How to insulate a house from gas blocks. Features of home insulation from aerated concrete blocks

From this article you will learn:

• What are the main characteristics of aerated concrete blocks
• When to insulate a house from aerated concrete blocks
• What material is better to insulate a house made of aerated concrete
• How to insulate a house from aerated concrete blocks with your own hands
• What mistakes to avoid in the process

One of the most popular materials in the modern construction market is aerated concrete. Over the years, he has been strengthened in leading positions. At least a third of individual buildings are now being built from this durable and lightweight material. But, giving preference to him, not all homeowners take into account the need for subsequent thermal insulation. Do you want to know why it is so important to insulate a house from aerated concrete blocks and how to do it yourself? Read our article.

Characteristics of aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete, in comparison with the same brick, is a young invention. But over several decades, it has become one of those materials that are preferred when building houses in different climatic conditions, as well as if they want to insulate a wooden structure. What is the reason for the popularity and what is included in the composition of this building material?

Aerated concrete is obtained by combining binders (cement, lime, gypsum, quartz sand), additives from industrial waste (metallurgical production slag, ash) and special substances - blowing agents (aluminum powder or powder). When all components are mixed with water, a chemical reaction occurs with the release of hydrogen gas from the powder or powder. It is as if it “swells” the mixture poured into the block, many cells are formed inside, and thanks to the “work” of the astringent ingredients, all this quickly solidifies. The result is a light, but fairly durable material - aerated concrete. From it you can safely build houses up to 10 meters high (three floors).

When erecting objects with a higher number of storeys, aerated concrete is used only in combination with reinforced belts. However, too high buildings from this material cannot be built. But it is widely used in the arrangement of baths, saunas and other utility rooms of a compact size.

There is an opinion that the porosity of aerated concrete eliminates the need for home insulation, but this is not so. The peculiarity of the material is that it passes air, steam very freely and acquires the ambient temperature. So, if aerated concrete walls are not insulated on time outside or inside, you can experience big trouble.

Fortunately, insulating a house from aerated concrete blocks is a simple matter, however, it requires caution. Still, this material is not simple concrete or standard brick. It has features that you need to be aware of.

The vapor permeability of aerated concrete is of great importance, for example, when finishing a bath or sauna. If these rooms are insulated with errors, the consequences can be disastrous. The walls will accumulate or, on the contrary, give off moisture very intensively. Both will make the bath unusable for its intended purpose. Correcting the error will require a lot of effort, time and money. Therefore, it is better to conduct thermal insulation correctly from the very beginning.

When to insulate houses from aerated concrete blocks

The first thing that comes to mind when drawing up a work plan is to insulate the wall as soon as it is built or immediately during the construction process. But this is a misconception. Aerated concrete blocks cannot be thermally insulated if they have just been removed from their industrial packaging. Because in production, finished products are usually collected in batches and wrapped in polyethylene as soon as they are made and dried. Therefore, the blocks contain quite a lot of moisture. At low or, conversely, too high temperatures, it can deform the material. As a result, the entire structure will be damaged.

Therefore, the walls are covered with a heat-insulating layer only after complete drying. Such exposure takes, depending on the characteristics of the local climate, from two to five months. It is possible to immediately insulate a house from aerated concrete blocks only if, simultaneously with the construction, the materials and the structure as a whole are protected from moisture.

Principles for choosing insulation for a house made of aerated concrete blocks

What should be considered when choosing a heater for aerated concrete walls?

• Main characteristics of the material. Thanks to the ability of aerated concrete to "manage" the humidity, the walls in the room "breathe". Finishing should not interfere with the passage of steam to the outside.
• The quality of the insulating layer. The insulation, like the walls themselves, must be vapor-permeable, but in this parameter it should surpass the properties of aerated concrete blocks.
• The right combination of heaters. The more insulating layers in the facade finish, the higher the vapor permeability of each new coating should be. After insulation, which does not allow enough air to pass through, a ventilated space must be left.

When insulating a house from aerated concrete blocks, one should also take into account such an important concept as the dew point (the temperature of condensation as a result of the difference between external and internal temperatures, as well as the plane in which this occurs).

If you carry out the preparatory and main work correctly in compliance with the above conditions, the dew point can be shifted outward. Then no condensate will cause damage to the walls and the room. Otherwise, unprotected masonry runs the risk of severe damage. The moisture that accumulates inside will definitely freeze at low temperatures, therefore, there will be a noticeable loss of heat. With increasing degrees, the amount of moisture will increase. Repeated drops will inevitably lead to the destruction of the building material.

The energy efficiency of a building depends not only on high-quality insulation. An important role is played by how well the walls are laid. If, for example, the seams are too thick or have other deviations from the norm, even perfect insulation will not help. The correct thickness of the glue line is 1.5-2 mm. When the blocks are fastened with a cement-sand mortar, the layer of which is 10-12 mm, the heat loss is ensured by 20%, respectively, the heating fee will also increase.

You can, of course, insulate the house from the inside, but this alternative has a number of disadvantages.

1. We'll have to sacrifice square meters. There will be less living space.
2. Additional ventilation will be required. The air extraction system must be powerful.
3. The dew point will be indoors. An increase in humidity is inevitable. Combined with heat, this will increase the risk of fungus (mold) growth.

For those who value the useful area and are interested in the preservation of the walls for a long time, external insulation is more suitable. You can opt for materials such as:

• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam.

As for the last layer of external insulation of aerated concrete house, well-proven ones are suitable for it:

• lining;
• siding;
• decorative rock;
• front brick;
• grouting with further application of vapor-permeable paint;
• plaster.

Many homeowners prefer plaster: ordinary or mineral, which is designed for walls made of aerated concrete blocks.

So, making a choice in favor of sound insulation from the outside of the building, we get obvious advantages:

1. A country house, the walls of which are protected from environmental influences, will last longer without major repairs.
2. High-quality insulation of the building allows you to prevent heat loss, and therefore, to avoid unnecessary spending on heating.
3. Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete blocks with the help of high-quality materials helps to simultaneously solve the issue of sound insulation - housing becomes as comfortable as possible.
4. The facade of buildings with external insulation looks more attractive.

Materials for warming a house from aerated concrete blocks outside

What is most often used for exterior wall decoration of various structures? Of course, siding. Reliable, durable, besides, quite cheap, this material is loved by both builders and customers. Another plus of siding is its shape: it allows you to fill the void between the base of the wall and the material plates with an insulating element. It remains only to decide which one.

Usually, for houses made of aerated concrete, professionals advise taking heaters such as polyurethane foam, foam plastic, mineral wool.

• polyurethane foam. It is a foam-like substance that is firmly attached to the wall surface and, due to its porous structure, forms a good insulation against the cold. To apply the mixture, you need the appropriate equipment and skills. It is believed that polyurethane is better than many other analogues in terms of quality.
• Penoplex. The easiest to install and operate and, perhaps, the most common means of protecting structures from heat loss. It is a dense rough slabs 3-5 cm thick. It has high thermal insulation characteristics.
• Mineral wool. A heat insulator that has long been used in construction. Unlike other modern materials, it easily absorbs moisture, which limits the possibility of its use for external wall protection. Typically, mineral wool is used in combination with film barriers indoors.

The process of insulating a house from aerated concrete blocks

Foam insulation

Anyone who wants to undertake the insulation of the facade of the house on their own often chooses foam plastic for this purpose. The material is time-tested, easy to install, does not weigh much, practically does not load the building. Plus, it costs half as much as the same mineral wool. But as a heat insulator for buildings made of aerated concrete blocks, foam plastic has a significant drawback.

The vapor permeability of conventional extruded foam is zero, in other words, the material is not capable of passing steam. And according to the rules, when warming houses, this indicator should increase from layer to layer. If aerated concrete is sheathed with foam plastic, moisture will condense in the thickness of the wall, which over time can lead to deformation, and the microclimate in such a room is unlikely to be favorable. But this does not mean that it is impossible to insulate a house from aerated concrete blocks using polystyrene foam. You just need to additionally build a wooden single-level frame and leave a gap for ventilation.

Sequence of work:

1. Prepare the façade:

• level the surface (for non-autoclaved gas blocks);
• clean and prime (for autoclaved gas blocks).

2. Mount the profile, fixing the guides of the frame system.

3. Install foam:

• insert plates of suitable dimensions into the space between the frame elements;
• additionally secure with glue or mounting foam.

4. Fix the foam plates with plastic dowels (it is better not to use metal ones, as cold will pass through them).

5. Perform decorative finishing:

• apply a primer to the foam layer;
• fix the fiberglass mesh on top;
• apply reinforcing glue;
• after the glue has dried, treat the surface with plaster (decorative or warm).

Styrofoam

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), one of the varieties of polystyrene, has also found wide application as an insulating facade material. The production method is the foaming of the ingredients at high temperature and under pressure, which gives the material valuable properties: strength, frost resistance, variable density. The thermal conductivity of XPS is directly proportional to the density and strength. Expanded polystyrene has minimal water absorption, as well as low air and vapor permeability.

For aerated concrete walls, this is a minus: the inability to pass steam leads to a shift in the dew point and the appearance of a thermos effect. Nevertheless, EPPS is actively used to insulate a house from aerated concrete blocks, and the problem is solved by making a ventilation gap or constructing a powerful supply and exhaust ventilation (as is the case with polystyrene foam). Installation of insulation and subsequent decorative finishing of the facade is carried out by analogy with foam.

Warming with mineral wool

Another widely used facade wall insulation is mineral wool. It is available in rolls or in slab form.

The popularity of this material is due to a number of qualitative characteristics, namely:

• high vapor permeability (perfectly passes water vapor);
• high strength (there are different categories of material stiffness);
• resistance to chemicals and biohazards (insects, rodents, fungi do not like it);
• fire resistance (does not burn at high temperatures);
• environmental friendliness (the components included in the composition are not dangerous to humans, do not cause allergic reactions).

Basalt wool (slabs) has similar properties, but it differs from the mineral composition (includes fiberglass).

The procedure for installing mineral wool when insulating a house from aerated concrete blocks:

1. Prepare the façade:

• clean the wall and level with cement mortar;
• prime the surface;
• if necessary, additionally level with vapor-permeable plaster.

2. Mount frame:

• fix the guides of the frame structure in accordance with the shape and size of the wool (roll or plate);
• provide a ventilation gap for air circulation and steam removal.

3. Fix the mineral wool on the facade with glue and plastic dowels-umbrellas (additional fixation).

4. Strengthen the insulation layer with mesh and glue (prepare for finishing).

5. Perform finishing work:

• cover the walls with a primer or putty;
• plaster or paint (to avoid condensation, do not use acrylic materials, as they are moisture resistant).

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Not the most popular in private housing construction, but polyurethane foam (PPU), which has taken its niche in thermal insulation, is a sprayed substance that requires special equipment to work with. After application, it remains on the wall in the form of a homogeneous hermetic mass.

As a PPU insulation, it has the following characteristics:

• forms a strong bond with the facade (does not collapse over time), as it penetrates into the surface porous layer of aerated concrete blocks;
• in terms of thermal conductivity (it depends on density), it occupies an intermediate position between polystyrene foam (with a minimum coefficient) and mineral wool;
• vapor permeability after hardening is comparable to the level of reinforced concrete: air and steam filtration stops (powerful ventilation is necessary to remove steam in rooms with polyurethane foam insulation);
• the specified thickness of the polyurethane foam depends on the grade of the material (usually 5-10 cm for the middle strip), the service life is 25 years or more;
• if used as an external insulation, it requires careful selection of finishing materials inside the room - they should not let steam into aerated concrete (alkyd paints, cement plaster, ceramic tiles, vinyl wallpapers are suitable).

Modern house insulation from aerated concrete blocks

Having set the goal of insulating a house from aerated concrete blocks, you should pay attention to the latest insulating materials, such as warm plaster. Thanks to it, it is possible to significantly increase the protective effect even for thick walls.

Paper pulp, sawdust, plasticizers, polymers are added to the composition of insulated plaster mixtures in order to ultimately improve the insulating properties. A layer of such material of only 15 mm replaces 4 cm thick foam. The mixture can be purchased ready-made or made independently.

The coating of the insulated stucco mixture has a relatively low cost and has such advantages as:

• ability to soundproof;
• vapor permeability (does not require additional vapor barrier and waterproofing);
• natural component composition;
• safety for humans and the environment (suitable even for arranging children's rooms and medical facilities);
• resistance to high temperatures;
• protection from rodents, insects, mold (fungus);
• no need for additional overalls for plasterers.

Warm plaster is applied in the same way as regular plaster, but if the facade is covered with it, additional protection is required from the outside: after installation, the insulated mixture is again plastered with a traditional composition. Therefore, it is better to use such insulating material for interior work.

How to fix insulation to the facade of a house made of aerated concrete blocks

To fix the insulation on the facade of a house made of aerated concrete, there are several ways:

Simple and cheap house insulation from aerated concrete blocks

"Wet facade"- this is what experts call a rather simple way of thermal insulation of walls, when insulation (plates) is glued to them, and then the structure is covered with layers of plaster. The variety of insulating and finishing materials does not play a special role - the principle of installing heaters (whether it be dense mineral wool boards or foam plastic) is the same.

Surfaces are always carefully prepared for finishing. As for aerated concrete, its pre-treatment is not much different from manipulations with similar materials: the walls are cleaned of dust with a brush or broom and primed in several layers with a suitable composition. But one caveat should be taken into account: gas silicate blocks can be of different densities, the higher it is, the less primer we take for work.

For example:

• aerated concrete block D400 - about four layers of reinforcing composition;
• aerated concrete blocks D500 and D600 - three layers;
• aerated concrete blocks D700 and higher density - 1-2 layers.

Until the walls covered with soil are completely dry, you cannot proceed to the main stage of installation! Ideally, if the house stands on a wide block or strip foundation, and the plinth protrudes at least 50 mm. This space is just enough to support the heat-insulating structure made of foam or cotton blocks. But often homebuilders do not leave free space, pouring a foundation tape that is too narrow, the walls become on the same level with it, or even hang at all. In this case, additional installation of the border will be required for finishing.

As a rule, support L-shaped profiles are chosen for this. They come in different widths and correspond to the size range of cotton slabs. The same profiles can be used for foam plastic (the dimensions of its plates are almost the same, but less in weight), and for any other plate heat insulator. The fastening of the structure is anchored along the horizontal mark with a step of 250 - 300 mm.

Attaching mineral wool or foam plastic to aerated concrete walls is not a problem. The choice of special adhesive compositions is diverse: if you want, immediately take it already diluted and ready for work, if you want, buy dry ones. The instructions are simple: add water and do not forget to stir with a special mixing nozzle.

It is convenient to apply glue to the plate with a notched trowel with a slot depth of about 5 mm. If you are dealing with lightweight cellular aerated concrete, then the layer of glue that you put on the slab must be continuous. This is true for all porous surfaces. But on dense concrete or brick walls, the composition can also be applied pointwise.

Professionals try to make the coating itself in two layers for greater efficiency. They use thin thermal insulation boards. As a result, the thickness of the insulation is the same, and the quality is an order of magnitude higher: due to the overlap and shift between the layers, there are no gaps at all.

As soon as the first layer of glue has seized, we cover the insulation with another one and, without letting it dry, we immerse a fiberglass reinforcing mesh in it - sickle. This can be done with a needle roller or spatula. Thus, the entire outer heat-insulating structure made of mineral wool or foam plastic is obtained as a four-layer one.

Plate insulation together with sickle must be additionally attached to the wall while the adhesive is still wet. For this, plastic dowels with wide perforated hats are used - the so-called "umbrellas".

1. Drill a hole of the desired size with a puncher.
2. Insert the dowel body.
3. Drive in the inner rod.
4. Press the dowel head into the sheet so that it does not protrude much above the surface, finally fix it with a tool.

Having fixed all the "umbrellas", we give the wall a "rest" while the glue dries. Then we apply another layer of it, the final one. And only after everything hardens well, we proceed to the decorative coating with plaster. You can take a ready-made composition for the “bark beetle” finish, or you can throw on a “fur coat” - it will turn out cheaper.

The classic “wet facade” finishing guide looks a little different. It is recommended to fix the slab insulation with "umbrellas" immediately after attachment, and then apply the first adhesive layer, sickle, glue again, and after drying - decorative plaster.

Typical errors in the insulation of houses from aerated concrete blocks

• Failure to comply with the rules of vapor permeability when choosing thermal insulation materials.

The set of rules SP 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection of buildings" states that each layer of the outer wall, which is closer to the outer surface, must have greater vapor permeability than the previous one. But in practice, the opposite often happens: on the outside of the wall there are finishing materials in which this indicator is lower than that of aerated concrete masonry, or even with zero vapor permeability.

This mistake is often made during the construction of private houses, without thinking about the consequences: as a result, incorrectly designed walls can gradually become damp from the inside. Water vapor, which absorbs the internal hygroscopic layers, simply will not be able to go outside, as a result, the thermal conductivity of the insulating layer will increase. In unheated buildings, this problem does not arise, but in houses with heating, intended for permanent residence, it is very common. With regard to buildings that are heated only occasionally, such as country houses, the degree of relevance of incorrect vapor permeability depends on the specific situation.

What materials “help” not very competent builders to violate the rules for insulating houses from aerated concrete blocks?

The clear leaders are brick and EPS (extruded polystyrene foam). The vapor permeability of the latter is almost zero. When aerated concrete walls are insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam or brick cladding of the facade, forgetting about the air gap between aerated concrete and masonry, the vapor permeability of the multilayer structure deteriorates and the consequences described above occur. Conclusion: choose a heater for aerated concrete, guided not only by the benefits and personal taste, but also by the rules.

• Using cement mortar instead of glue.

Formally, laying aerated concrete blocks on cement, and not on special glue, cannot be called a construction mistake. But a wall actually made in this way conducts heat 25-30% better (thick cement joints in this case act as “cold bridges”). To return to such a wall the normative resistance to heat transfer, it will have to be made much thicker. And this is more expensive than the cost of glue for aerated concrete.

• The formation of "cold bridges" in buildings made of aerated concrete blocks.

Another result of construction errors when working with aerated concrete is the so-called "cold bridges". Causes:

1. absence or lack of insulation of reinforced concrete overhead lintels and belts;
2. unjustified use of reinforced concrete frames in the construction of aerated concrete houses (due to distrust of the strength of the material).

For your information:

• openings up to 120 cm, the height of the masonry above which is at least 2/3 of the width of the opening, do not need jumpers - a horizontal reinforcement of the row above the opening is sufficient;
• openings up to 3 m can be blocked with monolithic reinforced concrete beams in fixed formwork made of special U-shaped aerated concrete blocks that do not require additional insulation;
• there is no need to insulate special aerated concrete reinforced beams, which cover openings up to 174 cm.

In practice, openings, as a rule, are covered with monolithic reinforced concrete beams (cast in place). They need external insulation, which is simply forgotten.

The compressive strength class of the most popular brands of aerated concrete blocks is B2.5, such blocks can have a density from D350 to D600 - load-bearing walls up to 20 m high can be erected from them. But builders do not always trust the strength of a material that looks light and porous, therefore erect powerful reinforced concrete frames, even for houses with a height of 2 floors. And these frames conduct the cold very well.

In addition, performers often do not glue the end surfaces of aerated concrete blocks with glue. This "bad habit" also increases the thermal conductivity of masonry from this building material.

According to the regulations, the vertical seam must always be windproof. When laying blocks with flat edges, all vertical seams must be completely filled with mortar. If blocks are used in which the surface of the end faces in the masonry is profiled (with the requirements for shear strength in the plane of the wall), the vertical seams are filled along the entire height and not less than 40% along the width of the block. In other cases, the seam must be filled inside and out with strips of glue or mortar.

Smearing excess glue or mortar along the seam and wall surface is unacceptable, because this reduces the total vapor permeability of aerated concrete masonry. The excess glue must first dry, and then it is cut off with a spatula.

When facing an aerated concrete house with bricks, it is necessary to be guided by the requirements of clause 8.14 of SP 23-101-2004. According to them, for walls with a ventilated air gap, a gap is provided, which should be at least 60 mm and not more than 150 mm. Brickwork, according to the rules, is connected to the aerated concrete wall with stainless steel or fiberglass ties. The cladding must have ventilation holes, the total area of ​​which is determined at the rate of 75 cm 2 per 20 m 2 of the wall area (including windows). The ventilation holes at the bottom are made with a slope below the surface of the bottom of the air gap, so that the condensate that accumulates in this air gap can escape.

Thank you for reading the article to the end

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Self-insulation of a house made of aerated concrete - simple and at no extra cost

The popularity of aerated concrete is steadily growing from year to year. According to independent statistics, at least a third of all private houses are currently being built from this relatively new material. But not all owners know that such houses require mandatory insulation. In this article I will tell you why it is necessary to insulate a house from aerated concrete, I will dwell in detail on how it is better to insulate a house from aerated concrete from the outside, and most importantly, how to do it yourself.

Why is it necessary to insulate such houses?

Novice builders love aerated concrete, or as it is also called gas silicate, for several reasons. First of all, the construction of a house does not require sky-high qualifications from a bricklayer. Light large blocks with clear, geometrically regular shapes sit on a special glue, and not on a mortar as usual. Such structures do not require the construction of a powerful foundation, and most importantly, due to the insulation of the wall from the outside, the cost of the project is significantly reduced.

A few words about the nature of the material

By itself, gas silicate belongs to the category of light cellular concrete. Unlike, for example, cinder blocks, the production technology of this material is much more complicated.

Briefly explained, a foaming agent is added to the cement-lime mixture, in this case aluminum powder is used, as a result of which a huge amount of hydrogen is released and many hollow cells form in the body of the block.

But initially the porous material has too low mechanical strength and to increase it, at the final stage of production, the blocks are steamed in autoclaves under high pressure and at high temperature. As a result, at the finish we get a fairly strong block with a very low thermal conductivity.

Why insulate such structures

From the school physics course, we know that perhaps the best heat insulator is air and the more pores the material has, the lower its thermal conductivity, and therefore the warmer the house will be.

But the problem of gas silicate is that the pores in these blocks are open, that is, the material is vapor-permeable and is able to absorb moisture. So, the answer to the traditional question - whether it is necessary to protect such walls, is unequivocal: it is necessary, and it is necessary.

Trying to build a house from modern building materials with, a person naturally strives to save on thermal insulation. Indeed, in theory, the thermal insulation will be carried out by the materials themselves.

For example, the construction of aerated concrete material is now very common. Aerated concrete is considered a porous and fairly durable material from which low-rise houses can be built.

Many people think that insulation is not required for a house made of aerated concrete. But it's not. Moreover, reviews from users of such houses, on the contrary, confirm the fact that aerated concrete walls need insulation. It is about the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete that we will now talk about.

1 Features and purpose

To begin with, let's figure out what this aerated concrete is, and why it is so popular with. Aerated concrete was invented not so long ago, if you look at more ancient materials such as bricks. However, in our area it has been actively used in construction for decades.

Aerated concrete is produced from a binder, fillers, additives from industrial waste and special chemicals.

Powder and aluminum powder are used as chemical additives. They are foam sample converters.

That is, when in contact with water, carbon dioxide begins to be released from a powder or powder. At the same time, the binders work to the full, so the block filled with gas becomes cellular and freezes in the same state.

The result is the same aerated concrete. It is relatively light, but at the same time quite durable material. From it you can assemble houses that have a height of up to 10 meters.

As a rule, houses up to 3 floors in height are assembled from aerated concrete without any restrictions. Everything above is equipped with reinforcing belts. It is impossible to build high-rise houses from aerated concrete. Also, this material is great for arranging baths, small buildings, etc.

2 The choice of material for insulation

Insulation for aerated concrete also plays a huge role. You can use different models of insulation, but not all of them are well suited for certain tasks.

So, the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete from the outside and from the inside is most often performed:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• Foamed heaters such as penoizol or polyurethane foam.

It is most convenient to insulate houses made of aerated concrete with mineral wool. It has a relatively low weight, a high level of vapor permeability, and does not burn in fire. Rodents will not start in it either, but for a house made of aerated concrete this is a big plus.

It is better not to insulate a gas concrete bath with simple mineral wool, as it reacts poorly to contact with moisture.

But with mineral wool from well-known manufacturers, the insulation of baths and other similar buildings, albeit with apprehension, can be carried out. And all because branded mineral wool insulation have much higher quality.

They are generally hydrophobic, and do not absorb moisture at all. The only serious drawback of mineral wool is its price.

Not everyone can afford to take enough insulation to completely finish a two-story house from the outside or from the inside.

Expanded polystyrene, if you look without asking the price, it turns out much better than mineral wool. According to its characteristics, expanded polystyrene is almost in no way inferior to it, and its price is much lower.

But it is worth taking a closer look and taking into account the special aerated concrete house, as the situation will immediately change. The main problem with polystyrene is its poor vapor permeability. The use of such materials will shift the dew point inside the wall, causing the blocks to slowly collapse.

You can mitigate these unpleasant consequences by using a vapor barrier film or something similar, but you are unlikely to be able to completely get rid of the problem. Expanded polystyrene can also become a home for rodents. They eat it with amazing speed.

As you can see, you can not use foam, but with great care. Sometimes you can combine foam and mineral wool. For example, foam parts of the house where there is minimal steam release. But rooms with a large selection such as a kitchen or bathroom should be insulated with mineral wool.

If you still cannot afford to work with mineral heaters, then foam plastic finishing is enough for you. It's still better than being cold in winter. Yes, and working with foam is very convenient. Just use it better from the inside, and do it wisely.

Polyurethane foam is also well suited for wall insulation. It is a foamy material that can be sprayed with special tools. It perfectly insulates the surface of the walls, moderately passes steam and is not afraid of moisture.

The only problem is its price. Polyurethane foam is very expensive. Moreover, both the material itself and its application will be expensive. That is why these solutions are practically not used in civil individual construction.

2.1 Wall insulation technology

As you yourself understand, it is possible to insulate a house made of aerated concrete both from the inside and outside.

Internal wall insulation is easier to perform. Such work is always easier to do, because you do not have to assemble large structures, take care of additional waterproofing and do a bunch of additional things.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration can be done by any man who has ever encountered construction work.

Of course, the first couple of hours will be spent on stabilization and stuffing your hands, but then the work will go like clockwork. And the area inside is smaller than outside. This means that the possibility of making a mistake is reduced.

Insulation of the walls of the house from the inside is best done using wet technology. That is, use dowels and a variety of fasteners to a minimum. Aerated concrete does not like such things very much, like.

If it is still necessary to resort to the use of dowels, then buy a special mount with a chemical base. It does not destroy the supporting structure of the block so much.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the wall, remove all unnecessary elements.
2. We prime the base.
3. We apply a solution to the insulation plates, glue them to the wall.
4. We cover the cracks with a solution, blow it with foam or glue it.
5. We apply a thin layer of plaster to the insulation. If mineral wool is used, then a mesh is also suitable.
6. We are finishing the wall.

When finishing from the inside, it is advisable to use only the wet method and not overdo it with plaster.

Moreover, we fix the plaster with the help of a grid. This is a very important point. Without the use of a grid, cracks may develop over time on the wall. As a finish, you can choose any options you like.

Vapor barrier here is better not to use or put directly under the plaster. This essentially eliminates the advantages that the vapor permeability of the insulation and the aerated concrete itself gives.

The house will become a little stuffier and more time will have to be devoted to airing or installing a reliable ventilation system. But if there is no other way out, then it is better to ventilate the room than to suffer from a shifted dew point and all the consequences that will appear in the end.

External wall insulation is a much more complex process. Here it is better to involve specialists who have special equipment. You can work with both foam and mineral wool. However, using mineral wool, as noted above, will be more useful.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the surface.
2. We mount ebbs, limiting elements, basement profiles, etc.
3. We prime and clean the base. We remove all unnecessary elements, calculate the insulation scheme.
4. We lay the insulation boards in a certain order. You can lay it on a layer of glue for insulation.
5. Additionally, we use special chemical dowels to fix the plates. Dowels are required for mineral wool. But they will not be superfluous if ordinary polystyrene foam is used.
6. We lay the waterproofing film.
7. We plaster the surface.
8. We apply the finish on the surface of the facade.

One of the distinguishing features of aerated concrete is its high thermal insulation properties. This is achieved by introducing a special foaming agent into the concrete mixture (aluminum powder or powder can be used). As a result, the released hydrogen bubbles are evenly distributed throughout the volume of aerated concrete. Compared to conventional concrete, aerated concrete conducts heat much worse.

It would seem that additional insulation for such a material is not required, but this assumption is not always true. Perhaps, only in a warm climate and in conditions of a very mild European winter, additional thermal insulation will not be required. In all other cases, it is desirable to insulate aerated concrete both inside the building and outside. In this case, many factors must be taken into account when choosing a heat-insulating material and the technique of performing work.

How to insulate a house from aerated concrete

When insulating walls made of aerated concrete, many materials can be used, from ordinary plaster to special "breathing" materials with high thermal insulation properties. The following materials are used:

• ordinary plaster(with the addition of aggregates such as sawdust, perlite, expanded glass). The advantages of this material include low cost, convenience and practicality. The main disadvantage is the loss of "breathing" properties of aerated concrete. Compared with mineral wool and other thermal insulation materials, they have low efficiency;
• Styrofoam(polystyrene foam). Its vapor permeability is at least 3 to 10 times less than the vapor permeability of aerated concrete, so foam is used for insulation only as a last resort.

Styrofoam insulation is not recommended in humid climates. The fact is that moisture will accumulate between the surface of aerated concrete and polystyrene, which, ultimately, will lead to rotting of aerated concrete blocks.

• mineral wool. The vapor permeability of mineral wool is even higher than that of aerated concrete, so that the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete using this material allows you to maintain a given microclimate in the room. Most often, mineral wool is used for insulation;

• polyurethane foam. Combines ease of application and high thermal insulation qualities.

Polyurethane foam is applied to the surface of aerated concrete by spraying. Thanks to this, a seamless surface of the insulation is created.

Methods of insulation of aerated concrete walls

There are several methods for performing external sealing of aerated concrete walls, depending on this, the composition of the required tools and materials also varies. There are such technologies:

1. . A separate frame (metal or wooden) is created in the cells of which heat-insulating material is laid. Then it is sheathed with decorative elements.

1. Wet facade technology(easy option). Plates of heat-insulating material are attached to glue and plastic dowels, then the surface is plastered in 2 layers with a reinforcing mesh placed between them.

1. Heavy version of "wet" technology. In this case, you will have to expand the foundation. The insulation is attached to the aerated concrete wall with powerful hooks. Then the surface of the insulation is plastered with simultaneous reinforcement with a mesh. After the plaster has dried, the wall is lined with natural stone or other material.

From the point of view of efficiency and cost, it is the light version of the “wet” insulation technology that is preferable.

Materials and tools for warming a house made of aerated concrete

To insulate a house made of aerated concrete, you will need:

• heat-insulating material (foam sheets or mineral wool in the form of rigid mats);
• special glue;

It is better not to try to save money and use cheap adhesive mixtures, in the future this may cause the mineral wool to peel off the wall.

• dowels "umbrellas" (for additional fastening of mineral wool mats);

• fiberglass mesh;
• container for the preparation of the adhesive mixture;
• perforated corners;
• building level;
• notched trowel;
• perforator.

The technology of warming a house from aerated concrete outside

Even before the start of the work, it is necessary to decide on the heat-insulating material, the technology for performing the work will depend on this. The main thing to pay attention to is the purpose of the building, as well as the vapor permeability of aerated concrete blocks and heat-insulating material.

You should not try to save on the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. The fact is that the cost of glue and other materials will hardly change, but the thermal insulation characteristics will drop significantly.

The work is carried out in several stages:

1. Preparatory stage. The surface of the wall is cleaned of dirt and dust, possible defects are sealed with ordinary cement mortar. If the area of ​​the defect is large, then "breathing" plaster mixes can be used to correct it. For better adhesion of the adhesive to the wall surface, you can use a primer.
2. At the level of the base, a frame is mounted, which will serve as a support for the insulation mats.

1. Vertical beacons are placed at the corners of the house.
2. The insulation is attached to the wall with a special adhesive. Glue is recommended to be applied along the perimeter of the mineral wool (or foam) slab and with several strokes in the center.

It is allowed to apply the adhesive mixture over the entire surface of the plate using a notched trowel. Cross-shaped joints should be avoided; for this, each subsequent row of plates is shifted relative to the previous one. Quite often, for the strength of the connection between the slab and the wall, plastic dowels and umbrellas are also used. They are located at the corners and in the center of the plate.

Gaps between plates should be avoided. The presence of gaps (the so-called "cold bridges") significantly reduces the effectiveness of insulation

1. Mineral wool is a rather soft material; fiberglass mesh is used to give it rigidity. Glue is applied to the surface of the insulation with a spatula, then a mesh is placed (overlapping, the overlap should be at least 10 cm), another layer of the adhesive mixture is applied on top of the mesh.

1. After reinforcing the insulation, it is necessary to further strengthen the corners of the building, window and door openings. To do this, perforated corners are glued to the corners.
2. After that, the surface is either primed and plastered (in 2 layers) or a layer of putty is applied and then the walls are painted.

If you plan to arrange a hinged facade, then even before gluing the insulation, you need to mount a frame on the wall, on which the facade panels will then be attached.

A well-insulated house made of aerated concrete will not only make you feel cozy and comfortable in the cold season, but will also save on heating bills.

aerated concrete- durable and lightweight material that has been used everywhere in construction for more than a decade. Its main advantage is high thermal insulation performance. Yes, the wall is thick. 30 cm according to this indicator, it corresponds to a brick wall 60 cm wide. Despite these characteristics, the insulation of a house made of aerated concrete is a common practice. When should such work be carried out and what materials are used?

Aerated concrete house in Riga, built in 1939

There is no urgent need to insulate houses made of aerated concrete, especially when it comes to heat-efficient grades of building material. This is due to the cellular structure of the building material, consisting of sand, cement, lime, water and aluminum powder. The components are mixed and placed in an autoclave. There they foam under the influence of corrosion of aluminum powder. The reaction proceeds with the release of oxygen, which forms porosity in the concrete.

The energy efficiency of the material is due to the cellular structure

But still, most often in the harsh conditions of the Russian climate, one cannot do without such a finish. The factors that make the work necessary include:

• Failure to comply with masonry technology, when large seams were formed. They are the so-called cold bridges, on which the thermal resistance is reduced. This also worsens the thermal efficiency of the building.
• Use in the construction of blocks with a density of D500 or more.
• Walls up to 30 cm thick (numbers and 64 cm are called, which makes the material not so energy efficient anymore).
• Filling with gas blocks only load-bearing frames.

Living in regions with a harsh climate is also a condition for insulating aerated concrete walls. An additional layer of thermal insulation will help reduce the thickness of the walls and the load on the foundation, and reduce the cost of building a building.

Several materials are used to insulate a house made of aerated concrete.

After the construction of the building, you must wait at least 2 months

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• penoplex;
• polyurethane foam insulation.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The technology of insulation is also different.

Methods of insulation of aerated concrete walls

Insulation of a house is most often done when it has served for some time, and it turned out that its thermal conductivity is higher than expected. But often such work is carried out at the construction stage. Then do the insulation not immediately. First, completely line up the entire box. Then they wait 2 to 5 months to dry the walls and remove excess moisture from the blocks.

Insulation of aerated concrete house outside and inside

Insulation of buildings is carried out inside and outside.

Positive aspects of insulation:

• increasing the energy efficiency of the building;
• less thermal energy is required;
• the building is better protected from the heat in summer;
• reduced heating costs in winter;
• sound insulation improves;
• extending the life of the building.

External insulation

The benefit of such insulation is that the dew point moves outward. As a result, the effect of "cold bridges" is minimized. They usually occur at floor slabs, lintels, armored belts. Thermal insulation on the inside of the wall prevents condensation.

When insulating a house, the main thing is to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation. This can be done using special calculators, which contain all the necessary parameters, including the region of residence.

With proper insulation, the dew point moves outward

Warming from the inside

Wall insulation from the inside is less important and often even harmful to structural elements. Usually the work consists in leveling the walls. Often, drywall sheets are used for this. Internal insulation is inconvenient, since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is lost due to the installation of an insulating structure.

This method of thermal insulation is allowed in the following cases:

• the authorities forbade changing the facade of the building;
• behind the wall there is an expansion joint between buildings;
• the room is adjacent to an unheated room that cannot be thermally insulated - for example, an elevator shaft.

Therefore, external insulation is still preferable.

Internal insulation is recommended only in extreme cases.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is produced in sheets, rolls, plates

Mineral wool- one of the most famous and popular heaters. It comes in several types:

• glass;
• stone;
• slag.

Mineral wool is resistant to heat and chemicals. Thermal conductivity of the material - approx. 0.035 W/m*°C. This indicator depends mainly on the density of the material. Over time, its ability to save heat decreases, which is caused by the penetration of moisture.

Advantages of mineral wool insulation:

• fire resistance and the ability to delay the spread of fire;
• vapor permeability (10 times higher than that of expanded polystyrene);
• long service life of the insulation layer (up to 70 years);
• mineral wool in slabs keeps its shape well;
• simplicity and ease of installation;
• decay resistant.

Of the shortcomings, experts note hygroscopicity, or the ability to absorb moisture. Thus, when moistened 2% is lost 10% thermal insulation characteristics.

Important! When insulating buildings with mineral wool, acrylic plasters should not be used. This will cause condensation to form.

When choosing cotton wool, pay attention to rigidity. The higher this indicator, the better the sheet holds its shape. Another important factor is the geometry and direction of the fibers. It is preferable to choose materials with a random direction of the fibers.

Video - Insulation of aerated concrete house

The disadvantage of mineral wool is that the cost of insulation will cost about a third more than when using foam and foam plastic. In addition, the layer of insulation will be large. Builders also point out that the danger of this material to health is not excluded. The insulation contains formaldehyde. This substance is harmful to the body and is considered a carcinogen.

Therefore, when working with mineral wool, it is necessary to wear a respirator that will protect the respiratory organs from getting the smallest dust particles into the body. But with proper handling of the heat insulator, there will be no harm to health.

When working with mineral wool, wear a respirator

Rodents can live in insulation layers. Then the thermal insulation properties of the finish will quickly become unusable. To protect the structure from pests, a metal cornice is installed at the bottom of the crate, in the basement of the building. This is also recommended when using other materials.

Mineral wool insulation technology

Step-by-step instructions for warming with mineral wool:

Step 1. The wall is cleaned of dirt, the seams are rubbed with cement, the surface is leveled. If the damage is significant, use plaster. Otherwise, the insulation will not fit tightly, which will increase heat loss.

Grouting

Step 2 A metal tide is installed at the bottom along the perimeter of the building. Fasten wooden bars to the wall. The distance between them should be 1-2 centimeters less than the width of the cotton wool sheet. The sheets should lay down quite tightly.

Surface preparation

Step 3 Attach mineral wool to the wall with glue-foam or glue-umbrella dowels. The plates are inserted between the bars, shifting them in relation to the bottom row to make a “checkerboard”.

Fixing the insulation

Step 4 The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the brackets, again covered with an adhesive solution.

Covering with vapor barrier film

Step 5 The corners are reinforced with perforated corners.

Reinforcement

Upon completion of installation work with mineral wool, a ventilated facade is installed.

Scheme of wall insulation with mineral wool from the outside

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool is usually used only for ventilated facades. The insulation does not have sufficient rigidity to be used under plaster.

When insulating the external walls of the house with mineral wool, vapor barrier films must be used. The coating shields moisture and condensate. At the same time, air penetrates through it, so the walls "breathe".

Expanded polystyrenes

The attitude towards expanded polystyrene, as an insulating agent for walls made of aerated concrete, is ambiguous among builders.

On the one hand, it is a heat-insulating material popular in Russia, which is 98% formed from air. In Europe more 60% produced polystyrene is sent to the thermal insulation of various buildings.

Expanded polystyrene - a popular insulation

There are such advantages of a heater:

• neutrality, absence of emissions of harmful substances during operation;
• resistance to rotting, mold formation, but such colonies can form on its surface;
• absence of cases of infection with microorganisms;
• immunity to temperature fluctuations.

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene include interaction with certain chemicals - organic solvents, alcohols, petroleum products. The panel may dissolve upon contact with these products. In addition, expanded polystyrene is subject to combustion.

Table 1. Thermal insulation properties of expanded polystyrene (PSB-S) 12 cm thick in comparison with building materials:

On the other hand, the material has opponents who do not recommend its use on aerated concrete houses. They justify their opinion by the fact that polystyrene foam has a low level of vapor permeability.

Experts note the following. The building codes state that when designing multilayer insulation, the layers must be arranged so that warmer and vapor-permeable materials are outside, and cold and deaf ones are inside. Otherwise, the outer layer of aerated concrete will not have time to dry out over the summer. As a result, moisture gradually accumulates in it, as a result of which the bearing capacity of the wall is gradually lost. Accordingly, the thermal conductivity of the material also increases. Gradually, the dew point moves inward, and probably to the inner wall. Condensation, fungus, etc. will appear on its surface.

These problems do not occur immediately after insulation, but after a few years. For this reason, the use of expanded polystyrene is recommended only in exceptional cases. Opponents of this building material believe that mineral wool is a more suitable material.

In view of these shortcomings, when insulating a house with foam plastic, it is especially important to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation layer. It is also necessary to take care of the proper ventilation of the premises.

Styrofoam insulation technology

Before insulating the walls with foam, the surface is prepared, as when working with mineral wool. Then the surface of the blocks is treated with antiseptic solutions to prevent the formation of mold and mildew. After drying, cover the facade with a primer.

Installation starts from the bottom, and is performed in this order:

1. An adhesive composition is applied to the plates - along the perimeter and in several places on the rest of the area.
2. With effort, each slab is pressed against the aerated concrete wall.
3. After completing the first row, they put it in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Waiting 24 hours.
5. Fasten the sheets with dowels-umbrellas.
6. Perform finishing (reinforcing fiberglass mesh, finishing decorative plaster).

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam

The walls in the room itself are insulated in the same order as outside.

The dowels used to fasten the panels must be made of plastic and not contain metal parts. Metal during operation is able to create additional "cold bridges". Each sheet will require at least 5 dowels.

Video - How to insulate a house with foam. All stages

When laying it is necessary to pay attention to the connection of plates at the corners of the building. So, in one row the panel protrudes, and the opposite one rests against it, in the other - vice versa.

Sticking foam boards on the corners

Styrofoam Adhesive

Adhesive compositions for working with expanded polystyrene should not include ingredients that can damage the structure of expanded polystyrene - they were discussed above. For fastening use:

• ready-made dry mixes such as Bergauf Isofix Ceresiy CT 85;
• liquid adhesives such as Bitumast;
• mounting aerosol adhesives - for example, TechnoNIKOL 500.

Works should be carried out in dry weather at an air temperature of 7 °C.

For interior work, appropriate products are taken, which usually cost less.

Penoplex

Penoplex is an extruded polystyrene foam. The material successfully competes with mineral wool and polystyrene. It is as light as polystyrene, but denser, and is able to store heat no worse than mineral wool.

Prices for popular types of foam insulation

Penoplex insulation

Penoplex is denser than polystyrene foam

The heater has the following characteristics:

• retains 30% more heat compared to expanded polystyrene due to its greater density;
• has a lower thermal conductivity in comparison with the analogue;
• has high compressive and tensile strength due to the special structure;
• fireproof due to the addition of flame retardants (ignites only at a temperature of 500 ° C);
• wear-resistant;
• easy to process;
• is relatively inexpensive.

Among the shortcomings, builders note its low ability to adhere. Since it has a high density, it does not interact well with adhesives. For this reason, the material is more often used inside buildings, even when fasteners are used. Since the plates are thin (5-30 mm), the loss of living space (sometimes even small) with such insulation is insignificant.

Working with penoplex

For the installation of foam boards, it is better to use FastFix adhesive foam. You will also need:

• adhesive mixture for plastering;
• fiberglass reinforcing mesh for facade walls;
• perforated corners;
• plaster and paint for external works;
• deep penetration primer.

Deep penetration primer prices

Deep penetration primer

Important! For external work, plates with a thickness of 50 mm or more are taken. But builders recommend laying the slabs in 2 layers, which will give 100 mm of foam.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam inside the building

Facade insulation is carried out as follows:

1. Clean the wall of old layers of plaster, if any.
2. Wipe the walls with a damp cloth or vacuum.
3. Treated with a facade primer, repeat after the first layer dries.
4. From below, a metal profile is fixed along the level, which will align the first row of penoplex.
5. A layer of adhesive foam is applied along the edges and several strips in the center.
6. Glue the foam to the wall.
7. Glue the rest of the plates closer to each other.
8. The second and subsequent rows are laid, shifting the vertical seams in a checkerboard pattern.
9. Lay the plates on the slopes.
10. Fix the plates with dowels-umbrellas.

Methods for applying glue to penoplex

For a decorative coating, you first need to make the surface of the plates rough. To do this, use a grater or sandpaper. Then the facade is treated with a primer that promotes adhesion, also in two layers. The gaps between the plates are filled with foam, which was used for the walls. The outer corners of the house and the slopes are formed with perforated corners. The surface is reinforced with mesh. Then make a decorative finish.

PU foam

Another way to insulate facades is to spray polyurethane foam. For aerated concrete blocks, it is recommended to use rigid polyurethane foam with closed cells.

The main advantage is that during spraying there are no gaps between the wall and the insulation, therefore, cold bridges are not formed, and condensate does not settle. After applying the product, a seamless coating is formed, which improves the quality of the thermal insulation coating.

Economically, this method is less profitable, since the cost of thermal insulation increases by at least 1.2 times compared to other materials. But at the same time, it is easier to work with, since no fasteners are required. The service life of such a heater is about 30 years old.

The most popular method of spraying. Although sheets with tongue-and-groove locks and thermal panels with tiles are also used for insulation.

PU foam layer

Material advantages:

• low density, therefore no additional load on the structure is created;
• high adhesion, so you can not use auxiliary products and structures - primer, frame;
• does not decompose and does not rot;
• does not emit harmful substances;
• warranty period of operation - over 20 years;
• thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.024 W/m*°C.

Polyurethane is obtained by mixing polyol and polyisocyanate in special plants. If spraying on the facade is planned, then the components are mixed in the spray chamber. Foaming only takes 10–60 seconds.

Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, before using a particular material, it is necessary to conduct careful calculations, to study the characteristics of the materials. After all, making rash decisions will shorten the life of the building and lead to additional energy costs.