Fastening eurolining with self-tapping screws. Subtleties of fastening eurolining

When planning to decorate the internal and external surfaces of walls, you can use various materials, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. The easiest to install and not too expensive would be eurolining. It is this material that allows you to create beautiful view surfaces, despite any problems with the wall surfaces that will be completely hidden behind it.

Peculiarities

Eurolining is a more modern variation of the usual wooden lining, but with a number of advantages. The dimensional accuracy of this material is as high as possible, so it is possible to correctly calculate the amount required for the job. Unlike wood, eurolining is not afraid of moisture, and it does not change its properties under its influence. Besides, modern material has much more convenient system fastening, which allows for easy and quick installation.

Eurolining has special grooves on each edge that help this material breathe, especially in climate changeable environments and high humidity. In addition, it is convenient to lay wiring or any wires that need to be hidden in such grooves. In this case, it is very important to carefully check the insulation of all wires that will be placed behind the eurolining.

The advantages of this finishing material can be attributed:

  • stable dimensions of each canvas;
  • preliminary antiseptic treatment surfaces;
  • smooth surface, without significant roughness;
  • a relatively simple method of installation on a wall or ceiling surface.

All this allows you to accurately calculate the amount of material needed to complete the work, the absence of additional strips and a small amount of construction waste.

The material itself is created according to European samples and standards, It has good characteristics for use both indoors and outdoors. The material is environmentally friendly, so it can be used in any room.

You can fasten the eurolining using self-tapping screws, staples, nails, dowels and clamps.

Tools and materials

In order for the process of installing eurolining to be quick and high-quality, you cannot do without a certain set of tools.

Among them must be:

  • perforator;
  • jigsaw, it is better if it is electric;
  • drill;
  • hammer;
  • ruler and level;
  • thread for checking plumb line;
  • self-tapping screws that are suitable for woodworking;
  • clampers.

Using a hammer drill, it will be possible to prepare holes for dowels into which screws will fit when screwing the board. You can use a jigsaw to saw off the necessary pieces of material, especially if there are windows or other non-specific protrusions on the wall. For greater efficiency and faster pace of work, it is better to use a jigsaw.

A drill is needed to mount wooden slats or metal profiles to the wall, into which the eurolining will be driven. You can use a hammer to hammer in dowel nails if they are used in the work, or tap the slats so that they sit completely in place without forming gaps or uneven seams. You need to work with this task carefully so as not to spoil the edges of each slats. A ruler is necessary to draw an even cutting line for the material to minimize inaccuracies. In addition, sometimes you have to cover a wall with windows, switches, etc. additional elements, which need to be bypassed on both sides. Using a level, guides are lined up for the eurolining. The result depends on their evenness finished masonry on the wall.

When part of the lining is installed, you need to check it using a plumb line with a thread, if everything is fine, then you need to continue working, but if there are strong deviations, you need to get rid of them. The fastening of the boards to the guides is done using self-tapping screws. Their size is selected taking into account the thickness of the eurolining and the distance to the wall.

This is not the only fastener that can be used to fix boards; nails, which should be quite thin and have a small head, are well suited for the job.

One of the fastening options is a clamp, which is a small bracket into which the lining is driven. Using a clamp, you can fasten one board to the sheathing and install a second one on top of it, which will fit into the groove of the already fixed part. This fastening turns out to be reliable, because each part is attached to solid foundation. When planning the installation of eurolining, it is best to initially decide on the installation method and purchase only necessary materials. If the procedure is to be performed for the first time, then you can try each of the methods for small area and determine for yourself the most convenient option fastening materials, according to which it will be necessary to select tools.

Installation

Laying eurolining is not a difficult task if you know all the nuances and patterns that you will encounter during the work. In order to new material appeared on the wall and decorated it, and did not spoil it, it is important to do everything without undue haste. Even a beginner can do the work with his own hands, but you need to properly prepare, assemble necessary tools and materials, find basic information on laying lining.

Sheathing with this material can be done both on the surface of the wall and on a lathing made of wood or metal profiles. Without sheathing, laying is usually done on brick and concrete walls, which are separated from external material with help roll thermal insulation. The lining interacts most favorably with insulation made from cork, expanded polystyrene and polystyrene.

Before the facing material is installed on the wall, it must be treated with an antiseptic. To avoid deformation from moisture, it is necessary to equalize its level by keeping the entire eurolining in the room where it will be laid for a day. When installing adjacent panels, it is necessary to make small gaps, while the tenon that connects the component parts is placed at the top, which will help avoid the formation of condensation. In addition, it is used for work vapor barrier film, which must be made of high-quality polyethylene, which is laid on top of the roll insulation.

Fastening eurolining to uneven or wooden walls carried out by installing sheathing. Despite the high labor intensity of the work, this option has its own advantage: the boards can breathe. The decoration inside the house can touch the walls in any of the rooms, it can also be used for the balcony. You can also cover the ceiling with eurolining, if there is such a need.

To work with walls and ceilings, it is necessary to divide the surface on which you want to install the boards, into rectangular areas to make it easier to decide on the principle of laying the material. It is important to prepare fastening materials in required quantity. About thirty clamps are usually used per square meter, but it is better to purchase them with a small margin. It is very important to look at the quality of these elements; they should not be damaged or uneven, and the thickness should not exceed one millimeter; in addition, the clamps must be coated against corrosion.

The lining is installed from the bottom corner, where there are no windows or doors. If the room is small, you need a horizontal tilt of the boards when laying, which will visually lengthen the room; if the ceilings are low, then the material must be laid vertically. In the event that, in addition to the walls, work will be carried out on the floor, laying covering or plinths, then the lining will be assembled from top to bottom, and if work will be carried out on the ceiling, then it should be moved in the opposite direction.

Work on finishing walls with eurolining should begin with the installation of wiring, if needed. All wires must be placed in corrugations that are resistant to flame. After this procedure, it is necessary to add the material itself and leave it for a day to acclimatize, at this time taking care of the fastening elements. Often preference for one type or another is given by the manufacturer, and he indicates this information in the instructions.

When everything is ready for work, it is necessary to determine the direction of laying the boards, There is different ways, with which it can be laid on the wall:

Once the idea is formed, you need to start taking real action. The first step will be to create the sheathing. You can collect it from either wooden planks, and from metal profiles, which is less common. If wood was chosen as the material, it needs to be impregnated protective equipment to increase the service life of the entire structure.

Each sheathing log must be secured no more than 80 cm apart from each other., in the direction from bottom to top or in the opposite direction. Before you start sheathing with Euroboards, you need to check the sheathing using a level. This is the most important stage, on which the entire future result depends. The location of the sheathing depends on the type of fastening of the boards. If they are located vertically, then the boards for fastening must be nailed in a horizontal direction and vice versa.

If there is a need to make the room warmer, then immediately after installing the sheathing, it is necessary to lay insulation between it, and then attach the lining boards. For rooms with high humidity, you need to choose not just insulation, but also protective film for it so that the contents are not damaged by water. When everything is ready, you can attach the eurolining.

For this process you can use:

  • nails;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • clampers.

The latter are considered the most suitable option, since they are not visible after installation, unlike all previous options. They are usually made from a material that does not rust or deteriorate, so clamps can be used in any room. The cost of such elements is much higher than that of others, but the result of the work is many times better.

If the walls are smooth, then there is no need to make lathing, but boards cannot be easily laid on every surface, so you can attach them to OSB plate, which is firmly fixed to the wall, floor or ceiling. Such a base will simultaneously serve as insulation.

When planning to cover a separate wall or an entire room with eurolining, it is important to know not only the basic requirements, but also small, but important nuances, which will help in your work and make the result much better.

When making calculations of the material that will be needed in the work, it is important to use the correct parameters. If the actual width of the board is taken for the calculation, then the final result will have an error of more than five percent. This is due to the grooves, which partially fit into the previous board, which reduces the working surface.

If the room in which the eurolining will be installed has small dimensions, then this material on the ceiling should lie along the window, in addition, you can use combined masonry, making some kind of pattern or combination on the ceiling surface.

When attaching the lining, it is also important to be careful; if the laying proceeds in a horizontal direction, then the tenon should be located at the top, but not in any way reverse side. Do not forget that you need to constantly check with a level that the material is laid correctly. If it is laid correctly, the room will have even corners and correct form, which will visually expand it.

Ready material After installation, you can paint it any color, if necessary. The room can fill sunlight from eurolining to look like natural wood, or the space will receive a new breath and lightness when painted in bright hues. Correct selection type of installation, appropriate color scheme can make any room with eurolining cozy.

The lining is perfect for finishing ceilings, external and external cladding walls and even door trim. Regardless of the cladding object, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern. At the same time, you can easily handle the installation of the lining yourself. Study the basic instructions and get started.

First step

Prepare the lining for the upcoming installation. Soak the material with antiseptic and fire retardant. If desired, you can additionally treat the panels with stain or paint them in the desired color.

Let the treated lining dry and bring the material into the room to be finished. Leave it for a day. The wood adapts to environmental conditions, which eliminates the risk of further deformation.

Second step

Mount the sheathing on the surface to be finished. Buy slats or make them yourself from inch boards or 5x5 cm timber. Attach the sheathing elements in increments 10-20 mm smaller than the width of the future insulation. Fix it using screws or self-tapping screws. The fastening spacing is half a meter.

Control the evenness of the frame using special tools.

Third step

Cover the sheathing waterproofing material (polyethylene film, fastened with a construction stapler), place insulation in the cells (if required, optimal material– mineral wool, lay tightly, without gaps), and then cover with a thermal insulation layer vapor barrier material(attach to the sheathing with a construction stapler).

Fourth step

Attach a second lathing to the wooden sheathing for insulation, intended directly for fixing the lining.

Attach beams or boards perpendicular to the future sheathing and at the same time perpendicular to the frame for insulating materials. That is, the method of attaching the sheathing (horizontally or vertically) needs to be determined for yourself even before attaching the first sheathing.

Treat the sheathing elements with an antiseptic.

There are several options for fastening the boards, and different fasteners can be used to mount the panels. Read the information provided and start finishing.

Mounting options

Choose the method of fixing the lining at your discretion. Factory lining initially has tongues and grooves that allow each subsequent cladding board to be fastened to the previous one.

To fix the lining, you can use staples, clamps, screws and nails. The fastening itself can be done covertly or openly.

As already noted, choose the fastening method at your discretion. The main thing is that the fixation is as reliable and high-quality as possible, and that the lining itself remains without damage. Sink the heads of nails and screws into the wood.

The most accurate and at the same time the most complex method of fixing the sheathing involves nailing directly into the grooves of the lining. This way the nails will be almost invisible.

Clippers are perfect for high-quality fixation of boards. Select the appropriate type of fastener in accordance with the thickness of the grooves of your decorative boards. On one side of the clamp there are teeth - with them the fasteners cut into the grooves of the finishing material. On the other hand, the clamp must be nailed or screwed to the frame. As a rule, the set with clamps initially includes nails.

An option for fastening the lining is also available, which involves the use of special brackets. In this case it is used mounting gun. The bracket shoots a groove in the board and secures it to the frame. To perform such installation you need to have the appropriate skills.

The lining is treated with the necessary impregnations, the battens are installed, the necessary insulating materials laid, installation method selected. Now all that remains is to attach the lining directly.

Decide on the optimal direction for placing the cladding elements - this has already been discussed earlier.

Focus on your preferences and features of the room. For example, horizontal decoration allows you to visually expand the room, making it visually more spacious.

When placed vertically, the lining will visually increase the height of the room.

First step

Proceed to attaching the lining. Start sheathing the walls from the ceiling to the floor. At the same time, try to direct the grooves downward - thanks to this, various debris will not get into them in the future, which will help to significantly increase the service life of the skin.

Second step

Fix the clapboard sheet onto the sheathing bars. Use convenient fasteners. Insert the tenon of the next sheathing element into the groove of the fixed board. Secure it. Cover the entire planned space in this order.

Every 5-10 sheathing elements, be sure to check the evenness of the surface using a plumb line or level.

Third step

Having reached the last board of the lining, adjust it to the width with a regular hacksaw or other suitable tool. Nail the board and hide the gap under the decorative baseboard.

Fourth step

Clean the finishing surface from dust using a damp sponge. If you wish, you can finish painting the lining, but this is not necessary - the wood already has an attractive appearance and a beautiful shade.

If a special lining will be used for the cladding, which outwardly imitates a rounded log, start finishing with the groove facing up - this way you will hide the joints.

Additionally, the panels can be adjusted using a hammer, placing a piece of board under it - this way the finish will be fixed without gaps.

To fasten the “rounded” lining, use self-tapping screws. Twist the fasteners at 45 degrees. Place treated timber between the panels of such sheathing. This will create beautiful finish no gaps.

First step

Start attaching the clapboard boards from the corner. The first clapboard board in the corner must be secured with nails. The fastener caps will later be hidden under decorative corner. If you don’t want to buy a corner, simply bite off the caps using a side cutter.

Second step

Continue fixing the sheathing boards until the entire planned surface is covered. Work as with horizontal finishing, inserting one element into another and fixing it one by one.

Third step

When you reach the last board, cut it to size and nail it to the frame.

In the end, all that remains is to decorate the sheathing with special slats, plinths, and corners - these elements allow you to hide the joints and properly decorate the corners.

The ceiling is sheathed with the material in question in the same order as the walls. The only note is that the lining should begin to be attached from the window opening to the opposite wall. With this placement, the shadows between the cladding elements will be less noticeable.

Thus, in self-installation there is absolutely nothing complicated about the lining. To extend the service life of the cladding, re-treat it with an antiseptic and fire retardant every 2-3 years. Otherwise, follow the instructions and you will create the highest quality, durable and aesthetically pleasing finish.

Good luck!

Video - Installation of lining with your own hands

In the world of metal, plastic and concrete, it is quite difficult to feel comfortable. It’s prestigious to live in a house decorated with technological materials, but you will be haunted by feelings of cold.

The presence of wood in the interior will bring the missing warmth and create a natural microclimate. And if you decide to cover the walls with wooden slats, the issue of wall design and comfort must be resolved at the same time.

The lumber is suitable for both interior and facade finishing. But you shouldn’t make the entire wall the same type, relying on decorative features sheathing, because the fine texture of the boards in small spaces looks uninteresting. It is welcome in the form of panels, and goes well with other textures, such as plaster or wallpaper. The balcony looks decent, where such cladding is especially appropriate.

The natural material is made from well-known tree species that grow everywhere.

Ennobled look "Extra" - from coniferous species and aspen, is considered elite and suitable for interior decoration.

Cladding boards of grade A also belong to upper class. B and C are in demand for outdoor use. In addition to eurolining, there are also decorative types(block house).

The slats vary in length and are available in 4 sizes: 2 100 mm with a subsequent increase in parameters by 30 mm - 2400 etc

In general, the range allows you to choose a material based on the capabilities and ideas about the practicality of cladding.

In addition to environmentally friendly lining, a polymer analogue is also produced. For a specific room, suitable slats of a certain type of wood are selected, and the priority depends on the purpose of the room. Thus, a bathhouse is not finished with pine for the reason that it reacts to high degrees by releasing resin.

Plastic panels are relevant for baths and kitchens - beautiful in appearance, but not comparable to the natural energy of wood.

Walls made of natural boards are:

  • warm
  • good sound insulation
  • the smell of the forest
  • long service life

Making cladding is not difficult if you have patience and have at least approximate skills in working with tools.

At the preparation stage, the boards are covered protective composition(basic “Pinotex”). For shade, they are treated with stain or glaze (for example, “Belinka”), but this is already at the finishing stage.

After the process, they need to be dried well, and brought into the house a day before the start of work, so that the wood does not dry out later.

Installation with clamps, nails and staples

Installation of the lining takes place on the sheathing. To do this, you need to buy slats or cut them yourself from inch boards of the required length.

The finished sections should fit snugly against the wall with a fixation step of 50 cm. Initially, the structure frame is leveled using a level or plumb line.

The space between the sheathing slats will provide air circulation and long and high-quality operation. Insulation is laid out over the entire area, and waterproofing is placed on it. Both layers not only retain heat, but also make the walls soundproof. In our case, the lining is attached to the sheathing, which Necessarily processed antiseptic primer.

The method of choosing a mount is up to you. In fact, there are several of them, and you will determine for yourself how it will be convenient to insert the tenon into the recess of the board.

The fastening is:

  • secret
  • external

performed:

  • staples
  • screws
  • nails
  • clampers

What are we going to fasten it with?

Regarding fixation, it should be noted that you should be careful in your actions, otherwise you can split the bar. When using nails, use a hammer - this will help to completely sink the head into the canvas, but try not to damage the groove.

If you have decided on this point, it’s time to move directly to the process. Even before the construction of the sheathing began, it was necessary to determine the vector direction of the sheathing, and now you only need to align the guides.

If you want to lay the lining horizontally, create a visual impression wide room. When the planks move vertically, the ceiling will rise, but the space will narrow. The preference is yours.

Horizontal version

The principle of the arrangement of the planks starts from the ceiling and moves towards the floor with a similar direction of the grooves. This will prevent the entry of debris and small fragments from the outside, as well as the possibility of moisture penetration.

Note on working with block house lining, similar in appearance to rounded log.

  • The groove should point upward and the side of the board, according to the idea, should hide the border of the connection. In principle, there should be no gaps left, and to avoid them, the planks are adjusted with a hammer or a piece of lath.
  • The parts are connected to the sheathing with nails with small heads, which are successfully hidden under the next element.

All that remains is to tidy up the corner. To decorate it, a beam is inserted between the slats, masking the longitudinal gap, and also protecting it from drafts. The facing is ready.

The layout of the lining with an upward direction starts from the corner. It's simple: clamps are inserted into the first facing part and nailed to the sheathing. The caps will then be hidden by the inserted corner or you can bite them off with side cutters

Further actions completely duplicate the above principle, and the smooth canvas forms a flawlessly designed wall.

At the final stage, beautiful slats, baseboards and corners are nailed down.

We install lining on aerated concrete walls

Let's consider the option of cladding directly onto the surface without a wooden structure.

  1. From a collection of materials, we select strips with a defect for the guides, pre-treated with a protective compound.
  2. Take a drill bit for concrete 6 mm and make holes.
  3. We set the first level in both planes.
  4. Insert a dowel into the finished hole NAT 6.
  5. We screw screws into the grooves of the planks and insert them into the nylon dowel.
  6. We control the exact location of the guides. For correction, we insert fragments from hard linings.

We will prepare clamps for fastening and fix each one 3 carnations. The way to work with them is this:

  • A fastener element is inserted into the groove and nailed into the open holes. In the process, we use an extension - an inverted nail with the tip sticking out forward. This technique will prevent deformation of the wooden edges;
  • Drowning 2 nail, turn the clamp according to the vector directed towards the sheathing. We track the vertical of the bar;
  • All that's left is to score 3rd nail in the center. We nail the finishing part with a thin nail along the edge, and the imperfections of the fasteners will be hidden by the decorative plinth;

In front of you is a solid surface where you need to cut out a place for the socket.

Since it was provided in advance, you took care of running the cable and only covered it with cardboard while you were working.

At the time of cladding, its location was marked on the boards in the neighborhood. Therefore, it will not be possible to take the system outside special effort. Now we cut out the opening using a wood cutter. We install a tree box into the gaping space, and now all that remains is the electrical work.

Decorative aspects of tinting are left to the last stage. A translucent glaze that creates a protective barrier with a translucent structural surface is relevant.

Everything is learned in practice, and the experience gained and confidence in your abilities will push you to other achievements in home improvement. Go ahead and let your design be unique!

The walls in the house take up much more space than the ceilings and floors. Therefore, their design should be treated as carefully as possible, having thought through the type of facing material, and analyzing its characteristics. In addition, the walls must have an attractive appearance and be easy to clean. The article will discuss the choice and methods of fastening eurolining.

Eurolining

Wood is one of the most sought after building materials. It is popular for cladding both the facade of the house and interior work. After all, a tree is natural material, which is ready to serve for decades and has a fairly attractive appearance.

Eurolining photo

  • Eurolining is a type of finishing material processed in a special way on all sides. To facilitate the sheathing, there are grooves and tenons along its edges. The sizes of eurolining may vary slightly, but the most popular material is with the following parameters:
    1. thickness 1.2 cm;
    2. width 9.6 cm;
    3. length 2-3 m.
  • Lining - quite practical material, which is easy to install. It helps in leveling walls and hiding defects that arise when walls are plastered incorrectly. The characteristics depend on the type of wood itself from which it is made. After all, all types of wood are different in their structure and properties.
  • The material for the production of this type of finishing materials is wood, both deciduous and coniferous. Conifers at a price significantly lower than deciduous ones. So, eurolining made of cedar will cost more than pine. Wood should be selected depending on its application.
  • Also, other types of materials are used in production. The most cost-effective material is PVC eurolining, but in this case the finishing material is inferior in quality. After all, natural wood will always look much more attractive than artificial plastic.
  • If there is a need to decorate the room from the inside, then it is allowed to use finishing material with low characteristics. In the case of external cladding, on the contrary, you should use eurolining made of hardwood, which is not afraid of an aggressive operating environment, resistant to moisture and sudden temperature changes. To make it last longer, it is treated with a special solution, which gives greater strength and wear resistance.

A type of eurolining

Difference by class

  • class "extra". This is the most elite type of lining. It differs in that it has absolutely no defects;
  • "A" class. IN this type minor defects may be present;
  • "B" class. There are more knots here than in the class above. The diameter of the knots is also larger;
  • "C" class. The cheapest and low-quality type of eurolining. Its applications for decorative design inappropriate.

Difference by wood

  • The most popular type of eurolining is board pine wood. This is due not only to the high positive performance of the material, but also to its rather low price. Pine eurolining has quite high strength, and its specific gravity relatively small. It will not create too much stress on the sheathing. This wood contains much less moisture than deciduous wood. In addition, the amount of time required to dry its preparations is significantly less than for drying other species. This fact leads to optimization of the production process and lower costs.
  • Since it is the eurolining made of pine that contains great content resins, it is durable and beneficial for the human body. After all, the release into the air essential oils can cure even advanced chronic pulmonary diseases. And the pleasant smell of pine will not harm anyone, at the same time creating good mood and a feeling of comfort. The resin itself is an excellent preservative, which significantly increases the service life of wood.

  • In addition, a pine board looks quite attractive and original. It has a peculiar yellowish tint and is distinguished by a beautiful pattern of knots and rings of the tree trunk.

The main advantages of pine eurolining:

  • attractive appearance and original texture of the material;
  • long service life. It is not even necessary to treat this board with special impregnations and apply a protective coating;
  • low weight;
  • a large number of manufacturers on the market;
  • relatively low price compared to other types of wood;
  • quite a wide range. The fact is that pine boards are presented on the market in all possible designs. Sizes can be selected to suit every taste. But eurolining from other types of trees of the required size is more difficult to find;
  • pine is a tree that is easy to process and install. This makes it quite easy to install. You can do this yourself, without involving professionals.

Of course, in addition to pine, beneficial properties for the human body and strength associated with the presence of a high concentration of resin in the material also differs spruce lining. But it releases sticky drops of resin during its entire service life. This board is also called a board that cries. In this regard, the price of euro-lining made from spruce is significantly lower than that of pine boards.

So, let’s move on directly to the installation of the eurolining itself. In general, it is no different from installing conventional lining. The only difference is the quality of the material and the size of the grooves.

How to fasten eurolining

  • Preparing walls for cladding. Initially, you need to level the wall. In this case, you should use a sheathing that is installed at an angle of ninety degrees to the direction of the lining. Lathing is not required if the walls are already fairly smooth.
  • Determining the direction of eurolining. There are several types of its installation. So, vertical installation visually increases the height of the ceilings. Horizontal - visually increases the space of the room. But laying it at an angle will look stylish and original.
  • Choosing a mounting method. There are several options for fastening eurolining. This is fastening to the wall itself or to the sheathing, fastening to special brackets with holes for installation. The last method is used if narrow eurolining is used. To do this, the bracket is nailed to the wall to connect it into a groove with the next element.
  • If you need to make the fastening invisible, then you need to screw the self-tapping screw into the Eurolining tenon itself. In this case, the next element closes the head of the screw when joining and entering the groove into the groove.
  • When self-tapping screws are attached to the eurolining itself, special wooden dowels are used. They allow you to hide the fastening and give the wallpaper a seamless look.

Preparation for work on the installation of eurolining

  • Eurolining should be stored in a special way before installation. It must be in the manufacturer's packaging in a dry and clean room, there should be no sudden temperature changes and direct exposure to sunlight should be absolutely excluded.
  • In order for the material to get used to environment, it is recommended to remove it from the packaging two days before the start of installation work.
  • Using a dry or slightly damp cloth, remove dust and dirt from the material.
  • It is very important at this stage to treat the lining with a special antiseptic solution. It prevents the occurrence of mold, fungi and protects against insects. After this, the slats should dry thoroughly.

  • It must be taken into account that installation work for sheathing are carried out exclusively at an air temperature of at least 5 °C. Also, air humidity should not be higher than 60%.
  • If you want to cover the material with special decorative varnishes or paint, then the easiest way to do this is before starting installation work. This will allow the varnish to be applied evenly and dry without streaks. When covering the walls of a bathhouse or sauna, the use of varnish is prohibited. After all, during the heating process, it will release harmful fumes into the air.
  • The next step will be to correctly calculate the amount of material that will be required for the cladding. To do this, both the area of ​​the walls or ceiling and the thickness of the board are taken into account. We should not forget that working width eurolining is reduced by ten millimeters due to the fact that the longitudinal tenon fits into the groove of the next element.

Lathing for installing eurolining

  • In order for the eurolining to serve for decades and not lose its properties during operation, it must be mounted exclusively on a flat surface. Therefore, it is often impossible to mount it on bare walls. If the walls are wooden and absolutely smooth, then in this case installation can begin without surface preparation. If the wall is made of brick, concrete or metal, then you need to start by arranging a wooden sheathing.

  • It is a frame made of wooden slats, having a thickness of two or three centimeters and attached to the surface. They can be attached not only to walls, but also to the ceiling and floor. If the slats are attached to the ceiling, then the distance between them should be about 40 cm. And if on the wall, then from 50 to 70 cm. The direction must be chosen so that they are at right angles to the boards. For achievement best result, a level should be used. In this case, the slats will be installed as evenly as possible. You should also not skimp on the material for the sheathing. It is important that the slats are straight and without significant defects. Their role is not only perfect alignment surface, but also in creating special ventilation between the wall and the lining.

Methods of fastening eurolining

  • Fastening eurolining with self-tapping screws. The lining is attached with self-tapping screws on the side where the tenon is located. It is best to choose the length of the fasteners within 1-1.5 cm. After tightening, the screws should be covered using a dowel. Upon completion of the covering, it is necessary to cut off all protruding elements and carefully sand the entire surface.

  • Finishing with eurolining using invisible fastening with brackets. The first board of the lining is applied to the right corner and cut according to the right size. After which it is fixed with the help of special staples, or as they are also called clasps. They firmly fix the cladding to the sheathing, without interfering with the joining of subsequent slats using tongue-and-groove means.

  • Invisible fastening with nails. This method of fastening is similar to the similar fastening with staples. But, in this case, it is not staples that are used, but narrow nails that are galvanized. But the caps should be driven deep into the material, otherwise they will stick out and interfere with the fastening of the next board.

Installation of eurolining with your own hands

  • The first board is placed as straight as possible in a vertical position in the right corner. In this case, you cannot do without a level. This is important because all other boards that are attached to the starting board must be perfectly level.
  • Next, the lining is fastened using any of the methods described earlier.
  • The next board must be inserted with a tenon into the groove of the initial one and driven tightly along the board. Next, check the evenness of the vertical using a level or plumb line. If even the slightest inaccuracies occur, the board should be installed anew. The angle must be strictly 90 degrees.

  • The last plank is cut to size and, to make the corner more beautiful, it is covered with fittings, in particular a decorative wooden corner.
  • Installation of the ceiling with eurolining is carried out according to a similar principle.

Installation of eurolining video

Eurolining care

  • In order for the facing board not to lose its attractiveness and to serve as long as possible without changing its characteristics, it requires proper and systematic care, which is directly related to the processing methods and purpose of the lining.
  • If the room in which the eurolining will be located is excessively humid or prone to significant differences temperatures, the boards themselves may soon change their appearance, crack and become deformed.
  • All kinds of natural impregnations, oils and varnishes can be used for protection. They can also be applied during the operation of the cladding, thereby updating its appearance.
  • If you treat the lining with an antiseptic containing boric salt, then it can be used to cover not only saunas and baths, but also external facade Houses. In this case, she will not be afraid of rain, wind, or frost.
  • To care for the lining, the use of abrasive substances is prohibited. It will be enough to wipe the wood with a damp cloth soaked in soap solution. If you need to remove a stain on the board, you can use a solvent locally. Subsequently, treat the area to be cleaned with varnish or oil, depending on what material it was previously treated with.

As you can see, eurolining is a universal natural material that does not require special care, is relatively inexpensive and quite easy to install. Reliability, practicality and amazing appearance of eurolining make it a leader among facing materials.

The difference between “eurolining” and wooden lining is that it is produced according to European standard DIN 68126. Improved and modernized wood processing technologies make this environmentally friendly and safe material highly resistant to moisture. Significantly simplify installation and extend service life.

To install the eurolining yourself correctly, you will need the necessary tools:

  • electric jigsaw;
  • ruler with level;
  • hammer;
  • perforator;
  • wood screws;
  • mounting thread;
  • drill;
  • clampers.

You can calculate the coverage area using the width of the working panel, which is 88 mm. Difficulties with the ceiling area arise quite rarely, but for ease of calculation, the surface of the walls is divided into separate rectangles. The length of the board should be equal to one of the sides of the resulting sectors. Depending on how the window or doorway is located, the other side will be of arbitrary size.

Be careful when using in calculations not the working width, but the actual width of the board, which is 96 mm; its error will be 7%.

Eat simple instructions, which does not require a specific classification of the master. It describes in detail how to properly secure the lining. It includes several points - from wall preparation to final finishing.

PREPARATION

Before you install wood paneling you need to do it indoors in advance best option electrical wiring. After the finishing process is completed, the wires will be hidden under the panels. These wires are placed in special channels called corrugations, which are made of non-flammable material.

Boxes with boards must be opened and kept in this condition for 24 to 72 hours. This is necessary so that the material can get used to the given climate, temperature and humidity in the room. As a result, shrinkage or expansion of the panels at the joints can be avoided.

The appearance of the lining will change over time depending on how you fasten the eurolining. Differences in color and texture are very noticeable, as they are made from solid wood. Therefore, before installation, you need to select the most suitable sequence of boards, it depends on the chosen laying direction. Directions can be: diagonal, vertical, combined and horizontal.

Attention: when finishing the ceiling, panels located along the incident rays of light from the window can significantly increase the volume of the room.

INSTALLING THE LATTING

  • It doesn’t matter what type of wood is used for the sheathing, the main thing is that this material is artificially dried;
  • Sheathing boards are attached to load-bearing slats with a cross-section of 20 by 45 or 30 by 45 mm;
  • Using a level you can check the correct installation;
  • The distance between the slats should be 0.4-0.8 m.

The direction of the lathing depends on how the eurolining is attached:

  1. The slats are attached to the ceiling and floor in a diagonal or horizontal position;
  2. It is necessary to install the slats horizontally with vertical cladding, from wall to wall. It's better to start at the top and gradually move down.

THERMAL INSULATION

If you are sheathing the room yourself, use mineral wool as insulation. Cotton wool fills the space between the lining and the wall well.

For additional hydro- or vapor barrier, a water-repellent film is attached on top of the wool with a stapler, with the silver side facing inward. This can be Tyvek, Izospan or other waterproofing materials.

KLEIMERS

Clamps are hidden clamps that are used to secure eurolining. WITH outside This fastener is discreet, does not cause the wood to expand or shrink, and helps prevent the panels from splitting. Fasteners for eurolining are made of galvanized steel, which is located under reliable protection from corrosion.

Galvanized nails, screws and clamps are sold in sets of 100 and 200 pieces. About 20 clamps are needed for one square meter of eurolining. The price of the package depends on the completeness. When purchasing, pay attention to the elasticity of the retainer, the presence of coating and the thickness of the plate.

Pay attention to the first panel when fastening with self-tapping screws. Then the protruding part of the clamp is inserted into the groove of the board, and the base is screwed or nailed to the supporting rails. Each subsequent strip and fastener fit into the groove pressed by the clamp with its tenon, covering it with itself. Under required size The last board is adjusted and cut. Hitting the end with a hammer if the boards are joined with some force is not recommended. Hitting with a hammer can split a tenon or groove. In these cases, a piece of slats is placed under a hammer.

Attention: if horizontal mount eurolining, then place the planks with the tenon facing up to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the grooves.

FINISH

When you complete the sheathing, treat the surface with an antiseptic; it protects the wood from fungus and rot. To brighten the wood texture, use wax or stain. The interior looks beautiful with a matte varnish coating.

Let’s conclude that it won’t be difficult to figure out for yourself how the eurolining is attached. The good thing about the workflow is that installation can be done quickly and easily. And another plus is that at the end of the work there is very little waste and garbage in the room.