Calculation of materials for a timber house. Calculation of lumber volume

A log house is relevant, but not always convenient, since the walls need to be leveled with cladding; a wooden profile is much more practical, so sometimes it’s better calculate the amount of timber per house.

What do you need to know to calculate the amount of timber for a house?

– is this a little or a lot, and how many crowns of the house will this amount of timber be enough for? In fact, this is not such a large number of woodworking industry products. In particular, six-meter beams with a width and height of sides of 200 millimeters each will amount to only 4.17 pieces, or, since sellers like to round down, only 4 units. True, if you need more than 10 cubic meters, such rounding can play a cruel joke, and you will be missing one or even two lumber that you need so much. Therefore, you need to calculate the amount of timber per house as accurately as possible.

To begin with, determine the dimensions of the future building, that is, the length and height of the walls, the area of windows and doorways, crossbar pitch frequency (hardly in wooden house you will be pouring a monolithic concrete slab). You will also need to take into account the height rafter legs, and if the pediments are made in the same style as the building, then their geometry. In other words, immediately figure out where you will use the timber and include all the nuances in the calculations. Also immediately consider the options of using profiled, glued or unplaned beams; the latter are cheaper, but will decrease somewhat in size after processing on site.

As for the overall dimensions, from existing options with a section of 100x100, 150x100, 120x120, 140x140, 150x150, 200x150, 180x180 and 200x200 centimeters, the golden mean is usually chosen. Dimensions 150x150 fully meet the requirements for timber, both in terms of thermal conductivity and ease of assembly. Reducing the dimensions will lead to an increase in the amount of materials, and therefore to greater labor costs, even if the volume in cubes is the same. An increase in size will mean an increase in the cost of the timber and its weight.

Let's use the timber calculator in practice

Since rarely does anyone buy (and sell) lumber individually, when tens or hundreds of units of one type or another are required, we need to determine how many cubes of wood we need to purchase. To do this, you need to know the dimensions of the house, and since they are reflected in the plan, it is enough to include them in the timber calculator. Let's say a small country cottage is being built, 6x5 meters, with a ceiling height of 3 meters. It is best to buy an appropriate wooden profile, six meters long. Knowing the height of the wall, we divide it by the cross-sectional side of the lumber we have chosen. Since we previously settled on dimensions of 150x150 centimeters, we get 3/0.15 = 20 beams, which will make up the wall of the building.

It must be said that insulation is usually laid between the crowns, which should increase the height, but shrinkage wooden profile compensates for this error in our calculation. We add a plinth crown, which gives 21 beams, and then we calculate how many similar woodworking products will be produced in the entire building. To do this, we multiply the result we obtained earlier by 4 (by the number of walls). However, it is unlikely that there will be one room in the house, so a fifth wall immediately appears, an internal one, which can also be permanent, taking into account a minimum span of 5 meters. So, we multiply by 5. As a result, it turns out that 105 beams are needed to build a house. Too much? Let's see how you can save money.

Let us remember that the premises must have windows and doors, which mean the presence of significant openings. Let's say the entrance from the street is planned in a five-meter facade, exactly in the middle, and it will be exactly a meter wide. Since the crowns here are one meter shorter than the actual length of the beam, it turns out that we need 2-meter sections to form the doorway. Then from every two beams you will get exactly three crowns on this side. If interior door between the rooms will be on the edge, four-meter profiles will be needed there, the trimmings of which can also well be used to create an external opening. Thus, for every three crowns of this wall we save one beam until the lintel is laid over the entrance.

Sometimes the ends of the lumber used to construct the house, sawn in the form of tenons, in door and window openings abut against the groove of the riser, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the wall.

If the height of the door is 2.1 meters, we will have 14 crowns, that is, the remainder will be 4 six-meter wooden profiles. In the same way, you can save on windows by correctly arranging them in the overall layout of the premises, and then, quite possibly, you will no longer need 105, but some 98 beams. Use those that you can win for attic floor and fastening the rafters, since such material will not work as interfloor joists, you need a profile whose sides are in a ratio of 7:5, with the height being the first in proportion.

How to calculate a cube of timber for a house - the simplest method

We have already obtained the result necessary for further calculations, namely the number of wooden profiles that will be needed for construction. Now you need to determine how to calculate a cube of timber for a house, and how much lumber is needed. Knowing the dimensions of the woodworking product from which the crowns are knitted, it is not difficult to obtain its volume. In our case, this will be the formula V = h . b . l = 0.15 . 0.15 . 6 = 0.135 cubic meters, Here h– beam height, b– width, and l- length. Let's find out how many units of lumber are in 1 cube as follows: 1/0.135 = 7.41 pieces. They may not sell that much, sellers don’t like to cut six-meter beams, so they can reduce it to 7, or they will have to pay extra up to 8 beams.

But, since we need a lot of materials, and we know that the number of profiles will be integer, we calculate how many cubic meters of wooden profile will have to be transported to the site. Multiply total for the volume of one, let’s say, we managed to save money and actually got 98 bars, then we get 0.135 . 98 = 13.23 cubes. However, all these calculations can be eliminated if you use the following table.

The amount of timber in 1 cubic meter. to calculate timber for a house

[Section]x[length] of beam,	Volume 1 pc.,	The amount of timber in 1 m 3,

You can take a simpler route. To do this, we calculate the perimeter of the house, multiply it by the height of the walls and get the total area of the outer surface of the building, excluding the roof. Next, we subtract the area of window and door openings if high accuracy is needed, or leave it as is if the savings are not critical. The calculation is completed by multiplying by the thickness of the timber. In our case, the short formula will look like this: V = P. H. b = 27. 3. 0.15 = 12.15 cubic meters excluding the base crown and based on the fact that 3 walls are 5 meters each. As you can see, this calculation is less accurate, since the length of all lumber is 6 meters, and we took many of them as five meters.

If you are planning to start building housing from wood building materials on your own, you need to know how to calculate the amount of timber per house.

If as wall material for residential or country house timber is chosen, then this choice is very correct. ABOUT positive characteristics a lot of wood has already been written.

But wooden beam is even more economical material compared to rounded logs. After all, it has precise geometry - in cross-section it is a square or rectangle. The walls of a house made of this material are smooth, which increases the number usable area inside the building.

In addition, the calculation of the quantity building material It is easier to make a log house from regular or laminated veneer lumber than from rounded round logs or even brick.

How to make the most accurate material calculations?

But these are only rough estimates. It is necessary to take into account the minimum and maximum length timber purchased for construction. There are standard timber available for sale ranging from 2 to 6 meters in length. At the same time, you can rarely find four- and five-meter ones.

But the crowns (rows of masonry) must be made of solid material, without joints. Due to the presence of joints, especially if they are not tight enough, heat loss will occur. What to do when the house is 6x9? For a certain surcharge, you can order material 8, 9 and even 10 meters long.

And one more point is how to calculate the material consumption for construction. Usually, when calculating how much timber is needed for a building, they do not take into account that it has door and window openings. Professional builders believe that throwing 20% on a material is a small problem. But this extra costs for the developer.

It is almost impossible to absolutely accurately calculate the amount of material. There will always be trimmings. For example, when done wooden pediment houses with an attic, then calculate the area of the triangle. But it is not always possible to cut timber so that it can be used entirely. There will definitely be some scraps left.

An example of calculations of wood material for a one-story house

Beam with a cross section of 10×10 cm is suitable for construction country house, which is intended only for temporary residence in summer period. For permanent housing, material with a large cross-section is used. This will make the building warmer and more durable.

Let's try to calculate as accurately as possible how much 150x150 timber is needed for a one-story house with an area of 10x10 meters. Such cottage quite suitable for a small family. It can accommodate the following premises necessary in a residential building:

living room;
nursery;
bedroom;
kitchen;
bathroom;
boiler room

If you make rough calculations, the total length of the walls will be: 10 × 5 + 4 × 4 = 66 m. Of these, 4 are external walls and 5 are internal. Let's take the height as 3 meters, although some make it larger. We decided that we would build from timber with a section of 150 by 150 mm.

So, to find out the volume of material, let’s multiply these indicators: 66 × 3 × 0.15 = 29.7 m³.

But this is a rough estimate. Let's see how to calculate the cubic capacity of the timber more accurately.

It is necessary to take into account that the house has windows and doors. There will be 5 windows, one of them (small) is in the boiler room. There are 6 doors in the house, including the entrance.

In addition, you need to take into account that there are 5 load-bearing walls in the building, and 4 - internal partitions. They can be made from timber of a smaller cross-section, for example 100×100 mm.

So, the windows will occupy the area: 1.5 × 1 × 4 + 1.5 × 0.5 = 6.75. Multiply this number by the thickness of the wall (0.15) and get approximately 1 cubic meter. This is already a significant cost savings. It will be at the very minimum 6,000 rubles. Perhaps such an amount may seem insignificant to some, but, as they say, a penny saves a ruble.

The same calculations need to be made with doorways.

In addition, you don’t have to purchase all the material 10 meters long, for which you will have to pay extra. 10-meter beams will only be needed for the crowns, which will be located under and above window openings. The rest of the material can be 2-, 3-, or better yet, standard 6-meter. This will also provide some savings.

Conclusion on the topic

Lumber manufacturers and sellers never approach construction material calculations in the manner described above. It is in their interests not to take into account possible savings. But the developer must approach the calculations by considering cost savings. After all, by saving a little money on various details, you can get additional material opportunities, for example, for finishing your home.

Calculations for small quantities

As mentioned above, here you just need to multiply the cross-sectional area of one beam by its length. For example, 15 units of timber with a cross-section of 150 x 150 mm and a length of 6 meters were purchased. Find the cross-sectional area of the beam - 0.15 x 0.15 = 0.0225 square meters, after which we multiply this area by 6 and get 0.135 cubic meters. - that’s exactly how much one beam has. After this, we multiply the resulting number by 15 (the number of units of timber) and get 2.025 - the total cubic capacity of the purchased timber.

In this very simple and accessible way, you can count a small amount of timber and other lumber.

It is also necessary to remember that there are special tables - cubatures, which will minimize the use of the calculator and greatly simplify the calculations:

— timber 0.10 x 0.10 x 6 m – 0.060 cubic meters. – 16.67 pieces per cubic meter.
— beam 0.10 x 0.15 x 6 m – 0.090 cubic meters. – 11.11 pieces per cubic meter.
— timber 0.15 x 0.15 x 6 m – 0.135 cubic meters. – 07.41 pieces per cubic meter.
— timber 0.10 x 0.20 x 6 m – 0.120 cubic meters. – 08.33 pieces per cubic meter.
— timber 0.15 x 0.20 x 6 m – 0.180 cubic meters. – 05.56 pieces per cubic meter.
— timber 0.20 x 0.20 x 6 m – 0.240 cubic meters. – 04.17 pieces per cubic meter.

— timber 0.10 x 0.10 x 7 m – 0.070 cubic meters. – 14.28 pieces per cubic meter.
— timber 0.10 x 0.15 x 7 m – 0.105 cubic meters. – 09.52 pieces per cubic meter.
— timber 0.15 x 0.15 x 7 m – 0.1575 cubic meters. – 06.35 pieces per cubic meter.
— timber 0.10 x 0.20 x 7 m – 0.140 cubic meters. – 07.14 pieces per cubic meter.
— timber 0.15 x 0.20 x 7 m – 0.210 cubic meters. – 04.76 pieces per cubic meter.
— timber 0.20 x 0.20 x 7 m – 0.280 cubic meters. – 03.57 pieces per cubic meter.

There are times when you need to buy a large amount of timber for your home, and it can be of different lengths and cross-sectional sizes.

Measuring and calculating each beam with such volumes is not a one-day task.

There is a calculation methodology for such cases, but first we need to understand the concepts of cubic meter of dense wood and folded wood, which exist in forestry merchandising.

Cubic meter of dense wood

A cubic meter of dense wood is the volume of pure wood obtained by measuring a single timber, excluding voids between the timber and other lumber.

Folded cubic meter

A folded cubic meter is dimensions stacks of timber, including voids between the timber.

To find the number of folding cubic meters, we stack the timber as tightly as possible, and the length of the stack should not be longer the main amount of lumber. Joining of short beams is allowed.

Upon completion, we measure the overall length, height and width of the resulting one or more stacks. When multiplying them, we get the folded cubic capacity of your timber, from which, using a special conversion factor, we get the cubic capacity of dense wood, for which you pay money.

The value of the conversion factor for lumber is regulated by a number of state standards (GOST 6564-84, GOST 6782.1-75, GOST 6782.2-75, GOST 13-24-86) and for timber is from 0.74 to 0.82 - depending on the moisture content of the timber and the rock from which it is made.

FOUNDATION:
crushed stone:
6.8 m³ x 1900 RUR/m³	12920 rub.
concrete M200:
5.2 m³ x 4200 RUR/m³	21840 rub.
concrete M200:
22.7 m³ x 4200 RUR/m³	95340 rub.
rod fittings Ø10, 12, 14 AIII:
1.5 t x 37,500 rub./ton	56250 rub.
foundation blocks FBS 24-3-6:
36 pcs. x 2360 rub./pcs.	84960 rub.
cement-sand mixture:
1 m³ x 2700 RUR/m³	2700 rub.
softwood board for formwork:
1.1 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³	7150 rub.
roofing felt RKK-350:
3 rolls x 315 RUR/roll (10m²)	945 rub.

TOTAL: by foundation

282105 rub.

COVERS:
wooden beams 150x50; 170x100; 150x100:
2.6 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³	18200 rub.
Knauf plasterboard slabs (2500x1200x10):
16 pcs. x 260 rub./pcs.	4160 rub.
metal profile with fasteners:
132.5 l.m x 51 rub./l.m	6758 rub.
mineral wool insulation (Rockwool):
11.4 m³ x 3700 RUR/m³	42180 rub.
:
110 m² x 68 RUR/m²	7480 rub.
polyethylene vapor barrier film:
110 m² x 11 RUR/m²	1210 rub.
plywood sheets FC 1525x1525x18:
0.8 m³ x 19,000 rub./m³	15200 rub.
subfloor board:
0.9 m³ x 6500 RUR/m³	5850 rub.

TOTAL: by floors

101038 rub.

ROOF:
pine beams (150x50mm):
2.4 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³	16800 rub.
wood-protective composition:
35 l x 75 rub./liter	2625 rub.
waterproofing film (Tyvek Soft):
107 m² x 68 RUR/m²	7276 rub.
onduline corrugated sheet 2000x950x2.7:
62 sheets x RUB 399/sheet	24738 rub.
roofing nails 73x3mm:
14 pack x 190 rub./pack (250 pcs.)	2660 rub.
corner ridge (1000mm):
10 pieces. x 290 rub./pcs.	2900 rub.
sheathing board 100x25mm:
0.9 m³ x 7000 RUR/m³	6300 rub.

10:0,0,0,260;0,290,260,260;290,290,260,0;290,0,0,0|5:171,171,0,260;0,171,111,111;171,290,160,160|1134:220,160|1334:146,39;146,122|2255:0,155|2155:65,0;65,260;206,260|2422:290,50;290,99|1934:211,-20

RUB 739,542.0

Only for the Moscow region!

Calculation of the cost of work

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Example of 8x7 m layout for calculation	Structural diagram
		1. Wooden beam 150x150mm; 2. slab mineral insulation d=100mm; 3. Plastic siding; 4. Ventilation gap d=20-50mm; 7. Floor beams d=150-250mm; 8. Roof made of ondulin; 9. Monolithic foundation concrete slab and prefabricated blocks h=1.8m;

Wall made of lumber material finished with siding profile and internal heat insulator

Timber wall

The features of timber-timber housing have been proven to neutralize toxic substances, automatically regulate humidity levels in the range of 45-55%, and also have a beneficial effect on the psyche of residents.

The popularity of timber-log architecture in our country is predetermined by the cost-effectiveness, traditionalism and healthy environment of house-building from natural solids.

At construction bases it is possible to find timber products of standard sizes 150x100, 200x150, 100x100, 140x140, 180x180, 150x150, 120x120, of which the most purchased type is 150x150, as it provides optimal combination the complexity of installation, determined by the number of horizontal seams, and thermal insulation qualities, as well as an affordable price.

It should be added that now the share of sales of profiled, in particular, prefabricated laminated timber is clearly growing, which is characterized, in comparison with non-laminated wood, by 10 times lower compressibility when drying, as well as increased, due to tenoned joints, structural and thermal insulation qualities . Evident negative point, slowing down the widespread use of glued lumber material, is its significant cost, which, nevertheless, is compensated a hundredfold by its long service life.

Approximate procedure for laying a timber frame:

First, on top of the foundation, covered with waterproof material, along the line of the walls, the lower row of timber is laid out, which is tied “into a paw” at the corners and at the points where intermediate walls are connected.
To prevent door and window structures from deforming during shrinkage wooden house, door and window niches are surrounded on the sides by a “window” - profile posts. To do this, a trapezoidal tenon is cut out at the ends of the logs, onto which the so-called profiled beams are pushed, using a counter cutout. Technological gaps are placed along the top of doors and windows, filled with flax-jute or basalt insulation.
During the installation of a log house, log rows are covered with an inter-row compactor: felt, jute, flax jute, hemp, flax wool, tow, which after a year (or when the humidity of the tree becomes 12-15 percent) will have to be compacted a second time in order to reduce heat loss through the gaps between logs.
In order to connect the beams of the nearest crowns, dowel fastenings are used (rounded birch or oak rods with a diameter of 30-40 mm), which are inserted with a gap into the holes made through the three crowns of the beams, in increments of 0.3...0.4 m. Often, the dowel fastening is replaced with large nails (250...300 mm), with the obligatory drilling of a channel in the last log, 30÷40 mm deep, into which the nail head is buried to compensate for the linear compression of the wooden material during drying.
When choosing interior decoration it is necessary to take into account the permanent deformations of the wooden material and, when fastening non-wooden facing boards (for example, plasterboard), avoid direct connections with timber wall, through the installation of suspended buffer profile structures.

Siding cladding

In cases where winter habitation is expected, it is recommended that the timber structure be further insulated. Usually, on the street side, in a vertical position, thick boards, 100x50 mm in size, are mounted in increments of 0.4...0.6 m, between which thermal insulation mats, for example, such as: Rockwool, P-175, Izomin, Isover, P-125, PPZh-200, Ursa, Knauf, Izorok, after which a vapor-permeable film (Tyvek, Yutavek, Izospan) is stretched, lined with blocks, 25-50 mm thick on which the front false wall is installed (PVC siding, wooden lining or CBPB boards).

You need to know that the PVC siding profile will be used for many years and have a beautiful appearance only if the installation rules are strictly followed.

Manufacturers of plastic siding profiles, for example, brands: Snowbird, Gentek, Docke, Nordside, AltaProfile, Orto, Holzplast, Tecos, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Mitten, FineBer, Vytec, announce a rich color scheme, allowing any building to maintain its individuality.

Since the PVC siding profile greatly changes linear dimensions When temperature fluctuates, it is important to provide for non-rigid attachment of vinyl plates.

PVC siding does not rot, is resistant to impact, biological, and climatic aggressions, and does not support combustion.

Vinyl profile exposed open flame it only melts, igniting when heated to more than 390°C (and wood is already at 230-260°C), quickly extinguishing when the heating source disappears, while the amount of emissions hazardous to health is no more significant than when burning wood materials.

Important points for fastening PVC siding:

The installation of PVC panels is carried out “from the ground”, and first the hidden starting strip is fixed.
To compensate for free compression or expansion of polymer siding, gaps should be provided, within 1 cm, in the areas where external networks enter (pipes, wires, brackets, cables), as well as in the areas where plastic panels and accessories join ( external corner, internal corner, H-profile, platband, etc.).
It is unacceptable to forcefully tighten the screws in the fixing grooves, because the siding profiles are suspended in such a way as to move freely from side to side.
In order not to interfere with thermal movements and, accordingly, not to provoke wave-like warping vinyl material, it is more correct to screw in self-tapping screws and nails into the siding panel at the central point of the existing technological perforations.
When hanging another strip of siding, attach it to the trailer ledge with the underlying profile and, without deforming it, secure it with screws;
It is recommended to install vinyl profiles starting from the side wall of the building, moving to the front side, while each successive siding panel will overlap the previous one in the laid row, approximately 2.5-3 cm - this approach makes it possible to make the joints inconspicuous, with For the same purpose, the resulting joints for connecting rows need to be shifted horizontally.

Foundation made of reinforced concrete slab and prefabricated block tape

A prefabricated slab foundation is constructed over the entire area of the structure in the form of a continuous reinforced slab on which standard reinforced concrete blocks are mounted.

The type of foundation under consideration is used in low-rise housing construction to obtain the basement level of the house, on heterogeneous soils, in situations low level groundwater. In swampy areas, it is recommended to construct the side walls of the foundation using a monolithic method, using waterproofing measures (coating, impregnation, gluing).

At the same time, the prefabricated block system vertical walls foundation, according to the existing reinforced concrete slab, is indispensable for limited construction periods, as well as for foundation work in winter.

An approximate method for performing whole- slab foundation side walls in the form of a prefabricated reinforced concrete strip:

First, the earth is removed to the planned level.
Gravel preparation, fractions 20-40, in a layer of 15-20 cm is poured onto the resulting base and compacted thoroughly.
Performed concrete pouring, layer 50 mm.
A waterproofing film is applied with a distance of 2000 mm along the border, for the purpose of further waterproofing the sidewalls of the foundation.
For protection waterproofing membrane from accidental breaks during welding reinforcement structure, another layer of sand-cement mortar, 5 cm thick, is applied on top of the insulating coating, along the perimeter of which formwork panels are installed according to the thickness of the foundation slab.
The foundation slab being manufactured is tightened from the inside with two meshes of welded reinforcing bars of section d14, type AII-AIII, with cells of 20x20 cm.
In the case of a slab foundation, it is required ready-mixed concrete, brand, not lower than M300, fed by automixer.
The hardening time of the concrete solution, when the perimeter should be laid out from ready-made concrete blocks, is from 4 weeks, at a temperature of + 15 ± 5 °.
The laying of concrete blocks is carried out relative to the axial lines, along two mutually perpendicular walls, guided by geodetic equipment. Prefabricated blocks are laid with a crane on a “bed” of sand-cement mortar.
Installation begins with laying beacon blocks at the crossroads of the axes and at the corners of the building. The laying of wall blocks begins only after the position of the reference blocks has been verified along the horizon and level.
On the top row of reinforced concrete blocks, in a panel formwork form, a reinforced reinforced concrete screed, 25 cm thick, is made.

Floor made of wooden beams

Wood is traditionally used for beams coniferous varieties(spruce, pine, larch), with a moisture content of less than 14 percent. The best beam is a block with section proportions 7/5 (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).

IN dacha construction ceilings made of wooden beams, due to the simplicity and low cost of their construction.

When planning a wood-beam floor, it is necessary to use special diagrams that determine the correlation of beam sizes with the distance between supports and load; It is also permissible to proceed from the simplified calculation that the wide side of the beam should be approximately 1/24 of the length of the beam, and the thickness - 5÷10 cm, with intervals between beam boards of 50 - 100 cm and a load of 1.5 kPa.

If there is a shortage of lags of the design cross-section, it is permissible to use boards fastened with bolts, subject to mandatory observance of the total size.

Some features of installing wood beams:

The installation of beams is done in the following order: first the first and last, and then, with leveling according to the optical level, all the others. The bars must start on wall structure no shorter than 150-200 mm.
The logs are moved away from the wall by at least 50 mm, and the space between the beams and smoke channel must be at least 0.40 m.
V wooden buildings the ends of the logs are cut into the shape of a cone, and then hammered into the cut of the upper crown to the full thickness of the wall log.
As a rule, in brick walls, the ends of the beams are installed in masonry nests in which condensation appears, therefore, between the cuts of the ends of the joists and the wall, space is left for air circulation, and if the opening is significant, an additional felt layer is placed.
To avoid molding, which occurs during diffusion of steam surrounded by a brick wall, the ends of the beam boards are cut with a slope of approximately 60 degrees and treated with an antiseptic (Tikkurila, Kartotsid, Dulux, Biofa, Pinotex, Tex, Cofadex, Biosept, KSD, Holzplast, Senezh, Teknos , Aquatex) and cover with roofing felt, leaving the end uncovered.

The attic floor is insulated with a vapor barrier layer under the insulation; the basement floor is thermally insulated with installation vapor barrier film on top of a layer of insulation, and the interfloor ceiling is not subject to insulation.

If the question is the load capacity of wooden interfloor ceilings is mainly settled by the method of obvious increment in the cross-section of beams and their number, then with fire resistance and acoustic insulation the situation is somewhat more complicated.

One of the options for increasing the soundproof and fireproof performance of timber interlevel ceilings consists of the following steps:

To the bottom of the beam beams, perpendicular to them, with the help of elastic holders, after 30-40 cm, lathing bars are installed, onto which gypsum boards are attached from below.
A fiberglass film is spread onto the upper surface of the resulting lattice structure and stapled to the beams, onto which mineral fiber boards, such as: Isorok, Ursa, Isover, Knauf, Isomin, Rockwool, are tightly laid out, with a layer of 50 mm, with a transition to side faces beams
In the rooms of the next level, a layer of chipboard (16÷25 mm) is nailed onto the beams, after that, a hard mineral fiber sound absorber (25÷30 mm) is laid again chipboards"floating" floor.

Bitumen slate roofing

Soft slate (also known as ondulin slate, ondulin, euro slate, bituminized slate, bitumen slate) is essentially a molded cardboard-cellulose material, fixed with a distilled bitumen compound and colored with a polymer, ultraviolet-resistant, coloring composition. bitumen slate is made under various brands (Bituwell, Aqualine, Nuline, Onduline, Guttanit, Ondura, Corrubit). Usual dimensions of corrugated sheets: 2000x950, number of waves - 10.

The main qualities of bitumen slate roofing- speed of construction and affordable cost. In part weak points, it is worth mentioning the rather transient loss of richness of color, as well as the noticeable flammability of bitumen-cardboard material, compared to metal tiles.

Roofing material is laid on solid foundation, made of sheathing layer and rafter beams.

In the case of private buildings, a structure of two or three spans with intermediate supporting walls and inclined rafter beams is usually used.

The interval between the rafter legs is usually in the range of 0.60...0.90 m with a width/thickness of the rafter legs of 5x15...10x15 cm; the supporting ends of the rafter beams are fixed to a fixing beam measuring 100x100...150x150 mm.

The transverse overlap of bitumen slate sheets and the frequency of laying sheathing are determined by the slope roof slope: if the angle is more than 15 degrees, then the gap between the boards of the sheathing structure is set to 0.30...0.35 m, and the overlap is 17 centimeters.
It is better to fasten corrugated ondulin sheets from the lower zone of the side part of the slope, opposite to the leeward side, to protect them from wrapping under hurricane loads.
The next layer is laid with a shift halfway across the sheet, from the sheets of the underlying tier, in order to avoid unnecessary layering at the joints of four adjacent sheets, which contributes to the formation of leaks.
Euro slate sheets are fixed along the bottom edge to each wave crest, along two intermediate sheathing boards - to odd wave crests, and the top is covered with an overlap of the top sheet or a ridge piece. To secure each corrugated sheet, about twenty roofing self-tapping screws (size 65.0x5.5 mm) or nails: length/diameter -73.5/3.0 mm with elastomeric washers are enough.
It is enough to arrange the row overlap of the canvases in one wave, and when the roof slope is less than 10-11 degrees. - in 2 corrugated waves.
The ridge is strengthened from the side where the corrugated sheets are laid, with an overlap of 0.2 m, with screws being screwed into each corrugation vertex of the underlying corrugated sheet.
In order to protect and decorate the side sections of the roof slope, chip profiles are used, the fastening of which begins from the corner above the cornice, with an overlap of 0.2 m.