How to assemble a ceiling box from plasterboard? We assemble a plasterboard box along the wall or under the ceiling: the principle is the same, the nuances are different. How to make a corner box from plasterboard.

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Hiding communications and installing unique lighting cannot be done without installing a plasterboard box. Assembly of the structure is carried out quickly and allows you to achieve the most aesthetic appearance of the room. To make boxes, you need to purchase profiles, plasterboard sheets, screws, and dowels. Designing structures is easy and simple.

The main purposes of different plasterboard boxes

You can make a neat box from plasterboard with your own hands to hide pipes or to remove lighting. The location of the structure can be either horizontal or vertical. They can be mounted at the junction of walls, along the wall or on the ceiling.

To begin work, you need to draw up a drawing taking into account the size of the area where the work will be performed. Next, study information on how to make a box from plasterboard and prepare the following tools:

pencil, level, tape measure;
rack and guide profile;
drywall (regular or moisture-resistant);
screws, dowels and self-tapping screws.

Next, you need to transfer the markings, prepare the sheets (cut them) and you can directly install plasterboard boxes in an apartment or house. If the structure is small, the work will take about 3-4 hours. It may take 1-2 days to install the ceiling box.

Features of assembling a plasterboard box in the bathroom

The correct installation of the box in the bathroom is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Marks are placed on the wall above the pipes (about 5-10 cm higher), on the floor (with a distance of at least 5 cm from the pipes).

2. The lines for fixing the profiles are outlined, the lines are transferred to the wall (a right angle is marked) from which the pipes come out.

3. A guide profile is mounted along the markings on the walls using dowels.

4. Parallel supports are made of a rack profile and fixed to the guide with self-tapping screws. Additionally, jumpers are mounted: they will add strength to the structure. They are installed at a distance of about 30 cm between the rack and guide profiles.

5. A rectangular hole for the hatch is cut out on moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.

6. Sheets are screwed to the frame.

7. The joints are grouted (it is important to remember that joints on perpendicular surfaces should be at different distances from the wall). The box in the plasterboard bathroom is being finished: painting, laying tiles.

8. The hatch frame and the hatch itself are installed.

At this stage, a convenient and practical box for plasterboard pipes will be completely ready. The presence of a hatch on it will provide easy access to communications for their repair.

Installation of a ceiling box in the kitchen

The plasterboard structure on the kitchen ceiling allows you to properly illuminate the work area. But its manufacture is more complex. It is recommended that before starting work, you begin to study the supporting photos and video lessons. This will help eliminate errors when assembling elements and connecting wires. Will help with work and step-by-step instruction:

Markings are placed on the ceiling and walls.

The guide profile is mounted according to the markings.

Two hangers are mounted at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other: they will support the transverse profile that fits into the guide elements.

Small pieces of the profile are mounted perpendicularly between the side profiles on the walls and the ceiling; they must be fixed to the upper end profile.

No matter how hard the most sophisticated designer tries, it is unlikely that he will be able to do without boxes when thinking through the interior design.

We will discuss how to assemble a plasterboard box on the ceiling, in the bathroom, kitchen or toilet in this article.

Any boxes serve specific purposes:

masking communications;
masking elements that do not fit into the design project;
installation of lamps;
a design solution with a purely decorative function.

The most successful material for assembling any boxes is considered to be plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) on a metal profile frame.

The process of assembling a box from gypsum board can be conditionally divided into several stages, the order of which sometimes varies:

Project development.
Drawing the frame on the base surface.
Preparation of blanks for frame assembly.
Installation of the box frame.
Cutting blanks from gypsum plasterboard for cladding the frame.
Sheathing with plasterboard.
Finishing the box.

Box design

Anyone, even someone completely far from design, is quite capable of depicting any design to scale. Is it necessary to do this? For assembling a simple straight box, it’s completely useless. But sometimes installation of multi-level and multi-stage structures is required. In this case, a clear and understandable drawing will help to significantly save time and materials. For example, a gypsum board sheet can be cut in any way. But knowing exactly how to do this, waste can be practically avoided.

Most often, when developing a box project, the installer or designer is guided by a specific need. For example, many bathroom boxes are made a multiple of the size of the tile. And it's convenient. The same applies to any similar structures.

Advice! When thinking through the design of the box, you should understand the basis of the technology: a guide profile is attached to the surface, forming a frame. Then a rack profile, rolled along the edges, is inserted into this profile. This profile is reinforced with suspensions, depending on the rigidity. Thus, a frame is obtained for any gypsum plasterboard structure.

Drawing the wireframe

Drawing lines on the walls and ceiling will help you see the picture clearly. Usage building level will identify shortcomings in the project and clarify details. Rendering is always relevant because the curvature of the base surfaces is very rarely reflected on paper.

Thanks to this action, all workpieces will be made more accurately and will not require further adjustment. In addition, attaching the guide profile along a drawn straight line is much more convenient than adjusting it during installation.

The photo shows a fragment of the installation of the ceiling box frame with markings.

Advice! When drawing lines, it is important not to get confused about which one means what. Therefore, once you start drawing the profile, and not the gypsum board, you need to do this until the end.

Profile cutting for frame

Having a clear drawing duplicated on the base surface, you can prepare several blanks at once. Firstly, it is always easier to measure identical pieces one by one. Secondly, by mounting several parts en masse, you can see the whole picture much better.

Advice! If you need a lot of identical pieces, then it is more convenient to cut them with a small “grinder”. In normal situations, metal scissors do an excellent job of this.

If it is necessary to build up the profile, you can simply insert it one into another, straightening the folding with pliers, and then twisting it with self-tapping screws.

Frame assembly

Having prepared the blanks for the frame, they are baited and fixed, identifying errors and shortcomings. And only after correcting them can everything be firmly fixed.

Advice! It happens that the guide profile falls on hidden electrical wiring. In such situations, it is recommended to mount a wider rack profile instead of this profile, placing fasteners above the wires.

In the photo, instead of PN, a PP profile is used so as not to damage hidden electrical wiring.

In brick and panel houses profiles are fastened using dowels and screws or dowel-nails and a hammer drill. Fasteners are placed every 50 cm. Depending on the result obtained, this distance can be safely reduced.

Advice! You shouldn’t hammer in dowel nails too often, because later, if something happens, it will be more difficult to disassemble. By the way, it is better to hammer in these fasteners with a hammer or hammer drill, but not to tighten them.

Connecting the workpieces together, they are twisted with zinc metal screws. It should be taken into account that self-tapping screws with a drill hold metal worse than sharp ones.

An interesting point is the installation of drywall in places where it is impossible to reach with a screwdriver. In this situation, the problematic section of the box is assembled entirely directly on the floor, and then, using various tricks, it is mounted in place.

Assembling the wall of the box on the floor.

Drywall cutting

Having the assembled section of the box frame in front of your eyes, it can be sheathed with plasterboard. It is very convenient to take several measurements and write them down. Based on this, the sheet can be cut economically. The gypsum board is cut with a sharp utility knife by incision and fracture.

Having cut a sheet of drywall on one side, we break it on the opposite side.

Advice! When marking pieces on the sheet, you need to take into account that the cut sides of the plasterboard are usually applied to curved surfaces.

Sometimes drywall needs to be cut through. You can do this with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Easier - with a sharp knife. You just need to apply a little more force, changing the angle of the knife with each movement.

When measuring and cutting a non-rectangular piece of drywall, you can easily make a mistake and end up with mirror reflection the desired shape. There is no need to be scared and make a second attempt; gypsum boards can be mounted with the rough side instead of the front side. Although this depends on the quality of the material.

Drywall installation

It is better to start screwing the gypsum boards from those parts that could not be firmly fixed, simultaneously adjusting them according to the level. The pitch of the screws is usually 20 cm. It is advisable to recess the caps so that they do not interfere with puttying in the future.

Sometimes there is a need to install a large sheet of plasterboard on a horizontal surface. To prevent it from breaking, it makes sense to prepare a T-shaped stand from the profile.

Advice! When installing pieces of plasterboard, it should be taken into account that it is necessary to leave a gap of 3-7 mm between them for filling it with putty.

Photo of a mounted plasterboard ceiling box ready for finishing.

An important point is the strengthening of the frame during the process of covering it. The profile on which the drywall joint falls must be rigidly secured by means of a suspension. The exception is narrow areas up to 30-40 cm wide, depending on the resulting rigidity.

After installing the box, you should make sure that nothing sticks out or dangles anywhere, there are all the necessary gaps and the required level is maintained everywhere. After this, you can begin finishing.

Widely used in interior design and decoration in Lately received gypsum board sheets (chipboard). This material is very popular, but making a box from chipboard is much more difficult than simple wall cladding. Very often, craftsmen are faced with difficulties in installing a plasterboard box during the work process. We will try to tell you about them in this article.

Why is a chipboard box not cladding?

The difficulty of making a box from chipboard is primarily due to the weight and fragility of this material. Drywall sheets cannot stand alone structural elements, unlike laminate, wood or plastic. The box usually consists of volumetric modules, where each model is a rigid and elastic frame, which is covered with plasterboard, and the box is used as load-bearing element- it is forbidden.

The frame for drywall must be multi-level to withstand the load. The hanging corner of the box is most often visible, and this aggravates the requirements for its stability and durability. However, a crack in the sheathing can also spread from the joint of the slabs if it is not properly sealed, see below. In addition, if the box is horizontal wall or ceiling, its weight is applied to a shoulder several times greater than that of the wall sheathing. The number of points for attaching the frame to the base surface is also several times less than that of the skin, and load bearing capacity building materials are not endless. Finally, the frame itself is not a single-level sheathing, but a rather complex spatial structure to ensure optimal ratio the mechanical parameters of which are more difficult than those of a “flat” lattice, “stuck” to a strong, stable support. If the reliability of the sheathing is approx. 80% depends on the supporting surface, then in the case of a box the relationship is the opposite: its frame must be just as strong on its own, without being attached to anything.

Why do you need a plasterboard box?

A plasterboard box serves as an independent element of the interior, and also, as a rule, performs certain convenient functions. First of all, they create a box in order to hide utility lines and improve the area common use. The advantage of this material is that any finish fits very well on it. Of course, this is only relevant if the box itself is made correctly.

If you are making a box under suspended ceiling, then it must be reinforced, since it will be under load. Design in this case is a secondary matter, and to properly create a box on the ceiling, it is best to contact a craftsman who already has experience working with drywall. But if you decide to do it yourself, then watch a simple video instruction on how to properly make a box on the ceiling.

And if you need a decorative box, then you don’t need much strength from it. But to master the creation of decorative boxes you need to master the basics, which can be seen in this video:

Let's return to the plasterboard boxes. utilitarian purpose. The second most popular type is a box covering a heating radiator. Its design is simple and easy to implement for beginners; the design is clearly tied to the interior (that is, it does not have an independent decorative meaning), and therefore is also not complicated and forgives quite significant flaws. The main thing in this case is to ensure air convection from the battery. We will return to battery boxes later, but for now, see a video review of their possible designs:

However, the most unassuming technical quality work and design, view of the gypsum plasterboard box in Fig. not shown precisely because of its simplicity. This is a simple rectangular ceiling box that encloses a niche with a curtain rod. It is with a plasterboard box for curtains that you need to start, if you have never dealt with gypsum boards before. This will give you the opportunity to get a feel for the material and at the same time, without significant difficulties, master the techniques of working on the ceiling, see video:

Profiles for gypsum boards

The frame for drywall can be made not only from aluminum, but also from durable wood, which has already withstood shrinkage. But assembling a box from wood is much more expensive than from metal, so boxes, as a rule, are assembled exclusively from thin-walled metal profiles. A typical range of steel profiles under chipboard is shown in the figure below:

In addition to types and sizes, the frame can be divided into:

Lightweight frame (wall thickness up to 0.25 mm). This type of frame is used in lightweight designer products and is not durable.
Normal frame (wall thickness up to 0.4 mm). This type is most often used.
Reinforced frame (wall thickness up to 0.6 mm). Used to create large boxes.

Pipes in rooms spoil appearance, so it is recommended to hide them. There are plenty of ways to make them invisible, for example, simply covering them with curtains. But, as practice shows, most often craftsmen use boxes made of different materials, of which the most popular is gypsum board. This design is simple, so building a plasterboard box with your own hands is not a problem. In this way they hide both vertically installed pipes, and horizontally. Mounting technology same. Let's look at it using the vertical option as an example.

Simple rectangular design

The location of the pipes may vary. For example, they can stand in the corner of the room, and then the structure of the gypsum plasterboard box will be in the form of a structure of two walls. If it stands alone near a wall, it will have three walls. Let's consider this option, it will answer the main question how to make a box from plasterboard?

Marking

This is the most important stage. The appearance of the box will depend on it.

So, 20 cm is deposited from the edges of the pipe in two opposite directions. This indicator is not a standard. Everyone chooses according to their requirements and the size of the room itself. It is best to start marking from the ceiling.
Now, along these two points, marks descend to the floor. What is a plumb line used for?
Points on the floor and ceiling are connected by lines.
Now decide on the depth of the box. On the ceiling, using a corner, lines are drawn from two points. The size of the segment is equal to the depth of the structure. The new two points are connected to each other. That is, there should be a rectangle on the ceiling.
Lower from the ceiling using a plumb line two extreme points. You should get exactly the same rectangle on the floor.

Do-it-yourself marking of the frame of the plasterboard box is completed. You can move on to the structure of the frame itself.

Assembling the frame for drywall

First of all, the base from the guide profile is assembled on the ceiling. The sections, cut to the size of the rectangular contour, are installed exactly along the lines and secured with dowels.

Then two guides are installed along the lines marked on the walls. After which the floor contour is assembled in the form of a rectangle. All elements are fastened with dowels in increments of 40-50 cm.

The next stage is the installation of two corner posts. For this, either rack profiles or ceiling profiles are used. Transverse elements are cut out of them (respectively).

Please note that the installation of the crossbar is associated with two different profiles: the guide and, for example, the ceiling. The crossbar will fit into the guide end-on, as is usually the case. Here it will be fastened with self-tapping screws. But connect the ceiling profile to the ceiling in perpendicular planes in the usual way will not work.

Therefore, one edge of the cross member is modified. That is, the profile flanges are cut to the width of the rack, and the horizontal flange is cut to a cone. The result is an element with a horizontal pointed shelf, which is called a tongue. So this tongue is placed on the shelf of the vertical stand and secured with self-tapping screws.

The crossbars are installed horizontally along the entire height of the sides of the structure every 40 or 50 or 60 cm. It is necessary to leave space on the front side for a hatch, through which the pipe system can subsequently be serviced.

Sheathing

Covering a box with plasterboard with your own hands is a very simple matter. Measure the dimensions of the frame, transfer them to a plasterboard sheet, and cut out the strips with a sharp knife.

Now install the strips at their destination, fasten them to the frame with self-tapping screws. After which you need to finish the box yourself. To do this, putty and tape are used to seal the joints. Apply putty to the joint, lay down the tape and apply a layer of putty again.

A strip of the appropriate size is cut out under the inspection hatch. The hatch can be attached to the frame with self-tapping screws or liquid nails.

Backlight

If there is a need to somehow decorate the box with your own hands, then original version- make lighting.

Firstly, wiring is done after the frame is assembled.
Secondly, the wires are attached to the profiles only with clips or clamps.
Thirdly, it is necessary to make holes in the drywall for the lamps. To do this, you can use a drill with a crown. The diameter of the crown is selected to match the diameter of the glass of the lighting fixture. Holes are made on the floor, after which drywall is installed.

Round box

This option for constructing a plasterboard box is more complex, but it looks great. In order to do round design, it is necessary to make a rounded frame.

To do this, it is necessary to install not a rectangular contour, but a semicircular one from the profiles on the ceiling and floor. You can do it like this. Apply markings, measure the length of the semicircle, transfer it to the profile, and cut it off. Now this piece is cut every 7-10 cm along one rack and one shelf. Along the second rack the profile is bent until a figure is obtained.

Why shelf and racks? Any profile is the letter “P”, its legs are racks, the top crossbar is a shelf. Fastening is done by a shelf to load-bearing structure, and other frame elements are attached to the racks.

Both finished elements must be attached to the floor and ceiling. Then connect them vertical posts from ceiling profile. Here, many may have a question, how many racks are needed for the frame for a plasterboard box (made with your own hands) to meet the standard? It all depends on the size of the structure, the minimum should be four.

Gypsum plasterboard box lining

It is not difficult to make a rounded shape for drywall. To do this, the sheet must be moistened on both sides and wait until it is saturated with moisture. You can wet it with a roller. Some craftsmen use a needle roller, believing that in this way they can saturate the sheet faster, because water will penetrate into the gypsum layer through the holes made by the needles.

Then you apply the strip to the frame, secure it on one side vertically with self-tapping screws and slowly bend it to the shape of the frame. In this case, fastening must be done every 30-40 cm. Once the drywall is dry, it will tightly frame the metal frame.

Today on the construction market there are great amount a variety of finishing materials intended for furnishing premises. The most common and versatile is drywall. It is with its help that you can build boxes various designs and purpose.

Peculiarities

The undoubted advantage of a plasterboard box is its ability to mask unsightly interior elements. Sewer pipes, risers with cold and hot water, wires and other communications can be hidden from view by such structures. In addition, they are installed to level the ceiling, correct the curvature of the walls, and they can also be the basis of built-in cabinets.

Like anyone else construction material Drywall has its own characteristics that must be taken into account when working.

Drywall is produced in sheets, which are glued layers of different materials. In the middle of the sheet there is a layer of gypsum, which is covered on both sides with cardboard. Gypsum is a brittle material. To increase its strength, it is impregnated with special additives. Cardboard is also impregnated with a special reinforcing compound, so this finishing material can withstand quite heavy loads.

A plasterboard box consists not only of plasterboard sheets, but also of a frame on which these sheets are attached. The frame itself can be made of either wood or metal. Wooden frame consists of bars with a cross-section of 40x40 or 50x50 mm. To prevent rotting processes, the bars are treated antiseptics and soil compounds.

The base of another type of frame is galvanized metal profiles with a curved U-shape, suitable for working with such material. They do not require special processing, so they are a more profitable option for making boxes. Profiles are divided into guides and main ones.

Advantages and disadvantages

Installing a plasterboard box indoors has many advantages, thanks to both the material itself and the design as a whole:

Plasterboard material is environmentally friendly, so it is used for any premises. With its help you can change the space in enough short term, which is important for complex work.
It is easy to handle, the sheets can be given almost any configuration. And covering the surface with plasterboard does not present much trouble.
The box is installed using both frame and frameless methods. It all depends on the location of the structure. Wooden blocks or metal profiles, which are the base, are perfectly combined with plasterboard sheets.
The durability of the material is also important. Right installed structure will last more than one year.

But there are also disadvantages to using such structures. First of all, this is, of course, the loss of several centimeters of area. After all, the device, despite its attractive appearance, requires some free space, so this nuance must always be taken into account before installation.

Plasterboard sheets have some load restrictions. When transporting and working with such material, care should be taken as there is a possibility of the sheet cracking.

Kinds

Plasterboard boxes are divided depending on their location, purpose and number of edges. Most often it is built on the ceiling. Ceiling structures are among the most popular and widespread structures, allowing not only to hide significant defects and communications, but also to change the shape of the ceiling, creating multi-level compositions different configurations. The ceiling box is good place location LED strip And spotlights, mounted in the canvas.

A plasterboard box is often mounted on a wall for various purposes. In addition to hiding communications. it can also perform other functions: the surface of the walls can be leveled, small structures serve as shelves or niches, the installation structure can occupy the entire wall or a small part of it. Depending on the location, the boxes are divided into angular and straight. Straight views have three faces - two lateral and one central.

Corner option, unlike wall and ceiling, consists of two planes. Such forms are mounted at the junction of two walls and are used to hide pipes, and are also erected under the hood. The box itself has an L-shaped appearance, and its edges are joined at right angles, having an oblique cut of cutters.

Scope of application

The installation structure is installed in rooms with different purposes. The location depends on the functionality. In the kitchen, a plasterboard box is usually installed for additional lighting working area. Sometimes it is made and then installed to hide a battery consisting of one or more sections. This design is located around the heating radiator and is attached in two ways.

In the first case, the upper plane is screwed to the bottom of the window sill, and the lower plane is attached to the floor surface. When using the second method, instead of the floor, the box is fixed to the wall. In order to warm air circulated correctly, special slots are made in the box.

The box intended for lighting can be mounted with either two sides or 3 sides. The modification depends on the intended installation location and height.

Wall, ceiling and mixed species systems For hoods, as a rule, ceiling boxes are used that have a strong rectangular shape and structures of mixed type, and the walls adjacent to the corner are L-shaped.

In the toilet, a box is often installed to hide sewer pipe sewerage, and in the bathroom - close the water supply system. Due to the special microclimate of these premises, plasterboard sheets must be moisture resistant. And the pipes themselves, around which the structure is built, are often covered with condensation, so the use of moisture-resistant material is an essential necessity.

In the bedroom, living room and others living rooms the box can be used not so much to disguise unsightly interior elements, but rather for practical purposes. A small box in the form of a shelf for a TV, books and other things can significantly transform the interior without a large investment of money and time.

Sometimes a box in a room serves as decorative and at the same time functional element. It is installed to hide the hanging parts of curtains (hooks). Mount this option on ceiling surface along the window opening. In addition, the structure serves as a platform for placing the LED strip.

Where there is lighting, there are wires. For the safety and aesthetic appearance of the room, it is mounted junction box. Installation of a distribution box is necessary to properly organize the switching of wires and cables.

High degree protection from exposure external factors has a junction box, marked by the manufacturers with the letters IP and two numbers indicating the level of protection against dust particles (first number) and humidity (second number).

How to do it?

In order to build a plasterboard box with your own hands, you need to carry out the preparatory work correctly.

These include processes such as:

determining the installation location;
marking;
preparation of material and tools;
the installation itself.

Marking the installation site requires auxiliary means, which include a pencil, tape measure, building level and square ruler. To install the frame, you cannot do without a drill, a screwdriver, a hammer, a hacksaw for metal and a cutter for connecting profiles. Forming a box is impossible without a suitable construction knife and a roughing plane. The materials used are 12.5 mm thick plasterboard sheets and rigid metal profiles.

Having decided on the installation location, you can begin measuring the future box, using the ones prepared for this process tools.

To determine the future dimensions of the box, the location of the object matters. If it is planned to be installed on the ceiling, then this location is considered horizontal. The marks that determine the width of the structure in this case will be located on the ceiling surface, and marks corresponding to its length will be placed on the wall. When the object is positioned vertically, marks corresponding to its length and width are laid on the wall surface, and to determine the volume of the future structure on the floor and ceiling. To determine the boundaries of the box, you need to mark the most protruding parts, and set aside the necessary centimeters from them.

When taking measurements of the future structure, it is worth remembering that the gap between the edges of the box and the object itself must be at least 5 cm. You should also take into account the following external finishing, namely thickness and integrity. If finishing external parties the box is supposed to be tiles, then when marking you need to take into account its width so as not to adjust tile material for an already designed model. After applying the markings, you must accurately connect all the marked points. When outlining the contours of the future box, you must use a square. Correctly constructed lines running from the marks to the object must be in a strictly perpendicular position.

Marking for a vertically located object begins from the ceiling. To ensure the accuracy of the contour, you need to lower the plumb line from the upper corner point, the lower corner point should coincide with the upper mark. After checking the markings, you can begin installing the structure. In order to install the box quickly, and most importantly, correctly, you need to follow certain rules. There are step-by-step instructions on this subject, thanks to which all work is divided into stages.

Installation of the frame is no less important stage than marking. Metal profiles need to be installed along the finished contours. First, we attach the racks to the wall, having previously drilled holes for this process and hammered dowels into them. For stronger fastening, the distance between the holes should be within 50-60 mm. The guide profiles must be secured first to the ceiling surface and then to the floor. Afterwards, you can begin attaching the front pillars coming from the upper guide profiles, using notches or self-tapping screws.

To maintain the structure in a level position, additional profiles should be used - the so-called stiffeners. They must occupy a strictly perpendicular position in relation to the rack profiles, and be located from each other at a distance of no more than 1 meter. The installation of stiffeners is important if the height of the entire structure is more than 1.5 m, and the width of the edges is more than 25 cm. In addition, they are the basis on which plasterboard sheets (gypsum plasterboard) are subsequently attached.

For horizontally located objects, installation of the structure begins with fastening the guide profile (UD) along the entire perimeter. Then the vertical jumpers are screwed on. Having fixed them, you should begin installing the guide profile. The lower part of the box can be assembled on the floor, and only then can this structural element be secured to the upper half. After preparing the frame, they begin to form the box itself. Cut out from prepared plasterboard sheets the right size and the shape of the edge of the future structure. First you need to take measurements of the width and length of the sides and mark these indicators on the sheet. Then you can start connecting the marks. An incision is made along the outlined contours.

In order not to spoil the material, you must follow some rules:

The sheet is cut along the contours using a ruler and stationery knife. The process itself should take place without haste and unnecessary pressure. The edges of the cut are processed with a roughing plane with a slight bevel of 22.5 degrees. When joining the gypsum boards, an angle of 45 degrees is formed, thanks to which the sheets adhere firmly to each other.
After preparing the sheets, you can sew up the frame using 35-45 mm screws for fastening, in increments of 25 mm. For small frame boxes, self-tapping screws are the most acceptable way to fix sheets. If gypsum boards are used to level walls, then polyurethane foam can be used as fastening. The total cost of the foam required for fixation is lower than the cost of used metal profiles In addition, it helps retain heat in the room.

But, it is worth remembering that disassembling the structure without damaging the drywall sheets secured with polyurethane foam It won't work, you'll just have to break it. Therefore, when remodeling, it is easier and more profitable to dismantle sheets screwed with self-tapping screws.

A plasterboard box is, in fact, a simple structure, intended in most cases to hide some decorative elements. But, during installation, you should not forget about the practical repurposing of this structure, as well as some of the nuances of the installation itself.

Installation of the box, starting from marking and ending with fastening the sheets, should be carried out using a building level. Can be used as simple tool in the form of a ruler with a central location of the flask with liquid, and more accurate, modern device like a laser level.

Each stage of work must take place under the control of this device, otherwise the constructed structure may turn out with significant deviations, which will not have a very good effect on its operational characteristics.

For stability and strength of the box great importance has frame size, or rather, its stiffeners. When the length of these frame elements is more than 80 cm, additional fasteners are installed - these are U-shaped holders, with the help of which the structure is supported in a level position.

When installing a box with curved shapes, it is better to use a jigsaw for cutting sheets. Thanks to it, the cuts are quite even, smooth and beautifully outlined. To form round holes under sockets or ceiling lamps It’s better to use special bits that are attached to a drill.

Window for access to pipes

When installing a box for objects such as a sewer pipe or water riser, it is necessary to cut a hole in the sheets, which will facilitate access to the special elements of these objects. In a sewer pipe, these are couplings that have an outlet or hole that is closed with a special lid. The device is designed to clear the blockage, so you cannot block access to it with a sheet.

In addition, at sewer pipe there is a junction where it meets inner tube sewerage with a central riser. In case of an emergency or simple replacement, it should also be accessible. This requirement also applies to water meters, valves, compensators, check valves and gearboxes when covering water pipes.

For an aesthetic appearance of the entire structure, the hole for a special window is cut taking into account the installation of the door. When forming it, it is necessary to take into account the size of the sash frame; as a rule, it is 1-3 mm smaller than the hole. Installation of a window in a frame can be done both before and after installing the sheet on the frame.

Holes in the box are also formed in places where pipes or other sheathed objects exit beyond its boundaries. The cutout should be slightly larger in diameter than the pipe. The resulting gap is filled with materials that weaken the transmission of vibration vibrations from the pipe to the structure.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Today, durable and lightweight drywall is the best finishing material, and the basis for beautiful interpretations in the interior is an ordinary box. Finishing the ceiling, walls and other surfaces, forming interior items and installing structures that transform the room is possible only on the basis of the box.

With the help of a box, the ceiling and walls can be given any shape, even the most unusual shape: install lighting in the right places, form beautiful shelves and niches that give the interior of an apartment or house a special, unique look. Thanks to plasterboard box the disadvantages of the room turn into advantages. The main thing is to correctly position the structure, then ordinary apartment will turn into a beautiful and cozy home.