Insulate the facade. What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside?

August 28, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior finishing (plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate, etc.). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

If you have a house or dacha outside the city, then you probably had to think about how to insulate the veranda for winter accommodation. This is far from an idle question - and even if you don’t sleep there, a warm room in front of the main building significantly saves energy costs for heating.

Today I want to tell you how to make insulation in a private house with minimal costs, taking two paths separately, or combining them with each other.

Two directions in insulation

Let me make a reservation that a veranda is usually called an open or glazed room attached or built into the main building. It is noteworthy that we are not talking about heating here, therefore, it is possible to insulate both a plank and a stone extension only in other ways.

Option 1: double-glazed windows

Since we are talking about insulating the veranda in wooden house(brick, stone), then, of course, this means not an open, but a glazed room:

main source cold the temperature in this case is the windows, of which there are, of course, a lot, but this, alas, is an integral part of such a room;
therefore, we can reason like this - if we cannot reduce the number of windows in a given room, which are the main source of cold, then we need to somehow reduce the conductivity of this bridge;
the only thing we can do in this case is to install frames (plastic, aluminum, wood) with double-glazed windows (single, double, triple);
Of course, with such glazing the price of windows will increase significantly, but you get high-quality products that will not make worse interior or the exterior of the room, and even improve it;

of course, the frames themselves cannot be neglected, especially if they are made of aluminum, which is an excellent thermal conductor;
if the stained glass windows are made from this particular material, then make sure that it is “warm” aluminum, for example, as in the top schematic image.

No matter how you increase the thermal insulation capacity of the ceiling, walls and floor with your own hands, all your efforts will come to naught with single stained glass windows. It will be the same as if you put on a hat and boots, but at the same time remained in only your underwear in the cold.

Option 2: floor, ceiling, walls

One of the most powerful sources of cold in a room can be a floor that lacks hydro- and thermal insulation, especially if the building is located in northern regions our country. Let's start with waterproofing.

Any moist substance is an excellent conductor of cold, not to mention problems such as dampness and rotting. Therefore, if the shut-off waterproofing was not laid during construction, then it must be installed now.

This can be roofing felt or thick polyethylene film (I am not mentioning vapor-permeable film - it is too expensive, and besides, you can completely do without it).

And now - about materials for insulation. For example, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and, of course, expanded clay - the cheapest and most reliable component of country construction.

I would also like to say about the sand pillow, if you add it, of course. Waterproofing should be laid not on it, but under it - this way we will minimize the amount of moisture from below.

The ceiling can be insulated both from the inside and outside - it all depends on what kind of roof is on your veranda and, of course, on your desire. Regarding the material here, we can say the same thing as for the floor, but it all depends on its location - from below, of course, it is much more convenient to use polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

But, if you consider that verandas mainly have pitched roof, then there is no attic there, therefore, in 99% of cases the insulation has to be hemmed from below, that is, internal installation must be done.

In order to make internal insulation, you will have to install any of suspended ceilings, for example, like the one in the photo above, for . But insulating the veranda from the inside with your own hands in this way may not always work out for the most trivial reason - low ceilings, which, well, it’s simply impossible to lower another 5-6 cm.

In this case, there is only one thing left - to install some kind of insulation under roofing material, only with good waterproofing. And this will be more difficult, since you will have to dismantle and then reinstall the roof.

Well, finally, let's look at how to insulate a cold veranda for living space inside or outside along the walls. Let me note that there is nothing new to say here. In such cases, as a rule, mineral (preferably basalt) wool or polystyrene foam is used.

The thickness of the material directly depends on the need, that is, on the thickness and climate of the region. There is one small nuance here - if the insulation is installed outside, it will bring more benefits than from the inside, and you can see its effectiveness in the diagram above.

Another point - by insulating the room from the outside with polystyrene foam, you get the opportunity to “ wet finishing" That is, you can tile the veranda decorative plaster directly on the foam (of course, with a reinforcing plaster mesh).

Conclusion

Insulating the veranda either from boards from the inside or from any other materials from the outside is beneficial only if there are no drafts and there are windows with bags. Do you have any questions or suggestions? Write about it in the comments.

It is necessary to be able to distinguish a veranda from a terrace.

Most often, wood is used to build country houses and dachas. Wooden buildings are very easy and quick to assemble. If such a structure is well and properly insulated, then living in it will be very comfortable even in winter.

Very often, owners add a veranda to their house on their own, where they can relax on a warm evening or hide from the scorching sun during the day.

But in cold and damp weather it is additional building practically not used.

To make the room more comfortable even in winter period, you need to think about how to properly insulate a completed veranda from the inside, perhaps with your own hands.

People sometimes confuse a veranda with a terrace, let's take a short detour and look at which is which.

The terrace is an open area, so there is no point in insulating it. The veranda is an additional glazed building, so it should not be confused with a terrace.

The veranda, like the terrace, is not heated, so the air temperature in it differs little from the temperature outside.

How to insulate the floor on the veranda

If you are preparing a plan for building your house, it is better to immediately provide space for a veranda.

Thermal insulation of the floor on the veranda is one of the main stages of the entire process. Click on photo to enlarge.

Of course, nothing prevents you from adding a veranda later to an already finished house.

But with the first option, it is possible to provide a built-in veranda in advance and it will be part of your home. A attached veranda will be located outside the house. Of course, both options need to be insulated.

Insulating the veranda from the inside should start from the floor. In wooden houses, it is most often made of logs laid on the ground, to which boards are attached.

To properly insulate the floor, you will first need to remove the boards.

Place wooden blocks between the joists and secure them with screws. Now we lay insulation material between the bars.

It is best to use mineral wool, penoplex or foam plastic as insulation.

It is very important that the insulation tightly fills all the spaces between the joists.

Sheets of foam plastic are very easy to adjust to any size of logs, since this material is very easy to cut with a knife.

Mineral wool must be insulated with polyethylene or foil before installation. This is necessary to ensure that the insulation does not deteriorate from moisture.

All empty spaces must be filled with a special polyurethane foam.

The height of your insulation structure should be a few millimeters below the floor itself.

Air movement will constantly pass through such a gap, which helps remove moisture, ventilating the space, and you can avoid getting wet and rotting floor elements.

At the very end, we lay tension on the insulation boards plastic film, the edges of which are fixed with metallized tape. Only now can you lay the floorboards and move on to insulating other elements of the veranda.

Insulation of veranda walls and ceilings

How to insulate a veranda with your own hands if it is located inside a building? In this case, only insulate external walls. The walls that connect the veranda with other rooms no longer need to be insulated.

The structure of thermal insulation of veranda walls. Click on photo to enlarge.

Let us now consider the insulation technique of this option.

Initially, all walls must be covered with waterproof material. We glue strips of polyethylene or foil with horizontal lines. We close all the resulting joints with tape so that there are no gaps for air.

Then, taking into account the size of the slabs of cotton wool or foam plastic insulation, you need to fill wooden blocks on the walls. And now we place insulation between them, for example, such as mineral wool. Polystyrene foam can simply be glued to the wall surface using special glue.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

The easiest way is to insulate the walls with liquid foam, which is called polyurethane foam. This insulation ideally protects from the cold and will serve you for several decades.

It has the property of filling all the flaws and cracks with itself, creating an even layer of coating. But it is worth noting that it is not cheap, which is why it is very rarely used for private buildings.

Insulation boards must be wrapped in polyethylene foam. And if you use heat-reflecting material, then you need it metal surface place inside.

On top of this structure you can attach finishing material, such as lining and the like.

How to insulate a veranda from the inside so that the room can keep warm longer? To do this, you will also need to insulate the ceiling. Everyone already knows that warm air rises up. And if he does not encounter a good barrier, he will leave the room without hindrance. If you insulate the ceiling, then most of the heat supplied to the veranda will be stored indoors.

The ceiling of the veranda is insulated in the same way as the walls. The insulation is insulated from moisture, stuffed wooden planks To secure the insulation, the voids are filled with special polyurethane foam and the whole thing is sewn up with clapboard or other finishing material.

If you have a large part of your veranda window frames, then we recommend that you install a triple frame structure. Because heat loss for the most part goes through the windows.

Before you start insulating the veranda, you need to take care of fire safety. For insulation you should choose non-flammable materials, such as mineral wool. If a fire occurs, then your veranda, not protected by fireproof materials, will flare up at the slightest contact with fire and will burn in a very short time. a short time. Thus, during a fire, the veranda can become a real barrier for residents to escape.

If you have a terrace, then it is impossible to insulate it. You can just do additional design, which will protect you in windy weather.

The review describes an option for internal insulation of the veranda. But it is also possible to perform insulation on outside extensions. Such insulation will additionally protect wooden walls from wind and precipitation. This way they will be better preserved and last longer.

As you can see, insulating a veranda with your own hands will not be difficult; the main thing is to determine in advance what to insulate and with what, and then it’s a matter of technology.

In this part of the article about building an extension to a house, we’ll talk about internal insulation ceiling, walls and floor.

Fortunately, I have many friends whose hands grew out of place. It is fortunate that each of them specializes in a certain type of work. Having decided to insulate the newly built rooms from the inside, I called for help from a former classmate who specialized in apartment renovation.

Covering the ceiling and walls with plasterboard

Covering walls with plasterboard slabs allows you not only to insulate the room, but also to level the walls, and also achieve significant sound insulation. Once you invest money and labor in insulation, you will save on heating every year.
There is also a drawback to this construction procedure: covering the walls steals some of the usable space from the room.

Interior work of this kind can be done at any time of the year, especially if the room is heated. Minor temperature changes are not harmful to finished sheets of drywall. It was such a lucky coincidence that during the winter we managed to completely sheathe one of the rooms.

We started by installing profiles on the ceiling. For this purpose, narrow starting UD profiles were screwed strictly according to the level with dowels on two opposite walls, right at the junction of the walls and the ceiling. The wooden ceiling beams to which the wide main LED profiles will be attached go from window to window, so the starting profiles, in order to attach to the beams, must go perpendicular to them.
This means that the starting profiles will be fixed parallel to the beams, in the position of the letter P outward. The main profiles, on the contrary, are secured with self-tapping screws to wooden beams in the position of the letter P inward. On the ceiling, both edges of each segment of the main SD profile fit into the groove of the starting UD profile and were secured in them with short screws.

The distance between the profiles on the ceiling is 40cm, on the walls 60cm.
I think the principle is clear - keeping even fixed slabs in a horizontal position on the ceiling is much more difficult than when they are in a vertical position. Therefore, we will screw them on the ceiling more often, i.e. more reliable than on the walls.

When calculating the location of the profiles, it is necessary to take into account the size of the plasterboard sheets, because the joint of the sheets must be in the middle of the profile width so that the plasterboard can be secured. The sizes of 40 and 60 cm were not chosen by chance; they are determined by the width plasterboard, which is equal to 120 cm.

The profiles are fixed to the walls and ceiling with suspension plates (I chose universal 60/125 due to the length reserve). Each suspension was secured with two dowels to each wooden ceiling beam, and on the walls every 40 centimeters. This figure is not strict; it is better to attach it to a foam concrete block and brick than to cement joints between them.

Due to the curvature of the walls, the same part of the profile is adjacent to the wall, sometimes closely, sometimes at a small distance. Therefore, the next operation was to vertically align the profile to a one and a half meter level. Having leveled the profile, both edges of the suspension were bent along its perimeter. The suspension was attached to the SD with small self-tapping screws, popularly called “fleas”.

Part of the suspension plate on both sides of the profile remains free. It can be cut, but it is easier to bend it back towards the wall. In case of insulation with glass wool, they will serve as its additional holders.

The profiles are made of soft metal, so at the joints the edges of one part of the profile are slightly crushed by hand and pushed a couple of centimeters into the other part, securing everything with the same “fleas”. In principle, there is no waste left.

If ceiling profiles aligned with the starting profile of the UD, then the two outermost ones are first mounted on the walls, the rest are aligned along them.

Convenience of delivery, relative cheapness, ease of installation - these are positive characteristics given building material. Another good thing about drywall is the ability to mark with a pencil levels on its surface, the projection of profiles, and places where screws are screwed in with metal screws.

We worked mainly as a screwdriver. Cutting drywall special knife for drywall and foam. It looks the same as a paper cutter, only bigger size, blade thickness and length.

The sheet size is 1.2 m by 2.5 m, and the height is 2.35 m, the width and length of the smaller room are 3 and 4.2 m. Therefore, you get a lot of scraps that have to be fitted above/under windows and pipes. It is also good to work with solid sheets because only vertical profiles are needed for them (on the walls). When you “sculpt” the scraps, you have to additionally install horizontal profiles to securely fasten each piece of drywall around the entire perimeter. But in the end, plasterboard slabs create a flat surface. It will become ideal after puttying, then the joints of the plates and the heads of the screws will not be visible.

On the inside interior wall I considered the insulation unnecessary, but due to its curvature I decided to level the surface with plasterboard on one side.

The Izover I bought was wound into rolls of two layers. By unwinding the roll, you get a sheet 5 cm thick, which easily separates into two sheets, each 2.5 cm thick. It is worth noting that this nuance was very prudently conceived by the manufacturer. By buying one roll, you will not rack your brains over the problem of more/less insulation. For example, I laid sheets 5 cm thick on the ceiling, since only the roof protects the building from above, and 2.5 cm on the walls, since they are already insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam and half the thickness of Izover will be quite enough.

I have used this material before, insulating the roof of a barn with it. This is lightweight mineral wool, which is convenient to cut with the same drywall knife.

Since the roof is pitched, we started attaching the drywall in small pieces from the side of the ceiling above which the lower edge of the roof is located. The clearance there is minimal, therefore, having secured the first row of narrow strips of drywall, we immediately inserted the same narrow piece of Izover between it and the roof. Next, solid sheets of plasterboard were fixed to the ceiling, since the distance to the roof had become decent, and it was feasible to lay large pieces of Izover across the entire width of the room.

The same song applies to wall insulation, but the inconvenience here is of a different nature: the insulation must be kept in a vertical position until we fix the sheet of drywall. As it turned out, this issue is solved by primitively engaging the edges of the Isover with the profiles. We cut Izover with a width equal to the distance between the profiles fixed to the walls.

The result of internal insulation work

The internal insulation made itself felt literally the next day after we completed the work. At night I left the radiator in the room on the middle position. In the morning the thermometer showed +24°C, despite the fact that the temperature outside was -5°C.
I hope the “thermos” effect will also summer heat will keep you cool indoors.

And use it in winter time, it’s time to find out how to insulate a cold veranda. This procedure will also not be superfluous for creating a more favorable microclimate for the building in this room. Otherwise, it will freeze, become damp, and as a result become unusable. With a competent approach to the matter, it is better to insulate the veranda at the construction stage. But this is not always possible, either for economic or functional reasons. Each structural element (floor, ceiling and walls) has its own insulation characteristics.

When is the best time to insulate a veranda?

It’s worth noting right away that by correctly solving the problem of how to insulate a veranda for winter living, and creating a kind of thermos out of it, you can significantly reduce heating costs. This factor will also be relevant for baths. There are two fundamentally different options How to insulate a cold veranda for living space: outside and inside. If possible, it is better to use the outdoor option.

It is better to hold the event in the warm season, since there are materials that can only be used at positive air temperatures. That is, when deciding what and how to insulate the veranda of a house from the outside, you need to focus on the season and weather. If there are negative temperatures outside the windows, then it is worth considering the option of how to properly insulate the veranda from the inside. The event can be held during the construction stage of your country house. But you can solve the problem of how to insulate the veranda with your own hands already during your stay.

The vast majority of additional premises country houses built from wood. Therefore, it is worth noting that there is a fundamental difference in how to insulate a veranda from boards or wooden veranda from the inside - no. Approximately the same, adjusted for building materials, is the arrangement warm room and in buildings made of concrete, aerated blocks, bricks, etc.

We insulate the veranda in stages

When insulating the veranda, you should adhere to the following order:

roof;
walls;
ceiling;
window;
doors.

How to insulate a veranda roof

In order to solve the problem of how to insulate a veranda in a wooden house as correctly as possible, you should first inspect the roof structure. If it is a continuation of the main roof of the house, then there is no need to touch it. If this element is a simple ceiling, then it is necessary to solve the problem of how to insulate the roof of the veranda.

First, the structure is thoroughly sealed.
Next we lay thick layer insulation material. The best option for carrying out the work would be foil insulation. It will allow you to carry out the procedure quickly and with little effort.
Don't forget about the vapor barrier so that the roof doesn't get damp.

When insulating this element of the building, you should take care of the reliability of the structure, since it is difficult to access. Only after working on the roof can you move on to insulating the veranda as a whole.

How to insulate veranda walls?

To correctly solve the problem of how to insulate summer veranda, you need to start with the walls. This is advisable, since these structural elements will require less effort from the master. When choosing a technology for how to insulate the walls of a veranda, it is better to focus on the frame method. Practice shows that the insulating structure is more reliable than when using the method of gluing the material. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam can be used as insulation material. the main objective in the question of how to insulate the walls of the veranda from the inside or outside - this is to stop the access of cold to the room.

The frame method of insulation involves the use of timber, its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. Before insulating a veranda in a private house, it is better to treat the wood with impregnation to prevent the appearance of mold and fungi. A cellular structure is assembled from timber using self-tapping screws. The cell dimensions must be equal to the dimensions of the material slabs.
Now you can begin installing the insulation. The slabs are laid in cells against the frame, without cracks or gaps.
After installing the insulation material, a vapor barrier must be laid over the structure with an overlap of 10 cm. It is secured using a stapler and staples. It is better to seal the joints with tape. A vapor barrier will protect the insulation from moisture. This is very important point in the question of how to properly insulate the veranda.
Then you can sheathe the structure with any finishing material: lining, drywall, MDF boards or PVC panels. Once the walls are ready, you can move on to working on the ceiling.

How to insulate a veranda ceiling?

Everyone knows that warm air rises and forms an air cushion near the ceiling. But its presence does not prevent cold air from entering the room through cracks and gaps. Therefore, it is better to solve the problem of how to insulate the ceiling on the veranda along with other elements of the building. Many people think that these works are quite complicated, but this is not so. The main thing is to initially choose the right technology: from the outside or from the inside.

The insulation material will also depend on the chosen method:

Exterior works. If you decide to insulate the ceiling from the outside - along the floor of the attic, then it is better to choose frame technology and insulation in slabs, for example, polystyrene foam. Don’t forget to lay a vapor barrier on top of the structure. Attic insulation More often used during the construction of a house, but it can be implemented later. The advantage of insulating the ceiling from the outside is that it does not reduce the volume of internal space.
Interior work. But with the task of how to insulate the ceiling on the veranda from the inside, using frame technology, difficulties arise. If the beams are attached to the surface with screws and do not interfere with the continuation of work, then the insulation in the slabs will simply fall out of the cells under the weight of its own weight. It is recommended to immediately secure it with a vapor barrier. Immediately upon completion of installation, the cladding material should be installed. You can also install an already installed insulation structure. The work will be fundamentally simplified if foil insulation is used to insulate the room. Now you can move on to insulating the lower structural element - the floor.

How to insulate the floor of a veranda?

Before you insulate yourself wooden floor on verandas, it is worth opening up the floor covering and examining the structure to see if there are logs in it and whether they can be used. If the answer is positive, the procedure can be carried out using insulation material in slabs.

Otherwise, you will have to lay the joists on top of the existing surface.
Then fill the cells with insulating material, similar to working with walls.
And complete the work by laying a vapor barrier.
After laying the thermal insulation structure, a solid base can be laid for flooring, For example, OSB boards. It is better to seal all seams with sealants.

If you want to make your task easier, you should ask yourself how to properly insulate a wooden veranda floor with foil insulation. This is a technologically advanced material, it allows you to work with designs of any kind. geometric shapes. Foil insulation can be used to insulate buildings made of any materials.

How to insulate windows

The main heat loss in any room occurs through doors and windows. Therefore, when solving the problem of how to insulate a veranda with your own hands using polystyrene foam or other material, special attention should be paid to these openings:

The best insulation option would be to install PVC windows. You can install single-glazed windows, but this will significantly reduce the temperature balance in the room. The larger the volume of glazing, the lower the heat saving indicators.

Therefore, it is better not to save money, but to immediately install double or triple glazed windows.
The tightness of the junction of these elements should be carefully monitored. Double-glazed windows, as a rule, are foamed; in some cases, strip thermal insulation can be installed.
But PVC glazing is a very expensive undertaking. If you want to save money, you can add a second one to the existing frame. This is what our ancestors did before the onset of winter. In this case, the cracks are filled with foam rubber or other soft material, and a special tape is glued on top.

How to insulate doors

In this case the best option will be the installation of a modern front door. It was originally designed to retain heat in the room:

Companies producing and installing metal entrance doors, in their catalog, as a rule, have several models intended for installation in a private home.
If you want to avoid additional expenses, you need to insulate the structure yourself. For example, it can be covered with felt or an old stuffed blanket.
It is better to cover the structure, both from the outside and from the inside.
In order for the door to look aesthetically pleasing, a leather substitute, matting and other materials are mounted on top of the insulation.
Self-adhesive rubber seals must be installed around the perimeter of the door.
If you want to radically solve the problem of how to insulate a summer veranda, install a second internal one, this will create an additional air gap.
After completing the work, you can begin finishing the room and continue to use it in the winter.

Let's summarize

The veranda requires constant maintenance, as does the house itself. By insulating this room, you will not only expand the usable space for use in the cold season, but also save yourself from regularly updating the finishing and processing protective impregnations structural elements. It is better to carry out insulation already at the construction stage. Take advantage of our unique offer and you will receive a functional and comfortable country home at a competitive price.