We make wooden partitions in the bathhouse with our own hands. Partition between the sink and the steam room in a bath Partition in a bath made from partition blocks

A bathhouse is a building in which a person relaxes. It may consist of several rooms (steam room, small room, wardrobe, bathroom, shower). If the bathhouse is being built anew, then all rooms are separated at once.

In the case when the bathhouse is made indoors, and you need to divide the room into a steam room and a room, then it is necessary to install partitions. The material for the partition can be processed timber.

Partitions in the bathhouse are made to separate the rooms according to their intended purpose. The steam room is separated from the main relaxation room, as well as a wardrobe and a bathroom. Partitions can be done from wooden beams, bricks, metal profiles.

The most reliable material for partitions is a brick. Such partitions have high strength, resistance to mechanical loads. The only difficulty when laying brick partitions is stirring the mortar, preparing the bricks, and plastering the surface.

So this way turns into labor-intensive work. In addition, after installing the partition, it takes time for the solution to set tightly until it dries completely.

The most common way to install a partition in a bathhouse is wooden beam . A frame made of timber will allow you to quickly mount the base of the partition. Frame jumpers are installed every 50 cm.

First, install the guide beam at the top and bottom, and then attach the jumpers. Space between beams filled with insulation(basalt wool, mineral wool), then lay a layer of foil reflector. After installing the insulation elements, the frame is sewn up wooden clapboard from deciduous wood (linden, aspen, cedar).

Insulation of bath walls is integral element designs of partitions and walls. Bath insulation necessary to maintain existing temperature regime in the steam room.

As insulation acts rolled mineral wool elements, basalt wool, polystyrene foam squares, polyurethane foam rectangular slabs.

The most reliable insulation for internal bath partitions is polyurethane foam. It is, accordingly, the most expensive. It contains a two-component substance that allows maximum retention of heat in the room and prevents the entry of cold from the external environment.

The cheapest method of insulation The partition in the bathhouse is mineral wool. It is sold in rolls and fits tightly between the partitions. For rooms with high humidity mineral wool is not very suitable. More often they use ecowool with a special coating.

Also used for vapor barrier foil mineral wool, which is laid on the insulation and attached to the frame.

After the construction of the bathhouse, it becomes necessary to handle protective equipment . Temperature changes are always characteristic of a bathhouse. Especially if the bathhouse or steam room is located indoors at home.

This ideal conditions for the proliferation of fungi, the spread of mold and other processes of wood rotting. In this regard, all surfaces of the steam room and bathhouse in general need processing.

Treatment of bathhouse premises is carried out using antiseptic substances. In general, there are many means and substances that can be used to treat all surfaces, including shelves, sunbeds, and other sauna accessories made of wood.

When processing a bath can be used:

Acrylic protectants and coatings;
Before purchasing a lining or sun loungers, you need to inquire about the material. Ideal option for the bath it will be one that is dried in special chambers. It is less susceptible to various insects and wood bugs that spoil the tree;
Spirit wax solution. This processing method is considered the most environmentally friendly;
The most available funds processing: impregnation and oils on natural basis. Such substances completely eliminate damage to steam room materials due to exposure to temperature changes;

Indoor bathhouse is required there must be ventilation.

Also watch a useful video on how to make partitions in a bathhouse

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates rooms that are so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made from bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of one material or another depends, first of all, on what the bathhouse itself is built from. If it is a log house or frame construction, then it is better to use a tree so as not to violate the general concept, but for brick bath Brick would be more suitable.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)

In addition, the type heating device located in the steam room. If we are talking about traditional brick oven, then it is already a partition in itself. In this case, you just need to add it until a full wall is formed. In case of iron stove(this option is preferable) the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be either frame or made of ordinary boards.

In the photo - a brick oven and a brick partition

On a note! For a brick partition, it is recommended to use red brick, not silicate brick (the fact is that the latter is unburnt, which is why it is characterized by rather low thermal insulation and moisture resistance).

The design described below is wooden frame, lined with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.

Design features

Design features	Photo
The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, the height of which will be 10 cm and the width – 12.5 cm. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay tiles along it after the work is completed, which will isolate the tree from water.
This threshold can be constructed both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), or directly during installation, by constructing formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be coated deep primer and betocontact (for example, produced by the Knauf company).
The base will be attached to the curb using anchors (1.6 cm). The outermost posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hexagonal screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the posts themselves be oval and longitudinal - this way the frame will not be an obstacle to the settlement of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole.
The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, expansion or settlement of the log house when exposed to atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from floor to ceiling.
For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. The dimensions of the individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to standard sizes insulation slabs. The cotton wool should be covered on both sides with plastic film and secured with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material.
The lining will be secured with clamps to a sheathing made of 2.5x5 cm planks. The sheathing itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed to the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room bottom beam The sheathing is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and secured only to the vertical supports.
After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First, you need to install the skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are covered with platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves).
The platband at the top of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it moves with it without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material.
Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To “hide” the screw heads, stepped holes should be made in advance in appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size.

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1.In the opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut out using a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 2. Next, you need to install formwork to create a base for the structure, taking into account the doorway (94 cm). If the sink floor is covered with concrete, then the formwork should be installed along the edge of the screed.

Step 3.The floor surface in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and deep primer. To make the connection more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer in dowels there and screw in the screws ½ way.

Step 4.After this, the formwork must be filled with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it needs to be covered with roofing felt in two layers.

Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1.The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks need to be installed on the curb, marked and similar holes made there.

Step 2.The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.

Step 3.Next, the supporting frame of the structure is constructed. To do this, the outer racks (their dimensions are 6x10x235 cm) are installed on the base and secured with hexagonal screws. A washer is placed under each screw.

Step 4.An opening is made under door frame- are placed vertical racks, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance is 1 cm on each side more sizes frames.

Step 5.Using wood screws, the frame jumper is attached.

On a note! At this stage Special attention attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design turns out.

Prices for wood screws

wood screws

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Installation of sheathing

Step 1.Mats need to be placed in the cells mineral wool. If necessary, the material is trimmed using a mounting knife.

Step 2.It is attached to it on both sides of the frame polyethylene film(this needs to be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Step 3.The sheathing is installed at intervals of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed at the stage of assembling the frame - this will simultaneously solve the problem of its fixation in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. Door frame

Step 1. If the opening size is 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking verticality/horizontalness and fixing the frame to the racks, all gaps formed must be blown out polyurethane foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off using a mounting knife.

Step 2.Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from the sink with planed boards 60x30 mm. In this case, special attention is paid to the fact that vertical plane, which runs along the outer edges of the boards, must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing can be done both after installation of the lining and before it. It is important that the joint between the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with extreme precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage six. Cladding

Installation of the lining starts from the corner and is carried out using the “tenon and groove” technology. This means that the tenon of each subsequent sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the sheathing is done using iron clamps.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without heads (to avoid accidental burns) or with ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closing with pins.

Prices for lining

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Final finishing of the edges of the structure

Step 1.For the platbands, the same lining that was used for finishing is suitable. Using a circular saw, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned manual router(a radius cutter is used). The vertical casing joins the horizontal one strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 2.The baseboards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is plank) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical-type platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Step 4.The planks installed at the top of the structure will serve only a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

On the picture - ceiling plinth in the steam room

The described option is suitable for a bathhouse that has already been settled and stood for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case the dimensions of the log house itself change. If complete settlement has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

Can be used as cladding regular boards. Both they and the lining should be made only of hardwood, because... coniferous wood releases resin at high temperatures. We also note that all beams in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.

Platband prices

platbands

The partition in the bathhouse between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use ½-brick spoon masonry (or, alternatively, a whole brick). Such a structure will weigh quite a lot, so to lighten it, you can use hollow bricks.

Stage one. Preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all working surfaces. The plank covering is removed from the floor all the way to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further workplace equipped good lighting, all items that are not needed for work are removed from the premises. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work you will need the following equipment:

sieve;
Sander;
shovel;
mixing tank.

Step 1.First you need to sift the sand to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine mesh chain-link mesh and 4 beams. The sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3.Mixing proportions – 3:1. First, you should fill in six buckets of sand and two of cement. Water is added and the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but there is no need to add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this stage you need the following tools:

level;
pick;
trowel;
plumb line;
rule.

Step, No.	Description	Illustration
Step 1.	The string is stretched - it will serve as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, and the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a little for the solution to set.
Step 2.	Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins.
Step 3.	The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled with twine, and excess mortar is immediately removed.
Step 4.	If you plan to have a doorway (and most partitions have one), then it needs to be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal/verticality and, if necessary, its position is adjusted.
Step 5.	The brick is laid close to the box. To tie the partition to it or to wooden walls, metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; You can also use reinforcing bars.
Step 6.	At the end of laying row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts using a pick. The second row begins with one of these halves. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first.

On a note! Dressing the masonry is prerequisite. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be more durable.

Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and for door frame auxiliary reinforcement can be used (ideally this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks previously soaked in concrete. The pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - Laying a partition of ½ brick

Foam blocks (made of gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with insignificant (compared to brick) weight, they have a O larger sizes, which means the laying will be carried out much faster.

Standard blocks have a height of 300 mm and a length of 600 mm. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned to be installed, but in most cases, products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.

The masonry procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Prices for foam blocks

foam blocks

Stage one. Marking

First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markings, the first row of blocks is laid out “dry”, and if necessary, trimming is done. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a stone saw. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.

In place of the future structure, waterproofing (roofing felt is suitable) is placed in two layers.

Stage two. Installation

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The glue must be mixed with an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. Adhesive composition applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, verticality/horizontalness is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ the width of the product to make the partition more durable.

Where the partition meets the main walls, it is tied with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, and reinforcement with glue is inserted there to a depth of at least 50 mm. You can make recesses in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out from the walls.

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Stage three. Plaster

For plastering, you can use the same adhesive solution with which the masonry was done. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. After plastering is completed, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.

Plaster prices

plaster

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a partition made of foam blocks can be built directly on wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

When purchasing blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces are, the better the finishing will be.
The dimensions of the blocks depend on the installation location, while the density does not play any role.
It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
The blocks of each new row must be offset to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
It is advisable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) between the partition and the ceiling, which must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks

Building a bathhouse with your own hands requires thoughtful and calibrated actions. The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink is extremely important.

To build it, it is necessary to correctly distribute the space in the bathhouse and select the right materials. In general, the construction procedure is simple, but you will need to carefully follow the recommendations.

This article will discuss various types of partitions and materials that were used in their construction.

Why do you need a partition?

The partition can also have a decorative character, becoming a design element

This structure is extremely important for a bathhouse. It has the following advantages:

attractive appearance;
high strength;
good level of sound insulation.

In addition, the partition will provide high temperature and comfort in the steam room.

If there is no need for high thermal insulation, you can build a more simplified building. Below you can see a diagram of a bathhouse with a partition.

What is the partition made of? The choice of material is extremely important stage construction. The following options can be used:

tree;
brick;
concrete.

A brick partition is placed in the bathhouse if a metal stove is installed in it. For doubles optimal solution wooden structures will become.

Partition for a wooden bath

It is advisable to do in wooden bath wooden partitions

Such buildings are built from various types wood. Their assembly is carried out using the frame-panel method.

Experts do not recommend erecting brick partitions in a wooden bathhouse. Especially if the combustion will be carried out rarely. Since the thermal conductivity coefficient of wood and brick varies greatly, it will take a lot of time to heat the building, especially in the cold season.

It is better to make a partition between the steam room and the sink from different materials. If a similar material is used, but with a smaller connection, difficulties may arise in installing the connecting nodes.

The optimal solution for the construction internal partition There will be a frame system in the bathhouse.

Frame partition

The holes between the frame bars are filled with insulation

A frame partition in a bathhouse is best suited for wooden buildings. To build it, you will first need to assemble a frame from dried wooden blocks.

Their dimensions are 50 by 50 mm. The hole between the bars is closed with a heat insulator.

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

basalt wool;
foam board.

Protect the insulation from moisture with a layer of polyethylene

To protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture penetration, it is covered with a polyethylene film. Also a good solution would be to cover waterproofing membrane, although its cost is significantly higher than polyethylene.

Use stone decorative cladding highly not recommended. Wooden constructions The inside of the bath will definitely need to be treated with an antiseptic. This will prevent the formation of mold and mildew on the walls.

Construction of a brick partition

The brick partition is laid with spoon masonry

How to make partitions in a brick bath? This material is quite common and is often used for the construction of buildings in the bathhouse.

The construction is made using half-brick spoon masonry.

To make work easier, some specialists use hollow material.

Preparatory procedures

Before starting work, you need to carefully prepare the surface. The plank covering is removed from the floor to the very base, after which it is cleaned with a wet broom. The place where the construction will be carried out is equipped with good lighting. All foreign objects are removed from the premises and the outlines of the building are outlined.

To work you will need to prepare the following tools:

level;
sander;
trowel;
plumb line and rule;
cement-sand mortar. For more information about the construction of a partition, watch this video:

Creating a partition

The first row of bricks is laid on several layers of mortar

The process of erecting a brick partition consists of the following stages:

A string is stretched and used as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled using a trowel. The level checks horizontalness. You will need to wait until the solution begins to dry.
Another layer is applied on top of the dried mixture. After which the first row of brick screed is laid.
The mortar is applied to the end of the first brick, after which it is laid by pressing down. It is tapped and leveled according to the string; the remaining mixture will need to be removed immediately before it has time to dry.
If an opening for a door is planned in the partition, it will need to be positioned first. The door frame is installed using spacers. The evenness of its location is checked and, if necessary, this parameter is adjusted.
The brick is laid close to the box. To tie the partition together, special metal strips are used; they are folded and attached to the side surfaces between the bricks. Instead of strips, you can also use reinforcing rods.
After laying the first row is completed, the brick is divided into 2 parts with a pick. One half is used to start the second row. The string that served as a guide is moved higher so that you can easily navigate. Laying the third row is carried out in the same way as the first. For more information about the process, watch this video:

Tying the masonry is an extremely important stage of construction, which will evenly distribute the load on the structure and significantly increase its strength.

Building any kind of partition between the steam room and the sink is a rather labor-intensive procedure.

Not every beginner will be able to do this kind of work on their own.

But, as a result, this will ensure high level comfort in the bathhouse, therefore Lately the construction of such elements became popular.

What and how to make a partition in a bathhouse

Very often it turns out that first the “box” of the bathhouse is installed, and only then a partition is made inside between the steam room and the dressing room.

The method of making a partition in a bathhouse is chosen depending on the design of the bathhouse itself. If the bathhouse is brick, then it is quite logical to make the partition out of brick.

In a wooden bathhouse it will be natural to make a partition made of wood: from timber or frame.

The partition separating the steam room from other rooms has two openings:

for door
For sauna stove

If you install a five-wall made of logs, then you have to cut out some of the material from this wall for disposal. For example, if a partition made of logs is 2.8 m long and 2.2 m high, then its area is 6.16 m2. The doorway will be 0.7 * 1.8 = 1.26 m2 and the opening for the stove (if fully exposed front part stoves in the room) will be 0.5 * 0.8 = 0.4 m2 (depending on the size of the stove). In total, it turns out that 1.66 m2 of the 6.16 m2 partition will need to be cut out.

If material savings are not main reason If you install a partition in the bathhouse later, you can make it from timber. When constructing a partition from timber, you will need to cut out the above openings in the same way as in a five-wall structure.

It is the presence of two openings that characterizes the complexity of the design of the partition between the steam room and the other room of the bathhouse, especially since the opening for the sauna stove must be made of fireproof material with increased temperature and fire resistance.

Most economical option partition devices in bath-frame with insulation. This is a universal design that is suitable for a bathhouse made of any material: wood or stone, with any floor and foundation design.

In addition, it is economical in many respects:

the necessary openings are created immediately. There will be no need to cut out and throw away the material later.
does not require a foundation because it is lightweight. Can be installed directly on the floor.
Can be done by one person without involving additional drugs.

Partition in a brick bath

A partition in a brick bathhouse occurs not only in a stone (brick or foam block) bathhouse, but also in a wooden one. If a jumper is laid in advance in the foundation design, that is, there is a full-fledged foundation for laying brickwork, then it is quite possible to lay out a brick partition, leaving openings in it for a door and a sauna stove (with jumpers made of steel corner, for example).

Advantages of choosing a partition in a brick bath:

can be done by one person
fireproof material
durable (one might say: for the rest of your life)
you don't need to look after him
gives off heat for a long time

But there are also disadvantages:

takes a long time to heat up
need a foundation

A huge plus is that the sauna stove will fit into such a brick partition. The downside is that a brick is enough for a bathhouse cold material and it will need to be lined with foil and clapboard on the steam room side.

Partition in a bathhouse made of timber

A partition in a bathhouse made of timber, compared to a brick one, is good because of the material itself, since wood is more favorable for the atmosphere of the bathhouse and human health. I don’t at all beg the environmental friendliness of brick, but wood is better: it’s easier to breathe in wooden walls and it smells delicious.

If you think through the entire technology for constructing a partition from timber in advance, you can manage to save material in those places where there are openings.

The first option for installing the partition is the simplest:

grooves are made in the walls
prepare beams of equal length (across the width of the room)
each beam is inserted into grooves and placed in its place in the rows
necessary openings are cut out

In this option, 1.66 m2 of timber will be thrown away...

The second option is more economical: it is done in exactly the same way, only each row of timber and each timber, in that number in the opening areas. Beams of the length that are needed specifically in each row are prepared, taking into account the segments in the arrangement of the openings.

This option is also good because in the place where the stove will be, you can immediately lay out a protective brick wall, insert a sauna stove and continue laying the upper rows of timber.

Frame partition in the bathhouse

Construction of a frame partition in a bathhouse. The outer racks must be cut into the grooves of the outer walls of the bathhouse

As already mentioned above, a frame partition in a bathhouse is the most versatile in design, repair and operation.

When installing it you need:

make grooves in the wall logs in the places where the partition will adjoin. This is ideal for log bathhouse. For a brick bath - not necessary.
assemble the main frame from a block with posts and crossbars, so to speak, piping around the perimeter
complete the assembly of the frame at the openings with additional cross members (spacers)
place a brick insert in the opening where the stove will be
insulate the frame mineral wool slabs or basalt fiber slabs. What is needed is slabs, not rolls, because the rigidity of the insulation is of no small importance on vertical surfaces.
on the steam room side, cover first with a vapor barrier layer (Izospan, etc.), and then with clapboard
With outside the steam room (from the side of the adjacent room) should be sheathed first with a waterproofing material, such as Izospan, and then with a covering material of the developer’s choice. If this is a washing room, then in view of the high humidity in this room, the cladding can be made not only with lining from some kind of wood that is most resistant to moisture, but also from gypsum plasterboard (moisture-resistant plasterboard) with further cladding with ceramic tiles.

In any case, regardless of the adjacent room (with high humidity or not), the insulation is frame partition must be protected on both sides from moisture penetration by steam and waterproofing layers. A steam layer is needed on the side where the room temperature is higher, a hydrolayer is needed on the side where the room temperature is lower. This necessary condition normal operation insulation without loss of its thermal characteristics. You can clarify this issue with consultants when purchasing insulation.

To retain the heat of the bath in the steam room, you can additionally cover the entire surface of the partition with foil material, because most often the thickness of the insulation in a partition with a frame made of 50x50mm bars is made to be 50mm, and such a layer is not enough to hold high temperature in the steam room. To prevent it from getting hot in the adjacent room, you need to do more thick layer insulation, but the easiest way is to cover the steam room with foil.

A frame partition in a bathhouse is made easily and naturally. In terms of thermal performance, it is higher than that made from brick or timber.

As for any wooden surface, it is necessary to antisepticize the entire frame in order to protect it from mold and cover the lining of the lining on the washing side (with high humidity) with some kind of protective composition, such as “Sauna”. The possibilities of using not only linings in finishing, but also ceramic tiles and other finishing materials.

There are several options for making a partition in a bathhouse, and the choice of material and its design depends on the specific construction conditions.