How to install a vacuum expansion valve. Installation of an expansion tank for open heating

It’s just the way it is that private homes are almost universally deprived of central heating supplies. But winters are harsh and simply sealing and foaming the cracks in the house will not keep the heat in. Therefore, it is very important to equip your home with your own heating system. However, not everyone knows how to select and install an expansion tank. After all, even when connecting such seemingly mediocre and simple details, there are some nuances.

We will not talk about different types of expansion tanks in this article, since there are only 2 of them: open and closed. The first type, open, can now be found mainly in old houses. And the second type differs from each other only in volume and appearance. Here we will review the closed type of membrane expansion tanks and how exactly they should be installed in a home heating system.

What does “installing the tank for supply” mean? It’s very simple - this is a type of installation of an expansion tank in which a circulation pump pumps pressure out of the expansion tank. That is, the tank is installed on the suction side of the pump. Let's consider below how this will affect the performance of the home heating system as a whole.

After assembling such a heating circuit, in which the pump pumps from the expansion tank, we fill it with water. Let, for example, water be pumped at 1 bar of static pressure. When the pump is turned on, it will begin to create dynamic pressure. This can be easily seen by looking at the readings of the pressure gauges installed in different corners of the system.

And so, the pump is turned on. It creates a pressure of 1.5 atmospheric pressure. The pressure gauge closest to it displays a pressure reading of 1.4 bar. While the liquid in the system reaches subsequent measuring instruments, the pressure drops lower and lower.

When the liquid makes an almost complete circle of circulation through the system and reaches the installed expansion tank, you can see that the dynamic pressure of the heating system will be equal to the static one. And in the area between the pump and the tank, the pressure will drop even lower, reducing the load on the system.

Installation of an expansion tank in the return system

As we have determined, installing an expansion tank on the supply side ensures that the dynamic pressure of the heating system on approach to the tank is equalized with the static pressure. Connecting the tank for processing will give us a completely different picture.

For convenience, imagine that the system looks exactly the same, has the same dimensions and parameters. The only difference is that the tank is installed at the outlet of the pump pressure. This leads to the fact that the pump presses, first of all, inside the expansion tank.

The system is refilled with liquid, which creates a pressure of 1 bar. What happens after turning on the pump? It also creates a pressure of 1.5 bar. The pressure is then redistributed to the expansion tank. At this point, as in the case of installing the tank for supply, the dynamic pressure becomes equal to the static pressure. But after the discharge leaves the expansion tank, when studying the pressure gauge readings, it will be clear that the dynamic pressure of the system is lower than the static one!

However, despite the apparent convenience of the second installation method, if the length of the heating system is incorrectly calculated and filled with static pressure, the pressure may drop lower than atmospheric pressure. This leads to the fact that water begins to boil at lower temperatures, which leads to extremely rapid wear of the pump, due to which its blades are destroyed within a short time.

What to remember when installing an expansion tank

⦁ The membrane tank must be installed in a room heated above 0.

⦁ The tank must be connected in such a way that access to its locking and drainage is not blocked.

⦁ A system in which a pressure reducer is installed after the water meter ensures a constant initial pressure in the tank.

⦁ The expansion tank is installed so that the safety valve is installed in front of the flow fittings.

From this article it becomes clear that the universal way to install an expansion tank is to connect it to the supply, in front of the suction side of the pump. This will always provide the heating system with stable performance and wear resistance, and, consequently, will reduce the cost of energy, time, and money. In this case, the pump works for supply or return - it doesn’t matter.

If the heating system has 2 or more circulation pumps, the expansion tank should be mounted as close as possible to the suction side of all pumps. When the heating system of your room is large, you can install several expansion tanks; when installing, I follow the instructions above - as close as possible to the suction side of the pump.

The heating system, being a complex engineering structure, consists of many elements that have different functional purposes. The expansion tank for heating is one of the most important parts of the heating system circuit.

When the coolant is heated, the pressure in the boiler and the heating system circuit increases significantly due to the temperature increase in the volume of the coolant fluid. Considering that the liquid is a practically incompressible medium and the heating system is sealed, this physical phenomenon can lead to the destruction of the boiler or pipelines. The problem could be solved by installing a simple valve that could release the excess volume of hot coolant into the external environment, if not for one important factor.

When cooling, the liquid contracts and air enters the heating circuit in place of the discharged coolant. Air jams are a headache for any heating system; they make circulation in the network impossible. Therefore it is necessary. Constantly adding new coolant to the system is very expensive; heating cold water is much more expensive than heating the coolant that came into the boiler through the return pipeline.

This problem is solved by installing a so-called expansion tank, which is a reservoir connected to the system by one pipe. Excess pressure in the heating expansion tank is compensated by its volume and allows for stable operation of the circuit. Externally, expansion tanks for the heating system, based on the calculation results and the type of heating circuit, are different in shape and size. Currently, tanks are produced in various shapes, from classic cylindrical tanks to so-called “tablets”.

Types of heating systems

There are two schemes for building heating networks -. An open (gravity) heating system is used in centralized heating networks and allows water to be directly withdrawn for hot water supply needs, which is impossible in private housing construction. Such a device is located at the top point of the heating system circuit. In addition to leveling pressure drops, the heating expansion tank performs the function of natural separation of air from the system, since it has the ability to communicate with the outside atmosphere.

Thus, structurally, such a device is a compensation tank of the heating system, not under pressure. Sometimes a system with gravitational (natural) circulation of a heat-carrying fluid may be mistakenly called open, which is fundamentally incorrect.

With a more modern closed circuit, an expansion tank of a closed-type heating system with a built-in internal membrane is used.

Sometimes such a device can be called a vacuum expansion tank for heating, which is also true. Such a system provides for forced circulation of the coolant; air is removed from the circuit through special taps (valves) installed on the heating devices and at the top of the system pipelines.

Device and principle of operation

A structurally closed expansion tank in a heating system is a cylindrical tank with a rubber membrane installed inside, which divides the internal volume of the vessel into air and liquid chambers.

Membranes are of the following types:

Gas pressure is adjusted individually for each system, which is described in the instructions supplied with devices such as an expansion tank for closed-type heating. Some manufacturers provide the possibility of replacing the membrane in the design of their expansion tanks. This approach slightly increases the initial cost of the device, but subsequently, if the membrane is destroyed or damaged, the cost of replacing it will be lower than the price of a new expansion tank.

From a practical point of view, the shape of the membrane does not in any way affect the operating efficiency of the devices; it should only be noted that a closed-type balloon expansion tank for heating holds a slightly larger volume of heat-carrying liquid.

The principle of their operation is also the same - when the water pressure in the network increases due to expansion when heated, the membrane stretches, compressing the gas on the other side and allows excess coolant to enter the tank. When it cools down and, accordingly, the pressure in the network drops, the process occurs in the reverse order. Thus, regulation of constant pressure in the network occurs automatically.

It is necessary to focus on the fact that if you buy an expansion tank for the heating system at random, without the necessary calculations, then it will be very difficult to achieve stable operation of the heating network. If the tank size is significantly larger than necessary, the pressure required for the system will not be created. If the tank is smaller than the required size, it will not be able to accommodate the excess volume of heat-carrying liquid, which may result in an emergency situation.

Calculation of expansion tanks

To calculate an expansion tank for closed-type heating, you first need to calculate the total volume of the system, consisting of the volumes of the circuit pipelines, heating boiler and heating appliances. The volumes of the boiler and heating radiators are indicated in their passports, and the volume of pipelines is determined by multiplying the internal cross-sectional area of ​​the pipes by their length. If the system contains pipelines of different diameters, then their volumes should be determined separately and then added together.

Further calculations for devices such as an expansion tank for closed-type heating are carried out using the formula V = (Vc x k) / D, where:

Vс – volume of heat-carrying fluid in the heating system,
k – coefficient volumetric thermal expansion, taken for water 4%, for 10% ethylene glycol - 4.4%, for 20% ethylene glycol - 4.8%;
D is an indicator of the efficiency of the membrane unit. It is usually indicated by the manufacturer or can be determined by the formula: D = (Рм – Рн) / (Рм +1), where:

Рм – the maximum possible pressure in the heating network, usually it is equal to the maximum operating pressure of the safety valve (for private houses it rarely exceeds 2.5 - 3 atm.)
Рн – initial pumping pressure of the air chamber of the expansion tank, taken as 0.5 atm. for every 5 meters of height of the heating system circuit.

In any case, it should be assumed that expansion tanks for heating should provide an increase in the volume of coolant in the network within 10%, that is, if the volume of coolant in the system is 500 liters, the volume together with the tank should be 550 liters. Accordingly, an expansion tank of the heating system with a volume of at least 50 liters is required. This method of determining volume is very approximate and can result in unnecessary costs for purchasing a larger expansion tank.

Currently, online calculators for calculating expansion tanks have appeared on the Internet. If such services are used to select equipment, it is necessary to carry out calculations on at least three sites to determine how correct the calculation algorithm of a particular Internet calculator is.

Manufacturers and prices

Currently, the problem of buying an expansion tank for heating lies only in the correct selection of the type and volume of the device, as well as the financial capabilities of the buyer. The market offers a wide selection of instrument models from both domestic and foreign manufacturers. However, it should be noted that if the purchase price for such devices as a closed-type expansion tank for heating is much lower than that of its main competitors, then it is better to refuse such a purchase.

The low cost indicates the unreliability of the manufacturer and the low quality of the materials used in its manufacture. Often these are products from China. As with all other goods, the price for a high-quality expansion tank for heating will not have a significant difference of about two to three times. Conscientious manufacturers use approximately the same materials, and the difference in price of models with similar parameters of about 10-15% is determined only by the location of production and the pricing policy of sellers.

Domestic manufacturers have proven themselves well in this market segment. By installing modern technological lines in their production, they achieved the production of products whose parameters are not inferior to the best global brands at a lower cost.

It should be borne in mind that it is important not only to buy an expansion tank for closed-type heating, but also to install it correctly.

Having the necessary skills and following the instructions, you can install it yourself. If the technician still has any doubts about his knowledge, then it is best to turn to professionals to guarantee stable operation of the heating network and eliminate possible malfunctions.

1.Types of expansion tanks
2. Features of installation of expansion tanks
3. Mistakes made when installing an expansion tank

Today, it is possible to install a heating system in a private home in the shortest possible time.

The main thing that is necessary for this is sufficient financial capabilities of the property owner, and then the plan will be implemented, since the domestic building materials market offers a wide selection of heating equipment and components.

One of the main points of creating a system is the installation of an expansion tank in the heating system.

The performance of the heating network of a private home largely depends on it.

Types of expansion tanks

The place where the expansion tank of the heating system, such as in the photo, should be installed is determined based on the type of structure, which can be:

• open;
• closed.

It should be noted that heating systems made of an open type are installed extremely rarely today.

They are found in buildings built about several decades ago. The expansion tank, which is designed as an open type, has the appearance of a container with an open upper part and a threaded connection at the bottom, at the bottom. It is used to connect an open type expansion tank for heating. The tank of such an outdated model is located at the highest point in the system.

In a closed-type heating structure, an expansion device is used, the installation and further operation of which has its own characteristics and differences.

The tank is made in the form of a sealed capsule having two chambers, separated from each other by a rubber membrane. Therefore, the product is also called a membrane expansion tank for the heating system.

The installation of a closed expansion tank is allowed anywhere in the heating network, with the exception of inserting a container after the circulation pump in the immediate vicinity of it.

Otherwise, pressure surges throughout the system are possible.
The operating principle of a closed tank is simple. After the coolant has heated up and increased in volume, its excess fills the empty space in the membrane device. As a result, the pressure in the system continues to remain at an acceptable level (read: “Selecting an expansion tank for heating”).

Installation of an expansion tank in a heating system is carried out taking into account some points:

• installation of the device is allowed in a room where the temperature does not fall below zero;
• easy access to the air valve should be provided in order to regulate the pressure in the air part of the tank if necessary;
• when the installation of the device is completed, there must be access to the shut-off equipment, drain tap and nameplate;
• it is impossible to allow the application of a static load to the membrane tank (pressure from pipes and other devices);
• if the reducer is located after the water meter, this measure will allow maintaining a constant initial pressure in the membrane tank.

  When the safety valve is activated, the pressure should not exceed the level of the maximum permissible operating pressure in the tank (read: “Safety valve for heating - what are they, how to use it correctly”);

• The expansion tank for heating is mounted in such a way that the safety valve is located up to the flow fittings in the direction of flow of the coolant.

A heating scheme with an expansion tank always provides that it is installed only on the side from which cold water is supplied to the heating boiler.

Installation of the device at the exit is prohibited.

Mistakes made when installing an expansion tank

Many property owners try to carry out many of the work on arranging the heating system themselves, including installing an expansion tank with their own hands.

At first glance, it seems that there will be no problems with such work, but in reality it has certain difficulties, which is well known to specialists.

The most common mistakes made when installing an expansion tank in a heating network occur for a number of reasons:

• lack of a complete set of necessary tools or their poor quality.

  When performing work, they often use wrenches - universal (gas) and adjustable.

  In addition to them, a special wrench is also required, which is necessary when installing a metal-plastic pipeline, and a stepped wrench for detachable connections;

• use for compacting materials that are not intended for these purposes. For example, instead of high-quality sealant, they use cheap products for windows made of polyvinyl chloride, which are intended for a different temperature regime.

  The first time after application, the connections look attractive, but after commissioning the heating structure, this type of sealant cannot withstand the load and high operating temperatures.

  Expansion tank for heating - installation diagram in open and closed systems

  It’s good if a leak is discovered as a result, but often the consequences are more serious;

• the installation of the expansion tank in the heating system was carried out in a hard-to-reach place and access is almost impossible;
• The volume that the expansion tank should have was calculated incorrectly, or the device was purchased at random.

It should be noted that the installation and fastening of the heating expansion tank must be carried out in accordance with accepted standards and regulations that ensure safe operation.

Before installation, you must correctly determine the installation location of the device.

After completing the installation of the expansion membrane tank on your own, everything seems to look great, and the inaccuracies made during this process are invisible. The shortcomings will become obvious after the heating season has started, and the main thing is that this will happen at the most inopportune moment.

For example, it’s freezing outside and the heating system is out of order.
Watch a video on installing an expansion tank in a heating system:

In order to avoid problems in the future, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations from the manufacturer for installing such an element of the heating supply system as an expansion tank.

This information will help you avoid unnecessary expenses: time, physical and financial.

One of the key elements of the cooling system in a modern car is the expansion tank. This is a kind of reserve reservoir for additional fluid during system operation.

I'm thinking about the value of the reservoir, which looks for faults in the thermostat or the radiator itself.

However, problems with the expansion vessel are often caused by air overload in the cooling system, which leaves the car without heat during the cold season.

An alarming symptom for a car owner is regular engine overheating. It's important to check the status of this part, but first you need to know exactly how the device works.

What is the purpose of a expansion vessel and how does it work?

The urgent need for such a reservoir was created when, instead of cooling water, a special liquid was used that was able to retain its physical properties even at extremely low temperatures.

The basis of these solutions is alcohol and ethylene glycol (less commonly propylene glycol).

As it heats up, the alcohol expands and begins to leak through the radiator fan valve under pressure. During the ICE cooling process, the temperature of the antifreeze or antifreeze is reduced due to the formation of an emptied void.

How to fill a heating expansion vessel?

The spaces are filled with air, which, with the subsequent activation of the engine, creates plugs that prevent the free passage of liquid into the cooling system. This can lead to general engine overheating.

To avoid overheating problems, an expansion vessel was supported, which was connected to the radiator by a pipe. The center of the reservoir is level with the top of the radiator, so that the heated liquid rises up and freely penetrates from the radiator space into the reservoir.

The hose itself is attached to the bottom of the product, allowing excess antifreeze or antifreeze to flow back to the radiator during cooling without drawing air.

Where is the expansion tank

Depending on the model, the reservoirs are located in the most suitable areas of the cooling system.

A container is needed next to the radiator.

The material for making the container is durable and transparent plastic. In one part of the product there are always scale marks that allow you to monitor the level of antifreeze in the system. The last mark below shows the minimum fluid level.

The maximum amount of wind chill antifreeze should be just over 30mm above the top risk level on the tank scale.

Main problems and malfunction of the expansion vessel

Most often, car owners complain about a problem such as a leaking expansion vessel.

This may be due to a violation of the integrity of the tank (for example, after an unsuccessful parking or other collision), as well as to violations of the pipeline that connect the drain tank and the radiator.

The strong pressure in the container is emptied using a special release valve on the container lid. It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the cover, remove it from the scale and corrosion, otherwise the valve and the entire system will quickly work.

A fault in the expansion vessel causes a large drop in fluid in the engine cooling system, which has a very negative effect on its operation.

Installation of an expansion tank for closed heating

Installing an expansion tank for closed-type heating allows you to equip a heat supply system in a private house in the shortest possible time.

The main thing in this matter is that there is enough finance to implement the idea. Today, the Russian building materials market presents a large assortment of heating equipment, as well as components for heat supply schemes.

When arranging a heating system, the installation of a closed heating expansion tank is considered very important.

The functionality of the entire heating network of the home will depend on this detail in the future.

Types of expansion tanks

Elements to prevent air leaks into the line come in different designs.

Based on this, specific installation of the expansion tank of the heating system is carried out. There are closed and open heat supply schemes.

Installing an expansion tank in an open heating system is rarely used.

As a rule, it is typical for buildings of the Soviet period. An expansion tank, the design of which is made according to this type, is a container with an open top and a threaded connection in the lower part, at the bottom. Using such a connector, an open type element is connected to the heating circuit. The installation diagram for an open expansion tank for heating provides that it must be located at the highest point of the system.

The closed-type heating structure has a special structure, so the installation of an expansion tank for closed-type heating has its own characteristics.

The container is made as a sealed capsule, which has two chambers separated by a rubber membrane. Therefore, this design is also called a membrane tank of a heating system. This part is used anywhere in the heating system except for the place behind the circulation pump, as well as directly next to it.

Failure to comply with this precaution may result in pressure drops within the system.

The installation diagram of an expansion tank in a closed-type heating system is simple.

The heated coolant expands, its excess squeezes air out of the membrane device, and the system pressure remains unchanged.

Features of installation of expansion tanks

The installation of a vacuum heating expansion tank must take into account certain aspects:

• installation of the structure is carried out in a room with a positive temperature;
• it is necessary to provide free access to the air valve to adjust the pressure if necessary;
• upon completion of the tank installation, access to the drain valve and shut-off equipment is left free;
• The installation diagram of a membrane expansion tank for heating is carried out so that the safety valve is located before the flow fittings.

In order to correctly install the expansion tank in the heating system, you will need the following tools:

• adjustable and stepped wrench;
• wrench for installing PVC pipes.

First you should do the preparatory stage, which includes disconnecting the boiler from the gas, electricity or water supply.

Then turn off the tap, which is responsible for the circulation of the coolant, and it is drained from the system.

Step-by-step steps for installing an expansion tank in a closed heating system:

Why do you need an expansion tank for a closed heating system?

Install a drain and shut-off valve on the supply pipe to drain and shut off the water.

2. Using screws, connect the expansion tank to the system.

If the options for installing an expansion tank in the heating system require the presence of polypropylene pipes, a soldering apparatus, fittings, couplings and angles should be used.

Before installing the fitting, it is necessary to wrap linen tape around the threads and apply sealing paste.

4. After draining the water from the system, cut the pipe with scissors and install a tee.

Before putting the system into operation, be sure to blow out the coarse filter.

Be sure to check the operating pressure using a pump.

7. After connecting the expansion tank to the network, turn on all coolant supply taps and turn on the boiler.

It is advisable to install a safety valve, which comes with the container; if it is not available, it costs to buy it separately.

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In order to compensate for the thermal expansion of the coolant, open or closed tanks are installed in the heating system. They come with natural and forced circulation. The volume of liquid tends to change as the coolant expands and contracts during operation.

To stabilize the pressure on the internal walls of the elements in the heating system, as well as to compensate for changes in the volume of liquid, expansion tanks are used.

Types of tanks
2. Open type expansion tank
2.1 Advantages and disadvantages
2.2 How an open tank works. Installation Rules
3. Closed expansion tank
3.1 Membraneless tanks
3.2 Membrane tanks
3.3 Advantages and disadvantages of a membrane tank
3.4 How to choose a membrane tank
3.5 Installation of closed expanders

Types of tanks

There are two types of expansion tank:

1. Open type expansion tank.
2. Closed expansion tank.

When the temperature of the liquid in the pipeline decreases and for its natural return, an open tank is installed at the highest point of the heating system.

A tank of this type is a volumetric container that communicates with the atmosphere.

A closed-type expansion tank has the form of a sealed vessel, which is filled one half with liquid, and the other half with gas or air, which is under pressure.

After heating, the liquid moves into the expansion chamber, and the gas is compressed at this time. The liquid returns back after cooling, and the resulting difference in volume is filled with gas.

Open type expansion tank

Let's take a closer look at all the features of an open tank. The tank is used when there is a small leak to replenish water. And also for taking air from the system.

Such a tank can be cylindrical or rectangular and is usually made of steel or polymer materials.

Since the expansion chamber is installed at the top, the heating pipelines must be long. To service this device, as well as to clean it from dirt, there is a lid on top of the tank.

You can install an open-type expansion tank in a special room on the roof of the house, a staircase or in the attic.

If your house has high ceilings, then such a tank will fit well in a bathroom or utility room. indoors. If containers extend beyond the heated premises, they should be insulated to avoid heat loss.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of open tanks:

1. Relieves pressure and removes air from the heating system.
2. Low cost of the device.

Disadvantages include:

1. Large heat losses and the need to insulate some elements.
2. Before installation, it is necessary to arrange additional heating pipelines.
3. Since the system evaporates a certain amount of coolant, it needs to be replenished periodically.
4. Possibility of corrosion of steel elements due to contact with the atmosphere.

Due to the shortcomings of this equipment, it is used less and less, giving preference to closed tanks.

How does an open tank work?

Installation Rules

To prevent water from stagnating in the tank, it is necessary to arrange circulation. A circuit is installed between the tank and the pipeline. It should consist of a circulation and expansion pipe. The opening of the circulation pipe must be located 0.5 cm below the expansion pipe.

Due to circulation from the heating system, air bubbles are released into the atmosphere. This system is suitable for forced circulation. If the system is equipped with natural circulation, then it is necessary to connect an expander at the top of the supply pipeline.

Closed expansion tank

A closed tank has the appearance of a sealed vessel made of steel. Part of the tank is filled with inert gas, and the second part is filled with liquid. There are two types of closed expansion tank: membrane and membraneless.

Membraneless tanks

In such tanks there is no internal separation of space, so the coolant is in direct contact with the gas.

A gas cylinder or compressor is installed outside to maintain pressure inside the tank. Gas supply and pressure control occur automatically.

Membrane tanks

Membrane tanks are more popular because they are separated using a flexible membrane. Therefore, gas and liquid do not come into contact.

There are tanks with a disc-shaped membrane and with a pear-shaped (balloon) membrane.

The first membrane is attached in the middle of the tank and looks like a hemisphere.

It can become concave or convex depending on changes in water temperature.

The second membrane is similar to a vessel and is attached to different ends of the container. There is gas between the membrane and metal walls, so the coolant does not come into contact with the walls of the tank. Consequently, such a tank is protected from corrosion and has a long service life.

The membrane in this tank can be replaced. Expanders are produced with butyl and ethylene propylene membranes. They are highly durable.

Advantages and disadvantages of a membrane tank

Advantages of a membrane tank:

• It is not necessary to install thermal insulation;
• Heat loss is minimal;
• Works at high pressure;
• Small sizes;
• The tank can be installed almost anywhere;
• The tank is well protected from corrosion, as it does not come into direct contact with the atmosphere.

The disadvantages include:

• Periodic pumping of air or gas;
• Great cost;
• The pressure in the system must be controlled.

How to choose a membrane tank

Membrane tanks come in oval shapes and flat ones with a diaphragm.

The second option is more compact; it can be installed between the wall and the interior decoration. This way you will save space in your home. The main parameters of such a tank are the required volume of liquid. It is pre-calculated.

The service life of the tank depends on the quality and parameters of the membrane.

Main characteristics of the membrane:

1. The material from which the membrane is made.
2. Operating temperatures and pressure.
3. Diffusion stability.

Tanks that are used for heating are painted red, and those that are used for the water supply system are painted blue.

Installation of closed expanders

If the tank is a closed type with forced circulation, then it is recommended to install it in front of the circulation pump.

Installation can be done in any position, but the best option would be the top liquid supply. Since air bubbles will be removed naturally. The tank will work even if the membrane is damaged.

Some heating devices already have an expansion tank built-in, in which case there is no need to install an additional one.

Do-it-yourself installation and installation of an expansion tank in a heating system

If you decide to change the water to another coolant, you may have to replace a tank with a higher volume. But you can also install an additional expander.

When installing a closed tank with natural circulation, it is necessary to install an automatic float valve. It is installed at the top of the system to vent air when the system is full. If, while using the tank, you notice that its volume is not enough for you, instead of buying a new one, it will be more profitable to install an additional tank of the required size.

Read in the article

What kind of water is best to pour into the heating system?

There are several types of water poured into the heating circuit:

• Tap water. This also includes liquid taken from a well, a well or a nearby body of water. The main advantage of this option is its low cost. However, the quality of such a coolant is quite low: it has a rather aggressive effect on the internal walls of the circuit due to the salts and oxygen dissolved in it.

• Boiled. Boiling allows you to remove some of the oxygen and salts that precipitate from the water. However, preparing water for a volumetric circuit in this way is quite difficult.

• Purified by reagents. To neutralize harmful impurities, instead of boiling, it is convenient to use special chemicals - reagents. Water prepared in this way needs to be carefully filtered before being poured into the system.

• Distilled. It is sold in plumbing stores in containers of various sizes. Rainwater also has similar properties, which some owners of private houses specially collect for subsequent use in heating networks.

• Antifreeze. They are used instead of water in cases where the heating system is prone to freezing (the crystallization temperature of antifreeze is much lower than that of water). This method of filling the heating circuit is used quite rarely due to its high cost.

Antifreeze for heating

Conclusion

Filling the heating circuit with water is a rather complex and time-consuming procedure, which is recommended to be performed by at least two people

During its implementation, it is important not to rush, carefully following all recommendations. The preparation of water for pouring into the circuit deserves special attention: in cases where, for financial or other reasons, liquid from the water supply is used, it must at least be boiled

To remove sediment and rust particles that gradually accumulate in the coolant, it is recommended to equip the system with special mud filters

The preparation of water for pouring into the circuit deserves special attention: in cases where, for financial or other reasons, liquid from the water supply is used, it must at least be boiled. To remove sediment and rust particles that gradually accumulate in the coolant, it is recommended to equip the system with special mud filters

How to add water to heating: instructions for closed and open systems
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Filling a closed heating system with tap water

You can simply fill the heating system with water - from make-up tap.

For convenience, there is a pressure gauge on the specialized refill tap - to determine the pressure to which water needs to be added, and there is also a filter - so that dirt particles do not penetrate into the heating system.

First you need to open this tap and pump water into the system to 1.5 bar. After this, you need to go to all the batteries and bleed the air from Mayevsky’s taps. After bleeding air from the batteries, the pressure in the system will drop. After the air has been bled from the last radiator, we again pump up the pressure from the water supply to 1.5 atmospheres. After this, we bleed out all the air again. If from crane Mayevsky Water poured onto the radiator, which means it is completely full and there is no need to open it again.

After the first floor, air is bleed from the radiators on the second and subsequent floors (if any).

But even after releasing air from the topmost radiator, that’s not all. There are still air bubbles, various foams, etc. remaining somewhere in the system. Over time, this air again accumulates in the radiators. So after a day of operation of the heating system, it is necessary to bleed all the air from the heating system again through the Mayevsky taps. To prevent antifreeze foam from forming, you need to choose the right circulation pump and set it to the desired speed! The circulation pump should not be overpowered to avoid cavitation and foaming.

After the last bleed of air from all batteries, it is necessary to create the optimal pressure in the system

IMPORTANT - do not pump air into the expansion tank with a car pump. Initially, the tank contains dried nitrogen.

Nitrogen is essentially an inert gas and does not interact with anything. Therefore, the internal part is preserved from corrosion. But if you pump air into the system, this will cause the formation of condensation inside and gradual corrosion.

HOW TO CORRECTLY CREATE THE NECESSARY PRESSURE. To do this, after all the air has been removed from the system, open the make-up valve and run water into the system. When the pressure reaches 1.5 bar (or more, depending on the number of floors of the entire system), we turn it off. At this time, the water will compress the nitrogen in the expansion tank and it will operate in the correct mode.

How to fill water from below

Let's turn to the lowest point of our heating system. At this point there should be a tap to drain water from the system. If this tap is not at the lowest point, we will not be able to drain the water completely and something will definitely remain. So most likely this point will be even lower than the boiler. About there, next to it, in the immediate vicinity of this tap, there should be a pipe for filling the heating. At the end of this pipe there is a check valve. It lets water into the system, but does not let it out. All we have to do is connect the outlet of the water supply with a tap to this valve. When you open the tap, water from the water supply rushes into the system. The pressure developed by the water supply must be greater than or equal to the maximum permissible pressure in our heating system. For a two-story house with a boiler in the basement, one to one and a half atmospheres is often enough.

Heating system inlet assembly (ver. 1)
This is the first version of the node. Lots of temporary details. To connect to the water supply, a flexible connection in the form of a garden hose is used. There came a time when I thought that this node could be the cause of severe flooding.

Intake valve assembly
This is the latest version of the node. Everything here is done firmly and intelligently. There are no steel parts at all, the flexible hose has been replaced with a stationary one.

The principle of filling heating from below is that we do not form an air cushion under a layer of water. All our air accumulates at the highest point of the system, and we back it up with water. Well, in radiators, of course, because as I already said, each radiator is an air trap.

Strategy No. 1 (fast)

We can immediately open the Mayevsky tap at the highest point. We can unscrew (open) all the valves! Only under each unscrewed valve you need to place a wide trough into which the water will drain when the system is full. The hole in the valve is very small. It's only a millimeter, so a lot of water won't leak. Especially if you quickly run around the house with a screwdriver.

In short, the valves were unscrewed, the water tap was quietly (but not too quietly) opened, and the system began to fill. Then we have a whole range of options. We can open the water slightly, go to the radiator that should fill first, and wait there until water flows from the valve. Has it leaked? We twist it and move on to the next valve. So we gradually go around all the valves and tighten them. After this, the system is considered flooded and can be turned on. If the house is not too large, then you can fill the entire system in half an hour. Long live modern heating system designs! But it’s better to implement this strategy with an assistant who understands the issue and won’t spoil anything (his wife won’t do it). The fact is that it may well turn out that water enters the system too quickly and you either do not have time to tighten all the valves, or the pressure will increase too much. Then you will want to shut off the water supply. To do this, there must be someone who will do this quickly and without additional questions and save the entire event.

Strategy No. 2 (long)

We don't have enough wide containers to fit under each valve. Then we don't unscrew the valves. We fill in water until the pressure on our pressure gauge rises to the maximum (usually 1.5 atmospheres). After that, we go to the first valve with a mug and a screwdriver and release all the air. The pressure will drop. We go down and again apply pressure to the maximum. And we repeat this until water flows out of our valve. After that, we go to the next valve and repeat everything. With this strategy, you can fill the water in 2 hours. But don’t spill a single drop! And, by the way, work alone.

A good idea would be to stand your wife at the tap and tell her to maintain the pressure. That is, so that the arrow is “here”. My wife does an excellent job with this matter. She even likes it, it seems.

Strategy No. 3 (intermediate)

Personally, my heating system has a storage boiler. There is quite a lot of water in it. 60 liters. And panel radiators. They hold very little water. And my pipes are thin. That is, the main water is in my boiler. I have a circulation pump at the boiler outlet. There is a valve on the pump to bleed air. I unscrew this valve and fill the entire boiler. As soon as water flows from the motor (from its valve), I begin to act on strategy No. 2. And I fill my system in about an hour and a half.

Choosing what coolant to fill into your home system

Before pouring new liquid into a closed heating system, you must select a coolant. There are only 3 options:

1. Water.

1. Distilled water.

1. Synthetic carrier.

Antifreeze for home systems

Important! Water can be used in any home heating systems if part of the circuit is not in contact with cold outside air. If the boiler room is outside the house, the pipes are laid in the ground without thermal insulation, you need to use non-freezing liquids - when the boiler is turned off, frozen water will lead to cracking of the pipes

Is it possible to fill the system with tap water?

Don't try to save money by adding tap water to your new system. Tap water is “enriched” not only with chlorine, which, when heated, negatively affects the surfaces it comes into contact with. Under the influence of temperatures, which can reach 60–80°C, plaque begins to form on the inner walls of pipes, connectors, and radiators. The deposits are reminiscent of scale inside an electric kettle with the same consequences: solid deposits eventually block the internal gaps. As a result, some radiators may remain cold even at high media temperatures.

Deposits in the pipe when using tap water

In addition to problems with water scale, which forms a layer of plaque on the walls of pipes, the use of ordinary tap water can provoke problems that arise due to chemical reactions that occur in the medium when heated. Aggressive impurities have a detrimental effect on the condition of the coating inside radiators, corrode seals, and accelerate corrosion processes.

Conclusion - with a small volume of liquid there is no point in saving. It is better to fill a closed heating system with distilled water.

Distilled water with surfactants and heating additives

Advantages:

• Low cost.

• Reduced viscosity, good fluidity.

• No impurities.

• No chlorine.

• Increased boiling point.

Distillate as a coolant has a beneficial effect on the operation of the entire system: purified water warms up faster, the load on pumping equipment is reduced, there is no risk of clogging inside the pipes or the appearance of deposits on the internal walls.

Synthetic coolants: application features

Ready-made solutions and concentrates based on:

• Propylene glycol.

• Ethylene glycol.

• Glycerin.

Concentrate for home use

Despite the imperfect performance qualities of ethylene glycol, it is better not to pour solutions based on it into the home heating network - the substance is dangerous to health.

When purchasing, you should focus not on the price, but on the degree of concentration of the active substance. Different brands of coolant are diluted in a certain proportion. Before preparing the solution, be sure to read the instructions for diluting the composition.

Synthetic media degrade over time, so before throwing away the concentrate canister, find information about the expiration date and make a mark near the boiler or inlet pipe with a marker so you don’t forget to replace the coolant on time.

Selecting pressure values ​​in the system and expansion tank

The higher the operating pressure of the coolant, the less likely it is that air will enter the system. It is necessary to remember that the operating pressure is limited to the maximum permissible value for the heating boiler. If, when filling the system, a static pressure of 1.5 atm (15 m of water column) was reached, then the circulation pump with a pressure of 6 m of water. Art. will create a pressure of 15 + 6 = 21 m of water column at the entrance to the boiler.

Some types of boilers have a working pressure of about 2 atm = 20 m water column. Be careful not to overload the boiler heat exchanger with unacceptably high coolant pressure!

The membrane expansion tank is supplied with a factory set pressure of inert gas (nitrogen) in the gas cavity. Its common value is 1.5 atm (or bar, which is almost the same). This level can be raised by pumping air into the gas cavity with a hand pump.

Initially, the internal volume of the tank is completely occupied by nitrogen, the membrane is pressed against the body by the gas. That is why closed systems are usually filled to a pressure level of no higher than 1.5 atm (maximum 1.6 atm). Then, by installing the expansion tank on the “return” in front of the circulation pump, we will not get a change in its internal volume - the membrane will remain motionless. Heating the coolant will lead to an increase in its pressure, the membrane will move away from the tank body and compress the nitrogen. The gas pressure will increase, balancing the coolant pressure at a new static level.

Pressure levels in the expansion tank.

Filling the system to a pressure of 2 atm will allow the cold coolant to immediately press the membrane, which will also compress the nitrogen to a pressure of 2 atm. Heating water from 0 °C to 100 °C increases its volume by 4.33%. The additional volume of liquid must enter the expansion tank. The large volume of coolant in the system gives a large increase in its growth when heated. Too much initial pressure of the cold coolant will immediately use up the capacity of the expansion tank; it will not be enough to receive excess heated water (antifreeze)

Therefore, it is important to fill the system to the correctly determined coolant pressure level. When filling the system with antifreeze, you need to remember that its coefficient of thermal expansion is greater than that of water, which requires the installation of a larger capacity expansion tank

Conclusion

Filling closed heating systems is not just a standard final step before commissioning. Correct or incorrect execution of this step can seriously affect the performance of the system, in the worst case, even destroy it. Compliance with filling technology is the key to obtaining stable heating.

How to implement alternative heating for a private home

Two-pipe heating system for a private house - classification, types and practical design skills

Single-pipe and two-pipe heating distribution in a private house

Collector heating system for a private house - advantages and disadvantages

Open system

Autonomous heating can operate according to two fundamentally different schemes:

Image	Description
	Open system: operates with a pressure equal to the height of the water column between the lower and upper points of the circuit. It communicates with the atmosphere through an open expansion tank.
	Closed system: operates with an excess pressure of 1.5-2.5 atmospheres. It is equipped with a membrane expansion tank that compensates for the increase in coolant volume when it is heated.

A peculiarity of the installation of an open heating system is that its bottlings (supply and return) are laid with a constant slope from the open expansion tank at the top point of the circuit.

This pipe layout has two practical consequences:

1. Pour water into the system can be done directly through the expansion tank(in buckets or through a water supply tap located in the attic);

The open tank device allows you to fill the heating circuit using buckets or any other container.

1. All the air will be forced out there, remaining in the circuit at the time of its filling.

How to run such a system with your own hands? It’s as easy as shelling pears: fill the circuit and light the boiler. If the circuit is designed to operate with natural circulation, circulation will begin immediately after the boiler heat exchanger warms up. In a system with a pump, you must additionally turn on its power.

Starting an open heating system

It is easier to fill an open heating system. No special tools needed. It is enough to determine the upper point of water in the expansion tank. You will need an assistant to monitor the air valves.

Feeding an open system

Work rules

The liquid is drained through the drain pipe located at the lowest point. If necessary, the circuit is flushed. Filling the system is performed in the following sequence:

• Shut off the drain valve.

• Open the air bleed valves.

• Distillate is slowly poured into the expansion tank.

Tank for open type heating

Continue to fill the system with short breaks so that the air rises evenly to the surface. Filling is carried out until liquid begins to flow out of the air valves. The valves close.

Add water to the expansion tank up to the mark. Do not fill the expander completely. When heated, the volume of liquid increases, and water will begin to pour out over the edges of the tank. The maximum coolant level is 2/3 of the internal volume of the tank.

System check and maintenance

After completing the work, bleed the air from the radiators. Each air valve is checked in turn. Add the required amount of water to the tank.

Bleeding air

When operating an open system, it is necessary to remember that the warm medium is constantly in contact with air and, accordingly, evaporates. Therefore, it is worth periodically looking into the expansion tank. If the level drops, you just need to add enough water.

Before checking, be sure to turn off the boiler and wait until the water cools to room temperature. Do not add media to hot water. Use liquid with a temperature of up to 40°.

Filling the heating system with antifreeze

Before pouring antifreeze into the heating system with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate how much liquid will be needed and how much to buy. To carry out calculations, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the entire heating system.

There are special tables that allow you to accurately calculate how much antifreeze needs to be poured before initial use or replace one antifreeze liquid with another, based on calculations made per linear meter of pipe. Using such calculations and knowing the diameter of the pipes, you can calculate how much coolant is required per 10 m of the system. It remains to be clarified how much antifreeze needs to be added to fill the battery section. By adding up all the data, you can get the total volume of antifreeze required to fill the system. There is no single formula - filling depends on the diameter of the pipes and the volume of the radiators.

In most cases, the container in which the thermal fluid is sold contains information about the antifreeze sold and its density. Such data allows you to calculate how much water needs to be added to the liquid, which will serve as a heat carrier.

To refill the antifreeze with your own hands, you need to have a pump or special equipment that allows you to carry out the procedures of purging and flushing from used residues. For filling work you will need: a screwdriver, pliers, an adjustable wrench, hoses for pumping coolant, fixing clamps and sealing tape.

Injection of a closed or open type system consists of the following steps:

1. Before pumping in a new antifreeze liquid intended for replacement, you need to drain the entire amount of used liquid or water through a special pipe by opening the drain valve. If the liquid does not drain on its own, it is removed using a circulation pump;
2. If the coolant is replaced with another (with the exception of glycerin liquids), preliminary flushing of the system is necessary;
3. Next, new antifreeze is added using a hose and a circulation pump. Two hoses are used for the injection procedure. The first hose is secured to the drain pipe and the pump outlet, securing the ends with clamps. The second hose is used to supply antifreeze from the container to the pump;
4. After the hoses are installed, the pump is turned on, which takes the coolant from the tank and fills the heating system with it. When pouring antifreeze into the system, it is necessary to ensure that the end of the hose lowered into the canister is below the liquid level; this is necessary to prevent air along with the liquid from entering the system during the intake of antifreeze. The air that gets in with the liquid forms plugs that will interfere with the operation of the heating;
5. For unhindered injection of coolant, the “Mayevsky valve” or a special plug is opened, which will allow air to freely exit when filling the cavities with liquid. After the antifreeze being poured begins to flow out of the plug in a thin stream, filling stops and the plug is closed.

Filling with antifreeze yourself is not a difficult task. When starting work on pumping coolant, you need to decide on the choice of coolant, how much of it is needed, and have the equipment necessary for the work - a pump and tools.

Filling the heating system with antifreeze video

Perhaps not everyone knows that antifreeze is used quite successfully as a coolant in heating systems. Several types of antifreeze coolant are known. And they differ in their composition. If we don’t go into details, but briefly characterize them, we can say that the basis of any antifreeze is a saline/alcohol solution, as well as propylene glycol/ethylene glycol. Corrective components are special additives. Antifreezes containing glycerin are popular. Non-freezing liquids, due to their contents, each have their own specifics, so before deciding on what to choose, you should more or less carefully study the topic, which will be helped by our video materials offered to readers below.

Choosing a coolant

Self-installation of a radiator heating system

When does it make sense to use antifreeze coolant fluids in a heating system?

Precaution and safety precautions

Don't forget about the nuances

Glycerin-based antifreeze is considered an environmentally friendly product. It contains special additives that give it anti-corrosion and anti-foam properties.

We should not forget about the nuances, especially regarding security issues. I suggest watching a short but rather instructive video on this topic.

teplolivam.ru

Types of heating systems in private houses

Residents of apartment buildings do not have to start the heating system themselves. Before starting repairs, specialists will warn all neighbors about the work and drain the liquid from the entire riser. The filling will also be carried out by services that maintain communications.

Heating system diagram

In a private house, heating can be installed in accordance with one of 2 standard schemes:

1. Open.

1. Closed.

Open circuit with tank

An open network, also called gravity, is built without installing circulation pumps that circulate the coolant inside the network. The fluid circulation is carried out due to natural processes: hot water rises upward, where in the expansion tank installed at the top point the carrier comes into contact with air. The cooled water drops to the lower part of the circuit, to the boiler, and is supplied for heating.

Closed heating circuit

Open systems are installed extremely rarely. You can find “classics” only in houses where old boilers, metal pipes and cast iron radiators are used for heating. The volume of coolant in these types of heating networks is large, and accordingly, energy consumption is not economical.

Combined scheme

Closed circuits are heating with the connection of pumping equipment, which ensures constant circulation of hot water within the system. Energy consumption (gas or electricity) is minimal, because the volume of liquid is only a few tens of liters. Due to the constant movement of water, the boiler is turned on only to heat the coolant to the set temperature.

How to fill the system with something other than water

The desire to add antifreeze immediately gives rise to many problems. We cannot fill from the water supply, and pouring from above is terribly tedious. In addition, we will definitely spill quite a lot of valuable and expensive antifreeze. And in a closed system you cannot pour anything from above at all. One way or another, you will have to add fluid at the very end to create excess pressure.

I can only offer two options. Fill from below either with a hand pump or from an electric bucket. But not every electric one can work with liquids other than water. This issue needs to be specially studied. Hand pumps are available for sale. They are called crimping. They cost more than 8 thousand rubles and are clearly professional instruments. Honestly, I’m even afraid to imagine that I will ever need to pour antifreeze into the system

I can only cautiously theorize on this topic.

Well, firstly, I would think about antifreeze at the system design stage

I would focus on the system capacity. I would use thin pipes, panel radiators and some kind of flow-through, non-storage boilers, if any

For filling I would buy a pump. There are definitely pumps for pumping technical liquids. They are much more expensive than regular ones and are usually made of stainless steel. The pump must be designed for a suitable pressure (from 2-3 atmospheres) and have, if possible, not too significant a performance. Well, 10-15 liters per minute. I would pour it from a big bucket. That is, the pump must be small. There are no small professional pumps! Non-professionals are “sharpened” only on water.

I have some thoughts about hand pumps. I will write, but not within the scope of this article. The hand pump remains relevant, because in the process of life we ​​have to pump liquid into the system.

You can attach a long hose to the check valve, then take the end of this hose and go with it to your attic. There, insert a watering can into the end of the hose and fill the system from there. It looks like it comes from above (from the attic), but at the same time from below. The question is: how much antifreeze will remain in the hose and how to pour it out without spilling? The idea seems theoretically workable, but I foresee many problems from a practical point of view.

Preparatory stage

Once the installation of the heating system is completed, it must be flushed before filling it with liquid. This is otherwise called crimping. If this work is not done, the debris can damage the components of the heating boiler.

For this purpose, a hand pump is used to pump air or water. In the first case, the air mixture is pumped up to 2 atm. When pumping water, a pressure of 1.5−1.8 atm is maintained, then the liquid is kept in the system for a day. During this time, possible leaks are identified. If all the joints have a good seal, then the water along with the debris is drained, and antifreeze fills its place.

Coolant replacement reasons and frequency

Replacing water in a closed and open heating circuit is carried out:

• During the first heating start.

After installation, the system is filled and started

• After seasonal drainage.

• When starting after repair work.

Regular topping up of fluid is required during operation if it has not been drained after the heating season.

Why drain your home system?

A question for which there is no clear answer is whether it is necessary to drain the circuit annually after the end of the heating season? The decision depends on the type, age and material of manufacture of the main elements - pipes and radiators, as well as on the total volume of liquid.

Each type has its own frequency of media replacement

Most often, systems with old cast iron radiators are drained for the summer. The reason is the appearance of a leak after the boilers are turned off. The old cast iron ribs are connected to each other by threaded connections with old gaskets. When there is hot water inside the batteries, the seals expand, providing a stable seal at the seams.

Repair of cast iron radiators

After the water cools, the material from which the gaskets are made naturally contracts and begins to flow at the junction of the ribs. But prolonged idle time of old radiators without water is fraught with accelerated corrosion; the rust inside the radiator and old pipes crumbles in a dry environment, and can damage the entire riser.

In closed new circuits, filling the heating system is not a costly process. But it is not recommended to completely drain the liquid every year - this is not necessary.

Frequency of replacing and topping up fluid in the heating system

How often do you need to change the fluid in your heating system? A few general rules:

• In open-type circuits of private houses, it is enough to simply add water if the system is sealed, without subjecting the old communications to stress tests in the form of long dry periods. Replacement is necessary only in case of emergency repair or preventive sealing, after washing.

If a leak occurs, it is necessary to drain the water and carry out repairs.

• Closed heating systems require preventive flushing and replacement of the coolant after several years.

The frequency of filling with new liquid depends on the characteristics of the water, the service life of the synthetic coolant, and the general condition of the system. If the extreme points are very airy, it is recommended to identify the cause - find the location of the leak and check the tightness of the heating network. Typically, water changes are carried out every few seasons.

Flushing the system before starting

Water heating scheme.

If there is water in the heating system, it must be drained. Next, you should dismantle the heating radiators. Then connect the pipes for supplying water from the water supply system to the outlet of the system, and the drain pipe to the entrance to the system. All formed connections must be well secured with pre-prepared clamps. It should be remembered that the higher the pressure the water is supplied with, the better the cleaning will be (but not more than two atmospheres). A pump is usually used to create pressure. You can sprinkle bleach on the water to have a disinfectant effect. On average, this procedure can take about two hours. Upon completion, clean water without additional impurities will come out of the drain.

The heating system can be cleaned using special chemicals: additives or anti-corrosion liquids

They should be treated with caution, since they are not suitable for all materials and can damage some elements of the system.

After cleaning, the radiators are installed in the opposite direction of their dismantling. You should additionally check the tightness of the system by visual inspection and identifying leaks.

Closed heating circuit

Now about the heating itself. If the house has a centralized water supply network, then there will be no problems with filling. In the water supply system, water is always under pressure of 3–4 atm, and this is enough to fill the heating network. To do this, the boiler is connected to the water supply, and a shut-off valve is installed between them. When it is opened, it is filled, and the air inside the system is released through Mayevsky valves installed on the radiators.

To drain the coolant, a drain pipe with a valve is installed at the lowest point. This is an important element of the heating circuit when it comes to pouring water into it if there is no running water in a country village.

Heating system diagram

The options for filling closed-type heating are as follows:

1. You will need a pump that can be used to draw water from a well, well, or any open body of water. The pump discharge hose is connected to the drain pipe, on which the valve opens. This gives you direct access to heating. This is how you can fill a closed-type heating system. In this case, all available taps open completely. This is especially true for Mayevsky taps, through which air from the inside is exhausted to the outside.
2. Please note that the supply pump may have a pressure greater than that required for heating. Therefore, be sure to monitor this indicator using a pressure gauge installed in the pipeline or in the boiler
3. What is 1.5 atm? This is a water pressure equal to 15 meters of water column. That is, by raising a water tank to a height of 15 m, you can achieve the required pressure inside the system. If you don’t have a pump at hand and you use water from a well, then you can fill the heating circuit by raising the hose to a height of 15 m, and then pour water into it in buckets. The hose, as in the case of the pump, is connected to the drain pipe. Let's face it - the option is not the best, but it can be used as an alternative.
4. And now, regarding the expansion tank. It is usually attached to the pipeline with a threaded connection. It will be very easy to remove it. An open pipeline is a great place to add water. To do this, you need to prepare a funnel to make the filling process easier. As soon as water appears in the pipe, we can assume that the system is completely filled. After all, the location where the tank is installed is the highest point in the heating system. Although in closed systems this is not always the case. After this, you can install the tank in place.

Tank structure

When using the last filling option, the question arises: how will the necessary pressure be created? Everything is simple here. At the top of the expansion tank there is a nipple, which is used to bleed air if there is a situation with excess pressure inside the tank. So the nipple can be easily removed. A hose from a regular bicycle pump is applied to the hole from the nipple, and the pumping is done last. Pay attention to the pressure gauge - as soon as the indicator reaches 1.5 atm, stop pumping.

Here's how to fill it out. Of course, the best option is to use a pump to pump water. By the way, you can take a low-power unit. To do this, install a metal barrel or other tank near the house, fill it with water from an open reservoir in buckets (you can use collected rainwater), connect the pump to the heating, and lower the other hose (suction) into the barrel. If the volume of the tank is less than the required volume of coolant, when operating the pumping device, carry water in buckets and pour it into the barrel.

And the last thing regarding bleeding air. This is a serious and difficult matter. You will have to bleed it from each heating device. This will take some time, but this procedure cannot be neglected. There should not be any bubbles left inside the system as this will affect the operating efficiency.

Closed heating system. How to fill with water correctly

Nowadays, many owners of apartments and private houses choose closed heating systems. A closed system is a circuit within which the movement of the coolant is carried out using the movement of the coolant - a pump, that is, forced. A special feature is a membrane-type expansion tank. Essential elements. boiler, tank - membrane, radiators, pump, pipes, also fittings, fasteners and filtering equipment. But very often, buyers of such “closed heating” soon wonder how to fill it and how to close the heating pipes. Below we will tell you how to properly fill a closed heating system with water.

The heating system is filled through the boiler power supply. This is done using an electric pump, as well as a manual crimping machine. The system is filled with prepared network water or antifreeze made using a special method - it is a non-freezing coolant. At this time, air is released throughout the entire internal part of the system (faucets, radiators, vents, etc.). When the required pressure has been achieved, the system can be put into operation. Sometimes there are difficulties in creating ideal pressure. Closing the heating pipes will largely depend on individual wishes, the design solution of the room and the location of the pipes themselves in the apartment, their number and size.

Difficulties often arise when filling with water. If the system is closed, then the expansion membrane tank (pressure inside the tank up to 6 bar) and the safety valve up to 3 bar must also be closed. Special valves must be installed to bleed air in accumulation areas, as well as a valve for feeding and filling pipes and heating equipment. The sequence of actions when filling a closed system is as follows:

Unscrew the screw located on the pump. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the pump system shaft. Tighten the screw tightly. Open the make-up screw. Fill the system until the pressure reaches approximately 0.5 bar. (you can start from 0.3 bar). Be sure to check if there are any leaks during this procedure! Raise the operating pressure in the system to 2 bar. Make sure that there are no leaks anywhere. Bleed the air in absolutely all internal places of the system. The next step is to increase the pressure in the system to about one and a half bar. This will be the most optimal pressure for a closed heating system. If the system undergoes cooling or heating, then the fluctuations should not be significant (from 0.1 bar to 0.5 bar). Watch the range of fluctuations! Sudden changes threaten to break all equipment, pipes and fittings!

There is no water level in such closed systems. The presence or absence of water is controlled using pressure. At normal levels, it should be between one and two bars.

A closed heating system is easy to operate, less susceptible to corrosion and destruction, and is easy to replenish and, if necessary, drain. If you have any questions or find any malfunctions in the operation of the heating system (freezing, leaking, etc.), please contact support immediately!

Heating boilers are one of the main types of heating equipment and are devices for heating the coolants entering the heating system to a certain temperature. The coolant passes through a closed circle of the heating system.

Before you start looking for contractors to improve your own balcony, answer yourself one question: what do I want to get as a result of glazing? Perhaps you just want to use this room for drying.

Such cast iron radiators, which are familiar to the majority of the population and were installed many years ago, can no longer fully cope with the functions assigned to them for heating rooms and have a rather unattractive appearance.

Solid fuel heating boilers are devices that heat a room using solid fuels (for example, wood, coke, briquettes or coal). Typically, such boilers are universal, as they can work on anyone.

Filling the system with antifreeze

If various antifreezes are used as a coolant, then the situation is different. The system must be filled from various containers - buckets, canisters. Usually they take a bucket, pour antifreeze from the canister into it, and then use a pump to fill the system.

The coolant is filled through drain valve.

The heating system must be able to drain the coolant. To do this, install a drain valve. But through this drain valve you can not only drain the system, but also fill it!

Such a faucet can be installed on the supply or return pipeline; for this you need to make a tee. Or you can do it even simpler - install it instead of a plug on some lower radiator.

To fill the system, you need to lower the submersible pump into a bucket of antifreeze, put a hose on it and put the other end of the hose on the drain valve. Then open the valve and turn on the pump. The system is filled in the same way as a water supply tap - the pressure is pumped up to 1.5 atm, then the air is bleed from the radiators. Again the pressure is pumped up to 1.5 atmospheres, and so on until all the air has left the system.

Features of starting a closed heating system with distilled water

Filling a closed heating system with water has the following features:

• In order for the circulation pump and heating boiler to work properly, the pressure in the system must be slightly excessive. Experts say that this parameter should be at least 1.5 kgf/cm²;
• Before starting the system, it is required to pressurize it with a pressure one and a half times higher than the norm. It is especially important to carry out this procedure for rooms equipped with a heated floor system, since this heating element is located in a completely closed screed, so there will be no way to get to it later (read also: “Starting the heating - we start the system according to the rules”).

It will be much easier to provide the heating circuit with the necessary pressure if the living space has access to a central water supply. In this situation, to pressurize the heating system, it is enough to fill it with water through a jumper that removes the water supply, while carefully monitoring the increase in pressure on the pressure gauge. After completing such an event, unnecessary water can be removed using any of the valves or by means of an air vent.

Many people wonder whether special preparation of water for the heating system should be carried out or whether it is possible to limit it to water from the nearest body of water. At the same time, some argue that distilled water in the heating system will have a beneficial effect on the service life of the equipment and will not allow it to fail prematurely. But it is much more important to understand how to prepare water for heating if a special non-freezing liquid like ethylene glycol is added to it and how to subsequently fill the heating circuit with such coolant.

For these purposes, it is customary to use a special pump that serves to fill the system with water, and it can be controlled either automatically or manually. This pump is connected using a valve, and after ensuring the required pressure, the valve is closed. There are situations when such equipment is not at hand. As an option, it is possible to connect a standard garden hose to the discharge valve, the second end of which should be raised to a height of 15 meters and the circuit should be filled with water using a funnel. This method will be especially relevant if there are tall trees near the building being developed.

Another option for filling the heating system is to use an expansion tank, which performs the function of containing excess coolant caused by its expansion during the heating process.

Such a tank looks like a reservoir, which is divided in half by a special membrane made of elastic rubber. One part of the container is intended for water, and the other for air. The design of any expansion tank also includes a nipple, with which it becomes possible to establish the required pressure inside the unit by removing excess air. If the pressure is insufficient, then this parameter can be compensated by pumping air into the system using usually a bicycle pump.

The whole process is not particularly difficult:

• First, air is eliminated from the expansion tank, for which you need to unscrew the nipple. Ready-made tanks go on sale with slightly excess pressure, which is equal to 1.5 atmospheres;
• then the heating circuit is filled with water. In this case, the expansion tank must be mounted so that it is positioned with the thread facing upwards. It is important to remember that it is not advisable to fill the tank completely with water. It would be more correct if the total volume of air in this device is approximately one tenth of the total volume of water, otherwise the tank will not cope with its main function and will not be able to accommodate excess heated coolant;
• After this, air is pumped into the system through the nipple, which, as mentioned above, can be done using a regular bicycle pump. The pressure must be monitored using a pressure gauge.

All of these actions will allow you to carefully fill the heating system with water and ensure stable and high-quality operation of the entire circuit. If necessary, you can always turn to specialists for help, who always have in stock various photos of devices necessary for such work that can help with connection.

Filling the heating system with water in the video:

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How to pour water into an open heating system

In order to fill the open heating system of a private house with coolant, a slightly different procedure is used. The main difference from closed networks is the internal pressure of the circuit: here it corresponds to atmospheric pressure, which allows the use of an expansion tank as the main control device. In open heating systems it is mounted above all other elements.

Step-by-step instructions for filling an open heating system with water:

1. Draining the old fluid and cleaning the circuit. This is done in the same way as in the case of a closed system.

1. To pour water into an open system, an expansion tank is used, which looks like an open tank. Having removed the lid, they begin to pour water: filling a small circuit is usually done with a bucket. Filling large systems in this way is quite tedious, so it is better to use a household vibration pump. To do this, you will need a spacious tank with pre-prepared water. The pump is equipped with flexible hoses on clamps: one end is immersed in a container of water, and the other in an expansion tank.

Extended tank

1. It is recommended to supply water slowly so that the air has enough time to escape. When using a vibration pump, you need to ensure that the pressure in the circuit during its filling is within 1.5-2 atm. When it decreases, more water is added to the preparation tank so that the suction hose can be immersed deeper. The water supply is turned off after it begins to pour into the expansion tank.

1. At the end of the procedure, it is necessary to free the circuit from air pockets. To do this, open the Mayevsky taps on all existing radiators one by one, closing them only after water appears. To avoid getting the floor wet, it is recommended to place a portable container under the taps. Having released the gas from all batteries, add water to the tank. As practice shows, the final release of air from an open system occurs through an expander after the first combustion.

During intensive use of open heating (most often this happens in winter), the coolant will gradually evaporate through the expansion tank. This is explained by the high temperature of the coolant. To maintain the functionality of the system, it must be periodically topped up, making sure that its temperature does not rise above +80 degrees.

How to distinguish a closed heating system from an open one

The process of filling heating with water largely depends on its design:

• Open. This system uses natural circulation of coolant (usually water) when there is no additional pressure. Its operation is based on the elementary laws of thermodynamics: the liquid circulates slowly here, because an additional pump is not used. At the highest point of the open circuit, a special expansion tank is installed to compensate for the increase in water volume when heated. This container absorbs excess water as it expands, returning it back when cooled. The tank is not sealed, so liquid constantly evaporates from it: its volume must be replenished from time to time. The boiler in an open system, as opposed to the tank, should be mounted at the very bottom of the circuit.

Open heating system

• Closed. A completely sealed system in which the heated coolant moves under the influence of a circulation pump. Closed-type heating is also equipped with an expansion tank, but unlike an open system, it is completely sealed and can be installed at any point in the system, not just on top. Inside the container there are two compartments, separated by a rubber membrane. The lower part of the expansion tank is filled with liquid, and the upper part is filled with air: thanks to its pressure on the membrane, a comfortable pressure level (1.5 atm.) is maintained in the circuit. As the temperature of the coolant rises, it penetrates through the valve into the expansion tank and compresses the air. After cooling, the liquid is pushed back into the circuit by compressed gas.

Closed heating system

The list of situations when there is a need to fill the heating system with water:

1. On first launch. As already mentioned, this procedure is usually carried out by the plumbers who installed the heating system.

1. Repair. Preliminary coolant discharge is accompanied by repair activities when it is necessary to repair or replace shut-off valves, a radiator, a section of pipeline, etc.

1. After seasonal reset. They try to empty systems with cast iron radiators after the end of the heating season, as this reduces the wear of the intersectional paronite gaskets by an order of magnitude. In addition, in some cases, the coolant can be drained for the winter: this usually happens in country houses that are not used in winter.

1. Reduced coolant quality. The liquid inside the system is constantly exposed to critical influences, either heating up or cooling down. This causes sediment to form (if water is used) in the form of lime and rust. For synthetic coolants, such an operating mode can lead to changes in the viscosity level. You should also take into account the fact that in metal circuits the liquid gradually accumulates iron impurities. All this leads to a decrease in heating efficiency and its service life, up to the failure of individual elements. Therefore, there are certain recommendations on the frequency of coolant replacement, depending on the situation. For example, it is recommended to change distilled water in a system with a double-circuit boiler once a year, before the start of a new heating season.

Selection of coolant

First, a few words about what liquids can be used to fill the heating system. Here are the key properties of popular coolants.

Water

• Price: minimal (when pumped from a water supply with a water meter installed at the entrance to the house - from 20 rubles per cubic meter);
• Heat capacity: high (4183 J/(kg deg) at +20°C);
• Viscosity: low (meaning low load on the circulation pump);
• Corrosivity: medium (steel in contact with water rusts only in the presence of oxygen);
• Toxicity: absent;
• : 0.03%/deg.

For heating, it is better to use distilled water, which does not conduct electricity and has minimal corrosive activity.

Antifreeze

Antifreeze was developed several decades ago as a winter filler for water cooling systems of automobile engines. Nowadays, it is often used as a winter coolant. The numerical designation in the marking of antifreeze (30, 40 or 65) means its freezing temperature.

• Price: from 40 rubles per kilogram for wholesale supplies and from 60 for retail sales;
• Heat capacity: average (3520 J/(kg deg));
• Viscosity: high (the load on the pump increases due to an increase in the hydraulic resistance of the system);
• Corrosivity: low due to anti-corrosion additives;
• Toxicity: high (the original antifreeze contains poisonous ethylene glycol);
• Heat expansion coefficient: 0.05%/deg. The higher the expansion coefficient, the larger the expansion tank must be in a closed heating system. It is this that compensates for the expansion of the coolant as the temperature rises.

Antifreeze is antifreeze for water cooling systems of engines.

Due to zero corrosive activity, antifreeze creates leaks at the slightest violation of the tightness of the heating circuit. Water and other coolants quickly clog small leaks with rust and crystallizing mineral salts.

Propylene glycol

Non-freezing coolants are produced on the basis of propylene glycol, designed specifically for heating systems.

Packaging of coolant based on propylene glycol.

• Price: from 100 rubles per kilogram;
• Heat capacity: low (2400 J/(kg deg));

Propylene glycol is used in the form of an aqueous solution. Mixing with water increases its heat capacity to the level of antifreeze (3500-4000 J/(kg deg) depending on the proportion of the mixture).

• Viscosity: high;
• Corrosivity: low due to additives;
• Toxicity: zero (canisters with coolant are marked green and marked “Eco”);

Polypropylene glycol mixed with glycerin is used as a cosmetic product.

• Heat expansion coefficient: approximately 0.05%/deg.

Brine

A concentrated solution of table salt, calcium chloride and other salts can also be used as a coolant: its freezing point is inversely proportional to the salt concentration. These are a typical budget solution, which is limited to use only in open systems with natural circulation.

• Price: from 5 rubles per 1 kg of table salt;
• Heat capacity: low (at 30 percent concentration - 2700 J/(kg deg);
• Viscosity: low;
• Corrosivity: extremely high. Salt literally corrodes steel pipes;

This is how steel is affected by contact with sea water - brine with a small concentration of salts.

• Toxicity: null;
• Expansion when heated: approximately 0.03%/deg.

At high brine concentrations and slow movement of the coolant in the system, excess salts will gradually be deposited on the walls of the pipes, reducing their cross-section. In a forced circulation circuit, brine has a detrimental effect on the pump: the shaft and impeller become overgrown with crystals, which leads to a drop in performance.

conclusions

The instructions for choosing a coolant are quite obvious:

1. If you have the opportunity to maintain a positive temperature in your house throughout the heating season, it is best to fill the heating circuit with water. It is better to use distilled water, but you can also use drinking water or even well water;
2. If the cottage is periodically left without heating, your choice is non-freezing coolants based on propylene glycol.

The freezing point of antifreeze depending on the concentration of the solution.

Flushing the system

We fill the heating system with water to a pressure of 2 bar, then turn on the circulation pump. If there is a system of primary-secondary rings or the boiler is connected directly to the system, then you can immediately start the boiler and without heating or with minimal heating we allow the system to work for about an hour.

After this, we check the condition of the mud filter. If it is clean, the washing is considered complete. If there is dirt in it, then you need to clean the mesh, start the system again, let it run for half an hour and again check the condition of the filter. The washing is considered complete; after half an hour there will be no dirt on the filter mesh.

The flushing water must be drained from the heating system, and the residues must be removed with a compressor. After this, you can begin filling the system with working coolant.

Conclusion

The conclusion is very simple. In order to avoid problems, you need to choose the right heating scheme (closed two-pipe), design convenient places in the system for filling and draining the coolant, and when creating it, monitor the slopes of the pipes. And you won't have any problems! You will live and rejoice!

And if you do not live in the house permanently, but only come a couple of times during the winter, then instead of using antifreeze, I would really think about electric heating. It will be many times cheaper, by the way.

I hope the process of filling your heating system will not bring you negative emotions. Dmitry Belkin

Article created 09.09.2015

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Over the past few years, closed heating systems have become increasingly popular. Heating equipment is becoming more and more expensive, and you want it to last longer. In closed systems, the possibility of free oxygen getting inside is practically eliminated, which extends the life of the equipment.

Closed heating system - what is it?

As you know, any heating system in a private home has an expansion tank. This is a container that contains some coolant removal. This tank is necessary to compensate for thermal expansion under various operating conditions. By design, expansion tanks are of open and closed type, respectively, and heating systems are called open and closed.

In recent years, a closed heating scheme has become increasingly popular. Firstly, it is automated and works without human intervention for a long time. Secondly, it can use any type of coolant, including antifreeze (it evaporates from open tanks). Thirdly, the pressure is maintained constant, which allows the use of any household appliances in a private home. There are several more advantages that relate to wiring and operation:

• There is no direct contact of the coolant with air, therefore, there is no (or almost no) unbound oxygen, which is a powerful oxidizing agent. This means that the heating elements will not oxidize, which will increase their service life.
• A closed-type expansion tank is placed anywhere, usually close to the boiler (wall-mounted gas boilers come immediately with expansion tanks). An open-type tank should be located in the attic, and this means additional pipes, as well as insulation measures so that heat does not “leak” through the roof.
• The closed type system has automatic air vents, so there is no airing.

In general, a closed heating system is considered more convenient. Its main drawback is its energy dependence. The movement of the coolant is ensured by a circulation pump (forced circulation), and it does not work without electricity. It is possible to organize natural circulation in closed systems, but it is difficult - it requires regulating the flow using the thickness of the pipes. This is a rather complicated calculation, which is why it is often believed that a closed heating system only works with a pump.

To reduce energy dependence and increase heating reliability, install uninterruptible power supplies with batteries and/or small generators that will provide emergency power supply.

Components and their purpose

In general, a closed heating system consists of a certain set of elements:

• Boiler with safety group. There are two options here. The first is that the safety group is built into the boiler (gas wall-mounted boilers, pellet boilers and some solid fuel gas generators). The second is that there is no safety group in the boiler, then it is installed at the outlet in the supply pipeline.
• Pipes, radiators, convectors.
• Circulation pump. Ensures the movement of coolant. It is installed mainly on the return pipeline (the temperature is lower here and there are fewer possibilities of overheating).
• Expansion tank. Compensates for changes in coolant volume, maintaining stable pressure.

Now in more detail about each element.

Boiler - which one to choose

Since the closed heating system of a private house can operate autonomously, it makes sense to install a heating boiler with automation. In this case, having configured the parameters, you do not need to return to this. All modes are supported without human intervention.

The most convenient gas boilers in this regard. They have the ability to connect a room thermostat. The temperature set on it is maintained with an accuracy of one degree. It dropped by a degree, the boiler turned on, heating the house. As soon as the thermostat is activated (the temperature is reached), the operation stops. Comfortable, convenient, economical.

Some models have the ability to connect weather-dependent automation - these are external sensors. Based on their readings, the boiler adjusts the power of the burners. Gas boilers in closed heating systems are good equipment that can provide comfort. The only pity is that gas is not available everywhere.

Electric boilers can provide a no less degree of automation. In addition to traditional units, induction and electrode units have recently appeared on heating elements. They are distinguished by their compact size and low inertia. Many believe that they are more economical than boilers using heating elements. But even this type of heating unit cannot be used everywhere, since power outages in winter are a common occurrence in many regions of our country. And provide the boiler with electricity. 8-12 kW from the generator is a very difficult matter.

Solid or liquid fuel boilers are more versatile and independent in this regard. An important point: to install a liquid fuel boiler, a separate room is required - this is a requirement of the fire service. Solid fuel boilers can be installed in the house, but this is inconvenient, since a lot of debris falls from the fuel during combustion.

Modern solid fuel boilers, although they remain periodic equipment (they warm up during combustion and cool down when the fuel burns out), but they also have automation that allows you to maintain a given temperature in the system, regulating the intensity of combustion. Although the degree of automation is not as high as that of gas or electric boilers, it is there.

Pellet boilers are not very common in our country. In fact, this is also solid fuel, but boilers of this type operate in continuous mode. Pellets are automatically fed into the firebox (until the stock in the burner is finished). If the fuel quality is good, ash cleaning is required once every few weeks, and all operating parameters are controlled automatically. The only thing holding back the spread of this equipment is its high price: the manufacturers are mainly European, and their prices are corresponding.

A little about calculating boiler power for closed-type heating systems. It is determined according to the general principle: per 10 sq. meters of area with normal insulation take 1 kW of boiler power. It’s just not recommended to take it “back to back”. First, there are unusually cold periods during which you may not have enough rated power. Secondly, working at the power limit leads to rapid wear of the equipment. Therefore, it is advisable to take the boiler power for the system with a margin of 30-50%.

Security group

A safety group is placed on the supply pipeline at the outlet of the boiler. She must control its operation and system parameters. Consists of a pressure gauge, automatic air vent and safety valve.

The pressure gauge makes it possible to control the pressure in the system. According to recommendations, it should be in the range of 1.5-3 Bar (in one-story houses it is 1.5-2 Bar, in two-story houses it is up to 3 Bar). If you deviate from these parameters, appropriate measures must be taken. If the pressure drops below normal, you need to check if there are any leaks, and then add some coolant to the system. At increased pressure, everything is somewhat more complicated: it is necessary to check in what mode the boiler is operating, whether it has overheated the coolant. The operation of the circulation pump, the correct operation of the pressure gauge and the safety valve are also checked. It is he who must discharge excess coolant when the threshold pressure value is exceeded. A pipe/hose is connected to the free branch pipe of the safety valve, which is discharged into the sewer or drainage system. Here it is better to do it in such a way that it is possible to control whether the valve works - if water is discharged frequently, you need to look for the reasons and eliminate them.

The third element of the group is an automatic air vent. Air trapped in the system is removed through it. A very convenient device that allows you to get rid of the problem of air locks in the system.

Security groups are sold assembled (pictured above), or you can buy all the devices separately and connect them using the same pipes that were used to wire the system.

Expansion tank for closed heating system

The expansion tank is designed to compensate for changes in coolant volume depending on temperature. In closed heating systems, this is a sealed container divided into two parts by an elastic membrane. At the top there is air or inert gas (in expensive models). While the coolant temperature is low, the tank remains empty, the membrane is straightened (picture on the right).

When heated, the coolant increases in volume, its excess rises into the tank, pushing back the membrane and compressing the gas pumped into the upper part (in the picture on the left). This is displayed on the pressure gauge as an increase in pressure and can serve as a signal to reduce the combustion intensity. Some models have a safety valve that releases excess air/gas when a threshold pressure is reached.

As the coolant cools, the pressure in the upper part of the tank squeezes the coolant out of the container into the system, and the pressure gauge readings return to normal. That's the whole principle of operation of a membrane-type expansion tank. By the way, there are two types of membranes - disc-shaped and pear-shaped. The shape of the membrane does not affect the operating principle in any way.

Volume calculation

According to generally accepted standards, the volume of the expansion tank should be 10% of the total coolant volume. This means that you must calculate how much water will fit in the pipes and radiators of your system (it is in the technical data for radiators, and the volume of the pipes can be calculated). 1/10 of this figure will be the volume of the required expansion tank. But this figure is only valid if the coolant is water. If non-freezing liquid is used, the tank size is increased by 50% of the calculated volume.

Here is an example of calculating the volume of a membrane tank for a closed heating system:

• the volume of the heating system is 28 liters;
• expansion tank size for a system filled with water 2.8 liters;
• the size of the membrane tank for a system with non-freezing liquid is 2.8 + 0.5 * 2.8 = 4.2 liters.

When purchasing, select the nearest larger volume. Don't take less - it's better to have a small supply.

What to look for when purchasing

There are red and blue cans in stores. Red tanks are suitable for heating. The blue ones are structurally the same, only they are designed for cold water and cannot tolerate high temperatures.

What else should you pay attention to? There are two types of tanks - with a replaceable membrane (they are also called flanged) and with a non-replaceable one. The second option is cheaper, and significantly, but if the membrane is damaged, you will have to buy the whole thing. For flanged models, only the membrane is purchased.

Place for installing a membrane type expansion tank

Usually they place an expansion tank on the return pipeline in front of the circulation pump (if you look in the direction of flow of the coolant). A tee is installed in the pipeline, a small section of pipe is connected to one part of it, and an expander is connected to it through fittings. It is better to place it at some distance from the pump so that pressure differences are not created. An important point is that the piping section of the membrane tank must be straight.

A ball valve is installed after the tee. It is necessary to be able to remove the tank without draining the coolant. It is more convenient to connect the container itself using an American nut. This again makes installation/disassembly easier.

Please note that some boilers have an expansion tank. If its volume is sufficient, installing a second one is not required.

The empty device does not weigh much, but when filled with water it has a significant mass. Therefore, it is necessary to provide a method of mounting on the wall or additional supports.

Circulation pump

The circulation pump ensures the operation of the closed heating system. Its power depends on many factors: the material and diameter of the pipes, the number and type of radiators, the presence of shut-off and thermostatic valves, the length of the pipes, the operating mode of the equipment, etc. In order not to go into the intricacies of calculating power, the circulation pump can be selected according to the table. Select the nearest larger value for the heated area or the planned thermal power of the system, and find the required characteristics in the corresponding line in the first columns.

In the second column we find the power (how much coolant it can pump in an hour), in the third - the pressure (system resistance) that it is able to overcome.

When choosing a circulation pump in a store, it is advisable not to save money. The entire system depends on its performance. Therefore, it is better not to save money and choose a trusted manufacturer. If you decide to buy unknown equipment, you need to somehow check it for noise levels. This indicator is especially critical if the heating unit is installed in a residential area.

Strapping scheme

As mentioned earlier, circulation pumps are installed mainly on the return pipeline. Previously, this requirement was mandatory, today it is only a wish. The materials used in production can withstand heating up to 90°C, but it’s still better not to take risks.

In systems that can also operate with natural circulation, during installation it is necessary to provide for the ability to remove or replace the pump without the need to drain the coolant, as well as for the possibility of operation without a pump. To do this, a bypass is installed - a workaround through which coolant can flow if necessary. The installation diagram of the circulation pump in this case is shown in the photo below.

In closed systems with forced circulation, a bypass is not needed - without a pump it is inoperative. But two ball valves on both sides and a filter at the inlet are needed. Ball valves make it possible, if necessary, to remove the device for maintenance, repair or replacement. The dirt filter prevents clogging. Sometimes, as an additional element of reliability, a check valve is also installed between the filter and the ball valve, which will prevent the coolant from moving in the opposite direction.

Connection diagram (piping) of a circulation pump to a closed-type heating system

How to fill a closed heating system

At the lowest point of the system, usually on the return pipeline, an additional tap is installed to feed/drain the system. In the simplest case, this is a tee installed in a pipeline, to which a ball valve is connected through a small section of the pipe.

In this case, when draining the system, you will need to substitute some kind of container or connect a hose. When filling the coolant, a hand pump hose is connected to the ball valve. This simple device can be rented at plumbing stores.

There is a second option - when the coolant is just tap water. In this case, the water supply is connected either to a special boiler inlet (in wall-mounted gas boilers), or to a ball valve similarly installed on the return line. But in this case, another point is needed to drain the system. In a two-pipe system, this may be one of the last radiators in a line, with a drain ball valve installed at the lower free inlet. Another option is presented in the following diagram. Shown here is a closed-type single-pipe heating system.

Diagram of a closed one-pipe heating system with a system power supply unit