How to restore old parquet from parquet boards. Restoration of parquet – subject to repair! Partial repair of parquet or parquet boards without sanding

Parquet is one of the most elite floor coverings. Its natural color and intricate design add beauty and sophistication to any room, be it a house or an apartment. In addition to attractiveness, parquet also has such positive properties like strength and durability.

But even on such a coating, due to improper use or care, various defects may appear over time (cracks, depressions, squeaks, loss of shine and darkening of individual areas). The most the right decision It would be better to entrust the repair and subsequent painting of the parquet to professionals, but this will require considerable material costs. Therefore, another option is suitable for many - read our recommendations on how to paint old parquet without scraping and do everything yourself.

Choice of painting methods

There are several options for updating your floor. The first is to simply cover it with paint that matches the color of the interior. The floor will look original if it is painted not in one color, but in several. Various patterns also look beautiful, for example, a checkerboard in black and white and other patterns. But complete painting is not always acceptable due to the fact that the structure of the wood is hidden and the floor is deprived of its zest.

Therefore, most often, to repair the coating, they use special paints, through which the beautiful natural texture of the parquet is visible, or they treat it with varnish. Before varnishing, if desired, you can change the shade of the parquet by pre-treating it with stain.

What tool will you need?

To prepare the coating for restoration and the painting process itself, you will need the following tools:

construction vacuum cleaner;
wide and narrow brushes, paint roller;
spray;
hammer and chisel;
construction hair dryer;
set of spatulas;
a bath or bucket for mixing the varnish composition;
sandpaper of different grain sizes;
protective suit, goggles, gloves and respirator.

It is better to rent a construction vacuum cleaner, since there is no point in purchasing one. If you do everything well, the next time you will need it in decades.

Selection of materials

When choosing paint or varnish, preference should be given to those varieties that are made specifically for the floor, because it is subject to serious regular loads. The color of the paint should be such that the coating is in harmony with the interior of the room. It is advisable to select a shade of varnish that is a shade darker than in the previous coating.

You also need to take into account such an important parameter as the absorbency of wood. For example, pine with its soft structure requires a special type of varnish, while standard parquet flooring is suitable for oak. On the market big choice varnishes, therefore, in order to help you decide, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with them in more detail.

Name	Life time	Compound	Price	Advantages	Flaws
Lucky on water based		Fine suspension of polymer (PVA or other) in water	Inexpensive	They are odorless, dry quickly, penetrate the wood well, and give it strength.	Slightly change the color of the wood, fade from exposure to ultraviolet radiation
Epoxy two-component		Epoxy resin and hardener		Very durable, resistant to moisture, have high level shine	Hardens for a long time, inelastic
Acrylic	50 or more years	Acrylic dispersion, antiseptic and plasticizer		Low toxicity, durable and elastic, fireproof, resistant to mechanical stress	Requires mixing
Alkyd and uralkyd	No more than 10 years	Alkyd resins and natural oils, White Spirit	Inexpensive	Non-toxic, enhance natural beauty wood, wear-resistant and resistant to changes in temperature and humidity	It is necessary to monitor the thickness of the layer; they are sensitive to high temperatures during drying.

In addition, various primers are used to cover parquet. They are also called primer varnishes. They are transparent, through them the structure of the wood is clearly visible and the shine is obtained, like from varnish. But it should be taken into account that each type of primer is suitable for a certain type of varnish, otherwise you may end up with a stained floor that will have to be restored again.

Preparing for painting

Before painting or varnishing the surface of the parquet, you need to remove the old layer of varnish. This work is done using sandpaper of different grain sizes. And it’s better to do this not with your hands, but with your feet, attaching the skins to unnecessary flat shoes. This is of course not only comical, but also very tiring, but the result is worth it. First, take the coarsest-grained skin, and then gradually move on to the finest.

The second option is to remove the old varnish using a hair dryer and a spatula, and then clean it sandpaper. For getting good quality It is advisable to remove the old varnish completely from the floor, and not just in those places where it has peeled off or darkened. You may not know what type of varnish was used last time, and if you apply a different type, an undesirable reaction may occur.

It is not advisable to remove varnish with a solvent, as it may leave stains. As a result, you will have to sand and varnish again. In addition, you will continue to breathe harmful fumes from the solvent for a long time. Therefore, it is always preferable if this work is performed by specialists. They'll take it off upper layer wood grinding machines.

Elimination small cracks, fallen knots and scratches

Before you begin the final stage of work - painting the floor, carefully remove all construction garbage and dust with a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth. Small defects on the parquet are masked using putty (its tone should be as close as possible to the future color of the coating). After grouting cracks and scratches, the floor is dried and then sanded again with fine-grained sandpaper. On next stage Remove the dust again with a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth.

If desired, you can make the putty yourself. Take a piece of parquet tile (the same color and texture as on the coating), cut small sawdust from it and mix it with varnish or paint. The consistency should be close to plasticine. Some craftsmen try to add PVA glue to wood shavings, but we do not recommend doing this, since during sanding it clogs the grains of the nozzle.

To draw joints similar to real ones on the putty areas of the parquet, take a metal ruler and an awl. This should be done at the moment when the putty stops sticking, but is still soft. To draw straight false joints, use an awl to draw along a ruler. And uneven seams are made by lightly pressing the putty with the edge of a ruler. If you need to draw false joints on already set putty, then use with great effort carry out with an awl along a ruler or template made of galvanized metal.

How to varnish parquet

Before you start varnishing the floor, do the following preliminary work:

make sure the parquet is even and clean (its final quality will depend on this);
protect the bottom of the wall (so that the varnish does not get on the wallpaper);
wear special clothing and respiratory protection;
open windows and doors to ensure the room is well ventilated (some varnishes are very toxic).

First, it is advisable to apply a primer, and after it has completely dried, you can begin the process of coating the parquet with varnish. In some cases, experts do not recommend using a primer mixture. Some people are interested in whether it is possible to paint parquet flooring with a brush. Yes, but this process will take a long time. It is better to take a high-quality roller with an extended handle for this. During the work period, make sure that there are no drops. If suddenly they form, remove them with a dry cloth, otherwise there will be dark spots in this place.

Usually parquet is varnished several times. The time interval between applying each subsequent layer should be exactly as indicated in the instructions included with the selected type of varnish. During drying, keep the room closed so that dust does not fly in from the street and stick to the varnish. It will be possible to fully use the coating only after 14 days.

The most common problems when varnishing parquet floors

To ensure that you don’t find any unpleasant defects after completing the work, we will look at the most common ones:

The varnish takes a very long time to dry. Most likely, when mixing the components, the technology written in the instructions was violated (for example, not enough hardener was added). The polymerization period can take up to a month. Blow-drying will not help, but rather harm.
Whitish stripes. This happens in cases where a dirty tool was used when painting. It is impossible to eliminate this defect.
Multicolored parquet. There was probably a strong draft in the room when drying, and the surface dried unevenly. Sometimes even air bubbles form under the varnish layer.
The color of the parquet turned out darker than you expected. Varnish is a chemical substance and it always “burns” the wood a little, so it becomes darker by 1 or even 3 tones.
Peeling or swelling of the varnish layer. This happens when primer and varnish of different compositions were used. The only option to correct the situation is to remove the varnish completely and re-coat the floor.

If all operations were carried out correctly, the parquet surface will acquire the required strength and shine. You can safely place furniture and other household items on such a covering. Now you know how and with what to paint parquet without sanding.

Cases in which specialists are indispensable

There are situations in which the help of professional repairmen is needed. For example, these:

the parquet is very worn out, and there are many cracks and various defects on it;
the coating swollen from excess moisture, and some elements fell out;
parquet boards are loose, dark, covered with mold and are easily pierced with an awl;
The varnish sticks so tightly that it cannot be properly removed by hand.

In all these cases, you cannot do without the help of professionals. They will re-lay the parquet completely or, if necessary, replace its damaged parts and sand the surface of the parquet, and then cover it with varnish. If you are faced with serious damage to your parquet, our website has all the necessary contacts to call the experts. Specialists will promptly come to you in any district of St. Petersburg and the region.

Parquet is probably the most “elite” flooring option. It brings beauty and sophistication to any room, and at the same time it is quite strong and durable. Although, over time, parquet still loses some of its attractiveness. This happens in most cases due to improper or untimely maintenance, but mechanical damage to the parquet or defects resulting from exposure to adverse weather conditions cannot be ruled out. external factors(for example, water). Of course, parquet that has lost its attractiveness can be replaced, but since “pleasure is not cheap,” many prefer to restore the old floor covering. The most “radical” way to restore parquet is to sand it, followed by treatment with mastics and varnishes. But often the damage to the parquet is not so significant as to require resorting to such “radical measures.” In these cases, you can restore the beauty of parquet using several quite accessible methods.

But before we get to know them, let's look at " complex cases", in which independent restoration of parquet is not possible.

“Complicated cases” of parquet repair

There are several situations in which it makes no sense to undertake parquet restoration yourself - you will only waste time and effort. Here are the most common ones:

The parquet is very worn and has numerous defects and cracks. In this case complete replacement It may not be necessary, but you certainly can’t do without scraping;
The parquet “swollen” after being heavily flooded with water. Since in this case some planks have probably come off the base, it will be necessary to re-lay the parquet (and possibly replace some elements), after which, again, resort to the scraping procedure;
Over time, the parquet board has become dark and loose (it can be easily pierced with an awl). This is perhaps the most “sad” option, since in this case even sanding will not help the matter - a complete replacement of the parquet is necessary.

Sometimes a complete replacement of parquet is necessary

In other cases, it is quite possible to restore the parquet yourself; you just need to be patient and familiarize yourself with the basic restoration technologies.

Restoring the appearance of parquet

This kind restoration work can be divided into several stages:

Grinding. Depending on the general condition parquet will need to be partially or completely sanded. This can be done either using a grinding machine or in “manual” mode.

If you decide to use grinding machine, it is better to use fine sandpaper, since coarse abrasive can leave deep grooves on the surface of the parquet.

When using a sander, try not to “tilt” it on its side. The edge of sandpaper (even the smallest section) can leave a very noticeable scratch, which will be quite difficult to get rid of.

If you don’t have a sanding machine at hand, it’s quite possible to sand the parquet with your bare hands, or, to be more precise, with your feet. To do this you will need a pair of "junk shoes" and 40 and 80 grit sandpaper.

Using glue, we glue “coarser” paper onto one sole, and “fine” paper onto the second, after which, putting on the shoes, we simply shuffle our feet in those places that need to be sanded. Of course, this task is a little tedious and very comical, but believe me, it is much easier than manual sanding.

In cases where “deep” sanding is necessary, we recommend that you first use only 40-grit sandpaper, and after removing all the dirt and old varnish, “walk” over the cleaned surface with a fine “eight-grit.”

Putty for scratches and chips. Defects and scratches formed in the parquet boards are removed using cosmetic parquet putty. This is done using a regular spatula. Today you can buy quite a lot of shades of this material, however, if you could not find cosmetic putty (also called restoration paste) of the shade you need, you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to mix sawdust with epoxy varnish in a ratio of 1 to 4 and add to the resulting mixture required amount dye. After the putty has dried, it is treated with fine sandpaper.

Defects and scratches can be removed using cosmetic parquet putty

In some cases, you can get rid of minor scratches by using a wax “repair kit” for parquet.

Video about puttying parquet

You can learn more about the parquet putty technology in the following video:

Imitation of joints. After puttingtying the parquet, it may be necessary to create imitation joints in some places. This can be done using an ordinary awl and a metal ruler. To do this, after the putty has partially dried (it should not stretch or “take”), just apply light pressure with the end of a metal ruler at the joint. The end “false joints” are made using an awl, which is used to draw a small line along the same ruler.
Varnishing of parquet. The final stage of parquet restoration work is coating it with varnish. To do this, you can use almost any varnish - alkyd, epoxy, acrylic, as well as water-based varnishes. Detailed instructions How to work with each type of varnish can be found in the instructions supplied with it.

The final stage of parquet restoration work is coating it with varnish.

Please note that to create a smooth “mirror” surface of the parquet, it must be varnished with at least 2-3 layers.

After the varnish has completely dried, all that remains is to rub the parquet with mastic and restoration work can be considered completed.

In addition to the loss of visual appeal, other “troubles” can happen to parquet, the most common of which is creaking and loosening of individual boards. Let's figure out how to get out of these unpleasant situations.

Repairing loose boards

You can secure individual parquet boards using small nails driven into the end of each board at an angle of 45 degrees. This process is shown in more detail in the figure.

Scheme for fastening individual parquet boards using small nails

In order to drive the nail completely into the end parquet board, you need to use a rod - a “doboychik”. The most ordinary nail can play this role. big size. The “doboychik” head is placed on the head of the nail being driven in and hit with a hammer on its opposite side.

If it is not individual boards that are loose, but entire “pockets” of parquet, then you can use bamboo inserts to secure them. The fact is that bamboo has a structure different from wood, due to which it swells significantly more than any type of wood when exposed to moisture. To fix a group of parquet boards, it is enough to drill a number of holes around the perimeter of the “hearth” and drive bamboo “blocks” into them. Excess bamboo is cut off with an ordinary knife. After about a week, after the bamboo has swollen, the repaired piece of parquet can be puttied and varnished.

Parquet floor creaking

Creak is one of the most common problems old parquet. Unfortunately, in many cases, it is possible to completely get rid of it only by completely replacing the coating in compliance with all necessary technologies. However, in some situations, you can eliminate the squeak yourself, and without any special financial costs. To do this, you need to try to “wedge” the parquet along its perimeter.

Before carrying out wedging work, it is recommended to check the humidity in the room. If it is above 40%, then the probability of a successful result after the work is extremely low.

To prevent the parquet from creaking, it is necessary to “wedge” it around the perimeter

The first step is to remove the baseboards and remove the old wedges, which most likely no longer fulfill their function. In their place we drive new wedges, at a distance of about half a meter from each other. For a week, we “knock out” the wedges every day and check the floor for squeaks. If the creaking does not disappear within a week, then, alas, this method cannot be eliminated.

As you can see, it is quite possible to carry out minor parquet repairs yourself, without turning to specialists for help. But if your hardwood floors aren't in need of repair yet, remember that the best way to keep them looking attractive is appearance on long years is timely and proper care.

Good luck with your renovation!

It is quite possible to renew parquet flooring without resorting to expensive sanding in 1 day with your own hands, especially if the wear of the floor is insignificant. But defects are not eliminated in one day. In addition, you will need to spend money on materials and tools.

Materials for parquet renovation

The most important material for renewing parquet is varnish. Its layer is applied to give the parquet a well-groomed appearance, as well as to protect it from negative factors: water, debris, dust, etc. Varnish must be used when replacing planks to make the color of the coating uniform.

You need to choose one type of varnish out of four:

Alkyd. Inexpensive varnish without toxic substances, dries quickly on parquet, the coating lasts an average of 10 years.
Epoxy. Composition with a guaranteed service life of 30 to 40 years. It is toxic when applied; you need to wear a respirator. You can use the room 8-10 days after treatment.
Acrylic. The coating lasts for more than 50 years, the level of toxicity when treating the floor is low. It is characterized by high cost.
Water based. These non-toxic varnishes contain a mixture of water and polymer. Service life is several decades. Some varnishes of this type have tinting properties.

The choice of varnish is made according to budget and required service life.

You will also need putty. It can be purchased in the form ready mixture at any hardware store. Such compositions come in white or in various shades. You can prepare putty with your own hands. This option is suitable for those who need to restore a small area of the floor, and the ready-made putty in the jar is too much for them.

To make putty, take small sawdust and mix with parquet varnish until a thick mass is obtained. Ideally, it will be sawdust from the same type of wood as the wood of your parquet.

The tools you will need are an awl, a metal ruler, a wax pencil, and a hair dryer.

Removing scuffs and scratches

You can get rid of small scratches using sandpaper. Thanks to it, a layer of old varnish and a small layer of wood are removed. You need to rub the parquet carefully but firmly, making sure that the same amount of material is removed from the tiles. Otherwise, unevenness will be noticeable. You can use a hand cycle. This is a compact tool that is great for small areas. You can work with it in small rooms, narrow corridors, tight corners.

If during the treatment of the floor there are still traces of scratches on the parquet, leave them. You will then apply putty on them and they will close.

After applying and drying the putty, go over the parquet again with sandpaper to smooth the surface. After this, you need to create the illusion of joints, as if no manipulations were made on the parquet.

For very small scratches, putty is not needed, just enough wax pencil. It, like putty, comes in different shades. When purchasing, you need to carefully select the color so that the treatment areas do not catch your eye. If the color of the pencil and the parquet differ greatly, then stains may be visible even after varnishing.

Sealing gaps between planks

This process is one of the most difficult in parquet repair. on our own. First, the diverged strips need to be warmed up construction hairdryer until a specific smell of mastic appears. Next, pull the planks away from each other (so that between them there is a small gap, into which you can then insert a piece of wood). Then seal the seams with putty.

After this, you need to walk over the treated surface with sandpaper, then with varnish. If the parquet is laid in a herringbone pattern, large cracks will have to be grouted separately. For cracks no larger than 5 mm, you can try to treat them in the same way as when eliminating scratches and chips.

Creating a seam effect

After puttingtying the parquet, you need to do visible joints tiles Wait until the putty dries slightly and stops sticking, but is still soft. Using an awl and straight edge, draw lines where the tiles meet each other.

If the parquet creaks

Old floors usually creak. Sometimes the cause of squeaking is improper installation. Pulling the tiles from the edges to the middle of the room (shrinking) will help correct the situation. This procedure can only be performed at low air humidity in the room (up to 40%). At a humidity of 50-60%, cutting is possible, but it must be done with great care. Humidity over 60% makes it impossible.

The stages of cutting the planks are as follows:

Remove the baseboard. It will not be required until the final stage.
Check how the spacer wedges are positioned. If there is foam in the gap instead, remove it.
Install the new wedges firmly and securely.
Add new wedges every day and see if there is any sound when walking.

If the old floors continue to squeak after a week, you will have to replace them.

Color change

If desired, you can give the parquet new color. To do this, it is enough to paint the parquet without sanding the pine boards. You can easily purchase varnishes and paints of any shade in the store, designed specifically for parquet. Fill cracks and scratches with sandpaper and putty, then apply a coloring compound.

When can you not do without scraping?

If the parquet is badly damaged, do without a specialist and professional equipment will not work. Examples of such damage:

pronounced dents from active use or heavy furniture;
wavy cracks of planks;
swelling and swelling of wood from water;
change in structure and color;
mold and rot.

In these situations, drying, reassembly, replacement of individual planks, and treatment with special compounds are required. It is necessary to do looping in these cases.

Why trust the renewal of old parquet better for specialists?

You can restore the parquet yourself. But most property owners prefer to involve specialists, which allows them to get the following advantages:

Saving personal time and effort. There is no need to do everything yourself, the master will do the job quickly. The freed time can be devoted to loved ones.
Saving money. When you restore a floor yourself without experience, mistakes are possible. To correct them, you need to purchase materials again, and sometimes pay for the work of other people.
Optimal choice materials. The master will calculate exactly how much varnish, paint, and putty is needed. You won't have to buy anything extra. Company representatives can buy and bring everything they need themselves. There is no need to buy tools: the master has everything.
Guarantee. Our craftsmen provide a guarantee on the results of their work and materials.

Parquet is a cozy and environmentally friendly floor covering. With proper care it will last for many decades. Ordinary household incidents most often do not lead to permanent damage to the parquet floor, and repairing parquet with your own hands in most cases does not require significant costs or any special skills. To prepare for small and cosmetic repairs If you have a parquet floor, it is enough to remove the furniture from the room and do a wet cleaning. In this article we will look at how to update parquet flooring without sanding over the entire floor area. Complete scraping with revarnishing is an expensive and labor-intensive operation. .

Severe cases

In three cases, restoring parquet yourself will require significant costs Money, time and labor:

Heavily worn, unkempt and trampled parquet with visible hollows and wavy cracks in the tiles. In this case, most often you can do without replacing the parquet flooring, but it is best to entrust the restoration of the parquet to professionals: it will cost less.
The floor is swollen after heavy flooding over the entire area; the dies (parquet flooring) have come off the base. This floor needs to be re-laid. After drying in a stack, old parquet flooring can be used, but the whole complex of sanding and varnishing work is also necessary.
The dies are darkened, the wood is loose, and when pressed lightly, the awl goes 5 mm or more into the wood. The parquet floors are rotten and moldy. Required with drying the room and preparing the base floor.

In other cases, restoring parquet with your own hands is quite possible. If parquet work is timed to coincide with the renovation of the premises, it is carried out last. Let us first consider what materials and technological operations are required for this.

Varnish, putty and paste

Parquet varnish is needed both to create protective coating, and for matching replacement parquet flooring to match the existing one. Parquet varnishes are available in four types:

Alkyd and uralkyd. Inexpensive, non-toxic, dry quickly: work can be continued and the room can be occupied an hour after application. But the durability of the coating does not exceed 10 years, after which complete sanding and revarnishing is required. Uralkyd varnish is slightly more expensive and durable than alkyd. It is recommended to use it around the perimeter of the room and for temporary covering for several years before renovation.
Epoxy varnishes. With proper care, they provide parquet durability of 30-40 years, but are expensive. During curing, highly toxic volatile substances are released, so you need to work in a respirator, rubber gloves and safety glasses, opening the windows wide and closing the door tightly. Work can continue and the room can be occupied a week after varnishing: the seemingly completely hardened varnish takes a long time to gain strength.
Acrylic varnishes just like epoxy, they require mixing before using the base and hardener. Low toxicity, but very expensive. Durability of coating at proper care– up to 50 years or more.
Water based varnish in essence, not a varnish, but a finely dispersed suspension of a polymer (PVA or other) in water. Non-toxic, cheap, the coating “ripens” within a day. Penetrates into the mass of wood, which gives it strength for decades; The exact period depends on the quality of the wood. Allows rubbing with mastic. Parquet varnished with water-based varnish is not so sensitive to grains of sand. Disadvantages: it fades greatly under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and somewhat changes the tone of the wood.

Work operations

For minor repairs For parquet flooring, you need to master four simple technological techniques: preparing tinted putty, simulating joints, hand scraping and foot sanding.

Cosmetic putty

You can completely dispense with preparing homemade cosmetic putty: there are a variety of restoration pastes for parquet, Bona, and others in various shades on sale. But if you have several old parquet floors lying around in your closet, the same ones that are laid on the floor, you can prepare a grout for potholes and seams that is ideal for the floor. To do this, you need to cut more sawdust with any suitable tool and mix it with parquet varnish to the consistency of sour cream. IN epoxy varnish you can add sawdust filler in a ratio of up to 4:1; it will look like plasticine.

But it makes sense to prepare putty yourself only in the case described above: to obtain an exactly matching tone, not only the species matters, but also the period of aging of the wood. If there are no exactly the same samples of wood, it is easier to buy ready-made putty or paste of a suitable shade.

Video: parquet putty

Imitation of joints

Imitation of the joints of dies on the puttied surface of the parquet is done with an ordinary awl and a metal bench ruler:

Wait for the putty to gelatinize, i.e. it should no longer “take on”, but still be soft. For alkyd and uralkyd varnishes, gelatinization occurs within a few minutes after application and lasts about a minute, so you need to work quickly.
Straight false joints are drawn with an awl along a ruler.
Curved false joints are made with the edge of a ruler with slight pressure.
False joints on hardened putty, when necessary, are scratched with an awl along a ruler or galvanized template.

Manual scraping

Small sections of parquet to be repaired are scraped manually using a hand scraper. Ready-made cycles are sold in tool stores. You can make a cycle yourself from a piece of iron for a plane by releasing its blade, bending it with a hook and hardening it again. (More information about manual and machine scraping with your own hands -).

Sanding with feet

For sanding sections of parquet, it is convenient to use old shoes with flat soles: sneakers, “bazaar” Chinese summer shoes, etc. Apply sandpaper number 40 (coarser) to one sole with 88 glue; on the other - number 80 (thinner), for primary and final grinding. Shuffling your feet is also somewhat tiring, but rubbing your hands while kneeling or bending over is much more difficult. And sandpaper on an elastic sole works more accurately than on a sanding block.

Parquet repair

Chewing gum and plasticine

Do not wash or remove with solvent: it will leave a stain on the parquet. You need to prepare a plastic bag (not plastic) with ice cubes and place it on the dirt. After 10-20 minutes. it will rise with the package or will be knocked off without leaving a trace.

Scratches, chips, gouges, corners of dies

For elimination minor defects Without removing the furniture, first scrape and then sand off the old varnish to bare wood and seal the defect with cosmetic putty using a cardboard stencil. After hardening, the putty is sanded down until smooth and immediately, until the putty has gained strength, the false joints are scratched. Then they are varnished, choosing a varnish to match. At least two layers of varnish are applied, the next one after the previous one has completely dried.

You can try to remove single scratches and chips using commonly sold repair kits, in particular with wax pencils

Cleavage

Gaps often form in old parquet flooring. This is the result of natural drying of the wood, and such a floor is most likely still quite suitable for use. Narrow single cracks are sealed with putty in the same way as scratches with potholes: peeling, putty, false joint, varnishing.

Sealing multiple cracks wider than 5 mm is somewhat more difficult:

A row of parallel parquet floors (if the installation is not herringbone) is heated for 10-20 minutes with a household hairdryer. A sure sign that it has warmed up enough is the appearance of the smell of mastic or base putty.
Using a laminate hook and a rubber hammer, pull the dies towards each other so that one wide gap remains.
A wooden stave is tightly placed in the gap on the putty, flush with the parquet dies.
After the putty has hardened, the area to be repaired is peeled off, puttyed, false joints are made, sanded and varnished.
On parquet laid in a herringbone pattern, wide cracks are sealed individually, using wood chips instead of rivets.

The parquet floors are wobbly

Fastening parquet with nails

If individual dies are loosened randomly, they are attached to adjacent ones with small nails at an angle of 45 degrees. Nails are driven in along the long sides of the dies, 15-20 mm from the corners. The heads of the nails are driven into the wood with a hammer and a metal spacer rod (pounder). The holes with caps are puttied, without peeling. After the putty has hardened, go over it once with sandpaper and varnish with a drop of varnish.

If the dies “play” with whole hearths, then they are secured with bamboo. Bamboo is not a tree, but a large, hard grass. The cut shows that its fibers are located completely differently from those of wood. Having picked up a little moisture from the air, bamboo swells a little more than wood.

The cutting of playing parquet with bamboo is done as follows:

On the long sides, 15-20 mm from the corners at the joints, vertical holes with a diameter of 4-6 mm are drilled.
Round bamboo blocks are driven tightly, even tightly, into the holes; the protruding residue is cut off with a sharply sharpened chisel.
A week later, the repaired area of the cycles is peeled off, the cracks are puttied, false joints are made, sanded and varnished.

Creak

Almost the most frequently asked question for repairing parquet floors - what to do if the parquet creaks? Parquet creaking is a consequence of the natural aging of the floor or a violation of its laying technology. Old Soviet parquet laid on bitumen mastic, most often can be corrected for several years before repair; “shabby” floors – in some cases. First of all, you need to try to pull the parquet away from the edges:

We check the air humidity in the room with a hygrometer. It should not exceed 60%. If the humidity is higher, floor cutting will not work. The optimal value is 40%. This humidity is typical for winter with the heating on.
We remove the baseboards and check the spacer wedges; Most likely, they are no longer bursting with anything, but are simply lying in the crack.
If there are no wedges at all, and the gap is filled with foam, use a chisel to remove the foam until the groove is clean.
We install new pairs of wedges every 0.5-0.6 m and tap them tightly.
Every day we knock out wedges and check the floor for squeaks. If within a week the creaking has not diminished, and the wedges sit as tightly as at the beginning - alas, the parquet has served its purpose, and you need to think about how to re-lay it. Alternative option for two to five years before renovation - cover the floor with plywood on a soft waterproofing film or, if the old parquet is definitely not needed, on thick mineral paint: white, red lead.

Video: eliminating squeaky floors yourself

Blistering

It is only possible to fix parquet that has swollen after soaking on your own only in some cases, and if the spill was not on the entire floor. In this case, you can try the following:

Warm the swollen area thoroughly, for an hour and a half or more, with short breaks, with a household hairdryer. The smell of mastic is a sign that the repair will most likely be successful.
Quickly, before the floor cools down, cover it thick fabric like burlap and give a weight distributed over the area of at least 10 kg/sq.dm. For this, weights or other weights are suitable (a basin or boiling water, stacks of books or bricks, etc.) on a piece of magpie board or a piece of thick plywood, fiberboard, etc. The author of these lines observed a case when they worked perfectly as a weight three tube color TVs - “coffins”.
Keep under load for at least 24 hours; check if the swelling has fallen off. If the “bubble” has decreased significantly, repeat the operation.

If the swelling has not noticeably fallen off, alas, the floor is damaged and needs to be re-laid.

In serious cases like the one shown in the image optimal solution There will be a complete replacement of damaged items.

Note: If you decide to start working a week or more after the swelling occurs, you don’t have to try. Fungal spores have already awakened in the solid wood.

A little trick for all cases of floor repair: Before starting work, parquet made of straight-layer wood (oak, walnut) should be slightly moistened by covering it with a slightly dampened and tightly wrung-out rag until it dries. Fine-layer parquet (beech, birch, rowan) and tropical wood species, on the contrary, need to be dried as best as possible.

Parquet care

How The best way treatment of diseases is their prevention, and the best way to repair a parquet floor is proper and timely care of the parquet. Parquet has three main enemies: excessive/insufficient humidity, sand and ultraviolet radiation. Due to “wrong” humidity, wood shrinks or swells and is more easily affected by fungus. Sand scratches the varnish and spoils the top, decorative layer of the wood, and ultraviolet radiation causes the wood to darken and take on a sloppy appearance. That's why:

During the day, illuminate the room with diffused light. Previously, tulle curtains were recommended for this; Now there is a better way: vertical blinds. But not horizontal, they can, on the contrary, concentrate ultraviolet radiation and direct it to the parquet!
Enter a room with parquet floors only in slippers. Place a cloth mat in front of the door - it retains grains of sand, and from the carpet pile they then fall onto the floor.
Before front door Place a plastic mat in the apartment - a shoe cleaner.
In winter, when the humidity in the apartment with the heating on can drop to 20%, humidify the air, at least by hanging tin troughs of water from the radiators.
In summer, ventilate the room more often; windows and balcony door hang it with a net. It not only keeps mosquitoes out, but also catches large fractions of street dust that are most harmful to parquet.
Vacuum the parquet floor more often, but under no circumstances use a vacuum cleaner! Wet cleaning is only done by hand.
Do wet cleaning no more than once a week, using a slightly damp and well-wrung out cloth. Best option– a special microfiber cloth.

Video: expert opinion on parquet care

Just in case: The parquet that lasts for three generations is not varnished. Such parquet is regularly, especially valuable - every day, rubbed with mastic based on oil and beeswax. The mastic strengthens the entire top layer of parquet several millimeters deep. The work of rubbing is labor-intensive, but nowadays it is made easier by water parquet varnish. It is enough to polish the parquet varnished with it once a week.

Parquet cleaning

Cleaning parquet is a special matter. Parquet must be cleaned with special cleaning agents that are chemically neutral and do not contain abrasives. They are based on nonionic surfactants (surfactants) with a neutral acid-base reaction.

Well maintained parquet flooring is one of the most stylish interior details in the room, which also has numerous advantages, thanks to operational properties, which are inherent in all natural materials.

Having a number of advantages, a floor covered with parquet also has several disadvantages, the main one of which is excessive abrasion of its surface, as a result of which it may be necessary to update the parquet board, which will help restore the appearance of the floor covering. This work is carried out using three various methods depending on the condition of the parquet floor planks, which are quite easy to do with your own hands.

There is no need to be afraid that parquet will lose its original appearance over time; it can always be restored

The most common problems with wooden flooring are the formation of various scratches and abrasion marks on its surface, left by a large number of people and furniture legs, as a result of which its appearance noticeably deteriorates. You can renew parquet without sanding using a regular sanding machine; to do this, it is enough to carry out the following work:

First of all, the room is cleared of all furniture and wet cleaning parquet, after which it must be allowed to dry for several hours.
Next on grinder put on coarse-grained sandpaper and begin to remove the top paint layer from the surface of the floor covering, gradually moving to finer-grained sandpaper. Thus, the parquet is sanded until the layers of varnish, on which there were various scratches, are completely removed.
After sanding, the parquet must be thoroughly cleaned, collecting all the dust and carefully inspecting for deep damage to the surface; if there are none, the floor is washed clean and left for several hours until it is completely dry.
The last stage is application to the parquet protective layers paint coating and sealant, the main purpose of which is to prevent contact with wooden floor various moisture. First of all, all the seams between the parquet planks are filled with sealant. Next, the floor begins to be varnished in several layers, allowing each of them to dry completely, after which the room with the parquet floor can be used.

This procedure for updating the surface of a parquet board can be carried out without the help of a sanding machine; for this you will have to use old shoes with smooth, non-ribbed soles, to which sandpaper is glued and you begin to work with your feet in the form of a floor polisher.

One of the sanding machine models, easy to learn and use

Renewing parquet boards that have deep damage

An old parquet floor is susceptible to deep scratches and chips on its surface, which occur due to drying out. wooden structure its planks, and the excessive pressure exerted on them by heavy furniture. For this reason, many people are wondering how to update old parquet flooring, spending a small amount of time and a minimal amount of money.

Parquet boards with large scratches and chips are restored using a special putty, which is made in large assortment modern manufacturers paint and varnish materials intended for interior decoration. This putty is available in various color scheme, under any types of wooden textures, which makes it possible, after its application, not to subject the floor covering to additional treatment with paint or tinting varnishes.

Such a mark may remain from the impact of a heel or a metal chair leg.

The process of restoring a heavily worn parquet board that has severe damage to its surface looks like this:

Damaged boards are processed with a sanding machine, thereby cleaning their surface from the applied protective layers of varnish.
Next, putty is applied to the damaged area, after which it is given time to completely harden, which is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
At the next stage, the areas of the parquet floor treated with putty are sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, either put on a sanding machine, or using wooden block square section.
The last stage is the application of a protective varnish to the parquet floor boards, with which it is necessary to treat the floor covering in several layers, giving each of them time until it completely hardens, after which the room can be used again.

And such a dent can form if, for example, a hammer is dropped on the parquet

How to restore loose parquet boards with severe chips

One of the most popular options for restoring the surface of a loose parquet board with significant chips is to use a mixture of sawdust and epoxy glue, which is diluted in a ratio of 1 to 4. Before applying the mixture prepared in this way, the parquet floor must be thoroughly cleaned of previously applied paint coatings, and then rinse well.

An epoxy mixture with sawdust is applied to the damaged areas of the parquet board and carefully leveled with a regular spatula, and everything is left for several hours until completely dry. Next, the surface of the treated parquet is sanded, cleaned of dust, and covered with a layer of varnish, after which hardens, the floor takes on the appearance of a new one.

Even such a serious chip can be fixed without replacing the parquet board