Pickled apples all year round or insulating your beloved aunt’s cellar. Guide to internal thermal insulation of a cellar from freezing What to do if the basement under the barn freezes

September 2, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

I have an aunt - Angela Olegovna - who prepares the best pickled apples in the world, marinating them in barrels. But this year she and her husband built a new, more spacious cellar and there was no fruit in it, as it froze in the winter. As soon as I found out about this, I immediately realized that the incorrect insulation of the cellar was to blame for everything (as it turned out later, it was not insulated at all).

If the thermal conductivity of the walls of an underground structure is too high (especially when paired with poor ventilation), then in the summer they are created in the cellar ideal conditions for the reproduction of various microorganisms, and in winter all homemade preparations simply freeze.

Features of the cellar microclimate

Regardless of whether the cellar was located under a private house or built separately (like Angela Olegovna), in my opinion, it requires good insulation. This operation affects not only the formation of an acceptable microclimate inside, but also the service life of the building.

If certain measures are not taken, the walls will quickly become unusable and collapse from the destructive effects of external factors: high humidity and significant temperature fluctuations.

But the most important thing is the optimal temperature for storing food. My auntie told me that soaked apples are obtained only if the air is not heated above 4 degrees Celsius and not cooled below 2. This can only be achieved if the cellar is thermally insulated both inside and out.

In this case, the walls of the cellar will not let warm air inside in summer and cold winter.

Another important point that many people rarely pay attention to. Many times I have encountered situations where moisture condenses on the walls and ceiling inside the cellar. This is one of the consequences of improper insulation (or its complete absence).

To reduce humidity levels, insulation measures are not enough. It is also necessary to design ventilation that will regulate the content of water vapor in the room.

And, of course, I advise you to immediately think about waterproofing, without which the thermal insulation material will get wet and work worse, and the walls themselves will quickly collapse.

However, let's return to our sheep. Before describing the process of insulating a cellar, I want to devote a few lines to the problem of choosing a suitable material.

Choosing the right material

Of course, if you have at least some idea about construction work, you can name a dozen materials that are suitable for insulation. But I decided to choose ordinary polystyrene foam to insulate Angela Olegovna’s cellar.

Its technical characteristics and operational properties fully correspond to the assigned tasks, and the price is quite affordable. After purchasing thermal insulation, there will still be a lot of money left to buy two or three barrels of apples at the market and pickle them.

For especially meticulous readers who are not accustomed to taking their word for it, and also in order to justify their choice to my aunt, I will give a comparative table of the pros and cons of polystyrene foam.

pros	Minuses
The material has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, therefore it maintains the desired temperature in the food cellar well.	Polystyrene foam is not suitable for use on the external surface of cellar walls, since the outside will be subject to significant mechanical stress from the surrounding soil and may collapse.
Polystyrene foam weighs very little, so installation does not require massive sheathing. In addition, it does not place a large load on building structures, so you do not have to worry about the walls shrinking after the work is completed.	Under influence open fire polystyrene foam ignites and during combustion releases into the air hazardous to humans chemical compounds. However, no one grills kebabs in the cellar, so this drawback can be neglected.
The heat insulator withstands moisture well. Its thermal characteristics do not deteriorate when wet, and it itself does not collapse.	Polystyrene foam is not very durable, so even when installed inside, measures must be taken to protect the insulation from damage.
When compared with other suitable thermal insulators, polystyrene foam is the cheapest among them. This factor is important if you are insulating your cellar and want to save as much as possible.	The material can be damaged by rodents, but no rodents were observed with Angela Olegovna. Moreover, the cat Vaska is always on guard, who, although he does not like apples, is not averse to eating lard, which is stored in the same cellar.

Another point that attracts me personally is the simplicity of operations for insulating the cellar. I can do all the work without a partner, so I don’t have to share the reward, that is, pickled apples.

So I immediately decided which insulation to use damp cellar from freezing and save apples from spoilage. And I advise you to do the same.

And now I’ll tell you how to insulate the cellar from the inside.

Internal insulation technology

First, let's look at internal insulation. And all because they often think about thermal insulation after problems arise and carry out external works difficult. Although I highly recommend taking a comprehensive approach to the issue and insulating the cellar both outdoors and indoors.

Preparatory stage

Even if insulation is carried out after construction is completed, it is impossible to do without some preparation. I recommend doing the following:

Before installing thermal insulation material, you must make sure that the surfaces (ceiling and walls) are level and free of defects. If, when examining the walls, you find cracks, potholes or bumps, you need to get rid of them.

After leveling and repairing the walls, I advise treating them with antiseptic compounds that will destroy existing fungus and mold, and also prevent the development of various harmful microorganisms in the future.

If for some reason there is no ventilation in the cellar or it is not working efficiently, it is necessary to install pipes or repair the ventilation system. The fact is that after installing the thermal insulation layer, the humidity in the room will increase sharply and excess moisture will need to be quickly disposed of.

Having finished with the preparation, you can move on to insulation. And I recommend starting from the ceiling.

Ceiling

So, I insulated Angela Olegovna’s ceiling, or more precisely, the ceiling of my aunt’s cellar, with polystyrene foam according to the following scheme:

First I examined the surface. I found several minor cracks in the seams between the concrete floor slabs. I sealed them with putty with antiseptic additives.
If you are going to attach thermal insulation with dowels, you need to take special, thermally insulated ones. Although heat loss in winter will be insignificant, the optimal temperature may not be reached.
After repairing the surface, I attached a vapor barrier membrane to the ceiling so that during subsequent operation moisture is normally removed from the cellar without condensing on the walls.

The membrane is a polymer film with special perforation that does not prevent infiltration humid air outside, but does not allow moisture to penetrate from outside.

As a vapor barrier for the ceiling, I used penofol, which consists of a layer of foamed polyethylene protected aluminum foil. It is good because it serves as an additional heat insulator. Aluminum acts as a screen that reflects thermal energy into the room.

Then I installed hangers for the sheathing. I used galvanized profile, which is better suited for wet areas. That’s why I attached it to special hangers.

Instead, you can use wooden blocks of suitable height (a few centimeters higher than the thickness of the foam). However, it is advisable to pre-treat them with antiseptics and special hydrophobic compounds. Accordingly, they will have to be secured with screws and dowels.

The distance between adjacent sheathing elements should be the same as the width foam boards. If it is less, you will have to trim it, if it is more, the cracks will become an excellent conductor of cold.

Then I installed insulation boards. In my case, polystyrene foam, but something else can be used in a similar way. The only thing is, do not install glass wool, which, when wet, does not perform the tasks assigned to it. Yes, and it is harmful, the apples will be covered in glass dust.

Foam sheets must be mounted so that the gaps between adjacent parts are as small as possible. I personally additionally fill them with polyurethane foam to eliminate even the slightest chance of the formation of cold bridges.

I put another layer of penofol on top. As they say, the stock doesn't stretch your pocket. However, this must be done so that there is a gap of 5 cm high between the foam plastic and the vapor barrier, which will ensure ventilation.
If the height of the bars is not enough or you did not think about it in advance, you can make a low counter-lattice on top.
I install decorative material. I chose plastic panels. They are inexpensive, can withstand exposure to humid air well, and look good. Although for the cellar this may not matter.

This technology leads to the fact that the height of the room is slightly reduced.

Floor

Now about gender. It can be insulated using a similar technology, with a few exceptions:

the bottom layer needs to be laid with waterproofing material (such as roofing felt);
support logs (sheathing) must be made of strong bars that can withstand increased load;
The entire structure will have to be covered with boards or plywood on top.

This technology is simple and not very labor-intensive, but the bottleneck is the use of wood. It is not suitable for use in the cellar, as it quickly becomes unusable. Therefore, if I did this, I would have to do everything all over again in a few years.

I decided to use extruded polystyrene, which has all the properties of polystyrene foam, but is strong enough to withstand the increased stress that is placed on the floor.

So, the scheme of work is as follows:

Inspect the floor surface for defects and cracks. If the floor has big differences in height, I advise you to first screed along the beacons (if the differences are small, you can pour a self-leveling mixture) and wait for it to dry.

After completing the repair, you need to clean the surface. Then waterproof it. You can lay lining materials or treat the floor with mastic based on bitumen resins. I prefer the second option, although it takes longer to dry individual layers.

As soon as the waterproofing has dried, sheets of polystyrene foam are laid on top. They need to be positioned so that the seams run apart.

Then a metal mesh is installed to strengthen the screed. After all, the floor will have to withstand significant loads from standing barrels of apples. And this is a serious matter.

Then the solution is poured onto the reinforcing mesh and carefully leveled.
The last stage is decorative flooring. I gave Angela Olegovna a gift and built her a polymer self-leveling floor. It turned out that you can not only store fruits and vegetables there, but also live in general.

However, it was still too early to live, since there were still walls without insulation. These are the ones that will be discussed further.

Walls

For the walls, I also decided to use polystyrene foam, as I already mentioned, but I attached it not under the sheathing, but with the help of special dowels with wide heads and glue.

I’m telling you the top-secret technology so that you too are aware:

I check the walls and eliminate cracks. Of course, I have already repeated this twice, but believe me, many neglect to complete this stage of work, and then angrily write in the comments why their vegetables in the cellar continue to freeze.
Installing waterproofing material. Pasting roll materials are excellent. Just choose non-fused ones, but adhesive-based ones. They are easier to install, and they do not release dangerous chemical compounds into the air.

I glue polystyrene foam. For this purpose, special solutions are used, which can be purchased at hardware stores.

Installing plastic dowels. These are brackets with very wide caps that will firmly hold the foam in place.

I install the reinforcing mesh. It is made from fiberglass. Some, again, skip this stage, and then their plaster falls off.

Plastering polystyrene foam. This will protect the fragile thermal insulation material from mechanical stress and will allow the installation of decorative lathing in the future.

By the way, regarding decorative finishing. Here you can do everything at your own discretion, but remember the high humidity. Angela Olegovna decided to take a swing at tiles, which will make her cellar simply exemplary. But since she didn’t have the money to buy the material, I postponed this stage of work for now.

And took up external insulation, since it is in this case that the greatest efficiency is achieved from the heat-insulating materials used.

External insulation technology

For me, the answer to the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a cellar outside is obvious. If you still doubt this, read the next section, where I tried to substantiate my own opinion and tell you how to perform external insulation.

Advantages of the method

Personally, I believe that it is not necessary to insulate the cellar inside if it is possible to do it outside. The fact is that outer layer insulation protects the structure itself and the waterproofing layer not only from low temperatures, but also from mechanical influences.

Besides:

an ideal microclimate for storing vegetables and fruits is formed in the cellar;
the surface of the walls in the room itself will be warm, that is, the potatoes near them will not freeze;
moisture will not condense on the walls;
the size of the cellar will not change (although my aunt’s is already so spacious that you can stock up on food and survive a considerable cataclysm);
Proper external insulation eliminates the formation of cold bridges.

Therefore, if it is possible to install insulation outside, do just that. But before that, thoroughly waterproof the surfaces. Now I’ll tell you how and what.

Surface waterproofing

The peculiarity of the work here is that the surfaces being treated will be underground after completion of waterproofing measures, and therefore will be subject to significant exposure to moisture.

For waterproofing in this case, I used guided adhesive materials. This is a modern roofing material, the adhesive layer of which is activated under the influence of high temperature. I used a gas burner.

If you do not know how to work with heated materials, use membranes with adhesive layer. Or even take bitumen mastic and paint the outside of the cellar walls.

Installation of thermal insulation

For thermal insulation, I used special heat-insulating boards made of extruded polystyrene. They have a low thermal conductivity coefficient and sufficient strength to withstand the mechanical impact that occurs when backfilling the cellar.

The slabs are installed on the waterproofing layer using mastic. It is applied to the surface of the slab, after which the material is pressed against the surface until the glue sets (usually this takes about 40 seconds, but it all depends on the air temperature).

You need to lay out the slabs starting from the bottom of the cellar walls (from the ground) and gradually move up. The last row should be positioned so that after backfilling it rises 30-40 cm above the ground.

It is very important to ensure that the insulation boards fit snugly against each other. Cracks and gaps must be filled with construction foam.

Also be careful when backfilling the soil. Make sure the ground is free of rocks and dense clods of earth that could damage the insulation. After installation, the slabs do not require any finishing. That's why I decided to use them.

Naturally, it is better to do all the activities described above during construction in order to reduce the amount of effort involved, but if you did not attend to this in time, then proceed according to the scheme proposed above.

Conclusion

Now you know how to protect the cellar from freezing in winter period. But to enjoy pickled apples, since you don’t have Angela Olegovna, you’ll have to make them yourself. If you don’t know a suitable recipe, you can watch the video in this article, which has detailed instructions.

But personally, I would like to ask you about this: how did you carry out or are going to carry out the insulation of the cellar in the garage. Tell me about your practical experience or your thoughts on this matter. I would be grateful for detailed messages in the comments below.

It is not entirely pleasant to live in a building where, even with a well-lit stove, the floor remains very cold. To correct this deficiency, you will need to insulate the basement of the house. But, besides this unpleasant effect, there are other consequences of the lack of work in this direction. This article will reveal the nuances and suggest ways to eliminate problems.

Why is this necessary?

Basements or cellars are built on the assumption that the temperature underground is always lower than on the surface and, with proper thermal insulation, is maintained at the same level. Insulation is absolutely necessary; it eliminates such troubles as:

Soil swelling. If such a course of events is allowed, then the entire foundation of the house may be damaged and large funds will be required for restoration.
Large heat losses. Fuel costs aimed at heating the floor and basement can be 20% of the total amount. Simple calculations will show the amount saved.
Health issue. From childhood, parents teach children that their feet should be warm. According to accepted standards, the floor temperature should be no more than 3°C lower than the ambient temperature. This is an ideal indicator. But if the difference reaches much greater value, then you can be absolutely sure that the consequences will be frequent colds in the autumn and winter periods.
Communications. Often they try to place the main main water supply and heating pipes under the house. If you do not take care to maintain a constant positive air temperature, this can lead to damage to all systems and their failure.
Increasingly, basements and attics are being used for residential purposes. In the second case, for example, an attic is built. In the first there are workshops, swimming pools, laundries, etc. This implies constant or frequent presence of people in them. High-quality insulation is required for the operation of equipment and a comfortable stay.
Humidity. Condensation can form from the temperature difference between inside and outside. And this applies not only to winter time. If the basement is very frozen over the winter, then condensation will inevitably appear with warming. The consequence of this will be the growth of mold and pathogenic fungi. Over time, this will lead to the penetration of spores into the home, damage to the flooring and other interior elements. Moisture can seep out of the soil through concrete walls. This nuance is also resolved at the insulation stage.
Food safety. Pickles and other preserves are usually stored in basements. Too cold air will cause them to freeze and spoil.

Preparation

It is best to carry out work in the warm season, when it is easy to restore order.

To prepare the basement you need:

Full cleaning. Get rid of all the trash and unnecessary things that are usually put aside for later and never used.
Ensure good ventilation for several days, closing the room only at night. This procedure will get rid of accumulated moisture. In some cases you will need additional accessories, For example, heat guns which will help dry walls, ceilings and floors.
Elimination of mold and mildew that may have appeared during operation.
Treatment with an antiseptic composition. It will prevent the spread of any pathogens.
Installation of ventilation system. This step is very important; it will allow for good air exchange, eliminating stagnation of air masses and moisture. How to properly organize the ventilation of a basement or cellar, read.

Removing mold and mildew is not a one-day task. The fact is that they reproduce by spores. These tiny seeds can remain inactive for long periods of time. Therefore, processing may need to be carried out several times. If you don’t do this, then all the finishing work will go down the drain, because in the end everything will have to be redone. There are several ways to correct the situation. One of them involves treating contaminated surfaces with white.

For a more effective fight, you need to prepare a mixture that consists of the following components:

1 part vinegar;
1 part hydrogen peroxide;
2 parts water;
0.5 parts boric acid.

The liquids are mixed in a suitable container. Next, the resulting cocktail is heated to 60–80°C. This is done to make the effect more obvious. The last step is to apply the product to the damaged areas. To do this, you will need a stiff brush with artificial bristles. At the same time, it is important to take care of your own safety. You will need a respirator with replaceable cartridges, rubber gloves, a painter's suit (usually sold in hardware stores), and good ventilation. At the end of the process, the walls will need to be thoroughly dried so that no moisture remains, since this is the main reason for the development of mycelium.

Ventilation installation

Human life is impossible without fresh air. But there is another reason why you need to take care of ventilation. The moisture content in the air outdoors is usually lower than indoors. The ventilation system will allow you to regulate the humidity. It is especially important when there is a swimming pool inside the basement. This will allow the saturated masses to be removed and replaced with drier ones.

You will have to choose from two systems: forced and natural. The first option implies the presence of a certain electric drive that forces air into the room and at the same time its excess is removed through an outlet. Or the fan is mounted on the outlet pipe and after a certain mass is released, a pressure difference is created, which will be the reason for the arrival of a fresh portion. Natural principle work implies the presence of inflow and outflow channels. This type of ventilation is suitable in cases where the ceiling height is less than 2 meters and the area does not exceed 50 m2. In order to implement the entire scheme, you will need to sketch a small drawing. You need to put an approximate plan of the house on it. The incoming pipe should be located as close to the ground as possible, and the outgoing pipe should be above the level of the ridge.

Parts you will need:

PVC pipe for ventilation with a diameter of 120 mm;
corners and couplings depending on the drawn diagram;
ventilation grilles and valves;
hammer drill or drilling machine;
clamps.

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

The outlet pipe is installed. It can be located with outside buildings or walk through rooms. The second option is suitable if there is an additional utility room through which the air duct can be passed. If there is no utility room, the pipe will have to be decorated. Holes are drilled in the floor and ceiling strictly opposite each other (a laser plumb line can be used for alignment). It is important to insulate the section running through the attic well. This will prevent drips on the ceiling and in the basement. The exit point through the roof is carefully sealed. Bituminous mastic or a special rubber seal is suitable for this purpose.
To locate the air duct on an outside wall, you will need to drill a hole through the foundation and secure the duct with clamps. The pipe on the outer part of the wall must be well insulated. This is necessary so that the escaping warm air does not condense and the water does not flow back into the basement. The top end is covered with a visor. To do this, you will need an additional 90° angle.
The outlet hole should be located as close to the ceiling as possible, because warm air rises.
For inflow, another hole is made in the opposite part of the room. The pipe connected to this hole should be lowered as low as possible. You can make a gap of 5 cm from the floor.
It is closed on the outside with a cover so that rainwater didn't get inside.

To drill a hole, it is not necessary to have a special installation. You can use a hammer drill and a long drill. Using a compass or template, a circle is drawn. Drilling is carried out along the line in small increments. The remaining partitions are removed with a chisel. The gap between the pipe and the slab is covered with a solution.

It is important to ensure that the pipe at the inlet and outlet is of the same diameter, this is the only way to achieve the required air exchange. But the size should not be less than ∅ 120 mm or a square profile of equivalent volume. Otherwise the system will not work properly.

Exterior works

For achievement best result insulation work must be carried out with outside. This is all due to the same humidity. It is necessary to make a good water barrier to prevent its penetration from the outside. The following materials and tools will be needed:

penoplex or polystyrene foam;
glue for insulation;
waterproofing in the form of bitumen mastic, roofing felt or bikrost;
perforator;
umbrellas for fastening sheets;
bayonet shovel.

It is advisable to carry out work when there is no precipitation. They are carried out as follows:

If there is an installed blind area, it is dismantled. Parts from it can be used as buta.
A trench is dug close to the wall to a depth of 60–80 cm (it’s good if it reaches the lower level of the foundation). Its width should be such that the installer can comfortably fit there.
The exposed part of the foundation will need to be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and, possibly, growing moss. This is done using a metal or other brush.
If there is mold growing somewhere, it must be eliminated as described above.
In this state, the area is left for a day or more so that everything dries well.
Sheets of roofing material or bikrost are prepared. Everything must be calculated so that two adjacent elements are laid with an overlap of 10 cm.
The walls are coated bitumen mastic and an insulator (bicrost or roofing felt) is glued onto it. You will need to wait for the surface to dry. This usually doesn't take too long.
Expanded polystyrene sheets are marked. You can take the ones in advance that have a groove for connecting them together.
The insulation is applied and drilled through with a hammer drill so that the drill goes to the depth required for the mounting umbrella.
The plane laid on the wall is coated with glue. Its layer should be such that there are no gaps left.
Umbrellas are driven into the holes to press the heat insulator.
If the insulation sheets do not have a selected quarter of the ends for joining, then the ends (seams) are also coated with glue.
After the entire perimeter has been passed, the trench is filled with earth and compacted well. But this should not be done to the very top. You will need to leave approximately 20 cm. This gap is intended for future formwork.
A 10 cm layer of sand is made and compacted well. This can be done with hand tools or special vibrating machines.
From edged boards or other material is exposed formwork. Its height above ground level should be about 10 cm.
A grate is placed in the middle. For its manufacture, metal or fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm. You don’t have to make it multi-tiered; just perpendicularly located rods will be enough.
Concrete is poured into the middle. A vibrating screed is used to compact it. If the top of the formwork is flat, then it can serve as a beacon.
To prevent water from flowing under the walls of the house, drainage gutters are installed.

There is another method of insulation, which will simultaneously serve as an insulator from moisture - applying polyurethane foam. But, in this case, balloon foam is not used, because... this would take a lot of time and money, but a special pneumatic unit. Preparation is carried out in the same way as described. The coating is sprayed in several layers with short intervals for drying. The advantages are less time-consuming and a very tight fit. The substance completely repeats the configuration of all protrusions and fills the cracks well. Additional finishing not required. The entire space is covered with soil. It is not recommended to use stone and glass wool, because... these materials can absorb water, which reduces their thermal insulation properties.

Interior work

If the basement will be used not only for storing unnecessary things, then you need to start tidying up the floor. Often it consists of compacted earth, because... There is no particular desire to incur additional costs during construction. If this is the case in your case, then you will have to fill the screed. To do this you will need:

If you want to make a basement workshop where you plan to carry out a large number of time, if possible, you can organize a heated floor. If it is electric, then you can lay it under the tile already at ready-made screed. In the case of water, the level will need to be increased by another size of insulation and finishing screed.

The next step will be insulating the floors. It is important to do this before finishing the walls from the inside so as not to spoil the coating. The step-by-step actions will be as follows:

The entire surface is thoroughly cleaned, all loose parts are knocked off.
Gaps and cracks are sealed using prepared glue or mortar.
As a material for insulation, you can choose penoplex, mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

The sequence of work for a polymer heat insulator will be the same as described for external walls. Finishing consists of strengthening the entire plane with reinforcing mesh, tightening it with glue and applying plaster or painting.

For mineral wool, it is advisable to make a lath. For these purposes, timber with a size of 50×30 mm is used. It is attached in increments of 40–60 cm, everything will depend on the width of the insulation sheet. Mattresses are placed in the resulting voids and attached to the ceiling using umbrellas. The final finishing will consist of installing edged boards or wooden lining. You don’t have to do it if you don’t plan to use the basement constantly.

The inside walls can be covered with rolled polystyrene foam. This will eliminate the feeling of cold when touched. There is no point in installing a large layer of insulation, because... it was done outside. Another point is the danger of mold due to the accumulation of moisture between thick foam and the wall. It is also important to install good doors if the entrance is from the street. This will prevent the entry of cold air, which leads to heat dissipation.

Insulation of a cellar that is separate from the house is done in a similar way. This will ensure the safety of food supplies even in severe frosts. Share the methods that you personally used in the comments to this article.

Video

The cellar is intended for storing food: vegetables, canned food. Therefore, it is important to create such a temperature and humidity in the underground room that the food can be kept in good condition.

At sub-zero temperatures the potatoes will freeze. Too much heat will make the vegetables limp. If moisture accumulates in the basement, rotting cannot be avoided.

We will describe how and with what materials it is better to insulate a cellar from the inside.

Let's set the task

The cellar is very important room in the house for household needs.

It is better to insulate any room during construction. But practice shows that most often finished buildings are insulated. Therefore, let's assume that we have a cellar.

Its walls are made of bricks, the role of the ceiling is reinforced concrete slab. There is no floor as such, or rather a dirt floor.

The structure is solid and reliable, however, in winter frost appears on the inner walls, and with the arrival of the first spring months, moisture condenses on all structures.

How to insulate such a structure correctly? Is it possible to insulate an underground room from the outside?

In most cases, builders advise sealing the cellar from the inside with foam boards.

This material is inexpensive and can be easily mounted on any wall. Let's try to find satisfactory answers to all the questions posed.

Determining the source of problems

There may be several reasons for the presence of water in the room. Click on photo to enlarge.

There is a lot of moisture in the cellar we described. In winter it freezes, frost forms, and in spring it condenses on the walls and ceiling. The source of moisture must be determined.

Perhaps spring meltwater is penetrating into the cellar. Then you will have to triple the waterproofing protection of the room.

Sometimes groundwater rises close to the surface. In such cases, it is impossible to do without the construction of drainage structures.

It may turn out that water penetrates through flaws in the roof after rains. The insulating structure will not help then.

First, you will need to install pipes to drain rainwater, then plaster and cover the floor slab with penetrating waterproofing.

Before starting insulation work, you should also be sure to find out the level to which the soil freezes in this area. Based on the information collected, it will be possible to determine the thickness and type of material for insulation work and waterproofing.

The best insulation option

It is best to insulate the cellar from the outside. Surely many will smile after reading this.

Basement thermal insulation diagram. Click to enlarge.

Digging out cellar walls is difficult. We'll have to turn over mountains of soil. But only walls insulated from the outside will effectively retain cold and moisture.

If insulation is glued from the inside, the brick wall will remain in the freezing zone. The water will gradually undermine the structure and will soon seep into the cellar.

Walls in such conditions will quickly become unusable.

Walls insulated from the outside will not freeze. If we lay the insulation pie with several sheets of roofing material, we will save both the insulation board and the wall itself from getting wet.

If the cellar has already been built, you will have to throw away the soil from the walls, then wait until the brick dries. It is better to start work in warm and dry weather.

Sequence of work:

remove soil;
take a break from work until the wall dries;
glue the foam boards and additionally secure them with dowels;
we lay the structure with roofing felt to protect it from moisture;
You can fill the soil back.

Insulation of internal cellar structures

It is clear that it is better to insulate any structure from the outside. But in the case of a cellar, this is not easy, so more often the underground room is insulated inside. How to insulate cellar walls from the inside? First of all, let's decide on the material.

This is how foam sheets are attached. Click on photo to enlarge.

Polystyrene foam is the number one insulation material. It has been used for insulation for more than forty years; everyone is well aware of its positive characteristics and shortcomings. It is quite possible to insulate a cellar from the inside with foam plastic slabs.

The insulation is strong enough and does not crumble. Foam is not damaged by moisture. It will not rot if condensation appears on the insulating structure. It is not necessary to isolate polystyrene foam from water using film structures.

Insulation boards are easy to install. They are glued with a special compound or screwed with dowels with wide heads (mushrooms). The slabs can be easily cut with a knife to fit in a corner or on a ledge.

The disadvantages of polystyrene foam are also known to everyone. The material is held in high esteem by rodents. Sometimes they prefer to chew on insulation even in cases where beets and potatoes are stored in the basement. Polystyrene foam burns, so it should be installed carefully near electrical wiring.

How to insulate cellar walls with foam plastic:

all cracks in the inner surface of the walls should be sealed with sealant or blown out with foam;
if there are irregularities, it is better to smooth them out; it will be difficult to evenly attach a foam board to uneven walls;
the wall should be covered with a moisture-proofing material, for example liquid rubber;
when the moisture insulation dries, we begin to glue the foam boards;
gluing begins from the bottom, the slabs are placed end-to-end, all cracks are filled with foam;
for reliability, we fasten the insulation with dowels, one fastener in the middle of the slab, the rest in the corners;
A mounting mesh is glued on top of the insulating patty, and plaster can be applied to the floor.

Ceiling and floor

Ceiling structures also need insulation. If the building is separate, it is from above that water can penetrate into the cellar. How to insulate a ceiling in a cellar?

Concrete slabs are often used for the construction of foundations and floors. Concrete is not able to insulate rooms from the cold. The concrete slab gets very hot in the summer and freezes in the winter. Water can leak through the concrete into the cellar.

Inside the concrete base there are tiny capillaries through which moisture can move. To create a warm and dry atmosphere in the cellar, the floor slab will have to be insulated and treated with moisture-proofing materials.

Sequence of work:

it is better to impregnate the concrete slab with a penetrating waterproofing compound; the substance fills capillaries and cracks in concrete and blocks the path of moisture;
when the slab dries, glue foam boards onto its surface, then additionally fix them with dowels;
mounting mesh and a layer of plaster.

If it is important for you to insulate the cellar from the inside with mineral wool, you will have to build another structure. Wooden blocks are attached to the walls or ceiling. Mineral or basalt wool mats are placed inside the sheathing. The insulation is also laid with vapor-proof films to prevent the cotton wool from getting wet.

For the floor you can suggest various options. Sawdust, expanded clay, and other insulating materials are often used.

How to reduce humidity

We told you how to properly insulate a cellar. Walls insulated from the inside will retain heat. But moisture will not be able to escape through the insulation and films. Water droplets will condense on the walls and ceiling. Rot and mold will appear. Fungal organisms may grow.

How to deal with excess moisture? Be sure to provide a hole for ventilation. The circulating air will pick up the steam and carry it outside.

One of the key stages in successfully storing vegetables and homemade products during the winter is maintaining optimal temperature in the basement. If the work on arranging and insulating the cellar is carried out correctly, its internal surfaces will not be covered with condensation, and there will be enough fresh air to keep food fresh.

From this article you will learn how to insulate a cellar with your own hands so that all internal and external surfaces are reliably protected not only from freezing, but also from moisture accumulation.

We insulate the cellar from freezing with our own hands

Owners of dachas, personal plots and private houses have the opportunity to equip their own structure for storing various food supplies, preparations, and harvested crops. To create an optimal microclimate in the basement, it is necessary to properly equip it. After all, an insulated cellar is a guarantee that the entire harvest will be preserved intact, regardless of the time of year.

Note: When deciding how to insulate a basement, you should take into account its type: above-ground, buried or underground. So, the easiest way to insulate is ground-based, since thermal insulation work possible both inside and outside this structure. Buried storage needs not only thermal insulation, but also waterproofing of surfaces. Finally, the most advantageous, from the point of view of operation, is bulk (underground), which maintains a constant positive temperature well throughout the year.

Despite the variety of storage types, their structures remain unchanged: roof, floor, ceiling. Therefore, when carrying out thermal insulation work, all of the above-mentioned surfaces are insulated, taking into account the features of this type(picture 1).

Figure 1. Main types of cellars (from left to right): underground, above-ground and semi-buried

For example, when insulating an above-ground storage facility, the main attention is focused on the thermal insulation of the walls and roof, and when performing external work, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is used. Thermal insulation of a buried structure is preceded by waterproofing work, since there is a risk of flooding of such a storage facility. The most labor-intensive is the insulation of an underground cellar, since it involves partial removal of the soil surrounding the roof and walls, followed by the installation of an additional protective barrier against moisture.

Waterproofing surfaces: walls, roofs or doors

You should know that the deeper the cellar is in the ground, the higher the requirements for its waterproofing (Figure 2). If it is done correctly at the construction stage, then it can cost little. On the contrary, it is much more difficult to repair a damp room. Therefore, when starting construction, take an interest in the level of groundwater and the depth of soil freezing in the cold season.

Note: If the groundwater level is low, it will be enough to make a concrete floor, plaster the walls and whitewash them. Roofing felt can be used as waterproofing. If groundwater comes close to the soil surface, it will be necessary to plaster the walls from the outside and inside, paste them with roofing felt based on bitumen mastic in 3-4 layers, and press the roofing felt against a red brick wall. For additional protection, a 20-centimeter layer of crumpled fatty clay is applied to the brick wall. If the basement is located on sandy, drainable soil, it cement walls should be covered with two layers of bitumen mastics and immediately covered with coarse sand.

Recessed structures are subject to additional waterproofing before thermal insulation work is carried out. This is explained by the fact that the walls of such storage facilities are half located in the ground and, therefore, there is a risk of flooding with groundwater. Therefore, in order to exclude this possibility of flooding, it is necessary to clear the underground part of the walls from the soil, treat them with a waterproofing solution or cover them with roofing felt.

Figure 2. Stages of cellar waterproofing

Then rigid insulation or polyurethane foam is laid, re-wrapped with roofing felt and covered with soil. In addition, in order to minimize the effect of moisture on the storage, it is recommended to install a drainage system.

You will find more information about basement waterproofing in the video.

How to insulate a cellar from the inside against freezing

To protect the interior of a room from freezing, insulation is carried out on its walls, ceiling, floor and door, that is, all surfaces of the structure through which heat loss is possible. In this case, materials such as expanded clay, roofing felt, and rigid insulation are used.

Let's take a closer look at the features of insulation of various internal surfaces of the storage facility.

Practice shows that the most the best option from the point of view of price-quality ratio, is floor insulation using expanded clay.

The technology includes several steps(Figure 3):

The hardened concrete floor with exposed beacons is covered with a layer of expanded clay gravel with a fraction of 5-20 mm (the thickness of the layer depends on the expected load on the floor).
The expanded clay layer is covered with a vapor barrier film with its exit to interior wall. In this case, the height of the overlap must correspond to the height of the backfill.
Beacons begin to be installed along the film, the first of which should be at a distance of 30-40 cm from the wall, and all subsequent ones - at a distance that corresponds to the length of the rule that will be used to level the screed.
By installed beacons a reinforced screed is poured, the thickness of which is determined by the expected load.

Figure 3. Scheme of floor insulation in a home basement

Sometimes the bulk floor is insulated with sand and crushed stone. In this case, the floor is first filled with hot bitumen, which acts as waterproofing. Then a crushed stone-sand cushion is laid on it and carefully compacted. In this case, the layer of crushed stone is 10 cm, and the layer of sand is 5 cm. Then the surface of the pillow is covered with rigid insulation (penoplex, sheets of expanded polystyrene), which is filled with reinforced concrete screed.

How to insulate a ceiling in a cellar

Since the ceiling of a recessed cellar is considered the most vulnerable place in terms of heat loss, it is recommended to insulate it in two layers.

In this case, thermal insulation work is carried out in the following sequence(Figure 4):

Ceiling plaster;
Treatment with penetrating waterproofing primer concrete slabs floors or wooden beams;
Installation of a layer of rigid insulation;
Covering the heat-insulating layer with a mounting mesh.

Figure 4. Features of ceiling insulation in the basement

At the final stage, the ceiling must be whitewashed with lime with the addition of a small amount of copper sulfate.

Wall insulation

Insulating basement walls is a rather labor-intensive process, since it involves preparatory work (Figure 5). So, first of all, the room must be emptied of its contents, and all shelves and racks must be dismantled. Then you need to inspect the walls for defects and eliminate all protrusions and cracks by knocking them down or foaming them. Such preparatory work must be carried out carefully, since remaining irregularities significantly affect the quality of insulation installation.

Figure 5. DIY wall insulation scheme

After leveling the walls, work is carried out to waterproof them by applying a special mastic. Only after this can you begin installing the foam using dowels or glue. You should know that fastening the insulation begins from the bottom row and moves upward. In this case, in each next row the foam is shifted by half of its sheet. The joints of the sheets are blown with foam, the insulated surface is covered with a polymer mesh and plastered.

How to make an insulated cellar door

If the door to the cellar is on outdoors, it also needs to be insulated. The thermal insulation procedure is carried out using modern rigid insulation, which is fixed to the door and sheathed natural wood, plywood or plastic.

Figure 6. Methods for insulating a cellar lid

Be sure to pay attention to the presence of gaps between the door and the door frame. You may need to install a special door seal. In addition, check whether the door can open spontaneously, because in this case all your attempts to retain heat will be in vain.

Insulation of the cover (hatch) can be done using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam sheets, which are easily attached to the surface with glue. Additionally, they can be decorated with plastic or wood (Figure 6).

It would be a good idea to check how tightly the lid adheres to the inlet. Any gaps found can be closed by installing door seal tape on the lid.

Do-it-yourself materials for basement insulation

The choice of thermal insulation material is very important for carrying out high-quality insulation basement Since the modern construction market is oversaturated various kinds materials, we will tell you about the most popular among them, which are acceptable not only in quality, but also in price (Figure 7).

Styrofoam

The most popular insulation material is polystyrene foam, which has been used in construction for quite a long time and is valued for its cheapness, simplicity and quality. However, despite all the advantages, polystyrene foam is not relevant for insulating basements, since it is unable to properly protect the underground room from cold and moisture. In addition, moisture falling on the foam and freezing on its surface destroys this material. Therefore, the use of foam plastic in basements is impossible without the use of hydro- and vapor barrier films.

Based on the above, we can conclude that polystyrene foam as a thermal insulation material can only be used to insulate ceilings in underground storage facilities.

Mineral wool and fiberglass

One of the most popular building materials is mineral wool. Having a large list of advantages, this material is also accessible because it has a low price. Mineral wool is fire-resistant and non-hygroscopic, vapor permeable and environmentally friendly. It has low thermal conductivity and high sound insulation. This construction material durable and strong, easy to install on any surface with different configurations. Therefore, it can be recommended for thermal insulation work.

When working with mineral wool, you should take care of respiratory protection, because small particles of this material rise into the air like dust. Inhalation of such dust by a person is not at all good for his health. In addition, mineral wool releases phenol, which is also harmful to the human body. Therefore, when working with mineral wool, it is recommended to use a respirator and cover the surface insulated with it with a vapor-proof polyvinyl chloride film.

Figure 7. Types of insulation for the cellar: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam

Glass wool is a type of mineral wool. It is an elastic and fairly durable material consisting of fragile glass threads. These threads, when broken, dig into the skin and eyes, injuring them. Therefore, when working with glass wool, precautions should be taken: wear gloves, goggles, a respirator, and work clothes with long sleeves.

Polyurethane foam

The most popular thermal insulation material is polyurethane foam (PPU). It gained high popularity due to its advantages, including: complete protection from moisture, guaranteed tightness of the room, biological neutrality.

Since polyurethane foam is applied to the surface in a monolithic layer that hardens quickly, it has no seams or joints. Even with direct contact with moisture, this material does not rot or mold. Polyurethane foam can be used for both interior and exterior use.

The only disadvantage of using polyurethane foam is the method of its application, since this requires a high-pressure installation, which only construction companies can afford. However, this drawback is insignificant compared to the achieved effect.

How to ventilate a cellar during insulation

The home cellar cannot do without this important element its design as a ventilation system (Figure 8). It is especially relevant for insulated cellars, since due to constant above-zero temperatures in storage rooms, air humidity can increase and, accordingly, mold can develop. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to provide ventilation openings during construction. As a rule, they are closed in winter and left open the rest of the time.

Figure 8. Scheme for arranging ventilation in the cellar with your own hands

For example, supply and exhaust ventilation can provide high-quality inflow and outflow of fresh air, but about normal temperature conditions need to be taken care of in other ways. For example, it is recommended to insulate ventilation duct mineral wool and cover it with waterproofing material. In this case, the ventilation system will work efficiently and smoothly, and a constant comfortable temperature will be maintained in the cellar.

If you have a cellar, and the temperature in it during the cold season drops below the maximum level, then you need to seriously consider insulating the room. It may seem that this procedure is very complicated, but in fact all the work can take no more than one day (this includes breaks for lunch and rest).

Insulated cellar

How to insulate a cellar from the inside against freezing:

Naturally, to perform such a task you need to stock up on a certain set of tools. In particular, you will need a tape measure (you can also use a regular folding meter), a cutter (the teeth should be as large as possible), nails and a hammer, insulation (it is better to use glass wool coated with special protection), protective equipment (mask, gloves), tape, polyethylene and strong thread (nylon or nylon).

Once everything is prepared, you can begin work. It is better to use material that is in a special cladding as insulation. This is caused not only by the ease of installation, but also by the increased efficiency of such insulation. It is best that the outer coating of the heat-insulating layer has protective film, preventing the process of vaporization. But this is true if other insulation materials are installed. Special attention You need to pay attention to the direction of the film, which should be turned towards the ceiling.

To properly insulate a room, the material must be cut into small panels so that they are slightly wider than the interval between the beams (this depends on the design of the basement). You need to make the same amount of allowance for the length.

If there is any switching in the basement, for example, electrical wiring, then it is advisable to lay all wires and cable products in special non-flammable boxes or casings (the use of a metal armored hose is often justified). This approach will eliminate the possibility of contact between insulation and electrical wiring, and, therefore, reduce the likelihood of a fire.

Cellar insulation scheme

If there are any obstacles in the room, they should be bypassed by cutting the insulation. It is best to ensure that the thermal insulation is solid. In this case, no voids should remain that are filled with insulation.

It is also necessary to consider how to attach the insulation to the ceiling. In most cases, the pressure created between the beams and the material itself is sufficient (a small margin was left during the cutting process). If the calculations fail, then you can stretch strong threads across the beams, which will hold the heat-insulating material well.

The floor covering must be insulated with polyethylene. In this case, the cut sheets must be secured together with adhesive tape. For greater reliability, it is advisable to press down the edges of the panel with bricks. This approach will prevent moisture from entering the basement. Consequently, there will be less moisture in the living rooms, which are located directly above the basement.

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When to choose expanded clay
Preparation is an important step
Methods for insulating floors with expanded clay
Recommendations for using expanded clay
Which waterproofing to choose

Expanded clay successfully copes with many tasks in construction and repair. More often it is used when installing floors for heat and sound insulation, but the strength, durability and low cost of the material are also used for insulating ceilings and walls.

How to insulate a cellar from the inside against freezing

Expanded clay as a floor insulation can be used in different ways: as part of a sand-cement screed or as a dry backfill. Universal material leaves no chance for competitors - it is used for constructing subfloors on any base: concrete, wood and even on the ground.

Fans of natural materials choose expanded clay, because expanded clay contains no chemical ingredients. This is an absolutely natural material, it is harmless to health, as it is produced from clay by firing.

Under the influence of temperature (1000°C), the clay acquires a porous structure, and the technology of rolling in a kiln drum gives the material the shape of rounded fragments, which are convenient to work with and shape required thickness layer in the floor sandwich.

When to choose expanded clay

Range of thermal insulating materials for modern market so large that it can be difficult to stop at just one. However, it is worth knowing the full range of properties of this unique material in order to understand that there is no better option except for insulating the floor with expanded clay.

A list of properties that make this simple material a leader among its competitors:

Low thermal conductivity - the porous material contains air bubbles, which provide high-quality thermal insulation. A 10 cm layer of expanded clay exceeds similar thermal conductivity parameters wooden surface 3 times, and brickwork 10 times.
Sound insulation - a property in demand in apartments multi-storey buildings, the expanded clay floor will serve as a reliable barrier to the penetration of noise from neighbors below, while simultaneously preventing the spread of sounds in the opposite direction.
The strength of the material allows it to be used in the bottom layer of the floor pie without additional support structures (expanded clay is available different brands strength from 250 to 600).
Resistance to rot and fungi, mold (unlike wood-based materials) increases the service life of the floor and its durability.
Chemical inertness - expanded clay is a natural material, does not release any substances into the environment, and is also resistant to chemicals.
Heat resistance - quality is relevant in terms of fire safety.
Frost resistance - expanded clay does not lose its properties at extremely low temperatures.
Light weight - allows you to insulate the floor with expanded clay under a screed in houses where a large load on the floors is undesirable (read: “Insulating the floor under a screed - practical tips”).
The granular fraction of the material makes it easy to work with - one person who does not have construction skills can handle the backfill.
Low cost is an additional bonus for a material that has a range of excellent qualities.

The only disadvantage of expanded clay is its ability to retain moisture for a long time.

This drawback can be easily mitigated by following the technology of installing a floor with expanded clay and carefully gluing the waterproofing layer.

Preparation is an important step

Preparing the base for filling with expanded clay begins with cleaning the surface.

A clean base is assessed for curvature and differences in plane. This is done in order to see what layer of expanded clay is needed to insulate the floor, level the surface and calculate the required amount of material.

The optimal layer thickness is 80 - 100 mm; to determine the required number of granules, make a mark on the wall to a height of 8 cm at the highest point of the room, from which then, using a level, mark a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room.

The average backfill height is obtained by measuring the distance to the horizontal line in several places, which is then divided by the number of measurements. So, if three measurements are made with values of 10, 15, 8 cm, then the average height of the backfill will be (10 + 15 + 8): 3 = 11 cm. Then the area of the room (width x length) is multiplied by the height (average value) obtained the number indicates how much expanded clay is needed to insulate the floor of this room.

Preparation itself comes down to the following steps:

Sealing cracks and potholes with mortar (for concrete floors).
Waterproofing the base.
To do this, use any available technologies and materials: special mastic, preparation of a waterproofing solution from polymer dry mixtures. If the floor is insulated with expanded clay on the ground, then optimal solution will polyethylene film(not thinner than 100 microns) or rolled material (roofing felt). Read also: “How to make a heated floor on the ground - a step-by-step guide.”
The device of beacons - metal profiles set according to the level and secure with a solution.

Note: beacons are not needed (p.

3), if dry insulation of the floor with expanded clay is carried out along the joists of the old floor, which are not planned to be dismantled, but are going to be used for laying a new wooden covering

Methods for insulating floors with expanded clay

There are several ways to insulate and level a floor with expanded clay. The choice is made based on the features:

Surfaces;
Permissible load on the base;
Room assignments.

Thus, a dry expanded clay cushion is lighter than an expanded clay screed of the same thickness.

The thermal insulation properties of dry expanded clay are also higher, but the surface strength and ability to withstand loads are better for expanded clay concrete floors constructed using the “wet” method of preparing the solution.

Dry backfill for wooden floors

Wooden floors are laid on logs - horizontally located bars. If, during the process of dismantling the old wooden floor, it turns out that the joists are well preserved and do not require replacement, then you should not remove them, adding more work to yourself.

In this case, it is easier to insulate the floor with expanded clay along the joists.

To do this, waterproofing is laid in the spaces between the joists. Then a layer of expanded clay is poured, on which a foil vapor barrier is laid. For additional warmth, you can put another layer of other insulation on top (foam plastic, expanded polystyrene) flush with the top edge of the log.

Then a wooden floor is laid, the slats of which are nailed to the joists. Read also: “Floor insulation in wooden house below - how to make and what to use.”

If it is planned to completely dismantle the wooden floor and install a concrete screed, for subsequent finishing with a decorative coating (tiles, laminate), care should be taken about the beacons.

Without correctly aligned guides, you will not be able to obtain the level surface needed for flooring. A layer of dry expanded clay is poured with cement laitance to fix the granules. After the milk has hardened, the surface is leveled along the beacons with a cement-sand mortar.

How to insulate a floor with expanded clay sufficiently It is not always possible (in cold regions when laying on the ground), an additional layer of foam insulation is included in the floor cake.

Sheets of foam plastic are glued to an expanded clay cushion and covered with a screed (read: “Insulating the floor with foam plastic under a screed - installation instructions”).

A similar technology is used for insulation and soundproofing of floors in apartments with concrete foundations.

A necessary condition is high ceilings. If the house has low ceilings, then a layer of expanded clay with a screed will make them even lower, which will affect the comfort of living. In this case, it is better to consider options with other materials, which will most likely cost more, but will not steal space.

Dry and fast method - clean job

The ease of laying such a floor allows you to do it yourself and quickly. Ideal for an apartment in multi-storey building, since the weight of the structure is light, no mixing of the screed mortar is required.

Operating procedure:

Free the floor from debris and dust.
Lay a waterproofing layer. If the waterproofing is of a liquid, flowing consistency (mastic, cement-polymer mortar), then cracks and crevices are first covered to prevent liquid from flowing into the floors.
Beacons are installed.
Expanded clay is poured in, and it is carefully compacted along the way.
Lay sheets of plywood (chipboard, OSB) in two layers.
The first layer is fastened together with glue, the second is screwed to the lower panels with self-tapping screws.

The dry base of such a floor is suitable for finishing with any decorative coatings: from linoleum to laminate.

Expanded clay is produced in several strength classes and 4 types of granule sizes, so inexperienced home craftsmen often ask: “which expanded clay is best for floor insulation?” the best protection by cold.

You should know that despite the fact that the heat-saving qualities of expanded clay of a large fraction are higher, a dry screed must be installed from a mixture of materials with different sizes.

This will provide a solid base in which small granules will fill the space between large ones, ensuring dense and durable coating. For apartments, medium (1 - 2 cm) and fine gravel (0.5 - 1 cm) are usually used.

Floor installation with expanded clay concrete screed

Expanded clay as a floor insulation material in a wooden house has no competitors due to its versatility.

It can be used as an additive in cement-sand screed for installing a concrete floor in outbuildings: garage, bathhouse. Unlike a dry base, expanded clay concrete screed has increased strength, wear resistance while maintaining good thermal insulation qualities.

The construction of the floor using the “wet method” consists in the fact that on the prepared in the usual way the surface is laid out with an aqueous solution prepared from sand, cement, expanded clay (ratio 2: 1: 3). As the screed is laid out, it is “slammed down” with a heavy floor polisher or a special tamper.

This will allow you to get a smooth surface without roughness formed by protruding expanded clay granules.

Nuances you need to know when insulating a floor with expanded clay with your own hands:

If the heat-saving effect is a priority, then dry expanded clay is used.
A dry pillow retains heat better.
The technology of the dry method depends on which layer of expanded clay for floor insulation is sufficient in specific conditions. If the thickness of the pillow is large (more than 10 cm), then it is worth pouring two layers, separating them with gypsum board sheets.
plywood, etc. This design will ensure the stability of the coating.
To secure the beacons, you can add gypsum or alabaster to the solution - this will speed up the setting and allow you to begin work on filling the expanded clay immediately after setting the guides.
Use of granules different sizes provides better grip and, accordingly, greater strength.
Reinforcing the expanded clay layer with a metal mesh increases the reliability and strength of the structure.
The expanded clay-concrete screed reaches its final strength after 4 weeks, so you should not subject it to excessive loads right away, despite the fact that it hardens literally on the second day.

Insulating a wooden floor with expanded clay or leveling the concrete base in an apartment with your own hands will save money.

They can be used for expensive decorative coating, which will become an interior decoration and a magnificent background for home photos and videos.

Which waterproofing to choose

The price range of materials in this category is as wide as their variety:

Bitumen mastics;
Polymer mixtures;
Rubber hydraulic barriers;
Polyethylene film;
Roll materials of various compositions.

When choosing waterproofing that suits your financial capabilities, it is worth remembering that:

Liquid mixtures and mastics require clean and solid foundation, and sometimes priming.
After all, they must form reliable adhesion to the surface.
Rolled materials are laid freely, so they are indispensable for waterproofing expanded clay laid on the ground. It is necessary to ensure that the strips overlap by at least 10 cm; for some types of waterproofing of this group, manufacturers recommend gluing the overlapped edges of the strips. Read also: “How to make expanded clay floors with your own hands.”

Silica gel granules are another waterproofing option.

It's being scattered thin layer(1 cm) under expanded clay or mixed with dry backfill at the rate of 1 to 10. An excellent absorbent is not popular due to its flammability, chemical composition, and explosion hazard.

However, under certain conditions (a thick floor cake with a reliable barrier to silica gel vapors), the method has a right to exist.

Our cellar is located in a separate shed.

How to insulate a cellar with polystyrene foam?

The walls are bricks and blocks, the ceiling is reinforced concrete floor, it is also the floor in the barn. The trouble is that in cold weather condensation and frost appear on the ceiling, which means the vegetables freeze slightly. How to insulate a cellar faster and more affordably?

O. Meshcheryakov Chelyabinsk region.

The reinforced concrete ceiling of the cellar must be lined with slab insulation. It can be laid along the walls of the cellar from the outside, digging them to the depth of freezing of the soil, this is quite labor-intensive. Another option is to dig the insulation horizontally about 1 m on each side, close to the walls.

Which, of course, is more difficult. I would recommend making slab thermal insulation from polysterol concrete slabs with a thickness of 150-200 mm, but no more, raising, of course, the floor in the utility room. But since polystyrene concrete (as well as foam plastic, which can also be used to insulate a cellar) has relatively low structural strength, the wooden floor above the insulation is installed so that there is no pressure on the heat-insulating layer.

If you decide to use foam, take steps to keep mice out of it, as they can quickly turn the foam into a pile of useless crumbs.

You can also use slabs of heat-insulating cellular concrete of the same thickness.

However, it should be remembered that cellular concrete, as a rule, is hygroscopic, intensively absorbs moisture, including from the air, while losing its heat-shielding properties. Therefore, they need to be waterproofed very carefully and reliably.

And one more thing: I do not recommend using slag or glass wool as insulation. It will quickly become damp, thicken and completely lose its heat-protective properties.

You also need to take care of good ventilation.

If there is one, check and clean it. If it didn’t exist, then do it in such a way that there would be two pipes leading from the cellar, one at floor level, the second near the ceiling. Thus, the air in the cellar does not stagnate, the temperature is the same, and all moisture evaporates.

O. Meshcheryakov Chelyabinsk region.

A. ANDREEV (Maksimych), builder

Nowadays, when you find canned goods and fresh vegetables on the shelves at any time of the year, the basement no longer plays such a role. important role. However, many are trying to preserve the harvest harvested on their own private land, make more supplies for the winter and, thus, provide the house with a good and dry basement.

For long-term storage of vegetables, it is important that the basement does not have high humidity and the temperature is maintained at 2-5 degrees.

In addition, the basement is protected from rodents. Think about how to properly insulate a basement and can the exterior be done?

There are several options for equipping a basement.

Basement heating located in the basement

The basement is planned to be installed in the basement of a house under construction.

In this case, waterproofing of walls and floors, as well as heating of the foundation walls must be taken into account during the construction phase. To ensure everything is in order, make sure that the groundwater does not rise above the level of the basement floor each spring (ask neighbors who have already built one).

In any case, firstly, the walls are treated with a waterproofing compound, and the upper part is covered with foam or expanded polystyrene.

The advantages of polystyrene foam include its resistance to fungi, mold, and rot.

He also has a lot technical advantages: easy to process, layout, very attractive price. The disadvantages include its “powerlessness” against rodents.

If it was built in a basement but was not properly insulated during construction and is now starting to cry, the best solution its insulation remains on the outside. Someone will exclaim: “But this is a lot of work!” Yes, it takes a lot of soil to dig out basement walls, then wait for the brick or concrete to burn and then warm up.

But this is the only way you can achieve the greatest effect.

However, if the heater is attached to the inside, the outside wall brick wall exposed to freezing or water. Once the brick breaks, water will still fall into the basement. If the walls are insulated from the outside, they do not freeze; the dew point remains in the insulation area.

The part of the insulating layer filled with soil is also covered with bitumen mastic, the one that is projected onto the base is covered with plaster or other suitable materials.

Characteristics of foundation insulation and foundation from the inside

This also needs to be done in a timely manner around the perimeter of the constructed house to make them blind. This will not only be convenient and beautiful, but also protect the foundation of the house from water entering and from drowning.

Basement Warming

If the size of the plot and the groundwater level allow, it is more advisable to build a basement separately from the house. Because its upper part can, for example, be used as landscape design like an alpine hill.

How to insulate a basement if there is condensation?

A common cause of condensation is poor waterproofing of the ceiling or arch above the stairs.

As you know, the temperature of the earth at a depth of three meters completely maintains the plus temperature, constant throughout the year.

This is a property that has always been used by farmers who stored supplies in underground benches. To heat a foundation from above, peat was the most commonly used because it generates heat better and rodents don't want to sit in it. The safe deposits on the stairs were located on the floor 40-50 cm, the basement was only 2-3 meters from the ground. This provided the optimal temperature for storing vegetables.

However, if the surface of the blocks is not waterproof, there is a possibility of water flow from the water.

In such cases, experts recommend the following types activities. The floor must be removed to clean the brick (concrete) surfaces. Prepare them with a solution of bitumen with diesel fuel(1:3), then use two layers of hot bitumen on top.

The cheapest insulation method is to use sawdust-cement coating.

The sawdust is moistened with water, mixed with cement (the ratio is one part cement and 8 parts sawdust), laid in a layer of 30-40 cm and compressed well.

After a few days, when the mixture is dried, you get cement screed made of cement and sand (1: 4) and applied to a layer of 2.5 cm. To prevent freezing of the corners of the foundation, 40 cm of insulation is used on all side walls.

Within four days the screed will be ready to be covered with roofing felt. By gluing roofing paper with bitumen, you can fill the basement floor. The basement door should also be insulated.

And most importantly, don't forget about proper ventilation. The basement must have two pipes (for inflow and outflow).

20.1.2014 at 18:01

Each summer cottage has a storage room vegetables and preserves. In order for food to be preserved for a long time, the cellar must be insulated.

This is often done during construction.

Today, as practice has shown, the owners are insulating the underground premises after a long period of use.

After such work, the temperature and humidity in the cellar reaches a level at which the food will not spoil for a long time. This article will tell you in detail about how to insulate a cellar from the inside.

Why do you need to insulate the cellar?

No house is complete without an underground space called a basement or cellar.

How and with what is basement insulation done?

It is the one that preserves fresh and canned products with high quality and for a long time.

If moisture accumulates there in the summer, the vegetables will soon rot, and the walls will become covered with frost in winter. Then, with the arrival of spring, moisture condenses on the surface.

Also, excessive phlegm leads to the appearance of fungi and mold. To prevent all unwanted nuances, insulation of the cellar is inevitable.

In general, basement insulation has many advantages:

Extends the service life of the entire building;
Strengthens the foundation;
Preserves the integrity of vegetables;
Prevents the appearance of fungi and mold;
Will protect the room from groundwater.

As a rule, ready-made buildings are insulated, so it is necessary to select a high-quality thermal insulation material.

Choice of insulation

The modern market provides a wide selection of insulation materials.

The buyer, as a rule, selects a budget option. Thermal insulation material must be of high quality, reliable, and meet all standards.

Also, it must qualitatively meet such requirements as: resistance to moisture, low thermal conductivity, light weight, convenient shapes and sizes, serve for as long as possible, and withstand soil pressure efficiently.

Among the options on the construction market, some insulation options can be noted:

Extruded polystyrene foam;
Mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
Penofol;
Glass wool;
Polyurethane foam.

Penoplex is considered one of the best.

He has all the above listed qualities. The product is produced in the form of slabs that are light in weight.

They are simple and convenient to work with. Extruded polystyrene foam does not rot and retains its qualities and properties for a long time. Sheets are conveniently cut without evaporating harmful substances.

Mineral wool also fits well. The rolls in which the material is wound are easy to fix on the walls. But the product has some nuances. When wet, mineral wool loses its previous shape and can ignite.

Video tips:

Glass wool is similar in its properties to mineral wool.

It is made from thin glass fibers. When working with such material, you should be careful; small particles can get into the respiratory tract and mucous membranes of the eyes.

The advantage of glass wool is its affordable price.

Polystyrene foam is not very suitable for insulating a cellar from the inside.

Unlike penoplex, it absorbs moisture. This material non-flammable, environmentally friendly, and has minimal cost.

Polyurethane foam is ideal for thermal insulation of underground rooms.

It is durable, strong, and covers the surface easily. This material is convenient for sealing inaccessible places on the wall.

Polyurethane foam reaches a solid layer in 25 seconds. After work, the surface becomes perfectly smooth, and the room is dry and comfortable.

This substance will require skilled installation, that is, it will be difficult to insulate walls with it yourself.

The high price is unaffordable for many consumers.

Preparatory work

Each construction task will require careful preparation of the premises, tools, and materials. First, measure the area of the room. Then a sufficient amount of thermal insulation product is purchased.

Next, level the floor and walls, removing any unevenness. Walls, ceiling, floor are cleaned of dirt. If there are cracks on the surface, they are sealed with foam or sealant.

The protrusions from these products are removed with a knife.

One of the mandatory procedures before insulation is surface treatment against fungi. To do this, the walls and ceiling are treated with antiseptics. It is advisable to provide ventilation.

Installation sequence

After cleaning the surface, you can begin insulation.

If you don’t know how to insulate a cellar from the inside, you should seek help from a specialist or consult with builders.

First, waterproofing is carried out. It will be roofing felt or polyvinyl chloride film. After which the heat insulator is installed. Styrofoam will be convenient and suitable.

Its thickness should be 5 cm.

A few drops of glue are applied to the plate and pressed to the surface. To ensure the reliability of the layer, they are secured with special dowels. The joints are treated with construction foam.

After that, the insulated walls are smeared with glue and a mesh is laid. After complete drying, the result is sanded with appropriate tools.

Video to help:

There will be in the cellar optimal temperature(+3-4 degrees) for quality storage vegetables

The walls will always be dry, free of mold, moisture and dampness. During the work, the main thing is to follow the insulation installation technology.

Insulation of the cellar from the inside

Fedor Bogdanovich, Moscow asks a question: Recently moved to a private house, we store vegetables in the cellar outside. I noticed that his door freezes when it’s cold outside (below -15 degrees). Someone tell me what and how to insulate the cellar lid.

Good afternoon. If the cellar is on the street, then there should be insulation on the hatch, it’s just that it’s already worn out or torn off or damaged in some place.

Look at what material is used for insulation. It can be glass wool, polystyrene foam, mineral wool. Upon inspection, you will be able to find a place where you need to glue or replace the insulation in order to survive until spring, when it will be possible to make a full repair of the hatch.

If the temperature in the region where you live rarely falls below -15°C, then you can use cotton wool as protection against the cold.

In areas with lower temperatures, it is better to use polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. The work should be done in the spring in dry weather.

If the insulation on the hatch is old or does not suit the climate, then you must first remove it. To do this, you will need a spatula, a puller and other tools that may be required for dismantling. Take the ones you have and which ones are more convenient to use.

To insulate a hatch with your own hands, you will need direct insulation in rolls, tiles or aerosol, moisture-proof materials, a hammer and nails or screws and a drill, polyurethane foam, a sheet of plywood, wooden block, saw, roulette.

Before insulating the cellar lid, you need to measure it using a tape measure and cut out the necessary parts from a block of wood, plywood and insulation (if polystyrene). Then you need to attach moisture protection. This can be polyethylene film, polyurethane foam (spray material).

Pickled apples all year round or insulating your beloved aunt’s cellar. Guide to internal thermal insulation of a cellar from freezing What to do if the basement under the barn freezes

Features of the cellar microclimate

Choosing the right material

Internal insulation technology

Preparatory stage

Ceiling

Floor

Walls

External insulation technology

Advantages of the method

Surface waterproofing

Installation of thermal insulation

Conclusion

Why is this necessary?

Preparation

Ventilation installation

Exterior works

Interior work

Video

Let's set the task

Determining the source of problems

The best insulation option

Insulation of internal cellar structures

Ceiling and floor

How to reduce humidity

We insulate the cellar from freezing with our own hands

Waterproofing surfaces: walls, roofs or doors

How to insulate a cellar from the inside against freezing

How to insulate a ceiling in a cellar

Wall insulation

How to make an insulated cellar door

Do-it-yourself materials for basement insulation

Styrofoam

Mineral wool and fiberglass

Polyurethane foam

How to ventilate a cellar during insulation

How to insulate a cellar from the inside against freezing:

How to insulate a cellar from the inside against freezing

When to choose expanded clay

Preparation is an important step

Methods for insulating floors with expanded clay

Dry backfill for wooden floors

Dry and fast method - clean job

Floor installation with expanded clay concrete screed

Which waterproofing to choose

How to insulate a cellar with polystyrene foam?

Basement heating located in the basement

Characteristics of foundation insulation and foundation from the inside

Basement Warming

Why do you need to insulate the cellar?

How and with what is basement insulation done?

Choice of insulation

The advantage of glass wool is its affordable price.

Preparatory work

Installation sequence

Insulation of the cellar from the inside

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