Pink rhododendron planting and care. Flower "Rhododendron": types with photos, planting and care

I have long wanted to purchase such a blooming beauty like rhododendron. I searched on the Internet, read literature, went to markets where seedlings from nurseries are brought.

From all the preliminary knowledge, I learned several things - this is that a beginner should start by breeding a species of rhododendron (it’s better to “tame” fancy varieties later), become familiar with the composition of the soil and the choice of location.

I then planted a Ledebur rhododendron bush and a Daurian species. Completed everything necessary requirements and took the advice into account, my plants did not die, although they grow rather slowly. These two shrubs are similar to each other, now I’m thinking about buying a couple more seedlings.

In this article I want to introduce you to beautiful rhododendrons. You'll learn when they bloom, how to grow them properly, and love them as much as I do.

Shrubs and trees of rhododendrons (Rhododendron) belong to the Heather family; they are evergreen and deciduous. Translated, they mean rosewood; indeed, most species have different shades of pink. And the varieties bred by breeders can be of various shades: from white to purple.

Flowers are in the form of a bell and a funnel, a tube and a wheel, their diameter ranges from one to 10 centimeters. The leaves are elongated and hard; in the fall, some bushes have an extremely decorative appearance.

More than 1000 species of this plant differ both in the shape of the flowers and the coverage of the crown, as well as in height (from creeping shrubs to tall thirty-meter trees).

Under natural conditions it grows in temperate climates, preferring moist air and partial shade. That is why rhododendron is so often found in the undergrowth of pine trees and other coniferous trees, on mountain slopes, as well as along the banks of rivers and seas, in swamps and forest-tundra.

Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, Far East and Altai, the Himalayas and Japan are far from full list places where you can see natural rhododendron thickets. IN landscape design The use of shrubs is very diverse, including single plantings and group plantings; they are used to landscape sanatorium-resort and park areas and homesteads.

Types and varieties of rhododendron

Anyone who has ever seen this plant in bloom will never forget it - a most beautiful shrub. More than two dozen species of this crop and varieties obtained on their basis are widespread in Russia.

Attention! Deciduous rhododendrons are most suitable for our latitudes; they winter quite well, bloom for a long time, and do not require special care. Every gardener can grow them.

Daursky

A strongly branched plant with pink-violet flowers grows in Siberia and Primorye, East Asia in coniferous forests, on rocky slopes. Suitable for cultivation in the middle zone and the Urals, as well as in the north of Russia.

The evergreen shrub grows up to 4 meters in height (it grows very slowly); some of the leaves do not fall off in the winter. Inflorescences are funnel-shaped, up to 4 cm in girth. Flowering begins in early May and lasts three weeks, sometimes blooming again in the fall.

It is a winter-hardy species, loves light areas and takes root well, blooms very beautifully, has brightly colored leaves, Daurian rhododendron is spectacular all season.

Rhododendron tree

In nature it grows in North America in the highlands. Suitable for growing in the middle zone and other regions of Russia. This is a deciduous shrub with a wide crown (up to 6 meters), grows up to 3 meters.

The oblong green leaves turn purple in autumn and blooms with fragrant white or pink flowers (50 mm girth) in early July. This fragrance lasts for almost a month. It grows up to 7 centimeters per year.

Loves slightly acidic soils, loose and drained, prefers to be in a bright place. It tolerates winter well and is planted in parks, along roads, as single bushes.

ledebura rhododendron

Another name is Maralnik, it grows in Altai and the Sayan Mountains, forms thickets on mountain slopes and in undergrowth.

Protected in nature reserves. It blooms in May for 2 weeks (sometimes for a month), then beautiful pink-violet inflorescences appear again in the fall. They are quite large (up to 5 cm), and the bush up to 150 cm tall looks very colorful during flowering.

This species is winter-hardy; it does not completely shed its leaves in the winter, but in the spring after flowering they will still fall off, giving way to fresh growth. Growth per year is up to 7-8 cm, crown diameter is more than a meter.

Rhododendron Schlippenbach

Large deciduous shrub with woody shoots. As a garden crop it grows up to 150-160 cm, in nature up to 4 meters. Winter-hardy, but requires shelter. One of the most beautiful rhododendrons with pale lilac flowers with speckles, the coverage of the inflorescence reaches 10 cm.

The leaves are soft, growing at the end of the shoot (5 pieces in a tassel), in autumn green color gives way to ocher-red. It blooms in May-June and is quickly gaining popularity among gardeners.

Countless varieties have been developed by breeders around the world.

April Snow

White double flowers bloom in early spring, the foliage of the bush is strong, height is 160 cm.

Cunningham

The Scottish hybrid is one and a half meters tall and has white flowers with brownish splashes.

Blue Peter

Height 1.5 meters, crown coverage more than 2 meters. The flowers are large (6 cm), blue, lavender in color.

Liesma

Bred on the basis of Japanese rhododendron (up to 2 meters high). Large salmon-colored, orange-yellow flowers have a shiny surface.

Narcissiflora

The bright yellow flowers smell pleasant and have a star-shaped appearance. The shrub grows up to 180 cm.

How to plant garden rhodendron

Advice! To avoid disappointment from the death of an expensive seedling, try to get as much information as possible about the plant you are purchasing. You should not completely rely on eloquent sellers; it is better to prepare for the purchase in advance.

Take the trouble to make sure that the rhododendron is winter-hardy and adapted to our latitudes. Planting does not take much time, and care can be quickly learned.

You can plant the plant in the fall (almost all the buds are removed) or in the spring, when the ground thaws.

We choose a place protected from the wind, in light partial shade. It is important that there are no direct sun rays. Plant in an area that is visible to the eye to watch the flowering.

• We water the plant in the pot before planting so that the root system is prepared for replanting;
• The hole for the plant should be dug 2 times larger than the coverage of the roots;
• We completely remove the natural soil from the hole and lay drainage on the bottom: broken brick, or crushed stone and sand;
• We pour soil for heathers, or this mixture: peat, leaf soil, humus, fallen needles;
• We put the tree in the hole and sprinkle it on top (to the root collar) with the same mixture of soil;
• Water generously, press the soil around and mulch the surface with peat.

Worth knowing! It’s not for nothing that the main ingredient in soil for rhododendrons is peat. This plant loves slightly acidic or acidic soils supplemented with humus.

Shrub care

Since the plant is moisture-loving, you need to water it generously with acidified water (vinegar or lemon), and spray the crown in hot weather. It is necessary to mulch the tree trunk circle to retain moisture.

Important! The root system of rhododendrons is quite superficial and delicate, so loosening is undesirable.

Also, the bushes need to be regularly pruned, removing diseased and dry branches, to form a beautiful habit.

flowering shrub needs feeding. In the first year, fertilizer is applied in very measured doses; in subsequent years, you can water the rhododendron with mullein infusion, diluting it in accordance with the instructions.

Throughout the summer, watering is done once every 14 days with complex fertilizers containing phosphorus. In addition to root infusions, spraying the crown is encouraged.

How to propagate rhododendron

The plant can be grown through seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting, as well as by dividing the bush. Since the crop grows very slowly, the seed method is not the best option, and such a bush will bloom no earlier than in 3-4 years. With this method of propagation, all varietal characteristics of the plant are preserved.

Vegetative propagation is more common:

• We root the cuttings by pinning them to the ground in early spring, like other shrubs;
• We also cut cuttings in spring or autumn from young shoots and dig them in a greenhouse or in a pot with nutritious soil (mostly peat, less sand);
• You can divide the bush when it grows, carefully separating parts of the root, sprinkling the sections with crushed charcoal and fast transfer.

The easiest way, of course, is to buy a ready-made seedling that was grown for you by professionals.

What makes rhododendron sick?

Failures in care - overwatering and underwatering, changing the composition of the soil from acidic to alkaline, strong sun can contribute to diseases. These are rust, chlorosis and spotting, fungal diseases and pests.

If there are problems, we get rid of them with the help of insecticides, adjust the watering and fertilizing regime.

Place in landscape design

Favorite neighbors of rhododendrons are ferns, hostas, and other flowering shrubs. Plants are good in Japanese gardens among stones, in the shade of conifers.

Rosewood bushes are planted alone and in an alley, on the shore of a pond and near a gazebo, in rock gardens and mixborders. Rhododendron will look elegant and impressive everywhere.

(18 ratings, average: 4,08 out of 5)

garden plant rhododendron (in Latin Rhododendron) belongs to the genus of semi-deciduous trees. This genus also includes deciduous, evergreen trees and shrubs of the genus Heather plants. According to various sources of biologists, this genus includes from 85 thousand to 300 thousand plants, including houseplants azaleas, which gardeners call indoor rhododendron.

Plant characteristics

The word “Rhododendron” itself comes from two words: rhodon - “rose” and dendron - “tree”. The most common names are “Tree with Roses” or “Rose Tree”. Many florists notice that the plant is very similar to a rose.

Rhododendrons can be found in many countries, but they are mainly widespread in the countries of the Northern Hemisphere: Southeast Asia, North America, Japan, Southern China. These plants can be grown on coastal areas oceans, seas and rivers, in the partial shade of forests, on the slopes of the northern mountains.

Some rhododendrons can grow up to 35 cm, while other plants occur as creeping shrubs. Rhododendron flowers vary in shape, color and size. In nature you can find the tiniest sizes, and the diameter of large flowers can reach 25 cm. Currently garden rhododendron has approximately 3 thousand varieties and species.

Thanks to your decorative leaves The rhododendron flower is popular all over the world. The main advantage of the plant is gorgeous flowers red, lilac, violet, pink and white. They allow you to create exquisite and superbly beautiful bouquets.

Depending on the type and variety, the shape of the flower can be tubular, ring-shaped, or wheel-shaped. Some varieties have a pleasant aroma.

The fruits are a five-leaf, multi-seeded capsule with small seeds up to 3 mm in size. The plant has a shallow, compact root system consisting of large quantity fibrous roots. Thanks to this root system, replanting does not cause much difficulty or hassle and is quite easy. Rhododendron is an excellent spring honey plant. Growing a plant is a simple process, but certain requirements must be met.

Common varieties

• Rhododendron Kamchatka
• Rhododendron Daurian

Rhododendron Kamchatka grows in the Khabarovsk region, it can also be found on the shores of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk, in Japan, Alaska and Chukotka. The plant is a branched deciduous shrub with rough branches. Early shoots are covered with glandular hairs. Grows in height, growth is slow. The variety prefers cold, wet and open slopes with slightly acidic soils. Since the variety is winter-hardy, planting is carried out in early spring and early autumn. Requires regular watering and feeding.

The shape of the leaf crowns is large, sessile. The leaves are dark green. The flowers are red or pink, odorless, with a diameter of 2 to 5 cm. The seeds are in a yellow seed capsule, propagated by cuttings.

Rhododendron kauri grows in Eastern Siberia, Northern China, Korea and Mongolia. Inhabits rocky slopes and coniferous forests. Represents evergreen shrub. The leaves are small, light green in color. The flowers are purple-pink up to 5 cm in diameter. Flowering lasts 3-4 weeks. The variety is winter-hardy and propagated by cuttings.

Found in the mountains of Tibet and the Far East. Prefers rocky slopes and mountain forests. The shrub is low, about half a meter in length. The shoots are glandular. The leaves are dark green. Pink flowers. This plant listed by biologists in the Red Book of the Buryat Okrug.

Gallery: rhododendrons (25 photos)

Growing conditions

In the Russian climate, only winter-hardy varieties are grown in gardens. Planting in the ground is carried out in the spring.(from early April to late May) and autumn (from early September to late November). If necessary, planting can be done at any time, but not during the flowering period. The plant can be replanted after 1-2 weeks of flowering. Planting is best done on the north side of the building, in the shade.

The plant is grown in loose, well-drained soil with acid and humus. If in your garden plot the groundwater flows at a depth of more than 2 m, then you should raise the bed and only then plant.

Grows well next to plants such as pine, larch, oak, since in these plants the root system grows far in depth. And other trees - maple, poplar, elm, willow, alder, chestnut and linden - will deprive the roots of the plant good nutrition, because they have a superficial root system, the same as that of rhododendron. If it is impossible to avoid such a neighborhood of trees, then it is necessary to dig slate, polyethylene or roofing felt into the ground. This will protect the plant's root system. Ideal neighbors for rhododendron are pears, apple trees and plums.

Please note that if you are going to plant rhododendron in the Urals, then choose winter-hardy varieties that can withstand air temperature drops of up to 30 degrees without outside covering of the plant. For example, “Nova Zembla”, “Katevbinsky Grandiflorum”, “Roseum Elegance”.

Planting in open ground

A well-mixed mixture of 3 buckets of clay and 8 buckets of peat is poured into a planting hole with a diameter of about 55 cm and a depth of about 35 cm. The mixture is compacted to the bottom of the hole, then a hole is dug. The hole must correspond to the size of the plant's root system. Before planting, plant seedlings are immersed in water and kept there until air bubbles are released. Then the landing takes place.

After planting, the bush is watered abundantly, and the ground is sprinkled with peat or pine needles. If there are buds on the plant, then it is necessary to remove them so that all forces are directed to the development of the horse system, and not to flowering. If the area is spacious, then it is necessary to tie the plant to a stake to protect it from the wind. Once the root system has strengthened, the peg can be removed.

Flower care

Caring for rhododendron can be done using the usual procedures: weeding, fertilizing, watering, spraying, pest control and bush formation. It is forbidden to dig and loosen very close to the surface of the root system. Weeding must be done manually, without special tools.

During the period of flowering and bud formation, rhododendron needs humid air. During this period, you must follow the watering rules: the water must be rain or soft. The water is also softened by adding several handfuls of peat to it the day before watering the plant. The frequency of watering is determined by the condition of the leaves; they should be matte and not have a yellow tint.

The soil should be wet to a depth of 35 cm, however, there is no need to flood the root system, since excess moisture will cause the leaves to curl. Do not increase the amount of water with each watering. In extreme heat, the plant can be additionally sprayed with water.

Rhododendron propagation

Generative method

Reproduction occurs by seeds. They are sown in a small bowl with moistened peat or heather soil with sand in a ratio of 1:3. Next, the seeds are covered with sand, covered with a piece of glass and placed in a bright room for germination.

Subsequently, the room is ventilated and formations are removed from the glass. After about a month, the first shoots of the plant appear. When the first leaves appear, the plant must be planted more freely, deepening the seeds into the ground so that the root system is formed. The first year the plants are kept in a greenhouse, and next year You can already plant them in the ground, in beds with soil, sand and peat. Seedlings grow slowly, and flowers appear only in 5-7 years.

Vegetative way

The plant is propagated by dividing the bush, cuttings, layering.

Propagation by cuttings is also a complex procedure. It is necessary to cut cuttings 4-7 cm long from the shoots. Next, the lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, and their sections are kept for 11-13 hours in heteroaxin, a root system growth stimulator. Then the treated cuttings are placed in the ground with sand and peat and covered with film. Cuttings take root hard and long, within 6 months. They are grown in wooden boxes with soil containing pine needles and peat. In winter, the boxes with the plant should be stored in a cool room, and in the spring they should be taken out into the garden, dug directly into the ground and grown for about two years. Then they are transplanted to a permanent place.

Bush pruning

Many gardeners recommend not focusing their attention on pruning rhododendron, because As the plant grows, it acquires the correct shape. Only tall bushes and frozen shoots need to be trimmed.

In an adult bush, shoots are pruned in early spring. Garden varnish is applied to sections of thick branches. A month later, when buds appear on the shoots, the plant begins a period of renewal. Very frozen and old bushes must be pruned at a height of 30 cm from the ground surface. First, in the first half of the year, one part of the bush is cut, and in the second half of the year, the other.

Feeding rules

First of all, you need to fertilize those plants that you planted recently. The first feeding is done at the beginning of spring, and the second - at the end of the first half of summer, after flowering has ended, and when new shoots are growing. Ideal for rhododendrons feeding from horn meal and cow manure. Cow dung must be filled with water in a ratio of 1:15 and allowed to brew for 2-3 days. After this you can fertilize.

Before fertilizing, the plant must be watered. Do not forget that rhododendron grows in acidic soils, so it is advisable to use fertilizers containing minerals, superphosphate, ammonium and potassium phosphate. These fertilizers must be dissolved in weak proportions, for example 1.1:1000, and if the solution contains potassium substances, then it should be even weaker. It is optimal to fertilize in early spring and mid-summer.

Diseases and pests

Rhododendron has its own pests - slugs, snails, rhododendron flies, mites, weevils, scale insects, mealyworms and bedbugs. Slugs and snails can be collected by hand and then treated with a solution of Thiram or a fungicide. Bedbugs, spider mites, and weevils are destroyed by diazinon. If a plant is affected by a weevil, then its leaves, stems, as well as the top layer of soil are treated with an insecticide. Other insects are exterminated by karbofos. Remember that when using this product you must follow the instructions.

Rhododendron is most often affected fungal diseases. The first signs of plant disease may be spots or rust on the leaves. Fungal diseases arise as a result of poor care of the root system. In this case, the plant must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate and diseased leaves must be removed. In addition, in early spring and late autumn, for prevention, you need to spray the plant with Bordeaux mixture.

Rhododendrons in the Moscow region

Growing rhododendron in the Moscow region is not very different from the usual process of planting and caring for it in other areas. Here the basic requirements must be met:

• Humus and acidic soil without lime, ash and other substances.
• Rhodendron must be protected with a net from the penetration of sunlight when planted in early spring.
• Balanced and deep watering.

In early autumn, during the growth period of rhododendron, when rainy weather sets in, it is necessary to spray the bush with potassium monophosphate or a sulfate solution from a spray bottle. This procedure will prevent woodiness of the shoots and stimulate the formation of buds for the next year. After spraying, stop watering. In winter, you can cover the plant in a greenhouse or place it in a warm and dry room.

Rose and rhododendron are essentially namesakes. Their names come from the same root - rose. Only the rose itself comes from the Latin (Rosa), and rhododendron - from the Greek (Rhodon) is also a rose. The full name rhododendron is translated as “pink tree,” which reflects not so much the size of the shrub as its unusually lush flowering.

Although the rose is considered the queen of the front garden, fans of rhododendrons have compelling reasons to reconsider this norm in favor of their favorite. Personally, I have long equated these two flowers in their rights, and reconciled them in their claims to the flower throne. Let the rose remain the queen, and I give the rhododendron the title of king.

After all, rose and rhododendron could sign an agreement to share spheres of influence, and rule together for mutual benefit. After all, their flowering periods practically do not overlap. Rhododendron is a flower primarily of spring, the rose is a child of full summer and autumn. In general, if you plant rhododendrons and roses together, their impact on the viewer will only increase.

Five arguments in favor of rhododendron.

One could say about rhododendron in official language that this plant is promising, and any initial investment in it will be justified. The shrub is generally resistant to adversity and is easy to care for, but it is important not to make a mistake in choosing a variety. If we compare it with the same rose, then there are many arguments to force a convinced rose grower to go over to the side of the enemy.

• Rhododendrons (or, in any case, those species and varieties that will be discussed below) do not require shelter for the winter, unless you are tempted by some heat-loving variety.
• Rhododendrons grow in nice, dense bushes, require little to no pruning, and are disease and pest resistant. Caring for a growing rhododendron is completely easy.
• Rhododendrons are long-lasting. Thirty years is the minimum period you can expect. And some varieties and species are able to survive even such a familiar tree species like a birch.
• Rhododendrons never lose their decorative appearance and are ready to work from the first days of spring.
• The shape of the crown, as well as the external characteristics of the leaves of rhododendrons are much more diverse than those of roses. Therefore in garden design rhododendrons have more possibilities. They are equally organic in both landscape and regular gardens.

About the rose tree in your own words.

From a gardener's point of view, rhododendrons are divided into deciduous, semi-evergreen and evergreen. With deciduous ones, everything is clear, but how can evergreen rhododendrons survive here, you ask, since such shrubs are more typical of the tropics and subtropics?

The answer lies in the field of plant physiology. Trees and shrubs temperate zone They mainly respond to low temperatures by dropping leaves. This helps them reduce moisture evaporation (transpiration), and thus survive the winter.

Evergreen rhododendrons, like their other brothers in the heather family (lingonberries, wild rosemary, etc.) act differently. They react to the cold not by dropping leaves, but in a rather original way - when the temperature approaches zero, their leaves curl into tubes. This allows the plant to significantly reduce transpiration.

As for semi-evergreen rhododendrons, they react to the cold in two ways - they shed some of their leaves, and some, usually at the top, roll up into tubes. By the way, curled leaves sometimes become so small that the bush may seem bare. But as soon as the thaw arrives, they unfold, revealing a pleasant surprise in the middle of winter.

In the city, rhododendrons grow in our front garden, right under the windows. Often, to understand what the weather is like outside, I glance at the evergreen Katevbinsky rhododendron. If the leaves are rolled into tubes, you need to dress warmly. If they are fully deployed, then the temperature is plus four or higher, and you can push yourself in a leather jacket.

Just so you know.

Genus rhododendron ( Rhododendron) belongs to the heather family and includes about 1,300 species of shrubs and small trees. Rhododendrons are distributed throughout the world, but greatest number their species grows in the subtropics and tropics of Asia. China and Japan are especially rich in rhododendrons. For example, in all of North America there are about thirty species, and in relatively small Japan - sixty. There is nothing to say about China - there are more than two hundred of them there.

About 20 species of rhododendrons are found in Russia. But in the flat part of the country there are none at all. They are concentrated mainly in the mountain belt of the south: from the Caucasus in the west to Sikhote-Alin in the east.

Interestingly, according to modern botanical views, the genus Ledum is combined with the genus Rhododendron. And now the marsh rosemary has received a new name - marsh rhododendron. So central Russia, thus, also acquired its own wild rhododendron.

Typical features of rhododendrons are simple ellipsoidal, lanceolate leaves, concentrated in bunches at the ends of the shoots. The flowers of rhododendrons are collected in multi-flowered inflorescences of various colors, collected in dense multi-flowered inflorescences. Their palette includes pink, purple, red, yellow and white and, of course, their various shades.

It is believed that the number of varietal rhododendrons has long exceeded 20,000, and is arriving every year with ever-increasing intensity. At the same time, the vast majority of varieties are based on heat-loving species and are not frost-resistant enough.

At the same time, unlike roses, species rhododendrons are in no way inferior in attractiveness to varieties. And for middle zone In Russia they are more important than varieties.

You won't be lost with them.

It has been established that, to one degree or another, central Russia is suitable for approximately 40 species of rhododendrons. As for varieties, this question remains open, as it requires careful and comprehensive study. Varietal study, I note, must be specific, that is, cultivars must be tested not only in different regions, but on different soils, at different humidity and light levels. So far, only species rhododendrons have been more or less studied, which, by the way, are generally not inferior to varietal plants in their decorative properties.

Here are just some of your possible settlers. Seventeen of the most winter-hardy and unpretentious species of rhododendrons recommended for amateur gardening in the Non-Black Earth Region.

( R. Vaseyi) - a deciduous shrub, usually no more than a meter tall in cultivation. Originally from North Carolina USA. Completely winter-hardy, although flower buds are sensitive to spring return frosts. Because of this, it works better where the soil thaws in the spring and warms up later. The flowers are funnel-shaped, light pink with brownish-red specks. Blooms before the leaves bloom. The soil should be moist but permeable.

Dahurian rhododendron (R. dahuricum) - deciduous, but sometimes part of the leaves at the top remains to overwinter on the plant. The usual height of the bush is about 70-90cm. Leaves are ovate-elliptical, 5x2cm. The flowers are lilac-pink, broadly funnel-shaped. It blooms in early spring in a leafless state for about half a month.

It grows well in ordinary garden soil if you add high-moor peat to it. In nature, this species is widespread in the south of Eastern Siberia and the Far East. This is what is most often called “Ledum”.

Rhododendron yellow (R. luteum) - deciduous, spreading shrub 70-90 cm high. Grows in the Caucasus and the Carpathians. One of the most reliable and unpretentious rhododendrons. Grows well in light, on ordinary slightly acidic and neutral soils with the addition of peat or heather soil. The flowers are golden yellow, with a pleasant aroma. It blooms in spring at the same time as the leaves bloom.

Rhododendron golden ( R. aureum) - evergreen, 0.3-0.5 m high, up to 60-100 cm wide. Distributed throughout southern Siberia from Altai to Kamchatka. Grows in the mountains, in the upper part of the forest belt and higher. The leaves are elliptical, leathery, 3-7 cm long. Blooms in May-June. The flowers are light yellow or golden. Completely winter-hardy. Photophilous, prefers sour, moist peaty soils. Is medicinal plant. The leaves are used for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, rheumatism, insomnia, sore throat, female diseases, etc.

Caucasian rhododendron ( R. caucasicum) - evergreen, 60-90cm high, leaves leathery, glossy, very attractive. The flowers are funnel-shaped, creamy white with green specks in the throat. In nature it grows at altitudes from 1600 to 3000 m above sea level, where the climate is very harsh, therefore it is completely winter-hardy in central Russia.

It grows slowly. Seedlings bloom at the age of 6-8 years. Photophilous. Grows well in moist and acidic soils.

Rhododendron Kamchatka (R. camtchaticum) - deciduous shrub up to 30 cm high. The leaves are obovate, sometimes almost round, 2-5 cm long. Flowers are 2.5-5 cm in diameter, wide-open, reddish-lilac or pinkish, collected in inflorescences of 1-3 pieces. It blooms in June-July for more than 20 days.

It is found naturally in the Far East along the sea coasts from Japan in the south to Chukotka and Alaska in the north. Winter-hardy, moisture-loving, light-loving. Prefers moist but drained soils with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.

Canadian rhododendron (R. canadense) - deciduous, 60-80cm high. The flowers are 3-4 cm in diameter, purple-violet, sometimes white, with narrow, intricately curled petals. It blooms in April-May in a leafless state for 20-25 days.

Its homeland is the Northeast of North America, where it grows in sphagnum bogs and damp forests. Completely winter-hardy, light-loving. Prefers moist, acidic soils with added peat. It is one of the ten most unpretentious species recommended for central Russia.

Rhododendron katevbinsky (R. catawbiense) - an evergreen shrub about 1 (sometimes up to 2) m high. Homeland - North America. The leaves are elliptical, 6-12cm long, leathery, shiny. The flowers are reddish-lilac or purple, about 5 cm in diameter, collected in dense multi-flowered inflorescences of 15-20 pieces. It blooms in May-June for about a month.

Due to its unpretentiousness, it is the most popular of the evergreen rhododendrons. It is winter-hardy, although flower buds are often damaged. Tolerates full sun, but grows best in diffuse or lateral partial shade. Prefers acidic, moist peaty soils. It has many varieties, including hybrids, from crossing with other evergreen species of rhododendrons.

Rhododendron short-fruited (R. brachycarpum) - an evergreen shrub 150-200cm high with a dense spherical crown. The leaves are large, 8-20 cm long, oblong-elliptic, leathery. The flowers are creamy-white with a pinkish tan, wide funnel-shaped, 4-5 cm in diameter, collected in dense racemose inflorescences of 12-20 pieces. Blooms in June-July for 15-20 days.

Homeland - Korea, Japan, found on the Kuril Islands. One of the ten most winter-hardy evergreen rhododendrons. Light-loving, but grows well on the north side of buildings and in mesh partial shade. Thanks to its dense decorative crown, it is attractive early spring and until the very frosts. It is even suitable for public landscaping. It is especially desirable for landscaping yards, where it can become the first truly evergreen shrub. With its presence, it enlivens flower and shrub compositions and introduces a subtropical flavor unusual to the Russian eye.

Prefers light, well-drained, humus-rich, acidic sandy loam soils.

Rhododendron Kochi (R. kotschii) - evergreen, spreading shrub 20-40 cm high. The leaves are elliptical, small, shiny, 1-2 cm long, up to 1 cm wide. The flowers are dark pink, less often white, funnel-shaped, up to 2 cm in diameter, in inflorescences of 2-7 pieces. It blooms in May for more than two weeks.

Its homeland is the Balkan Peninsula, the Carpathians, where it grows at altitudes from 1500 to 2500 m above sea level. Winter-hardy, light-loving, prefers moist but well-drained slightly acidic peaty soil.

Rhododendron is the largest (R. maximum) - a large evergreen shrub, in nature reaches a height of 10 meters, but in cultivation it is usually no higher than 2 m. The leaves are oblong-elliptical, or obovate, leathery, 10-30 cm long. Flowers up to 4 cm in diameter, pink or white, funnel-shaped with orange specks in the throat, are collected in dense inflorescences of 15-25 pieces. Blooms in June-July for up to 20 days.

Homeland - North America. Completely winter-hardy in central Russia. Recommended not only for private gardens, but also for public landscaping. Photophilous, prefers humus-rich, loose, slightly acidic soil.

Rhododendron Ledeboura ( R. ledebourii) - semi-evergreen, densely branched shrub 60-90 cm high. Homeland - south Western Siberia— Sayans, Altai, Mongolia. The leaves are elliptical, leathery, 1-3 cm long. Some of the leaves overwinter on the bush and fall off with the growth of young leaves in May. The flowers are pinkish-violet with a diameter of 3-4 cm. It blooms very profusely in May for 15-20 days.

Completely winter-hardy in the middle zone. Sun-loving. Grows well on slightly acidic and acidic sandy loam soils with an admixture of peat.

Rhododendron acuminate ( R. mucronulatum) - deciduous or semi-deciduous shrub 90-160 cm high. The leaves are lanceolate, 4-8 cm long, up to 2 cm wide, leathery, covered below with brown glandular hairs, often narrowed at the apex into a short spine. The flowers are lilac-pink, less often white, wide-funnel-shaped, about 3 cm in diameter, pleasantly scented. It blooms profusely in April-May until the young leaves unfold, about two weeks.

Homeland - Russian Primorye, Japan, Korea, Northeast China.

Winter-hardy in central Russia, but flower buds may be damaged. Photophilous. Likes slightly acidic soils, rich in humus, moist but well-drained.

Rhododendron Sikhotinsky ( R. sichotense) - semi-evergreen branched shrub 50-90 cm tall. The homeland is the Sikhote-Alin ridge with the adjacent sea coast. The leaves are elliptical, up to 3.5 cm long and 2 cm wide, brownish-green above, paler below with glandular hairs. The flowers are violet-pink, funnel-shaped, up to 4.5 cm in diameter. Blooms in May for 15 days. Winter-hardy, but flower buds may be damaged. Photophilous. Prefers slightly acidic, moist soils with a high organic content.

Rhododendron Smirnova (R. smirnowii) - evergreen wide-spreading shrub up to 100-120 cm high. The leaves are ellipsoid, leathery, 7-15 cm long, leathery above, shiny, white-tomentose below.

The flowers are a pleasant purple-pink hue, bell-shaped, up to 6 cm in diameter, collected in dense inflorescences of 10-12 pieces. It blooms profusely from the end of May, for about three weeks.

Quite winter hardy. Photophilous. Prefers moist but drained acidic peaty soils.

Rhododendron Schlippenbach (R. schlippenbachii) - deciduous shrub 120-150cm high. The leaves are obovate, quite wide for rhododendrons, up to 10 cm long, with a width of up to 7 cm. The flowers are bell-shaped, wide open, light pink with purple specks, 5-8 cm in diameter, in inflorescences of 3-6 pieces. It blooms for about a month, very profusely, simultaneously with the development of young leaves.

Homeland: Russian Far East, Northeast China, Korea, Japan. It is winter-hardy, but flower buds sometimes freeze slightly. Light-loving, but grows well in light partial shade. Prefers moist, slightly acidic soils containing peat.

Japanese rhododendron (R. japoniicum) - deciduous, 70-90cm high. Originally from the Japanese Islands, where it grows on the sunny slopes of mountains, at altitudes up to 2000 above sea level. The leaves are lanceolate, up to 9-10cm long and 3-4cm wide. The flowers are funnel-shaped and bell-shaped, 6-8 cm in diameter, most often orange-red, sometimes yellow, salmon-colored, brick-red, with a pleasant strong aroma. It blooms in May, simultaneously with the blooming of young leaves, for 25 days.

Perhaps this is the very rhododendron that a beginner should invite into his front garden first. After all, in our middle zone no one has ever been disappointed in him. It blooms unusually brightly and abundantly, with unusually large red-orange flowers. Flowering can be so bright that it arouses curiosity even among people who are far from gardening.

At the same time, it is winter-hardy, unpretentious, and grows well in ordinary moist garden soils, to which high-moor peat is added.

The most important.

Although rose has thousands of varieties, in terms of preferences, it is one and the same species, with a completely understandable and fairly standard character. Rhododendrons have much more varied requirements for growing conditions. It is impossible to choose for them universal conditions, in which any species and variety would grow equally well. But there is still something that most rhododendrons have in common, including almost all of them suitable for cultivation in central Russia.

Most rhododendrons do not like or even tolerate dryness. Moreover, this applies equally to the soil and atmosphere. The ideal weather for them is a cloudy but warm day with intermittent rains, when the soil is saturated with moisture, the leaves of the plants are covered with a damp film, and drops of water hang on the shoots for a long time without evaporating.

In hot, dry years, which are not uncommon in our country, rhododendrons need frequent watering. If you leave everything to chance, then for some rhododendrons, extreme drought can end in failure.

Rhododendrons prefer soil that is also not exactly the same as that in which it is customary to grow potatoes and grains. In our usual understanding, this is not soil at all, but a moisture-absorbing, porous substrate made of sand, clay, pine needles, peat, rotten stumps and bark.

To fully satisfy the nutritional needs of rhododendrons, you should always have acidic high-moor peat, sand, heather soil, and pine litter on hand. For anyone who, in addition to rhododendrons, wants to tame crops such as blueberries, heather, wild rosemary, cranberries, lingonberries... it is also useful to learn how to prepare heather compost, which is advisable to systematically apply to these plants.

In a notebook.

heather land- the top layer of forest litter 10-20 cm thick, including part of the bedrock, from an old pine or spruce forest, in the lower layer of which species such as lingonberries, heather, wild rosemary, blueberries, cranberries, blueberries, etc. grow. It is useful to apply heather soil under all heather rhododendrons little by little, but constantly, thereby simulating the process of fertilizing heathers in nature with coniferous litter. Heather soil is acidic, rich in organic matter and populated by mycorrhiza of beneficial fungi, usually protozoa.

Coniferous litter- the upper, organic component of heather soil, including both completely decomposed needles and recently fallen needles. Coniferous litter loosens and acidifies the soil.

Heather compost- prepared from heather soil, coniferous litter, pine, spruce or larch bark, rotted stumps, sphagnum, high peat, sand, small coniferous twigs, leaves of forest trees, etc. These components are laid in layers somewhere in a shady, damp lowland, in a wide pile 50-70 cm high. The top of the pile is trough-shaped to retain precipitation. Compost is stored for several years until the branches and bark are completely decomposed, that is, until it turns into a homogeneous granular mass.

Choosing a location. Illumination is selected individually for each specific species and variety. In general, deciduous rhododendrons are more sun-loving, while evergreen rhododendrons prefer diffuse or intermittent partial shade. To prevent the soil from drying out too much, slopes should not be allocated for rhododendrons. The subsoil, for the same reasons, is better loamy than sandy. It should also be remembered that most rhododendrons do not like drying winds, so the planting site must be protected.

Soil preparation. There is no soil that all rhododendrons would agree to. But still, most of them love the presence of peat in the soil. You can’t go wrong if you pile a half-meter layer of high-moor peat on the existing soil and shovel it all well to a depth of 50-60cm. This will already ensure the well-being of rhododendrons by 80%.

To please one hundred percent, it is necessary to populate the soil with mycorrhiza of microscopic fungi, with which heathers are in a mutually beneficial symbiosis. Fungal organisms help heathers extract and process the nutrients they need from acidic substrates unsuitable for other plants. To introduce the necessary mycorrhiza, you need to add a “starter” to the soil - coniferous or heather soil - the upper (10-15 cm layer) part of the forest litter taken from an old pine forest, in the lower tier of which there are species such as heather, wild rosemary, and lingonberries.

The soil substrate can be created separately by mixing high-moor peat, sod land, sand and heather soil in a ratio of 4:1:1:2 or 4:1:1:1.

Planting and transplanting. Rhododendrons usually tolerate transplantation well, provided that the soil is prepared correctly and constant moisture is ensured. During the rainy season, you can risk replanting a bush with a lump of earth, even in the middle of summer. Of course, a seedling in a container does not count at all. With bare roots and without a coma, rhododendrons tolerate replanting better in the fall, when the favorable period for this is much longer than the spring.

Care. All heathers (this group, in addition to rhododendron, can include such garden crops as blueberries, cranberries, lingonberries, heather, wild rosemary, etc.) have their own specific preferences, based on which they should be grown separately from other plants. In addition to the fungal mycorrhiza they need, they have superficial roots, so they do not tolerate digging. It is advisable to fertilize rhododendrons using the mulching method, regularly adding high-moor peat, heather soil, pine or spruce needles, chopped bark and sawdust to its base. coniferous species. To do this, it makes sense to constantly import from the forest coniferous land, pine litter, prepare heather compost according to the above recipe. It is advisable to sprinkle these components alternately 3-4 times per season in small doses under the rhododendrons. Then the substrate feeding the plants will constantly increase, and the rhododendrons will have everything they need to thrive. In essence, the same thing, only much slower, happens in nature as a result of natural processes.

It's only begining.

Anyone who has seen a blooming rhododendron will no longer be able to get rid of the desire to have this shrub in their front garden. In my opinion, not a single ornamental plant is capable of giving so many positive emotions. About 15 different rhododendrons bloom regularly in our garden. In total, we tested a little more than twenty varieties and types of shrubs. This seems like a lot, but we plan to expand our collection at least three times in the future.

Personally, I especially like evergreen rhododendrons with large, thick-skinned elliptical leaves, such as those of the Katevbinsky, Caucasian, short-fruited, largest, etc. rhododendrons. Overwintering leaves of this size (and they often reach a length of 15-20 cm) are not typical for central Russia, so their very appearance gives the front garden a subtropical flavor.

There is no less charm in our Siberian rhododendrons - wild rosemaries that bloom profusely in early spring with flowers of pink and light purple shades. Rhododendrons with small evergreen leaves like lingonberries are also good; they can be cut, giving the crown a cushion shape.

In general, rhododendrons are a whole world.

There is an opinion that caring for rhododendron is quite difficult, and the shrub itself is capricious, so not everyone will grow it in a moderately cold climate. And only after getting to know this amazing and beautiful plant, you understand that it’s not a matter of complexity, but the specifics of culture. Rhododendron isn't complicated - it's just not like everyone else.

A rhododendron bush in bloom - such a beauty is worth the effort!

General requirements for the growing environment

It so happened that rhododendron is considered one of the elite of the flower and decorative kingdom. Having purchased such a valuable specimen, many strive to give it the best place in the garden - in the sun, with fertile soil generously seasoned with humus. Stereotypes come into play that have nothing to do with the real needs of the crop, and this is the main mistake of inexperienced gardeners.

Under natural conditions, most species of rhododendrons grow in the undergrowth, that is, in a special microclimate under the tree canopy, where they are reliably protected from the scorching sun, piercing winds, and drafts. When planting rhododendrons in the garden, they need to create growing conditions, focusing on the principles of life in the natural environment.

1. Light is needed intense, but diffused. It is this lighting in the lower tiers of the forest, and it is this intensity of solar radiation that determines the structure of the leaves and the type of photosynthesis. Evergreen species are more sensitive to excess sun - in open space they get leaf burns.
2. Acidic and well-drained soil. Under natural conditions, most of the root system (and in rhododendrons it is superficial) is located in the deciduous forest litter, consisting of rotted and fresh litter, humus, and podzolic soil. This medium is not very nutritious, has an acidic pH, but is saturated with air, which is important given the structure of the plant’s roots.
3. Symbiosis with fungi is the basis of plant nutrition. The roots of rhododendron, like other members of the heather family, do not have root hairs. Supplier Role nutrients The mycelium of mycorrhiza, the simplest fungi that live directly in the cells of the plant, carries out the process from the soil into the tissue. To prevent the mycelium from suffocating, you need constant influx air, so dense clay soils are absolutely unsuitable for heather crops.
4. Increased soil and air humidity. Rhododendrons have a special attitude towards moisture - they suffer from both a lack of water and an excess, especially in cases of stagnation or flooding. The problem is solved by the correctly selected structure of the planting substrate, which must not only be filled with moisture and retain it, but also have sufficient aeration.
5. Protection from winds and drafts. Many, including winter-hardy species that can tolerate temperatures of -30⁰ C and below, suffer from winter piercing winds and drafts. Used for protection agricultural techniques– protected place, shelter for the winter, planting in groups.

Thus, if rhododendrons are grown taking into account biological features, they will not create any problems and will delight their owners with magnificent flowering for decades.

Evergreen rhododendron in bloom

Correct selection and planting is the key to plant longevity

To prevent purchased rhododendrons from becoming a one-season crop, you should thoroughly prepare for receiving the plant. Agrotechnical measures preceding planting are conventionally divided into several stages - choosing a suitable variety, storing components for the substrate, selecting a site.

Plant selection

Agricultural technology for planting and caring for rhododendron largely depends on the species. For those new to gardening, or if you are unsure of the temperature in your area, it is best to start with deciduous varieties. Firstly, they are more adapted to cold climates and do not require crown cover for the winter; secondly, they are not so demanding on moisture and can grow in open sun.

Among the deciduous shrubs, R. canadensis, Japanese, Daurian, Schlippenbach, yellow, and pink are suitable for the middle zone. Moreover, it is better to start with species rather than varieties - they are more viable and resistant to unfavorable conditions.

If you still choose evergreen rhododendrons, start with the Katevbinsky, Caucasian, Yakushimansky species or varieties and hybrids created on their genotype.

Important! When choosing planting material, give preference to plants from local nurseries. Although they are not as attractive as those grown in the mild climate of Europe, they are hardened and adapted to the conditions of the region. The optimal age of the seedling is 3–4 years.

A properly selected variety overwinters well even without shelter.

Selecting a location

The most problematic areas of the garden, unsuitable for light-loving crops, are often suitable for growing rhododendrons - in the shade of trees, on the north, northwest side of buildings. The main thing is that it is secluded, protected from the prevailing winds and midday sun rays in the region.

When placing shrubs under trees, you need to choose varieties of the latter with a deep root system in order to delimit the feeding zones of the plants. Rhododendrons prefer to be grown next to pine trees, junipers, oaks, maples, and apple trees.

Substrate preparation

In our gardens, soil suitable for growing rhododendrons is quite rare, so the planting substrate should be prepared in advance. Necessary components for the soil mixture:

• high-moor (red peat) with an acidic pH;
• coniferous litter, consisting of half-decomposed needles, twigs, cones, mixed with humus and other plant debris;
• river sand or sandy soil (top fertile layer);
• rotted sawdust of coniferous trees.

The substrate is prepared from peat and pine litter in equal proportions with the addition of one part of garden soil or river sand. Needles can be replaced with sawdust, ordinary lowland peat can be acidified by adding sphagnum moss, acidic fertilizers, for example, potassium sulfate or ammonium. The main thing is that the substrate is light, breathable and acidic. If there is nowhere to get suitable ingredients for the substrate, you can purchase targeted soil for azaleas.

Important! One of the reasons why rhododendron does not bloom may be alkaline soil. Such an environment has a depressing effect on the plant - in addition to the fact that it does not bloom, it grows weakly, is attacked by pests, and chlorosis of the leaves develops.

Landing technology

Seedlings grown in containers are planted both in spring and autumn. In the spring, it is advisable to do this before the active growing season begins, approximately in April. The autumn planting month is September, so that the plant has time to take root and adapt before the cold weather.

A mandatory agrotechnical requirement when planting shrubs is to prepare a deep (at least 50 cm) and wide (60–70 cm) planting hole, which is filled with prepared substrate. It is carefully compacted and spilled with water.

Before planting, the seedling is immersed in water so that the earthen lump becomes limp, the roots are straightened and placed in the prepared hole. Another requirement is that under no circumstances should the root collar be buried; it should be at the same level as before transplantation.

After planting, the root zone must be mulched. Pine needles, rotted sawdust, leaves, and straw are suitable for these purposes. Their layer should be at least 5–7 cm thick. Mulch not only retains moisture, but also serves as a light organic fertilizer for rhododendrons.

The shrub loves group plantings - natural thickets reliably protect the shoots from winds and freezing. The distance between seedlings depends on the height of the adult shrub, but not less than 1 meter.

The planting hole is much larger than the size of the root ball - this is a reserve for growth and nutrition for many years to come

Seasons: seasonal concerns

For rhododendron, the specifics of care are determined by seasonal changes: in the spring - emergence from winter sleep and preparation for flowering, in the summer - care about the growth and formation of flowering buds for the next year, in the fall - preparation for winter.

Spring chores

When positive temperatures are established and there are no strong night frosts, the covering material is removed. This should be done in cloudy weather, in several stages, gradually opening the bush, first from the north, and a little later from the south. Leaves that have overwintered without access to light are sensitive to the bright spring sun and can get burned.

In the spring, rhododendron leaves remain curled for some time, not receiving an impulse from the roots, so the first thing to do is to start the work of the root system. To do this, mulch is raked away so that the soil thaws faster. If after a week the leaves are still curled, it means they have lost a lot of moisture and the root zone should be watered with warm water.

After the buds swell, the bush is inspected and frozen shoots and dried branches are removed. If the weather is dry, the plant must be watered at least 2-3 times a week before flowering. Watering rate is 10–15 liters per adult bush.

Important! Water for watering rhododendrons should have a pH level in the range of 4–5 units, otherwise it will alkalize the soil, which is undesirable. To acidify water, dissolve 3–4 g of citric, oxalic, acetic (70%) acid or 15–20 ml of battery electrolyte in 10 liters of liquid.

Spring is the only time of year when rhododendrons can be fed organic fertilizers. You can only use well-rotted manure; if possible, high-moor peat is added to it. A bucket of this mixture is poured into the tree trunk instead of mulch and watered abundantly.

How to feed rhododendrons in the spring if there is no organic matter? At the end of flowering, fertilizing with Kemira targeted complex fertilizers for azaleas (rhododendrons) is effective. It is completely balanced and, in addition to containing the necessary nutrients, acidifies the soil.

The evergreen rhododendron is about to open its bright buds

Summer care

After flowering, caring for rhododendron is aimed at replenishing strength for the growth of young shoots and the formation of flower buds. The plant needs the following agrotechnical measures.

• Regular, abundant watering and spraying of the crown with water at summer temperatures during the hottest hours.
• Removing the seed pods so that the bush does not waste energy on ripening the seeds, but directs them to young growth. This should be done in hot weather so that the injured shoot dries out immediately.
• If the plant was not fertilized with Kemira during flowering, it needs June fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizer, for example, ammonium nitrate (25–30 g per 10 liters of water). Nitrogen is needed for the growth of green shoots. Watering rate is 2 buckets of solution per adult bush.
• In addition to feeding rhododendrons in the spring and June, some gardeners recommend applying fertilizers in the second half of July. By this time, the shoot has finished growing, its leaves become dense, leathery, and at the top it appears flower bud. Feeding at this time with a phosphorus-potassium composition guarantees abundant flowering next year.

Advice! For feeding in three doses - in early spring (100 g/m²), during flowering (100 g/m²) and in mid-July (50 g/m²) use the following universal composition of acidic fertilizers. Mix superphosphate (10 parts) and sulfates - ammonium (9), potassium (4), magnesium (2).

By the end of summer, a flower bud has formed at the top of each shoot - now the main thing is to preserve it until spring.

Preparing for winter

An important element of rhododendron care is proper preparation for winter.

An evergreen shrub must be very well saturated with moisture in winter so that it is enough for the long months of cold weather, so it is recommended to water it abundantly in the fall. Deciduous shrubs need watering only in dry weather.

Both deciduous and evergreen species need to cover the root system with a thick layer of mulch (up to 20 cm). The soil is covered in a near-trunk circle to the radius of the crown.

To provide shelter around the bush, build a wire frame or wooden slats- a kind of improvised wigwam. It is covered with spruce branches or covered with 2 layers of breathable covering material (burlap, lutrasil). Low-growing varieties are covered with fallen leaves and pine needles.

Covering an ornamental shrub with spruce branches

When growing rhododendrons, the main thing is to understand their nature, learn to recognize problems and needs by the condition and appearance of the bush. The plant is responsive not only to correct agricultural technology, but also to love and care and will certainly reciprocate.

Video about preparing rhododendrons for winter:

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Highly decorative shrubs, abundantly planted with lush inflorescences, are widely used in the design of landscape areas and landscaping of garden and park areas in many countries around the world. But you can grow shrubs yourself, in your garden. It is enough to know the features of planting, care and propagation of this unusual crop for our latitudes. And in order for the shrub to easily withstand harsh snowy winters, it is important to choose the appropriate winter-hardy variety of rhododendron. Read all the nuances of agricultural technology for growing this exotic crop and practical recommendations from gardeners in this article. A selection of photos and video lessons will complement general idea about the process of growing rhododendron in open ground.

Rhododendron, botanical description

• Rhododendron is a typical representative of the Heather family, which unites various types of shrubs, trees and even indoor plants.
• Garden rhododendron is presented as low-growing varieties, the bushes of which literally creep along the ground, and giant lush shrubs reaching a height of 3-7 m.

• Both evergreen and deciduous varieties of tree rhododendrons are grown in cultivation.
• This shrub genus is distributed in temperate latitudes of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The growing area in Russia varies depending on the type of plant: from the warm Crimea to harsh Siberia and the Far East.
• In natural natural conditions, rhododendrons can grow as single crops or as entire bush thickets. They are found near forests, swamps, on mountain slopes, in the tundra and forest-steppes.
• Yours interesting name, the plant received due to its spectacular appearance during the flowering period. Rhododendron, translated from Greek, means “rose-tree”. The flowering bush is densely covered large flowers, reminiscent of roses.

• Flowers Rhododendron flowers are collected in lush inflorescences of a raceme or corymb, with corollas of yellow, pink, purple and red shades. The size of an individual flower can be from 5 to 25 cm in diameter, the shape resembles a disproportionate bell with long and graceful stamens. Due to the combination of flowers into dense inflorescences, the branch looks like a real bouquet. Flowering begins in early spring and continues, in some species, until the cold weather. The fruit is presented in a multi-seeded capsule.
• Escapes can be smooth or pubescent. But the leaves of rhododendrons are very diverse. Depending on the species or variety, they can be perennial or annual, with or without a petiole, ovoid or elongated.
• Root system in culture - fibrous, compact, located close to the surface of the earth. This property important to consider when caring for rhododendrons.

Rhododendron, varieties and species diversity

The species diversity of rhododendrons can be divided into 3 groups:

• Evergreens

Such shrubs do not shed their leaves, even in winter. The leaves are usually dark green, and the flowers are large and of different shades. They prefer light partial shade and well-drained, peat-rich soil.

• Semi-deciduous

An intermediate group of plants represented by low bushes, winter well under snow cover. Most of leaves fall off during this period, leaving whorls only at the tips of the branches.

• Deciduous

Shrubs, common to the central part of the country, shed their leaves during the onset of cold weather. The plant is perfectly adapted to winter climate.

The huge variety of rhododendron species allows you to choose a specific variety that is most adapted to certain climate conditions and growing environment. Let's look at the most famous of them.

Rhododendron Daurian

An evergreen woody shrub, with upward-pointing branches, reaches a height of 2-4 m. The leaves are small, with a glossy surface. Flowers - large sizes(4 cm in diameter) and purple-violet shades. This species blooms profusely for 3-4 weeks. It is also possible to bloom again in the fall. The species is easily propagated by cuttings and has high winter hardiness.

Adams rhododendron

Winter-hardy, evergreen and low-growing shrub characterized by widely spreading branches. The matte green leaves are elongated - oval shape. The flowers are small, but due to lush inflorescences, collected in 10-15 pieces, look very beautiful and impressive.

Japanese rhododendron

The birthplace of the species is Japan. Deciduous branched shrub, reaching no more than 2 meters in height. The leaves of rhododendron are green, slightly pubescent; in autumn they take on colorful orange hues. Large (up to 8 cm in diameter) bell-shaped flowers have a pleasant aroma. The color scheme of the inflorescences is carmine-red. Japanese rhododendron is one of the most attractive and magnificent representatives of this genus.

Caucasian rhododendron

Originally from the Caucasus, the species is an evergreen, low shrub, with branches creeping along the ground. The leaves are dark green, oblong in shape. The flowers are bell-shaped and fragrant, of different colors, depending on the variety. These can be pink, yellow or purple-white corollas. And various colored inclusions (green, red) allow the flowers to look very original and unusual.

Rhododendron pink

Deciduous ornamental shrub, reaching a height of 1.5 to 3 m. At home (in North America) it can grow up to 5 m. The shape of the bush is compact, with erect branches. Blooms profusely in May with bright pink fragrant inflorescences.

Rhododendron hybrid

It is a large group of rhododendron hybrids. The most popular cultivated varieties of this type of hybrids are:

• variety "Alfred"

An evergreen and compact shrub 1-2 m tall, with large (up to 6 cm) flowers collected in dense and fluffy inflorescences. Corollas - Pink colour, with light green splashes.

• variety "Blue Peter"

A medium-sized shrub (1.5-2 m), with a widely spreading crown, distinguished by the color of its corollas, which is unusual for the species. The delicate blue shade of the ruffled flower, with a bright pink spot on the upper petal, attracts attention with its beauty and expressiveness.

• variety "Rose Marie"

The shrub reaches a height of no more than 1.5 m, and the circumference of the crown is approximately the same. The leaves are oblong, with a waxy coating. Flowers of delicate pink shades are collected in inflorescences of 10-15 pieces.

Winter-hardy varieties of rhododendron

It is a mistake to consider rhododendrons to be a heat-loving exotic crop that is unable to grow in cold climates. Currently, a lot of frost-resistant varieties of rhododendrons have been developed that are perfectly adapted to cold and harsh winters. Many of them are able to winter without additional shelter and withstand very low temperatures (down to -30 ° C).

• "Grandiflorum" (compact bush with purple inflorescences),
• "Nova Zembla" (distinguished by its bright, ruby-colored inflorescences),
• "Caractacus" (medium-sized bush with burgundy-pink corrugated inflorescences),
• "Album Novum" (spherical bush with soft pink flowers),
• “Elite” (spreading bush with inflorescences, contrasting shades, can withstand -35°C),
• "Hague" (small shrub, with corollas, pink color),
• “Helsinki University” (named after the University of Helsinki, withstands -40°C),
• "Daughter of Pohjola" (spreading, low-growing bush with purple flowers).

Where to buy rhododendron

• To purchase a specific variety of rhododendron, it is best to contact specialized nurseries (for example, the Botanical Garden) or stores. It is there that you can get high-quality and necessary planting material. Besides, experienced flower growers willingly share the secrets and features of growing this crop.
• If you purchase rhododendron seedlings on spontaneous markets, there are risks of purchasing the wrong variety or one not adapted to cold climatic conditions.

Rhododendron propagation

You can grow a crop on your own site, knowing how to reproduce it. Rhododendron, like most shrubs, reproduces using seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting and dividing the bush.

Which method is the most effective and easiest to implement?

Seed method of propagation of rhododendron

Propagating a crop using seeds is a long and not easy task. Usually, this method practiced by breeders to develop new varieties. Amateur flower growers will also be able to grow rhododendron from seeds, following a certain technology.

• In early spring, the seeds are sown in containers with a fertile peat-earth mixture (with the addition of sand), covered with glass and placed in a lighted place.
• Sowing is carried out superficially, without planting the seeds deep into the soil.
• Seeds can be soaked in water in advance and kept for a day, which will ensure a higher percentage of germination.
• The soil in the container must be constantly moist. It is better to spray water to avoid stagnation of moisture or waterlogging of the soil.
• Overdrying, as well as waterlogging of the soil, can lead to the death of seedlings.
• Planted in a container and covered with glass or film, the seeds are regularly (daily) ventilated. During ventilation, you need to wipe the glass to remove any condensation that appears.
• The container should be illuminated for at least 12 hours a day. If daylight is not enough, fluorescent lamps are used.
• The first shoots appear after 2.5-3 weeks. After just a month, the grown seedlings can be planted (while diving) into separate pots. At the same time, lower the temperature in the room to 10-12°C.
• In summer, it is better to take the pots outside, placing them in partial shade.

• Seedlings are planted in open ground only next spring.
• Rhododendron grown from seeds will bloom in about 4-5 years.

Propagation of rhododendron by cuttings

• Prepare cuttings by cutting semi-lignified shoots (preferably apical ones), about 8-10 cm long. The lower cut is made oblique.

• After cutting the lower leaves from the shoots, it is recommended to soak the cuttings in a solution of a root growth stimulator for about 12-15 hours.
• Place the cuttings in a soil-peat mixture (as when sowing seeds) at an angle of about 30º, compact the soil and cover with glass or plastic jars. Maintain the temperature in the room around 20-25ºС.
• After their initial rooting (from 2 to 5 months, depending on the variety), plant the cuttings in separate containers for growing and hardening, reducing the room temperature to 10ºC.
• In the spring, plant the cuttings in the soil along with the container and grow them in this way for several more years.
• Rooted developing cuttings, after 2-3 years, are planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction of rhododendron by layering

This type of propagation is recognized by gardeners as the most convenient and simplest, especially for deciduous representatives of rhododendron.

• To “pin” the shoots to the ground, in the spring, select the lowest branch of the bush, dig a small groove under it (up to 15 cm deep) and place the selected shoot there.
• For better rooting, the cuttings are pinned in the middle with a metal bracket (rigid wire), and the groove with the cutting is sprinkled with earth on top. The top of the shoot is not sprinkled, but tied to a wooden peg.

• Layers are provided with regular watering, constantly maintaining a humid microclimate.
• When in the fall or spring, the cuttings have completely taken root, you can separate them from the mother bush and plant them in a new place.
• When leaving the cuttings to overwinter, it is better to provide them with shelter using dry leaves or spruce branches.

In addition to the methods described, rhododendron propagation is also practiced by dividing the bush along with part of the root system. The division procedure can be carried out in early spring or autumn.

Reproduction through grafting is a complex process that requires certain skill and experience. Used for slow-growing rhododendron species.

Rhododendron, planting features

Boarding time

• The plant can be planted in spring and autumn, with the exception of the flowering period and 10-15 days after it.
• Most often, gardeners plant rhododendron in the spring (to avoid freezing of the seedlings).

Landing location

• Preference should be given to a semi-shaded, windless place, preferably on the north side of the garden.
• The shrub does not really like direct intense sunlight or too shaded places.
• You should not plant the crop in places where there is stagnant moisture.
• It is also important to pay attention to the “neighbors” of the rhododendron: trees and shrubs with a shallow root system will become competitors on the site, which can affect the lack of moisture and nutrients.

The soil

• The soil should be acidic, loose, fertile and drained.
• Rhododendrons do not tolerate alkaline or neutral environments.
• Heavy clay substrates inhibit plant growth. But the presence of peat in the soil will ensure optimal development of the bush.

Agricultural planting technology

• Given the superficial location of the numerous rhododendron roots, it is necessary to dig a shallow (about 40 cm) but wide (up to 60 cm) hole.
• The hole should be twice the actual size of the seedling.

• At the bottom of the hole, pour a drainage layer (15-20 cm) of pebbles, crushed stone or pieces of slate, then sprinkle with a mixture of loam and peat (1:2).
• Having compacted the soil mixture, the seedling is placed vertically in the hole. Fill it with soil up to the root collar and compact the soil.

It is important to place the root collar at the level of the soil surface! Otherwise, the plant will wither and may die!

• When planting in poor soil, add organic and mineral fertilizers.
• Water the planted seedling generously with water.
• Additional mulching (5-7 cm) of the tree trunk circle will ensure moisture retention. Foliage, moss, pine needles or peat are used as mulch.
• In the case of planting rhododendron with buds or inflorescences, it is better to remove them, directing all the efforts of the plant to the successful rooting of the shrub.
• When planting a crop in groups, leave a gap between the shrubs, depending on the future size of the species (from 0.5 to 2 m) and the intended purpose of the crop. For example, if growing rhododendron involves a “hedge”, they are planted much more often (30-40 cm).
• In the first days after planting, the shrub should be protected from direct sunlight and sprayed with water more often.

The shallow root system of rhododendron makes it easy to replant young shrubs without damaging the roots and quickly taking root in a new location.

Rhododendron, plant care rules

When growing rhododendrons in your garden, you need to know how to properly care for the plant so that it will delight you with its lush flowering and beauty for as long as possible.

Watering

• Rhododendron is a moisture-loving plant, but at the same time it does not tolerate excessive waterlogging. Although the lack of moisture has a detrimental effect on the crop.
• The need for watering is visually noticeable in the condition of the leaves of the bush: if they have become less shiny, yellowed and wither, the rhododendron needs watering. In addition, lack of moisture significantly shortens the flowering period of rhododendron.

• Watering with acidified soft and settled water has a beneficial effect on the bush. To prepare such water, you need to add several handfuls of high-moor peat to the water a day before watering.
• In the case of a dry summer and autumn, additional winter watering is carried out in late autumn, before the onset of frost.

Loosening and mulching

• Considering the shallow location of the roots of rhododendrons, it is necessary to very carefully weed out weeds and loosen the soil near the bush.
• Deep loosening or digging up the area can damage the roots, after which it will be difficult for the plant to recover.
• To retain moisture, the soil around the trunk should be mulched. Materials that increase soil acidity are used as mulch.

Feeding and fertilizing

• Fertilizers that preserve the acidic soil environment are suitable for rhododendron: superphosphate, potassium nitrate and sulfate, magnesium sulfate, ammonium or calcium.
• Fertilizers are applied in low concentrations in liquid form.
• As an organic fertilizer, use an aqueous solution (1:15) of half-rotted cow manure. The solution is infused for several days. Pig and horse manure reduce the acidity of the soil, so their use is not recommended.
• Rhododendrons are fed 2-3 times per season, from early spring until the end of the growing season (in August).

Trimming

• If the rhododendron bush is uniform and correct form, - it does not need pruning.
• If the bush is too thick and overgrown, there are protruding, dry, damaged branches - they are pruned in early spring. Thick sections (2-4 cm) are treated with garden varnish or paint to avoid infection.
• Gardeners recommend pruning faded buds to ensure the same abundant flowering next season.

Shelter for the winter

• Most rhododendron varieties grown in cold and harsh winters require winter shelter. Young seedlings must be prepared for wintering.

• Cover the bush in late autumn by wrapping it with roofing felt, burlap or film. Covering with spruce branches or foliage (in the case of low-growing rhododendron) is also practiced.
• In the spring, remove the shelter when the weather is consistently warm (+10 C).

Pest and disease control

• Slugs or snails can settle on the bush, which are simply collected by hand.
• If the plant has bugs, scale insects, spider mite, mealyworm or rhododendron flies - you cannot do without treatment with a special fungicide. In such cases, “Tiram”, “Karbofos”, “TMTD”, “Diazin” are used.
• If rhododendron is affected by fungal diseases (rust, spotting, chlorosis), you should pay attention to the watering regime and ensuring aeration of the plant roots. Chlorosis is destroyed using iron chelate, rotten branches are completely removed, and for the purpose of prevention and treatment, the entire bush is treated with Bordeaux mixture in spring or autumn.

Applications of rhododendron

• The main purpose of the shrub is decorative. That's why landscape designers have long been in love with this unusual beautiful plant and use it to decorate and landscape gardens, parks, and adjacent areas.

• Shrubs look impressive both in single plantings (as the central accent of the composition) and in groups (creating a hedge or flower frame). A successful combination for a blooming rhododendron any undersized plants will become conifers, ferns, heather.

• Some varieties of rhododendron, due to their medicinal properties, are used in folk medicine. The medicinal substances contained in the plant: arbutin, andromedotoxin, rhododendrin, ascorbic acid have calming, analgesic, antipyretic and bactericidal effects. Considering that many varieties of rhododendron are poisonous, the plant should never be used without consulting a doctor.

The main advantages of the plant are long-lasting and decorative flowering. The richness of colors of lush inflorescences abundantly located on the bush impresses with its sophistication and beauty. By following the simple requirements for caring for rhododendron, you can grow this wonderful plant on your own site.

Rhododendron, photo

Video: “Garden rhododendron: planting and care” part 1

Video: “Garden rhododendron: planting and care” part 2