards – 6 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 750 mm

4. Boards – 2 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 1000 mm for the lower leg straps

5. Jibs – 2 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 1200 mm

Wall ladder:

1. Boards – 2 pcs.: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 1500 mm

2. Boards for steps and upper platform – 8 pcs. : 30 mm x 75 mm long 500 mm

That is, this is approximately 40 meters of edged boards 30 mm x 150 mm x 3000 mm and 0.5 kg of self-tapping screws 55-60 mm. If you cut everything correctly, taking into account the given dimensions, and work a little with a hand-held circular saw at the assembly site, then this amount will be just enough for everything.

For information: in 1 m3 of boards measuring 30 mm x 150 mm x 3000 mm there will be 74.07 pieces, i.e. 222.21 m.

40 m of board measuring 30 mm x 150 mm will be equal to 0.18 m3.

At a material cost of 5000 rubles/m3, a batch of material will cost 900 rubles. + 100 rub. – self-tapping screws. Total: 1000 rubles.

Good luck with the renovation everyone! Congratulations to everyone on the start of the construction season!