Homemade circular saw machine. How to make a circular saw with your own hands

A circular saw is a tool that no home craftsman can do without. This equipment is especially relevant for country house or dachas. But working with a manual machine is not always convenient, and factory machines are quite expensive.

A way out of this situation may be to make this device yourself. The basis of this machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but even an electric drill or grinder.

Making a bed for a circular saw with your own hands is very simple. For production you will need the most regular lumber and quite a bit of time.

Before you think about the design of the upcoming machine, you need to calculate the load to which it will be subjected. The main thing in the bed is reliability and stability. For powerful production saws, the base is a welded reinforced metal structure. But you don’t need such a unit to use it yourself.

If you have just decided to make your own woodworking machine, then you need take into account the main parameters equipment. Since saws can be different, naturally, the design of the bed can also be different.

First of all you need determine the power of the tool. As a rule, for home use, equipment is chosen whose power parameters do not exceed 850 Watts. But, for example, when building a summer house or country house, it is often necessary to cut a very large amount of wood.

That is, more circular power is required. But experienced craftsmen It is not recommended to buy saws where this figure is more than 1250 watts. Installing this equipment in a home workshop is absolutely not justified. And working on it will only increase electricity costs.

The greater the productivity of the machine, the more stable the base is needed. For professional circular saws, as a rule, a base is installed, welded from steel profile . Sometimes these frames are even concreted into the floor. Because vibration of the device can cause danger to life.

Technical features of circular machines





Depth of the proposed cut. The thickness of the material that will be processed on your machine depends on this parameter. This figure in semi-professional and professional machines ranges from 5 to 8 cm. For cutting boards and thick plywood, this is quite enough.

But working with logs on this machine will be inconvenient. In addition, you need to take into account that this characteristic has homemade saw decreases. The depth of the cut will be approximately 1 cm less. But this can be avoided if you provide in the table frame the ability to lower or raise the disk.

When making a tool with your own hands, you need take into account the frequency of its rotation. If you need a circular saw to prepare building materials, then this figure may be less. If a clean and even cut is needed, then the rotation speed is needed quite high. This is needed, for example, for making furniture.

But even in this case, there are certain nuances. For cutting plastic materials This saw is not suitable. Due to very high tool speeds the disk is warming up, and the plastic begins to melt.

Therefore, it is better to choose a device where the rotation speed is no more than 4500 rpm; in this case, the bed for a circular saw can be make from wood. The vibration of this machine is low and additional reinforcement of the table is not required.

Well, in the end, what needs to be considered is the location of the buttons and other controls on your machine. When assembling the saw with your own hands, do not forget that access to the control panel must be safe. This rule is even more important when the open part of the saw is located at the bottom of the tabletop.

In this design, it is best to place the panel with switches from the outside of the machine or make a rising tabletop. This design is also convenient for servicing the device. Then, when you have taken into account all the nuances and little things, you can begin directly assembling the table.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

The simplest version of the frame for a circular saw is a structure made of boards and thick plywood. Moreover, the tool is directly attached to the bottom of the stationary tabletop. A special slot is made in the table top for the saw.

The dimensions of the table can be changed according to how convenient it is for you to work on it. As an example, an average table is described, the height of which is 110−120 cm. But a lot depends on the height of the person working with the equipment. You can also change the length of the tabletop according to your wishes.

If you plan to work with boards that are longer than 2.6 m, then the cover on the frame will need more. In this case, changes must be made directly to the design and additionally add some supports(legs). Otherwise, the table will create strong vibrations.

For countertops usually plywood is used, which has a thickness of at least 5 cm. But you can also choose plexiglass or fiberglass slabs. But professionals do not recommend using chipboard; this material is not reliable enough.

Tools and materials for assembly

For a circular saw, it is imperative to provide guides. They help cut wood much more accurately. This design welded from angle steel and fixed to the lid with clamps.

It is not advisable to attach stationary guides, since in the future you will not be able to change their position.

To build a table you will need the following materials:

  • sheet of iron;
  • plywood sheet;
  • timber measuring 50×50 mm;
  • board size 50×100 mm;
  • steel corner for guides;
  • two clamps;
  • hand circular saw.

You also need to first prepare all the tools that will be needed to assemble the table:

  1. Screwdriver, electric drill.
  2. Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
  3. Tools for measurements (tape measure, square, ruler).
  4. Hand cutter or milling machine.

When everything is prepared, you can begin assembling the table itself. Sometimes craftsmen assemble countertops from unnecessary dining or kitchen tables. But this design is unlikely to last long. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the design elements yourself. In this case, you can also take into account your personal needs.

Making a table top for a circular saw

Assembling the table begins with making the tabletop. The plywood sheet is marked so that the two edges of the lid are the same size as the edges of the iron sheet. Plywood is cut out using a hacksaw or jigsaw.

The edge of the cut can be processed with a milling cutter, but this operation is not necessary. Since the main parameter in the frame is reliability, and not an attractive appearance. The tabletop is rubbed “roughly” with sandpaper.

Mark the bottom of the tabletop slot for circular circle. To do this, you first need to measure the dimensions of the sole of the unit. The easiest way to do this is to unscrew the disk from the device and simply circle the desired part of the saw. These measurements are required to determine the seat.

With help hand cutter choose bars to a depth of approximately 0.9−1.1 cm. If you do not have a cutter, then this work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.

Then, when the seat is made, try the saw on and, if necessary, adjust the recess. Mark the slot locations for the circle and fixing the fasteners. If you need the circle to rise and fall, then you need install pendulum mechanism for the countertop.

In this case, the slot must be made in the shape of a truncated pyramid. In this case, the hypothetical top of the pyramid will be directed downward. Directly frame for lifting mechanism the best thing make from steel angles, which are welded to each other.

Making a table frame

The markings for fixing the transverse and longitudinal slats, which serve as stiffening ribs, are best installed on the underside of the tabletop. The planks themselves are made from timber. You will need:

  • Two transverse parts, length equal to the width of the table top minus 7-9 cm on each side.
  • Two longitudinal ribs, the size equal to the length of the lid minus 7-9 cm on each side.

Then you need make sockets for self-tapping screws. The slats must be fixed on the lid so that the tabletop extends 7-9 cm beyond the edges of the frame. The fasteners must be as reliable and durable as possible.

The first fastener should be installed approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the rail. The distance between the screws is approximately 23−25 cm. All details need to drill through. The self-tapping screw is attached to the side of the lid so that its head is completely recessed into the wood.

First, the transverse ribs are secured. In order for the table top to be as strong as possible, the edges of the slats must first be apply wood glue. The structure is fixed with clamps, and without removing them, screws are screwed in.

Allow the tabletop to dry completely. Afterwards, the longitudinal slats are installed in the same way. Then the parts of the frame are pulled together, installing two fasteners on each side. Now the clamps can be removed.

Attaching the legs (supports)

The table legs are made of timber. The height of the supports is selected individually. In practice, it is most convenient to work at the machine when the tabletop located at hip level. Before fastening, each support must be planed so that the leg goes down to an angle from below. So, the area of ​​the base of the support should be slightly larger, in contrast to the area of ​​the top.

It is best to secure the legs using steel corners. They need to be pressed a little so that the base of the machine is in the “spacer”. This gives the table extra durability. Bolts with washers are used as fasteners; they are secured with their heads facing outward. Otherwise, during work you can be injured by the protruding parts of the fasteners.

The whole structure will be more stable if additional supports are tightened with diagonal slats. They are attached in pairs on each side of the machine.

Cover surface polished and varnished or use a steel sheet for coating, which is attached to self-tapping screws. At the very end, the instrument is attached directly to the prepared place.

On the table top you can make additional markings, it will help you cut wood smoothly and correctly. The control panel of the circular saw is located on the outside of the machine. As a rule, it is mounted on one of the table legs. That's all, your DIY circular saw is ready.

If a person lives in a private house or has a garden plot, then having a stationary circular saw in the arsenal of a home craftsman is not only desirable, but sometimes necessary. Unfortunately, the cost of an industrially manufactured sample of such a saw does not correspond to its frequency. home use, and for some Russians it’s simply not affordable. At the same time, making a “circular” with your own hands is quite simple, using a drive for this sewing machine or a regular electric drill. However, the quality of work performed and the range of operations performed largely depend on the bed of the circular saw.

Bed design

Circular saw stand

The simplest circular saw frame, the drive power of which does not exceed 0.8...12 kilowatts, is quite easy to make with your own hands from thick plywood and wooden blocks. For the drive, you can use an electric drill “BOSCH GSB 19-2” (power 0.85 kilowatts) or “DWT SBM-1050” (power 1.05 kilowatts), which is attached to under the stove using a special bracket. The length of the bed will depend on the length of the material being cut. For the table, you must purchase bakelite plywood with a thickness of at least 50.0 millimeters. Of course, a wooden bed is not suitable for professional work, but in order to unravel boards and quickly saw through bars, such a homemade design is quite sufficient.

In general, the bed will consist of a base and a tabletop (desktop). Of course, when manually making a circular saw yourself, you must strive to simplify the design as much as possible. The design of the desktop will primarily be determined by the design of the mounting unit cutting disc. Homemade circular devices use either a circular disk mounted directly in the chuck of an electric drill, or (more preferably) a two-support shaft driven into rotation by an electric motor through a belt drive.

Making a countertop

At the first stage of making a frame with a wooden tabletop with your own hands, the existing sheet of plywood is placed in accordance with the existing sketch or drawing. In order to reduce the number of cuts, markings are carried out from the edges of the sheet. The tool used is a fine-toothed hacksaw or a jigsaw.

A slot for the disk is marked on the underside of the sawn piece. The cut can be made with a finger cutter, securing it with your own hands in the chuck of an electric drill. In order to maintain the straightness of the cut edges, a simple homemade copier made from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps. Further work depends on the mechanism for attaching the circular saw blade. Most simply it manually installed on two bearing supports, and driven through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.

To add additional rigidity to the tabletop, it is advisable to attach stiffening ribs along its edges, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. The stiffeners are fastened to the table using self-tapping screws. To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the joint, which will fix the block to the tabletop along the entire plane of the joint. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the block should be 2.0...4.0 centimeters.

After this, in accordance with the selected drive design, the circular disk support assembly is attached. For reliable fastening, it is better to fix the bearing housings to the frame using a screw, threaded connection. In this case, the countersunk screw heads are located on the upper plane of the tabletop and should not protrude above its plane. The upper working surface of the desktop should be coated with wear-resistant varnish and polished.

For greater safety when working with a homemade device, it is advisable to install a swinging protective cover over the cutting edge of the disk.

Base design

For safe work For a homemade circular saw, the table must be installed on a sufficiently rigid and durable base. To make it manually, the master’s imagination is given complete freedom. The base can be made in the form of a wooden base, but it is better to weld it from a corner (such as an aquarium frame) in accordance with the size of the tabletop.

Some manufacturing nuances

The main parameter that determines the design of a homemade “circular saw” is the thickness of the boards being cut. For household work with your own hands, it is usually not necessary to saw wood thicker than 15.0 ... 20.0 millimeters. To change the depth of the cut, you can use and/or make a special mechanism for lifting the disk, but this will significantly complicate the design of the homemade product.

When choosing a drive motor, the rotation speed of its shaft should be taken into account. Using a belt drive, you can change the speed with your own hands. If you intend to use an electric drill as a drive, then preference should be given to models with variable chuck rotation speed, then using such a hand-made circular saw will be a pleasure.

Conclusion

Despite the primitiveness of the described design, it will significantly facilitate do-it-yourself homework, from carpentry operations with boards to cross-cutting of trimmed garden trees thick knots.

Review and comparison of factory models

Einhell RT-TS 920 Hitachi C10RD Jet JBTS-10 Metabo TKHS 315

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How to make a machine from a circular saw with your own hands?

  • Wooden machine from a circular saw
  • Making a metal frame: instructions
  • Making a stationary circular

An excellent tool for sawing various lumber at home is a hand-held circular saw. This power tool can cut lumber of various sections at any angle. This tool perfectly cuts sheets of plywood, hardboard or chipboard.


Diagram of a circular saw machine.

However, the technical capabilities of such a tool can be significantly expanded, which is often necessary when performing repair work, if you make a stationary machine from a circular saw with your own hands.

It is not difficult to carry out such a transformation, and anyone who needs it can make a machine from a circular saw. To do this, you simply need to fix it on the prepared surface in a certain position. In the simplest version, durable construction trestles can be used as an installation site. For long-term use of a circular saw machine, it is better to make a durable, welded metal frame.

To do this wooden base, required:

  • sheet of plywood 8-10 mm thick;
  • wooden blocks size 40x50 mm;
  • universal glue;
  • self-tapping screws and bolts with M8 nuts.

Diagram of a homemade cutting device.

A sheet measuring approximately 100x60 cm is cut out of plywood (maybe another). Along the edges of the plywood sheet (along its perimeter), bars are attached using glue and self-tapping screws. Then the tool body is applied to the inside of the sheet, and the places where it is attached to it are marked, as well as the groove for the cutting disk. After that, a groove for the passage of the disk is cut out with a jigsaw (or a router), and holes are drilled for attaching the body. The legs are attached to the side bars using bolts. The height of the circular saw machine is selected from 80 to 90 cm. The body is attached to a previously prepared place on its inner side. The bolts for its fastening must be made flush (not protrude on the surface). The lid must be varnished or painted.

To ensure that the material is cut strictly to size, a guide block is installed parallel to the cutting disc. The block can be attached to the table surface with clamps. The wooden circular saw machine is ready for use.

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A circular saw machine made of metal is much stiffer and stronger than wood and has a longer service life. To make such a stand, you will need next material and tool:

  • a sheet of metal (preferably steel) measuring approximately 1000x500 mm and a thickness of 3 to 5 mm;
  • metal corner approximately 45x45 mm;
  • M8 bolts and nuts;
  • welding machine;
  • electric drill;
  • Bulgarian;
  • clamps.

First of all, prepare a table for the machine from a circular saw. To do this around the perimeter metal sheet welded metallic profile. In order for it to fit tightly to the sheet, it must be pressed to the surface with clamps. Then, on the back side of the sheet, the attachment points for the housing and the groove for the saw blade are marked. Using an electric drill, holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled to mount the housing.

Assembly diagram homemade sawmill.

On the front side of the table, the holes are countersunk to install fasteners in a countersunk position.

Using a grinder and a drill, a groove for the disk is cut in the table. To cut the groove carefully, you need to drill holes with a diameter of approximately 10 mm along the edges of the intended groove and cut a groove between these holes with a grinder. The tool body is installed and secured to the prepared place.

Four pieces approximately 800 to 900 mm long are cut from the corner for the table legs. Then the legs are welded to the corners of the table. To give greater rigidity, a corner is welded between the legs at a distance of approximately 100 mm from the floor surface.

To ensure high-quality cutting of the material, it is necessary to install a guide bar parallel to the disk. It is best to make it from a corner. To do this, an even corner is cut along the length of the table, then two guides are welded to it, which should fix the movement of the bar parallel to the cutting disk. You can fasten the bar to the table with clamps or using a welded plate with bolts.

After graduation welding work are being cleared welding seams, the surfaces are degreased and covered with anti-corrosion paint. The circular saw machine is ready for use.

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If you don’t have a circular saw, and you need a more powerful machine for the job, you can make a small stationary machine. Such a machine, manufactured at a factory, is quite expensive, but a machine made by yourself will be several times cheaper. In order to make such a unit, we need the following material and tools:

Assembly of the front part of the machine.

  • steel sheet with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm, approximately 1200x700 mm in size;
  • metal corner 50x50 mm;
  • asynchronous motor at 220 V, 2.2 kW, 2850 rpm. (or another, at the request of the performer);
  • pulley for engine;
  • shaft with bearings and pulley;
  • V-belt;
  • saw blade:
  • M10 bolts;
  • welding machine;
  • Bulgarian;
  • electric drill;
  • clamps.

First of all, you need to purchase a shaft with bearings and a mount for the cutting disc. You can buy it in the store building materials or order and make it in workshops (they often have finished goods and cheaper than in the store).

A frame is welded from a corner to fit the size of the prepared sheet. Then it is temporarily installed on it. After that, the installation locations of the shaft and electric motor are marked. Then two corners are welded into the frame with their flat surfaces facing up to secure the shaft and motor. The prepared frame is attached to the sheet with clamps and welded. A groove for the disk is cut into the sheet. In prepared areas, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled to mount the shaft and motor. In the places where the motor is mounted, grooves are cut in the corners according to the size of the holes (for tensioning the V-belt).

Four corners are cut for the machine legs. The prepared legs are welded in the corners of the table frame. The structure is cleaned of rust, dirt and painted with metal paint. The shaft and motor are bolted to the back of the table, and a V-belt is installed. The belt is tensioned by moving the motor along the grooves, and then the mounting bolts are tightened tightly. The engine starting device is attached to the frame at the end. To ensure high-quality cutting, a guide bar is installed parallel to the disk, which can be attached to the table surface with clamps or bolts into pre-prepared holes. The unit is ready for use.

By making a machine from a circular saw, you can greatly facilitate the work of sawing lumber.

By building such a unit correctly with your own hands, you can save significant cash.

masterbrusa.ru

DIY table for a circular saw

A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Its cutting base is a flat metal disk with a serrated outer edge. When choosing such a tool, everyone decides for themselves what type they need: tabletop, manual, stationary. Many people prefer the manual option. However, in some situations it is necessary to secure the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity to secure the tool if necessary.

Preparation of tools and materials

Having decided to make a table for a hand-held circular saw yourself, you need to make sure that you have all the materials necessary for the work:

  • laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
  • 16 mm laminated chipboard or other sheet material suitable for making the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
  • bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on installation method);
  • self-tapping screws;
  • bolts.

Any hand-held circular saw will work for this table. It must be remembered that when attached to a table, the cutting depth decreases by 10–20 mm. So saws with small blades are not suitable for such a table.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw

1. Manufacturing of the body. Sheet material for the case it is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. The parts are fastened using self-tapping screws and bars. It is better to carry out the assembly by first drilling out the external parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom or lid. The upper part of the bars is subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.

2. Preparing and securing the plywood top. Hole slot. First, a piece 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measurements are taken of the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the table top. Markings are made on the back side of the plywood. 2 central axles will be required. Without them, it is impossible to make accurate markings. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they take the measurements that the circular has: the diameter of the lower protective casing, its thickness, the maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, place marks and cut out a rectangular hole using a jigsaw.

3. Attaching the saw to the plywood table top. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter – 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that working part went into the cut hole. When the saw is level, you need to mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, you will need plowshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8) for fastening. To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality recess of the cap; it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm when not tightened.

The plywood is drilled from the outside, the diameter of the resulting holes should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made for the head. When the holes are ready, sawing table for a circular saw, install the saw itself, tighten the bolts from the inside using nuts with plastic locks or spring washers.

4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made at a distance of 30 mm in the corners of the plywood tabletop. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using an M8 18 mm steel fitting. The usual “Start-Start” button is installed on the side. An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the instrument itself is pressed.

5. Manufacturing of a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a stop beam. Drawings contain everything required sizes. The beam can be made from plywood and secured using full extension furniture rails. The resulting beam should slide above the surface at an angle of 90° to the cutting plane with a slight gap.

6. Stop for longitudinal cuts. It is made from aluminum cornice. 150 mm from the edges, first drill holes for the bolts, and then draw 2 lines from the place where the bolts are attached to center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts, 12 mm holes are made at a distance of 30 mm. The bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines they make slits in the tonic; their width can be seen in the photo.

Information on how to make a table for a circular saw can be seen in the video. This will help you quickly and easily improve the equipment of your workshop.

Video of making a circular table with your own hands

Homemade circular saw with your own hands (circular saw, sawing table)
Circular table made from a hand-held circular saw. Option 2.

mainavi.ru

How to make a homemade table for a circular table with your own hands according to drawings

A hand-held circular saw is a powerful tool with high performance. One of the main advantages of a circular saw - maneuverability - becomes a disadvantage when it is necessary to cut large volumes of wood. To make the process easier, you can easily assemble your circular saw table yourself.

Table structure

small tabletop stand for circular saw

The design of a table for a hand-held circular saw is so simple that most craftsmen make it without preliminary drawings and diagrams. This is a sturdy workbench that is made of wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are the heaviest and require welding skills. Therefore, stands are often made from waste lumber. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the blade protrudes above it through a specially made slot. The lumber is advanced along the tabletop and cut with a rotating disk. For convenience and precision of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: an angular and longitudinal stop.

The tabletop “eats” part of the working surface of the disk, the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. Therefore, it is advisable to select a circular saw with a maximum disk diameter, and a table top that is thin but hard.

If you haven’t purchased a saw yet, choose models with high power (from 1200 W). They can handle cutting large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for mounting; the cast base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.

Selection of materials

mounting a circular saw under a tabletop

To do good stand for a hand-held circular saw, you should remember your carpentry skills, be patient and have a small amount of materials:

  • laminated plywood 15 - 20 mm;
  • timber 50 x 50;
  • board;
  • switch;
  • external socket;
  • a piece of electrical cable;
  • PVA glue;
  • wood varnish (if the plywood is not laminated);
  • self-tapping screws

And tools:

  • jigsaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • drill;
  • ruler.

The size of the countertop will depend on the size of the workshop. At the same time, it will be inconvenient to saw long pieces on a table that is too small. If the part fits entirely on the working surface, the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is selected depending on the height of the master.

Convenient for a small workshop tabletop design with approximate dimensions 50 x 50 x 25 cm.

Table manufacturing process

  1. We cut out a tabletop of the required size from a sheet of laminated plywood. The markings are applied to the lower plane using a metal ruler and pencil. We cut the plywood with a jigsaw, milling the edges if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, sand the surface of the table.
  2. We turn it over and make markings from the bottom for attaching a manual circular saw. To do this, remove the disc from the tool and place it with the sole in the required place. We make marks on the tabletop and on the sole for fasteners and a groove for saw blade. Drill holes for the bolts. They will be screwed from above, through the tabletop and held in place with nuts from below. Therefore, we countersink the holes on the working surface side and grind the bolt heads so that they do not protrude.
  3. If you plan to cut material for different angles, the slot for the saw wheel is made in the shape of an inverted trapezoid. For smooth sawing a regular groove is made. Before cutting the slot and holes for fasteners, apply a saw, adjust the marks and only then cut.
  4. Mark with a pencil the locations of the stiffeners. They are made from boards and installed from below, 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the tabletop. We will attach the table legs to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 - 25 centimeters, and additionally glued with PVA. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, through the tabletop, and the heads are completely recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
  5. The legs of the table are made of a block or board; their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. Legs that diverge slightly downwards will give greater stability. They are fixed with large bolts, tightened from the outside, and secured from the inside with nuts. The timber ties will further strengthen the frame.
  6. To adjust the height of the table, nuts are attached to the bottom into which M14 bolts are screwed.
  7. Now you can fix the saw from below by inserting the disc into the prepared slot.
  8. We attach an electrical outlet to the inside of the table and pass it through electrical wire and install the switch in a convenient place (on the outer part of the stiffener). Power to the outlet will be supplied from the switch. We stretch a wire from it to the nearest power source in the workshop. Using a construction tie, we fix the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in a recessed position.

Let's start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop you will need aluminum pipe square section#30 and two screws with wing nuts.

  1. We saw off a piece of pipe along the length of the tabletop, and cut holes for screws 3 cm from the edge.
  2. We cut out two clamps from pieces of plywood. The structure is ready.
  3. For sawing across the table, we make a plywood sled. We align them with the edges of the table, press them and move them along the toothed circle. We cut a groove where the circle passes through the slide. Small parts can be placed directly inside the slide and sawed.

Dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of the dust flies from above, so it’s a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust extractor.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, so it is important to protect your fingers. From a piece of board or furniture board cut out the pusher.

Additions to the design

This design can be supplemented with a riving knife, which will be removed. Put a disk guard on it, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly at the carpenter.

Some craftsmen, when assembling a table according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective casing and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If you do not plan to cut at an angle, you can remove all the devices for adjusting the tilt of the disk. The saw is fixed directly on the new base, which allows you to gain a few millimeters of cutting depth.

Without an internal casing, it is easier to remove the blade; the saw does not become so clogged with chips when working with damp boards. Disassembly requires extra time, but the engine resource is saved and overload is prevented.

The first video is about a stationary table for a circular saw, the second is about a small portable structure:

IN household Often a circular saw is not enough, especially if major repairs or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Design - main components, their purpose

A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:

  • adaptation of existing hand tools using the motor and circular saw for new possibilities;
  • improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
  • assembly of individual parts, manufactured mainly in-house.

Stationary circular saw includes several main components: table, shaft, motor and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.

The table is used for fastening woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled entirely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machines with a high-power engine. Wood also makes good circular tables. But it is necessary to take into account that the tabletop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.

An engine from washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their commutator motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, and are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if the household does not have 380 V, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work on 220 V.

The most important component is the shaft. Use a ready-made one, if available, or machine it from round metal. Work for lathe performed in one installation, then the assembly with the working parts is checked for centering. Even minimal runout is unacceptable, otherwise during work it will become stronger, at which it is unacceptable to work. Provide on the shaft seats: under the circular saw and under the pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planing knives.

Main parameters - calculation of power, speed, gear

Characteristics circular saw, engine and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. The maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated on the purchased circular disk. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum permissible saw tooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that to cut materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.

The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material jams, the belt slips on the pulleys. Injuries in such cases are practically eliminated. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum permissible speed of the circular saw. We calculate the required pulley diameters. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the circular shaft to increase the number of revolutions.

The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the engine revolutions as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home

To work with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan it, and select a quarter. A fairly powerful electric motor and a rigid table are required. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm; you can plan boards 200 mm wide. A three-phase motor of 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. To connect to 220 V, capacitors are required.

1 – machine frame; 2 – panel; 3 – starter; 4 – device for height adjustment; 5.7 – work table of two halves; 6 – base; 8 – engine; 9 – platform; 10 – M10 studs; 11 – circular disk; 12 – shaft; 13 – stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 – driven pulley; 15 – belt; 16 – drive pulley; 17 – switch.

The work table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is not sufficient for comfortable work; the circular saw will have to be installed on an additional platform; it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the remaining sizes to fit them, but design features remain unchanged.

First we make the bed frame from steel corners 25x25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another similar lower frame. For a frame with a higher height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has grooves for the engine platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. By tightening the studs, we tighten the belts, then we lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.

To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45°. A total of eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in mirror image. We attach cross members to the outer posts. We drill holes in the middle of each of them and weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to regulate the lift.

Their ends rest against racks welded to frames assembled from 75x50 mm corners. We weld studs into them on the side opposite the grooves for the adjustment mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the frames with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:

  • loosen the nuts on the racks;
  • we turn the screw, which presses on the stop, raising or lowering the table;
  • tighten the stud nuts;
  • We perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.

The design can be simplified without installing an adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but from one piece, you will only need four racks for the lifting mechanism.

Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one

It’s easy to make a stationary one from a hand-held circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. A convenient material is Finnish plywood, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the workpieces glide well over the surface during processing. It is thick enough to withstand a lot of weight, moisture resistant, and easy to process. You can use ordinary 20 mm plywood, but you just need to paint it, or better yet, cover it with sheet steel or textolite.

You need to understand that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a disk large diameter, so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient to ensure that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that on a wide table you can additionally strengthen an electric plane and a jigsaw, which will make the machine universal.

Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make additional accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.

Mark a rectangle on a sheet of plywood required sizes, cut out, process the edges. Using the sole, we apply a hand-held circular saw to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for the circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a milling cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the tabletop. This manufacturing method will allow you to bring the cutting depth closer to that indicated in the circular saw’s passport.

From the boards we make a frame (tsars), which we install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue them to the tabletop, securing them with clamps. We screw self-tapping screws into the boards across the table. We countersink the holes for them from above so that the heads of the screws are hidden. We attach the legs to the frames of the stationary saw, preferably with bolts, washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.

We make a limit bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install an outlet connected to the network on the drawer. We install a switch in the gap in the wire going to the saw.

Some aspects of the execution of homemade devices

No matter how well a circular machine is made, individual errors can lead to its performance being limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. Installing conventional ones is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For a homemade device with permanent use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls and are adjusted by tightening the clamping nut. Be sure to install a cover to protect against dust and chips.

On the working surface we apply a scale in centimeter increments. This will make woodworking much easier when determining the width of the cut. Many people neglect to install a protective shield over the disk, but in vain - treatment for chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.

When working with various materials, it is often necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. Homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to regulate the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of different diameters. They are installed on the motor shaft. If you decide to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.

Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on a sawing machine, without having 380 V. They will need capacitors designed for minimum operating voltage 600V paper or oil-paper type.

We calculate the capacitance of the capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 µF for the working capacitor Av. We take the capacity of the starting joint twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. Startup is simple: turn on SQ, press SB for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.

It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is precisely longitudinal sawing blanks How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

  • base;
  • sawing table;
  • parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complicated structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

Exist various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of its attachment to circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point mounting (front and rear) Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback.
Single point mounting (front) Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of a circular table Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the circular table structure, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-production, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Preparing for work

Before you begin, you need to decide on the necessary set of tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

  1. Circular saw or you can use.
  2. Screwdriver.
  3. Grinder (Angle grinder).
  4. Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

  1. Plywood.
  2. Solid pine.
  3. Steel tube with internal diameter 6-10 mm.
  4. Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
  5. Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
  6. Self-tapping screws.
  7. Wood glue.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

  • The base of the transverse part;
  1. Longitudinal part
    , 2 pcs.);
  • The base of the longitudinal part;
  1. Clamp
  • Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

A couple of points to note:

  • flat longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage from (or alternatively, you can make it “on a quick fix» false table), which you don’t really mind deforming or ruining. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

  • The base of the transverse part;
  • Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
  • Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
  • End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars - upper and lower - have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

Longitudinal part of the guide

All longitudinal part comprises:

    , 2 pcs.);
  • The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Installing the guide

It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

... and we consider the work finished - the circular saw is ready with your own hands.

Video

Video on which this material was made.

The vast majority of repairs and dacha work require good carpentry power tools. Often in home carpentry it is necessary to cut massive lumber onto battens or slats. You can’t run into your neighbors with a stationary circular saw, and a hand-held circular saw is inconvenient for these purposes. Therefore, most DIYers sooner or later come up with the idea of ​​making a stationary circular saw for themselves with their own hands from scrap materials.

Operating conditions for a circular saw on wood

A circular saw is needed primarily to make a long cut in solid wood, precise and even, like a stretched string. Provide high quality cutting is possible only by fulfilling three conditions:

  • High speed of movement of the cutting edge of the saw. Ideally, you can obtain a cut quality comparable to a surface sanded with emery cloth;
  • The sharp cutting edge of a circular saw tooth. Some brands of discs are made of high-speed steel, but it is best to use a carbide-tipped tool;
  • High rigidity of the “circular saw blade - work table” system. The higher the rigidity, the more accurate and smooth the cutting line will be.

Any saw with a working tool in the form of a toothed disk poses a serious danger to the worker, so they try to make the table for a circular saw with their own hands as durable and easy to use as possible.

For your information! In industrial circular saws, large diameter discs are used, up to 60-70 cm, so the electric motor speed is relatively low - 800-1200 rpm. For a home circular saw, the cutting disc dimensions do not exceed 25 cm, so the rotation speed is required to be quite high - up to 10,000 rpm.

Circular manufacturing options

You can build a circular saw in a home workshop using one of four schemes:

  1. Place on a welded metal table asynchronous electric motor 1.0-1.5 kW, make an overdrive belt drive onto the shaft, onto which the cutting disc is secured using a flange;
  2. Make it small wooden table under low power engine from the washing machine;
  3. Install an industrial-made hand-held circular saw on a machine assembled from a wooden beam;
  4. Use a conventional angle grinder, in which the abrasive disc is replaced with a steel cutting tool, as a drive to build a circular saw.

All of the above schemes are used in practice with varying effectiveness. If you need to cut thick beams and logs up to 100 mm thick, you will need a circular saw with a powerful engine and a steel frame.

A grinder is well suited for trimming small parts made of wood, but it is practically not used for a stationary circular saw due to the limited time of continuous operation. A circular saw made from a washing machine motor is relatively weak and inconvenient. Low power- 500 W and low speeds require the manufacture of an overdrive V-belt transmission and a system of two shafts. There is a lot of hassle, but the quality of the cut and productivity with such a circular saw are low.

Building a home circular

According to reviews of many home-made carpenters, the easiest way is to convert a manual model of a circular saw into a stationary one, or, more correctly, an easel one. In this case, you can kill at least three birds with one stone:

  • Firstly, hand-held circular saws have high rotation speeds, which means they provide good quality cutting;
  • Secondly, in a commutator motor the shaft is mounted on bearings designed for radial load;
  • Third , cantilever mount cutting blade allows you to relatively quickly replace it with a new one, without disassembling the circular saw.

For your information! The main advantage of the above circular saw circuit is the correctly selected engine torque and its speed, ensuring maximum performance apparatus.

On a 225mm diameter drive, the offset, or height of the drive above the workbench, is only 40mm. This is more than enough to cut a magpie board into a plank or batten, cut out any shaped parts and solid wood. In addition, a spring-loaded protective cover is installed on the body of the circular saw, covering the cutting edge in the non-working position.

Perhaps this device is useful and necessary for protecting fingers and hands, but it only interferes with work, since the thin cutting edge of the disk is not visible. Therefore, when remodeling, it is often dismantled or fixed to the body of the circular saw in the open position.

Converting a hand-held circular saw into a stationary version

Everything you need to do to convert a hand saw to stationary option circular saws, this is to make a table or box-shaped body and secure the saw with reverse side table top so that part of the cutting edge of the disk protrudes above the plane of the table, photo.

The size and shape of the circular table are selected based on the width and length of the lumber. For small boards, a one and a half meter table, 60-70 cm wide, would be optimal. Support part circular saw can be welded from a steel angle with a flange width of 25-30 mm. Horizontal struts from reinforcement or angle are welded into the upper and lower parts of the legs. This solution allows for maximum frame rigidity.

For the tabletop you can use laminated chipboard or OSB, plywood 15-20 mm thick. In this case, the tabletop itself does not have to be positioned symmetrically relative to the steel support frame. When cutting a board on a circular saw, you have to work with both hands. With one hand we feed the material forward longitudinally, and with the other we press the board against the table. So, the main thing is that the location of the motor and the pressure point are not very close to the edge and do not create a tipping moment for the entire structure.

The plane adjacent to the cutting tool can be covered with metal or plastic to move massive board it was easier on a circular saw table.

The only drawback of this modification is the need to modify the controls: the start button and the hold lever. Most hand-held circular saws are equipped with a holding lever or trigger in addition to the start button. While you press the trigger against the handle of the saw with your fingers, the engine of the device is operating in normal mode. As soon as you release the trigger, the engine stops. A very necessary thing if, while cutting, you unexpectedly dropped a working circular saw from your hands.

Therefore, the first step is to make changes to the control system of the hand-held circular saw. To do this, the contacts on the button and trigger are connected to an external electrical package mounted on the body. Of course, such modifications can be performed for power tools for which the warranty period has long expired.

In rare cases, it becomes necessary to remove the instrument from the table and use it in its original manual form. In this case, instead of resoldering the contacts, the button and trigger are fixed with a clamp or simply wrapped with electrical tape, and power cord from the instrument is included in a carrying case with an on/off button.

The simplest option for remaking a circular saw is shown in the photo. For a tabletop circular saw, a box-shaped body is made from plywood. The tabletop with the circular saw installed is turned over and secured to the frame.

Making a guide ruler

When working with a circular saw, it is important to be able to not only cut a board, but also cut a plank or slatted strip of a given width exactly to size. To do this, a guide ruler is installed on the tabletop of the saw, which can be moved relative to the plane of the disk, and thereby select the width of the cut.

The ruler is made in the form of a steel angle. Using screws, the ruler can be relatively easily moved along the slots in the tabletop, and thereby change the size of the cut.

A simpler version of the ruler is made of pine boards, 40 mm wide and 20 cm long larger size table. Along the edges of the board, two furniture nuts are pressed into the lower part. metric thread. Using screws, L-shaped hooks are attached to the ends of the ruler. After installing the ruler, the hooks are tightened with screws, the hooks rise and firmly fix the guide bar on the tabletop.

Conclusion

Naturally, the capabilities of the commutator motor of a hand-held circular saw are not designed for heavy loads. On such a machine you can cut a couple of dozen strips, after which the engine must cool down. The total service life of the motor is 50-70 hours, after which it will be necessary to remove dust, clean the commutator of carbon deposits and replace the brushes. But, in any case, the capabilities of a circular saw are quite enough for household work.