Restoration of cast iron bathtubs with acrylic. Restoring acrylic bathtub coating

One of the most important advantages of cast iron baths is their durability. Such plumbing can serve faithfully for several decades, maintaining its technical characteristics. However, over time, the bath may lose its original whiteness.

Agree, not everyone is ready to get rid of high-quality cast iron in favor of plastic or steel counterparts. An alternative solution is to restore the bathtub with liquid acrylic at home. The work is simple, but requires compliance with some nuances.

We will tell you how to choose high-quality acrylic for a bathtub, identify manufacturers you can trust, and also describe in detail the sequence of updating old plumbing fixtures. The information provided will help home craftsmen restore the former gloss of the coating and extend the service life of the font.

First, let's understand the terms. The domestic market for acrylic products designed to restore the bowl of a well-used bathtub is full of brands. "Plastol", "Yarli", "Standard", "Stakryl", Finnacryl and even "Eco-enamel"- there are many names.

All enamels are two-component, approximately similar in price - 1400-1500 rubles. for a 3.4 kg jar, which is enough to cover a one and a half meter container with acrylic.

All paints and varnishes of the “liquid acrylic” group, incl. Each brand listed above carries out bathtub restoration. The walls of the sanitary bowl are poured with two-component acrylic, which polymerizes and hardens, turning into a smooth and durable coating within a day.

The self-leveling bath is not a commercial product, but a painting technology. It consists of pouring a new paint coating over the existing worn-out layer of paint. Manufacturers are developing their own acrylic-enamel series of restoration materials for bathtubs, the formulas of which are carefully hidden from competing enterprises.

Among masters who restore bathtub containers and their clients, liquid acrylic of any brand is usually called glass acrylic. Although “Stakril” is a brand of the St. Petersburg enterprise “Ekolor”, popular rumor assigns the name of its brand to all liquid acrylic compositions.

The usual kit with liquid acrylic comes with a bottle of hardener. Some manufacturers offer
set of three products – liquid acrylic, hardener and degreaser

The reason is simple: “Stacryl” was the first widely advertised polymer material for bathroom restoration, which is why it became a household name for liquid acrylics in general. The technically correct name for acrylic-based bath paints is “self-leveling acrylic.”

Therefore, when choosing an acrylic bathroom paint, you need to name a specific brand of product, and not “you have acrylic.”

Now about the quality. Manufacturers of bulk acrylics LLC "Ekolor" (brand "Stakril"), LLC "Plastol", LLC "Ekovanna" and CJSC NPK "YarLi" (brand "Yarli") are the largest enterprises in Russia.

It is their products that are recognized as the highest quality on the domestic market. To independently repair the enamel coating of a bathroom, you should choose one of the mentioned brands.

In addition to having their own technical laboratories, many years of experience in the production and distribution of products throughout Russia, the products of all four listed manufacturers of self-leveling acrylic have one more advantage - they are trying to imitate it.

On the one hand, this is a plus, because it makes no sense to produce counterfeits under a bad brand and product. However, there is also an obvious disadvantage - the likelihood of purchasing a low-quality product.

The manufacturing company of Stakril has not changed the design of its packaging for many years. Therefore, any other colors on
acrylic containers mean only one thing - fake

Fake poured acrylic

There are more and more homeowners interested in restoring bathtub enamel every year. Following the growing demand, manufacturers of self-leveling acrylic are expanding production and improving a series of acrylic enamels for plumbing equipment. But a variety of types of “entrepreneurs” strive to make money from this paintwork.

First type: small companies intending to fill a niche in the local market. Before reaching consumers with the liquid acrylic of their production, they buy the products of large companies in bulk, bottle them in their own containers and sell them under their brand.

Having won over buyers to the “new product” after several months of sales, such companies begin to bottle not other people’s products, but their own. Without sufficient funds and equipment, these companies develop acrylic technologies with “optimal characteristics”, using raw materials from dubious suppliers.

Second type: similar enterprises also purchase large quantities of liquid acrylic with hardener from well-known manufacturers, but only in original containers with a label.

Next, each container is opened, a portion of the product is poured out and the solvent is added. Diluted acrylic is taken to the market and sold under the guise of the original product.

If liquid acrylic is diluted with a solvent, its performance characteristics will sharply decrease. This coating does not adhere well to the bathtub; it is too liquid and brittle. After a short period of time, the painted bathtub turns yellow and the enamel peels off. Please note that liquid acrylic cannot be diluted with anything other than the included hardener.

This counterfeit can be easily recognized by the incorrect color of the label and the low-quality plastic from which its container is made. Similar “products” regularly appear in various regions of Russia

Third type: a small enterprise purchases several containers of liquid acrylic from well-known brands and tries to copy them. Having developed a very approximate formula and technological process, this company purchases the cheapest possible raw materials. The production of products with bright labels and names begins.

The manufacturer does not make any attempts to popularize a specific product brand, because The product is of low quality and soon there will be no buyers for it. However, the company often changes the shape of the containers and the name of the product, thereby restarting its sales again and again. Such liquid acrylic cannot be called high-quality, only cheap.

Nikolay Fedorenko

Its largest domestic manufacturers have been working on improving the formula and the technological process for producing liquid acrylic for over five to eight years each. Only their products can last as long as possible, are odorless and resistant to yellowing. Therefore, it is necessary to choose enamels from large enterprises for bath repairs.

Nikolay Fedorenko Expert in the field of arrangement of sewerage systems and water supply systems

In regional markets of Russia, counterfeits of acrylic enamels most often appear "Stakryl", "Ekovanna" And "Plastol". To interfere with imitators, manufacturers of these brands periodically change the color design and shape of cans with liquid acrylic and a hardener.

You can find out the actual type of the brand you are interested in by visiting the manufacturer’s website and studying the product description page.

However, the goods are distributed differently in different regions - some batches are sold out for months. Within the factory warranty period and subject to proper storage procedures, packaged liquid acrylic is completely suitable for use.

Let's assume that you are offered a brand product, say, "Plastol" - the expiration date is fine, but the bucket is designed in an outdated design of the manufacturer. The seller explains: the batch of acrylic arrived before the Plastol company changed the design of the cans, but otherwise the product is original.

Inspect the bucket of acrylic and the bottle of hardener:

• Marking on the lid. Plastol prints the batch number on the lids of the cans using laser lithography. Manufacturers of “Ekovanna” and “Stakril” mark the lids with adhesive labels with the batch number printed on them. There should be no other labels on the lids.
• Cap color. Be sure to make sure that the color of the caps on the jar and bottle matches the image of the product on the manufacturer’s website.
• Brand logo. Labels on the sides of cans and bottles must contain the actual manufacturer's logo;
• The correctness of the sticker. Labels on the sides of acrylic cans and on solvent bottles are applied by the original manufacturer using in-line machine adhesive. Distortions and crumpled areas mean that the label was affixed by hand and is a fake;
• Integrity of the filling. The plastic fuse on the caps of the bottle with hardener and the jar of liquid acrylic must be intact (not broken).

The caps of bottles containing liquid hardener are usually signed with a marker when releasing a batch - this is normal. There is not enough space on the bottle cap to fully print or place a label.

Additional information about the types of self-leveling acrylic, as well as tips for choosing restoration enamel, are given in the articles:

Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration

Restoring the enamel coating of a bathtub bowl yourself will save you an average of 1,200-1,700 rubles (that’s what craftsmen charge). However, you need to evaluate your skills before starting work: a minimum of experience in assembling plumbing fixtures and performing painting work is essential.

The process of preparing the bath and casting a new coating requires care, otherwise long-term quality cannot be achieved.

Materials and tools used

So, you have purchased a sufficient amount of liquid acrylic and hardener. Please note: you need enough acrylic enamel to finish your bathroom. Soviet-made models have a length of 1400-1700 mm, European products are made with a maximum length of 1800 mm.

All required tools and protective equipment must be prepared before starting work on the “fill bath”.
Carefully evaluate your readiness for work. At the stripping stage, stopping work is still permissible, but after
You can’t stop mixing acrylic with hardener

Manufacturers indicate on containers with liquid acrylic the length of the bath for which the calibrated volume of material is calculated. Measure the length of the bowl along its center, from the edge of one side to the edge of the other. If your object of work is longer than the size indicated on the jar of acrylic, you need to buy more material. It is important.

For enameling using the “fill bath” technology, the following tools and materials are needed:

1. Kneading device. When manually mixing acrylic with hardener and color, you will need a wooden or plastic spatula - blade width 40-60 mm, handle length 500-600 mm. Mixing with a drill and mixer should not be done, only by hand.
2. Sandpaper- 5 pieces. (230*280 mm). You need sandpaper grade P60 (according to ISO-6344) or 25-H (according to GOST 3647-80) on a fabric basis, waterproof.
3. Solvent No. 646 or 647. It will be required to degrease the surface of the bathtub bowl after sanding and washing it.
4. Putty knife– width 100 mm. A metal spatula will do, but only a new one, without dirt or rusty streaks.
5. Adhesive tape– tape, 50 mm wide. You will need two types of tape - masking tape (on paper) and fastening tape (on film).
6. Wallpaper knife. Necessary for cutting tape and trimming dried acrylic streaks from the bathroom drain hole before reinstalling the drain and overflow.
7. Screwdrivers- straight and cross to remove the drain-overflow siphon. A gas wrench may also be required;
8. Stool. It is much more convenient to mix acrylic with a hardener and put the prepared enamel into a container for application if you place a bucket of liquid acrylic on a stool.

In principle, to prepare the walls and bottom of the bathtub for casting with acrylic, manual processing with sandpaper is sufficient. But only if it has not been painted with anything before, i.e. Factory enamel on the surface. Otherwise, you will need to clean it with a drill or grinder.

To remove secondary enamel, the drill requires a Velcro attachment and sanding wheels of grade P40 (or 40-H); for an angle grinder, grinding wheels of the same brand are needed.

Required protective equipment:

1. Work clothes– trousers, long sleeve shirt or jacket. Drops of acrylic on the skin are not dangerous, but once they dry, they are quite difficult to remove.
2. Headdress- at least a headscarf. Hair should not get on the enamel coating during the casting process.
3. Respirator– at least a “petal”. Cleaning the bathtub will cause a strong release of dust; you should not breathe such air.
4. Disposable latex gloves. Hands must be protected from contact with liquid acrylic.

You will need newspaper sheets or PVC film to cover and hang the surfaces around the restored plumbing fixtures. We remind you: drops of cured acrylic spilled during the restoration process are very difficult to remove.

Preparing the bathroom

Collect and remove items usually found in this room: toothbrushes, towels, laundry basket, other cosmetic and hygiene items. The shower curtain should be removed, and if possible, the curtain bar should also be removed.

It should be noted that bowls with cracks cannot be restored. Therefore, you will have to install it.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Enameling a bowl with acrylic that was previously painted with another enamel and requires puttying of individual areas:

Video instructions for restoring the finishing of a bathtub with liquid acrylic from the manufacturer of restoration compositions "Plastol":

The following video describes the process of installing the trim, which was dismantled before applying acrylic enamel:

Following the instructions in the article, you will restore the enamel coating of the bathtub yourself. The updated container will last as long as it was carefully repaired.

Please note that self-leveling acrylic finishes require careful cleaning. You cannot use abrasive products, only liquid ones; substances containing a solvent are also not suitable.

Share with readers your experience in restoring an old cast iron bathtub. Please leave comments on the article, ask questions that interest you, participate in discussions and attach photos of your updated plumbing. The feedback form is located below.

Replacing a bathtub can easily be called the most problematic stage of “secondary renovation”. As a rule, it is associated not only with dismantling and plumbing work, but also with partial disruption of the tiles laid both on the walls and on the floor. Fortunately, modern construction technologies make it possible to significantly simplify this process, namely, to do the restoration of the bathtub yourself. One of the most popular methods is the use of liquid acrylic. We will talk about it in this article.

Is it necessary to restore the bathtub?

Before moving directly to the consideration of the relevant technology, let's figure out whether it makes sense to restore the bathtub, and whether it would be easier to replace it with a new one.

Restoring bathtubs in general and with poured acrylic in particular has a number of undeniable advantages. Firstly, there is no need to disturb the existing renovation, be it tiles or wallpaper. This not only greatly simplifies the process, but also makes it possible to significantly save on restoring the finishing of the bathroom. Secondly, restoration of even the most “dead” bathtub will cost much less than replacing it, even with the cheapest analogue. And finally, restoration will take much less time than replacement, since the procedure does not require shutting off the water and other “plumbing complications.”

Liquid acrylic allows you to save even the most “dead” bathtub

Advantages and disadvantages of liquid acrylic

One of the most common methods of restoring bathtubs is restoration with liquid acrylic.

The material is a two-component liquid, which, when mixed, hardens, forming a solid surface that perfectly hides any defects in the old bathtub.

Liquid acrylic is supplied in the form of two separate containers with base material and hardener

Compared to other restoration materials, liquid acrylic has several advantages:

• Allows you to hide both small and large defects.
• Resistant to damage and dirt. With proper care, an acrylic bathtub can maintain its attractive appearance for 10-15 years.

• Increases the heat and sound insulation of the bath. Water in a bathtub coated with liquid acrylic takes much longer to cool down than in a steel or cast iron counterpart.

• The restoration method with liquid acrylic gives excellent results at a relatively low cost.

Although it is worth clarifying that with all the listed advantages, liquid acrylic also has a number of disadvantages. It dries for quite a long time (from 24 to 48 hours), has a specific odor during application and is very susceptible to contamination during the drying stage, so when carrying out work it is necessary to protect the bathtub as thoroughly as possible from dust and dirt getting into it.

However, all these shortcomings are more than compensated by the advantages of this material, so we can safely say: restoration of bathtubs with liquid acrylic takes first place among similar methods in terms of price-quality.

Preparation for the process

Let's look at the entire process of restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic. First, let's look at the "source material". It is precisely this seemingly irretrievably damaged bathtub that we will try to restore.

Self-leveling acrylic will cope even with such a bathroom

The technology for restoration with liquid acrylic is not very complicated, however, for everything to be successful, the bathtub must be properly prepared.

First of all, the surface is treated with some abrasive agent. A grinder with a grinding attachment is best suited for this purpose.

It is best to clean the surface using a grinder

This, firstly, will remove remaining contaminants from the surface of the bathtub, and secondly, it will make its surface rougher, which will make it much easier for the acrylic to “grab.”

After the bath has been treated, the remaining dust and dirt are removed from its surface, it is thoroughly washed and degreased with any available means (for example, ordinary acetone is quite suitable for this purpose).

At this point, the process of preparing for applying acrylic can be considered complete.

Replacing the old drain and overflow will give the restored bath a completely fresh look

Ideally, before applying liquid acrylic to the bathtub, you should remove the old drain and overflow, and after restoration, replace them with new ones. But since this does not affect the restoration process itself, in order to save money, this stage can be skipped.

Step-by-step instruction

1. The first step is to mix the acrylic with the hardener and let it sit for 15-20 minutes to begin the necessary chemical reactions.

   To avoid acrylic and hardener must be mixed very carefully

   Please note that this must be done immediately before starting work, since otherwise the acrylic will thicken and become unsuitable for pouring.

2. A little diluted acrylic is poured directly onto the bottom of the bathtub and, using a special plastic spatula, they begin to “lay” it on the sides, allowing the remaining material to flow freely into the bathtub.

   To apply acrylic, it is best to use a plastic spatula.

3. When the sides are completely covered with a layer of acrylic, the material continues to be applied to the middle part of the walls of the bathtub.

   Acrylic is applied from top to bottom until all sides of the bathtub are covered with it.

   If small smudges form during the draining process, they can be smoothed out with the same plastic spatula.

4. When the entire bathtub, including the bottom, is covered with a layer of acrylic, all that remains is to slightly smooth out the smudges and the filling work can be considered complete.

   After a couple of hours, the old bathtub is almost unrecognizable!

Now you need to wait for the acrylic to dry completely - as a rule, this takes from 24 to 48 hours, depending on the brand of material, install a new drain and overflow (if, of course, you removed the old ones), and at this point the restoration work can be considered complete.

Video: restoration of a bathtub using the pouring method

Possible mistakes

Although the filling procedure is quite simple, errors still occur during its implementation that can negatively affect the final result.

• Poor bath preparation. If the surface of the bathtub has not been properly cleaned and there are areas of rust, dirt or grease left on it, then in the future this may lead to peeling of the acrylic in these places. The same applies to a poorly dried bathtub.
• Incorrect mixing of components. If the components of liquid acrylic are mixed poorly, or if the mixture is used after the recommended period, drips and bulges may form on the surface of the bathtub, which will be very difficult to remove.
• Work is carried out in inappropriate temperature conditions. It is recommended to fill at a temperature of 16 to 25 °C. A significant deviation from these indicators may adversely affect the final result.

Well, as, in fact, when carrying out any work, during the restoration of the bathtub you should not rush, but do everything, as they say, “with feeling, with sense, with arrangement.” And then the process of restoring the bathtub with liquid acrylic will go without problems.

Proper care

As we have already said, acrylic can retain its original attractive appearance for more than ten years. However, for this you need to properly care for it. Do not wash the acrylic surface with detergents containing an abrasive component. This also applies to rags and washcloths that you will use to wipe the bathtub. For washing acrylic, the usual liquid detergent that you use for dishes is perfect, although special “cleaners” can also purchase special preparations for caring for liquid acrylic.

There are special care products for acrylic, but if they are not available, you can get by with regular dishwashing detergents

And also, if you are going to bathe large pets in an acrylic bathtub, then it is worth purchasing a special rubber mat that will protect the acrylic surface from their claws.

As you can see, restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic is a fairly simple procedure and does not require serious expenses. We are sure that thanks to our advice you will easily cope with it. Good luck with your renovation!

Born in 1977 in Donetsk, Ukraine. Graduated from the Donetsk Polytechnic Institute (now Donetsk State Technical University) with a degree in Automated Control Systems. Worked at the Donetsk Metallurgical Plant. In 1997 he moved to Moscow, where for 8 years he worked in several construction teams.

- the most popular service for economical and practical updating of old enamel. If the bathtub in your apartment has darkened, rust, stains, or smudges have appeared on it, do not rush to replace it. The situation can be corrected in a simpler and more economical way. The modern restoration technology “Floating bath” using “Liquid acrylic” enamel allows you to give your bathtub a new life. This technology has already proven itself to be the most advanced and economical.

ANYTHING YOU NEED:

Restoring a bathtub with acrylic

It would seem like a simple matter to cover it with a layer of new enamel, but you can’t do it without a specialist. Experts warn that you should not try to restore the bathtub yourself; it is not as easy to do as it might seem at first glance. In order for the surface of the bathtub to properly fix liquid acrylic, it must be prepared. At the first stage of work, the master cleans the bathtub using a drill and sandpaper.

Then the surface of the bath is washed, dried and degreased, and any defects are puttied. The bathtub is cleaned of old enamel and rust, and only after that can the renovation begin.
Having prepared the acrylic working composition, the specialist applies it to the surface of the bathtub. Acrylic is applied using the pouring method; for this you do not need to use a roller or, especially, a brush. Starting from the upper sides, the master evenly pours liquid acrylic. Following all the curves of the bathtub and filling all the cracks, the acrylic coating forms an even glossy layer. The thickness of the acrylic layer reaches from 2 to 6 mm, which ensures the strength, durability and heat resistance of the coating without leaving streaks, smudges or other defects.

Remember that an unprepared, specially trained person will not be able to apply liquid acrylic correctly. Use the services of professionals to get the desired result. The work of a bathtub restoration specialist will take only 2-3 hours and after 36 hours you can use your new bathtub.

The adhesion of acrylic to the bathtub is so great that it can increase its service life to 15 or even 20 years. Self-leveling acrylic will not crack or peel off; this coating has an exceptionally smooth surface, for this reason dirt and rust do not clog into it. The restored bathtub can be easily washed with ordinary gel products.
After the acrylic pouring procedure, your bathtub will acquire a beautiful shiny gloss. The surface will be smooth, resistant to bacteria, mechanical and chemical influences. Self-leveling acrylic is an environmentally friendly material with thermal insulation and sound insulation properties.

Restoring a bathtub with enamel

Resurfacing a bathtub using enamel is a method that has been in demand for many years due to the lack of good alternatives, and may now still be feasible in some cases.

When factory enamel loses its appearance, acquires a gray tint from ingrained dirt, becomes covered with reddish rust stains and a network of cracks of varying depths, you can try to revive it with a new layer of enamel. Of course, you shouldn’t expect this layer to be as durable as one that has already served for several decades. Restoring a bathtub with enamel is a cosmetic coating that will return the bathtub’s beauty, shine and whiteness, but, unfortunately, for a short period of time.

Bathtub restoration enamel is essentially epoxy paint that is mixed with a hardener immediately before work begins. The mixture, prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, is applied to the surface previously prepared for coating. To ensure good adhesion, old enamel is removed using sandpaper and powder. All cracks, chips and potholes are cleaned to a metallic shine, all material detachments are removed. Particularly deep surface defects are filled with a primer.

Before applying the enamel, the bath is heated, filled with hot water, and degreased with White Spirit solvent. The surface is coated using a brush or roller in thin layers. Depending on the type of enamel used and the visual effect that appears during the work, the master can apply from 2 to 4 layers.

An enamel-coated bathtub will be ready for use in no earlier than 5 days. This is exactly how much the material will need for good adhesion to the surface and complete drying. In order for the resulting effect of whiteness and glossy shine to remain for as long as possible, you need to use the bathtub very carefully. To do this, you should avoid impacts, exposure to metal objects, dropping heavy objects on the surface, cleaning with aggressive agents and hard brushes.

Even with the most gentle use, you should not count on very long use of a bathtub restored with enamel. It will retain its presentable appearance for no more than 1 year. Therefore, it makes sense to immediately pay attention to restoration methods that will provide a more durable and high-quality coating.

Restoration of bathtubs price

There is another argument in favor of restoring a bathtub with self-leveling acrylic - the price is very favorable for the consumer. Judge for yourself, the cost of restoring a bathtub is almost 3 times cheaper than buying a new one, and there is less hassle during repairs. There is no need to dismantle the old bathtub or take it out, risking damage to the tiles or wall tiles.

Restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic is a smart choice for those who are used to saving time and money!

Liquid acrylic is a modern material with which you can perform high-quality bathtub restoration with your own hands. It consists of a base having a fairly high density and a hardener. Can be used for the restoration of steel, cast iron and acrylic bathtubs.

Materials and tools

To restore the bathtub, you will need bulk liquid acrylic, cleaning and degreasing products for plumbing fixtures, and soda. Please note that liquid acrylic is sold in containers designed for bathtub sizes - 1.2, 1.5 or 1.7 m.

You need to prepare a tool for work:

• grinder;
• drill;
• whisk attachment;
• pliers;
• sandpaper of various grain sizes;
• rubber spatula;
• respirator;
• vacuum cleaner;
• sponge;
• gloves;
• flashlight.

When using a drill to sand the surface of the bathtub, you will need a special attachment.
Note: a hair dryer and a utility knife will be useful for removing non-factory enamel if the bathtub has already been restored with it.
You also need polyethylene to protect the floor and walls (you can use rags or newspapers).

Preparing the bath

The appearance and service life of the applied coating will depend on the quality of preparation. First, the overflow and drain are removed. Using a grinder or a drill with a grinding attachment, you need to carefully treat the surface of the bathtub. For this purpose, sandpaper for rough work 40-N or 32-N is used (according to GOST 3647-80). Emery will also help remove any water deposits that have formed. The surface after sanding should be rough to ensure good adhesion of liquid acrylic.

Note: non-factory enamel, previously applied to restore the bathtub, is removed with a utility knife after heating with a hairdryer.

The bathtub needs to be cleaned and any remaining debris removed. Then the surface is treated with a plumbing cleaner - the poured product must be spread with a sponge over the entire surface of the bathtub, including the installation location of the removed overflow.

The bath is washed again and left to dry. After drying, the next important stage of work begins - degreasing. Soda is poured into the bath and thoroughly rubbed over the entire surface with coarse sandpaper.

Perhaps degreasing will need to be done not once, but two or three times. You must work with gloves. Then the bath is thoroughly washed with a stream of water from the shower.

Before starting the next stage, you need to remove the siphon.

The installation site of the siphon must be cleaned, degreased and rinsed from soda residues.

The mixer and shower are covered with a bag and secured with tape - water should not get on the applied layer of liquid acrylic until it dries completely. The tiles and shelves above the bathtub are cleaned of dust particles with a cloth. Do not allow sanding dust to get on the acrylic.

After completing this stage, the bath should be thoroughly dried with a hairdryer. Particular attention is paid to places where water can collect: the joints of the tiles and the bathtub, under the side, which is installed at the junction of the tiles and the bathtub. It is better to remove the rim and carry out the restoration of the bathtub without it. The cement joints at the junction with the bathroom can be dried well with a hairdryer.

To eliminate defects in factory enamel (cracks, chips), use quick-drying automotive putty.

The composition is stirred and applied to the damaged areas with a rubber spatula, after which it is allowed to dry.

While the putty dries, cover the floor under the bathtub and the tiles at the joints with polyethylene or newspapers, which are secured with tape.

This way, when pouring liquid acrylic, it will not spoil floor and wall tiles.
After the putty has dried, these places are covered with fine sandpaper. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust particles from the bathtub.

Use a degreasing agent (acetone) to wipe the areas where cracks and chips have been putty. You should also wipe the installation areas of the overflow and siphon with acetone. Place a container under the drain hole (you can use a cut plastic bottle). Excess liquid acrylic will drain into this container.

Coating

After completing the preparatory work, they begin to prepare liquid acrylic. The hardener is added to the material in parts and thoroughly mixed using a drill with a whisk attachment.

It is necessary to achieve complete mixing of the two components, not forgetting about the material in the corners and at the bottom of the jar with liquid acrylic. Otherwise, the layer of applied acrylic will dry unevenly. You need to stir the mixture for 10 minutes.
Important! Do not forget about the pot life of the finished mixture, which is indicated on the packaging. During this time, you need to completely complete the work.
Before pouring the composition is allowed to stand for 5-10 minutes. To work, you will need a plastic container into which acrylic is poured. You can use a trimmed and well-wiped hardener bottle. The work is performed wearing medical gloves.
Note: adding coloring paste will allow you to obtain the desired color of the composition. Color paste by weight should not exceed 3% of the total mass of the composition.
The composition is poured around the perimeter of the bath from top to bottom.

Going lower, help yourself with a rubber spatula, which is used to rub the acrylic into the surface of the bathtub. Having achieved complete coverage with liquid acrylic, use a spatula to make zigzag movements along the bottom of the bath. Then the composition is leveled with even movements from the wall towards the drain.

The bath is left for 5 minutes. Turn off the light and use a flashlight to check the surface of the bath for defects or irregularities (smudges) that need to be leveled with a spatula.

Important! Air bubbles may have formed when mixing the composition. To remove these bubbles, the surface of the bath is quickly blown with a hairdryer at low speeds.
After 10 minutes, use a flashlight to check the surface again. The bathtub can be used 24-48 hours after complete drying. Until this point, the bathroom must be closed. The drying time of the composition depends on the technical characteristics of the material and the temperature in the room.
Note: Some modern liquid acrylics take 12-16 hours to dry.

Result of the work

As a result of the work done, you will receive a completely restored bathtub with a beautiful appearance, which is guaranteed to last at least 10 years. After each use, the bathtub should be washed with special acrylic care products, dishwashing detergents or liquid soap.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic:

• long service life;
• beautiful appearance;
• smooth surface;
• excellent performance characteristics, primarily mechanical strength;
• possibility of repeated restoration in the future.

A bathtub after restoration will be practically in no way inferior to a new bathtub.
The disadvantages of this technology include:

• the long time required for the surface to dry completely;
• a specific smell when applying and drying liquid acrylic;
• the need to purchase bath care products.

Tricks at work

A high-quality bathtub surface will be obtained by applying the composition in an even, thick layer. Acrylic should flow down on its own. Determine by eye the middle of the side slopes and pour a second portion of the composition onto them. The remaining material is poured to the bottom. This way the entire surface of the bath will be covered with a thick layer of acrylic.

Changing a cast iron bathtub is a rather labor-intensive and economically expensive process. Therefore, it is better to use the services of specialists who will restore the product, extending its service life. The company is engaged in restoring bathtubs using effective methods.

We offer cast iron bathtub restoration services at the best price in Moscow

We have been renovating old cast iron bathtubs since 2003. Our company fulfills orders quickly and efficiently. A cast iron bowl can be updated in several ways. We offer services:

Acrylic liner;

Self-leveling bath;

Enameling.

Each of them has its own specific advantages. For repairing a cast iron bathtub, the most suitable coating is liquid acrylic, which is also called a “watering bathtub”. This technology consists of applying a special product to the surface of the bowl. It dries evenly and forms a glossy snow-white surface with a service life of more than 10 years.