How best to level the ceiling. Easy leveling of the ceiling with putty for finishing

1. As you know, the quality of the ceilings in our apartments leaves much to be desired. Meanwhile, the ceiling is the most noticeable part of the interior, and therefore
how smooth and solid our ceiling looks depends largely on the overall impression, which can be irreparably spoiled by the difference caused by
unevenly laid floor slabs, and simply cracks at the junctions of these same slabs. What to do? You can contact a construction company
but their services can cost us a pretty penny; not everyone can afford their services. All that remains is to do the repairs yourself.
We will tell you how to level the ceiling with your own hands in our article.

Methods for leveling ceilings

2 . There are two main types of ceiling leveling work - using putty and “dry”.
The first includes a method that uses putty, usually of two types: starting and finishing. The second is used for rooms with a large difference in ceiling heights or if it is necessary to cover any communications under the ceiling.

If the difference does not exceed 2 cm, it is enough to apply two layers of putty. To level out differences from 2 to 5 cm, you can also use putty, but additional reinforcement is required.
The dry method is used for differences of more than 5 cm. This type includes plasterboard ceilings, ceilings made of plastic panels and suspended ceilings.

Putty is usually sold in the form of a dry powder, so in order to start using it, you need to prepare an aqueous solution.
In a container with warm water(the amount of water is determined by the manufacturer and indicated on the packaging), carefully pour in the powder and mix thoroughly
construction mixer. If you do not have a construction mixer, you can use a hammer drill with a special attachment.

The mixture is thoroughly mixed until smooth. After stirring, the mixture should sit for 15-30 minutes.
You should know that the “wet” method implies compulsory training ceiling base before applying putty. The base is cleaned of dust and dirt
and primed. If there are greasy stains on the base, they should be removed with a solvent. After the base is ready, apply putty.

This work is most conveniently carried out using two spatulas - a small one (the putty is placed from the container onto a wide spatula) and a wide one.
a spatula used to apply leveling putty to the ceiling. The putty should be applied with smooth, wide movements. When applying putty,
The spatula is held at an acute angle to the ceiling. Each layer of putty is applied “at a time”. A layer of putty
applied at a time should not exceed 1.5 cm. If the height difference is greater given value, then the putty is applied in two stages.

ceiling putty ceiling putty

First, the first layer is applied, it is allowed to dry, after which it is primed. Then the next layer is applied. In addition, as we wrote earlier, if application is required
layer more than 2 cm, reinforcement is required. Reinforcement is performed using a special mesh, which is glued to the base, or fixed using special brackets.

After the putty has dried, it must be sanded, smoothing out all the sag and differences. To perform this type of work, we recommend using
a hammer drill with a special nozzle, after which another layer of the same putty is applied - the so-called “leveling” layer.

The better you apply the first layer, the easier it will be to level it.
When the putty has dried, the finishing putty is applied. The finishing putty is applied in two layers, with a break of 3-4 hours. Now we give
Allow the putty to dry thoroughly and sand the surface until it reaches a perfectly smooth state.

Sanding the ceiling

Sanding is done with sandpaper or a sanding block using smooth circular movements.
After the surface has been sanded, it must be primed. The next day we paint the surface. As a rule, for this
used water-based paint, white or some other soft shade.
As for “dry” methods of ceiling leveling, the choice of one or another coating depends on the financial capabilities of the owner of the premises.

Prime the ceiling

The most budget-friendly option would be to use plasterboard sheets, attached to metal frame. Special attention should be paid
installation of the frame, since a poorly secured frame can lead to cracks at the joints of the sheets.
Unfortunately, within the framework of this article it is not possible to dwell in more detail on the description of each type of “dry” ceilings. But on our website you can find separate articles,
in which the question of how to level a ceiling using plasterboard sheets, plastic panels, and suspended ceilings is discussed in detail.

Video: How to level a ceiling with putty

In this article we will look at the method of leveling the ceiling with plaster and gypsum mixtures. It is optimal for old apartments with low and uneven ceilings, since it practically does not “remove” heights in comparison with suspended systems.

Preparing the base

Preparing the base is perhaps the dirtiest and dustiest part of the job when leveling a ceiling using plaster or gypsum mixtures. Where to start work, you ask, and we will answer you - first of all, you need to completely vacate the premises. If it is impossible to do this, cover all things plastic film and seal it tightly with tape, because dust and debris cannot be avoided in any way.

First we need:

Sharp spatula;
Bucket;
washcloth;
Respirator.

So, let's start repairing our ceiling:

Removing old paint

First, no matter how stupid it may sound, you should start with destruction. Namely, to remove traces of the latest repairs that have accumulated over the years (read). Remove all layers of whitewash, water-based and other types of paint from the ceiling with a spatula. To do this, you just need to rip everything off mechanically.

Tip: Alternatively, you can attach a long handle or stick to the spatula, which will give you the opportunity to work with both hands, which will make the task much easier.

To make the task easier, you can use the so-called “ wet method». First, wet the ceiling with water using a roller, brush or spray bottle.. Let it soak thoroughly and rip it off without waiting for it to dry.

Tip: When removing layers of whitewash and plaster, the spatula must be sharp, so it is recommended to sharpen it from time to time.

There are several methods that have been proven over the years that can make our task much easier.:

To soften old whitewash you can use hot water.
It will be much easier to remove water-based paint by using an aqueous solution of iodine. To do this, dissolve one bottle per bucket (about 10 liters) and saturate the ceiling with this mixture using a roller or brush.
Paints such as enamels or water-dispersed ones are not washed off with water. They have to be removed only mechanically (read further). You can also make your work easier by using a grinder or a drill with a wire attachment, however, this will increase the amount of dust to the point of impossibility.
There are many products on the market for removing such paints. They are applied to the surface and after 15-20 minutes are removed with a spatula along with the paint.

Removing plaster

The next step is to check the integrity of the plaster. All places where the plaster layer is loose or falling off must be eliminated with a spatula down to the base. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the seams between the panels and tapping them with a hammer to ensure reliability. After all, over time, all houses shrink, their panel ceiling “walks” a little and shifts, as a result of which the mortar in the joints begins to fall off. Tap the seams between the floor panels and, if necessary, remove the mortar

Sealing interpanel seams

Now you can proceed directly to repairing the ceiling. The first step before leveling the ceiling will be to seal the seams between the panels.

It's done like this:

The seam between the panels is filled polyurethane foam and left until completely hardened.
All seams should be treated with a primer to ensure high-quality adhesion of the mortar to concrete surface panels.
Seal the seam between the panels with Rotband.
A sickle mesh is glued to the Rotband.
Level the putty to the level of the panels and smooth it. Sealing method interpanel seams(Rustov)

It should be noted that the use of serpyanka for large and uneven seams does not exclude the appearance of cracks in the future (see). In this case, it would be better to use a plaster fiberglass mesh, gluing it in layers.

Getting ready for leveling

Now we need to measure the horizontal line of the ceiling and set the beacons. But if you are not concerned about how horizontal your ceiling is, and you just want to remove the differences between the panels, you can skip this step. Without installing beacons (when leveling only on a plane), the thickness of the layer is significantly reduced, which means that less materials will be consumed. True, most people, for some reason or because of pedantry, cannot come to terms with the idea that their ceiling will be sloping.

In this case, there are several options:

If there is a large deviation from the horizontal, only suspended or suspended ceilings can save you.
If the difference is within 5 centimeters, you can use plaster and install beacons.

Before installing beacons, you need to determine the lowest point of the ceiling:

Using a tape measure, measure the distance from floor to ceiling in all corners of the room. Shortest distance and will turn out to be the lowest point of the ceiling.
With help laser level or hydraulic level, it is necessary to mark the height of this point along the perimeter of the room. It will be easier to do this if you mark only the corners and use a tapping cord. To do this, stretch the cord between the marks and, slightly pulling it away from the wall, release it - you will get a clear and even line.
Every 60-80 centimeters, screw screws into a line on two opposite walls. Stretch a construction line across the room and, pulling it tight, tie it to the heads of the screws. Such a landmark will greatly simplify our task of installing beacons.
Next, glue the lighthouse profile to the ceiling using Fugenfüller or Rotband putty using the dot method in increments of 30 centimeters. This means applying putty dots to the ceiling and gluing the profile by lightly pressing. All beacons must be aligned along a fishing line stretched perpendicularly.
The last thing that is required in preparation for applying plaster layers is to remove the putty protruding beyond the beacons and prime the entire ceiling.

Leveling with mixtures

When the base is ready, you can proceed directly to applying leveling layers of putty.

They have their own operating characteristics that need to be mentioned.:

When mixing putty, do not make a larger batch than you can use in 20-25 minutes.
After the putty is mixed and left for several minutes, do not add water or dry mixture to it. This has a very negative effect on the quality of its structure.
Do not dry the ceiling in a draft.
The layer applied at one time should not exceed permissible value(it is indicated on the bag).

After kneading, apply the mixture to the ceiling with a small spatula and lightly level it.

Tip: Before applying each layer, it is very important to let the previous one dry completely. After all, if the technology is violated, all our work may simply fall off over time, despite the price and quality of the putty.

Each layer should be tightened using the rule according to the installed beacons.

After the leveling layer has dried, it must be checked using a rule for the absence of unevenness. To do this, simply run the pressed rule along the surface of the ceiling - it should be completely adjacent. All protrusions can be removed using sandpaper, and the holes should be filled with putty.

Finishing the ceiling

The last stage will be gluing the mesh at the junction of the panels and finishing putty:

When the leveling layer is ready, it needs to be treated with a primer.
Before finishing the putty on the ceiling, it is worth gluing fiberglass in the places where the panels join (rusts) to avoid the appearance of cracks.
Fiberglass is glued over the leveling layer by pressing it into a fresh layer of putty.
After the putty has dried, carefully remove all protrusions with a spatula and sand the surface with sandpaper.
All that remains is to apply two more layers of the finished product. finishing putty"Acrylic-putz" or "Shitrock". The process can be seen in more detail in the photo below.
The final sanding will finish off all our dusty work on the ceiling.

Painting

Before painting, you should remove dust from the room and prime the ceiling. It is not necessary to use special primers for this purpose, just apply the first layer with well-diluted paint. The thinner you need to select is only the one specified by the manufacturer on the packaging.. You should not experiment: if the paint is water-based, then when diluting it you can only use water.

Tip: The painted ceiling should not be dried in a draft, as upper layer becomes crusty, but the bottom one remains wet and the plastic properties of the coating are destroyed.

We hope that after reading this article, you learned how to properly level the ceiling. Now doing ceiling repairs at home with your own hands will not be any problem.

Finishing work in any room, be it a residential building, a store or an office, begins with the design ceiling surface. For this there are different ways, but most of them require preliminary leveling of the ceiling. There are several ways to carry out this operation.

This procedure is recommended when the ceiling is too blocked, making use not only impractical, but also dangerous. Before starting work, you must prepare the following tools and materials for leveling the ceiling:

Level, tape measure, marker - for marking.
Metal profiles, self-tapping screws, dowels and a hammer drill - for installing the frame.
Plasterboard boards and special fasteners for ceiling cladding.
Putty and a narrow spatula - for sealing joints.

If the ceiling was previously plastered and is now crumbling, then you should remove the coating using a hammer drill and a chisel. If it holds well, you should tap it to reveal weak spots. Metal profiles are held on by self-tapping screws, which are not recommended to be screwed into an unreliable surface. Then the resulting dust is removed from the coating and treated 2 times with an antiseptic primer. After this you can start marking:

First with building level and a marker draw lines near the walls, retreating from them by about 30 cm.
Opposite lines are connected taking into account the building level, the interval should be 20 cm less than the width of the plasterboard sheets.
Profiles are applied one by one along these lines and holes are drilled every 15 cm.
Dowels are inserted into the holes and the profile is secured with self-tapping screws; it is important to take into account the collapse of the ceiling.

Installing a drywall frame on the ceiling

Important! If you plan to lay any utilities, this must be done at this stage.

Now you need to screw the drywall to the frame with special fasteners; you may need to trim the material along the edges.

After all the sheets have been installed, you should prepare the putty or unpack the finished one. Scoop the material onto a spatula and transfer it to the drywall joint, then stretch it in a thin layer along the seam. At the end, the ceiling is subjected to further finishing - finishing putty, decorative plaster or coloring.

Installation of drywall on the frame must be carried out very carefully, after laying all communications

Other methods of leveling the ceiling involve the use of various solutions.

Treating a problematic ceiling with plaster

To cope with a curved surface that has some defects, leveling the ceiling with plaster is ideal. For this operation you will need the following tools and materials:

Scrapers, brushes, chisels, solvent, rags, sponges - to remove old coating.
Primer, paint brush or a roller for applying it.
Marker, tape measure, level - for marking.
A container, mixer or drill with an attachment - for preparing the solution.
Dry or, beacons, a set of spatulas, as a rule - for application.
Grater, grater, Sander or just sandpaper for grouting.

Preparatory work

First of all, the surfaces to be treated are cleaned. It is on the ceilings that mold or mildew most often appears, so you need to carefully examine the surface and find all the hot spots, if any. Then the surface should be treated with special means, for example, copper sulfate, Pufas or Homeenpoiste preparations. If significant fragments of the ceiling (or the entire ceiling) are covered with mold, you will have to use an open fire - the surface is treated blowtorch or gas burner.

Before plastering the ceiling, it is necessary to get rid of mold and mildew.

If the ceiling was previously painted, then the paint is soaked in solvent and removed with sponges. You can also scrape off the coating with a spatula. The whitewash is soaked in water and also removed with a sponge. If the ceiling was previously plastered, then the layer of plaster must be removed using a hammer drill with a chisel attachment. After this, the ceiling is cleaned of all contaminants.

On a note! To increase the roughness of the ceiling and improve adhesion to the plaster, it is recommended to sandblast the surface.

Finally, 2 coats of primer follow. deep penetration and installation of reinforcing mesh if the surfaces are wooden.

Preparing the ceiling surface for leveling with plaster

Installation of beacons

First you need to find out the thickness of the plaster layer. To do this, you need to use a building level to determine how blocked the ceiling is, and add to this the thickness of the beacon (0.6 or 1 cm).
On a note! For plastering walls, it is permissible to add another 0.5 cm of margin, but there should be as little plaster on the ceiling as possible.
Mark this point on opposite walls 30 cm from the corners, screw in the screws and pull the thread; under this thread, screw two screws into the ceiling 15 cm from the walls so that the fasteners barely touch it.
Construction cord allows you to quickly mark the ceiling for beacons
Then you should step back 80 cm and tie the thread again and screw in the next pair of screws. This is how you need to mark the entire ceiling.
After this, you need to prepare the same solution that will be used to level the ceilings, and cut the beacons 30 cm shorter than the length of the ceiling.
A solution is applied between each pair of screwed-in screws. in small portions, after which the beacon is leaned against it and pressed so that the ridge of the product becomes flush with the heads of the screws.
Then you need to pause for about 12 hours so that the solution on which the beacons are held dries, and you can start plastering.

Applying plaster

It starts with preparing the solution. If used gypsum mixture, it is important to prepare the solution in small portions so that it does not have time to dry out.

On a note! To carry out this procedure, it is better to use a large bucket with a square base. The high walls will prevent the material from splashing, and the shape will allow you to scoop the plaster onto the spatula without leaving any residue.

The technology for leveling the ceiling with plaster is as follows:

VIDEO: How to level a ceiling with your own hands using gypsum plaster

Leveling with putty

This method is suitable if the ceiling surface is relatively flat, does not have significant defects, or has been previously prepared using building mixtures or plasterboard boards. The main difference between putty and plaster is the grain size. The putty contains filler with a fraction of 0.1-1mm. As a result of its use, a perfectly flat surface is achieved. Applying putty consists of the following steps:

Preparation. The coating is rubbed down with sandpaper, after which it is treated with a primer using a brush or roller.
Applying the first layer. Its maximum thickness is 1 cm. The material is transferred to the ceiling with a spatula, and it is also used to level it. Then it is rubbed with a trowel.
Applying the finishing layer. Its thickness should be 1-3 mm. This layer must be used to level out all, even the smallest, defects. After it has dried and sanded, the leveling procedure can be considered complete.

To make the process as fast and convenient as possible, you need to follow some recommendations:

Leveling the ceiling with your own hands is quite simple. You just need to follow the instructions above and be patient. It is better not to rush and delay the procedure for several days, but in the end you will get a good result.

With the advent modern technologies on the installation of suspended and tensile structures Leveling the ceiling with plaster has almost lost its relevance, as it takes a lot of time, effort and money. However, many still prefer this type of finishing as the most environmentally friendly and does not affect the height of the room.

If you can’t save time and effort on it no matter how hard you want, then financial expenses can be minimized if you do all the work yourself. This is not an easy task, and it is also dirty and wet, but if you have made such a decision, our tips will help you avoid mistakes.

Let's take as an example the option with the most complex initial data: you need to re-plaster an old uneven concrete ceiling with an existing coating and cracks along the joint between the floor slabs.

Removing old coating

Let’s say right away: any old coating needs to be removed if you don’t want the plaster to fall on your head one day. This is a very unpleasant and messy, but necessary part of the renovation.

The removal method depends on the type of finish:

Cretaceous or lime whitewash, gypsum putty is soaked in warm water to soften using a roller or brush. Then they clean it off with an old but sharply sharpened spatula while the coating is wet;

Advice. If the whitewash layer is thin, it is easier to simply wash it off, changing the water several times.

Water-based paint is soaked in water with the addition of iodine (10 liter bottle);
Insoluble in water oil paints and the enamels will have to be cleaned “dry” spatula and wire brush. The task will be greatly facilitated by a drill with a wire attachment or a professional remover - special remedy, destroying the coating. It is applied to the surface with a roller and after half an hour is removed with a spatula. The price of such funds is not always humane, but much less time and effort is required.
If the ceiling has been plastered, it must be thoroughly tapped with a hammer to identify peeling areas - they are subject to mandatory removal. To do this, you often have to use an axe, chisel or hammer drill, but the coating that is weakly attached to the ceiling and the 10-20 cm area around the unreliable area must be knocked down.

After complete removal old coating leaves dust, dirt, and paint residues on the ceiling, so it needs to be washed after finishing work.

Another important point: Make sure there is no mold or mildew on the ceiling. The presence of black and brown-green spots indicates that the ventilation system in the room is broken when high humidity or in winter it does not warm up well. Another one possible reason– frequent leaks from above, from neighbors or from the roof.

It is important! It is useless to fight the fungus if these causes are not eliminated. It will appear again and grow, and this is fraught not only with aesthetic problems, but also harmful to health.

To get rid of mold, it is first cleaned off mechanically, after which the affected areas with a large margin around them are burned with a gas burner and treated with special antifungal agents.

Sealing joints and large defects

Watch the video of leveling the ceiling with plaster before starting work. You can make sure that preparation for it takes much more time, but not a single stage can be neglected, because the quality of the finish depends only appearance ceiling, but also your safety.

So, the first step is to thoroughly clean the seams between the floor slabs and treat them with a primer. Do the same with deep potholes and areas of fallen old plaster.

When the primer has dried, repair plaster is applied:

Potholes and chips on the surface are repaired with quick-hardening cement putty, filling them to the plane of the ceiling;
Joints and large cracks are covered with polyurethane foam and after it dries, the excess is cut off. Or they caulk it soaked in liquid gypsum putty tow. Then a layer of putty is applied to them, a strip of plaster fiberglass mesh is glued onto it, which is pressed into the solution with a spatula. The width of the strip should be greater than the width of the slot. Excess putty squeezed out through the cells is rubbed onto the ceiling with a spatula.

After this, they wait for the repaired areas to dry, lightly sand them and carefully prime the entire surface of the ceiling.

Ceiling plastering technology

Ceilings, like walls, can be leveled with plaster using beacons (see Installing beacons for plaster - all the nuances and secrets). But this is rarely really necessary: no furniture will stand or hang on it, no one will examine it to see if it is perpendicular to the walls. Therefore, it is quite enough to simply make the surface flat and smooth, without bringing the plane to the ideal horizon.

There is another reason. The instructions do not allow applying a thick layer of plaster to the ceiling, which could fall off under its own weight, causing damage to the interior and people in the room.

Therefore, if differences are more than 50 mm and there is a desire to achieve perfect alignment it would be smarter and cheaper to do suspended ceiling from plasterboard (see: Cladding the ceiling with plasterboard: doing it right).

Selection of plaster

The choice of material depends on the thickness of the intended plaster marking. Even if you refused to deduce by level, but ceiling tiles laid with significant difference(up to 50 mm) that require leveling, you will need coarse plaster for thick layers.

If the difference is small (up to 20 mm) and it is enough simple alignment and eliminating minor defects on the plane, you can use putty of a smaller grain size.

Note. Leveling ceilings with plaster yourself is best done with gypsum-based compounds. They are lighter than cement ones, have good adhesion, and do not crack after drying.

Such mixtures are produced in the form of a dry powder, which must be mixed with water to prepare a working solution. The procedure and proportions of the components are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

To mix, you will need a large container (plastic bucket), a drill with a mixing attachment and the following information:

Gypsum compositions set quickly, so the amount of mixed solution should be such that you have time to work it out within half an hour;
The container, tools and water must be clean, equipment must be washed after each batch;
How warmer water, the faster the finished mixture will harden. It is best to take water at room temperature;
After final mixing, water or dry mixture must not be added to the solution.

Work order

You need to start working immediately after preparing the solution in order to have time to apply it to the surface within 25-30 minutes. The video will tell you better than any words about leveling the ceiling with plaster, but some points are worth focusing on.

Coarse-grained plaster is applied in a layer of at least 5 mm, and for putty this thickness is the maximum. If necessary, you can make several layers for final leveling, but each previous one must dry well.
The solution is applied to a wide spatula and transferred to the ceiling by moving it towards you, after which it is leveled.

After applying plaster to an area of 1.5-2 sq.m. it can be leveled using a rule, holding it with the beveled edge towards you. The thickness of the layer will depend on the angle of inclination of the rule to the plane: the steeper it is, the thinner the layer. You should try to keep this angle unchanged.

On the knocking of walls and ceilings, as well as in hard to reach places unevenness is smoothed out with a spatula.
If for leveling it is necessary to apply a second layer of plaster, then the first, until it has dried, is processed with a plaster comb or a notched trowel to obtain a relief. Or, after drying, the first layer is impregnated with a primer.

Note. The drying time of the layer depends on temperature and humidity environment. It is impossible to change them artificially with the help of heaters and drafts, otherwise only the surface layer will dry out and set, and the plaster inside will remain damp.

After drying, the last layer of plaster is sanded with a grater with a nozzle made of plaster mesh or sandpaper. This treatment is quite sufficient for subsequent wallpapering of the ceiling or ceiling tiles(see Ceiling tiles: selection and characteristics).

Before painting it must be puttied with finishing putty. Vetonit on a gypsum basis or polymer putty Shitrock.

Conclusion

Without any experience in plastering, even after studying a lot of materials on the topic and watching the video in this article, you should not take on plastering the ceiling yourself. The slightest failure to comply with the technology can lead to the collapse of the plaster sheet in the near future.

This is not only unpleasant, but also dangerous, since even thin layer The coating has a decent weight and if it falls, it can destroy furniture or cause injury. Therefore, it is better to get your first plastering experience when finishing walls, and if you don’t have it, entrust the repair of ceilings to professionals.

Leveling the ceiling with putty requires certain skills in using the tool and knowledge of the physical and chemical properties of the materials used and the surfaces being treated. With the advent of dry construction mixtures on the construction market, which include additives for certain treated surfaces, there is no longer a need to select the proportions of the mixture ingredients.

For most dry putty mixtures, the solvent is water. The ratio of water and mixture is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging material. You will need advice on issues such as:

Surface preparation;
Material selection;
Application method.

In addition, if you do the work yourself, you will need a basic set of putty tools.

First, let's define the terminology: putty And putty. The confusion arises from the fact that the word putty means filling cracks, holes with some material, for example, tow - putty. A from the word spatula, plasterer's tool, formed verb to putty.

Both concepts of putty and putty are entrenched in the Russian language. Professionals often use the words putty, putty, putty. Majority Russian manufacturers on packages of dry mixes they write “putty”, and production facilities producing mixtures using imported technologies write “putty”. Here's an example.

When choosing this or that type of dry mixture, decide on the composition, read the description, instructions for use. The presented mixtures are suitable for sealing surface defects and finishing leveling.

There are 2 ways to putty ceilings - manual And mechanical. Both methods are suitable for independent work. If you have the skill to work with a spraying unit, then you don’t have to buy it, but rent it. This method is suitable when large areas putties.

The manual method involves many techniques for performing ceiling putty. Every plasterer has a certain set of techniques allowing you to quickly and efficiently perform your work. All putty methods are preceded by preparatory work:

Installation of scaffolding or stepladders to ensure safety of work;
Preparation of tools for cleaning defective areas and cleaning the ceiling (scrapers, brushes, knife, hammer, sponges, rags, etc.);
Preparation of individual protective equipment(gloves, glasses, respirator, clothing);
Protect the floor surface, remove furniture if possible or cover it with protective material.

For different types ceilings (concrete, wood, sheet) are dry putty mixtures. Preparation concrete ceiling It is carried out by cleaning the old peeling finish to the base of the slab, tapping the voids with a hammer, cleaning the ceiling with a scraper or a metal brush, using a wet sponge or rags to clean the ceiling from dirt and dust. The work is dirty, but the quality of the primer and putty largely depends on it.

How to putty an uneven ceiling with large differences in heights

An easy way to check if your ceiling is uneven- attach a long one to it horizontal rail in several directions, this way you will determine what height of the layer of leveling putty will be needed. Surface concrete slabs the floors are usually flat. Their horizontality between themselves and the entire ceiling may be disrupted. If it is not visually noticeable, then there is no need to install beacons for horizontal alignment.

In old houses, after dismantling the old covering, the difference in heights (the highest and lowest points) may be more 50 mm. In this case do dry leveling of gypsum boards, suspended or suspended ceiling . But in any case, repair of the main ceiling is required.

If fungus or mold has formed on the ceiling, then you need to determine the cause of the disease and take measures to prevent and eliminate the source of danger. Use a solution copper sulfate , but it is not as effective as, for example, chemical agent"Tikkurila", "Homeenpoist", others.

Sequence of puttying work

Installing beacons to level the ceiling surface is a difficult job for a beginner; you need experience using a laser or water level. Let the plasterers do this work. But you can do puttying of defects (cracks, holes, peelings, joints, pipe inlets, etc.).

Advice. When repairing the ceiling, do not forget about the adjacent walls. They are also cleaned and puttied at least 200 mm from the ceiling along the entire perimeter if you plan to prepare the walls for finishing.

Here sample list works:

Buy concrete ceiling primer from a putty manufacturer. Usually for your dry or ready-made mixtures the manufacturer produces a compatible primer.

It is important to know! For interior spaces Primers based on the following bases are suitable: acrylic and mineral (for all ceilings); alkyd (for tiled, galvanized metal and glass surfaces).

Plasterers prefer universal acrylic primers deep penetration of manufacturers Knauf and Ceresit, as well as domestic, prepared according to European standards: "O2", "Ivsil" And "Polymin" Donetsk, Russian "UNCONT STANDARD", "Snowflake" for facades and wooden coverings, other.

There are primers that are applied to the surface with a spray or roller or brush. For convenience, use a telescopic extension handle.

Acrylic putty for leveling the ceiling from a Polish manufacturer is suitable for these primers Sniezka and Belarusian "TYPHOON MASTER" or other mixtures of similar composition.

The construction market is replete with compatible paint and varnish materials(LMB). Consultants will select Decoration Materials for specific reasons.

How to level a ceiling with putty yourself

So, preparing the ceiling for finishing putty done. Now you need to apply putty to the ceiling and smooth it evenly over the ceiling. Tools for puttying the ceiling and adjacent walls.

Mix with a drill with an attachment to level the dry mixture. We measure out the estimated amount of water, add a certain amount of the mixture in small portions, stir until it reaches the consistency of sour cream. Leave for 10 minutes, then stir again.

To begin, practice the movements of applying a uniform layer of leveling putty: try to level the walls, and then continue applying from the wall to the ceiling and leveling the layer.

Scoop up the putty from the bucket with a narrow spatula and place it on the knife blade of a wide spatula in an even layer over the entire width. Press the spatula firmly against the joint of the slab and use a smoothing motion from the wall to the ceiling. It is recommended to start from the window. The first layer is applied no more than 1.5 mm. Plasterers, instead of a bucket and spatula, use a flat surface with a handle (falcon) or use two spatulas. The putty is placed on a plane and held in your free hand.

Advice. Apply the first layer to the surface of the slab in the direction perpendicular to the floor seam. There is no need to putty the seam. This is done with the second layer of putty. The first layer will act as beacons, then the putty will evenly cover the seam, there will be no bulge from the glued fiberglass.

After applying the layer, the residue from a wide spatula is cleaned off on the edge of the plane and the layer is smoothed, then the next portion is scooped out with a working spatula from the “falcon” and the putty is continued, the movements are practiced until they become automatic, and soon everything will start to work out. For the first leveling layer apply hard spatula 35-40 mm wide. This allows you to fill depressions and cracks by applying pressure from the knife to the surface of the slab.

After applying the leveling layer, check the surface. If any flaws remain, apply another layer in a perpendicular direction. Before applying the final third layer, the ceiling surface is sanded and primed. After hardening, a final layer is applied, which is also sanded and primed before painting or wallpapering. Before painting, check with a light directed at the ceiling the smallest defects, they are removed by additional sanding, then primer.

Useful video

In the video we'll see how to properly level the walls and ceiling using finishing putty:

Ceiling putty corrects defects and is the basis for subsequent finishing. High-quality putty depends on proper preparation surface, priming, selection of materials, tools, adherence to puttying technology.