Do-it-yourself frame bathhouse with a bathroom. Do-it-yourself frame bathhouse - projects, drawings and step-by-step construction instructions

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Everyone knows about the benefits of a bathhouse, so there is rarely a summer cottage whose owners have not installed and do not intend to install a bathhouse. The practice of constructing such structures spans hundreds of years. Therefore, for most people, a do-it-yourself bath is not a fantasy, but a simple everyday occurrence. Those wishing to devote time to frame construction can find below step-by-step instructions on how to make a bathhouse yourself. The submitted photos, videos, and drawings will help in the work.

Bathhouse project

To meet the cost of 350 thousand rubles, you can build a 4x4 m frame bathhouse, adding a 4x1.8 m veranda to the main structure. In this case, you can equip a 2.1x1.6 m steam room, a 3.8x2.1 m relaxation room, and a shower room - 1.6x1.6 m.

Construction of the foundation

The depth of laying the foundation is determined by the level of freezing of the soil in the area, in this case it is 60 cm. To determine its parameters, you need to look into the design of the bathhouse. If not project documentation, prepared by specialists, the type of foundation is determined depending on the material of the walls.

If you decide to install a frame bathhouse, it will be enough to make a small strip foundation. To arrange it, a square formwork made of 2 parallel boards is installed on a prepared, flat surface. They are fastened with self-tapping screws; additionally, cross members are used to subsequently lay the block.

You also need to take care of the ventilation of the foundation and make appropriate bookmarks. In order not to make a mistake with the size and direction of the trench under the foundation, it is more advisable to first make the formwork, and then dig a trench in the space between the boards. It is better to immediately pour the excavated soil into buckets and take it away from the site to prevent contamination.

The formwork is installed around the perimeter and under internal partitions, as well as where the stove will be installed. This way the load will be distributed more evenly. It is also advisable to carry out reinforcement. The trenches are first filled with sand to reduce the load on the base, and then concrete mortar.

When it hardens, all that remains is to unscrew the screws and disassemble the formwork. Usually after 5-7 days the concrete gains strength. In dry and hot conditions, it is recommended to water the foundation.

Arrangement of the bath floor

First you need to roll out roll waterproofing between the foundation elements and along the foundation itself. This may be ordinary roofing felt. It is also used for waterproofing in foundation recesses intended for logs that will become the base of the floor.

To prevent the logs from bending during operation, they are additionally reinforced with intermediate supports. The upper part of the foundation is also waterproofed. Next, it remains to lay the floor board, starting from the edge of the foundation. It must be treated with an antiseptic.

Frame making

Next stage of construction frame bath with your own hands - making the frame itself. 4 separate wall blocks are made from edged boards, leaving holes for windows and doors. The workpiece must be collected on the ground, on a completely flat area.

When the blanks are ready for installation, they are installed vertically and fastened in pairs with self-tapping screws. It is very important to maintain the correct connection angle and monitor the level. Externally, frame racks look like hollow structures made of vertical and horizontal elements. After installation, you need to check the evenness again, and only then begin to build the roofing system.

Roof arrangement

The next stage of the step-by-step instructions is the construction of the roof of a frame bathhouse.

Its installation begins with the installation of logs on the 2nd floor. Next, a layer of flooring boards is placed on the resulting beams. Then mounted rafter system. We must not forget that the chimney has to be removed, so appropriate space must be left in the rafter system. Next, waterproofing is installed, a counter-lattice and sheathing are made. In progress.

The space under the gable roof can be actively used for storing brooms and other useful things.

Bathroom wall cladding

The voids in the bathhouse frame are filled with thermal insulation material. You can use mats and rolls. But the mats are much more convenient; they are simply inserted into the existing voids of the frame. The rolled material will need to be cut in accordance with the dimensions of the intermediate elements of the frame rack.

When arranging walls, do not forget about vapor barrier and waterproofing. When the film is fixed, they begin to decorate the bathhouse at the dacha with a blockhouse.

Interior decoration

The inside of the bathhouse is lined with another layer of thermal insulation, as well as a vapor barrier. The joints must be taped with adhesive tape. On top of this, the walls are lined with clapboard.

When decorating the walls of a steam room, you will need to make 3 layers:

• mineral wool;
• foil;
• lining.

Constructing a frame bathhouse with your own hands is a completely feasible task. It still needs to be properly insulated and insulated from moisture penetration. It is easier and faster to erect a frame structure than a similar structure made of logs or bricks.

Any home craftsman will be able to cope with such work, since he will not need to order drawings, will not need to equip a serious foundation and will not need to purchase expensive building materials.

The frame bathhouse in the photo has a significant advantage - the structure is light in weight, which means it will not shrink during operation. Among the disadvantages, it should be noted that during precipitation, moisture penetrates through the cracks of the frame and then accumulates inside it. This problem should be solved in advance.

Designing a future bath

A frame bath project can be the construction of either a small building consisting of a steam room and a dressing room, or a two-story building on suburban area. The choice depends on the wishes and financial capabilities of the owner. You can also make a panel bathhouse with your own hands, but without certain skills it will be difficult.

When building a modest-sized frame bathhouse with your own hands, a simple strip or column foundation will be sufficient. You will need to purchase dry timber with a cross-section of at least 20x20 millimeters and an edged board. If the future bathhouse must have at least three rooms, then a more serious foundation will be required.

To save materials, it can be arranged as a dressing room attached veranda and then inside the small bath building there will be enough space for a washing room and steam room.

When building two-story frame baths, you need to remember that they are the most fire hazardous and in the event of a fire, the fire will spread very quickly, and getting down from the top floor will become problematic.

Creating a wooden base

Self-construction of a small frame bathhouse, as a rule, does not require the construction of a foundation due to its lightness. But to prevent the walls from becoming damp, you need to make a foundation.

In the case where you plan to build a bathhouse no larger than 3x4 meters in size, and the walls and roof are light, then it is enough to create a simple wooden foundation, which is secured along the edges with stakes. Such a foundation is considered a particularly good solution when carrying out construction on clayey, seasonally mobile soils that do not have excessive levels of moisture.

Construction of a columnar foundation

This type of base for a frame bath is made in the presence of highly located groundwater. They construct a columnar version of the foundation without the involvement of special equipment and a team of workers (more details: " "). You need to have a drill, plastic or asbestos pipes at your disposal and be able to mix cement mortar.

If you are building a frame bathhouse with your own hands - step-by-step instruction arrangement of a columnar foundation looks like this:

1. Level the land.
2. Mark the locations for installing the pillars.
3. Holes are drilled and waterproofing is placed at the bottom.
4. Gradually pour the concrete solution and raise the pipe, which is fixed at the 20-30 centimeter mark. When the concrete hardens, it is reinforced.
5. If the base is ready, the pipe is filled with solution to the end.
6. Using a strong beam, a grillage is formed.

Block base for a bath

Do-it-yourself frame bath projects, if it has a large area and it is planned to install a heavy stove in it, require the creation of a reliable, strong foundation from reinforced concrete blocks. But it is allowed to equip such a foundation on soil with a freezing depth of no more than a meter.

Pile-screw option

Sequencing:

1. Designate the location for installation of the piles.
2. They drill holes of the required size, based on the characteristics of the soil.
3. The piles are screwed into the soil gradually.
4. Assemble and secure the harness.

Strip foundation

Such a foundation is installed when personal plot heaving soil.

The work on its construction is carried out step by step:

1. Markings are made on the site and a trench is dug, the width of which is 40 centimeters and the depth is approximately 50 centimeters.
2. The hole is filled with sand layer by layer until the ground level is reached, compacted each time and watered with water to ensure compact shrinkage.
3. They construct formwork 50 centimeters high and 30 centimeters wide. For greater strength, it is reinforced using rods and metal pipes.
4. Pour the concrete solution in several approaches (without allowing the previous layer to dry) or at a time.
5. Roofing felt is laid on top of the concrete to waterproof the frame walls.

Projects and drawings of a two-story frame bathhouse provide for the provision of the most reliable support on any type of soil, with the exception of floating ones. The base is a prefabricated strip foundation.

Installation and insulation of floor coverings

Bars with a cross-section of 5x5 centimeters are nailed to the bottom of the logs in the main rooms of the bathhouse building. Rough coating boards are mounted on top of them, then roofing felt (for waterproofing), followed by mineral wool slabs 10 centimeters high or expanded polystyrene. Before laying the final finishing material for the floor, glassine is laid (to provide a vapor barrier).

IN washing department floors can be arranged differently:

1. To ensure that the floor surface is warm in any weather and dries quickly, a separate foundation should be created around the perimeter of the room.
2. The soil is removed to a depth of 50 centimeters and a 10-centimeter layer of gravel and sand is poured into the resulting trench. If water enters such a drainage hole, it will go into the ground and a pit will not be required.
3. For this floor, it is advisable to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 10 centimeters. They are laid directly on the foundation and filled with concrete so that they do not move.
4. Then a 4-5 cm thick edged round board is laid on the pipes, maintaining a gap of 6-7 millimeters and using rubber gaskets, which are fixed with nails.
5. Then the floor material is pressed down with baseboards.

Walling

If we are building a frame bathhouse, after the foundation is prepared, we can begin building the walls. Before doing this, make sure that the wood is well dried. Type of wood used special significance has no exception for birch, since it will quickly rot. The main thing is that the wood has low thermal conductivity.

When choosing materials for external cladding, preference should be given to pine and larch, while aspen is best suited for interior finishing. After completion of construction, the outside of the building is covered with an antiseptic, for example, Texturol. It is necessary to monitor the quality of the work performed so that repairs to the bathhouse are not required too early.

Inside, a do-it-yourself bathhouse made from boards, when finishing the walls with clapboard, is sanded and coated with furniture varnish in several layers. Wood paneling The inside of the steam room and washing room are treated with a special impregnation.

Construction of walls on the foundation

The most reliable design is considered to be a lower frame made of high-quality timber, having, for example, a cross-section of 10x10 centimeters. It is connected at the quarter corners and securely fastened with nails.

Intermediate racks are installed along the perimeter of the walls, made from beams with a cross-section of 10x10 centimeters. Floor logs are also created from paired boards with a cross-section of 15x5 centimeters. They are placed on the waterproofing of the base of the bathhouse.

Installation of finished walls

People who have experience in how to build a frame bathhouse advise building and fastening the walls for this building on the ground, after which they should be lifted and installed in place.

It’s more convenient to do it this way, since your hands won’t get too numb. In addition, when using this technology, it is possible to build both walls and a foundation at the same time if several people work.

Construction of the truss structure

Typically, boards with a section of 15x5 centimeters are used for floor beams and rafters in frame baths. They are placed on the edge and fastened together. As a result, a distance of 10x12 centimeters is obtained between the rafters. In a vertical position they are fixed with “kerchiefs”, and they are combined on top ridge beam similar section.

The beams extend outward approximately 40 centimeters. The sheathing is made from boards 25 cm thick, it is laid in the direction from the ridge.

To fasten rafter forms special metal plates are used. It is much easier to assemble such a structure on the ground next to the building, and then lift it up and install it there ready-made.

From roofing materials best choice there will be soft tiles (if a light bathhouse is being built on a conditional foundation) and metal tiles (if a large building is being built). When it is not planned to build an attic, then external roof insulation is required.

Exterior wall decoration

As practice has shown, the construction of frame baths is best done from OSB boards. The fact is that they are multi-layered and do not move or warp, as happens with natural wood. But a bathhouse made of OSB or other materials needs exterior decoration. One option is plastering or painting.

The modern construction market offers a huge selection finishing materials and therefore, it does not matter how simple the design of the bathhouse is from the outside, since it can be given an expensive appearance.

The most popular and in demand of them now are:

1. Lining. This finishing decorative material the most accessible and easy to install for external upholstery of frame baths. Such buildings look very solid. On the external wall, the lining is placed horizontally after waterproofing has been made from glassine, the sheets of which are fixed overlapping and the edges are taped. If the work is done efficiently, unnecessary moisture will not be able to penetrate inside the bathhouse.
2. Thermal panels. Often the construction of a frame building requires wall insulation, which can be done with their help. Thermal panels have a three-layer structure. It contains between two polyvinyl chloride layers thermal insulation material(mineral wool or polystyrene foam). The surface of thermal panels, as a rule, looks like masonry and is sprinkled with compressed stone chips on top. The panels have mutual grooves, and after they are laid, a monolithic pattern is obtained, reminiscent of brick or stone walls. The finishing of the façade of the bathhouse is carried out using ordinary self-tapping screws - they will fix the material to the profiles.
3. Facing brick. In the landscape of any homestead or summer cottage, on which the frame bathhouse is built, fits perfectly brickwork. An even row always looks beautiful on bathhouse building. The cost of facing a frame structure with brick will be much cheaper than building an entire bathhouse from it. In addition, additional insulation can be laid between the brick trim and wooden walls.
4. Vinyl siding. This is the most popular modern facing material, used for cladding frame bath buildings. Siding has affordable price and is easy to install. In addition, the market offers a wide selection of textures, colors and thicknesses of products.
5. Block house. Frame bathhouse, the façade of which is lined with this the latest material, looks like a log structure. It is almost impossible to distinguish such a building from a real log house.

Internal insulation and vapor barrier

Improvement of the bathhouse premises of a frame bath from the inside involves carrying out work to prevent the accumulation of moisture as a result of temperature changes. The fact is that it is very hot inside the structure in the winter, and the weather outside is cold. Hence the need to install a vapor barrier. Most simple solution This problem is the laying of plastic film under interior decoration clapboard.

You should approach the work of covering the steam room room responsibly. In this case, you will need a high-quality vapor barrier made of glassine, aluminum foil, polyethylene film, etc.

It is not recommended to use materials such as roofing felt or roofing felt in a steam room, since under the influence of high temperatures they will begin to emit an unpleasant specific odor. Experts recommend for internal insulation For frame baths, use rolled material “Ursoy” with a thickness of 50 millimeters.

It is laid out between vertical posts, securing with nailed slats. In some places, the heat insulator can be fixed to external boards, but using special nails with a rubber washer above the head.

As a result of the work done, you should get some kind of cake for the walls of the bathhouse from the following layers:

• external lining;
• glassine;
• polyethylene film;
• internal lining.

The main point that should not be forgotten is the need to leave a 5 cm air gap.

Special attention are given to the steam room, where it is important to ensure the “thermos effect”. For this reason, it is recommended to place the heat insulator with foil inside the room. On the ceiling you need to use not only foil Ursa, but also regular insulation, laying it in a layer of 5 centimeters.

As for the walls and ceiling of the steam room, it is advisable to use aspen lining, which has healing properties, for finishing. Boards, namely poplar or tongue-and-groove linden, are also suitable.

Ventilation

Before making a frame bathhouse, they carefully consider the arrangement of high-quality ventilation. If the building is small, an asbestos cement exhaust pipe with a cross-section of 12 centimeters will be sufficient. They take her to the attic.

At the end of last summer, my son and I decided to do it ourselves at our dacha. We already have a permanent house there, and besides, there are no problems with electricity and water supply. The choice was made at frame building, as it is not only economical, but can also be built in a matter of days.

Having prepared a design for a 4.5 x 4.5 m bathhouse, I began purchasing timber, boards, fasteners, power tools, metal tiles, insulation, OSB, hydro- and vapor barrier. I also ordered the delivery of fireclay and regular red bricks, and refractory clay for the stove. By the way, I designed the stove for the bath myself. An experienced stove master helped me with the laying; after all, I wanted the stove to be as efficient and safe as possible. I drew up a diagram of the stove on a checkered sheet of paper; I tried to film the construction process (including the construction of the house) in as much detail as possible so that my experience would be useful to other people.

Of course, it’s quite difficult to build a bathhouse for two people, so at some points my son and I were helped by two more brave workers.

Layout

To begin with, a project for our future bathhouse was drawn up. We thought about the location of the rest room, shower room, steam room, and the location of the stove. According to the project, we calculated the location of the water supply and sewer pipes, the installation locations electrical cables. We decided to build a gable roof with a window on the gable. There should be space under the roof for an attic in which we will store tools or bath brooms. There will be two windows in total, not taking into account what is under the roof. One is used as a light source in the relaxation room (120 x 120 cm), the other two are for additional ventilation of the steam room (60 x 60 cm) and the washing room (90 x 60 cm). We will install a metal door for greater security of property during our absence from the dacha.

The entrance group will consist of a small wooden staircase and a gable canopy, also made of wood.

It was decided to build the foundation from asbestos-cement pipes. There are 24 posts in total, and 5 of them will hold the stove. In the future, a blind area will be laid around the foundation of the bathhouse and a storm drain will be installed, because I am not eager to go out into the damp, dirty yard after pleasant procedures.

We located the bathhouse in one of the corners of the site. Nearby there is a high fence and trees. An ideal place, in my opinion, for construction. Perhaps in the near future we will build a font or a small one on the lawn near the bathhouse

Foundation

The foundation, as I already said, under our bathhouse is columnar. First, with the help of mercenaries, we removed with shovels a layer of soil with grass growing on it. The site was leveled, after which markings began.

The first angle was marked by sticking a peg into the ground and leveling it plumb. For further marking, a square and a five-meter tape measure were useful. A cord was tied to the first peg, 450 mm was measured, the angle was checked and two more pegs were inserted, respectively indicating the second and third corners of the bathhouse. Having pulled the cord in the same way, we installed the last fourth peg.

Despite the fact that we checked the angles with a square, measuring the diagonals showed slight inaccuracies. I had to correct them by slightly moving the stakes and clearly leveling them.

The next stage of the work was marking the location of the columns, the distance between which is 112.5 cm. The location was marked by simply sticking the reinforcement rods shallowly.

The bathhouse will have one interior partition connected to the corner of the stove. Using a tape measure, my son and I measured and marked the position of one post that will hold the partition and four more posts that will later be under the stove.

After all the calculations and markings, it's time to drill holes for the foundation pillars. They will go one and a half meters underground and stick out from the ground another 30 cm. The photo shows that we removed the cords, but left the pegs. The holes were dug quite quickly - the workers drilled with a gas drill, the son helped carry the earth. By the way, the diameter of the pits was approximately 30 cm, that is, 5 cm larger diameter asbestos cement pipes.

To ensure that the posts stood firmly, I poured a layer of gravel and sand at the bottom of the holes, and then compacted this backfill with a hand tamper. I made it myself by nailing a handle bar perpendicularly to a long birch log. The principle is simple - pour gravel, take a log, lower it into the hole and knock with it several times.

Sand and gravel were poured into each hole, pillars were compacted and placed, 5 pieces were placed under the stove

My son and I mixed the cement for the posts in a small electric one. They poured cement, sand, and some crushed stone, mixed it and poured in water. The columns were filled according to all the rules. First, the pipe was lowered into the hole, then the first layer of solution was poured into it. We lifted the pipe so that part of the solution flowed to the bottom of the hole, after which we lowered it, leveled it and then poured it to the top in layers of 20-30 cm. Each layer had to be compacted using the same log with a crossbar. Fortunately, the diameter of the log was smaller than the diameter of the pipes. To avoid staining the pillars, concrete was poured through a narrow chute and a plastic funnel. It turned out quite neat. After pouring, we drove reinforcement bars (threaded rods) into the concrete. The upper edge was left to stick out slightly above the concrete in order to later attach the bars of the lower frame. Lastly, sand was poured into the space between the walls of the pits and the pipes. At this point, the construction work was temporarily completed.

Two days later, having had a good rest, I started working on the foundation for the furnace. I cut the chipboard sheet into 5 parts - 4 for the walls of the formwork and 1 for the bottom. I tried the largest sheet on the support posts, then went to drill holes in it for the studs, and at the same time nailed the sides with nails. I placed the resulting box with holes on the studs, prepared the nuts and washers and, leveling the sheet, slowly tightened the fasteners. The formwork was supported from below with boards.

To make the foundation under the stove stronger, I made a reinforcement frame. Found welded mesh, cut out two pieces almost to the size of the formwork and welded pieces of wire so that the frame turned out to be voluminous. Look at the diagram, it shows how the rods are arranged. Of course, ideally, do not use welded mesh, but tie individual reinforcement bars yourself with soft wire. Such a connection is more flexible and almost never breaks down.

It was poured into the formwork with the reinforcement frame laid, mixed with a portion of small crushed stone. There’s not much to say here - they poured it in, drove out air bubbles with wire, compacted it, covered it with film and left it to harden. This process is lengthy and takes a whole month. My son and I did not wait, having decided during this time to make the frame of the bathhouse, the roof and some related work.

Before I started laying the beams, I dug sewer and water supply pipes between the pillars so that later I wouldn’t have to crawl under the joists.

Bottom trim and subfloors

The bottom frame is the first layer of beams laid on the foundation columns. I took a well-dried timber, 15 x 15 cm, and treated it with Senezh. The humidity in the bathhouse is quite high; wood without impregnation will simply begin to rot.

I connected the beams using the “claw” method. For clarity, I drew a diagram with dimensions. In the work I used a hacksaw and a grinder. First, I cut out all the ends, then laid out the beams in the clearing in front of the bathhouse and checked the correctness of the connections.

While I was doing this, my son was laying waterproofing on the foundation - coating the tops of the pillars bitumen mastic and glued pieces of roofing felt onto it.

To lay the strapping on the foundation, we had to drill holes for the studs sticking out of the concrete. The timber was laid directly on the posts, markings were made in place, after which I drilled. Having marked the first two beams, we laid them on the supports, checked them with a square so that the angle was exactly 90 degrees, and only after that tightened the locking nuts. By the way, we didn’t drill holes for the intermediate posts; we cut down the reinforcement so it wouldn’t interfere. The timber was screwed with nuts only at the corners of the bathhouse. Two more pieces of timber were laid in the place where the interior partition would be.

Now it's time to lay the floor joists. In order not to have to worry about cutting out the bars again, I purchased plates with holes for anchors.

I took the boards with a section of 150 x 50, sawed them and fastened them to the beams using the mentioned fasteners, screws and a screwdriver.

I sewed the joists on top OSB sheets. The result was a pretty good subfloor.

Zero is ready, subfloor - 22 mm OSB

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

OSB (oriented strand board)

Assembling the frame and trusses

Wall assembly

We assembled the walls from the same boards with a cross-section of 150 x 50 mm, fastening them together using metal perforated plates (corners). In theory, the distance between the racks should be from 60 cm to one meter, and this is what we did, except that the boards were installed a little closer to each other above and below the window lintels.

The walls are assembled using corners and 45 mm iron screws

We carried out the assembly on the lawn near the bathhouse, so it was much more convenient to take measurements, cut and fix. Assembly is very simple - first, the two upper and two lower boards are fastened together, then the rectangles of the windows are assembled, after which the missing lintels and supports are added. Additionally, we strengthened the wall structure with jibs. Also, in order to strengthen the structure, we attached one more board each with self-tapping screws (we used galvanized ones, 45 mm) above the three window and one door lintels (pay attention to the photo).

The walls were installed one by one, starting with the front. It is very difficult to install the structure without distortions alone or even together, so the assembly was carried out by five people - me, my son and three assistants. The walls were fastened to each other and to the floors with stainless steel nails 100 mm long, driving them in two rows every 45-50 cm. Finally, another row of strapping boards was laid and nailed on top of the walls. This method frame construction reminds the children's designer. We assembled and installed the walls in just three days.

Rafters

The roof of our bathhouse is gable with hanging rafters. In total we made 11 trusses. The photo shows how we lifted them onto the roof.

The trusses were made with a slope of 45 degrees and reinforced with two struts. Having made one truss and fastened the elements with perforated plates, I continued working, using the first triangle as a template for the rest. The rafters of the roof of my bathhouse will rest on the boards of the top trim and be attached to it with corners. Pay attention to the cuts made in those places where the rafters will come into contact with the top trim, as well as at the ends of the rafters, where I cut off a corner for a more aesthetic appearance of the overhangs.

Roof trusses

The rafter truss, which serves as a pediment, was reinforced with four vertical strips, and in the center I nailed two lintels in order to later install a ventilation window.

The two outer trusses were assembled from just two boards each. We attached these trusses last. The photo shows the bars holding them in place. Thus, we created small canopies on the back side of the bathhouse and above the facade.

Frame and almost finished roof

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Installation of metal tiles

I decided to cover the bathhouse with Finnish Pural matt metal tiles, because its matte finish is the most resistant to fading and mechanical damage.

Before installing the metal tiles, I laid a layer of waterproofing on the roof, which I secured with thin slats directly to the rafters. Next, with a small gap, I fastened the sheathing boards.

I nailed sheets of metal tiles onto the sheathing. Ordinary self-tapping screws are not suitable here, so I purchased special ones, painted to match the coating. I laid the metal tiles in one row, adhering to the following pattern:

• the sheet was lifted onto the roof with ropes;
• work started from the lower right corner. The first one was aligned with the cornice and attached with special screws, and they were not screwed in completely so that it was possible to correct the position of the sheet;
• the second sheet was laid with an overlap in one wave and again screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws;
• The last sheet of the row was secured when the second row was laid.

Immediately, so as not to have to return to the roof several times, I cut the lining and hemmed the cornices.

Installation of a drainage system

I installed the gutter with help. I chose metal gutters because they are the most durable, although plastic ones are cheaper. I bought gutters with a width of 100 mm and a diameter of 75 mm. The length of the eaves of my bathhouse is 5 meters each, the distance from the eaves to the blind area is 2.5 meters. Based on this data, I purchased two pipes 2.2 meters long, two outlet funnels suitable for the gutters, two drain elbows, 4 plugs for the gutters. Another 4 elbows were needed to connect the pipes to the funnels.

The pipes are attached to the wall with clamps every 30 cm, so I took 14 clamps, and 10 brackets, I will mount them on the cornice every meter. Four locks were also needed to secure the three-meter gutters.

I started work with markings. I took a stepladder, a tape measure, a marker, and thread and crawled under the roof. I needed to stretch the thread enough to attach the gutter with a slope of 5mm per 1m, so a total slope of 25mm.

I attached the two outermost adjustable brackets to the sheathing (15 cm from the edge) and pulled the thread. I checked the slope with a tape measure. The remaining brackets were secured so that they touched the thread. Next, I nailed the cornice strip to the sheathing.

By the way, I did all this work before installing the metal tiles, and laid the gutters directly when the entire covering was installed. I connected the pipes when the outer cladding of the walls of the house was done.

The gutters were connected with locks. I applied sealant to the rubber gasket and connected the pipes, leaving a gap of approximately 3 mm between the ends of the joined elements. This gap is needed to compensate for thermal expansion.

I used a hacksaw to cut out V-shaped holes in the gutters, took the funnels and connected each one by simply sliding the edges under the outer bend of the gutter and then bending the flange over the front edge of the gutter. I installed the funnel at a distance of 15 cm from the end of the gutter.

I installed plugs at the ends of the gutters. The drain elbow was secured to the pipe with rivets. I didn’t buy the spider that is inserted into the funnel; I bent the wire myself so that it would trap debris.

I fixed the pipe holders with dowels. The pipes are assembled very simply - they are inserted into each other and fastened with clamps, which are pre-nailed with dowels to the wall.

Bathroom wall cladding

For external cladding For the walls of the bathhouse, I chose Izoplaat slabs. They have good vapor permeability, and the material is natural. Plus, these slabs strengthen the rigidity of bathhouse walls. I took “Izoplaat” 25 mm thick, cut it with a jigsaw and fastened it to the frame with nails.

Green slabs - Isoplaate, vapor permeable. Roof - Pural Matt metal tiles

I stretched the Izospan film over the Izoplaat slabs. This material is also waterproof and windproof, but still allows steam to pass through. I secured the material with a stapler, making horizontal and vertical overlaps of approximately 10 cm.

I insulated the inside of the bathhouse with basalt wool. The slabs had to be cut in places because they did not fit into the space between the posts. Additionally, I didn’t secure the cotton wool with anything; it lay down quite tightly.

Already at this stage, my assistants began to make plumbing from polypropylene. This is clearly visible in the photo. I chose this hidden type of pipe installation for aesthetic reasons. In the future, all of them will be hidden under the finishing cladding.

Outdoor decorative paneling the baths were made with clapboards. This material was not chosen by chance. Firstly, a bathhouse lined with wood has a presentable appearance, and secondly, wooden lining allows the walls to “breathe” and condensation does not accumulate either in the insulation or in the frame itself.

To provide the necessary air layer, I stuffed thin layers directly onto the vapor barrier. wooden slats 3 cm wide and only half a centimeter thick.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Ebb tides for the base

By the way, it was after I filled the slats and before the installation of the lining began that I began installing the ebb for the base. I took green metal strips. The width I chose was only 50 mm - this is quite enough for a bathhouse. To secure the ebb tides evenly, I first pulled the thread, checked the line with a level, and then proceeded with installation from far corner baths

I took the first plank and marked a line across the profile with a pencil in the center. I stepped back 5 cm from this line to the right and left, put points and connected them so that a triangle was formed. This triangle was cut out with metal scissors, after which I bent the strip, attached it to the wall of the house and tightened special self-tapping screws with washers. To make it clearer, I am attaching a diagram that I found on the Internet.

The rest of the profiles around the perimeter were attached in the same way - simply screwing in the screws and checking the horizontalness at the same time. All joints were coated with frost-resistant sealant. When I installed all the planks, I additionally strengthened the base ebbs with polyurethane foam - I applied it in a small amount under the planks.

Installation of lining

I decided to install the lining using clamps. Of course, you can simply nail the boards, but this is quite ugly.

My son and I simply pressed the first board against the wall, leveled it and secured it with self-tapping screws, screwing them along the edges of the plank. Then, clamps were inserted into the grooves of the first board of the lining on top (they were inserted next to the battens of the sheathing, stuffed on top of the vapor barrier) and nails were driven into the existing holes. The second board was inserted into the groove of the previous one. Both boards were tapped with a hammer through the intermediate block so that they were tightly connected. Next, we inserted the clamps again and secured them with nails. The remaining boards were fastened in the same way, sawing off the excess in the window and door openings.

I simply nailed the last triangle under the roof itself.

When I finished with the walls, I built a small one above front door. Later, I brought it to mind, turning it into a gable, covering it with metal tiles and installing a street lamp under the canopy.

Window

Windows are a different story. They must be installed following technology and avoiding distortions. In a bathhouse, windows should not only be a source of light and provide ventilation, but also retain heat well.

I ordered the windows themselves in advance from one company, but I installed everything. To begin with, I took vapor barrier and waterproofing tape. The first one was secured around the perimeter window frame from the inside, the second - from the outside, that is, from the street. Later I will glue the edges of these tapes to Izospan.

I installed the frame and tapped plastic spacer wedges to create a two-centimeter gap for the foam. The windows included mounting anchor plates with holes into which I screwed long self-tapping screws. Afterwards I foamed the gaps and checked everything with a level again.

By the way, when installing the sash, I only filmed from one window – the largest. I installed small windows without removing the frames.

Door

I ordered a metal door so that ill-wishers would not get into my bathhouse in winter.

First, I took the door off its hinges to try the frame in the opening. All measurements were accurate and the box fit perfectly. I secured the box with self-tapping screws through the eyes, having previously placed wedges under it for leveling. I filled the gaps between the frame of the house and the door frame with mounting foam, when it dried, I hung the door leaf.

Bath ceiling

To arrange the ceiling, I took an ordinary edged larch board and carefully nailed it to the floor beams. In the place where there will be a hatch for access to the attic, I cut out a rectangular hole.

Further work continued in the attic and after the sauna stove was built. I laid a foil vapor barrier on the rough ceiling, and slabs on top of it basalt wool, inserting them tightly between the floor beams. I pulled it over the cotton wool plastic film and secured it with tape. To finish, I simply nailed another layer of edged boards. All that remains is to make the hatch cover and secure the ladder. The fasteners were included, but I simply screwed all the parts to the floor beams.

I purchased a good quality ladder, retractable, equipped with a ready-made hatch cover. However, so that this cover would not stand out on the ceiling, I carefully covered it with slats. It turned out well, the hatch became almost invisible when closed.

Wiring

I dealt thoroughly with the issue of electricity, trying to do everything carefully and according to the rules. The photo shows that I made the wiring, as well as the water supply pipes, hidden, laying the wires at the stage of internal insulation of the walls of the bathhouse and before finishing.

All wiring is in metal hoses, connections are in boxes on terminals. In the panel there is a general RCD for 30 mA, then 3 circuits

Electricity was pulled from the house through the air, fortunately the distance was short. He screwed a hook into one of the walls of the bathhouse, and screwed the same one into the wall of the house (the distance from the hooks to the ground is about three meters). He pulled a strong cable between them, around which a conductive cable was wrapped.

The photo shows the clamps that are attached to the hooks. It is mounted like this:

• the SIP wire is moved apart, a place for the clamp is prepared;
• the SIP wire is inserted into the grooves of the anchor clamp;
• the wires “wedge”;
• The anchor clamp is attached to the hook - support.

I installed sockets, switches (class IP-44) and a panel in the dressing room. The distance from the floor to the sockets was 90 cm. In the steam room and washing room I ran wires only for the lamps (I tried to do everything away from the stove), because in these rooms it is too humid and sockets simply cannot be installed.

He took copper cables and pulled them through a non-flammable metal corrugation, which he secured with clamps. In some places we had to drill holes in the support beams to install the corrugation. I installed the socket boxes when I covered the walls with clapboard. And the sockets, switches and beautiful lamps themselves (for the steam room I took with a heat-resistant lamp, class IP-54) were installed last.

I'm doing grounding. The grounding was done as expected - a triangle, vertical corners scalded with a 40 mm strip. The RCD is triggered “at once”

The grounding was done as it should be - a triangle, the vertical half-meter corners were welded with a 40 mm strip. To do this, I had to enlist the help of an electrician friend who had a welding machine. A triangle trench was dug near the bathhouse. They drove the triangle welded from the corners into the ground. Then they welded another section of steel strip, which was brought above the ground near the wall of the bathhouse. An M10 bolt was welded to the end of the strip. Next, it was necessary to drill a hole in the wall of the bathhouse in order to lay a copper grounding conductor (mine was 8 mm in diameter) from the grounding to the distribution panel. We wound the conductor around the bolt, closed the whole thing with a terminal box, and a qualified electrician and part-time friend of mine worked on the panel.

Everything took about two hours. I treated the metal strip with bitumen to prevent it from rusting. I dug the ditches, compacted them, and next summer I will sow a lawn there.

Sewerage

There will be a shower in the bathhouse, and water treatments are planned in the steam room, so installing a sewer system is a necessity. I provided a drainage well as the final collection point for wastewater. I dug a one and a half meter hole with a diameter of about 1.2 meters, compacted the bottom, covered it with sand and small gravel. Then we installed two meter-long reinforced concrete rings into the pit. The joint of the rings was coated with cement mixed with liquid glass.

Trench for water supply. Depth - per bayonet

Pipes led from the washing room and steam room. I ran another pipe from the location of the urinal. Three holes were made in the floor and pipes were inserted into them. The three pipes were connected to each other with a suitable fitting. A common pipe was laid at a slight slope along a dug trench to the well. One pipe was not long enough, so I had to connect two straight sections with a coupling. All joints are silicone. I first added sand to the bottom of the trench, and used it to fill the pipe after installation.

The well was covered with a round reinforced concrete slab with a hole. I built the neck out of brick, and instead of the lid, I installed a metal hatch for gas tap. It is small in diameter, but sufficient for inspecting the drainage level in the well and pumping out wastewater with a sewer truck. But there’s no need to go all the way inside, I think so.

Inspection hatch. Instead of a hatch, a hatch for the gas tap was installed. You can check the level and pump it out. There's no need to climb inside

The premises were installed drains with siphons and filters. A compact part that is inserted directly into the sewer pipe. When choosing, I preferred a product with a metal grille, guided by considerations of reliability and durability. The grill itself is square with round hole in the center, when laying the tiles I didn’t have to spend a lot of time fiddling around with cutting. I installed the drain in parallel with pouring the floor screed and laying the tiles, which I will discuss later.

Brick cutting machine - grinder on a Chinese bed

I developed and designed it myself. The laying was carried out by the stove maker, based on my sketches. The work began before the finishing floors were installed, the reasons, I think, are clear.

Roofing felt was laid on the previously poured foundation and the first row of bricks was laid. To prevent distortions, each row of bricks was first laid out without clay mortar. A level was used to check horizontality. Plumb lines were also pulled to control the verticality of the masonry.

The photo shows the second and third row of bricks that form the ash chamber and the “appendix” necessary to warm the bottom of the furnace. This design significantly exceeds the efficiency of classic stoves with an ash chamber with an area equal to the firebox.

Before installation, I wrapped the doors with asbestos cord and sealed them with masking tape. I inserted a binding wire into the existing holes and twisted it. During the process of laying bricks, the stove maker placed the long ends of twisted wire between the rows, which ensured that the doors were securely installed.

In the fourth row, the ash pan was covered, the doors were finally secured and part of the “appendix” was blocked. Here they laid a cast-iron grate, cutting rectangular cuts in the bricks for it. The grid (size 20 x 30 cm) lay down freely, with a gap of about 2 cm necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

To make the ceiling strong enough, the bricks were hewn down into a wedge. Metal corners were not used when arranging the ceiling.

Between the fourth and fifth rows, and then every two rows, the stove maker advised laying a reinforcing steel mesh.

Next, the master laid out the firebox, using yellow fireclay bricks for its walls. The ceilings and firebox door were arranged according to the principle described above. Detailed Process masonry is visible in the photo. Also installed in the firebox fireclay bricks with triangular cuts. These holes are necessary for supplying secondary air, without which the afterburning of wood gases is impossible.

When laying gas (smoke) channels, as well as between the fireclay core and the outer walls of the furnace, asbestos cardboard. Note the overlap of the fireclay core. The bricks are hewn and installed on edge.

Also visible in the photo are red brick ledges on which cast iron bricks will be laid. And on top there will be stove stones. To make it clearer, I drew a diagram of the fireclay core indicating the position of the cast iron bricks and some other elements of the furnace. WITH right side The stove will have a fireplace portal facing the steam room. And the cleaning and fuel loading doors open into the dressing room. This way, smoke and carbon monoxide will never penetrate into the steam room, and you can splash some water on the hot stones - “steam.”

Bath stove. Adapter frame

Bath stove. Fireplace portal

After covering the fireclay core and installing the fireplace portal (see photo), the masonry continued without changes. Inside, straight vertical smoke channels were still formed, which were combined into one on rows 20-21. A ceiling was formed above the far smoke channel, a valve frame (bypass view) was installed between the channels, the hole in which ensured the free movement of gases, and above the near smoke channel, instead of a ceiling, the stove maker installed a chimney valve. The part was placed in pre-prepared cuts in the bricks and secured with fireclay clay and two dowels (the holes in the bricks were drilled with a Pobedit drill).

Two rows later, another pipe valve was installed. There are three valves in total - two of them for the chimney and one bypass installed between smoke channels(direct stroke).

Three valves - two per pipe and one bypass (direct stroke)

The photo shows the transition to ceramic pipe, made in the form of four rows of bricks, each row partially overhanging the one below. Above the fourth overhanging row of bricks, three more rows are laid - the transition to the chimney. In the last row of this transition a cut is visible round shape, in which ceramic will be installed chimney, or rather an element for collecting condensate.

There are also brick protrusions on the side panels of the stove, which are necessary for further arrangement of interior partitions.

The furnace was covered right up to the ceiling. Used metal corners, on which the final row of bricks was laid. Asbestos sheets were laid between the ceiling and the bricks.

Installation of the chimney itself (I took a ceramic Italian one, Effie Domus for the bathhouse) took very little time. The blocks were simply installed on top of each other, fixed with sealant and building clay mortar. A deflector was installed on top of the chimney to protect against precipitation.

A few days later they tested the sauna stove - they burned several newspapers. The traction is just great.

Later, when I was making the finishing floor, I laid a steel sheet with an ash receptacle in front of the firebox. It’s easier to sweep this way, and the floor won’t catch fire if a coal accidentally falls out.

All the bricks that are left :)

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Floor

We insulated it. The steam room and shower have tiled flooring, and the dressing room has laminate flooring. First, I’ll tell you about the steam room and shower; there are many more important nuances there.

Laying tiles

The tiles were purchased from matte finish and rough so that it does not slip. We decided that tiles are much better wooden floor– does not rot, and is easy to clean. The glue was purchased with the best moisture resistance characteristics.

Waterproofing was laid on the subfloor, overlapping the walls. On top of the waterproofing, insulation was laid - EPPS (thickness 30 mm). For better adhesion of EPS to the waterproofing, assembly adhesive was used.

A screed was poured over the insulation along the beacons with a slope towards the drain funnel. Before pouring the solution, a reinforcing mesh and a set of beacons were laid. The photo shows that we attached the beacons not to the floor, but to an asbestos solution - we laid out piles and pressed profiles into them. The solution (cement with sand) was mixed in a rented concrete mixer, because... It was important to fill the entire floor in one day. The solution was spread from the bucket with a trowel onto the grid between the beacons and leveled with a wooden plank - the rule. The floor was finally leveled with a wide trowel and grout.

The tiles were laid away from the drain gutter to make it easier to maintain the slope. Each one was pre-soaked in water. The glue was applied with a notched trowel onto the dried and primed screed. In this case, glue was not applied to the entire surface of the floor at once, but only to the space for laying 1-2 tiles. The glue hardens quickly and should not be used to cover a large area of ​​the floor at once. The thickness of the adhesive layer was kept approximately equal to the thickness of the tile. I collected the excess glue around the laid elements with a simple narrow spatula.

First, all rows of whole tiles were laid out, then parts along the walls. We cut the tiles with a manual tile cutter. By the way, for precision masonry we pulled the fishing line and used crosses for the seams. And for better contact surface of the tile with a binder, immediately after laying, I lightly tapped each square of tile with a rubber mallet.

Laminate

They installed it very quickly. We covered the floor with film over the insulation, nailed down moisture-resistant plywood, and rolled out the backing.

I unpacked the package with a knife. He took out the first panel and laid it down, turning it with a small protrusion towards the wall. I inserted 2 plastic wedges between the wall and the board. I took the second strip and snapped it into the end groove of the first. I leveled it and placed the wedges again. When I reached the opposite wall, circular saw I cut off an extra piece of laminate panel. The next row began from the segment. The second row was assembled in the same way as the first, after which I lifted the entire floorboard at an angle of 45 degrees and carefully connected it to the latch of the first row, and then hammered it through the block with a mallet. The last row had to be sawed lengthwise, precisely measuring the cutting line.

Walls

The walls, as can be seen in the photo report, are covered with clapboard or tiled. First things first.

Laying tiles

We sheathed the walls on top of the insulation with moisture-resistant gypsum fiber board. Self-tapping screws were used for fastening. They were screwed in in increments of 25 cm and retreating slightly from the edge. The sheets were cut so that the joints fell on the frame beams.

In the steam room, it was decided to make a plinth from tiles, so I had to purchase two sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, carefully cut them into strips and screw them around the perimeter of the walls. By the way, the drywall was already attached to the fixed foil (vapor barrier).

In the shower, the first row was laid with floor tiles. I had to cut it a little so that the top row of tiles on the wall consisted of whole tiles.

I applied glue to the wall with a spatula, applied it and tapped the tiles with a mallet. I inserted crosses between adjacent tiles so that the seams were the same. I checked the flatness and horizontality with a long water level. The second and subsequent rows were laid with tiles of a different color.

Some tiles were used for further installation of pipes and electrical appliances. I made markings with a pencil, checked the accuracy of the position of the hole with a ruler and square, after which the drill went into action. First I drilled the hole with a spear drill. To prevent the tile from splitting, I glued a piece on top masking tape. After the central hole was ready, I changed the nozzle to a circular one. I immediately purchased a crown with tungsten carbide coating for these purposes. Quite expensive, but it was enough for the entire finishing process.

Immediately during the laying process, excess glue was removed with a rag until the composition dried. The grout seams turned out smooth and neat.

A day after finishing the walls with tiles, I started working on the seams. To begin with, I pulled out all the crosses. I used two colors of grout – white and dark brown. For the bath I selected a two-component epoxy composition. It's not the cheapest, but it's ideal for wet areas. I mixed the grout components in one bucket and did not add water.

Before applying the epoxy grout, I lightly wet the wall with a spray bottle. I collected the mass onto a spatula and then spread it over the seams, making movements from left to right perpendicular to the seam. The spatula was held at an angle of approximately 30 degrees. I leveled the grout 30 minutes after its application, using rubber spatula. Well, finally, when the seams were dry, I washed the walls with soap and water.

Lining - installation

The walls in the steam room were not sheathed with GVL. We stretched the foil vapor barrier and secured it with a stapler and tape. By the way, I also taped well the joint between the ventilation air duct and the foil. On top of the foil I carefully stuffed slats - lathing.

I would like to draw the readers' attention to the horizontal position of the wooden planks. I specially positioned them so as to avoid capillary rise of moisture along wooden wall and achieve good air circulation necessary for drying the material after bath procedures. It would be very unpleasant if the constant dampness caused the lining to wilt or if it rotted after a couple of years. After all, we build a bathhouse from the heart and for a long time. I also want to say that horizontal mount allows you to repair or change individual planks, and if the lining is located vertically on the walls, you will have to disassemble half the wall.

At first I wanted to just nail the boards, but then the choice again fell on clamps. They are not visible under the lining, and the nails can rust from high humidity, there will be black smudges on the walls.

I treated all the planks with Neomid impregnation to prevent the wood from rotting. And to attach the first and last strips, I purchased copper-plated finishing nails.

Installation started from the ceiling. I stepped back 3 cm, applied the bar, and nailed the nail into the center. I drove another nail on both sides of the board, and then checked the level with a level. I assembled the lining so that the tenon was on top and the groove was on the bottom. This is important, because if you sheathe the wall differently, moisture will accumulate in the grooves, the wood will swell and move.

From below, I inserted clamps into the groove of the first board, each of them was nailed to the sheathing with three nails. I inserted the second forcing panel with a tenon into the groove. I lightly tapped it with a hammer from bottom to top so that there were no gaps left, after which I inserted the clamps and nailed them. So I collected it all the way to the floor. I cut the last bottom plank lengthwise so that there was a gap of 2 cm between the floor and the wood. I inserted the board into the tenon of the penultimate board and nailed it down. Along the way, I drilled holes for the wiring and often checked the horizontal position. I covered all the nails of the first and last panels wooden baseboard, and installed vertical strips in the corners for beauty.

Shelves in the steam room

I told you how to make the ceiling, floor and walls, the stove is ready, all that remains is to make the shelves in the bathhouse. For work I took linden boards and pine bars. I drew a diagram, prepared a screwdriver, long screws, metal mounting angles, a hammer and nails.

First, I marked the bars and cut them with a grinder. I cut the ends of the horizontal bars that will connect to the front vertical posts using the “tenon and groove” principle. That is, I made a “tenon” on the horizontal bars, and a “groove” on the vertical posts.

The first thing I screwed to the wall was the support posts. I would like to note that these supports should not be in contact with the floor; a gap of up to two centimeters should be left. I attached cross members to the support posts. I simply took the mounting angle and nailed it under the horizontal bars at the point where they connected to support posts. Thus, I nailed the bars on which the boards and bars will lie for stability.

Similarly, I assembled a frame for the lower bench and a small table for brooms, after which I laid boards on the frame and secured them with self-tapping screws. For convenience, I cut off the protruding sharp edges and thoroughly sanded the boards and frame so as not to plant a splinter.

Interior doors

Its principle is similar to the installation of an entrance door. The door in the steam room is glass, the door in the dressing room is wooden. The box in both cases is made of wood, ordered based on the size of the opening.

The box consists of several elements. The connections are sawed at an angle of 90 degrees. First, I secured the side strips and the top using nails. Then I inserted plastic wedges and several spacers between the elements of the box and blew out the mounting foam. When it had dried a little, I carefully nailed the side strips with nails door frame, which closed the gap and a layer of foam.

I didn’t take pictures of the process itself, so I’m attaching a picture diagram for clarity.

The hinges were included; I attached them to the box and canvas with self-tapping screws. At this stage of the work, it is important to check all distances with a tape measure so that the door hangs evenly. Next, all that remains is to hang the door on its hinges and install the door handle.

Plumbing

The photo shows that we have a douche bucket hanging on the wall, a urinal, a shower and a faucet with spout. The sewerage and hot/cold water pipes were installed at the stage of laying the foundation and building the walls. Now we will talk directly about the installation of plumbing.

Shower room, urinal

Let's start with the urinal. My son and I chose a wall-mounted compact model with a faucet instead cistern, they brought it, unpacked it, and put it against the wall to make markings. The urinal has mounting holes; we marked their location, as well as the outline, on the wall with a marker after we checked whether the product was evenly attached to the wall.

Holes for dowels were drilled according to the markings.

The siphon in the urinal is solid, we tried it on the outlet of the sewer pipe, after which we connected the pipe and siphon with a special pipe. The end of the pipe, which was inserted into the sewer pipe, was wrapped with linen thread and coated with red lead.

The urinal tap is very easy to install. The part is connected to the urinal through a rubber gasket. The height of the crane is adjusted by rotating the parts. The connection to the water supply pipe is made with a nut. After connecting the urinal to the water supply and sewerage, I coated the joint between the earthenware and the wall with plumbing sealant and checked the functionality of the entire system.

A little about the dousing bucket. It's a wonderful device that spins when you pull the chain, and the float mechanism inside the bucket keeps it from overfilling. The bucket frame is secured with dowels, and water is supplied through a flexible hose.

Installed according to the same principle. The package already contains everything you need, you only need an adjustable wrench and Unipack or Moment plumbing tape. I took the eccentrics out of the box, screwed them into the hot/cold water pipes, then took a level and adjusted them horizontally, while simultaneously bringing the distance between them to 150 mm (slightly turning each eccentric in turn).

The next stage was the installation of the product itself. A thread was screwed onto the eccentrics, rubber gaskets were put on, then I placed the mixer and screwed the union nuts onto the eccentrics.

I am sharing another video that I watched before installing the faucets.

Basement siding

To make the bathhouse look more pleasant and interesting, I decided to cover the foundation columns with basement siding panels. To secure it, metal strips are required to create the sheathing. Even a plasterboard profile will do. I would like to note that first I poured the blind area and made a boardwalk on the side of the facade, and only then attached the sheathing and panels. Otherwise it would be difficult to calculate the height of the panels.

To attach the sheathing (the lower starting profile at a distance of 5 cm from the blind area and flooring), I used self-tapping screws and corners (I simply cut off pieces of the plasterboard profile to make corners). With a screwdriver, the entire structure is assembled in a matter of hours; the main thing is to accurately measure the length of the vertical stiffeners and secure the horizontal profiles using a level (for convenience, I used a level and pulled a guide cord).

I fastened the panels with self-tapping screws, screwing them in approximately every half meter. Masking elements are secured in the corners in the same way. I immediately made square slots in the panels and installed ventilation grates(fastened with self-tapping screws in the corners) - 2 grates on each side of the bath.

Blind area

I poured between the foundation of the bathhouse and the fence. Immediately laid a drainage gutter with a grate. The order is as follows:

We have plank flooring in front of the front door. They just laid boards on three parallel bars, trimmed the edges with a hacksaw and laid them at the front door.

Larch flooring. Base - plastic panels"under a stone"

Finishing touches

To give the bathhouse a finished look, we equipped the porch with a canopy and a homemade staircase. The height of the steps on the stairs is 18 cm, the parts were assembled using mounting angles and self-tapping screws.

From the gate to the entrance I made it, near the bathhouse I managed to collect a compost box and a decent firewood bin. We brought furniture inside the bathhouse, hung shelves, curtains, and hung brooms. In the future, I plan to arrange a front garden near the bathhouse and build an outdoor barbecue.

If your own bathhouse is still only a dream, then it’s time to leave them and move on to action. In fact, anyone can build a bathhouse in their own yard. The main thing is to know in what sequence and what actions to perform. The article will provide step-by-step instructions that will allow you to do everything yourself.

Drafting

No building is complete without a good design. Regarding the bathhouse, you will need to think about the number of rooms. A steam room will be a must for the bath. Its size will depend on the desired number of people who will be in it at the same time. If it is possible to make a steam room in a bathhouse with a size of 3x2, then you can be sure that six people can comfortably fit in it. In addition to the steam room, a relaxation room is needed in the bathhouse. Usually it occupies the largest space in area. In this room in the bathhouse, as a rule, the necessary furniture is installed for a comfortable pastime.

Another room that is necessary for a bathhouse is a washing room. It can accommodate a shower stall and a toilet. Not required for this room large area. If you separate the bathroom, then the washing room can be an intermediate link between the relaxation room and the steam room in the bathhouse. It is also worth providing a hallway or dressing room in the bathhouse. It will provide an air cushion that will prevent heat from escaping quickly.

Step-by-step instruction

Step-by-step instructions describe the entire process of assembling the future structure, indicating the nuances and practical advice. Any construction begins with the construction of a foundation.

Foundation

The frame structure is lightweight due to its features. This means that for such a bath there is no point in pouring a slab or strip foundation. An excellent solution would be to use screw piles. They are metal pipes with a small drill at the end. Thanks to the drill, the piles can be easily immersed in the ground to the required depth. The length of the piles must be such that its lower part can pass through heaving soils and be fixed below the freezing level of the soil. At the same time, her top part should protrude above the surface at a given distance.

Some experts do not recommend marking under screw piles, which will serve as the foundation for the bathhouse. The reasoning is that it is quite simple to orient the position of the piles for a bathhouse relative to a fence or other structure. If the construction of a bathhouse is carried out on open area, then you can’t do without markings for piles. The photo above shows how this can be done. According to the developed bathhouse project, the dimensions are transferred to the site where construction will take place.

Pegs mark the places where the piles should be screwed in. The distance between the piles should be 1.5-2 meters. Everything will depend on the load applied, i.e. total weight buildings. After marking, one of the corners of the bathhouse is selected in which the first pile will be mounted.

To simplify your installation task, you need to make a pit. The depth of the pit must be no less than the diameter of the pile screw. It will help to start rotating and deepening the screw pile.

The photo above shows that for high-quality installation three people will be needed. Two carry out the twisting using levers, and the third holds the pile in a vertical position. In this case, the use of a magnetic level to track the vertical position is not yet required, since the pile is not firmly fixed in the ground.

After the pile is firmly planted in the ground, you can attach the magnetic level. In the photo above you can see that it is fixed perpendicular to where the tightening levers are located.

Two people continue to tighten the pile, and the third monitors its position by level. Thus, it is necessary to secure all the corner piles of the foundation for the bathhouse. After this, two ropes are stretched between the piles, as shown in the top photographs. They form a shaped channel into which the remaining piles will be mounted according to the markings that were applied. Piles are required not only for the main walls, but also for the partitions. After the piles are installed in place, it is necessary to align them.

To solve this problem, you can use a hydraulic level. You must first set up one of the piles so that it serves as a control. A mark is applied to it, which will be transferred to the rest of the piles. One part of the level is applied to the control point, and the second to the opposite corner pile. Once the water inside the level has stopped fluctuating, you can apply a mark.

To transfer the markings to the remaining piles, there is no need to approach them with a level. It is necessary to stretch the fishing line between the outer piles so that it touches the intermediate supports. After this, a mark is made on the fishing line. The supports are trimmed according to the marks. Next, a metal square with a side of 25 cm is welded onto them. It is necessary to hold the lower frame of the building.

Next, the strapping for the bath is performed. For this you will need wooden beam with a size of 15x15 cm. It is laid on prepared sites on stilts for a frame bath. The photo above shows how the individual elements are connected at the corners. It is necessary to make a slot for half the thickness of the beam, and also cut out a part that will be equal to its width. The result is a recess with a size of 15x15 cm. The same procedure is repeated for the second log. After this, they are connected to each other and fastened.

The photo above shows how to proceed with the strapping for the partitions. A similar recess is made, but in the middle of the beam. After this, the second part is placed on top and fixed. The result should look something like the one shown in the photo below.

Waterproofing is laid between the metal platform and the timber. The diagonals must be checked to ensure that the walls of the frame bath are even. If the beam for the foundation of the bathhouse has to be increased, then this is done using the same method as connecting two elements and always on a pile so that there is the required stop.

After assembling the trim, SIP panels are laid, which will act as an insulated subfloor. The panels are screwed to the sauna frame with self-tapping screws; this is done for temporary fixation. The panels sag quite easily under weight, so they need to be reinforced with a beam, as shown in the photo below.

In order for the beam to be well fixed in the SIP panel, polyurethane foam must be applied to the joint. A gap of 5 mm is left between the individual panels, which acts as a thermal seam.

Wall assembly

The next stage in the construction of a frame bath will be the assembly of the walls. For these purposes you will need edged board with a size of 15x5 cm. The structure is assembled from it, as shown in the photo below.

The distance between the individual vertical posts is equal to the width of the insulation that will be used for the bath. When the assembly is completed, the wall frame for the bathhouse is installed. Individual elements are temporarily secured with jibs, as can be seen in the photo below.

The finished design looks similar to the one shown in the photo below.

It is worth noting that the places where window and door openings will be located are additionally reinforced with vertical and horizontal struts.

Roof

An excellent solution for a bathhouse would be a device pitched roof. Its equipment is somewhat cheaper and also simpler than a gable one. In the photo below you can see that the rafter system has three support points.

The rafter legs are located in increments of 60 cm from each other and are fixed to the upper elements of the wall. To achieve the required roof slope, it is necessary to calculate in advance the height of all walls so that an angle is formed between them. The roof slope angle for a bathhouse is determined individually for each project. Much depends on the meteorological conditions in a particular area, as well as the type of flooring chosen. If it is metal tiles, then the minimum slope should be 16 degrees.

In the photo above you can see that the front wall had to be raised a little. To increase its strength, jibs were installed on the sides. Roof overhangs are made at the front and back so that water flows down unhindered. Waterproofing, control sheathing and sheathing under roofing decking and the roofing itself. A video about the construction of such a bath can be seen below.

Insulation and finishing

Due to the fact that SIP panels are laid on the floor, it does not require insulation. Floor finishing is carried out at the request of the owner. A heated floor can be installed on it and a screed can be poured on top or a laminate can be laid. Walls require a special approach to insulation. First of all outside The walls of the bathhouse are waterproofed so that water does not get on the insulation.

Insulation is installed in the prepared gaps that were left between the racks in the walls of the bathhouse. Great option there will be a bathhouse mineral wool. It has a certain vapor permeability, which will facilitate partial air exchange between the bathhouse and the street. The insulation should be inserted with little force so that it is well fixed inside. After the insulation has been installed, vapor barrier of the bathhouse premises is performed. For a steam room in a bathhouse you will need thick foil, as shown in the photo below.

The inside of the bathhouse walls can be trimmed with clapboard, but the outside will look better as a block house.

Installation of both the first and second versions of the bathhouse material is carried out on a wooden crate. After the cladding, the bathhouse is arranged. A stove is installed in the steam room, and interior doors are installed. If the bathhouse will be used all year round, then you should think about an autonomous heating system. Additionally, you can build a small terrace where you can spend time with friends.

Summary

As you can see, building a frame bath has its own difficulties. Some stages of constructing a frame bath cannot be completed without the help of a partner. An important step construction is the supply of various communications. These include water, sewer and electricity. All wires inside a frame bath must be double-braided and laid with non-flammable corrugation. Moisture-resistant lamps are used for the steam room in the bathhouse. To keep electricity consumption in the bathhouse to a minimum, you can consider using LED lamps. As windows for a bathhouse, you can use metal-plastic frames with a wood finish. They will cost a little more, but will look quite harmonious.

Next, we prepare the main material. Be sure to make sure the boards are well dried. To build a frame bathhouse, we can advise you: birch, larch, aspen or linden.

And so, we need:

• formwork 30 cm wide and 50 cm up;
• metal rods for strapping;
• solution;
• block with a section of 10 by 10;
• sand with gravel.

Let's start by digging a trench, the depth of which should be approximately 50 centimeters and the width about 40. Now we fill the foundation and insert into it the reinforcement on which it will be attached. You can start tying only after the concrete has completely hardened. Next, we build intermediate slats along the walls. After the walls, we lay out the floor. By the way, it will be very good if the outside walls are covered with clapboard. After everything, we build a hood and cover the roof.

1. Firstly, use it when building a bathhouse. On the one hand, this will allow your bath to retain heat longer, and on the other, it will create some semblance of tightness and prevent moisture from entering. Fiberglass or cotton wool are best for this;
2. Secondly, do it. This will eliminate the formation of condensation and extend the life of the wood. For this, you can recommend roofing felt, film or glassine;
3. And thirdly, on dense soils you can use simple foundation options, for example, a pile foundation.

Now that we have prepared everything required material and we roughly understand what lies ahead, we can begin the actual construction.

Frame bath construction technology

Also, we can add an extension to our bathhouse measuring 4x1.8 m. A shallow columnar foundation will do for it. After erecting the foundation, we make a base of boards, placing them on the end to eliminate possible deflections.

Next, we assemble the frame of the side structure, which consists of vertical supports and an upper cross member - it will take on the main load of the terrace roof. We attach the frame to the base anchor bolts. We make connections between it and the bathhouse and cover it with lathing. We lay roofing material on top, you can also put slate or any other roofing material on top of it.

All the same construction stages are relevant for a 6x6 frame bathhouse, with the exception of some nuances. For example, foundation racks are installed in increments equal to the width of the insulation slabs you have chosen. The base trim is made from antiseptic-treated 100x100 mm timber and is mounted around the perimeter of the building, fastened together with staples and nails. We install supports from the same timber on them, which we then tie around the top with 50x150 mm boards.

The floor in a 6x6 frame bath is laid out according to the traditional pattern.

That's it, our sauna is ready - you can go take a steam bath! Building a frame bathhouse with your own hands can take anywhere from several days to a month, it all depends on how much time you will allocate for its construction.