How to insulate a brick bathhouse inside. Insulating a bathhouse from the inside: cheap and safe

From the point of view of creating the required microclimate and the durability of the building, the use of brick for the construction of a bathhouse is economically justified. Whatever the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath, the requirements for moisture transfer and permissible moisture accumulation are met in almost 100% of cases, regardless of the chosen insulating sandwich design. Even if the principle of consistently increasing vapor permeability in the direction from the steam room to the street is violated, high level the permissible moisture accumulation in the brick compensates for this deficiency. However, in addition to optimizing moisture transfer, there are a number of other specific requirements for the insulation of brick baths, which will be discussed in the article.

Load-bearing walls made of brick are distinguished by high thermal conductivity and heat capacity, acting in these properties as the complete opposite of log houses.

Insulation brick bath we carry it out from the inside, only at the stove we do not forget about fire safety

Unlike thermal insulation of residential premises, insulation of a bathhouse made of ceramic or sand-lime brick it makes no sense to produce outside. For buildings with periodic heating, heat capacity plays a negative role, since it requires more time to heat. For this reason, the main thermal insulation layer in brick baths should be placed exclusively as part of the internal sandwich.

Wall sandwich scheme

You can find recommendations for insulating brick baths using internal masonry made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 100×100 mm, on top of which a layer is mounted mineral wool. This begs the question: why bother with brick at all, if the first layer of such insulation is a strong enough wall for a one-story building? This scheme is not feasible from an economic point of view.

How to insulate a brick bath without investing extra money and effort into it? The right decision from all points of view is the use of three materials: a waterproofing membrane, insulating wool and an infrared screen made of aluminum foil. Taking into account air gaps, the layers in the sandwich should be arranged in the following order from the inside to the outside of the bath:

decorative interior finishing (lining, tongue and groove board, etc.);
gap 1 - 2 cm;
folgoizol, oriented with the reflective side inward;
mineral wool (slabs or rolled material 10 cm thick);
waterproofing membrane.

It is easy to insulate a brick bathhouse from the inside with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. To do this, it is quite enough to confidently use a drill, stapler, hacksaw and screwdriver, as well as have sufficient quantity free time. First, a membrane is attached to the load-bearing wall. Then a vertical sheathing is installed, the thickness of which is equal to the insulating layer or exceeds it by 1 - 2 cm. Cotton wool is placed inside the sheathing, after which foil insulation is attached to the beams with a stapler. It is better for the stripes to overlap. The joints of the foil material are insulated with special tape. Stuffed on top of the infrared screen horizontal rail, which serves as a support for finishing and a base for education air gap.

Expanded polystyrene can be used as the main heat-insulating layer if two conditions are met:

As an infrared screen, a material is used that has an internal surface made of foamed polyethylene with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
An air gap of at least 2 cm must be maintained between the surface of the screen and the polystyrene foam boards.

Due to these measures, penoplex or polystyrene foam does not heat up to the permissible limit of + 75 °C, even if the temperature in the steam room reaches temperatures above + 90 °C. The slabs are glued to the inner surface of the brick wall, and the waterproofing membrane is excluded from the sandwich.

Correction of insulation and ventilation due to efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed by special means

In itself, efflorescence on brickwork is not a problem for a load-bearing wall, but it may indicate improper operation of the insulation scheme, leading to disruption of moisture transfer. IN winter period the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2 - 3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

At sub-zero temperatures waterlogging is not noticeable due to freezing of the brick on the street side. In the spring, the condensate accumulated over the winter begins to intensively release on the surface, taking with it water-soluble salts.

If efflorescence forms equally on all walls, then the reasons may lie in the quality of the brick, the composition of the mortar, or a violation of masonry technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on individual walls of the bathhouse and their sections, it makes sense to revise the insulating sandwich, provided that the influence of the unsuccessful design of ebb tides on the process is excluded. This must be done in order to level the operating mode along the entire load-bearing perimeter to increase the service life of the building.

On a wall with intense efflorescence, you should:

add foil insulation if it has not been installed previously, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
add an exhaust vent.

Insulation of the floor and ceiling of a brick bath

Making load-bearing walls from brick does not carry any conclusions regarding the method of insulating the floor and ceiling. The design of thermal protection of horizontal planes depends solely on the design of the foundation, subfloor, ceiling and under-roof space. Let's consider only the most common design options for these surfaces in brick baths.

Concrete subfloor on the ground

Installation of heated floors in baths on the ground

Today, the most popular option for insulating a concrete floor in a bathhouse is the use of 10 cm thick polystyrene foam boards. There is no need to install waterproofing between the insulation and concrete, provided that the joints of the EPS boards are carefully sealed. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the expanded polystyrene and a 3-5 cm thick screed is poured on top. On top of the screed, if non-waterproof concrete was used for it, waterproofing is installed and a plank floor is installed. It is recommended to tile the floor in dressing rooms and rest rooms ceramic tiles. To eliminate cold bridges, the finishing screed along the perimeter of the walls must be insulated from the base with a vertical layer of polystyrene foam.

The second common method of insulating a concrete subfloor is the use of expanded clay backfill. Since a significant thickness of this material is required (at least 20 cm), beams of the appropriate cross-section impregnated with a composition that prevents rotting are installed on top of the concrete. After backfilling, finishing logs are placed on the timber to install the plank floor. With such a scheme, two types of membranes must be laid under the finished floor - windproof and waterproof. An air gap of at least 5 cm must be provided between the expanded clay layer and the wind protection.

Internal ceiling insulation

Further (in the upward direction), provided that a plank ceiling is used, the main heat-protective layer is located - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. A layer of waterproofing is laid between the mineral wool and the boards.

Regardless of the design of the ceiling and the type of under-roof space, the two internal layers of thermal protection for the ceiling are no different from the equipment of the walls. This is a lumber finish and a foil infrared screen located taking into account the air gap relative to the cladding.

External ceiling insulation

If the ceiling is made of wooden beams large section (at least 30 cm), the main insulating layer is located on the side of the under-roof room. Expanded clay or eco-wool is poured between the beams. Another common option is to use zip ties cellular concrete filled with sawdust or straw. On top backfill insulation A layer of waterproofing material must be laid.

Video: practice of budget internal insulation of a brick bath

It makes sense to solve some issues of insulation of baths of this type even before the start of construction. This will avoid waste of materials and save money.

Since the heat capacity of brick is an unclaimed resource when operating bathhouses, and the thickness of this material has almost no effect on thermal protection, there is no point in making thick load-bearing walls. One brick laying is more than sufficient.
When choosing insulation, it makes no sense to proceed from the degree of its fire safety, because the final interior decoration is still made of combustible material - wood.
If you choose a stove location with it adjacent to a brick wall, you should not try to insulate this area from the inside or outside. All the same, the temperature from the inside will not allow you to do this, and from the outside you will not eliminate cold bridges. Instead of completely connecting the stove to the wall, it is better to use an asbestos and steel screen as an intermediate layer. picnic

Insulating a brick bathhouse from the inside with your own hands can be done quite quickly if you prepare all the tools and materials in advance. Be sure to consider the characteristics of the walls. A brick building has the benefit of not having to think about protecting the structure from fire. There is also no need to do waterproofing. The disadvantages of brick buildings include their low thermal conductivity. It is for this reason that heat is not completely retained, preventing the building from warming up well.

One of the disadvantages of brick is its low thermal conductivity, so a bathhouse made of this material will need to be additionally insulated from the inside.

How to insulate brick bathhouse? This question worries many owners of suburban areas. Thermal insulation of walls increases thermal insulation properties baths When used in winter and autumn, the main part of the heat is spent on heating the brick. Insulation prevents walls from freezing. If you cover the outside of the building with clapboard, heat will still be poorly retained. To heat brick walls you will need a lot of firewood.

How to insulate the walls of a brick bath

In order to reduce fuel consumption, it is necessary to insulate the building from the inside. If the installation is done correctly, the heat-insulating material will hold warm air indoors. Heat will not escape through the cracks from the building.

Many owners of private houses ask about how to insulate a brick bathhouse. The easiest way to do this is by erecting an additional wall. It is best to use materials that do not emit components. The most popular material for thermal insulation is timber; it has good heat-saving characteristics.

Finished wall will look like a multi-layer “pie”. You can insulate a brick bathhouse from the inside very quickly. The scheme is as follows:

First, fill the walls of the brick bathhouse with sheathing from the inside.
When the frame is completely ready, waterproof it.
After this, you can begin building a wall from timber.
Place another batten on top of it and cover the timber wall with fiberglass. Use a stapler to secure the material.

Please note that the fiberglass fabric does not need to be stretched too much. It should hang freely in the gaps of the sheathing. Thanks to the overlap, you can easily place the tile insulation by inserting it into the gaps left between the sheathing. This basic diagram insulation of brick baths.

For internal steam you need to make a fence. To do this, cover the insulating material with foil. If you want, you can use a film vapor barrier instead. When all the layers of the “pie” are ready, fill the walls of the bathhouse with clapboard.

Regardless of the choice of material for insulation, its thickness should not be less than 10 cm. In this case, the insulation of brick walls will be of high quality. Always ask the seller for a certificate.

It is very important that the insulation does not release toxic substances when heated. It is best to choose basalt insulation that produces famous manufacturers. Such products can be absolutely safely used indoors; they are safe for health.

Remember that insulation of a steam room in a brick bathhouse must be done.

In this case, harmful substances will begin to be released into the air. Basalt-based materials are most preferred.

Finish the steam room with foil fiberglass, then the thermal insulation will be effective.

Insulation of the foundation and ceiling

Heat leaves a building not only through brick walls. The ceiling and foundation can be places where hot air can escape. That is why the insulation of a brick bath should include comprehensive protection the buildings. Develop a work plan in advance, focusing on family budget. You must have ready-made diagram insulation of buildings.

The process of insulating a brick bath consists of several stages. Place it on the ceiling basalt wool. Apply a mixture of clay and sand in 2 layers on top, add sawdust to it. Properly performed work will help speed up the heating of the brick bath and save fuel.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=wm1q_X5klK0

Insulate the floor thoroughly brick building, but first protect the outside of the foundation. If this is not done, then insulating the floor is meaningless, because hot air will escape from the room through the cracks.

Keep in mind that bath floor boards are affected by high humidity. In addition, sudden temperature changes have an impact. Insulate the floor in stages. First, fill the interior space of the foundation with expanded clay; you can use slag instead.

Insulate the foundation walls from the outside, you can use penoplex. The slabs can be glued to the foundation with a special mixture or mastic. Seal the seams between the plates, and blow out the corners with foam.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xPMUA9VnSM

Conclusion

It is necessary to insulate the bathhouse from the inside in a comprehensive manner. Fill the subfloor with expanded clay and insulate the foundation with penoplex. Don't forget that you need to insulate the ceiling. To insulate walls from the inside, use basalt wool, clapboard or timber. The protection of the building must be multi-layered. Now you know everything about how to properly insulate a brick bathhouse.

Building your own bathhouse from aerated concrete or timber is currently not so widespread. Modern builders and developers prefer to use conventional building brick for the construction of bath walls.

Double silicate brick M 150 has become especially popular for these purposes, since its parameters are almost as good as wood.

Thanks to the availability of information on the Internet, everyone can find out how to insulate a brick bathhouse with their own hands; this is not particularly difficult now. The main requirement is to do everything carefully and correctly.

Thermal insulation of brick baths

Building bricks can easily absorb moisture, so when building a bathhouse, it is necessary to avoid contact of the brick with the ground. Before insulating a brick bathhouse, you should decide on the insulation option.

Modern baths are built today with several thermal insulation options:

baths lined with insulation in the form of slabs;

baths with an air cushion in the wall;

baths having a layer of thermal insulation between the outer and inner layers of the walls.

With slab insulation

Insulating the walls of a brick bath from the inside is the most common method.

In this case, the order of work is as follows:

mark the walls;

drill holes in the seams;

insert wooden plugs into the holes;

to the prepared brick wall fasten the frame from metal profile or from wooden slats impregnated with an antiseptic;

attach insulation boards to the slats;

cover the insulation with an overlapping layer of waterproofing, avoiding gaps. Most often, various foil materials are used for these purposes;

perform final finishing clapboard.

Note!
The insulation inside the steam room must not only be environmentally friendly, but also be able to withstand high temperatures in the room.
Using the wrong material can result in complete loss of insulation.

With an air cushion in the wall

This type of insulation is done at the stage of wall construction. A gap of 4-6 cm is left between the inner and outer masonry. Reinforcement is performed every 4-6 rows by laying steel rods with curved edges.

With thermal insulation between walls

This insulation method is based on the use of backfill.

Instructions for performing the work:

carry out masonry, making transverse walls every 3 bricks;

as the masonry is raised, the voids between the walls are filled with expanded clay, fine slag or sand with lime and shavings;

after 10-15 cm of insulation is poured, it is carefully compacted;

the last layer of backfill is reinforced with metal mesh;

complete the laying by performing 3-4 rows of solid;

If the wall is not plastered in the future, then all seams are completely filled with mortar. If the wall is to be plastered, the seams should be left 10-15 mm unfilled.

Note!
If you have a lot of bricks with any flaw, then you need to lay them with the good side out.
This will not only improve appearance masonry, but will also keep the brick from becoming saturated with moisture.

Insulation of floor and ceiling

Insulating the brick walls of a bathhouse from the inside is not the only problem. The floor and ceiling insulation should be carried out in the same way.

To work with the ceiling you will need the following materials:

insulation;
roll-up shields;
vapor barrier;
ceiling lining;
bars;
waterproofing;
anchor;
boards.

The most simple option To insulate the ceiling, a mixture of straw and clay, which is applied in a thick layer, will be used as insulation. It should be remembered that the quality of insulation directly depends on the quality of the insulation, so it is not always cheap way the best.

Final finishing

The interior lining of the steam room is usually made of wood materials. Lining made from linden or aspen is considered ideal. However, aspen lining loses its pleasant color over time, although it is famous for its healing properties.

A more practical option is to use pine paneling. Its price is much lower, but the aroma and benefits are almost the same.

Conclusion

By correctly and carefully completing all the stages of insulation, you can get an excellent bathhouse that will delight you and your friends for a long time. In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

Material selection
Insulation flooring
Insulation of bath walls
Ceiling insulation
Window and door treatment

At sub-zero temperatures, the brick cools down very quickly, and warming it up later will be difficult and expensive. Therefore, insulating a brick bathhouse from the inside becomes the main issue for all those who like to take a steam bath in the cold. The following presents the process of insulating a brick bath from the inside.

Using various building materials It’s easy to insulate a bathhouse with your own hands so that at sub-zero temperatures a hot atmosphere always remains inside.

Material selection

Brick, as is known from practice, cools quickly and warms up slowly. Moreover, it holds heat like a sieve. Therefore, it is imperative to insulate the bathhouse. Otherwise, instead of pleasure and health, the lover of a steam bath will face complete inconvenience against the backdrop of an eternal cold.

Scheme effective insulation bath walls from the inside

To insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you can use the following materials:

tree;
glass wool;
mineral wool;
polyurethane boards;
polystyrene;
porous cellulose boards;
pressed reed mats;
expanded clay

Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages, but the main role when choosing a material is played by price. If you have enough money, you can even use special insulation with foil. It's expensive, but really worth it. A layer of insulation (mineral wool or polymer) keeps the cold out, and the foil reflects heat from the source back into the room. According to some data, the return is up to 97% of the generated thermal energy. The goal of maintaining a constant high temperature is achieved, but at a certain cost.

Experts advise using a differentiated approach to insulating a bathhouse from the inside. Simply put, in different rooms use different insulation materials. For example, in the relaxation room and locker room you can get by with simple mineral wool, but for the steam room it’s worth forking out for foil.

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Construction begins from the foundation.

Likewise, it is better to start insulating a brick bathhouse from the floor.

Bathroom floor insulation

First you need to separate the floor from the surface of the earth. To do this, a gap (air cushion) is left between them. The process looks like this:

wooden beams are placed on the ground;
Expanded clay is poured between them (the thickness of the layer is the thickness of the walls multiplied by 2);
are placed on this frame wooden joists, dried and treated against insects;
fits between them insulating material according to your choice;
the joints between the joists and the insulation are filled polyurethane foam;
on top everything is covered with a layer of glassine (a relatively inexpensive but high-quality insulating material);
then the main floor of planks or plywood is laid.

After this, you can lay the main floor.

If the bathhouse has a stationary stove, a solid foundation must be made for it, otherwise its weight will lead to deformation of the floor and its destruction.

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Having finished with the floor, you can move on to the walls. The brickwork, before it is covered with insulation, must be treated with a liquid against fungus and mold. Some advise limiting the treatment to the steam room and shower, but moisture will penetrate everywhere, so it is better to treat all the walls.

Bathroom ceiling insulation scheme

The process generally goes as follows. Blow out the joints of the window frames and walls with foam, and repeat the same with the doors. The wooden beams of the frame are attached to the walls. It is better not to use metal, because it is susceptible to corrosion and absorbs heat. Then we lay and fasten the selected type of insulation (if it is glued, the walls must be treated with a primer). The next step is to attach the insulating layer. Foil, glassine, and craft paper are good for this purpose, although the latter may become wet and deteriorate over time.

A treated counter-lattice is attached on top of the insulating layer. antiseptics, to create ventilation gaps. Boards for covering the walls are attached to the top.

Various materials imply their own special technologies. But in general, the sequence of actions is as described above.

It should be borne in mind that you need to insulate the entire bathhouse, and not just separate rooms. Otherwise, “cold” areas will draw heat onto themselves.

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Heat in a brick bathhouse is also lost through the ceiling. Heat loss can be especially severe in one-story baths, and an air cushion in the attic will not help. Therefore, you need to do the insulation of the ceiling too.

The work is carried out after the insulation of the floor and walls of the bathhouse has been completed. A typical work sequence is as follows:

panels of fiberglass are overlapped over the ceiling, the joints are glued with tape or glue;
a mixture of sand, clay and coarsely chopped straw is applied on top, it is also called “adobe” (thickness of at least 30 cm);
polystyrene (foam) slabs are placed on top of this layer;
a layer of concrete (at least 10 cm thick) is poured onto them;
sheathing beams treated with an antiseptic are laid on the resulting “rough ceiling”;
mineral wool slabs are placed between them;
Foil is placed on top of the insulation (it is required above the steam room and shower);
the entire structure is covered with boards so that there is an air gap of at least 10 cm between them and the surface of the insulation.

Such a ceiling will reliably retain heat even in the most severe frosts.

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It is impossible to insulate a brick bathhouse without sealing the windows and doors. There is a serious loss of heat through them, so even if you have properly insulated the floor, walls and ceiling, the room may still not warm up due to cracks in the frames and loosely fitting doors.

If you are a supporter natural materials and they set up doors for themselves and window frames made of wood, you need to carefully caulk all the cracks.

The glass must be carefully adjusted to the size of the frames and fit tightly in the grooves. The joints are covered with putty so that it also covers the nails that secure the glass. By the way, a window with 1 glass is not suitable for a bathhouse; it is better to install frames on 2 glasses, or even 3.

In the latter case ideal solution there will be double glazing. It will provide reliable sealing, thanks to which the windows will not fog up and rot from excess moisture.

You can contact verified folk traditions, which our grandfathers and great-grandfathers used. To reduce heat loss, the windows in the bathhouse were lowered as low as possible in relation to the ground, the door was made low, and the threshold was made high.

Now, after the insulation work is completed, you can safely take a steam bath all year round, without fear that winter winds will blow away precious warmth from the bathhouse.

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How to properly insulate a brick bathhouse from the inside with your own hands?

Comparing a brick bathhouse with a wooden one, you understand that it outperforms several times quality characteristics. First of all, bricks don't burn. Secondly, it is not at all afraid of moisture, so there is no need to cover brick walls with moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds.

But this material has decent thermal conductivity, which makes brick baths poorly protected from the penetration of cold air. Therefore, such a process as insulating a brick bathhouse required condition during the construction of this building.

The best option is insulation from the outside. But there are situations when thermal insulation measures can only be carried out from the inside. For example, if the bathhouse is built adjacent to some other building. Or a brick wall plays a role facade finishing. But there is another explanation why it is better to insulate from the inside than from the outside.

The bathhouse is not heated constantly, so in winter its walls freeze through. And if you start heating it, then all the heat will be spent on warming up the walls, and only after that on interior space. So, in this article we will consider the second option - insulating a brick bathhouse from the inside.

Insulation options

Let's say right away that there is a large number of different ways, where various thermal insulation and other materials are used. Let's look at the main options that you can do yourself.

Option #1

Experts consider this method to be the simplest, so you won’t be able to do it yourself big problem. It is based on the process of insulating walls with heat-insulating materials, which are laid with or without lathing. Here is the sequence of this process:

The internal surfaces of the walls need to be waterproofed. To do this, you need to level them with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. It is rare that roll material is used for these purposes.
Next, a sheathing of wooden beams is placed on the walls, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
Now insulation is laid between the sheathing elements.

Advice! Optimal thickness heat insulator for bath rooms - 200 mm. The insulation between the beams must be laid under tension so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges. Please note that in this case the thickness of the insulation and the width of the beam must be the same.

After this, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched directly over the sheathing. It is attached to wooden elements using metal brackets. Therefore, you will have to purchase a stapler.
And the lining is installed along the sheathing itself.

Experts often use double wall insulation, installing two battens with insulation 100 mm thick. The process is more complicated, but it won’t be difficult to do it yourself.

If penoplex is used as insulation, then there is no need to install hydro- and vapor barrier layers. But it’s better not to give up the sheathing. This is the base on which the lining will be mounted.

Option No. 2

The second way to insulate a brick bath is to build another wall near the walls, only a wooden one with a heat-insulating layer. To do this, a frame of wooden slats is installed along the brick.

Its elements can be laid horizontally or vertically. Everyone decides for themselves. But remember that the elements of the wall itself will be laid perpendicular to the frame elements:

Now the waterproofing membrane is stretched over the sheathing and attached.
Next, a second wall is built. It is most often built from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. This thickness of a wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
But now you need to decide whether to use additional insulation or not. If "yes", then new wall The sheathing is assembled, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil rolled material is installed on top of the sheathing. If there is no need for insulation, then the sheathing is mounted anyway, only from thin slats. The top of the frame is stretched waterproofing material.
AND final stage– wall decoration with clapboard.

Advice! There is quite a large amount in the bathhouse various rooms, carrying purely their purpose. So, in all rooms except the steam room, any heat-insulating materials can be used as insulation. Insulation with a foil layer cannot be used in a steam room.

Insulation of other building elements

In addition to the walls in a brick bathhouse, other structures must also be insulated. Those who carry out these construction operations with their own hands for the first time make one important mistake. They do not insulate the foundation. But in vain. Thermal insulation of the floor is not the final stage when it comes to compliance of the lower structures of the building with thermal insulation standards. Just like walls, floors and foundations freeze through in winter if they were built from concrete mortar. Insulation of both building elements is the basis for reducing fuel consumption and heat loss. Therefore, the foundation will have to be insulated.

The simplest option is to glue foam boards to its internal surfaces. Their thickness is 5-7 cm – best option. It is important here that there are no gaps between the panels. Although this problem can be corrected by filling the cracks with polyurethane foam.
Don’t forget to insulate the ceiling and, if possible, the roof. The more investment in thermal insulation, the less heat loss, which means savings on fuel consumption, which is used to heat the bath and heat hot water for washing.

So, only two options were proposed to answer the question of how to insulate a brick bathhouse. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about these methods; even a beginner can do them with their own hands. Here it is important to accurately follow the stages of construction operations, plus be able to use simple construction tools. But do not forget that both methods are associated with wooden products, which must be treated with antiseptics.

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Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick bath from the inside and outside

From the point of view of creating the required microclimate and the durability of the building, the use of brick for the construction of a bathhouse is economically justified. Whatever the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath, the requirements for moisture transfer and permissible moisture accumulation are met in almost 100% of cases, regardless of the chosen insulating sandwich design. Even if the principle of a consistent increase in vapor permeability in the direction from the steam room to the street is violated, the high level of permissible moisture accumulation in the brick compensates for this deficiency. However, in addition to optimizing moisture transfer, there are a number of other specific requirements for the insulation of brick baths, which will be discussed in the article.

Load-bearing walls made of brick are distinguished by high thermal conductivity and heat capacity, acting in these properties as the complete opposite of log houses.

We insulate a brick bath from the inside, only at the stove we do not forget about fire safety

Unlike thermal insulation of residential premises, it makes no sense to insulate a bathhouse made of ceramic or silicate bricks from the outside. For buildings with periodic heating, heat capacity plays a negative role, since it requires more time to heat. For this reason, the main thermal insulation layer in brick baths should be placed exclusively as part of the internal sandwich.

You can find recommendations for insulating brick baths using internal masonry made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 100 x 100 mm, on top of which a layer of mineral wool is mounted. This begs the question: why bother with brick at all, if the first layer of such insulation is a strong enough wall for a one-story building? This scheme is not feasible from an economic point of view.

How to insulate a brick bath without investing extra money and effort into it? The correct solution from all points of view is the use of three materials: a waterproofing membrane, insulating wool and an infrared screen made of aluminum foil. Taking into account air gaps, the layers in the sandwich should be arranged in the following order from the inside to the outside of the bath:

Insulation scheme for a brick bath

decorative interior finishing (lining, tongue and groove board, etc.);
gap 1 - 2 cm;
folgoizol, oriented with the reflective side inward;
mineral wool (slabs or rolled material 10 cm thick);
waterproofing membrane.

It is easy to insulate a brick bathhouse from the inside with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. To do this, it is quite enough to confidently use a drill, stapler, hacksaw and screwdriver, as well as have a sufficient amount of free time. First, a membrane is attached to the load-bearing wall. Then a vertical sheathing is installed, the thickness of which is equal to the insulating layer or exceeds it by 1 - 2 cm. Cotton wool is placed inside the sheathing, after which foil insulation is attached to the beams with a stapler. It is better for the stripes to overlap. The joints of the foil material are insulated with special tape. A horizontal strip is placed on top of the infrared screen, which serves as a support for the finishing and a base for the formation of an air gap.

Expanded polystyrene can be used as the main heat-insulating layer if two conditions are met:

As an infrared screen, a material is used that has an internal surface made of foamed polyethylene with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
An air gap of at least 2 cm must be maintained between the surface of the screen and the polystyrene foam boards.

Due to these measures, penoplex or polystyrene foam does not heat up to the permissible limit of + 75°C, even if the temperature in the steam room reaches temperatures above + 90°C. The slabs are glued to the inner surface of the brick wall, and the waterproofing membrane is excluded from the sandwich.

Correction of insulation and ventilation due to efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed with special means

In itself, efflorescence on brickwork is not a problem for a load-bearing wall, but it may indicate improper operation of the insulation scheme, leading to disruption of moisture transfer. In winter, the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2 - 3 cm from the outer surface of the wall.

At sub-zero temperatures, waterlogging is not noticeable due to freezing of the brick on the street side. In the spring, the condensate accumulated over the winter begins to intensively release on the surface, taking with it water-soluble salts.

On a wall with intense efflorescence, you should:

Add foil insulation

add foil insulation if it has not been installed previously, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
add an exhaust vent.