Ceramic tiles on wooden floors. How to lay tiles on a wooden floor - Laying technology

The service life of the floor covering and the quality of its installation are largely determined by the correct preparation of the base. This is especially true for ceramic tiles.

According to the recommendations of professional finishers, the base for the cladding can only be an ideal, flat surface that can withstand the weight of the coating and at the same time maintain its own stable position.

Therefore, many people don’t even think about how to lay tiles on wooden floor, confident that this is impossible. However, laying tiles on a wooden base is quite possible. Let's consider all the intricacies of this process.

The main obstacle to such a combination is considered to be the instability of the wood base. Due to its characteristics, wood tends to swell from excess moisture and shrink from lack of it.

A wooden floor may well become good reason for laying ceramic tiles. You just need to prepare it correctly

In addition, a new wooden floor settles and “falls” into place about one and a half to two years after installation. But even after this period, all sorts of movements of the base made of wood are quite possible.

All this has an extremely adverse effect on the solidity of the base for the cladding, in which the structural connections are disrupted. As a result, the tiles begin to peel off and crack.

But that's not all. Experienced finishers will name several more reasons why you should not lay tiles on wood:

• Wood covered with waterproof ceramics is deprived of the ability to “breathe,” which leads to its rotting and gradual destruction.
• The service life of boards and timber is much shorter than that of tiles.
• The tree belongs to warm materials, while tiles are cold, so wooden floors are more pleasant for people.

If all the arguments seem unconvincing and you have a firm decision to lay tiles on wood, you need to understand that you will have to create a kind of damper layer that will absorb all the movements of the wooden elements.

The elastic part will be turned towards the wood, and on the hard part outside the tile will be located. Only in this case can high-quality cladding be performed.

Inspection of the foundation is an integral part of the preparatory work. Even if the old floor does not creak or move, it must be opened before laying tiles

Inspection of the wooden base

Before you get down to work, you need to find out exactly how old the floor on which you plan to lay the tiles is. If it is less than two, there is no point in starting, since the period of intensive wood shrinkage has not yet ended.

It is unrealistic to install high-quality cladding on such a base. If the shrinkage is completed successfully, you can begin to work.

At the same time, you need to understand that the floor has served for a certain number of years, so a competent inspection is necessary to assess the condition of the coating.

A wood floor is like a multi-layered lumber sandwich, so even if it looks like new and doesn't squeak or wobble, the floorboards will still have to be removed.

This is necessary to assess the condition of the constituent elements of the coating. Let's start with beams and joists. We carefully inspect all the details, meticulously discarding all elements that begin to rot and deteriorate. They will have to be replaced with new ones.

One more thing. If the logs are laid in increments of more than half a meter, they must be dismantled and laid again. Otherwise the floor will not support the weight ceramic cladding and screeds.

The parts prepared in this way are carefully leveled using a level. They must be positioned strictly horizontally. Then we generously coat the joists and beams with a special antiseptic impregnation.

We do not fill the cavities completely, leaving a gap for ventilation. It should be located between the heat insulator and the top line of the joist. The gap is about 10 mm.

Be sure to measure the distance between the lags. If it is more than 50 cm, we dismantle the structure and lay it again. Otherwise, the floors will not cope with the weight of the screed and ceramic cladding

Preparing the base

Previously used wooden floorboards must be prepared for re-installation. Now they will act as a subfloor, on top of which the tiles will be laid.

First of all, you need to remove them old paint. You can do this in several ways:

• Mechanical. Cooking wire brush or coarse sandpaper and wipe off the paint. A labor-intensive and very dusty method.
• Chemical. It is supposed to use special removers that dissolve varnish and paint. Strict adherence to all recommendations of the composition manufacturer is required.
• Thermal. The floor surface is heated using a hair dryer. The paint layer becomes soft and is removed with a spatula.

The floorboards prepared in this way are ready for re-laying. We lay them on the logs, leaving gaps of 3-5 mm between the parts, which are necessary to ensure possible expansion of the wooden floor.

It is best to use galvanized self-tapping screws to attach floorboards. We install two self-tapping screws in each outer joist, and one in the row. Sand the base and, if necessary, level it using a sanding machine.

We make sure that there are no defects on the floorboards, such as holes from knots or old fasteners. If any flaws are found, carefully fill them with putty.

The technological gap located between the wall and the subfloor must be closed with a special damper tape. Instructions for gluing it are on the packaging of the material.

We leave a technical gap of 1 cm around the perimeter of the subfloor. It needs to be glued with a special polymer membrane, which is available in the form of a tape.

To do this, bend the plastic strip in half, glue one half to the floor, and the second to the bottom edge of the wall. All we have to do is form an insulating monolithic layer. There are two ways to do this.

First: generously coat the floorboards with a special latex impregnation or heated drying oil.

Second: we lay special parchment paper or its waxed or bitumen roll equivalent.

In the first case, without waiting for the composition to dry, we completely cover the base with a painting net.

Screed arrangement

We lay the screed on the prepared base. It can be done in three ways.

Method #1: Dry leveling

The most common and simplest solution. It consists of forming a flat surface from moisture-resistant plywood or a material similar in characteristics to it, on top of which tiles can be laid. Various methods can be used for dry leveling:

• Construction of a system of joists or point supports on top of plank flooring. Covered sheet material.
• Laying a finished adjustable floor with screw supports under plywood sheets.
• Fastening gypsum board, plywood or OSB boards cut into quarters to leveled floorboards. This is done using self-tapping screws.
• Laying a duplicate layer of plywood on a previously made plywood substrate.

These are just a few of the many possible options. You need to understand that the last leveling layer should be plywood or its equivalent in the form of one of the varieties of particle board.

The final stage of forming a dry screed will be sanding the plywood base along the seams and filling the joints with sealant. After which the base is primed with a composition compatible with the adhesive.

To glue ceramic tiles you need to choose a two-component polyurethane glue, which is particularly elastic. This is necessary to ensure small linear movements, which are characteristic of wood-based panels.

To make your work easier, you can purchase a ready-made adjustable floor with screw plastic supports. It assembles very quickly and perfectly levels the surface.

Method #2: Lightweight “wet” screed

It differs from traditional tile screed in its small thickness, which is explained by insufficient bearing capacity wooden floors. They simply will not withstand the weight of a full-fledged leveling layer.

The second feature of such a screed is complete cutting off from the walls and underlying foundation. The base is made according to the principle of a floating floor with a mandatory deformation gap located along the entire perimeter and around all communications crossing the floor.

So everything wooden elements can “play”, while the cladding lying on a monolithic base will not feel any movement.

The standard thickness of a lightweight screed is considered to be 30 mm. Increasing it is quite dangerous, since the weight of the leveling coating will be greater, which is undesirable for wooden floors. There is also no need to reduce the thickness of the screed, otherwise it will not be reliable enough.

Minor deviations in the direction of increasing or decreasing the thickness of the coating are allowed. The base can be arranged in two main ways:

• Standard cement strainer, consisting of a mixture of sand, cement and plasticizer.
• Polymer screed, it contains liquid glass and KS glue or polyurethane two-component adhesive. The mixture can be replaced with a homemade solution, which includes two parts of liquid glass, two parts of clean sifted coarse sand and one part of water.

The screed poured onto a wooden base must be lightweight, otherwise the ceilings will not withstand its weight. The thickness of the solution layer should not exceed 3 cm

Regardless of the composition of the screed, it is poured as follows:

• We fix a metal mesh on top of the waterproofing layer installed on the subfloor using self-tapping screws.
• Fill the screed, pull it out in the usual way and level it out.
• Leave until the solution dries completely.
• Treat with any primer compatible with tile adhesive.

Method #3: Express method

The main advantage of this method of arranging the base for tiles is the speed of its implementation. Its essence lies in gluing sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard to the prepared rough flooring.

For work, an elastic polyurethane two-component adhesive is usually used. If the hardness of the floor is not satisfactory, craftsmen recommend laying a second layer of moisture-resistant material. In this case, you need to lay the sheets so that the seams of the bottom and top rows do not coincide.

When working with particle boards, plywood or plasterboard, do not forget to fill the joints of the sheets with sealant

All joints between the plates should be filled with sealant, and then the base should be treated with a primer compatible with tile adhesive.

It is important to remember that the plasterboard base must be made according to the principle of a floating floor. That is, there is always a technological gap along the entire perimeter of the base. After laying the tile, it is filled with sealant and covered with plinth. This is necessary to prevent moisture from getting under the cladding, which could destroy the coating.

All three methods described above for arranging a base for tiles - general recommendations, requiring certain modifications taking into account the technical specifics of the object.

In fact, there are many more variations on this theme. It is important to understand that the master is required to build a kind of stationary “tray” lying on a moving wooden base.

It is necessary that the rigid base for the tile does not interfere with the wood’s ability to “breathe” calmly and move as needed. At the same time, the rough wooden floor should not influence the screed with tiles, otherwise it will inevitably destroy it.

Facing the prepared base is carried out according to the following scheme:

• We are doing a fitting. We try to ensure that the trimming is on the periphery of the room or in its shaded areas. Therefore, we begin the preliminary layout in the central zone, where the lighting is maximum. At the end of the procedure, we determine the number of tiles that will have to be cut and prepare them in advance.
• We mark the floor in the room. Find the center using the intersection of diagonals. Then we divide the room into four segments.
• Prepare the adhesive composition. At the same time, we strictly follow the recommendations of the mixture manufacturer. Considering that the solution dries quickly, we prepare it no more than what is needed for facing one square meter floor.
• Prepare the spatula-comb. This is the name of the toothed tool with which the mortar is applied to the tiles. The size of its teeth depends on the size of the ceramic lining. For large plates we choose a spatula with 0.8 mm teeth, for small ones - smaller teeth.
• We glue the tiles. We apply adhesive to the base, take the part and precisely place it in the right place. We insert special plastic crosses between the cladding plates so that the seams between the tiles are even.
• We control the installation. We regularly apply a building level to the laid row of cladding, checking the horizontal and vertical. It will be possible to correct the shortcomings only until the composition sets. The “wet” solution makes it possible to slightly move the tiles, correcting the direction. If the lining “sinks”, carefully remove it, add solution and put it in place.
• We lay all the intact tiles, then proceed to laying the prepared trim.
• We wait until the glue dries.
• We wet the tile seams and rub them with a special compound. Experts recommend using silicone elastic grout for this purpose.

When gluing tiles to plywood or drywall, it is best to use a two-component polyurethane adhesive, while when working with screed, you can use a cement-based adhesive

As practice shows, laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor is quite possible. The main thing is to take into account the specifics wooden base and properly prepare it for further work. It is important to follow all the recommendations exactly and not forget about creating an insulating layer.

A properly laid coating will protect the wood from damage and rotting, while the tiles will not crack or collapse. This will allow the cladding to last a long time and save the owner of the premises from unplanned repair costs.

More and more often you can see tiles as flooring not only in the kitchen or bathroom, but also in other rooms. Sometimes it becomes necessary to lay the material on old surface, and the question arises of how to properly lay tiles on a wooden floor. About everyone possible nuances You will learn this process in our article.

Previously, this approach to laying ceramic tiles in the house was not recommended for the reason that the wooden surface was considered not rigid and hard enough. Due to an unreliable foundation, the structure can become mobile, and the concrete screed laid on top can quickly deform and the tiles fall off. In addition, the wooden boards themselves are susceptible to rotting. However modern technologies and materials allow us to solve the above problems, making laying tiles on a wooden floor possible. The basis of this process is proper preparation wooden base.

Surface preparation

The preparation of a wooden floor for tiles begins with the elimination of defects on the surface. This will help make the floor harder and more durable. The durability of the new one will depend on the reliability of the old coating. To achieve the expected result, you need to follow several steps.

• First of all, we remove the boards. If they do not have significant damage, we leave them for the base. At this stage, the main thing is to open full access to the lags.
• Next, we examine the logs for evenness using building level. Leveling if necessary: ​​this is very important to obtain a level surface.
• Between the walls and joists we leave a free space of 1 cm and, using polyurethane foam, waterproof it.
• To obtain additional heat and sound insulation, we fill the space between the joists with expanded clay.

• If the previously removed boards have good quality, you need to put them back. You can also lay moisture-resistant plywood up to 12 mm thick, which will not sag under the weight of ceramic tiles.
• To prevent rotting and mold from appearing on the joists and main floor, we treat them with appropriate protective agents.
• When attaching boards or plywood to the joists, small gaps (about 5 mm) should be left between them to ensure ventilation of the wooden material.
• To protect the base from moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydro- and vapor barrier on the subfloor. It can be polyethylene, parchment or bitumen paper.

Base structure

There are several ways to create a base for laying tiles on a wooden floor. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

• Filling the floor concrete screed. In this option, the installation of the screed has the same principle as when creating a simple floor, it differs only in greater lightness and less thickness. To do this, you need to put a metal mesh on top of the waterproofing layer and attach it with screws to subfloor. Next, we set the beacons according to the level and fill the screed with a layer of 3 mm.

• We strengthen the floor with polyurethane two-component glue or a composition based on liquid glass. Experts advise using this method when using a low-quality base. If the wooden floor begins to rot and deform, the glue will prevent the ceramic tiles from cracking. However, it is difficult to say that such compositions are effective, because they are not yet widespread enough.

• We lay sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard (GKLV) on the waterproofing, cement particle boards(DSP) or gypsum fiber sheets (GVL). The last option is the most optimal, since GVL sheets have a lower cost than DSP and have greater elasticity than plasterboard. This material, in addition, has sound and thermal insulation properties, and when using special impregnation it also becomes moisture resistant.

The sheets must be secured to the subfloor with self-tapping screws. In this case, you should pay attention to the fact that the joints of the sheets pass over the boards and not between the cracks. After fastening with self-tapping screws, glue the seams special glue. If the rigidity of the resulting floor seems insufficient, it is better to lay another layer. When installation is completed, the sheets are covered with primer deep penetration. You can start laying tiles only after the soil has dried.

Tile laying process

Before starting work, you need to check the surface level. You can start laying tiles with your own hands only if there are no significant deviations. Laying tiles on a wooden floor is carried out in several stages:

• tile preparation;
• creating a laying scheme on the floor;
• mixing the adhesive composition;
• laying tiles;
• sealing seams.

To complete these steps you will need the following tools:

• notched spatula;
• rubber spatula;
• rubber hammer;
• tile cutter or glass cutter;
• two containers for composition and glue;
• building level;
• marking cord;
• roulette.

And to protect your hands while working with glue, it is better to use gloves.

First you need to calculate the number of tiles that will need to be laid on a wooden floor. To do this, you need to divide the area of ​​the room by the area of ​​one tile. Taking into account the possibility of pruning and the spoilage factor, we add 10% to the final result. When buying tiles, do not confuse floor and wall tiles, as they look very similar, but have different properties. Floor tiles undergoes additional processing, making it more durable and less slippery.

Now you need to lay the tiles over the entire floor area to analyze its quality and appearance. Immediately make the corresponding holes in the tiles that will need to be placed near the pipes.

We check the possibility of opening doors with a new level, which will be obtained after installing the material on a wooden floor. If opening the doors becomes problematic, remove them from their hinges and trim the lower part.

Next, you need to put the tile in water for 20 minutes to displace the water from it. If dark spots form on the surface of the material, it is not necessary to soak it in water. In this case, just wipe inner side ceramic tiles with a damp brush.

We divide the wooden floor into 4 rectangular sections. To do this, using a coated cord, we draw lines between opposite walls so that they intersect in the center of the room. Based on the resulting lines, we lay the tiles in such a way as to minimize the number of cut tiles near the walls.

At diagonal laying There will be significantly more cutting tiles for the floor. If you lay a whole tile along the wall, then you need to start work from the opposite to front door corner. The window line should be parallel to the tile line. On the axes, the rows must be placed perpendicular to each other. The width of the joints is determined when installing crosses between the tiles.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor is done using a special cement adhesive. To create it, you need to mix the dry mixture with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer. To improve adhesion to tiles, you can add 10% plasticizers to the solution. Considering that the mixture dries in just a few hours, the composition should be prepared in small portions. It is recommended to mix with a construction mixer.

Apply the composition to the surface with a notched trowel in even stripes, starting from any corner of the room. You should choose a spatula depending on the size of the tile. The glue should be applied to an area of ​​no more than one square meter, since it dries on the surface in just 15 minutes.

Laying tiles

Place the tile on the surface with the applied adhesive composition. Press it tightly and tap it with a rubber hammer. We cover the prepared area and move on to the next one until we finish the entire surface.

To maintain the same distance between the tiles, you can use plastic spacers. Don't forget to constantly check the level laid tiles, since after 10 minutes the glue will dry and it will be impossible to correct the position of the tiles with your own hands. After installation, all that remains is to give the surface a finished look by sealing the seams.

If you still have questions about whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor, watch the training video where you will get tips on how to properly perform the installation technology.

The process of laying tiles over wood floors has changed a lot in recent decades. If earlier tiles on top of wood were laid on cement mixed with sand, and such a mixture put a lot of stress on the wood base, today everything has become simpler. Here step by step sequence works at different options foundation conditions. The quality of the foundation determines the volume of work and, of course, its cost.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor - diagram

Case 1: If the wooden floor is in good condition

We inspect and treat the surface for the tiles - the base must be rigid. We check the boards, fix the floor, eliminating squeaks. We treat the surface with a sanitary composition against mold.

We lay a waterproofing layer: PVC film or roofing felt with bitumen.

The prepared surface is covered with sheets of gypsum fiber. They are screwed to the floor with self-tapping screws. Next, directly laying the ceramics on the gypsum plasterboard. Drywall must be moisture resistant. You need to lay it staggered, then press it with screws around the perimeter, step 15 cm.

We glue the GVL at the joints with special glue, drill random holes for ventilation, prime the GVL (deep penetration primer) and let it dry.

Apply glue suitable for working with drywall to the finished surface and lay the tiles as on a regular surface.

Laying tiles: prepare tools, mix dry glue mixture. Now you need to select the most illuminated corner and apply it to small area glue. Lay the tile on top, not forgetting the crosses, and press it tightly to the surface. Tap the tiles with a rubber mallet to release excess adhesive. Check with a level that the installation is horizontal. After completing the work, wipe the ceramic coating from glue. The seams are rubbed down after a couple of days, when the solution has dried. The crosses are first removed.

Case 2. How to lay tiles if there are only logs and the floor is rotten

If the floor is rotten or the boards are worn out, you need to replace them and then install ceramics.

Remove the old top layer (linoleum, parquet board etc.), remove the middle layer - chipboard (there may also be DSP/plywood, this means any covering), then use a nail puller to remove the board surface, which is attached directly to the joists.

We check the load-bearing bars for integrity, cover them with a moisture-proofing compound, and set them according to the level. We lay a waterproofing layer (film, coating) between the joists, leaving allowances.

On the covering between the logs we pour expanded clay in a layer, equal to height lag, screw it on top of the board. This guarantees warmth and good sound insulation.

We attach the boards with self-tapping screws across the bars, being sure to remember the gaps, on average, 5-10mm. Then we foam the cracks at the joints. We cover the base with a hydrosubstrate, lay GVL, and then everything is as in the first case.

Case 3. Screed instead of old wooden floor

This is the most expensive option for preparing the base for tiles - more details here - floor screed with expanded clay. If it is possible to make a screed to replace the previous coating that has become unusable, then the sequence of actions is as follows:

We dismantle old materials right down to the cement. We coat the joints of the walls and ceilings, covering them with sand-cement mortar.

We mark out the space, placing “beacons”, and prime the concrete.

fill the space to the very top of the beacons with a screed (this can be pure concrete, a sand-cement mixture is also used in the proportion: 1 to 3). One batch from 15 l.

in the case where the screed is planned to be thick, expanded clay is backfilled between the layers (the height can reach up to two-thirds of the level indicated by the beacons). After a day and a half, clean the base so that the expanded clay on the surface does not interfere, and fill it again.

after 3 days, you need to prime the screed or use a self-leveling solution.

Case 4. There is chipboard on the board base, the floor surface can be used

Chipboard can become a base for tiles if it is treated. For this:

We foam the joint points where the wall and the DS-slab meet.

The top of the slab needs to be oiled or impregnated twice with a special compound.

We treat the DS-slab with latex sealant, fix the painting mesh there, and let it dry. Then we secure the mesh with self-tapping screws, ensuring a tight fit to the DC plate.

You need to cover the mesh with the following composition: part water + a couple parts sand and a couple parts liquid glass.

This is followed by the usual ceramic laying.

Tiled flooring for the kitchen and bathroom is practical and durable, but is it possible to lay tiles on existing wooden floors without resorting to large-scale construction work? The answer will be yes. In this article we will study in detail all the nuances of the “cooperation” of such different materials.

According to its characteristics wood coverings at first glance they are completely incompatible with tiles. Wood is not static during use. Even floors made from well-dried and treated boards still shrink within 2-3 years.

Daily temperature and atmospheric fluctuations lead to the fact that the surface “plays” - sometimes expanding, sometimes shrinking. These processes go unnoticed by humans, which cannot be said about tiles: they can peel off, crumble, and literally burst at the seams.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to study the reasons influencing the deformation. ceramic coating and eliminate them if possible.

The main factor in the stability of tile coverings

When laying tiles, pay great attention to preparatory work. The aesthetic appearance of the finished coating and its further performance characteristics depend on how well the surface is prepared and leveled.

We have already found out that wood is not a static material, therefore our main task is to create a universal surface that will be the basis for installation. This base should “reconcile” two different coatings, then the main factor of stability of the tiled coating will be respected - staticity and strength.

Advice! You cannot lay tiles on “fresh” floors - the shrinkage period is at least 2-3 years from the time of installation.

Preparatory work: we check and

Before you create a stable base for the tiles, you need to inspect your wood flooring. Then create from existing ones and additional materials, a multi-layer cake that will preserve the solidity of the floor covering will provide wooden parts ventilation of the structure and will minimize the load on the wood.

Important! We cannot do without dismantling the wooden structure. Regardless external state top boards, they must be removed and damaged elements replaced. If necessary, shorten the laying step of the joists and level them horizontally using a level. Antiseptic treatment of all wooden structures is mandatory.

Stages of work

Step #1. We remove the wooden covering, having previously cleared it of paint and varnish treatment.

Important! If the condition of the boards is poor, skip this step; they are still unsuitable for further use.

There are three ways to speed up the process: chemical, thermal and mechanical. They are all quite time-consuming, so choose the one that is acceptable to you.

1. The chemical method involves treating floors with a special reagent that dissolves varnish or paint.
2. Thermal method - heating the surface construction hairdryer. After that paintwork removed with a spatula.
3. The mechanical method of removing varnish or paint is done using a power tool: an angle grinder with a special attachment, and then grinder or simply sandpaper the surface is sanded.

Step #2. We check the condition of the beams and joists.

Replacement of damaged elements is mandatory. After this, horizontal alignment is carried out.

Step #3. Antiseptic treatment.

Do not spare money on this procedure - good antifungal products are not cheap. It is necessary to process strictly according to the instructions, observing the time interval and the number of coatings. Perform the next step only after complete drying.

Step #4. Insulation with expanded clay.

Expanded clay should be taken in small fractions. The entire space between the joists is filled. For natural ventilation a gap of 5 cm is left (the distance from the bottom of the joists to the insulation).

Indicators	10-20 mm	5-10 mm	0-5 mm
Bulk density, kg/m3	280-370	300-400	500-700
Crushing strength, N/mm2 (MPa)	1-1,8	1,2-2	3-4
Grading, %	4	8	0
Frost resistance 20 cycles, gravel weight loss, %	0,4-2	0,2-1,2	not regulated
Percentage of crushed particles, %	3-10	3-10	No
Thermal conductivity, W/m*K	0,0912	0,0912	0,1099
Water absorption, mm	250	250	290
Specific effective activity of natural radionuclides, Bq/kg	270	270	290

Step #5. Laying the rough covering.

If batten V good condition, then you can use it as a rough coating. We secure it with galvanized screws and putty. You need to leave a 1 cm gap around the perimeter, which is filled with polyurethane foam.

When the board is unsuitable for further use, then the role of a rough base will be performed by moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard treated with a special impregnation. The sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern, the technological gaps are treated with foam.

Now you need to create another layer of “sandwich” - a strong and stable surface on which the tile will be directly glued. There are three ways to create a base:

• Express method;
• “Dry” leveling method;
• Cement-concrete screed or “wet” method.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's look at them in detail.

Express method of surface preparation

This method is best used on wood floors that are in good condition or have minor defects.

You will need sheets of moisture-resistant drywall, which will be attached with self-tapping screws to the rough boards in two rows. You can glue gypsum fiber board to wood using polyurethane glue. His two-component composition it is strong enough, so the glued sheets will practically not be affected by the wood.

Main advantages:

• quick and cheap installation of the structure;
• good resistance to temperature fluctuations of wood.

Important! At the stage of preparatory work described in the corresponding section, when leveling the surface using the express method, you do not need to fill in the insulation. This will significantly reduce the time it takes to complete the work and reduce its cost.

Main stages.

“Dry” method of surface leveling

The key objective of the method is to create the most stable sublayer of moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard, OSB. These materials are from wood waste more static than wood, thanks to the binding components used in manufacturing.

Advantages:

• increasing insulating properties due to laying an additional layer of insulation;
• execution time is significantly reduced due to the absence of work requiring technological waiting.

Flaws:

• This method of leveling the surface involves raising the height of the floor, which is undesirable in rooms with initially low ceilings.

If the height of the ceiling allows you to use this method, then keep in mind that the difference between the leveled and unfinished surface will be visible. You can visually hide this nuance by installing a small step or threshold.

Step-by-step instruction

First stage. Laying the insulating layer.

After treating the floorboards with latex impregnations, a painting mesh is laid and attached to them. Along the perimeter of the room it is fixed with an overlap to a height slightly higher than the level of the future screed, and is secured on top with a wide edge tape.

Second phase. Adding dry mixture.

The dry leveling mixture consists of fine expanded clay, expanded clay sand and other additives. The mixture must be thoroughly and evenly distributed over the surface.

Third stage. Laying sheets of particleboard or plywood.

The material is laid in two rows using the “brickwork” method: the seams between the sheets should not coincide.

Fourth stage. Sanding and priming.

Plywood sheets or others wood boards Be sure to sand along the seams. The joints are filled with sealant and covered with a layer of primer.

"Wet" leveling method

The method of leveling the surface using the “wet” method is similar to the usual preparation of screed before laying tiles. The difference is that the layer of leveling mixture is much smaller than usual, since the load on wooden coverings is limited by their characteristics.

Self-leveling polymer or cement-sand mixtures. Choose products from trusted manufacturers so that the performance characteristics of your floor do not deteriorate.

Advantage: with this leveling method you will get a “floating” screed that will be resistant to the “vagaries” of wooden structures.

Basic flaws– this means increased labor costs and an increase in floor height. The financial component of the issue is higher than in previous methods.

Stages of work.

Step #1. Strengthening a wooden structure.

If the distance between the lags is more than 500 mm, then the preparatory work will include, in addition to inspection and replacement of damaged parts, strengthening the structure with additional wooden beams.

Step No. 2. Install the intermediate flooring from the floorboard.

For this, you can use used boards if their strength leaves no doubt and their thickness is at least 40 mm. The boards are attached to the joists with a gap for ventilation (10 mm).

Step No. 3. Installation of the main flooring.

Chipboards or plywood are attached perpendicularly to the rough boards. The thickness of the material must be at least 12 mm. The installation method is “brickwork” with gaps between the slabs of 2 - 3 mm.

Step No. 4. Waterproofing.

We create a good insulating layer from paper, oiled or impregnated with paraffin, thick polyethylene film. It is necessary to carefully lay out the entire floor surface, as well as the perimeter of the room to a wall height of 10 cm and above. The material is overlapped and carefully fastened double-sided tape. A wide insulating tape is glued around the perimeter.

Waterproofing the floor with film

Step No. 4. Fill in the self-leveling mixture. The layer thickness should not exceed 10 mm.

Prepare the mixture according to the instructions on the package. Distribute by floor. After the composition has hardened, you can begin gluing the tiles.

Some builders, in order to save money, have gotten into the habit of making floor levelers themselves. To prepare it, purified sand and liquid glass are used in a 2:2 ratio. The mixture is brought to the desired consistency with purified water.

Name. Short description	Packaging kg	Consumption kg/mm/m2	Price	Strength MPa	Layer thickness in mm
ALFAPOL VP - finishing self-leveling self-leveling floor M200 F200 Pk5 W12 on a cement base	25	1,75	375-471	20	2-40
REAL Floor leveler, High quality dry mortar cement based	25	1,7	360	20	2-80
Bergauf BODEN ZEMENT MEDIUM, self-leveling floor for the final leveling of horizontal surfaces, ideal for further installation of any floor coverings(ceramic tiles, parquet, carpet, linoleum)	25	2	289-324	20	6-60
Forbo Eurobond 915, fast-hardening self-leveling floor, low shrinkage, self-leveling, quick-drying. Suitable for heated floors. For indoor use, incl. in damp areas. Withstands the load from furniture on casters.	25	1,7	405	20	3-50
Petromix PS, for leveling floors on concrete and other hard substrates in dry, damp and damp areas. Serves as a base for floor coverings (parquet, ceramic tile, textile carpets, plastic coverings, linoleum, etc.)	25	1,5	441-471	25	2-30
The foundation will be T-42 Nipline, a self-leveling, high-strength, moisture-resistant, non-shrinking leveler on a cement-sand base using special chemical additives.	25	1,7	342-433	25	3-30
Ceresit CN 178, for the manufacture of screeds operating under conditions of low and moderate mechanical loads, incl. with constant exposure to moisture (in residential and public premises, on exploited roofs, balconies, terraces, open areas, etc.), with external and internal works, in civil and industrial construction.	25	2	370	35	5-80
Vetonit 4100 cement-based mixture for leveling concrete floors indoors	25	1,6	520-537	20	2-30
vetonit 4150, suitable for quickly leveling concrete floors and creating screeds in residential buildings, offices and public buildings. Suitable for renovation and new construction different kinds floor coverings. Used in “Warm Floor” designs	25	1,6	520-550	20	2-30
Berghauf BODEN ZEMENT FINAL, a self-leveling cement-based floor for perfect smooth surfaces. For rooms with normal and high humidity(bathroom).	25	1,8	435-490	20 If you are short on funds, then the last installation method is the most economical and advantageous in terms of pruning. Important! Before gluing, you need to try on dry masonry - this will help you choose the best way styling Installation process step by step Now you know that laying tiles on a wooden floor is a doable task, but whether it’s worth the effort is up to you to decide. Video - How to lay tiles on a wooden floor Video - Laying tiles on a wooden base

It is believed that a wooden floor is not a suitable base for laying tiles. But in this article we will dispel this myth and tell you in detail how to do everything correctly and reliably. We'll show you how to lay tiles on a wood floor using plywood as a leveler and stabilizer.

Also, if you are dealing with wooden floors, you need to use a special tile adhesive. But more on this later in the article..

So is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

Experienced tilers will most likely say that laying tiles on wooden surface- bad idea. This point of view is very common and generally correct. But, as you know: “if you really want to, then you can.”

This is due to the fact that wood is an unstable material. It changes its properties with changes in temperature and humidity, and can expand or contract. This will cause the surface to move. The tiles are hard finishing material, and the base for it must remain stationary. If the floor in a wooden house “walks”, then the tiles will chip, peel off and collapse over time.

You also need to remember that under a layer of tile adhesive, the wood will not have access to oxygen. This can sometimes cause the wood fibers to rot and break down quickly. Even if you provide adequate underground ventilation and treat the wood with special impregnations, keep in mind that the service life of porcelain tiles is much longer than wooden planks and bars.

Comment from our expert:“In general, I personally am against tiles on a wooden floor. It's not as reliable or durable anyway. I had to deal with this several times - everything seemed to be fine. But in my opinion, it’s easier to remove the wooden floor and make a new “floor pie” with a concrete base. But yes, there are situations when you can take a risk and try to lay it on a tree.

It is clear that sometimes it is either impossible or very expensive to redo the floor. Only in such cases, if you really want to see tiles on a wooden floor, you can try to “stabilize” the floor.”

If for some reason you absolutely need to lay tiles on a wooden floor, there is a technology (or you can say instructions) that will help you avoid the problems described above.

How to do it?

Do correct styling Floor tiles can be applied to a wooden surface in several stages.

Preparing an old wooden floor

Before laying a stabilizing layer of plywood on the floor (more on this later in the article), it is necessary to tidy up the base of the wooden floor. Ideally, there should be 1-2 mm of distance between the boards for ventilation and movement when they dry out. But, if the finished floor is already in place and “pulled together,” you can simply leave gaps between the walls and the floor.

The logs on which the boards lie should run longitudinally and transversely, with intervals of no more than 50 cm.

There must be a layer of waterproofing under the subfloor. In the space between the rough boards and the main floor, you can lay mineral wool for a vapor barrier or fill the empty space with loose insulation.

It is important to leave 5 cm of free space between the main floor and the top of the bulk mixture for ventilation. Also check that the boards are level. Damaged boards and joists must be replaced.

Ideally, it is advisable to disassemble the old wooden floor and treat all its elements separately. Boards and joists need to be sanded and cleaned of old varnish or paint. After this, you need to impregnate all wooden elements with antifungal impregnations.

Only after the impregnation has dried, fill the empty space between the subfloor and the main floor with expanded clay. Don't forget about empty space for ventilation.

Laying plywood or drywall

When the old floor is prepared, waterproofed and insulated, you need to lay two layers of moisture-resistant plywood on it. It must be secured with galvanized self-tapping screws screwed into the joists. Plywood will strengthen the entire structure and eliminate the destructive movement of wood when temperature or humidity changes. Carefully level the plywood sheets and securely fix them.

Advice from our expert:“In general, in this case, I would recommend the scheme: old wooden floor - plywood - cement screed - tiles. But I understand that no one will bother that much. Therefore, we skip the screed element and proceed without it.

Another point: it’s better not to use tiles. It’s better to take porcelain stoneware - it’s stronger, and in such a situation this is critical.”

Can be used instead of plywood moisture resistant drywall (GVL), OSB sheets(OSB), sometimes even chipboard, but plywood is better.

Expert advice:“The plywood must be laid “staggered,” i.e. so that the joints of the top layer do not fall on the first layer. Yes, by the way, instead of plywood, you can lay gypsum fiber board.”

After the moisture-resistant plywood is fixed, it must be treated with a deep penetration primer ( We recommend “betonkontakt”).

It needs to dry for 4 hours to continue further work. A moisture-resistant sealant must be applied around the perimeter.

Tile laying process

When the surface is primed, you can begin laying ceramic tiles.

In our case, classic tile adhesive will not work. You need to use a special polyurethane tile adhesive. It will be more expensive than classic tile adhesive made from dry mixtures, but such adhesive will at least slightly compensate for the mobility of the floor.

Alternatively, you can take glue from the Litikol company. Its cost is 3,500 rubles per 5 kilograms. The height of the glue grooves should be 8-10 mm. It is just suitable for wooden floors and porcelain tiles.

After applying the glue to the plywood, start laying the tiles on it, inserting plastic crosses between them. Be sure to check each tile using a level. After the glue has completely hardened, it is necessary to rub the seams and fill them with fugue.

Our website has separate and detailed articles on these topics.

The tiles can be cut using a grinder. Apply glue using a notched trowel.

Reliability and durability

Even if all the rules are followed, the reliability of such a surface will be much worse than tiles laid on a concrete base. Concrete base much more reliable and durable in all respects. It is easier to lay tiles on it.

In a wooden house, the tiled floor may crack and “peel off” over time.

We understand that there are situations where it is too difficult and expensive to redo a floor. In these cases, you can lay the tiles as we described above.