How to make a homemade wood band saw with your own hands. A simple homemade band saw Drawings of homemade band saws

Carrying out with your own hands large quantity works of one kind or another, which involve extensive use of the board, wooden beam and that similar materials, is associated with the need to saw logs. It is clear that you can always purchase ready-to-use materials, which is not difficult nowadays, or you can buy a tape factory sawmill for industrial purposes. But such decisions are associated with significant material costs, and this is not always justified.

A cheaper option is to develop your own wood band saw, but for this you will need to have drawings, a blade made of durable metal, cutting material, as well as some other parts.

The main part of such a home sawmill is the saw and the motor that will drive it. The best option– an engine with a power of 10 kW: in this case, you can easily cut any logs into boards using a home-made machine.

What do you need to make your own machine?

Assemble this with your own hands band saw It is quite possible using ready-made drawings, thanks to this it will be possible to saw any logs into boards right at home. To perform this work - manual assembly of the machine - you will need:

• some parts of old cars;
• long rolled products;
• Carrying out metalwork and turning works;
• minor welding work.

While assembling something like this band press for wood, you can use old pulleys from any agricultural machinery, the optimal diameter of which is about 30 cm. The guides are like this homemade sawmill It is best to do it with two types of metal pipes: a half-inch diameter and a slightly larger one, as a result of which the latter can be put on smaller pipes, leaving a slight gap of about 0.5 mm.

Making a base and a device for securing logs

At the first stage of carrying out such work with one’s own hands, a base is made for the future machine for turning ordinary logs into quality boards. Metal corners are suitable as a material for this. They should be installed with the side up, and it is necessary to achieve maximum accuracy in adjusting the wheels, otherwise they will quickly wear out.

Perpendicular to these corners are welded profile pipes measuring 2.5 × 2.5 mm, between them there is a pipe with a diameter of half an inch, on which the claws, which are fasteners for logs, are attached.

Such fastening devices must move easily in necessary parties. To securely fix the log, it is enough to hit the clamps a couple of times with a hammer, as a result of which the mechanism for fixing the material will jam, and all the required operations can be carried out with it.

When assembling the saw yourself belt type profile pipes made of solid metal, which are installed perpendicular to the base, should be made in such a way that they protrude slightly beyond the base. In addition, jumpers should be installed on these pipes: logs will be placed on them before sawing on the machine.

How to install pulleys correctly

The machine pulleys should be sharpened in such a way that when putting on the belt protrudes beyond their edge by a couple of centimeters. This entire structure moves along special guides - pipes, which are located horizontally. This unit, if necessary, can be fixed in the desired location using bolts.

To prevent the tape from falling off the pulleys while working on the machine, they need to be installed not parallel, but at a slight angle - as a result of this installation, the tape will “pull” itself onto the rollers while the saw is running.

The right pulley is used as a driven pulley, so it is necessary to attach a spring to it that automatically tensions it during operation. The left pulley, therefore, is the leading one, so it must be firmly fixed when manually assembling the tape machine. When changing the size of the saw, the drive pulley must be moved.

How to make the correct roller assembly

In a self-made band saw machine, the best option would be to use hardened rollers. The right decision will make the entire assembly with rollers with his own hands and be confident in its reliability, and not use a ready-made one.

This unit consists of 3 bearings, two of which are grade 202, and another one, at the back, is slightly larger. The shaft and rollers must be turned in such a way that if the width of the machine saw is reduced or increased, it remains possible to install washers between the bearings.

The shaft should fit into two tubes: a half-inch and a slightly larger one, inserting one into the other. In a half-inch pipe, the shaft should have a slight axis offset; in fact, it is welded to the bottom wall.

This entire machine assembly, which consists of tubes and a shaft, is attached to the guides with your own hands in such a way that it is possible to adjust the roller assembly in height, move it to the sides depending on the diameter of the logs processed on the machine made by yourself, and also securely fix it after completing the adjustment.

Frame and additional elements

The frame, the height of which should be one and a half meters, is made with your own hands from channel 100; to give the structure additional rigidity, it is reinforced with gussets. The machine block, which will cut the logs, will move along the channels using pin screws. Rigid fixation of the cutting unit of the saw to the sawmill is carried out using bolts with locknuts.

To make the machine more convenient to use, you can make an additional device for it with your own hands in which the chips will be collected. In the very simple case this is an ordinary wooden or plywood box, you can also use something else similar.

Thus, you can make a homemade band saw according to the drawings yourself, even in a garage or small home workshop. But thanks to this homemade instrument With a saw, you can produce boards right on your site by sawing logs.

Working with such a tool, made using ready-made drawings with your own hands, is quite simple. By placing a log on the bed, fixing it and turning on the mechanism, he will quickly make necessary processing logs using a band saw.

During use homemade machine it is necessary to constantly ensure that his saw always remains sharp, and also adhere to safety regulations.

Band-saw can be made with your own hands even by a person without relevant work experience.

A homemade band saw is an indispensable assistant when working with wooden products.

When selecting tools for a home workshop, a band saw is most often not included in the category of basic tools, since most operations can be performed without it. However, there are times when you can do without of this device will not work.

Blueprints homemade saw tape type can be seen in Fig. 1 and 2.

The characteristics of the attachment will depend on the motor, saw blades and workpieces used.

Sequence of actions for making a band saw

Elements that will be needed to build such a structure:

• Sander;
• metal corners;
• steel sheets;
• plywood sheet;
• wooden slats;
• screws;
• pliers.

How to make a frame for a saw?

To build a band saw, you must have all the tools.

The main element of the machine is the frame. It can be glued together from several layers of overlapping boards. The frame cannot be made of chipboard, MDF, plywood sheets or furniture panels. The design has C-shape. A base for the guide of the tension device with an upper wheel is installed on top, and several legs are fixed at the bottom, which are connected to the base. The frame should consist of 6 layers and overlays. To increase rigidity, diagonal jumpers should be installed. During the process of step-by-step gluing, you need to ensure the perpendicularity of the elements. This is necessary so that the frame turns out flat.

On initial stage the frame is glued together without a base, but it is important to provide appropriate recesses. It is most convenient to glue the base after installing the lower wheel axle block. The base should be sanded and varnished in several layers.

Wheel fixation block

Figure 1. Drawing of a homemade band saw: 1 - band drive pulley, 2 - base, 3 - band saw, 4 - A710 V-belt, 5 - damper, 6 - guide, 7 - carrier rod, 8 - band drive pulley, 9 - table, 10 - electric motor AOL-22-2, 11 - belt drive pulleys, 12 - bracket, 13 - M12 nut, 14 - upper support, 15 - adjusting screw, 16 - slider.

The first step is to assemble and install the movable wheel fixation unit. It should move vertically and tension the saw blade. To do this, you need to fix the oak profile. The block is a rectangular frame with a wheel shaft holder installed. To strengthen corner connections, you can install additional inserts. Once the frame is glued, you will need to cut the recesses in the corners. Next, triangular inserts are cut out and the recesses are glued in. On the sides of the frame you need to select quarters for the guides. The frame should move freely in the recesses. The springing effect in the process of tensioning the canvas will be created by oak plates.

Next you will need to install saw wheels with a diameter of 40 cm. They can be made of MDF or plywood sheets. Blanks can be cut using a milling machine. In the central part of the circle, you need to drill a 0.6 mm hole, and then install it in it. central part router compass. This hole can then be used to align the workpieces. It is recommended to make circles with an allowance of a few millimeters for final processing.

Before attaching the flanges to the wheel, you will need to cut out the lower wheel shaft retainer. It must be secured to the bottom of the frame. The part is made from wooden slats. It is not recommended to drill a hole in the frame, as the drill may move away. The holder can be rotated to the angle required for correction.

Several technological recesses must be drilled in the wheels so that during the gluing process the plates can be threaded for additional fixation.

Construction of a working base, rod and other elements

The working base of the file must be made of a 20 mm thick plywood sheet, which is covered with textolite on top. Along the perimeter it must be edged with planks of hard wood. To lay the tape in the table, it is necessary to provide grooves of small width. As a base, you can use a box measuring 500x720x420 mm. It needs to be glued together from 20 mm plywood. This element will also serve as a place to store sawdust.

Figure 2. Drawing of a homemade band saw: 1 - base, 2 - M6 bolt (2 pcs.), 3 - strip, 4 - nut with washer.

The supporting rod can be made from a channel 680 mm long. Its shelves must be cut to a height of 20 mm. The bar should be secured to the table using a bracket made of metal corner 40x40 mm and several M8 bolts. The belt drive pulleys can be machined from the same 20 mm thick plywood. On the working base they need to be covered with thick rubber, which is butted together. This can be done using a polyurethane adhesive mixture. Once the pulleys are covered with rubber, you will need to soak wooden elements epoxy resin, sand and paint. On next stage the working base needs to be shaped like a barrel, which is needed so that you can easily hold the tape. You will need to glue a duralumin bushing into the upper pulley. A hole for the bearing must be machined in this element.

The lower pulley should be placed on a metal axle and secured with several 5x20 mm screws. The axle must be inserted into a box with several bearings. The structure must be mounted at the lower end of the rod. At the other end of the axle, you will need to fix the driven pulley through the bushing. After installation, you need to balance the belt pulleys. The pulleys are made of duralumin. The operating principle and dimensions of the elements of the tape tension device are shown in the drawing.

Installation of dampers and guide

To eliminate vibrations of the tape, you will need to install a damper. It can be assembled from textolite. The part is secured with M6 bolts at the bottom of the work table. The movable rail makes it possible to select the desired gap. It is worth noting that the saw also has an upper damper. However, it is reasonable to install it only if the upper pulley begins to hit the diameter of the part. In other situations, such a damper will only increase belt friction. If necessary, it can be secured to the rod using a metal bracket. The part is attached 10.5 cm above the plane of the working surface.

A guide for feeding the plank to be cut can be constructed from a metal corner 100x100 mm. It is recommended to grind its perpendicular planes. In one of the shelves in the extreme parts you need to make several recesses to adjust the gap. A cutout should be made in the middle part to increase the stroke of the rack. Safety during operation can be ensured by a protective cover that covers the entire upper belt pulley assembly. The part to be cut must exit the casing cavity only in the working area.

Installation of the saw band

Particular attention should be paid to the saw blade itself. To do this, you will need to prepare sheet metal. The thickness of the metal should be 0.2-0.4 mm if you plan to saw soft wood. If you need to cut harder types of wood, then the thickness of the metal should be approximately 0.4-0.8 mm. Most people use steel tape measures that are approximately 0.2mm thick and 10mm wide. Automatic devices with a curved belt profile are not allowed to be used - only old copies will do. The length of the part for the given dimensions of the machine is 160-170 cm. You need to cut teeth on the strip using a file. The pitch of the elements is 3 mm.

At the next stage, the tape will need to be soldered into a ring, and the ends at a length of 4-5 mm will need to be sharpened to a miter thickness. After this, the soldering area should be sprinkled with borax and heated to gas burner. Solder should be applied to the joint, then compress the seam tightly with asbestos-lined pliers. If there are no such pads on the tool, the joint will quickly cool and the metal in the jaw area will become brittle. If necessary, the joint can be sanded.

To get more quality foundation cut, the teeth should be sharpened and slightly spread.

In this case, you can also use blades for branded band-type saws, which are sold in stores. However, the dimensions of the machine will have to be determined in advance, taking into account the size of the purchased canvas.

The disadvantage of this option homemade device- small overhang of the canvas. However, it should be understood that this greatly simplifies the design. If such a web overhang is not suitable, then you can increase it. This can be done by changing the location of the support rod and using large diameter pulleys.

It is not easy to build a homemade band saw with your own hands, but if you follow the technology, you can avoid most problems during manufacturing.

If you have any hobby, you usually need special tools. Hobbies are different, and accordingly, the amount of technology is also amazing. It can be very complex or as simple as a Soviet nickel. The first, for example, includes a band saw for wood or metal. They use it, of course, not only to satisfy their creative needs, but also for more serious work. For example, for repairs.

What kind of instrument is this?

A band saw is a cutting tool equipped with many cutters.

Actually, only the cutting surface is called this way, and the tool itself is called a machine tool. And that’s what we can call working equipment. The band saw itself is a strip of metal, preferably steel, which is rolled into a ring. On one side there are teeth cut, which allow it to work as a cutting tool.

This tape must be installed on a pair of rotating pulleys of the machine - an electric motor connected to the mains is used to create movement. This way you can create both straight and curved cuts.

Why do it yourself?

It is preferable, of course, to purchase a tool in a special store that sells just such equipment. True, there are two “buts” here:

• A price that may seem too high for the average person.
• Functionality - the point here is that a band saw is not always included in the list of required tools for a workshop. Most operations can be done without its help, which means there is no reason to purchase an overly expensive unit.

The second reason basically follows from the first - if the price were not too high, then most would purchase such an instrument. This is logical, because it is very convenient to work on.

Design

The project presented here is based on the development of Matthias Wandel, a Canadian inventor who assembled his saw mainly from wood. You might think that it would be better to use metal for such a tool, but that’s not entirely true.

A band saw machine of this assembly demonstrates good performance, quite comparable to purchased models. In addition, the easily replaceable material allows you to instantly carry out Maintenance. Concern for replacement parts will fade into the background.

It is also important to remember that a lot will depend on the selected engine (it is better to use a ready-made one), the saw for the band saws and the workpieces.

Saw frame

Is the main one load-bearing element the entire structure. You need to use strong wood - in no case chipboard, MDF, plywood or furniture board. A pine inch is perfect for this purpose.

The frame shape is C-shaped. On top you need to make a base for the guides of the tension mechanism with the upper wheel. On the opposite side, two supports are fixed, which in the future will be connected to the base. The structure itself is multi-layered - about six layers for strength. But this is not even counting the additional overlays.

Step-by-step gluing is fraught with distortion and inaccuracies. Therefore, you need to strictly control the perpendicularity of the elements. You can also make a frame without support legs, but be sure to leave grooves of the required size for them.

Top wheel motor block

This is the second step to getting your hands on a wood and metal band saw. The block is a movable structural element that provides belt tension.

Installation takes place on an already prepared frame - the horns of the letter “C”, which were left empty. You need to secure the profile (preferably hardwood). It is a wooden rectangular frame, inside of which a movable holder for the upper wheel shaft is installed.

The corner joints of the frame can be strengthened with inserts. In this kind of work, reliability comes first.

The block itself should move freely. In the upper part, make a hole for a long bolt - this way the metal band saw can adjust the tension.

The shaft holder must have a tilt adjustment installed - usually a screw serves this purpose. The holder itself is secured in place with two self-tapping screws. To achieve the mobility you need in the future, you need to leave enough play.

A metal lining is installed under the screw, and the shaft itself, after adjustment, will be fixed using another self-tapping screw.

Saw wheels

Here it is quite appropriate to use those materials that were rejected earlier. For example, MDF or chipboard. The design on which the band saw is assembled requires wheels with a diameter of forty centimeters. The thickness may vary, but it is about two to three centimeters.

The construction here is also glued, made of several layers.

The crucial moment, as you might guess, is the central part.

You can make wheels on a milling machine. For convenience, immediately drill a hole in the center to align the circles, and also try to leave about a centimeter for finishing after assembly.

You need shafts for ready-made bearings, with a limiter and internal thread on opposite sides. The flanges can be made from the same plywood. They consist of two parts - the first holds the bearing, and the second provides clearance between it and the wheel itself.

Diameter drilled hole should not strictly correspond to the threaded shaft - it is better that the first one is slightly larger than the last one.

You will need two wheels, since a band saw for metal or wood provides such a design. They are identical in size and are manufactured at the same time.

Also, to prevent the saw blade from slipping, you can give the initially round wheels a slightly barrel-shaped shape - this will help avoid many problems. The bevel angle on each side should be five degrees.

On one of the wheels, install a standard drive pulley, adjusted to the belt used.

The last part of the work is balancing. For this, small bearings are used to support the tape. The temporary axis is mounted horizontally, the bearings mentioned earlier are installed, and slight rotation is started.

To improve performance, you can make several recesses in the lower part back side wheels - this helps to avoid rotation in any position.

Wheel fastening

The top one is installed first. Washers are put on the shaft. The wheel itself must be secured with a bolt plus a thick washer. It all screws into the end of the shaft. Using adjusting screws, install it parallel to the frame.

The lower wheel block is secured with clamps, after which it is hung on the frame. Next, set the wheels so that they represent one plane, parallel to vertical rack. Afterwards, do not forget to fix the lower shaft.

Setting the saw blade guides

Some skill is required here - place one of the ends of the tape (which is smooth) against the outer ring of the bearing.

It should be supported from the sides. You can use fluoroplastic “crackers”, but it’s better wood will do- the latter wears out more slowly.

The protective casing is simply a cut pipe, securely fastened with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws.

The tire must be installed with extreme precision - for a band saw, any misalignment will be noticeable. The tire is secured to the frame using a groove. You can mark everything on a wide canvas.

If you make a mistake with the groove, then simply widen it and make a corner of metal and a spacer from pieces of paper glued to it. Thus, the tape should stand straight. The corner, of course, needs to be carefully secured.

The latch is equipped with two holes. The first is used to press the tire as reliably as possible, and the second is used only when working with very thick workpieces. It allows you to lift the first part.

Instead of a conclusion

A very important procedure is the sharpening of band saws.

Moreover, the teeth must be smooth, otherwise the device will quickly become dull. You can use a regular sharpening wheel. Depending on the saw material - corundum, CBN or diamond. You also need to finish the job with fine-grained whetstone.

The main thing in such a process is to approach the matter wisely and patiently. A DIY band saw is a labor-intensive and long-term project. Mistakes are not allowed here. But if you do everything according to the instructions and consult the advice of experts, then soon a new tool will appear in your workshop.

So, we found out how to make a band saw with your own hands.

Many tasks can be completed using a specialized bandsaw created by with my own hands. Using the recommendations in this article, reproducing this device is quite simple.

1 - belt drive pulley (lower), 2 - base, 3 - band saw, 4 - V-belt A710, 5 - damper, 6 - guide, 7 - carrier rod, 8 - belt drive pulley (upper), 9 - table ( plywood s20), 10 - electric motor AOL-22-2, 11 - belt drive pulleys, 12 - bracket (steel angle 40x40), 13 - M12 nut (2 pcs.), 14 - upper support, 15 - adjusting screw, 16 - slider

The desktop of a homemade band saw (dimensions 420x720 mm) is made of 20 mm thick plywood covered with textolite on top. It is edged along the perimeter with hardwood slats. To guide the sawing band, narrow grooves are provided in the table. The base is a box measuring 420x720x500 mm, glued together from 20 mm plywood. Among other things, it serves as a place for collecting sawdust.

The supporting rod is a section of channel No. 8, 680 mm long, the flanges of which, for convenience, are cut to a height of 20 mm. The rod is attached to the table using a bracket made from a 40x40 mm angle and four M8 bolts. The saw belt drive pulleys are machined from 20 mm thick plywood. On the working surface they are covered with dense sheet rubber, joined at the edge. Used polyurethane glue. After rubberizing the pulleys, the wood is impregnated with epoxy resin, sanded and painted. The working surface is given a barrel shape necessary to hold the running saw blade. A duralumin bushing is glued into the upper pulley with epoxy resin, in which a seat is machined for a 60203 ball bearing. The lower pulley is mounted on an axle made of steel type 30KhGSA and secured with three 5x20 screws. The axle is inserted into an axle box with two ball bearings 60203, installed at the lower end of the support rod. At the other end of the axle, the driven pulley of the belt drive is fixed through a spacer bushing. After installation, the belt pulleys are balanced. The principle of operation and dimensions of the parts of the sawing belt tension system are clear from the given figures (section A-A).

Belt Drive Pulley (Upper)

The gear ratio of the belt drive from the engine is i=1, so the drive and driven pulleys are the same, with the exception of the mounting hole, which on the drive pulley depends on the motor shaft. The pulleys are made of duralumin. V-belt- A710 (in this design).

To eliminate vibrations of the sawing belt, a damper (vibration absorber) is provided, assembled from textolite parts on M6 bolts. The fixed element of the damper is fixed at the bottom of the work table, and the movable bar allows you to select the required gap. It should be noted that the band saw also has an upper damper, but its installation is advisable if the upper pulley of the saw band begins to “beat the diameter.” Otherwise, the upper damper only increases belt friction. It is similar in design to the main one and, if necessary, is mounted on the rod with M5 bolts using a special bracket 105 mm above the plane of the desktop.

1 - base, 2 - M6 bolt (2 pcs.), 3 - strip, 4 - nut with washer.

The guide for feeding the sawn timber is made of steel angle 100x100 mm. It is advisable to grind its perpendicular planes on a machine. Two grooves are made in one of the shelves along the edges to adjust the gap between the guide and. tape, and in the middle there is a cutout to increase the stroke of the bar. Safety during operation is ensured by a protective casing that covers the entire assembly of the upper pulley of the sawing band, which exits the casing cavity only in the working area.

The saw blade itself deserves a lot of attention. It must be sufficiently elastic, on the one hand, and durable, on the other. For its manufacture, we recommend cold-rolled sheet steel grade U8, U10 or 65G with a thickness of 0.2-0.4 mm for sawing soft rocks wood (balsa, linden) or 0.4-0.8 mm - for harder species. By the way, many people use steel tape measures made of high-quality metal with a thickness of 0.2 mm and a width of about 10 mm for these purposes. "Automatic" modern tape measures with a curved tape profile are unsuitable - only old samples are suitable. The length of the workpiece for the given dimensions of the machine is 1600-1700 mm. On the blank strip, teeth are cut with a file in increments of about 3 mm, after which the strip is soldered into a ring, the ends at a length of 3-6 mm are sharpened to a miter thickness. Then the joint is sprinkled with borax and heated on a gas burner. PSR-40 brand solder is applied to the joint and the seam is tightly compressed with pliers with asbestos pads on the jaws (otherwise the joint cools quickly and the metal in this area becomes brittle). If necessary, the joint is sanded. To get more high-quality surface When cutting, the front and rear surfaces of the teeth are sharpened similarly to a hacksaw for wood and slightly set apart. Of course, you can also use commercially available blades for branded band saws, but then the dimensions of the machine should be made in advance in accordance with the dimensions of the purchased blade.

The considered homemade band saw is used for straight cutting of soft wood (balsa, linden, aspen, spruce, pine). You can also cut harder woods (beech, oak, mahogany) when installing a 0.8 mm thick belt on the machine.

Flaw this option homemade band saw - a small overhang of the blade, but this greatly simplifies the design. If the small overhang of the blade is not satisfactory, then in order for the overhang of the blade to be like that of branded band saws, you will have to make the arrangement of the support bar like theirs and use pulleys of a larger diameter.

Technical characteristics of a homemade band saw:
Maximum sawing thickness, mm
soft rocks - up to 100
hard rocks - up to 40
Minimum cutting width, mm - 0.25
Belt drive pulley diameter, mm - 240
Center distance of belt drive pulleys, mm - up to 500
Gear ratio from engine to drive pulley, i - 1
Engine speed, rpm - 2800
Electric motor power, kW - 0.6
Rated voltage, V - 380
Linear speed of the belt, m/s - 35
Tape length, mm - 1600-1700
Sawing speed, m/min - up to 5
Overall dimensions, mm - 720x420x920

There are many various instruments for sawing workpieces – this is also hand saws, cutting saws, jigsaws, etc. But the band saw occupies a special place among them. This article will focus on making a homemade bandsaw.

Introduction

In the workshop, everything should be at hand and the abundance of tools makes the master truly free to choose methods and techniques of work. One of the most basic operations in any workshop is sawing workpieces. Moreover, sawing can be different - somewhere you need to saw off quickly and the quality of the cut is not important, somewhere you need a blind saw and a special one will do the job, somewhere you need an extremely even saw, and so on.

A DIY wood band saw deserves pride of place in the workshop. Not everyone has it, however, the ease of its use is undeniable. Its advantages include the following features:

1. High cutting quality, as there is no return movement of the cutting blade.
2. High sawing speed, as the cutting band moves at high speed.
3. High maneuverability when sawing due to the small thickness of the cutting blade.
4. High versatility and flexibility of tool use.
5. High operational safety.

However, the band saw also has disadvantages. Let's list them:

1. This is a stationary saw, so there is no possibility of its mobile movement.
2. Limited sawing area due to design features.
3. Large dimensions.

Making a band saw

Preparing for work

When starting work, you need to prepare all the tools and materials, as well as a place where it will be comfortable and safe to make a homemade band saw.

Tools:

Materials, fittings, fasteners

• 15 mm thick;
• Solid wood block;
• Bolts for horizontal and vertical adjustment;
• PVA carpentry glue;
• Wing for adjustment bolts;
• Insulating tape;
• Bearings for the upper axle;
• Two bearings for the drive axle;
• Two shafts;
• Cutting blade;
• Two bushings with internal thread;
• Self-tapping screws, nuts, washers, fittings, studs;
• Tapes or attachments for or.

Main structural elements

The band saw drawing will include the following components:

• Base;
• Tape tension mechanism;
• Pulleys;
• Saw blade (cutting tape).

Manufacturing of structural elements

The manufacturing instructions will be divided into 5 points and include steps to produce a homemade bandsaw. The article provides photo and video materials that will help you not make mistakes during production.

Base

• Since the band saw must be strong, it is necessary to prepare a thickness of at least 15 mm. We cut four blanks 550 mm long and 23 mm wide.

• Next, we make the markings using a pre-created stencil, or you can make the markings directly on the workpiece. The two plates located inside must have a niche for the adjustable mechanism. For external parts it is necessary to draw a through groove. Magnitude vertical adjustment will depend on the size of this groove. Next you need to mark through hole for the lower drive shaft. In addition, we will need a surface for a saw table, the dimensions of which in terms of the width of the table will not exceed 150 mm. In all workpieces, it is necessary to cut a square between the circles in height equal to 15-20 cm, and not exceeding 15 cm in width.

• Using the necessary parts, as well as the adjustment groove for the upper pulley, then drill a hole for the lower drive shaft.

• Next, you need to assemble the future foundation. For assembly, use PVA glue or any other wood glue. We apply it in an even layer on all the surfaces to be glued, then we apply the parts to each other, avoiding inaccuracy. Fixing the products must be done with clamps, since high-quality gluing requires a tight fit of the workpieces. It is necessary to wait a day until the glue dries completely.

• We install bearings for the lower drive shaft.

Saw blade (band) tension mechanism

• To make a tensioning mechanism for a band saw, you need to make a block, the dimensions of which will correspond to the niche in the saw body. A hole is drilled at the end of the block for the pin and fitting. Sockets for bearings are cut out on both sides.

• We insert the pin and secure it in the block. It should stay firmly in the hole. To increase the strength of the fastening, before inserting the pin, apply PVA glue to its surface, and you also need to additionally secure the pin with a self-tapping screw or screw.

• It is necessary to install a handle on the pin, the rotation of which will allow you to change the depth of immersion of the bar into the base, thereby changing the distance between the pulleys - this is how the belt is tensioned.

Pulleys

While the base glue dries, we begin to manufacture the moving elements, namely the pulleys. The entire process of their manufacture is reflected in the photographs provided.

• On a sheet 15 mm thick, you need to mark the contours - a circle with a diameter of 150 mm.
• Cut the blanks along the outlined contours and drill a hole in the center of the circle.

• Even the most precise and careful sawing will not give the workpiece perfect correct forms, so it is necessary to grind the ends. To do this, it will be used with a table at 90 degrees relative to the plane being processed. If you don't have suitable tool, it is possible to grind the edge using a manual grinder or a homemade device for with a grinding attachment. The workpiece is fixed with a bolt or self-tapping screw to a certain base. Thus, when it is fed to the grinding wheel and rotated around its axis, a perfectly smooth circle is obtained.

• After processing the pulley on a grinder, you need to wrap its ends insulating tape in several layers, and you can also use rubber from bicycle inner tubes.

The saw table will be 15 cm wide. It will be installed on a special end face of the base of the machine between the pulleys. You need to make a cut in the table for free movement of the saw blade. The dimensions of the table being manufactured depend on the needs and preferences of the craftsman. You can make a small table that only slightly protrudes beyond the machine and saves space, or you can make the upper surface area larger for ease of work. As always, in life you need to choose the “golden mean”, so the final decision is up to the master.

Saw blade (cutting band)

It is best not to make the cutting blade yourself, but to buy a ready-made one. In stores you can find the most various options, which differ in type, size, type of steel used, hardening of the material, shape of the teeth, their setting, etc.

Below is a table with some parameters of saw blades.

In addition, band saws differ in tooth size:

• with small tooth
• with middle tooth
• with large teeth

The greater the hardness of the tape, the greater its resistance to dulling. The rigid blade allows you to cut material at high feed rates without reducing performance characteristics work.

In this case, for our band saw, the best option was to choose a blade 1065 mm long made of carbon steel, marked Constant Hardness.

Assembly

• Processing the base. After the glue has completely dried, you need to remove the clamps and treat the gluing area, ends and other surfaces.
• Installation of the saw blade tension mechanism. It is installed in the mounting groove, and a thrust element must be placed on top. During operation, the mechanism must be firmly fixed.

• Installation of pulleys. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the installed pulleys must be parallel to each other and rotate easily around their axis, while the axis must be absolutely static. Strong beating of the wheels is not allowed, as this can lead to the saw blade slipping off the pulley and injuring the operator. The lower drive shaft must pass through the housing and have reverse side end long enough to be clamped into the drill chuck. The upper pulley is installed in the saw blade tension mechanism.

• Installation of the cutting blade. The saw blade should be installed over the ends of the pulleys. First, it should fit freely onto this structure, and by rotating the adjustment knob, the block with the axis of the upper pulley moves upward, thus increasing the distance between the centers of the pulleys. In this case, the tape is tensioned. After tensioning, you need to tighten the screw in the fitting to firmly fix the tension mechanism.

• Installation of the saw table. The saw table is located on the horizontal surface of the base, as shown in the photo. Its area should be sufficient for a comfortable process of sawing the workpiece. It should be noted that the perpendicularity of the table is very important saw blade, and in two dimensions – longitudinal and transverse. The table is fastened with self-tapping screws. Although there is an option to “plant” it with glue, and install dowels for strength.
• Installation of power tools. Actually last stage we need to make this design come to life. To do this, you need to clamp the shank of the drive shaft of the lower pulley into the drill chuck. Alternatively, you can use a hammer drill or. But the power will be clearly insufficient, so still use a drill or hammer drill.

• Setting up and commissioning. Before starting work, run the band saw at idle speed. Make sure that the tape does not slip and runs smoothly. Check its tension and fixation of the saw blade tension mechanism.

Rules for working on a band saw

A large volume of processed materials requires the installation of a blade with large teeth on the machine. The best option is to use universal band saws.

• at large size the workpiece to be processed should be mounted on a band saw with large teeth; It is better to use cutting tapes universal type. This way there will be no need to change the blade when processing different materials;
• Decide on the installation location of the machine and securely mount it on a static surface, avoiding vibrations during operation. The room in which the band saw will be installed must be well ventilated.
• After finishing work, remove the sawing band and, accordingly, tighten it only before work. This will extend the period beneficial use canvases
• Every two hours of operation, turn off the band saw and give the motor, in this example the drill, a rest, and at the same time check for malfunctions. Compliance with this rule will protect the worker from injury and the tool from overheating.
• Check the set of cutting teeth from time to time.

Conclusion

At correct assembly and use, the band saw has a long service life. You should only sharpen the belt from time to time and monitor the condition of the main parts.

Video

Video this review is based on: