Why doesn't paniculate hydrangea turn pink? Soil acidification is not carried out

WHY HYDRANGEA DOESN'T BLOW Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What secrets do those who achieve impressive disclosure of a wide palette of colors know? But you don’t need to know much to help a hydrangea bush bring a touch of French charm to your garden. Flower growers who have studied the preferences of this plant find caring for it easy and quite pleasant. The only question is whether to join their number or leave the study of the bush for others. Why hydrangea does not bloom Among the many reasons for the lack of flowers in a hydrangea bush, there are 5 main ones, which most often occur in the former CIS: Lack of watering. The botanical name of the shrub “hydrangea” translated from Greek means “vessel of water”. It is worth remembering that love of moisture is the main feature of the “character” of hydrangea. Weakened root system. If the plant was recently planted, it will need time to strengthen and grow, regardless of whether it was purchased “in bloom” or not. Trimming the top of last year's shoots. Old varieties of large-leaved garden hydrangea bloom exclusively in the upper part of the shoots that grew in the past year. Improper pruning of the bush leads to the fact that the plant cannot gather its strength and bloom for many years. Damage to flower buds. Flower buds begin to form in the fall, so severe frosts in snowless winters or frosts in early spring are able to cancel the magnificent riot of colors in the coming year. Lack of acclimatization. Gardening organizations offer such a large number of varieties that it is tempting to buy a few special ones. beautiful bushes in bloom. But there’s just a “small detail” that sellers don’t always mention: are all the bushes suitable for the given climate in the surrounding area? If the seedlings initially grew in a greenhouse and love a lot of warmth and light, then the short northern summer does not give them the opportunity to lay flower buds. A shrub can grow, but never bloom. Large-leaved hydrangea: planting and care Selecting a location. Most flower varieties take root in sunny or semi-shaded places on well-drained fertile soils. If the soil does not meet the requirements, it is improved as much as possible. The soil. An ideal mixture of leaf soil, humus, sand and peat in proportions 2:2:1:1. Landing. The planting hole should be 2 times larger than the root ball of the seedling. Several shovels of compost, organic fertilizers, urea, potassium sulfate and granulated superphosphate are poured into the bottom. After this, the plant is not fed for 2 years. Hydrangeas are planted either singly or in groups at a distance of 1-1.5 m between bushes. Tree trunk circles are mulched with peat, sawdust or pine needles (a layer about 6 cm thick). Watering. This is done once a week, and in hot weather it can be done more often, provided that the water does not stagnate on the surface. Additional care. Loosening the soil and weeding is carried out along with watering. Trimming. Happens in the spring. Damaged, dried out, old shoots are trimmed without shortening the remaining shoots in order to leave flower buds on the bush. How to grow hydrangea with other plants The hydrangea bush grows with a dense spreading crown, so only other shrubs and trees can be close neighbors. To add special beauty to the landscape, you can opt for holly or rhododendrons. The lower tier is filled with hosta or ferns. To obtain a green carpet on the ground that smoothly turns into a lush, rounded shrub, you can plant periwinkle and common ivy. How to feed hydrangea better development shrubs need to regularly replenish the soil with various mixtures. In the spring, during the active decade of growth, it is suitable to add 20-25 g of urea, 30-40 g of potassium sulfate and 30-40 g of superphosphate per 1 sq.m. to the soil. As soon as the buds appear, a second feeding is carried out with superphosphates (50-80 g) and potassium sulfate (40-50 g). IN summer period time and at the beginning of autumn, you can feed the hydrangea 1-2 more times with complex mineral fertilizers according to the instructions on the package. Known pests and diseases of hydrangea The shrub is resistant to various pests, so rare cases of diseases are perceived with surprise and slight panic. However, for every problem there is sure to be a proven solution: Mosaic leaf disease is aimed at destroying the leaves and shoots of hydrangea. The viral disease manifests itself in the form of yellow, mosaic-shaped spots on the leaves (less commonly, in the form of stripes). It is recommended to cut out and burn affected shoots. Fungal diseases (downy mildew, gray rot, etc.) appear as spots on the leaves, generally reducing the protective powers of garden hydrangea. Control measures include removing dried bushes along with the roots, removing affected areas of shoots, spraying and watering with special solutions (for example, Fundazol, Pierazin, etc.). Weevils, aphids, spider mites and weevils feed on the sap of the tissues of mainly young leaves, which leads to a loss of decorativeness of plants and a decrease in its protective functions. Preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture reduces the likelihood of their occurrence. If the pest has already settled on the foliage, then spray chemicals according to instructions. The most commonly used are Aktara, Aktellik, Karbofos, Fi-toverm, Fufa-non. Recommendation from experienced gardeners. To start getting acquainted with hydrangea, you should choose unpretentious varieties designed for the climate in a certain region. After training on simple shrubs, you can gradually move on to more capricious and rare species.

- a beautiful, but capricious flower that does not always live up to the expectations of gardeners, and does not always bloom in response to careful care. What is the reason for this phenomenon, why indoor or garden hydrangea refuses to bloom, and what to do to correct the situation? There are many answers to these questions, let's look at them together.

The right choice when purchasing

When purchasing indoor or garden hydrangeas, you should pay attention to whether there are buds on the stems. If the answer is yes, then the sellers watered the hydrangea with flowering stimulants, forcing it to bloom to give it a “marketable appearance.” The young plant has already spent a lot of effort on forming buds, and after transplantation it may not bloom for two years, or may not take root in the new place at all. What to do in this case? Transplant the bush into another pot or into open ground along with a lump of earth so that it can better adapt to its new location. And after the adaptation period, start feeding it with mineral fertilizers.

To answer the question: why doesn’t hydrangea bloom, you need to know what type of plant you are buying. Some types of hydrangea at a young age cannot bloom, or bloom poorly, because they have not yet accumulated enough useful substances for beautiful and lush flowering. After all, the inflorescences of most hydrangeas are large, and the bush spends a lot of effort on them.

Types of hydrangeas such as garden large-leaved, tree-like and paniculate hydrangeas do not bloom immediately. The first 1-2 years after planting are spent developing the root system, then the above-ground part is strengthened; if both stages are successful, the plant will begin to bloom only in the third year.

And one more thing - for planting in open ground, choose zoned varieties of hydrangea. If the summer in your area is too short, the flower buds will not have time to form and there will be no flowering.

Effect of pruning on flowering

Improper pruning is another factor that has a significant impact on the flowering of garden or indoor hydrangea. In order not to wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom, it is necessary to prune it correctly. Moreover, the concept of “correct” is individual for each type of hydrangea.

So, in spring and autumn, only faded inflorescences are cut off so that they do not break under the weight of snow. If the hydrangea did not bloom in the summer, then there is no need to prune it at all.

In the spring, paniculate hydrangea is pruned before the buds open; if you miss the time of pruning, the development of the plant will be so arrested that it will not bloom this season. When pruning, weak and small shoots are removed, as well as shoots that froze in severe frosts. Annual shoots are pruned so that 3-4 pairs of buds remain.

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms only on last year’s shoots, or more precisely, on young branches that grew on last year’s shoots. And if you remove last year’s shoots when pruning, there will be no flowering. Pruning of large-leaved hydrangea is carried out only to remove damaged stems and last year's inflorescences.

Ground cover hydrangea blooms on young shoots this year. Its pruning consists of shortening too long young branches, due to which the bush becomes more branched and blooms more abundantly.

From this we can conclude: in order for the hydrangea to bloom, its pruning is carried out taking into account its species features, otherwise you may never see it bloom at all. We must not forget that hydrangea, which grows in wildlife, blooms without any pruning, so at home you shouldn’t get too carried away with this operation.

Proper wintering

To protect hydrangea from severe frosts, they begin to prepare it for winter in the fall. In areas with a warm climate, it will be enough to cut off the inflorescences and wrap the bush with agrofibre, but where the winter temperature drops below 25 degrees, it is necessary to make a more reliable shelter.

Old inflorescences are cut off, the branches are bent to the ground and covered with peat, earth or sawdust. To do this, the bush is fenced with boards to create a box - the branches are placed in it. To avoid bending them too much, dry grass or leaves are first placed on the ground and branches are placed on this cushion. The box is also boarded up on top, and after heavy snowfall it is additionally insulated with snow.

In the spring, with the onset of warmth, the entire structure is removed, and the plant is rejuvenated by pruning. In the event of spring frosts, which are so frequent in Russia, the bush must be covered with agrofibre - if the flower buds that have just begun to develop freeze, the plant will not bloom this year.

The whims of a home flower

Sometimes indoor hydrangea does not bloom, growing in favorable conditions. What is the reason, and what to do in this case? Let's start from afar - in the fall, indoor hydrangea can completely shed its leaves and retire. At this time, it is taken out into a dark, cool room, watering is reduced, carried out only so that the roots do not dry out and with the beginning of spring the plant begins to grow and bloom again.

At the end of winter indoor hydrangea taken out into the light and warm room, begin to water and feed well. At the same time, you should not place the flower pot in direct sunlight - hydrangea prefers coolness and diffused light. If the room temperature is too high, they try to create special conditions– remove it away from windows and heating devices, often ventilate the room without exposing the flower to drafts. Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature; this feature also needs to be taken into account.

Soon new shoots will begin to grow from the roots, on which inflorescences will form. If there are too many shoots, some of them are removed, leaving 3-4 of the strongest and largest ones. The remaining stems are fed with mineral fertilizers. Good fertilizer for hydrangea is coffee, which is scattered over the surface of the soil in a pot.

Every 3-4 years, the hydrangea is transplanted to a new place; for this, a soil mixture with an acidic reaction is made from peat, pine needles, leaf and turf soil. You can use ready-made soil for azaleas by adding some pine needles to it.

Very beautiful lush inflorescences Hydrangeas can be seen on summer cottages and in city parks.

But there are also amateurs who grow this plant at home.

And this individual differs from a large garden bush in its dwarf growth, when only a flower cap of a brightly saturated or pale color peeks out from the pot.

It is for the sake of this charm that this culture is planted on windowsills. But it happens that a plant refuses to please others with its inflorescences. What is the reason why Hydrangea does not bloom?

Did you plant the flower correctly?

You brought home a little miracle and are waiting with lust for it to bloom. But for some reason Hortense is in no hurry to do this. First of all, pay attention to the flower pot in which the plant is located.

• If this is a temporary shelter in which they seat flower seedlings in the store, then the Hydrangea should be transplanted into a more suitable container. The pot should be wider than the one in which the flower is currently located. However, you should not choose a deep vessel, because... The roots of culture grow wider, not deeper.

• If Hydrangea has been in the same place for more than 2 years flower pot, then God himself ordered a transplant. It is the annual change of pots that stimulates the plant to flower.

Transplants should be carried out in the fall, using turf and leaf soil, peat and sand.

Soil acidification

Experienced flower growers know that Hydrangea loves to accumulate aluminum salts. The color of the inflorescences depends on the saturation of this element. The more acidified the soil, the bluer the flowers turn out.

An alkaline environment gives a pink tint, and a neutral one gives a white tint. When it comes to acidification, soil additives in the form of sawdust, peat or pine needles are usually used.

For the same purpose, the plant is sprayed with acidified water. lemon juice or watered with alum.

And only an inexperienced gardener introduces nitrogen-containing fertilizers as a nutrient element. Naturally, they stimulate the growth of plants well, but at the same time suppress their ability to bloom - all the energy is spent on forcing.

Temperature and lighting

Despite the fact that Hydrangea is a plant of the southern type, it should not be “bathed” in ultraviolet rays all year round. Let the flower stand on a well-lit windowsill, where only diffused light from the street enters.

In the absence of such conditions, you should not move Hydrangea deeper into the room - such darkening will weaken the plant and cause it to refuse to bloom.

The temperature for budding plays an important role - room temperature is considered optimal (18-22°C). But this is only during a period of active growth.

When the time for seasonal dormancy has come (from late autumn to February), during this time Hydrangea needs to create a cool environment (about 7-10°) somewhere in the basement.

If the plant is left to winter on the windowsill in a warm place, then you should not ask the question “why doesn’t Hydrangea bloom on time?”

Finally

Flowers should be treated like women, giving them affection and attention. Don't ignore their whims; create the most optimal conditions for development.

And then Hydrangea will certainly reciprocate, giving her ruler a lush ball of inflorescences. And what color you prefer is up to you.

Many beginners in the field of floriculture often make simple mistakes when growing hydrangeas. Because of this, plants may stop flowering, and all useful material let the foliage develop.

Hydrangea is perennial shrub, which produces flowers of amazing beauty. But you can’t always see these flowers on your plant. When growing these plants, you should know why hydrangea does not bloom, but only produces foliage. This will help gardeners observe the flowering of their plants every year.

White flowers

Hydrangea has more than 80 varieties, and they can differ in a large number characteristics. The main part of the varieties are small shrubs, 1-2 meters high, and the vines can climb to a height of more than 30 meters.

Hydrangea

Flowering plants begin late spring and lasts until late autumn. The main part of the flowers is white, but the flowers of certain varieties of hydrangea can be colored pink, red, blue and lilac colors. Typically, color depends on the acidity level of the soil.

Reasons for not flowering

Many gardeners, having decided to grow hydrangea in their garden plot, cannot achieve flowering. There may be several reasons, and you should know the main ones in order to avoid mistakes when growing plants.

• Improper pruning of bushes.
• Lack of moisture.
• Underdevelopment of the root system.
• Scam when purchasing.
• Incorrect transplant.
• Insufficient lighting.
• Frosting of kidneys in winter.
• Poor nutrition.
• No choice suitable variety.
• Diseases and pests.

Bush pruning

Hydrangeas, like other shrub plants, require timely and proper pruning. It greatly influences the amount of foliage and the abundance of flowering. Improper pruning is often the reason why hydrangeas do not bloom and produce only foliage. This phenomenon is very common in large-leaved hydrangea varieties.

As a rule, most of the pruning is done in the spring after the snow has melted. Work on pruning hydrangea bushes is rarely left in the fall, only the faded parts are removed. Spring pruning is done before foliage begins to form. Pruning methods may vary for each individual hydrangea species.

Watering

Hydrangea loves moisture very much. Even its name in Latin is translated as “vessel of water.” Watering for bushes should be plentiful. In summer, up to 50 ml of water is used for each bush.

Watering is done regularly. In summer, the bushes are watered twice a week. If the weather is rainy, watering should be reduced to once. The amount of watering should be adjusted according to the current weather.

Root system

Young plants that have only recently been planted in the soil have a weak root system. They need long time to finally strengthen and start producing flowers.

Full flowering of plants begins only in the 4th year of hydrangea growth. Therefore, you should not panic if your hydrangea does not bloom immediately after planting. With proper care, you can get stunning flowers every year.

Purchase of planting material

When purchasing hydrangeas, you should not turn to little-known sellers of planting material. Often, unscrupulous sellers may use growth and flowering enhancers. When purchasing, you can observe excellent flowering, but after planting such plants in your own soil, flowering may stop.

The use of flower enhancers puts a very high stress on plants. Subsequently, such a plant will not produce flowers for a very long time. And in the worst case scenario, you may not see flowers at all.

Buy planting material only in established companies, and before purchasing, you should carefully study the reviews about it.

Transplanting bushes

Incorrect transplantation very often becomes the reason why pink hydrangea does not bloom, but only produces foliage. Beginner gardeners can easily damage the root system, disrupting the plants’ normal metabolism.

Planting flowers

Also, choosing a container that is too small or too spacious for growing indoor plants can slow down the development and, as a result, stop the flowering of hydrangea.

Choosing a suitable soil is also very important, because a sudden change in soil composition can negatively affect general condition plants.

Lighting

The cause of poor flowering or its absence may be insufficient lighting. This is often observed in places where natural sunlight is not fully available.

To solve this problem, you should establish additional lighting using other methods or transplant the plants to places where there will be plenty of sunlight.

Pink flowers

Shelter for the winter

In severe frosts, flowering buds can easily freeze. Such buds will no longer be able to produce flowers, and all that remains is to cut them off along with the damaged stems. To prevent this from happening, the plants are covered for the winter.

Shelter for the winter

• You should tie the hydrangea stems together and cover them with sawdust. After that all that remains is to sprinkle them with earth.
• If it is possible to cover the hydrangea with a non-woven covering material, then you should take advantage of this opportunity.
• Coniferous branches would be a good covering material. They will not only save the bushes from freezing, but will also increase the acidity of the soil, which hydrangea bushes love.
• Plants can be covered even if all the leaves have not yet fallen off. Neither pests nor diseases overwinter on hydrangea leaves.

Feeding

Fertilizer application

For full flowering, hydrangeas need regular but moderately dosed feeding. An excess of nitrogen fertilizers is the reason why it does not bloom. paniculata hydrangea, but only gives foliage. The flowering of the bushes stops, and the beneficial substances are used for increased foliage formation.

• In the spring, at the beginning of bush growth, you should add one square meter soil 25 gr. urea, 40 gr. superphosphate and 35 gr. potassium sulfur.
• With the onset of the budding phase, the supply of nitrogen fertilizers decreases. 80 grams are applied per square meter of soil. superphosphate and 45 g. potassium sulfur.
• The use of nitrogen fertilizers is important after flowering has ended. Under each bush, 15 kg of compost or rotted manure should be added.

There are special fertilizers for hydrangeas. They contain a set of minerals and trace elements necessary for the full development of plants. You can use them as the main feeding. Before use, you should carefully study the instructions.

Selection of varieties

Each plant requires certain growing conditions. It is not always possible to achieve them in different regions countries. Varieties initially accustomed to a large number light and warmth, will feel uncomfortable in the northern regions.

Variety selection

On the other hand, a variety intended for cultivation in northern climates is unlikely to take root in hot regions with a dry climate.

Choosing the right variety is one of many basic conditions for the full growth and flowering of hydrangea.

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests on hydrangeas are rare, but even they suffer from similar troubles. The most common problems with hydrangea are:

They do not damage flowers directly, but can interfere with plant development, delaying the onset of flowering or stopping it altogether. To combat diseases and pests should be used modern means on a biological or chemical basis, as well as traditional methods.

Knowing why hydrangea does not bloom and produces only foliage, you can easily eliminate all the reasons that interfere with the full development of the plant. By putting these tips into practice, you can enjoy the pleasant flowering of your pets every year.

Very often we have questions about why this or that plant does not meet our expectations; our task is to analyze this topic in as much detail as possible.

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom? Do flower growers know these secrets of care?

But in fact, there is not much you need to know in order for this wonderful flower to decorate your yard or garden. The only question is whether you are ready to spend a little time and effort to learn these tricks or decide to leave it to others.

First of all, you will need to decide on the variety of this wonderful flower, since much in the life of the plant depends on your climate. In addition, you need to remember that proper pruning promotes the development of the flower and vice versa. And lastly, hydrangea is a very delicate flower and often gets sick, so be prepared to strictly adhere to a number of rules. Read on for more details about all this and more.

And why doesn’t hydrangea bloom?

There can be many reasons why hydrangea does not bloom. The garden beauty is capricious. To grow this magnificent flower on your site and enjoy its flowering, you need to make some effort.

• It is necessary to study its preferences, determine the need for watering and lighting.
• In this case, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil, planting location and plant variety.
• If you carefully analyze the conditions in which hydrangea grows, you can discover the reasons for its problems and correct the mistakes made.

The main reasons for the lack of flowering and their solutions

1. Poor place to plant a seedling
2. Lack or excess moisture
3. Adaptation after disembarkation
4. Incorrectly selected fertilizers
5. Frozen buds in winter
6. Unsuccessful bush pruning
7. Diseases and pests
8. Wrong variety selected

Poor place to plant a seedling

Hydrangea feels uncomfortable in open places, being under the scorching rays of the sun all day. The tender leaves of many varieties droop lifelessly and burn in the heat.

In a sunny place, the plant will be saved by low planting. The trunk circle of the bush should be 10 cm below the ground level. It must be mulched with coarse-fiber peat or sawdust to the surface of the ground. In such conditions, the plant can develop and bloom normally.

In hot and sunny regions it is better to grow paniculata hydrangea. If moistened regularly, it will withstand direct Sun rays all daylight hours without harming flowering.

In deep shade, under the crowns of large trees, hydrangea is unlikely to delight with its lush color. The perennial does not develop well in heavy shade, regardless of which variety is planted. If flowers appear, they will be sparse and underdeveloped.

All varieties of plants prefer places where the sun's rays fall only before lunch. In such conditions, hydrangea blooms especially brightly, magnificently and for a long time.

If the place for the shrub is chosen poorly and the situation cannot be corrected in any way, you need to replant it. This should be done only as a last resort, since the plant does not tolerate transplantation well. The most suitable time for transplantation is autumn. At this time, the perennial is dormant.

• Having picked up suitable site, you need to dig a hole to a depth of 50 cm. The extracted soil is mixed with 2 buckets of humus and 80 g of mineral fertilizer is added.
• Hydrangea loves acidic soil and grows quickly in it. Therefore, the soil for it needs to be acidified with a solution of sulfuric acid (1 tsp per 10 liters of water).
• The plant must be replanted very carefully, along with a lump of earth.
• If the root system is damaged during replanting, the plant will not bloom for a long time.

Lack or excess moisture

Hygrophilia is the main feature of hydrangea. The shrub has the botanical name Hydrangea. Translated from Greek, “hydrangea” means “vessel of water.” If there is a lack of moisture, the plant stops blooming. Its roots should always be kept moist. Do not allow the earthen ball to dry out near the roots. If the weather is dry, without watering the hydrangea may die.

In cool weather, it is enough to water the flower once a week. On hot and dry days, watering should be done every 3 days. The young plant also needs additional moisture until it is 1 year old.

If the soil is clayey, water less frequently. Water will stagnate in heavy soil. If there is excess moisture, hydrangea may reduce or stop flowering. An abundance of water leads to rotting of the roots and death of the plant. Oakleaf hydrangea tolerates moisture accumulation near the roots more difficult than others. It only needs well-drained soil. So that the water in clay soil does not accumulate, you need to add pine bark to it.

• For irrigation, it is better to use rain or filtered water.
• Tap water must be left to stand for 5 days before watering.
• To water a bush once, you need 1-1.5 buckets of water.
• To prevent moisture from spreading, it is worth making an earthen border at the base of the bush.

In a garden surrounded by large and powerful hydrangea trees, there will not be enough moisture. The roots of the trees will take water from the flower. Even if tree roots are removed when planting a perennial, they will grow within a year.

Adaptation after disembarkation

Very often after disembarking a healthy flowering plant in open ground, it loses its decorative qualities and stops flowering. A sharp deterioration in the condition of the flower is due to the lack of usual feedings.

Hydrangea sellers often abuse fertilizers and overfeed the plants, achieving lush flowering and rapid growth. Finding yourself in natural conditions, flowering bush starts to hurt.

It is not able to independently absorb the necessary substances from the soil. Such a plant may die if emergency measures are not taken.

• When transplanting hydrangea from a container into the soil, you do not need to trim the roots and shake off the substrate.
• It will be very difficult for a weakened plant to restore its root system.
• The remaining soil in the container must be mixed with garden soil and poured into the root zone.

In the first year, you need to regularly fertilize hydrangeas, gradually reducing the dosage. It is important to create a plant ideal conditions in the first months after transplantation, avoiding drying out and stagnation of water in the root zone. When the hydrangea gets stronger, it will begin to develop and bloom.

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Incorrectly selected fertilizers.

Hydrangea does not respond well to excess fertilizer in the soil. It is especially harmful to apply nitrogen fertilizers to the soil in summer and early autumn.

They are used to enhance the growth of green mass and do not promote flowering in any way. And the rapid growth of shoots in the fall means that they do not have time to ripen before the cold weather and freeze.

Proper feeding of the plant is carried out several times a season.

• At the end of spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to enhance the growing season.
• In summer, fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is used to stimulate and maintain flowering.
• At the beginning of September, potassium-phosphorus preparations are introduced to strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter.

• • in early spring– from the moment the sap flow begins for the development and growth of new strong shoots. You can prepare the mixture for the first feeding yourself by mixing potassium, urea and superphosphate in equal proportions. The optimal application dose is 60 g per bush. You can also dilute another solution - one tablespoon of sodium sulfate and urea per bucket of water, the consumption will be 5-6 liters per plant;

• • early summer (June)- at the stage of ovary formation to increase the number of buds. Before flowering experienced flower growers It is advised to feed the hydrangea with a mixture of Agricola and nitrophoska, 1 tbsp each. for 10 liters of liquid. It would not be amiss to apply green fertilizer - one bucket of diluted nettle infusion per adult bush with further watering;
  • in the middle of the summer season– during the period of active blooming of inflorescences for long-term flowering. In the active flowering phase, special complex mineral fertilizers are used, but in smaller quantities and concentrations. From the end of July, nitrogen should be excluded from the composition of nutritional supplements in order to prevent unfavorable overwintering of shrubs; It is important to know: fertilizing should be applied every two weeks, otherwise the flowering will be frail and sparse. Along with mineral fertilizers, hydrangea also responds well during this period to the addition of organic matter - chicken droppings or manure slurry;

• autumn (October)- to prepare the plant for wintering and laying young shoots and flower stalks. At the end of flowering, it is more useful to fertilize hydrangea with humus or peat - add substrates 10-15 cm high to the tree trunk area of ​​each plant. Fertilizing in winter will have a beneficial effect on a plant dormant in winter. autumn period phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

With the help of fertilizers you can change the color of the spherical flowers of the bush. A solution of water and alum (ammonia or potassium) will give blue shades, and lime will increase the pink tones.

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Frozen buds in winter

To protect hydrangea from severe frosts, they begin to prepare it for winter in the fall. In areas with a warm climate, it will be enough to cut off the inflorescences and wrap the bush with agrofibre, but where the winter temperature drops below 25 degrees, it is necessary to make a more reliable shelter.

Sheltering hydrangeas for the winter.

Old inflorescences are cut off, the branches are bent to the ground and covered with peat, earth or sawdust. To do this, the bush is fenced with boards to create a box - the branches are placed in it. To avoid bending them too much, dry grass or leaves are first placed on the ground and branches are placed on this cushion. The box is also boarded up on top, and after heavy snowfall it is additionally insulated with snow.

In the spring, with the onset of warmth, the entire structure is removed, and the plant is rejuvenated by pruning. In the event of spring frosts, which are so frequent in Russia, the bush must be covered with agrofibre - if the flower buds that have just begun to develop freeze, the plant will not bloom this year.

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Unsuccessful bush pruning

If the buds of future flowers are removed during autumn pruning, the plant will not bloom in due time.

Hydrangeas should be pruned only when necessary. Young plants should not be touched until they begin to bloom. The first flowers appear on the perennial after 2-3 years. Paniculate hydrangeas can bloom only in the 6th year.

In the fall, most varieties of hydrangeas do not need to be pruned. It is better to carry out spring pruning in more late dates when damage caused to the bush by frost is visible. Remove frozen buds, shoots and broken branches.

• The decorative appearance of the shrub depends on proper pruning.
• Some types of hydrangea have a very developed shoot-forming ability.
• If you do not thin out the bush, it will quickly thicken and bloom less abundantly with small inflorescences.
• On a severely neglected perennial, flowers may not form.
• It is necessary to cut out small branches inside the bush that do not produce full-fledged inflorescences.

To enhance flowering, last year's shoots must be shortened, leaving 1-3 strong pairs of buds. One pair is left on a thin shoot, and several inflorescences will fully develop on a thick one.

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms from the upper buds of last year's shoots. Therefore, it is important to preserve the tops of young shoots that did not bloom last year. The lower buds on the shoots rarely bloom. Old shoots that are more than 4-6 years old do not produce flowers, so they need to be removed.

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Diseases and pests

It’s worth saying right away that lion's share Hydrangea diseases are transmitted through seedlings. Therefore, you should buy hydrangea seedlings only from reliable nurseries, and when propagating hydrangeas from cuttings, be sure that the parent plant is healthy. Most often, hydrangea diseases occur when high humidity air, especially with very dense plantings.

Another group of hydrangea diseases occurs due to a lack of certain substances, primarily chlorosis, which manifests itself as yellowing of hydrangea leaves. This is where we begin our review.

Hydrangea chlorosis

Hydrangea chlorosis occurs due to metabolic disorders in the plant. It experiences iron deficiency, as a result of which the hydrangea leaves turn yellow, lighten, and the veins on the leaves remain dark in color. If you try to ignore this hydrangea disease, over time the plant will weaken and lose its beauty.

• To prevent chlorosis of hydrangeas, they are fertilized with iron-containing preparations according to the instructions.
• You should also avoid watering hydrangeas with tap water; for these purposes it is better to take softer, rainwater.

Most often, the leaves of hydrangeas growing on soils rich in lime and overfed with humus turn yellow. But what to do if the hydrangea leaves have already turned yellow?

For more quick recovery bush is recommended spraying hydrangeas preparations Agricol, Iron Chelate, antichlorosis, ferovit, ferrylene, micro Fe, Brexil. In particular advanced cases For hydrangea chlorosis, these drugs should also be applied at the root.

Another option - treatment of hydrangea for chlorosis with potassium nitrate solution(40 grams of potassium nitrate per bucket of water) and iron sulfate(iron sulfate) in the same concentration. After 2-3 waterings with saltpeter, wait three days and water with a solution of ferrous sulfate.

Fungal diseases of hydrangeas

Don't be alarmed - in fact, hydrangeas are quite rarely affected by fungal diseases. But it is better to prepare for unpleasant surprises. A universal remedy for fungal diseases of hydrangeas, treatment with copper oxychloride (CHOM) is the most suitable fungicide for hydrangeas.

White rot of hydrangeas

White rot Hydrangea This is fungal disease hydrangeas begin with rotting roots. As a result, the plant does not receive nutrients, it turns brown and dies. If the disease affects young hydrangeas, the growing shoots and leaves darken, begin to rot and become covered with “cotton wool” - a soft white coating. Over time, black inclusions appear in the “cotton wool” - sclerotia. The causative agent of the disease persists in the soil, getting there with plant debris.

Treatment of white rot of hydrangeas: Phytosporin has shown high effectiveness for fungal diseases of hydrangeas. Other fungicides can also be used.

Gray rot of hydrangeas

Gray rot

Another dangerous disease of hydrangeas, in which the plant tissues become watery and soft. In dry weather, dead tissue dries out and falls out, leaving holes in the leaves and stems. In humid weather, the fungus spreads very quickly, all infected areas become covered with “grey wool”. Gray rot is difficult to eradicate, since this disease is characteristic of almost everyone garden plants.

Treatment of gray rot of hydrangeas: Dead parts of hydrangeas must be removed. The results are obtained by treating hydrangeas with Pure Flower, Skor, Fundazol.

Hydrangea downy mildew (downy mildew)

This hydrangea disease manifests itself in the form of oily spots that darken over time on the stems and leaves. Fungal disease actively develops at high humidity and temperatures of 18-20 degrees.

Treatment of downy mildew of plants: the plant is treated with a solution of soapy water and copper sulfate (15 grams of sulfate and 150 grams of soap per bucket of water). This hydrangea treatment will help on early stages diseases. You can treat hydrangea with fungicides.

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas This fungal disease of hydrangeas is characterized by the presence of yellow-green spots on the leaves, which over time turn brown and take on distinct shapes. In this case, a purple or grayish coating is visible on the bottom of the leaf. Over time, the affected leaves fall off. This fungus especially affects young shoots; they become deformed and, as a rule, do not survive the winter.

Treatment of powdery mildew: hydrangea is sprayed with fungicides - Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M. If the hydrangea disease has severely affected the plant, you can use Pure Flower, Thiovit Jet, Topaz, Skor, Strobi, Cumulus.

Septoria hydrangea blight (septoria blotch of hydrangeas)

Septoria hydrangea This disease of hydrangeas, like septoria, manifests itself in the form of brown spots of rounded irregular shape, with a light center and a dark rim. Septoria hydrangea affects the leaves, but in neglected plants it spreads to young stems and petioles. Over time, the spots merge and the leaves die. The hydrangea disease Septoria reduces the ability of hydrangeas to overwinter.

Treatment of hydrangea septoria: treatment with copper-containing preparations – copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, etc.

Other common fungal diseases of hydrangeas include: common cancer, tracheomycosis wilt, bark necrosis, phyllostictosis and ascochyta spotting. In general, the treatment of hydrangeas for fungal diseases is carried out with fungicides. But fungal diseases are not the worst thing that can happen to hydrangea.

Viral diseases of hydrangeas

Hydrangea ringspot The most common A viral disease of hydrangeas is hydrangea ring spot. Initially, blurry spots of necrosis in the shape of rings appear on the leaves of hydrangeas, the leaves begin to wrinkle and become asymmetrical. If the plant is severely affected by ring spot, it cannot produce buds, or the flowers turn out small and weak.

Treatment of ring spot in hydrangeas. Unfortunately, this viral disease of hydrangeas cannot be treated. It is necessary to carefully monitor the quality of seedlings.

Pests of hydrangeas

Snails on hydrangea

Snails love hydrangeas. Most often this is the common amber snail or the grape snail. They especially like moist, shady, thickened plantings. Snails on hydrangeas eat buds, young shoots and leaves.

Snails pose a great danger to hydrangeas overwintering under cover: the mollusks burrow into the soil around the bush, and as soon as the temperature rises in the spring, they emerge from the ground and feed on the first buds and leaves. Near the hydrangea bush you can see clutches of snails.

How to get rid of snails on hydrangeas: In addition to the mechanical destruction of these mollusks and their clutches in the spring and summer, you can use metaldehyde or “Thunderstorm”.

These toxic drugs should not be placed directly on the ground - they clog the soil and stop working when mixed with the soil. The chemicals are poured into cups and placed horizontally around the bush.

Spider mite on hydrangea

If you notice that with back side small yellow spots appeared on the hydrangea leaf, which over time merged into a marble pattern - this is the spider mite on the hydrangea. Over time, the affected leaf dries out and falls off. If these hydrangea pests have thoroughly colonized the bush, you can see spider webs with mites (with a small infestation, the spider mite is not noticeable to the naked eye), and necrosis appears.

Treatment of hydrangea against poutine mite: insectoacaracids and acaracids are used - thiophos, preparations Molniya, Akarin, Fitoverm, Vermitek. For mild spider mite infestation of hydrangea, treatment with mineral oil or soap can help.

Aphids on hydrangea

When settling on hydrangeas, aphids suck the juice from the plant, simultaneously contaminating it with sugary secretions. They, in turn, serve as food for sooty fungi. Aphids on hydrangeas are also dangerous because they can carry viruses. Aphids settle on the lower part of the leaf; if the hydrangea is severely infested, it may turn yellow and the leaves may fall off.

Treatment of hydrangeas from aphids: if the damage is mild, you can simply try to wash off the hydrangea pests with soap and water. Insecticides - Tobacco dust, Iskra, Zubr, Antilin, Fitoverm, Aktara, Akarin, Tanrek, Komandor and other means - are used for large-scale aphids.

Root-knot nematode on hydrangea

This pest lives on the roots of hydrangeas. Microscopic worms - root-knot nematodes - form brown, round swellings on the root, called galls. The galls rot, the roots die, and the hydrangea does not receive nutrients. Most often, this pest of hydrangeas affects young bushes.

There are a lot of insects that can harm hydrangeas: bugs, pennies, leaf-eating pests (weevils, leaf beetles, caterpillars, cutworms, fawns, bronze beetles, earwigs). However, for a healthy, strong plant and a caring owner, these pests are not particularly dangerous.

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Wrong variety selected

Hydrangea may not bloom due to the whimsical nature of the variety. Not all types of flower shrubs even with compassionate care quickly adapt to the new climate. Sometimes from planting a seedling to the moment of flowering, it takes from five to seven years.

• When choosing a hydrangea variety, you should study its care requirements.
• For example, paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata, Unique, Kyushu, Grandiflora, Brussels Lace, Limelight) and tree hydrangea (Annabelle, Hydrangea arborescens) take root in cool regions.
• while bigleaf (Hydrangea acrophyla, Blauer Zwerg, Gerda Steiniger, Ever Peppermint, Endless Summer) and oakleaf (Hayes Starburst, Incrediball, White Dome) are more suitable for temperate climates.

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Types and varieties of hydrangea for Russian gardens.

Hydrangea- a separate genus of flowering plants belonging to the Hydrangeaceae family. The family is represented by small trees and shrubs. The genus includes up to 80 plant species and is widely popular in Asia, Europe and America. Selected species, more adapted to the conditions of detention, are often found in China and Japan. Many varieties have gained popularity among domestic gardeners due to their unsurpassed appearance, durability and unpretentiousness.

• Hydrangea largeleaf
• Hydrangea
• Hydrangea paniculata
• Hydrangea oakleaf
• Hydrangea petiolate
• Hydrangea serrata
• Hydrangea radiata
• Ash hydrangea

Did you know? The plant was named after the beautiful princess Hortense, who was the sister of the prince of the Roman Empire.

Hydrangea largeleaf

Hydrangea largeleaf– tall ornamental shrub, distinctive feature which are uncharacteristically large leaves. In favorable growing conditions and with proper care, it can reach 2.5-3 meters in height. The inflorescences are round in shape and, depending on the species, can have different colors, ranging from soft blue to pink.

In general, caring for this type of flower comes down to caring for the soil, regular watering and periodic fertilization, but creating conditions for the quality of the soil and the amount of sunlight is slightly difficult.

In view of this, there was no need to talk about planting large-leaved plants in our country before. Fortunately, new, more adapted varieties of this ornamental species appear regularly.

Yes, hydrangea garden variety Blaumeis is a modern breakthrough in domestic gardening, because due to the growth characteristics of the shrub, previously only gardeners with extensive experience could grow it correctly. With the development of such varieties, planting has become significantly easier, and the plant’s requirements for care have decreased.

Hydrangea largeleaf, winter-hardy varieties which dominates the domestic market of ornamental plants, easily tolerates difficult climatic conditions and changeable weather. Best suited for planting in the middle zone of our country.

Important! Despite the relative winter hardiness of this species, immature and/or young shrubs do not tolerate severe frosts well, so it is strongly recommended to cover the plant for the winter.

Hydrangea

Tree hydrangea– one of the most popular types of tall ornamental shrubs. The homeland of this species is North America, where the shrub often grows over 4-5 meters (in Russian gardens it rarely exceeds 2-3 meters). The leaves of the species are large, opposite, and rich green in color. Inflorescences of spherical shape, reaching 20 cm in diameter, are formed at the top of annual shoots. The original greenish color of the flowers turns into a soft cream color over time.

Selected varieties have a significant number of fruiting inflorescences, but at the same time in Russian gardens you can often find shrubs with absolutely sterile inflorescences. Thus, the variety of adapted varieties of this species makes it possible to make a choice in favor of the shrub that will fit most harmoniously into the garden.

• This species is extremely unpretentious and for the most part includes adapted and winter-hardy varieties of hydrangea.
• The plant easily tolerates slight darkening, heavy soil and any neighborhood.

It is noteworthy that annual flower shoots, as a rule, do not have time to fully ripen until autumn, so in winter period frosted over.

However, to restore the bush, a little spring pruning and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is sufficient. At the same time, annual flowering is guaranteed.

Thanks to the climatic conditions of our region, in Russian gardens it is one of the first to bloom (at the end of June) and continues to bloom until late autumn.

Due to their durability, unpretentiousness and adaptability, tree hydrangea varieties are best suited for the Moscow region. The most common variety within our state is Sterilis, which is characterized by large spherical inflorescences consisting of frequent small flowers reaching 1 cm in diameter.

Tree hydrangea, as a rule, has sterile flowers that provide abundant decorative flowering.

Hydrangea paniculata

Paniculata hydrangea- a type of ornamental shrub or tree reaching up to 5 meters in height. It got its name due to the special shape of the crown, leaf blade and inflorescences. In the wild, this plant is found in China, Japan, Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Moreover, in their natural habitat, trees and bushes of the species often exceed 5-7 meters in height while maintaining proportions to the diameter of the crown.

In Russian gardens, this plant is rightfully one of the most ornamental plants, which, at your own discretion, can be grown in one form or another (bush, single-trunked or multi-trunked tree).

The shoots are brown in color and quickly become woody, which determines their resistance to difficult climatic conditions. Its leaves are oblong and arranged oppositely. Inflorescences are located on most young shoots, which guarantees abundant annual flowering.

The appearance of buds occurs at the end of June - beginning of July, but their blooming is slow, which is why it blooms in full force only in August - September.

The inflorescences of this type of ornamental shrub are pyramidal in shape and consist of a mixture of frequent sterile and fertile greenish flowers, which over time acquire a delicate cream color.

Autumn period

In autumn, with sufficient sunlight, the inflorescences change color to pink, brick or pale purple.

This type of ornamental plant is very unpretentious and resistant even to the conditions of the north-west of our country.

Until recently, only a few were grown in Russian gardens. garden forms and varieties of paniculate hydrangea, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, tree and paniculate hydrangeas regularly receive new varieties. Fortunately, almost every new representative of the species, even regardless of climatic conditions, is to one degree or another prepared for cultivation in the gardens of our country.

By now, the most common variety of this plant is Grandiflora, which is characterized by large dense inflorescences (the length of which, as a rule, reaches 30-35 cm), mainly consisting of sterile flowers.

• Fruiting flowers are present only at the top of the racemes.
• The variety has gained popularity due to its large size, attractive appearance and, above all, sweet honey aroma.
• Hydrangea paniculata varieties are winter-hardy, but do not forget that young shrubs always need reliable protection for the wintering period.
• To do this, you should additionally dig in the root system and cover it with leaves, and tie up the shoots.

Did you know? Hydrangea paniculata differs from others in its unusually long lifespan and long-lasting preservation of its decorative appearance. A shrub can grow in one place for more than 40 years.

Hydrangea oakleaf

Hydrangea oakleaf– deciduous ornamental flowering shrub, reaching a height of up to one meter.

This species is distinguished by unusually large (up to 20 cm in length) 5-7-lobed leaf blades. Depending on the season, their color changes from dark green in summer to purple in autumn. The underside of the sheet is white felt. Outwardly, they are similar to an oak leaf.

• The inflorescences are conical panicles 20 cm long.
• Large snow-white flowers are densely located over the entire surface of the brush, the diameter of which is usually 3-4 cm.
• During the flowering process, the inflorescences turn pink, and then completely acquire a crimson color.

Hydrangea oakleaf, whose winter hardiness is one of its advantages, sometimes needs seasonal shelter. As a rule, this applies to young or diseased bushes. Moreover, before wintering, it is best to loosen the soil around it by 15-20 cm. In this way, you can effectively protect the plant’s root system from freezing.

Important! Oakleaf hydrangea is extremely moisture-loving, so it is necessary to provide regular watering in sufficient quantities (based on the size of the plant). Moreover, you should carefully care for the soil, loosening it and promptly clearing it of weeds.

Oakleaf hydrangeas, the varieties of which are optimally suited for growing in Russian gardens, are not very popular, but they fully deserve it thanks to the leaves that are completely unique to this shrub.

Hydrangea petiolate

Hydrangea petiolate- a perennial ornamental plant that is blooming liana. It is due to this appearance that this species is also called curly.

In the wild, it is most often found in the vast expanses of the Kuril Islands, Sakhalin, China and Japan, where it often reaches 20-25 meters in length.

Under growing conditions in Russian gardens, its size is significantly smaller. The flower is not only simply attached to a support with the help of its aerial roots, but can also spread along the ground, but in this case the plant will not bloom.

Inflorescences

The leaf blade of this species is wide, with a characteristic heart-shaped base. The inflorescences are loose umbrellas, reaching 20-25 cm in diameter. Their color (white-green, lilac, pink and others) depends on the variety.

Petiole view It is highly frost-resistant, but in some cases (in particularly severe frosts) it may freeze slightly. In view of this, in the first frosts it is better to remove young shoots from their support and cover them for wintering under the snow.

We can safely say that this is the species that belongs to the best varieties hydrangeas for creating a hedge. But at the same time, it makes special demands on the conditions of detention, so the species is rare in the vast expanses of our state, but deserves attention.

Important!Petiole hydrangea is extremely picky about the quality and composition of the soil. Thus, any minor deviation from the required maintenance conditions can cause plant disease or even its death.

Hydrangea serrata

Hydrangea serrata- a tree-like ornamental shrub reaching a height of up to 1.5 meters. Is different lush crown large diameter and bright green oval-shaped leaves, pointed at the apex. The serrated hydrangea shrub is classified as an annual.

• The inflorescences of the plant have the shape of a ball, while inside it the blue color is more saturated than on the edge.
• At the end of flowering, the inflorescences acquire a soft pink color.
• It is noteworthy that in some cases the color of the flowers may be different, since for this species it directly depends on the acidity of the soil in the area.

This shrub blooms from late June to September, often surpassing other varieties of hydrangea in beauty. It easily tolerates possible transplants, even regardless of the quality of the planting soil, but throughout the entire period of growth and flowering it prefers moderate watering.

For proper and safe wintering of the shrub, it is necessary to trim off the wilted inflorescences and cover them with a thick film. In general, the plant is extremely unpretentious.

It is perfect for planting in garden plots in the middle zone of our state.

Did you know? Serrata hydrangea is fully adapted to the climatic conditions of our region, therefore it is almost never attacked by garden pests and diseases.

Hydrangea radiata

Hydrangea, whose species and varieties are replete with variety for Russian gardens, invariably attracts domestic gardeners with its amazing beauty and unpretentiousness. This can easily be considered one of the most popular types.

This type of shrub can reach up to 3 meters in height and has an oval-lanceolate shape. sheet plates, pointed at the top. External decorative look The plant is provided with many sterile snow-white flowers, united in massive corymbs.

The flowering period occurs in mid-summer and usually lasts about a month. Ripening itself occurs at the beginning of autumn (September).

Hydrangea radiata does not apply to winter-hardy species, and in winter its root system should be carefully protected with dry foliage or mound.

The growth rate of such a plant is surprisingly high, and propagation by cuttings is simple and effective. It is because of this that the plant is very often found in landscape design in the southern regions of the country.

Ash hydrangea

Ash hydrangea– an ornamental shrub (deciduous), capable of reaching up to 2 meters in height. It is distinguished by a large diameter crown, represented by leaves and young shoots drooping from below. The leaves of the plant have a wide elliptical shape and can reach sizes of up to 15 centimeters. Small teeth are evenly spaced along the edges of the leaf plates.

Corymbose inflorescences, as a rule, reach 15-20 centimeters in diameter and bloom in mid-summer (late June - early July).

She without much difficulty tolerates the winter climate of our region, however, young garden hydrangea varieties have reduced winter hardiness, so they may freeze slightly.

Requirements for soil composition

A shrub of this species, similar to a tree-like one, does not present special requirements to the composition of the soil, its moisture and fertility, which is why ash hydrangea can rightfully be considered indispensable for planting as a decorative hedge.

You can plant the following shrubs in your garden: juniper, rose hips, felt cherry, heather, snowberry.

For this type For a flower, you can choose absolutely any place on the site, regardless of the constancy of natural light, watering and soil acidity. At the same time, she retains her decorative properties throughout the growing season.

Based on all of the above, we can conclude that at present numerous types of garden hydrangea have been bred that can easily tolerate the climatic conditions of our region.

At the same time, their unsurpassed appearance tirelessly pleases the eye and creates amazing beauty in the garden plot, and winter-hardy varieties, which, by the way, are most often found in our region, guarantee the durability and vitality of the plant practically under any conditions of detention.

These plants, combining the beauty of flowering and ease of care, can rightfully be considered the most correct choice for planting in your own personal plot.

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History of hydrangea

Botanical name hydrangeas – hydrangea– comes from two Greek words: hydor (which means “water”) and angos (which translates as “vessel”). Thus, flowers are vessels with water.

If you look closely, the seed pods of the flower really resemble a jug or flask in shape. And the flower received the poetic name “hydrangea” in honor of Princess Hortense, sister of the prince of the Holy Roman Empire.

This flower belongs to the hydrangea family, which has more than a hundred species. The plant loves moist soil and a cool, but not frosty climate.

Hydrangeas look especially impressive in the autumn, when young buds, flowering seed heads and colorful leaves are adjacent to one bush.

• Indigenous people of Northern and South America Even before the arrival of Columbus, they believed that hydrangea was a miraculous plant that helped heal illnesses and ward off troubles.
• This flower appeared in Europe only in the 18th century, and it was brought from Japan.
• The unusual plant became a real sensation.
• In Germany, England and France, hydrangea began to be grown in the gardens of wealthy nobles.
• It was necessary to master selection so that delicate flowers would become more resistant to cold weather.

Aujisai – sacred flower

One of the most beautiful legends dedicated to a flower comes from Japan. It says that hydrangea flowers appeared on the birthday of Buddha. According to some sources, this happened in 473 BC. The moment the baby was born, magnificent flowers suddenly rained down from the sky, and with them came the nectar of “amacha.”

The Japanese gave the flowers the name "aujisai". Even today, for Japanese Buddhists, aujisai is a sacred flower that is grown in temples.

A traditional tea called “amacha” is prepared from hydrangea leaves. It symbolizes divine nectar.

Hydrangea in the language of flowers

• The most common meaning of this flower is modesty, truthfulness, faith and hope.
• In some cases, hydrangea symbolizes unrequited love.
• Hydrangea is considered the patron flower for those born between April 11 and April 20.

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