How is vinyl siding installed? Step-by-step instructions for installing all siding elements yourself

Materials for self-finishing There are many facades. However, covering a house with siding with your own hands stands out among them due to its low cost and extreme ease of installation. Most often, home craftsmen choose vinyl for such cladding of their cottage. façade panels, the installation technology of which we will consider in detail in this article.

Components and start of work

To properly cover a house with siding from the street, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Most of complaints about self-stuffed PVC cladding then arise precisely because of non-compliance with the banal rules of its installation.

There are several types of vinyl siding planks:

Types of components

Initial – starting rail, the first lowest element;

The main panel is the basic segment of siding covering a house;

Finish – the topmost stripe;

Connecting (docking) – H-profile for joining short panels;

Hinged - ebb protecting the windows and base of the house from precipitation;

Near-window (wide J-profile) - platband for decorating slopes;

Corner (external and internal) – for covering the ends of siding panels at corner joints;

Soffit – ceiling panel for sewing cornices and gables of houses;

J-trim – narrow universal J-profile.

The variety of plank shapes only simplifies independent cladding. There is a set element for every corner and ledge of the house; you just need to correctly calculate the required number.

Calculation of material for cladding and necessary tools

For calculation Supplies you need to calculate the area of ​​the facade covered with siding, and then divide it by the square footage of the selected panels. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sizes of windows and doors that the house has, removing them from the calculations. You also need to take a 10% margin for adjustment so that everything can be finished without problems or restrictions.

To decorate a house with siding you will need the following set of tools:

Level and plumb;

Ladder;

• Screwdriver;

• Scissors and hacksaw for metal.

If the walls of the cottage are built of concrete or brick, then you will need a drill to drill holes for the dowels of the sheathing. An angle grinder won’t hurt when doing siding on your own house. It will make cutting the panels easier and faster.

Insulation and waterproofing of the house

Before you start covering the house, you need to clean the walls and seal the cracks in them. Under the siding old paint and the plaster will not be visible, but it is better to get rid of them. If the house is made of wood or aerated concrete blocks, then a vapor-permeable waterproofing film must be attached to it under the sheathing.

The insulation is placed between the guides of the frame, which is stuffed under the finishing material in question for the facade of a private house. Next, another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of it. Moreover, everything is done so that an air cushion remains between the membrane and the heat insulator on the walls of the house.

DIY siding installation

To attach vinyl panels to the sheathing, you can take:

Screws (self-tapping screws) with a diameter of 3.5–4 mm

Nails with a stem section of 3 mm and a head from 8 mm

Their consumption when finishing a house with siding is calculated based on the step between these hardware on the strips of 30 cm. Fasteners in wooden slats or the metal profile of the frame must fit at least 20 mm. In this case, a space of 1 mm should be left between its cap and the PVC lining. If this is not done, the vinyl siding of the house will warp and ripple when the outside temperature changes.

Assembling sheathing for cladding a house with siding

The sheathing is made vertical or horizontal with a distance between the slats (profiles) of 30–40 cm. These guides must be placed across the main vinyl planks. But by definition there should be no crossbars between them. You need to cover the house with siding with your own hands so that there is space under the panels for natural circulation air.

To ensure reliable fastening of the PVC cladding, additional support rails are installed around the openings and along the corners of the building. They are also needed in places where lamps and drains are hung on walls. It is necessary to securely fasten not only the facade panels for the exterior decoration of the house, but also various decorative elements on them.

House sheathing

Installing the starting bar

The first to be fixed to the walls is the starting bar. To do this, a rope is pulled level around the house on nails at a height of 3-4 cm from the lower edge of the mounted sheathing. The starting profiles are attached around the perimeter of the building not end-to-end, but at intervals of 5–6 mm in case of thermal expansion.

Installation of low tide and starting bar. Low tides are installed from the corner of the house. The starting profile is mounted 30-40 mm above the ebb strip.

When covering houses with siding, it is extremely important to fix the starting strip correctly and evenly. It serves as the basis for the entire structure of the external cladding. The clarity of the geometric lines and the overall appearance of the siding decoration of a private house depends on it.

Setting internal and external corners

Next, external and internal corners are attached, installed at the joints of two walls. Their lower edge should be located just below the starting strip already attached to the house. The first self-tapping screw is screwed into the top hole for fasteners so that the corner hangs on it.

External and internal corners are installed so that the bottom edge is 4-6 mm below the starting profile, and top part 1-3 mm below the soffit or cornice

Then the corner is aligned strictly vertically. The remaining screws are screwed down the bar in 30 cm increments in the middle of the holes and not all the way. The only way PVC sheathing at home will be able to “breathe” and will not deform.

The corner elements are built up with an overlap. At the bottom of the top bar, the inner side edges are trimmed by 25 mm. It is inserted into the bottom corner by 20 mm, which leaves a gap of 5 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of strips on door and window openings

The next stage is covering the house openings for windows and doors with platband. In order for everything to turn out beautifully in the end, you will have to work hard here. In the upper horizontal J-profiles you will have to make cuts in the sides with a bend of the cut part of the panel, and in the lower ones you will have to make an angled cut at 45 degrees.

Trimming the window profile

Vertical strips are cut at an angle at the top, and cut out at the bottom with a similar bend on the side. The purpose of all these manipulations is not just to cover the house beautifully with siding, but to join the platbands so that water cannot seep into the joints anywhere.

Installing the main panels

With basic planks everything is much simpler. The first of them just needs to be inserted into the starting profile, and then fixed on the sheathing. The rest will follow one after another. It is the ease of installation of the main panels that allows you to decorate your house with siding with your own hands in literally a day.

If there is not enough siding length, we join several planks through an H-profile. To do this, do not forget to install and secure in advance connecting H-profile. The distances below and above are the same as for the outer or inner corner

Installation starts from the starting profile and ends with the finishing profile or molding

Don’t forget to make “hooks” at the top of the panel

The finishing strip is attached to the upper edge of the wind board using “hooks” similar to the molding.

Soffits are installed between the molding and the J-bevel

The planks should be fastened from the middle to the edges, placing the screws exactly in the middle of the holes on the edge. The finishing touch to the vinyl cladding of houses is the installation of the finishing panel with the insertion of the topmost main PVC strip into it.

What to consider in order to properly sheathe a house with siding

The technology of work is such that house cladding can be done all year round. But when sub-zero temperature The siding should be taken outside in advance to allow the material to acclimatize.

If the house is old, then there should be no problems with vinyl paneling. But the new building must be allowed to settle completely, otherwise the façade decor will necessarily be deformed. No amount of clearance will help in this situation.

Numerous photos of houses covered with siding are pleasing to the eye. In order for everything to turn out no worse during self-installation, it is extremely important to follow the installation instructions and leave gaps where necessary to compensate for the expansion of the material when heated under the sun.

Table of temperature gaps

When installing vinyl siding, consider the air temperature according to the table below. For example, if you carry out installation at a temperature of +10 degrees, then the main strip 3.6 m long can lengthen by 8 mm in warmer weather, and shrink by 12 mm in colder weather.

Owners of private houses often wonder howcover your house with siding yourself. And the choice of this finishing material is not accidental, since siding is reliable and effectively performs protective and decorative functions.

If planned self-cladding, then you need to understand one thing important point: If you do not follow the installation technology developed by the material manufacturer, you may be denied a warranty. According to statistics, more than 70% of complaints received from customers are the result of improper installation.

Siding is very popular due to its low price and ease of installation. And if a few decades ago houses were faced exclusively natural materials, then today manufacturers offer several alternative options siding:

Wooden componentsare rare due to their high cost and significant shortcomings. Of course, wood is environmentally friendly, but it requires constant care - painting, regular repair/replacement of damaged parts, etc. Moreover, wood panels rot (even when using antiseptics), so their service life is limited.

Iron sidinghouses are not sheathed at all - it is used only for non-residential and industrial buildings. It has many advantages, including strength, fire resistance, a wide selection of colors, long service life, but it also has disadvantages - heavy weight and susceptibility to corrosion.

Appeared relatively recently, its main function is protection from precipitation. Externally, the material resembles brick or stone masonry, so a house decorated with it will look very elegant.

So, houses are often linedvinyl siding. Such panels have a two-layer structure - one layer protects the facade, and the other preserves the properties of the material.

Here are the main benefits of siding your home with vinyl components:

• long service life (about fifty years);
• resistance to corrosion and rotting;
• no need for additional processing;
• ease of care;
• Possibility of installation on any surface.

Now - straight to work.

Stage 1. Calculations

The procedure begins with quantity calculations necessary materials. You can do this yourself by measuring total area the outer surface of the house, or seek help from specialists who will accurately determine the required number of panels and other components.

Stage 2. Preparing everything you need

When installing siding panels you will need:

• building level;
• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• "circular";
• plumb line;
• square;
• roulette;
• pliers.

Don't forget about the funds personal protection– construction gloves and plastic glasses.

Stage 3. Frame assembly

Note! The presence of a frame is not necessary, but if the walls are uneven or were previously covered with other cladding, then you cannot do without it. Of course, the old coating is removed before installation.

To build the frame you will need slats of medium width. The slats are installed at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the direction of the facing panels. The pitch between the guides is 45 cm. The slats are installed along the entire perimeter of the house; if necessary, thermal insulation material is laid between the walls and the frame.

Stage 4. Installation of panels

When covering a house, you need to adhere to certain rules.

1. After laying every five to six tiers, a level check is carried out.
2. Cladding cannot begin immediately after the construction of the house is completed. The building takes some time to “shrink”, so you will have to wait.
3. The panels are attached to the frame loosely, not too tightly.
4. For fastening, it is advisable to use aluminum nails ø30 mm and 20 mm long, which are driven in the center.
5. To cut the panels you need to use a hacksaw.
6. Installation of panels must begin from the center and move towards the corners.
7. Stressing the panels during installation is unacceptable, as it can lead to deformation of the material and other problems that will be difficult to eliminate.
8. Finishing should always be done from the bottom up.
9. Any finishing material, in particular vinyl, undergoes thermal expansion. That is why the panels should not be stretched too much during installation.

Note! Taking all this into account, the cladding can be done vertically or horizontally. Let's consider both options.

Horizontal cladding

Step 1. First, the starting point is designated. It is usually located at a height of 5 cm from the lowest corner. A plumb line is used to determine this point.

Step 2. Install the launch pad according to the recommendations.

Step 3. After this, the internal corners are attached. They are installed at the joints of the walls, slightly below the starting point. The corners are fixed with nails, and it is very important to monitor the tightness of the connection.

Note! If the rack is not long enough, then the top of the panel is cut off by about 2 cm, and the next panel is installed overlapping.

Step 4. External corners are installed in the same way as external corners.

Step 5. Platbands are attached to window and door openings.

Step 6. The next row of panels is installed on the first row, the overlap is still observed. This row starts at the back of the house and moves towards the front.

Step 7: When installing panels near openings, cut off the excess. First, the location of the cut is marked, after which the panel is bent several times along the marked line until it breaks.

Step 8. Before installing the final row, the finishing strip is attached under the cornice. Holes are made on the panel in increments of 15 cm, after which, by attaching the upper component to the previous row, the panel is pushed under the bar.

This method is not much different from the one described above. The sequence of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. First, using necessary equipment the starting bar is installed.

Step 2. The outer and inner corners are installed, the bottom edge is aligned with the L-shaped profile.

Step 3. There are no changes in subsequent actions.

Step 4. The last panel is inserted into the corresponding groove of the outer corner. It is typical that before this you should check the horizontalness of the first panel.

Video - Vertical cladding

Siding in regions with strong winds

To improve wind resistance when driving nails, it is recommended to use nylon washers with a width of 1.58 cm and a hole diameter of 6.5 mm.

As noted earlier, vinyl is a practical and low-maintenance material; it does not require any special treatment. However, operation on outdoors involves performing certain procedures. If you strictly follow the instructions, then the siding long years will look like new.

1. You can use a simple garden hose to wash the panels. At heavy pollution In parallel with the hose, use a soft brush on the handle or a sponge.

   

2. If the dirt is not washed off with water, then you need to prepare a special solution: washing powder is mixed with trisodium phosphate in a 1:2 ratio, after which 5 liters of water are poured.

   

3. In regions with high humidity levels, mold may appear on the surface of the siding. To remove mold, use the same solution as described in the previous paragraph, only instead of 5 liters of water you need to take 4 liters, and also add 1 liter of 5 percent sodium hydrochloride.
4. To remove particularly stubborn stains, you can take extreme measures - use abrasive stain removers. The maximum damage that will be caused to the surface is minor scratches and, as a result, roughness of the material. But from a distance of several meters these scratches will be invisible.

   

5. Before using cleaning agents, the panels are rinsed with water. The product remains on the surface for five to ten minutes (no longer), then is washed off.

Note! Do not use products based on organic solvents to remove nail polish or remove greasy stains, furniture polishing solutions, as well as pure chlorine (the latter will “whiten” the panels, after which they will lose their original color).

As a conclusion

And at the end - one more useful advice. Before starting installation, it is advisable to leave the panels for two to three hours at the temperature in which the installation will be carried out - this way the material will “get used” to the conditions. If the work is carried out in winter, then the gap for thermal expansion needs to be increased by several millimeters.

For a more detailed introduction to the technology, watch the thematic video.

Video - Installing vinyl siding

Siding is one of the most inexpensive and practical materials for finishing the facade of a house. Installation of such cladding is quite simple; even a novice builder can master the installation. The material is strong and durable and is not afraid of rain, frost, wind and sun. It will protect the walls of the house from mechanical damage and prevent their premature destruction.

Another argument in favor of the material under consideration is the designer’s freedom of imagination. Wall cladding can be done in the most different colors and invoices. Exists great amount options, some of them are intended to imitate natural stone, bricks, wood of various species.

Types of siding for cladding

Siding is a special cladding panel. Products for external cladding usually lamella-shaped, but larger varieties are sometimes found. These elements are produced in the form of fairly large panels.

The siding itself can be made from different materials:

1. Plastic. Made from vinyl or acrylic polymer. Finishing the facade with this type of material is the most affordable option. The material does not rot and is resistant to moisture. In this case, the plastic does not crack and does not support combustion. The disadvantages of this type of siding include low impact strength.
   

   

2. Metal. Panels made of galvanized iron or aluminum are absolutely fireproof. They are also characterized high strength. But there are several disadvantages that can cause inconvenience during installation and operation. These disadvantages include increased weight and instability of steel to corrosion. To prevent damage, it is better to choose aluminum models, but their price will be significantly higher.

   
   

3. Tree. The material is called “planken” and is highly expensive. Wood is capricious and requires special attention and care during operation. But the advantages of such house cladding include attractive appearance, good thermal insulation and sound insulation performance.

   
   

4. Fiber cement. Relatively the new kind, which is just gaining popularity. The material belongs to the group of non-flammable materials and is not susceptible to mold and mildew. Also from positive characteristics moisture resistance, strength and durability can be distinguished. Special fastenings are provided for installation.

Decorating the exterior of a house with siding is not difficult, but painstaking. Considering the cost of services of professional workers, it will be much easier to do this work yourself. To do this, you just need to study the technology and carefully review the recommendations of the manufacturer of a particular finishing material.

Material calculation and preparation

The technology for finishing a house with siding is almost the same for all types. To cladding a house, you will need to prepare some tools for the job:

• a universal hacksaw with small teeth;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• hammer;
• construction plumb line;
• roulette;
• pencil.

Full list the necessary tool

It's easier to do the job with two people. They start with calculating the material. This is necessary in order to immediately purchase required amount and avoid additional transport and time costs during the work process.

The amount of material can be calculated approximately. To do this, calculate the area of ​​the external walls, plinth and cornices. To calculate the required number of panels, the result must be divided by the area of ​​one element. In order to think over the location of the joints and more accurately calculate the quantity, it is worth making a sketch of the external walls of the building. It is recommended to add 5-10% to the amount of siding received for trimming and various unforeseen expenses.

Calculation of surface area for cladding

Wall finishing begins with surface preparation. It includes the following steps:

• cleaning from dirt and dust;
• removal of plants, dried lime;
• removal of worn-out plaster and other finishing materials;
• dismantling drainpipes, window sills, various decorative elements, which may interfere with the work process.

Frame installation

If the house is built of brick or lightweight concrete, it is recommended to use sheathing made of light metal profile. For a wooden or frame building, it is wise to choose wooden frame.

The wooden sheathing is made from slats measuring 50x50 mm. They can be attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. When installing wall siding, the sheathing is placed vertically. When finishing the base, both vertical and horizontal frames can be used.

The frame slats are installed in increments of 30-40 cm, as well as around the openings. There should not be any slats at the very bottom

First of all, the corner elements of the frame are installed. Their evenness is checked using a building level. To secure the frame posts, you should use nails with an anti-corrosion coating (zinc, aluminum). The distance between the frame slats depends on the type of siding. For metal panels it will be 40 cm, and for vinyl panels - 30 cm. But this information should be clarified with the manufacturer.

Are you planning to insulate your facade?

In order for the house to maintain its ability to breathe, it is recommended to choose mineral wool. This is especially true for wooden buildings. The thickness of the heat insulator is selected depending on the climatic region.

Insulation of the house mineral wool implies the presence of a ventilation layer between the wool and the siding. If the height of the sheathing is not enough to provide a gap of 1-3 cm, then a counter-lattice is provided.

Installation of insulation with a counter-lattice to create a ventilation gap

On top of the insulation using construction stapler attach hydro- windproof film. Wall cladding will breathe well if you use modern vapor diffusion windproof membranes. You should be careful with insulation because incorrect choice materials at this stage can lead to problems with room temperature and ventilation.

How to work with siding

Finishing begins with the installation of the starting profile. It is attached to the sheathing using galvanized nails or self-tapping screws. The second step will be the installation of corner elements and a connecting profile (if necessary). Door and window openings must be edged with a special j-profile.

Installation of starting and corner profiles

Installation of the first siding panel is carried out on the starting strip. It snaps into place and is secured with self-tapping screws (or nails). The assembly of the cladding begins from the bottom up. The panels are secured to each other using a tongue-and-groove system.

Attention! When installing plastic, wood or fiber cement panels, rigid fixation is not allowed. After correct installation the element can be moved to the sides. Rigid fixation is used only when installing metal siding.

Installation of ordinary, connecting and end elements

When working with plastic, a gap of a couple of millimeters should be left between the trim and the head of the nail or screw. Tight fastening can damage the material when humidity and temperature change (plastic expands).

Finishing the facade with siding is quite simple. Plastic elements have special elongated holes for fastening. Nails or screws are placed in the middle.

To finish finishing the house with siding, you need to install a finishing strip at the top of the wall. The last panel is inserted into this bar from below and snaps into place.

To finalize the finishing, it is necessary to install all facade elements (eaves, window sills, pipes, etc.) in their place.

A house finished with siding is reliably protected from any weather conditions!

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation - budget method protection of residential or industrial buildings from exposure external conditions. A person with minimal construction skills can carry it out independently. The main thing is to adhere to the work technology.

The frame on which the siding panels will be installed can be made of a metal profile or wooden beam.

Metal sheathing

The finished structure will be more durable, stable and reliable. Metal slats Easier to fix on uneven surfaces.

The profile is attached at a distance of 50 cm from each other; hangers are used to connect it to the wall of the building. This technique helps smooth out wall deviations, allowing you to assemble an even frame.

Wood frame

This method is more accessible, but you will need to carefully study the material before purchasing. Typically, bars with a cross section of 50*50 mm are used.

For sheathing, you cannot purchase wood that is peeling or has traces of rot or deformation. Any damage will significantly reduce the service life of the entire structure.

The installed frame must be carefully processed protective impregnations, to increase its resistance to rotting, repel insects and reduce flammability.

Tools for work

For self-installation you will need:

• a sharp knife or jigsaw for cutting vinyl parts;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• nails;
• roulette;
• hammer.

Calculation of the quantity of materials

Calculation of the amount of vinyl siding

To find out the exact amount of materials that will be needed for the job, you should measure the building being sheathed.

The external surfaces of any structure can be divided into geometric figures: squares, rectangles, triangles. To facilitate the process, you can use this technique by first measuring individual wall elements, and then adding up the resulting values.

When calculating, it is important to remember that vinyl, like any PVC material, tends to change in size as the temperature increases or decreases environment. The degree of deviation can be almost 10 cm.

Therefore, it is important to take this property into account facing material when drawing up a cladding plan. If you ignore this point finished design very soon it will lose its original appearance - the panels will warp or, on the contrary, gaps will form between the individual elements.

To prevent this from happening, before attaching vinyl siding, it is worth studying the installation recommendations.

Rules for installing vinyl siding

In order for the finished structure to be durable and not lose strength over time, you should:

1. When installing, secure the panels so that they can move freely.
2. Drive the nail exclusively into the center of the hole intended for it. Fix nail panel, located at one end of the hole is not allowed - this can damage the product. If it is necessary to drive it into the end (for example, if only in this area it is possible to connect it to the sheathing strip), the hole should first be widened using a hammer drill.
3. You cannot drive the nail all the way in - there should be a distance of 1 mm between the panel and the head.
4. The fasteners must be driven in at right angles, otherwise the cladding elements may be bent.

Surface preparation

Any hanging elements - gutters, trim, lamps, doorbells, mailboxes and more - are removed from the walls.

Afterwards, they carefully inspect their home: if there are traces of mold, large cracks and other defects on the walls, they are eliminated. Old cladding walls (plaster, tiles, boards) are completely removed.

Installation of sheathing

Do-it-yourself installation of the lathing is carried out, taking into account the method of fastening the siding: under horizontal mount you will need a vertical frame, and vice versa.

If they plan to insulate the building at the same time as the cladding, the sheathing is made double. In this case, the first frame should be located perpendicular to the second, on which the siding will be installed. For example, if the sheathing will be mounted horizontally, then the frame under it - the second - should be vertical, and the first, installed on the wall, should be horizontally directed.

The sheathing pitch is determined based on the width of the slab insulation.

Installation of sheathing

Siding installation

If experience in conducting similar works no, a video instruction will help: after watching it, it will be easier to understand all the nuances of the process.

Finding the starting point

The final result will depend on the evenness of the position of the starting bar; close attention should be paid to this point.

An installation line must be marked along the entire perimeter of the building. Using a building level, find the lowest point on the sheathing and screw in a self-tapping screw at this point.

They do the same around the entire perimeter of the house. The thread is secured to the first screw and pulled around the perimeter, returning to the starting mark.

Using the cord as a reference line, fix the J-profile. In this case, a margin of 6 mm is left at the corners. The profiles themselves are fixed at a distance of 10 mm from each other so that they do not warp when the temperature changes.

Installation of corner external and internal profiles

Before installing these elements, the soffits are first installed or their locations are marked.

The corner profile is applied to the corner of the sheathing so that there is a free space of 3 mm between its end and the soffit. The bottom edge should protrude 6 mm below the starting strip. Secure the part using self-tapping screws.

Using a level, make sure that the profile is in a strictly vertical position. The rest are fixed in the same way.

The process of installing internal profiles is no different from installing external ones.

Framing door and window openings

If the openings are located in the same plane as the wall of the building, a j-profile is installed along their perimeter.

The order of connecting profiles:

1. On the upper profile, bridge cuts are made at each end.
2. Bend them down. The resulting hole is designed to drain sediment from the upper part to the lower one.
3. Cuts are made on the side profiles so that the part can be tightly fitted to the top profile.
4. Assembling the structure.

The lower part of the frame is made using the same principle.

Installation of the first row and extension of panels

Step-by-step instruction installation of vinyl siding:

1. Work begins from the rear of the house - here possible mistakes a newcomer will not be so noticeable.
2. The panel is inserted into the lock of the initial strip, while simultaneously inserting its end into the corner profile. In this case, it is important to maintain a distance of 6 mm (summer) or 9 mm (winter) from the bottom of the corner profile lock.
3. The panels are built up using the overlapping method or using an H-profile. In the first case, the locks and mounting frames are cut so that when installing the parts, an overlap of 2.5 cm is formed. The H-profile is installed in the same way as corner profiles - retreating from the soffits by 3 mm and extending beyond the level of the initial strip by 6 mm.

The remaining panels are mounted either around the perimeter or separately sheathed on each wall. This does not affect the final result.

At this stage, the evenness of the work is checked every 3 rows. To install a row interrupted by an opening, the panel adjacent to it is cut to the required size. Another finishing profile is installed in the lower part of the window opening frame - this way the siding will be leveled in the plane.

Installing siding on the area under the roof

Siding, the installation of which is almost complete, in the area adjacent to the roof, is secured using a J- or finishing profile.

First, a profile is fixed around the perimeter of the house under the roof. Then measure the distance remaining between the bottom of the J-profile lock and the lock of the penultimate row of panels. Subtract 2 mm from the obtained value (standard technological indentation).

Points are marked on the vinyl panel (so that when cutting, the lock is also removed), a line is drawn, and the excess is cut off. Make hooks, bend them to outside element. If this moment causes difficulties, and it is difficult to repeat it with your own hands, the video will help you figure it out.

Insert the prepared panel, secure it in the J-profile lock, slightly pushing it up.

These instructions will help you install vinyl siding yourself.

Curtained or ventilated façade – modern system, often used for exterior finishing residential and industrial buildings. The cladding here is siding - vinyl, fiber cement, wood and even metal. It is noteworthy that the same installation technology is used for the listed materials. For those wishing to familiarize themselves with it, we suggest you study step-by-step instructions on how to install siding with your own hands on any base - wood, brick, aerated concrete, and so on. By doing the house wall cladding yourself, you will significantly save on the cost of the work.

Preparation for installation

On initial stage you need to do the following:

1. Measure the facades, gables, window and door openings of the building to find out the amount of building materials to purchase.
2. Taking advantage wiring diagram, count the number of components and add to it at least 10% of the reserve for scraps and waste.
3. Purchase materials and fasteners, prepare tools.

Note. We suggest considering the mounting order plastic siding with external wall insulation, since its installation is considered the most difficult. Having mastered the technology, you can easily decorate your house with panels made of metal, wood and fiber cement.

You must understand that installation of siding is always carried out on a frame (otherwise known as lathing) made of wooden beams or metal profiles. But a good facade subsystem made of galvanized elements costs much more than wood, and cheap steel analogues will not last long. Hence the conclusion: if you lack funds, it is better to buy timber than to decorate your house or cottage with thin profiles with low-quality coating.

Scheme for calculating the siding area and the number of profiles

In addition to the sheathing parts, you will need:

• insulation – polystyrene foam or cotton wool on a basalt basis;
• a film that protects the facade from wind and moisture penetration;
• siding panels suitable color with all accompanying strips;
• fastening elements - dowels, short screws and nails, if upholstery is being done on a wooden house.

Advice. Most often, homeowners cover their exterior walls with inexpensive vinyl siding. white. This finishing material quickly loses its appearance from street dust, which turns into dirt in the rain. Therefore, it is better to select panels of other, less easily soiled shades.

Now it’s worth understanding the types of elements for installing siding so that you understand where each one needs to be placed and correctly calculate their number:

• the starting and finishing strip is installed at the beginning and end of the row of panels on each wall;
• corner elements serve as cladding for internal and external corners building;
• near-window strip is used to frame translucent structures and doorways;
• the ebb is designed to drain water and is placed above the base and under the windows;
• the connecting element is needed for beautiful joining of PVC panels instead of installing them overlapping;
• It is customary to sheathe roof overhangs and other hard-to-reach places with soffits;
• The J-profile is used to form various connections.

The tool you will need is a screwdriver, sharp scissors for metal and all kinds of measuring devices - tape measure, level and iron ruler.

Stage one - assembly of the sheathing and insulation

The task of the subsystem or frame is to serve as the basis for attaching heat-insulating and facing materials, as well as to level out all the unevenness of the walls of a country cottage. Therefore, the installation of lathing is a responsible matter, affecting the appearance and service life curtain façade with siding. The wooden frame must be assembled in the following sequence:

1. Before working with wood, it must be coated with an antiseptic and allowed to dry.
2. By pulling the twine parallel to the wall, determine the place where it protrudes the most. Here you need to install the first vertical beam. IN log house it is necessary to cut down the protruding cuts in advance.
3. Focusing on the outer plane of this beam, attach the remaining elements of the sheathing in increments of 40 to 60 cm. To support one vertical plane, put under the bars wooden coasters required height.
4. When insulating basalt wool between vertical posts you need to install 2-3 rows of horizontal jumpers, because over time this material tends to settle and expose part of the structure.
5. Lay insulation between the beams and cover the entire façade with windproof film.

Reference. The installation step of the frame elements is taken according to the width of the insulating material (50 or 60 mm), so that there is not a lot of waste left after trimming. If you plan to install siding without thermal insulation, then install the bars at intervals of 40 cm (recommendations from the Deuke brand - a manufacturer of PVC panels).

A few words about how to attach insulation and wind protection. Foam or mineral wool slabs are inserted between the beams of the subsystem and fixed with special construction “fungi” directly to the wall. The film sheets must be laid out horizontally, starting from the bottom, and nailed to the sheathing using strips 3-5 cm thick. This way, ventilation is provided between the heat-insulating layer and the siding.

To collect metal carcass, a similar method is used, only galvanized profiles are mounted on adjustable brackets. Separate staples are used to secure the insulation. In the case when it is necessary to clad the facade with siding vertically, the elements of the subsystem are attached to the wall in a horizontal position. More information about installing metal sheathing is shown in the video instructions:

Step two - installation of strips and guides

Before you start self-installation wall or basement siding made of PVC, it should be understood important feature: Plastic expands noticeably when exposed to temperatures. This means that vinyl panels and framing elements expand when heated. To new cladding the house has not bent or warped; between all ends and hidden connections a gap of 6 mm must be left for expansion.

Note. For the same purpose, self-tapping screws or nails that secure siding parts must not be tightened or driven in until they stop. The installed element should move freely within the oval cutouts where you screw the screws.

We set the starting bar

Installation instructions for siding guides look like this:

1. Maintaining a horizontal position, screw in the base ebbs, going around the entire house.
2. Mount the starter strips close to the flashings and secure them by nailing them to each frame post.
3. Taking advantage building level, align the corner strip vertically and secure it with self-tapping screws. If there is a ceiling (for example, when covering under a canopy or balcony), do not forget to leave a 6 mm gap at the top.
4. Using the same technology, install window trims, cutting the edges at 45°. Attach the tides.
5. If it is necessary to form plastic slopes, then screw it to window frame J-profile, where the siding panel will then be inserted.
6. Install the finishing element at the top of the wall, as shown in the picture.

We attach the finishing profile

Advice. It happens that the length of some shaped strip is not enough. Then the continuation of the corner profile is overlapped by 2.5 cm, and the start and finish strips are butted with a technological indent of 6 mm.

Installing a corner element

Two words about how to attach corner profiles. First, 2 screws are screwed in from above so that the part hangs on them, and at other points (40 cm interval) the screws are screwed in the middle of the oval cutouts.

As you understand, above are instructions for horizontal installation vinyl siding. To mount the panels vertically, the same technology is used, only the corner profile serves as the starting strip, and the ends are finished with J-straps or elements in the form ceiling plinth. The cladding of the base is done in a similar way, only a different, more durable cladding material is used (available in the form of PVC sheets). The process is described in great detail in a training video from the Deke company:

The third stage - siding

Do-it-yourself finishing of the house with siding is the last and easiest stage of the work. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

1. Cut the panels to fit the dimensions of the façade, allowing for a 6mm gap on each side.
2. Insert the first sheet of siding into the grooves of the corner profiles, while simultaneously inserting it into the lock of the starting strip. Adjust the position of the panel so that there are gaps on both sides (they are not visible behind the corner trim).
3. Screw the siding strip to the sheathing with self-tapping screws or nails. Place the screws in the center of the oval holes.
4. Install the remaining panels in the same way.
5. When you get to the top, the last panel will probably be too wide. Cut it along its entire length and put it in place.

Advice. If the strips are not long enough (and they are sold at 6 m in the market and in stores), do not overlap them; such a connection looks ugly. Divide the wall into 2 or 3 parts and install connecting profiles, which will also serve as decorative elements.

When fastening, the screw is placed in the middle of the hole

It is customary to install soffits under roof overhangs - flat panels that are installed in guides without fastening to the frame. The same corner profiles, starting strip and J-bar are used here. The listed elements are attached depending on the overhang configuration, and then the cut soffits are inserted into their grooves, as shown in the diagram.

Installing siding on wooden sheathing is clearly shown in the next video:

Conclusion

There are 2 difficult moments in the installation procedure - leveling the frame and fastening the shaped elements of the siding; here it is allowed larger number errors. Hence the advice: when studying the instructions and video materials, focus on these operations and take your time when performing them; if necessary, print out the diagrams. After successful assembly, the cladding should be washed washing powder, dissolved in water.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from Eastern Ukrainian National University them. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.