How to assemble simple timber houses. How to properly assemble a log frame: from the first crown to finishing

Wood has been used as a building material since ancient times. It has many valuable qualities: high mechanical strength, low thermal conductivity, low volumetric mass, easy to process. In order to build a good residential house from timber with your own hands, you need to know the basics of construction, techniques that make work easier, and have a basic understanding of the principles of architectural and planning construction of a residential building. But main question, which will stand in front of the developer - how to assemble a log house from timber?

To build a log house from timber, you need to know all the features of this material and the basics of construction.

Timber quality

Due to the straightness of the trunk, a small number of knots and resistance to rot, pine and spruce wood is the most suitable for construction. Construction timber (round timber) is measured by the length and diameter of the top cut, without bark. Sawn wood is measured by length, width and thickness. Timber is sold by volume in cubic meters, measured in a dense body, i.e. no gaps. Standard length timber intended for sale rarely exceeds 6.5 m; this must be taken into account when choosing the type of residential building and laying the foundation for the walls. Longer building material is available upon special order.

You can assemble a log house from timber with your own hands in 2-6 months.

The quality of the timber depends on how dry the wood is. The moisture content of the timber should be 12%.

Construction time depends on the quality of the material. It must be durable, resistant to cracking, and well dried. The consequences of building walls from undried timber will be disastrous. When dry, the timber will crack, and the exterior of the house will need to be finished. Installation of doors and windows is also carried out only after the timber has dried. Optimal humidity timber 12%. When purchasing wood, you need to pay attention to appearance and structure, because it often has defects: rot, curvature, wormholes.

When choosing lumber, it is advisable to pay attention and reject timber that has large knots.

The cost of building a house from logs is much cheaper than assembling a log house from timber.

Walls of a house made of timber

saw (hacksaw);
axe;
hammer;
nails;
dowels;
construction stapler;
plane;
bucket;
plumb line;
level;
roulette.

To build walls from timber with your own hands, you need to know the technology of connecting it together. There are 2 ways to connect timber: with and without remainder.

“with remainder” makes the house warmer. But building walls in this way is not cheap, since the amount of timber waste increases and the area of the house decreases.

To lay timber in this way, a groove must be cut in each of them. The walls are built by connecting the grooves of the upper and lower beams. The simplicity of this connection method is its only advantage.

Walls that do not have external projections are laid using the “no residue” joining method. With this connection, it increases effective area at home and still have the opportunity exterior finishing Houses modern materials(for example, siding). With this method, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology of laying the timber.

The most important thing is to correctly lay the first crown of the log house. The geometry of the house depends entirely on this.

Before laying the first crown on the foundation, at least 2 layers of waterproofing (roofing felt) should be laid. Coat the horizontal surface of the foundation with bitumen solution, lay roofing material and a spacer board. Repeat this operation again. You can lay glass insulation on top of the roofing felt. Check that the surface is horizontal. To increase the service life, it is recommended to lay on top of the waterproofing layer wooden slats no more than 15 mm thick, treated with an antiseptic. The distance between the slats is no more than 25 cm. It is filled polyurethane foam.

Preparation of building material

Before assembling a log house, it is necessary to properly prepare the lumber. In order to cut out the joints in the timber equally evenly, a template is first made. First on paper, then on plywood. Since the purchased timber has the same dimensions, one template is made. The template is applied to the end of the beam and outlined. Then it is cut out. In the lower and upper crowns, the cutout is made only from the side where the adjacent crowns adjoin. This method is called a cutout “in the paw.” The main rule when constructing such log houses is not to rush into installing the first crowns. Taking into account the chosen connection method, you can already buy finished timber with grooves made in the factory.

Horizontal crowns are connected to each other by dowels, which require precise chiseling of the adjacent sides of adjacent beams. Dowels can be successfully replaced with metal dowels driven into drilled holes after 2 m. 2 dowels are made in the wall. On the beam installed in this way, you need to put a seal and then the next crown.

Assembling a log house: methods of connecting “tongue and groove” and “with dowels”

To ensure that the tenon and groove are identical, a template is pre-made. The cutout points are outlined along it from the end of each beam. They cut it out. When connecting, the groove and tenon must be pressed tightly against each other. This method of constructing walls from timber is considered optimal, because in winter conditions the corners of the house do not freeze. The first and last crown of a log house is always laid using the “paw” method.

A dowel is a wooden or metal bar, which cuts halfway into the timber being laid. This method of laying timber creates the tightest connection.

Window and door openings in a log house

For walls with windows, select 5 lower crowns, and 2-3 upper ones (depending on). For walls that have only doors, select 2 lower crowns and 5 upper ones. In addition, at the middle of the wall height it is necessary to pass 1 solid crown, which is then cut out in the openings. This crown gives strength to the walls until the construction of the log house is completed. And only when installing window and door units is it removed. In crowns, except for the bottom one, it is allowed to join short beams with a vertical ridge - no more than 1 joint per crown.

Installation window boxes in any walls must be carried out carefully, with alignment plumb, level and with filling of the gaps between the opening and the frame with foam. To avoid distortions, it is advisable to insert the boxes together with the filling.

Interventional seals

When building a house from timber with your own hands, special attention is paid to sealing the roof joints with insulation. It is advisable not to use synthetic ones. It is better to use jute fabric, Euro linen or tow.

Using a roll compactor, you can significantly reduce the time required to complete this work. The roll unfolds. Pieces of the required length are cut from it. It is placed on the lower crown, secured with a construction stapler, then the next crown goes on.

To build a house from timber, certain carpentry skills are required. The process of building a house is carried out in several stages. Laying of profiled timber must be carried out according to the developed technology in order to achieve best result. It is important to carry out appropriate calculations and select quality materials. The work carried out by specialists will help to build a house in the shortest possible time and save costs.

Laying profiled timber the right technology will provide high quality buildings Source tiu.ru

Foundation preparation

For building a house, the optimal foundation is considered to be a strip foundation. To arrange it, stones and vegetation are removed, mounds and holes are leveled. When the site is leveled, the territory is marked. After this, a trench is dug, the depth of which depends on the height of the building and the soil, the width is at least 25 cm. The profiled beam is quite light, so for a one-story building you can use a shallow foundation.

For multi-story construction or construction on unstable soil, the foundation must correspond to the freezing level of the soil. On average, this figure reaches 1.2-1.5 m.

The following materials are needed for the foundation:

concrete, sand, crushed stone;

formwork;

reinforcing rods.

Any home begins with preparing the foundation Source penza-press.ru

The trench is filled with sand and crushed stone, and a mesh is laid with rods to reinforce the foundation. It is recommended to use tying wire rather than welding to connect the rods. The formwork is laid out, and then everything is filled with concrete. For the manufacture of concrete mortar Cement, sand and crushed stone are used - all components are thoroughly mixed. The ratio of materials is 1:3:4, cement grade is at least 400. The foundation stands for about 2 weeks.

Laying the first row

For construction, only smooth and intact beams that have no visible defects are used. The laying of timber must meet all technological standards. Only light and dry materials are used; if gray sections or spots are found on it, then they cannot be used. During the construction process, roofing felt, bitumen, dowels and antiseptic are additionally laid.

For structural strength, dowels are used to fasten the beams Source myvideosait.ru

The dried foundation is covered with bitumen, roofing material on top, its width is at least 20 cm larger than the foundation, the edges hang evenly on both sides. Such waterproofing will protect the future structure from moisture. At all joints, roofing material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm, coated well with bitumen and pressed. Before assembly, you need to determine the type of connection at the corners. The cutout at the top beam of the lower part is considered advantageous, and vice versa at the bottom. This fastening option allows you to save on material, and the ends will not extend beyond the corners of the building.

All work on assembling the structure begins with marking and further cutting of the prepared material. Before assembly, the wood is treated with an antiseptic, dried, and only then holes are drilled in it every 50 cm along the beam. Two beams are laid on both sides, and on top, grooves are made in them at the ends. The row is leveled, the corners are adjusted, the protrusions are corrected with a plane.

Source giropark.ru

After securing the first row, assembling a house from timber involves installing the floor covering, as well as the base of the walls. Beams of 15x10 cm are used. Grooves of 40 cm are cut out in the beams on the inside (it is recommended to use “T”-shaped grooves), the ends of the beams must be cut off. This insertion method increases the strength of the connections. After installing the beams, they are aligned horizontally so that they are in the same plane.

Marking timber

1 – joints;

A, C/D, B – longitudinal/transverse walls;

E – partitions.

Walls can be built from solid timber and extensions, partitions/transverses - made of solid timber. An overlap of 15 cm to the floor is made in the longitudinal wall. To obtain the most accurate and identical dimensions and cutouts, it is best to use templates that will help you quickly carry out the process and transfer the contours to the timber.

All markings on the uneven bars are made using the same template Source pinterest.ru

Joining the frame, drilling holes, insulation

Dowels made of wood or metal are used to connect each crown. From the end of the beam they are located at a distance of at least 25 cm, and then every 0.9-1.5 m. For any part, even the smallest one, at least two dowels should be used, the length of which is at least one and a half times longer than the beam. The dowels must be buried several centimeters into the tree.

The holes are slightly smaller in diameter so they fit snugly. The depth of the hole is several centimeters greater than the dowels used. For drilling, use a drill with a limiter so that all dimensions are the same. The seal is carried out with a special insulation tape. The tape is stretched over the entire surface of the beam in several layers and secured with staples. On the outside, if the wall is not sheathed, the gasket is made at a distance of several centimeters so that it does not get wet.

The beams are laid overlapping each other, the edges are secured with dowels Source rwhouse.ru

Walling

The log house can be tied in several ways:

in a paw or bowl - for round logs;

on the main tenon - for a rectangular section, a labor-intensive method, but it ensures a high density of joints.

The dowels used can be made of wood or metal. Standard sizes height 12-15 cm, thickness 2.5 cm, the holes for them should be several centimeters deeper. The laid row is adjusted in the corners, the insulation is laid and the next crown of logs is placed on top, then the dowels are driven in. The insulation can be tow, felt or jute. The materials are fixed with a stapler. When several rows have been assembled, openings for windows and doors are cut out, and holes are made on the cuts to ensure air exchange. On the last two rows, grooves are made for the ceiling.

At a sufficient level of timber laying, openings for windows and doors are cut Source iskona.org

When assembling walls, one must take into account the fact that virtually all the beams will differ by millimeters from each other, which can negatively affect the result. Therefore, you can make a flat side only from the inside or outside. Sometimes you will come across a bent or twisted beam. It is recommended to cut the former into small pieces, and use the latter for various outbuildings on the site, bathhouses, or use for other purposes. A beam curved in one plane cannot be used for walls, expecting that it will level out under the weight of other materials - this will not happen. Curved timber can be laid into a wall only by leveling it horizontally and sequentially fixing it with dowels.

During operation, the assembly is constantly checked and the following parameters are monitored. If any deviations are detected, further work is stopped until the problems are resolved. Special attention paid to the height of the corners and verticality. In case of problems with verticality, the problem is eliminated until the beams are replaced. In this case, the height of the corners can be adjusted by spacers between the rims.

All corners in the house, vertical and horizontal, must be 90° Source cocinandote.com

Assembly timber house can be carried out in two ways of laying timber - with or without residue. In the first case, you can get a warmer and more stable house with the simplest possible construction scheme. However, the material will be consumed with a large amount of waste, increased installation costs and a smaller building area. In addition, such a house is very difficult to insulate or cover with siding. In the second case, there will be no convex walls, so additional finishing and insulation can be carried out, and the total space inside increases. But it is very important to adhere to all the technology so that the house is not blown out.

Openings for doors and windows

The formation of a doorway begins with the 2nd crown, the height to the window is at least 70 cm. The formation of openings can be carried out in two ways. “Rough” opening in preparation for creating the opening. The opening itself is prepared for installation after the timber shrinks. The assembly of the structure is accelerated; beams are installed in the openings to secure the walls.

Source krsk.au.ru

In the second option, they immediately prepare for installation, installing decks that connect the beams and act as slopes. If installation will be carried out metal-plastic windows, then you don’t have to place the decks. A vertical groove is made at the ends along the opening into which the rail is inserted. The slats/blocks are made 5-7 cm smaller than the opening so that it does not interfere with shrinkage.

Installation of windows and doors with a “rough” opening is carried out by cutting it to the appropriate dimensions. The joints are sealed using insulation; it must be nailed at an angle. Then the window frame is inserted, fixed to the deck with self-tapping screws, there is a gap on top for shrinkage, it is filled with soft insulation.

When installing a window frame, be sure to leave gaps for shrinkage Source patter.ru

Roof assembly

The beams are laid at a distance of 90-110 cm from each other, if the attic is used as a living space, then 15-20 cm beams are used, non-residential beams - 10-15 cm. Afterwards, fastening is carried out support posts and rafters. For the lathing, boards approximately 15 cm wide and a maximum thickness of 2 cm are used. The distance between the rafters depends entirely on the weight of the ceiling, the standard is 1.2 cm, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws or nails. Maximum attention is paid to the fasteners of the support posts. Waterproofing is applied to the sheathing, and then the roofing covering.

Video description

Briefly, the process of building a house from timber is shown in this video:

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer turnkey construction of houses from profiled timber. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Conclusion

Laying profiled timber requires certain knowledge and skills. It is very important to prepare quality material and follow all construction technology. Only in this case can you get a good, warm and durable house, bathhouse or other building. Profiled timber is different favorable price and light weight, so it allows you to further save on the foundation.

I wanted to build a house. I immediately encountered the problem of choosing a material. There wasn’t much money, but I wanted a house that was reliable, warm and durable. Having studied the offers of the modern construction market, I decided to settle on

On the forums they advise building houses with a cross-section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build it myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn’t want to involve outside workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a cross-section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the outside walls with mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction costs, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of guidance and navigate the situation.

Pouring the foundation

First, I cleared the area under the house from debris, bushes and other things that were in the way. After this, I began laying out the foundation.

I had to think for a long time about what type of foundation would be suitable specifically for my area. I studied the geological conditions, learned the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. Specialized reference literature helped me with this. Additionally, I asked my neighbors what foundations their houses were on.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the construction of foundations, so most neighbors have houses on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse reinforcement - such is the wonderful soil we have. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not “heaving”. The water runs deep and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need to install buried monolithic supports in my region.

I started by digging a trench. To begin with, I removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. To make it seal better, I filled it with water. Then he lined the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars. I tied them up in the corners. I think that the tape is best reinforced both at the bottom and at the top. So I did.

To save yourself from unnecessary work, you could order a ready-made construction concrete with delivery. However, in my region this turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And my plot is such that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don’t need that.

Alas, you won’t be able to save this much in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the Moscow region, I would have to make formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour in the building mixture.

While the concrete gains strength (and it needs 3-4 weeks for this), I will start preparing consumables.

Prices for timber

Find out more detailed nuances, from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Preparing dowels

The connection of the beam crowns is carried out using wooden dowels. I decided to make them from scrap boards left over from other construction projects. In my case it was the installation of roof sheathing.

For dowels, use wood that is as hard as possible. The process of making fasteners is extremely simple. I took some scrap boards and edged them on one side using a matching saw.

Then I set the stop and started sawing to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I received neat and beautiful blanks.

I sawed the planks using band saw. On the way out I received a whole box wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my dowels.

Moss preparation

Dowels, sphagnum peat moss and boards

The technology requires that between each crown of timber be laid. Professionals usually insulate roll materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - just roll out the material on top of the laid crown and you can continue working. However, convenience and ease of processing come at a price.

I decided not to waste money and use moss. Firstly, this material is abundant in nature - go and collect it. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulator, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally, I studied thematic forums: moss is actively used as interventional insulation, and there are no negative reviews about it.

Red or peat moss is best suited for insulation. The first is characterized by high rigidity. The second one becomes brittle after drying. If possible, it is best to use red moss. It is easy to recognize - it has long stems with leaves that resemble a Christmas tree.

Making joints

I make them for every door and window opening. For this I use a flat beam. If possible, there should be no knots at all. For greater convenience, I made an impromptu workbench directly next to my stack of lumber. Made longitudinal cuts. A circular saw helped me with this. Excess material was removed using a chisel.

Not even every professional carpenter can make the right joint. Therefore, I decided to make window jambs using simplified technology. In every window opening I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. The window block itself will be responsible for the horizontal connection.

To install the block you need a “quarter”. However, here too I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of sampling (it's shaded in the photo), I decided to glue in a strip. To do this, I sharpened the plane in advance. The result was no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be significantly simplified.

I chose grooves in the block, which in the future will serve as a threshold, similar to the recesses in the side jambs. This allowed me to slide the bottom timber over the tenons of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - not the most pleasant or simple task. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts by first setting the appropriate blade exit and making a rip fence.

Then I took feather drill and made a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm, as for dowels. Finally, I cut out an even rectangle across the wood grain. A reciprocating saw helped me with this.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the threshold, and at the bottom of each vertical jamb they create a counter protrusion, cutting down and sawing out excess wood using a chisel. I decided to make holes as for fastening dowels, and hammered in a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.

I haven’t touched the upper horizontal beam yet, but I nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take on the functions of a “quarter”. The design of the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but it was difficult to cope with main function it doesn't bother him. Later I will plan the opening and glue the “quarters”.

Required Tools

To build a house from wooden beams, I used the following tools and devices:

hammerless electric drill;
circular saw;
roulette;
sledgehammer;
electric plane;
square;
reciprocating saw;
plumb line;
hammer;
water hose;
axe.

I bought a circular saw to cut wooden beams. I had to cut in two steps. First, I drew a line along the square, after which I cut, turned the beam over and made the cut again. It is best to transfer the line to the second edge of the beam using a square. If you are confident in your “eye”, you can cut “by eye”.

Using a circular saw, I made tenons and grooves for corner connections bars When arranging the tenons, I lacked a slight depth of cut, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

We are building a house

Rules for laying the lower crown

Laying the starter crown is traditionally done with a joint known as "into the wood floor". This unit can be made without any problems with a circular saw - just cut the material lengthwise and crosswise. In some areas the depth of the cut turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material using a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

I placed the lower crown on board linings. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make vents there. In my region they are usually in the wall, not in concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, making vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation the wind moves at a higher speed than directly near the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.

Cutting timber. Half-tree connection

I'm going to mount the floor beams on the pads - this way, I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.

The linings and timber of the lower crown were covered. As practice shows, the material laid at the very bottom rots most quickly. In my situation, there are pads underneath, and not the timber itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the beam of the lower crown.

Reciprocating saw prices

reciprocating saw

Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners I connected the timber with the help of root tenons - the usual joining of elements is unacceptable here.

Taking a circular saw, I trimmed a couple of cuts. I transferred the cutting line to the second face using a square. The root tenon is easy to do, everything is demonstrated in the photo. If the disk output is insufficient, the depth can be increased with a hacksaw. The groove is made even simpler. Also demonstrated, but in the photo.

Important note! Keep in mind that in tongue-and-groove joints there should be approximately a 0.5-centimeter gap for laying the seal. A connection in which the wood simply touches the wood is unacceptable.

I first set the cutting depth I needed. With my saw, you can change the output of the blade without any problems - you just need to loosen the lever. The add-on is convenient to use. If in traditional carpentry production the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares required amount blanks of the same type, then in carpentry the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the depth of the cut is adjusted directly as the work progresses.

My saw is equipped with a thin disk - it takes much less effort to cut. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut in any way.

The walls of my house will be longer than the timber, so I will have to join the building material. To do this, I made a notch at both ends of the long beam, removed the excess with a chisel, and got a tenon in the middle. The ledge is ready, now we need a groove. Cutting wood with a chisel across the grain is impractical. I used a trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second beam. The length of the drill was not enough to create through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off the excess wood from the workpiece, made markings and cut the timber along the grain using a chisel. Connected the spliced beams. The gaps were filled with moss.

Helpful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting timber, it will not be possible to completely make tenons with a saw; you will need to additionally chisel with a chisel to complete the process. In the next photo you see the beams already with fastening spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.

I laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly performing the corner joints and the necessary splices along the length. It's time to make markings for installing dowels - the connectors of the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and made vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners would be placed. Turned over the top beam. I moved the markings to the center of my beam. Then I drilled holes for the fasteners and drove the dowels into them using a hammer.

What do you need to know about dowels?

Logically in round hole it would be necessary to drive in a round dowel. Builders adhere to a different technology and use dowels square section. Such fasteners are simpler to manufacture and hold the connection much more reliably. In this case, a short dowel will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.

The problem is that to drill hand drill a strictly vertical hole without the slightest deviation is impossible. When installing the beam of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding dowel, the first one will wobble a little. In order for the timber to be firmly fixed, it must be additionally hammered with a sledgehammer.

The dowels I use work for shear and ensure correct shrinkage even if there are slight deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no gaps. Firstly, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.

Once I had to watch how builders made holes in a wall made of timber using long drill and they drove long round pins into them, outwardly similar to the handles of a shovel or a rake. Were such holes vertical? Naturally not. Ultimately, the beam did not settle, but seemed to “hang” on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having driven in the dowels, I laid tow and moss on the crown. He laid the tow across the beams. The moss was simply thrown over the tow. As a result, tow hangs from the walls. This will make it easier for me to caulk the walls in the future. Moss will provide adequate insulation of the building.

I installed the beams on the dowels, laid the tow, threw on the moss, sieged the crown with a sledgehammer, but for some reason it is still wobbly. This happens due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I filled them tightly with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.

The attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Shouldn't it be put in the corners too? No no need. Firstly, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand for quite a long time without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will continually flow into the corners. Moss will prevent the wood from rotting in these places. Secondly, in the future the timber in the corners will probably have to be planed. Moss will not interfere with this. Tow can cause the plane to break.

Prices for tow

Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day I covered the corner joints to protect them from possible precipitation.

In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to immediately turn on the electric planer - such a problem can be easily dealt with using a simple sledgehammer.

I worked with a plane at the very end, when the obstacle to the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. I used a plane to compare small “screws” and “humps”. I compensated for more significant differences in height with the help of tow and moss - their arrangement takes much less time than processing wood with a plane.

Why should we build a house?

You have already become familiar with the basic principles of laying each crown. Eat important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the internal load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding I use an already proven and familiar connection. Only I drill the holes for the dowels “checkerboard” in relation to the lower rims. After this, I lay down the tow and moss, and placing each beam in its designated place, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:

I'm laying out another crown;
I make markings for dowels;
I drill holes;
I drive in wooden fasteners;
I lay down the tow and throw moss on it;
I repeat the sequence.

Along the length of the beams I join using the “staggered” method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (this is my seventh crown), I made markings for arranging the window openings. I calculated the width of each opening by adding the dimensions of the jambs and sealed gaps to the width of the purchased window block. There should be a pair of gaps on each side of the opening - between the jamb and the one being installed. window block, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of this, 155 mm was spent on gaps.

Based on the calculation results, I installed a crown with a window opening, having previously cut tenons in the bars, similar to the stage with openings for doors.

The next crowns with a window opening were laid from timber without tenons, observing the same overall dimensions.

I constructed all the window openings from “short pieces”, the evenness of which was disrupted during the shrinkage of the timber - such material is not suitable for walls, and it would be a pity to throw it away. I didn't make any jumpers. While arranging the opening, I constantly checked its evenness using a plumb line. I also checked the walls.

I temporarily secured the separate partition with slats so that it would not fall during the work. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not require additional strengthening - they are perfectly supported by their own weight.

Important note! In places where the tenons of the opening and the cutting line are arranged, i.e. just a few centimeters from the edge, I did not lay the oakum, because... when cutting it would wrap around cutting disc. In the future, the tow can be tapped from the ends without any problems.

After laying the last crown with the window opening (it needs to be laid temporarily without fastening or compacting), I removed the top beams and made cuts for the tenons. He put blunts on them. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, I installed a parallel stop to maintain the required distance from the edge. It didn’t take me much time to do this kind of work. Cut the timber into desired depth I couldn't do it with a circular saw - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.

IN lower crown opening I made tenons to control my assembly. I didn’t do this in the last crown - in the future, tenons will still have to be created in each beam.

On personal experience I was convinced that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, and from not quite “short” ones, is not the easiest task.

Light and short cuttings can be tried on before creating a recess or tenon. It may well turn out that a block deviating to the right will fall on a beam that deviates to the left. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams have a deviation in the same direction, you can’t count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, you can plan out the “screws” using a plane or lay the timber “ladder”. I had exactly the second case. I also eliminated the gap using a plane. At each stage, I checked the verticality of the openings being constructed using a plumb line.

Installing jambs and finishing work

The upper crown was laid. It's time to install the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, strength will be significantly increased finished design. The bottom beam of each opening is equipped with a full-fledged tenon. On the upper beams there are cuts in the required places. I apply the guide, set the desired cutting depth and make the cut with a circular saw. After this, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the dimensions of the tenon and get rid of excess material using a chisel.

My tenons are smaller than the grooves. I fill the gaps with thermal insulation material. If you wish, you can make the tenons wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut off the excess material and fill the gaps with sealant.

I inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to add a veranda to my house. If you are planning to make an extension, do not lay the top crown of the timber before starting its construction. I also mounted a smaller one on the crown.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until the next season. The timber will have time to shrink. After that I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.

Instead of a conclusion

While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was glad that we had to spend a lot on the foundation less money, when compared with supports of other types. It took a little money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig it yourself and bring it. Most of the money was spent on cement and reinforcement.

Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable cost and relatively low consumption of building materials. When the timber was delivered to me, I laid it out in a stack about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I had miscalculated somewhere and that I would not have enough material. As a result, about 20 beams remained unused. In general, for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part of it is 6x7.5 m), I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a cross-section of 15x10 cm. For timber 15x15 cm I would have spent 1.5 times more money. Yes and additional labor you would have to hire, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Nageli made it himself, the moss is free. My friends gladly gave the oakum to me after finishing their construction work.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will be useful to me on the farm in the future. I am especially pleased to have purchased a good circular saw and concrete mixers.

Now about the speed of work. I didn’t have much experience in timber construction. As practice has shown, in a whole day, working with one hand and provided the weather is good outside, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can do this either faster or slower, I won’t argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that you do not need to have any special skills to carry it out. And I was personally convinced of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you can, just like me, make your dream of owning your own home come true.

Video - DIY timber house

Houses made of wood have always been considered the warmest, most comfortable and environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is not surprising that in our time many owners of suburban areas dream of building a wooden dwelling.

What will we talk about:

We build from timber

Today, instead of traditional logs, they can be used for this purpose. wooden beam. This is a new generation material, characterized by durability and remarkable appearance, and assembling buildings from it is so simple that even non-specialists can handle it.

The advantages of buildings made from this lumber also include:

High thermal insulation, which is several times higher than similar properties of others building materials and allows you to significantly save on energy.
· The beam is more than twice as strong as logs, it does not crack.
·For the manufacture of the material, polyurethane glue, safe for humans and the environment, is used.
· Houses made of timber, unlike log houses, are practically not subject to shrinkage, so the construction and interior decoration will take much less time.

Material selection

Before you start building a house with your own hands, you need to choose a material. In today's building materials market, manufacturers offer several types of timber, which differ in their functional characteristics.

The most durable and resistant to external influences considered laminated timber. He is shown in the photo below.

For its production, well-dried lamellas are used. Due to the fact that all areas with various defects, laminated veneer lumber becomes more durable, and its appearance improves. Next, the lamellas are tenoned and glued so that the different layers of wood fibers complement each other. This method of assembling the timber makes it very durable and resistant to pressure. Assembling a house from laminated veneer lumber is quite simple.

Today they also produce profiled timber (on bottom photo). Its main difference is the presence of special grooves that facilitate the assembly of the structure. It can be solid or glued, rectangular or D-shaped.

The main difference between glued material is that it does not shrink. You can start finishing the walls immediately after finishing the assembly. Profiled lumber may shrink slightly, but it is many times less than that of a wooden frame.

The answer to the question: how much it costs to assemble a house from profiled timber depends on what thickness of the material you choose and what degree of humidity it will have.

Material calculation

If you decide to assemble a dwelling from timber with your own hands, initial stage construction, calculations should be made of the volumes of required building material. To do this, the perimeter of the future building is calculated and multiplied by the expected floor height. The resulting result is multiplied by the thickness of the lumber. The result will be a number equal to the quantity cubes of material to build one floor. Wood should be added to the resulting volume to assemble interior partitions.

Preparing for assembly

To properly assemble a house from timber with your own hands, you need to follow some recommendations. All lumber is carefully inspected and sorted. Next, plan off all noticeable irregularities from the surface. Following the project, the length of each beam is determined, trimmed and marked. To speed up the assembly process, you must first prepare the dowels and drill holes for them. All prepared timber is laid out on the side of the wall where they will be laid.

Construction stages

Before assembling a house from 150x150 timber, you should prepare the foundation. Its depth and type depend on the size of the house being built and the characteristics of the soil on the site. After the foundation has matured sufficiently, you can begin laying the first crown. If you are assembling a house with your own hands, be sure to take into account the advice of experts: do not lay the first crown immediately on the foundation.

This is the place most exposed to moisture, so it is worth laying a board between the concrete and the timber, which can be easily replaced if necessary. Its thickness must be at least 50 mm. Before laying, the board is treated with an antiseptic solution.

After laying the first contour layer of beams, crown laying is performed. To seal the joints between previous and subsequent rows, jute is used. To strengthen the structure, every two beams are connected using dowels.

To prevent lumber from deforming in the area of window and door openings, part of the timber is laid according to the dimensions of the wall. After shrinkage has taken place, the unnecessary wood is cut down.

The floor of the first floor and the attic are insulated with a layer mineral wool. After 3-4 months you can start internal work. Before this, all the walls are inspected again. If cracks appear on the surface of the beams during shrinkage, they must be repaired; the cracks are caulked with jute.

The top of the walls can be varnished. It will protect the wood from moisture and ultraviolet rays. To reduce costs paint and varnish materials, the walls are being sanded. In addition, the coating applied to a smooth sanded surface will last longer.

Step-by-step instructions on how to assemble a house from timber in the video below. This video describes everything in detail necessary steps work.

To ensure that the house you build is reliable and lasts for decades, do not forget about the following recommendations.

Before assembling the structure, the material is planed and chamfered.
Nails cannot be used to secure beams; dowels are suitable for this purpose. For a beam 6 m long, you will need four dowels (two at the edges and two in the middle at the same distance from each other).
From more smooth beams walls are assembled; material with a slight curvature is used for short sections in areas of door or window openings.
To assemble the corners, use a tongue-and-groove connection.

A house properly assembled from glued or profiled timber will last for decades, allowing you to enjoy warmth and comfort.

Wood is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials, so the desire to have wooden house quite understandable. Timber buildings are becoming popular today, so construction companies already offer ready-made options, but they are usually not cheap. Making a house from timber with your own hands is not particularly difficult, so we will now look at the principles of this matter.

At correct processing and laying wood, the structure turns out to be durable, but in practicality it cannot be compared even with frame house. Not long ago, wood for buildings was taken whole log due to difficulties in processing it. Now a popular option is timber. We will tell you how to build a house from timber.

Peculiarities

During construction, timber has a significant advantage over logs - less of it is needed, but there are also disadvantages. The seams between adjacent products are poorly protected from all kinds of precipitation, so they require special treatment. You can sheathe a structure made of timber with a certain material, but if this is not planned, then a chamfer of 20 by 20 mm must be removed from each timber.

The timber may also be subject to helical deformation, but modern technologies helped get rid of this by creating a profiled beam with complex “protection”. Manufacturers of the material dry it thoroughly, which helps avoid shrinkage.

There is also glued laminated timber with increased strength indicators. Its important advantage is geometric stability, which does not allow the material to change shape under the influence of moisture.

Assembly technology

You can buy a ready-made kit for construction at the manufacturing plant and, upon arrival at the site, simply assemble it according to the plan. During installation, ties are used - metal pins with a special anti-corrosion coating. They are necessary for reliable fixation of the bars in a certain place.

Assembly order:

Foundation.
Geometry check.
Laying waterproofing followed by installation of the first level of timber.
The material is stitched longitudinally with a cross for attractiveness.
Assembling beams on wooden dowels with laying insulation between them.
After the walls are erected, they are mounted interfloor ceilings, including floor beams.
Rafter system. When developing it, 2% shrinkage of laminated veneer lumber is taken into account. The design uses sliding rafter fastenings.
Laying roofing.
Interior arrangement. Insulation of floors and walls, production of partitions and other work. This stage also includes the laying of utility lines.
Terrace. If it is provided, then it is necessary to start laying the floor from a special impregnated board, made with the expectation of long-term operation when exposed to external factors.
Installation of windows and doors.

Now let's look at the main points of how to build a house from timber in a little more detail.

Foundation

The foundation can be columnar, strip and slab. Columnar foundation is one of the simplest. To make it, you need asbestos-cement pipes, which will need to be inserted into the prepared holes. This type of foundation also has the disadvantage of a lack of connection between the resulting pillars. It is more practical to choose a pile analogue, in which the piles are connected by a reinforced concrete slab.

Slab foundation – reinforced concrete slab, on which construction will continue. It will require concrete and reinforcement in large quantities.

Strip foundations are the most common due to the many options with different functionality. For heavy loads, a type of foundation with the same cross-section is used, while for light houses a shallowly buried type is used, which costs less but is not inferior in reliability.

Walls

The walls must be assembled directly on the site. At the corners, the timber can be connected in one of two ways - with or without a protrusion. First, the strapping crown is laid on the prepared foundation and connected into half a tree. This type of fastening is used regardless of the selected connection of subsequent rows. The first floor should be about three meters high. When the walls are laid to the required level, they make the ceiling and begin the second floor, if one is planned.

You cannot build turnkey houses from timber! You need to first install the timber frame for shrinkage, and only do everything in the second stage, 4–6 months after the shrinkage Finishing work, otherwise there may be big trouble.

Materials

The sealant is used very often for wooden houses. Moss, felt or hemp are sold in convenient rolls, so cut into strips required sizes they are quite simple.

Floor

Insulation plays an important role in laying the floor, so the structure is made double. Insulation is placed between the two layers, which also soundproofs the room well. By using edged boards a subfloor is created.

It is customary to hem this material from the bottom, but such fastening is not reliable. To improve the characteristics of the building, a cranial beam is used, which must be attached to the joists.

By following simple rules, you can easily build any shaped house from timber. Such buildings are distinguished by practicality, speed of construction and aesthetics.