The most economical toilet repair (cheap, fast and beautiful). Go

The toilet is the most important room in modern house. Thanks to the presence of sewerage and running water, our homes can be called truly comfortable, and life – convenient. But, of course, modern people strive not only for comfort, but also for aesthetics. After all, it is much more pleasant to use a beautiful, cozy and practical toilet. Everyone wants to put things in order in every room of the house, including the toilet. And this is not difficult to do, especially if you take into account the variety of products, materials for toilets, plumbing fixtures, furniture, etc.

Today, stores are happy to offer options for any opportunity and desire. Using modern materials and accessories, you can turn almost any creative idea into reality and make the toilet beautiful, neat, practical and modern.

With regard to the design of bathrooms and toilets, new fresh ideas appear every year; designers never bypass these important rooms for every home. Every season new and new solutions and materials for their implementation appear. It must be said that repairing a toilet with your own hands is a task quite feasible for every owner. If you have at least a little experience in construction matters and want to transform your bathroom, then you can safely begin to implement this task. Correctly selected materials and design solutions will help you cope with all tasks quickly and without extra costs.

In addition, renovation work in the toilet, as in the smallest room of the house, can be a preparation for the transformation of other rooms. In our article you will find useful tips, recommendations and descriptions of processes that will be useful to you when carrying out repair work in the toilet. We will help you figure out where to start, what materials to use, how to perform certain tasks, how to work with plumbing.

First of all, of course, you should decide what kind of repairs are required in the toilet. Perhaps you just want to update the finish, change the tiles, etc. Or do you need a major replacement of all plumbing, pipes, wiring, etc.? The answer to this question will determine the scope of further work and the order of its implementation.

If you decide that you need to thoroughly renovate your toilet, then you will have to keep in mind that such a renovation, even taking into account the modest size of the room, can be expensive. This, of course, applies to those cases when purchased quality materials, expensive durable plumbing, good pipes. You can, of course, seriously save money by refusing, for example, to replace pipes, using cheap finishing, low-grade plumbing fixtures. But is such a repair made from bad materials, your efforts and, in general, any investments? After all, high-quality, carefully selected materials, furniture, and accessories will ultimately pay for their cost many times over, as they will serve you for a long time, reliably and uninterruptedly, and also retain their original attractive appearance for many years.

Having once made a really good repair in the toilet with a high-quality replacement of all communications, you can forget about the problems associated with this room for a long time. Cheap repairs will cause constant frustration and disappointment. Poorly installed low-quality tiles will begin to fall off, lose their attractiveness, plumbing fixtures will turn yellow, and old pipes will leak. And you will again have to invest in another toilet renovation. Of course, each owner chooses independently what kind of repair he needs and how it should be done. In any case, a good solution would be to find a “golden mean” between economy and striving for the best, which will completely coincide with your tastes and will not be too heavy a blow to your wallet. Believe me, the modern range of materials, furniture, sanitary ware for the toilet and bathroom can satisfy every taste. Therefore, you will definitely find exactly what you need. And we will tell you what options are worth considering.

In any construction project The most important stage is the planning stage. First of all, you must determine for yourself what exactly you want to get as a result of the repair work. And then understand what exactly needs to be done for this. When outlining the range of tasks, immediately think about what you will need to implement them. It is necessary to have the necessary tools on hand to remove the old finish and create a new one, so that you can independently replace pipes and install plumbing, etc.

It is also necessary to take the acquisition of materials seriously. It is important to choose not only high-quality ones that are optimally suited to solve your problems, but also buy them in the required quantity. So that there is enough to complete the work, and there is a certain reserve in case of battle or other damage. If you purchase less material than you need, then, firstly, you will be faced with the need to drop everything and go for a new batch of material, and secondly, you risk not finding suitable material at all, since some materials in different batches have different shades, slightly different patterns, etc. Such inconsistencies can be very noticeable.

Therefore, material calculation is the most important stage in preparation for repairs. It is also worth familiarizing yourself with the work that you have to perform. Before you start doing anything, try to understand the process, understand its features, to make sure that you can really do everything you need on your own. Such preparation will save you from many troubles and problems that people often encounter during repairs. So, take a closer look at what you will need to repair your toilet.

You will need tools at the initial stage of repair, when you prepare the surfaces for further processing. Required kit toilet repair tools includes:

Hammer. It is useful for effectively and quickly removing concrete baseboards and chipping ceramic tiles. It is also necessary to drill holes for plumbing fixtures and furniture;
Notched trowel - used to distribute the adhesive composition on ceramic tiles;
Screwdriver. This tool will also provide indispensable assistance during disassembly. old furniture and assembling a new one. It is advisable to have a screwdriver with a solid set of bits. It can be replaced by a multifunctional screwdriver, but working with it is much slower than using a screwdriver;
Pipe cutter and special apparatus for welding plastic pipes. Major repairs to the toilet require replacement of communications. An excellent alternative to old metal pipes are new metal-plastic or plastic pipes. To install them you will need these tools;
A set of keys. Needed for plumbing installation;
Roulette, meter. Like everyone else construction works, repairs require precision. Therefore, it is impossible to do without measuring tools;
Rollers, brushes - I use them to perform priming, waterproofing, and finishing work;
Level, plumb line - allow you to control adherence to strict horizontal or vertical rows when finishing;
Other tools - file, hammer, hacksaw, chisels, chisels, etc. They may also be needed during the repair process. It is advisable to have them on hand in such case.

As you can see, the set of tools for repairing a toilet is not that big. Only a pipe welding machine or a hammer drill can cause difficulties. But today they can be easily purchased or even rented. So, if you wish, it will not be difficult for you to acquire everything you need for self-execution works

Since the toilet is a cramped room, it must be emptied as much as possible before starting repair work. If you leave the plumbing in the toilet, then, firstly, it will be terribly inconvenient for you to perform any actions, secondly, some tasks will simply be impossible to implement, and thirdly, in the process of work you will hopelessly ruin the plumbing with accidental blows or construction mixtures and other materials. Therefore, of course, the plumbing will have to be removed, even if you are not going to change it. But usually, when renovating a toilet, the plumbing fixtures are still replaced. And in this case, in general, there is no reason to leave the plumber in his place. But you need to remove it correctly, following the correct sequence of actions:

The first thing you need to do when starting to dismantle plumbing is to turn off the water supply. The hot and cold water taps are completely closed;
After this, you can begin removing the plumbing. You should start with the sink, if you have one. After this you will need to remove the toilet.

Here it is necessary to take into account an important point related to the main inconvenience caused by repairs in the toilet. If the residents of the house have a place to stay during the work, then that’s great. But if there is no opportunity to temporarily leave the house, then living in it without a toilet will be problematic and simply impossible. Therefore, it is recommended to remove the toilet last. Every day, before starting work, it will have to be dismantled, and after completion, it will have to be installed in place and connected to the sewer. This is not the most convenient option, but no other way to deal with this problem has yet been invented. However, this inconvenience serves as a specific incentive to complete all work as soon as possible so that the inhabitants of the house can return to normal life.

However, there is no urgent need to remove the toilet at the very beginning of repair work. This can only be done at the stage of pipe replacement. But whatever one may say, the original scheme of daily dismantling and returning the toilet to its place cannot be replaced by anything. After all, fulfill complete replacement pipes are unlikely to be completed in one day.

We bring to your attention the correct sequence for dismantling the sink:

After turning off the hot and cold water taps, you need to check whether there is really no water supply. To do this, open the taps and make sure that no water flows from them. Don't forget to drain the toilet tank. Otherwise, during the dismantling process, it may leak out and flood the entire floor, as well as the ceiling of your neighbors below;
The sink is secured to the wall using brackets. Additional support for the sink itself can be provided by a decorative pedestal, or “leg”. This element covers drain pipes and water supply pipes that extend to and from the sink. If your toilet has a sink with a pedestal, then you need to start dismantling it from this decorative “leg”. From below it should be connected to the floor. You need to find the fasteners and disconnect them. After this, the pedestal should easily separate from general design shells. Gently slide it out and put it away;
Now you can work on the pipes and connections. You need to place a basin under the bowl, since there is probably some water left in the pipes, and it will spill out when you disconnect the bowl from the pipes;
If you want to be on the safe side, first unscrew the storage cup from the siphon. Drain the water from it into the prepared basin, and then return the element to its place in the pipe system. Now you can remove the entire pipes under the sink. This pipe system is attached to the sink with a nut connection. Find the nut at the bottom with outside sink and unscrew it. You can work with your hands, without a key. Hold the siphon and carefully turn the nut counterclockwise. It should unwind without problems;
When you unscrew the nut, you can remove the pipe with the siphon with a hose going into the sewer pipe. The entire pipe system, disconnected from the sink, can now be disconnected from the sewer by simply removing the end of the hose. As a result, the sewer pipe will be open, and foul air may flow out of it. It is recommended to plug the hole with a rag or cover it with a lid;
Now it’s the turn to disconnect the hoses through which water flows into the sink taps. They will help you with this task spanners. Typically, the range of plumbing connections is from 19 to 30. But other keys may be needed. The hose fasteners are unscrewed and removed;
Now you can remove the bowl itself. If you are not going to change the sink during the renovation process, then carefully remove it from the room. Without removing faucets or taps. If you are planning a replacement, the faucets can be removed.

Thus, you have already gotten rid of one piece of furniture in the toilet. Now you can proceed to dismantling the toilet. Don't forget to take into account the situation of your household. In your case, it may be better to remove the toilet a little later. But tips on how to properly perform this operation will still be useful to you.

Removing a toilet involves removing the toilet itself and its tank. This happens as follows:

During the process of removing the toilet, all taps must also be turned off. Don't forget to drain the water from the tank. We warn you about this if suddenly the toilet is dismantled several days after you remove the sink;
After you are sure that the water supply has stopped, you need to disconnect the hose that supplies water from the water supply to the tank. It is removed from both the tank side and the pipe side;
If your toilet tank is attached to the wall, then these connections must be carefully removed and the tank removed. If the tank is attached directly to the base of the toilet, then you need to find the bolts connecting them and unscrew them. After this, carefully remove the tank and take it out of the toilet;
Now we need to work on the base. Disconnect the wide pipe that runs from the back bottom of the toilet to the drain. This pipe is called “corrugated”. It’s easy to remove: pull the corrugation off the toilet, and just pull it out of the sewer pipe. The corrugation should not be reused. It’s best to throw it away immediately and use a new one when installing plumbing. But if you install the toilet every day after finishing work, and remove it again the next day, then it makes sense to leave the old corrugation for now;
Now the toilet is held in place only by bolts screwed into the floor. Some models are mounted with studs or screws. Using a suitable wrench, unscrew these connections;
Now try to slightly rock the toilet and remove it. This can happen if it was installed only on fastenings, without the use of cement. If cement was used during installation, then most likely you will have to say goodbye to this toilet. Even after unscrewing the fastenings, you are unlikely to be able to simply move the toilet from its concrete base. Most likely, during the disconnection process, the plumbing will simply crack. And then you will have no choice but to buy and install new toilet. But repairs are done for the sake of renovation!
However, in some cases it is possible to save even the toilet that was previously standing on concrete mortar. If you plan to return the old toilet to its place, then carefully remove it and take it out of the repaired area so as not to accidentally split it or spoil it with various construction mixtures.

Now that the plumbing has been removed, you can begin preparing the walls, namely, removing the old finish, so that you can then carry out a fresh renovation of the toilet yourself. See photos and ideas for modern solutions in our article!

Before starting renovations, you need to remove old materials that cover all surfaces in the room. No matter how beautiful the bathroom floor is or how much you love the old tiles, when renovating, all this will have to be dismantled to make room for new, more beautiful ones. modern materials And stylish solutions. Old coatings, especially in places such as bathrooms, absorb unpleasant odors over time. And if you leave some surface with an old finish, then, firstly, it will look shabby against the background of the updated walls, and secondly, it can fill the room with unpleasant smell. So you will have to get rid of everything old.

The need for thorough cleaning of surfaces is also due to the fact that it is impossible to apply a primer to old finishing materials, which ensures a strong connection of adhesives with decorative materials. Finishes placed on old coatings will very quickly begin to crack, fall off and lose their attractive appearance. As a result, the next repair will not be long in coming.

It must be said that modern tools allow this stage of repair work to be completed relatively quickly. For example:

It is convenient to chip off ceramic tiles with a hammer drill equipped with a chisel blade;
A construction hair dryer will help you quickly get rid of old paint, which under the influence of heat will be easily removed with a spatula. Painted walls can also be treated grinder, equipped with a metal brush;
For simple and quick fix The surface of old plaster is moistened with water. When the coating gets wet, it can be easily removed with a spatula;
The least worrying thing is the wallpaper. True, they are not so often found in bathrooms. In order to quickly peel them off, you need to moisten the walls with water, wait a while, and then remove them with a spatula;
After treating the walls and ceiling, it is necessary to remove the coating from the floor. To do this, you can use a hammer drill, a chisel, or carry out all the work manually, depending on the type of decorative coating.

When all surfaces are cleared of their previous finish, large protrusions are removed from them and any remaining debris is removed. It is necessary to achieve maximum evenness of surfaces. To do this, you can once again process them with a grinding machine equipped with a metal brush.

After dismantling the old coverings, a lot of debris will accumulate in the room. Before you start next stage, the garbage must be taken out so that it does not get in the way. After this, all surfaces are cleaned again with a brush. You can use a vacuum cleaner to collect all the small particles of dust and dirt. After this, you can perform priming and waterproofing:

The primer is applied to the surface of the toilet for two purposes: firstly, due to it everything decorative coverings excellent adhesion to surfaces. This improves the quality of the finish, making it reliable and durable. Secondly, the antiseptic primer composition has an antifungal effect, that is, it prevents the appearance of mold. And this is essential for such a wet room as a toilet. The surfaces in the toilet must be primed twice. The first layer must dry completely before the second is applied;
When the second layer has dried, you can move on to the next stage. It involves waterproofing the floor. This is an optional step, but believe me, it will more than once save you from unpleasant situations and the need to sort things out with your neighbors. Waterproofing provides protection against moisture penetration, and for a room such as a toilet, this is especially important. There are many communications laid here - water supply, sewerage. And no one is immune from troubles in the form of a leaking pipe and other accidents. If you perform high-quality waterproofing in the toilet, you will protect your neighbors and yourself from the damage that such situations can cause.

Waterproofing can be done in different ways. But for the toilet, the optimal and most affordable option is coating waterproofing. It is distributed along the joints of the floor and walls in the form of strips, 150-180 mm wide.

Then a waterproofing tape is placed on the wet strips laid at the joints, which must be pressed into the coating. This element provides additional protection against leakage;
Now we need to wait for the waterproofing at the joints to dry. After this, you can distribute the coating over the entire floor area in a thin layer. Once this coat has dried, a second and third coat can be applied to ensure maximum protection. But each subsequent layer should be applied only to the well-dried previous one.

When the important task of waterproofing has been solved, you can move on to more pressing problems, namely, replacing pipes.

A thorough renovation of the toilet involves replacing communications. Given the state of the housing stock, such a measure is most often simply necessary. New pipes will allow you to enjoy good water pressure and clean water.

An excellent alternative to old metal pipes are modern metal-plastic pipes, or simply plastic. Their characteristics are excellent, so we recommend choosing them. But in order to install new pipes, you must first make room for them and remove the old ones. To do this, use a grinder or grinder with an appropriate attachment. Once the pipes are cut, they can be folded more compactly and discarded. Now that the space is free, you can begin to create a new wiring from clean and quality pipes. You can lay new communications in the same way as the old ones were installed, or you can choose more comfortable places.

If you do not know how to perform this type of work and feel unsure, then it is better not to take risks and hire a professional for this important part of the repair. Good master will help you choose the optimal wiring diagram and installation location for metering devices, taps, connections, etc.

Perfect time to replace pipes in an apartment - replacing the riser throughout the entire entrance. At this time, all owners of apartments located along the same riser have the opportunity to make new pipes in the bathroom and toilet and connect them in the most convenient way to the new common riser. But such luck doesn't happen often. Therefore, it is necessary to build on the conditions that exist today.

If you plan to use water meters and various water filters installed directly on the pipes, then the wiring can get quite complicated. If nothing like this is planned, then the wiring will be simple and easy to install. It is often more correct and convenient to install new pipes in the same places where the old ones were located. Consider the main wiring options:

The simplest wiring diagram is a tee. This is what can most often be found in toilets and bathrooms of apartments in high-rise buildings. This scheme assumes the presence of:
Pipes for hot and cold water for connection in the sink;
Hot and cold water pipes for connecting the bathtub;
Tees for forming branches from the main pipe;
Angles for turning pipes in the desired direction;
Check valves;
Connections for the washing machine and toilet tank;
Water meters;
Pressure reducers to stabilize it. This element is especially important if there are regular pressure changes;
Filters;
Shut-off valves.

The distribution is carried out from the central water supply risers. The weak point of such a distribution is the uneven supply of water when it is simultaneously used at different points.

Another type of wiring is collector wiring. Its difference lies in the fact that each water intake point has its own connection to the provided water supply collectors. Thanks to this, water is evenly distributed to all points, ensuring uniform pressure even when several points are operating simultaneously.

It is possible to carry out such wiring, but it will not be possible to replace the pipes only in the toilet. We will have to completely rebuild water communications throughout the apartment. You can install the collectors in the toilet, on the back wall, since, as a rule, the central risers are also located nearby. In this case, the back wall is covered with decorative panels.

The components of wiring with collectors are:

Valves that ensure the flow of water into the heated towel rail or directly into the distribution throughout the apartment;
Main tap for hot water;
Main tap for cold water;
Filters;
Metering devices;
Pressure reducer;
Collectors for cold and hot water, connected to each water intake point separately.

A storage type water heater can also be included in such a system. At the same time, when switching to its use, it will be necessary to turn off the tap leading to the internal wiring. Such a boiler will be convenient to hang in the toilet. However, there are certain nuances of this operation that you need to know before starting work.

While installing pipes, think about where exactly the sink will be installed, if, of course, it is provided in your bathroom.

This parameter must be provided at this stage, because this will allow achieving more aesthetics in the design of the toilet. For example, if the sink is located near the wall on which the manifold is located, then the connecting hoses that extend to the sink can be closed with the same box as the manifold itself.

If another place is provided for the sink, then in this case the hoses can also be covered with a box. But it would be more practical to recess them into the wall. This is not difficult to do, but you will have to make some noise, since for this you need to hollow out grooves in the wall - grooves in the concrete into which the pipes will lie. Only the fitting for connecting the mixer will remain outside.

This method of masking pipes fits perfectly into a bathroom renovation project that involves finishing the walls with ceramic tiles.

When you finish working with communications, all outlets, open fittings, or sockets should be carefully plugged with rags or covered with lids to prevent clogging of new pipes and debris from getting into them.

The sewer pipe running under the sink is also not a decoration for the toilet. Therefore, it is also recommended to hide it in a box, recess it into a wall or into the floor. This is also done by hollowing out a groove of the appropriate size and placing a pipe in it. The other end of this pipe is connected to a sewer pipe that runs from the toilet to the riser.

At the same stage, it is worth deciding on the complete replacement of the sewer riser. Of course, in an ideal situation, it is advisable to solve this problem, especially if the condition of the current pipe leaves much to be desired. But do it in separate apartment can be quite problematic. It is best to come to an agreement with your neighbors and do this work together, replacing the entire riser at once.

At this point, the work related to the pipes is completed. Now you can safely move on to creating beauty, convenience and comfort. The first step is to finish with the pipes. No matter how new and neat they are, you still want to cover them with something more aesthetically pleasing. We will talk about ways to disguise communications.

The best way to disguise those pipes that cannot be embedded in the walls, this is to make a decorative box for them. Let's consider the technology of its device:

The basis of the box is a frame that is framed by sewer and water pipes. Then they will be attached to this frame plasterboard sheets.

You can choose wooden beams as the material for the frame. Stronger and reliable design can be built from metal profiles. But for a small box, a wooden base will be quite sufficient. The frame must be perfectly flat and precisely adjusted in size. Therefore, all its parts must be carefully measured, carefully cut and connected to each other. Control horizons and verticals when installing the frame using a level. The elements are fastened with self-tapping screws.

The frame is installed at the bottom of the wall if all the distribution pipes are located there. For the sewerage system, another frame, vertical, is constructed.

In some cases, it is necessary to build a frame on the entire wall. At the same time, it is extremely important not to forget to make a window through which you can inspect and repair hidden communications. Such a window should be in any box, regardless of its size. The absence of such a window will force you to disassemble the entire box at the first accident. Also keep in mind that you will have to regularly take readings from the meters, so you should have access to them too.

Inspection windows are not the only thing that needs to be provided when creating a pipe box. Another important aspect is ventilation. Very often the vent in toilets apartment buildings located in the far wall near the ceiling. Under no circumstances should this hole be closed! If you plan to install the box in this place, then for vent you need to make a separate box in which an exhaust fan will be installed after finishing work is completed.
When all the frames have found their places, they can be sheathed with the selected material. In this case, one must focus on the ability of the material to accept decorative finishing. The best option is plasterboard sheets. But in some cases it is quite possible to use plywood sheets. Sheathing fastenings are made using appropriate fasteners;
If you have chosen plasterboard as the sheathing for the frame, then after installing the sheets, do not forget to treat the joints in a special way. They are strengthened with serpyanka and puttied. The caps should also be puttied with a self-tapping screw so that rust from them does not appear on the top finish;
Now we need to think about the door for the inspection holes. Consider what material you will make the doors from and what material you will generally use to finish the box. This will help you determine when to install the door frame and door hardware.

if you plan to cover the box with wallpaper, then select furniture hinges. In this case, the door is installed on the frame before it is finished;
if you do not hang the door, but install blinds in the opening, then they can be installed after finishing the frame;
if the box is lined with PVC panels, then the door can be made from the same. In this case, the door is installed on the frame frame slats;
You can also design a special frame for the door to fit the size of the holes left. This frame is inserted into the box after finishing is completed. It is sheathed along the perimeter with baguette slats.

When the box is completely sheathed and puttied, its surface must be coated with a primer. Wait until the first coat dries and apply the primer again. Now, while the box is drying, you can move on to finishing other surfaces.

A striking example, how to repair a toilet, photo. You can implement all the solutions presented in our article with your own hands. You can use any materials suitable for rooms with high humidity levels. It is desirable that they be resistant to various negative factors: chemicals, detergents, fungus, etc. Based on these requirements, as optimal material For finishing the toilet, you can offer ceramic tiles, plaster with primer impregnation, washable wallpaper, PVC sheets.

It is advisable to choose high-quality tiles for the floor. If such traditional version If you are not satisfied, we recommend that you pay attention to a self-leveling epoxy-based screed, otherwise known as 3D floors. This coating allows you to create multi-layered images with a noticeable 3D effect. But this option cannot be called affordable, nor can it be implemented independently. Therefore, we propose to take a closer look at more affordable and traditional methods of finishing surfaces in the toilet.

Features of using ceramic tiles when decorating a toilet

Ceramic tiles are an ideal option for finishing any rooms with high humidity levels. Performance characteristics make this material optimal for use in bathrooms. In addition, modern manufacturers offer a wide variety of colors and textures, which allows you to create truly original combinations and compositions. But to achieve an impeccable result, it is not enough to choose high-quality tiles. It needs to be placed well. Let's take a closer look at the features of this process:

The surface on which you plan to lay the tiles must be level. If the walls or floor in the toilet do not meet this requirement, then leveling with plasterboard or putty will be required.

A faster and easier leveling option is drywall. Besides other advantages, this method is also the cleanest. Plasterboard sheets can be glued to walls or mounted on dowels. Do not forget about the need to treat sheet joints in a special way and putty the fastener heads. We talked about how to do this correctly when we examined in detail the design of a pipe box.

If the unevenness on the walls is pronounced, then it may be necessary to construct a frame to secure the plasterboard sheets.

But in relation to a toilet, the use of sheets on a frame cannot be called very successful, since the frame will reduce the area of the already small room. Therefore, instead of a full-fledged frame, you can make a thin sheathing of slats 15-20 mm thick.

Afterwards, it must be primed and wait for it to dry. After this, you can begin laying the tiles.

You have to start from the bottom. During the installation process, do not forget to control the horizontal and vertical rows using a level. Special plastic crosses inserted into the seams help to leave an equal distance between the tiles.

Sometimes individual elements need to be trimmed. This must be done with a tile cutter or grinder with a special diamond wheel;
The connection of the tiles to the surface is carried out using a special composition. It is spread on the wall with a notched trowel, and then the tile is pressed against it;
When all the rows are laid out, you need to wait for the seams to dry, and then treat them with grout, which is selected according to the color scheme to match the overall design;
Once completed, you can start working on the floor. It also needs to be leveled. It is most convenient to use a self-leveling mixture in this situation. You only need a little bit of it for the toilet, it won’t cost much, and the result will be impeccable.

Laying tiles is one of the main stages of repairing a toilet with your own hands; the video from our article will help you cope with it perfectly!

Features of using PVC panels in toilet finishing

The use of PVC panels is simpler and affordable option, in comparison with the use of tiles. This material is easier to work with, its installation is much faster, and its cost is lower. No dirty work is required. Anyone can attach panels to walls. The main point that must be taken into account is strict adherence to the evenness of each row.

Under plastic sheathing The frame is also installed. It levels out wall unevenness and allows the panels to be mounted as evenly as possible.

PVC panels do not have a long service life. At the very least, it is significantly shorter than the service life of high-quality ceramic tiles. But once done, the sheathing will allow you to change the top sheathing as often as necessary, and this will be very easy to do.

Let's take a closer look at the process of covering walls with PVC panels:

Let's start by installing the frame on the ceiling. Don't forget to leave space for lighting fixtures. It can be Spotlights or one ceiling lamp.
In practice, the lathing is performed simultaneously on both the ceiling and the walls.
To create a frame on the ceiling, a metal profile or beam is used. When the sheathing is attached to the flow, electrical communications are carried out through it to the installation sites of lighting fixtures. Naturally, when performing work, the cables must be de-energized;
Corner moldings are installed at the junction of the ceiling and the walls. The grooves located in them will be the place where the wall panels are secured;
holes are cut in the ceiling panels for lighting fixtures;
after this, the panels begin to be fixed to the ceiling sheathing. Start performing the task from the wall. When the ceiling is sheathed, sheathing of the walls begins.
A frame is installed on the walls, as well as on the ceiling. It is attached to the surface with dowels. For horizontal installation of PVC panels, the frame must be vertical, for vertical installation - horizontal.

Since the toilet is a small room, the frame must be made to save space. Its slats in thickness should not exceed 20 mm. When installing the sheathing, it must be immediately leveled, and linings must be made in places of future fastenings.

The frame posts are installed in increments of 400-500 mm.

The slats are secured to the surface with dowels. The holes for them are drilled directly through the rail and the wall, then a plastic dowel is driven into the hole, and a self-tapping screw is driven into it.

The starter molding is attached to the rail near the floor. It will hold the ends of the panels;
panels located near the ceiling take their places in the corner molding, which were mounted when covering the ceiling;
corner molding is also mounted along the vertical corner parts to connect the outer panels of two walls;
now the panels need to be cut according to the height from the bottom molding to the top;
installation of panels begins from the corner. The first element is inserted into the grooves with three sides: from above, from below, from the end, directed into the corner. It is very important to install this panel as evenly as possible, since it determines the evenness of the entire row;
There are several ways to attach panels to the frame. You can use nails by driving them into hidden parts of the panels. Another way is to use special clamps that are put on the narrow side of the panel groove and connected to the rail. Such clamps allow you to partially disassemble the stacking of panels. There are also clips designed for mounting panels. They are easy to use, but in this case a regular frame will not work. You will have to additionally mount guides with which these clips will be connected.

Features of using washable wallpaper when decorating a toilet

It would seem that wallpaper is not the most suitable choice, if you started repairing a toilet with your own hands. The videos in our article may convince you otherwise! Covering the toilet with washable wallpaper is one of the simplest and most affordable solutions. If you approach its implementation carefully and carefully, the result will be quite good.

Of course, this finish lasts much less than ceramic tiles. But its price is also more affordable. Therefore, you can change washable wallpaper in the toilet at least every year.

The walls also need to be leveled before gluing. As with ceramic tiles, plasterboard sheets can be used. The wallpaper will look great on them.

Wallpaper strips must be glued end to end. Carefulness and precision are especially important when working with wallpaper that has a pronounced pattern.

This finish is suitable not only for walls, but also for ceilings. When choosing colors, keep in mind that bright hues contribute to the visual expansion of the room, and dark ones, on the contrary, make it visually closer.

The wallpaper will be completed with floor and ceiling skirting boards, matched in color.

Once all surfaces have received a decent finish, you can put the plumbing in place.

First, the toilet is installed. The work is carried out in several stages:

The installation site is carefully marked. To do this, you need to place the toilet in its future place and outline it with a pencil or marker, and you also need to highlight the mounting points;
Now you can put the toilet aside and arm yourself with a hammer drill. Holes for fasteners are drilled at the marked points in the floor. Anchors or dowels are driven into them;
The toilet takes its place and is fixed with fasteners. The bolt caps are covered with special decorative overlays made of plastic, which usually come with the toilet;
Now the toilet needs to be connected to the sewer and water supply. To do this, a corrugation is put on the bottom hole of the toilet and connected to the sewer pipe;
Next, the tank is connected. The connection method is determined by the toilet model:

The tank can be installed directly on the back platform of the toilet. Then the toilet and tank must have appropriate holes for fastening, and the kit must contain special fasteners, seals, etc.;
if there are no such holes, then the tank must be attached to the wall and connected to the toilet through a pipe supplying water.

Thus, the tank is attached in accordance with the instructions included in the specific model. Assembly is carried out in the same way drain mechanism. After this, you need to connect the tank to the water supply system. To do this, use a special hose that stretches from the tank to a special fitting on the pipe;
After this, the gaps between the floor and the base of the toilet are treated with sealant.

Once the toilet is in place, you can begin installing the sink. When choosing one model or another, consider the possibility of hiding connections and pipes in a pedestal or cabinet. Installation of the sink is carried out as follows:

First you need to prepare the sink for installation. And this involves installing and connecting connecting hoses. After installation, these manipulations will be much more difficult. You can immediately install the top elements drain system to the siphon;
After preparation, you need to attach the sink to the wall. Typically, anchors or brackets are used for this, depending on the model;
Now you need to connect flexible hoses from the faucet to the pipe fittings. At this stage it is recommended to install taps on the fittings to be able to turn off the water only at this point. If the taps are installed, the hoses are connected to their connections;
After this, the siphon is installed in place and connected to the hose leading to the sewer. Then all connections are checked for leaks;
Now you can install a pedestal or nightstand.

When all manipulations with plumbing are completed, it is necessary to check the systems for leaks. There should be no drops of water on the taps and pipes during a test run.

Self-repair of a toilet is quite within the capabilities of those who really dream of bringing their ideas to life and have at least modest experience in the construction business. We hope that our article will be a good assistant for you in this matter!

Materials for work:

tiles in two matching shades for the walls (top and bottom), transitional narrow tiles, and floor tiles. The number of tiles is selected in proportion to the area of the walls and floor.
distribution flexible pipes;
toilet;
LED light bulbs;
plastic panels for the ceiling and metal profiles for them;
with a set of copper wires;
plytonite and grout;
door, door frame and locking device;
primer and a set of screws with dowels.

Repair of a small toilet in an apartment

Toilet repair small size is one of the easiest repairs you can do yourself. The only thing you should not try to do yourself is to cut threads on the supply stationary pipes. Here you need to use the services of a plumbing specialist who will shut off the access to water and be able to do high-quality thread cutting. This is a responsible job; to perform it, you will need a special, expensive tool, which not every user has.

Preparing the room involves completely cleaning it. All old tiles from the floor and walls, as well as old plumbing, are completely removed. The surfaces are cleaned with sandpaper, cleaned of dust and a layer of primer is applied to them.

The next step is to apply plitonite. This is a very good, durable solution, which can be applied to perfectly level the walls. After this, the ceiling and lighting are installed. The work is not difficult in principle, but it requires painstaking and careful attention. Then the tiles are glued sequentially, starting from the lower layers and ending with the upper ones. Each layer must be allowed to dry thoroughly. While gluing the tiles, its plane is adjusted with a rubber-coated mallet. After gluing the tiles, you need to install the hood and connect it to the light connector so that when the light is turned on, the fan will automatically start.

After the tiles have dried, they are grouted decoratively and a presentable surface is prepared. appearance. Using anchors, the toilet is screwed to the floor and the supply pipes are connected. All are installed decorative elements necessary to give greater functionality to the room.

August 5, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

If you decide to master the technology of finishing work, then repairing a toilet with your own hands will be an excellent training for you: a small area of the room will significantly reduce time and financial costs, and at the same time you will be able to practice performing a variety of operations.

Of course, toilet renovation and design can be implemented according to the most different schemes, but in this article I will give the most common option, which takes into account preparation for finishing, tiling the floor and walls, installing a suspended ceiling, and installing plumbing.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the room

So, initially we are dealing with a small room: for example, in series 137 of standard apartments, the dimensions of the toilet are 120x85 cm. Therefore, we need to implement the most compact design option, using materials that are affordable and not too difficult to work with.

When deciding where to start renovating a toilet, it is worth assessing its original condition. And if it becomes obvious that a complete reconstruction is required to bring the premises into decent shape, first of all we will remove old finishing. For this:

We dismantle the toilet, disconnecting it from sewer riser and water supply, and then removing it from the stand that secures the product to the floor.
We inspect the condition of the pipes, and if they require replacement, we dismantle them too.
We remove the old finish - tiles, wallpaper, paint, etc. To clean surfaces, we use either a hammer drill or a drill with an attachment in the form of a stiff wire brush.

When a complete reconstruction is planned, we also dismantle the old wiring. If the wires are laid in deep grooves, then they do not need to be removed - just turn off the power to the branch and cut the conductors close to the wall.
After removal construction waste We treat surfaces with an antiseptic. This will allow us to avoid the appearance of fungi and bacteria after finishing is completed.

Laying communications

At this stage, we need to lay all the communications that are responsible for the functioning of the bathroom. This includes sewer pipes, water supply pipes and electrical wiring.

In a standard panel house, very often it is in the toilet that vertical risers with cold and hot water. In order not to carry out a complex reconstruction, this is where it is worth laying the distribution unit, hiding all the pipe bends in a special cabinet or box.

When renovating a toilet, I usually do this:

First, I lay a sewer pipe connecting the toilet to the riser. Usually this segment does not differ in significant length, so it can be laid with minimum slope towards the drain. I select the pipe for direct connection so that it matches the configuration of the toilet outlet - straight or inclined.
At the same stage, I lay drain pipes connecting the sewer riser to the bathroom and. I fix the pipes on the wall with clamps, making sure that the slope is maintained at about 2 cm per linear meter.

I cut a tee into the cold water supply riser, to which I connect the outlet for the drain tank. If you plan to install a washbasin in the bathroom (such options are implemented in larger areas), I make two separate outlets with cold and hot water to connect to the mixer. They should be made hidden, so you will have to cut separate grooves for the pipes.

Consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If you need it (even if you don’t plan to install it right now), immediately lay the piping for its installation.

I lay the wiring for installing the socket for the water heater in a groove. For lighting along the ceiling, I run a cable in a corrugated plastic channel, which I fix with wire hangers.

From wooden beam, impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a metal profile I form a box to mask risers, pipework and other elements. It is worth sheathing it immediately before finishing - this way we will not damage the gypsum board during other work.

Actually, this is where the preparatory operations end. After this we move on to finishing.

Toilet finishing

Ceiling

When thinking about how to renovate a toilet, we first need to approve the order of finishing work.

Craftsmen practice a variety of schemes, but I still prefer to move from top to bottom - this minimizes the likelihood of staining or damaging the “finishing” area, and I don’t have to waste time masking already finished surfaces with film, cloth, newspapers, etc.

It is based on these considerations that I prefer to start with ceiling repairs:

Along the perimeter of the room in the upper part, I beat out an even line at a distance of about 50 - 70 mm from the ceiling.

The indentation depends on the dimensions of the recessed luminaires. If you plan to use small lamps, then 40 mm may be enough.

Along the line I install on the walls either a starting profile made of galvanized steel or a wooden beam.
I attach guides to the ceiling using metal hangers: I also make them either from timber or from a metal profile. All parts are fixed to the load-bearing surfaces using dowels for express installation.
After completing work on the frame, I bring the wires to the places where they will be installed.

To the profile fixed around the perimeter, I attach a special ceiling plinth with groove for plastic panels. To attach to wood, I use galvanized staples, which I hammer in using a construction stapler.
The most inexpensive, but at the same time practical option is covering the ceiling with plastic panels. I cut the PVC lining to size, and then install it on the ceiling: the ends need to be inserted into the grooves of the plinth, and the edges of the locks must be secured to the frame beams using a stapler.

In the chosen place I do it in plastic panel a hole through which I bring out the wires to connect the lamp. I usually install the device itself at the very end of the repair, so for lighting a temporary structure is used from an incandescent lamp with a socket taped to the wires with electrical tape.

Walls

After completing the work on the ceiling, I move on to the walls. The best option here would be tiling: the small area significantly reduces purchasing costs and minimizes labor costs, but the finish is hygienic and durable.

The sequence of work in this case will be as follows:

I check the walls with a level and, if necessary, do a rough leveling. For high-quality cladding, it is important that differences in plane do not exceed 5 mm per 1 m - anything less can be compensated for by varying the thickness of the adhesive layer.

When leveling, it is advisable to first try to knock down all the protrusions with a hammer drill, and then sand them concrete surfaces. The thing is that plastering surfaces, especially in a room like a bathroom, is difficult, time-consuming and expensive.

I treat the walls with an antiseptic primer: it not only improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition, but also prevents the formation of fungal colonies under the tiles.
I cover the frame of the box with pipes with moisture-resistant plasterboard.
I soak the tiles in water for about 2-3 hours. This trick allows you to significantly improve the adhesion to the glue, which is important, especially if you do not have enough experience and work slowly.

I'm cooking glue mixture, diluting the dry component in cool water. I mix the glue thoroughly using a drill attachment: this needs to be done at least twice so that there are no lumps.

Now let's start with the cladding:

I take a level and mark the walls, drawing lines along the bottom edge of each row. I make indents between the rows: the thicker the tile, the wider the seam can be.
Using a grater, I apply a layer of glue to the wall. Using the serrated edge of the tool, I form grooves to evenly distribute the composition.
It is important not to apply glue to too large an area. Focus on the speed of work: the surface of the adhesive composition should not dry out!
According to the markings, I apply the tiles to the wall, press them and level them. Using a spatula, carefully remove any protruding excess glue.
To maintain the same thickness of all seams, I install plastic spacer crosses.

Wall tiles are laid in rows, from top to bottom. To get a beautiful pattern, you can arrange the elements offset - in this case, the tiles in each next row are shifted by 1/2 of the width. The accuracy of installation is checked using a level and plumb line; if necessary, the position of the tile is adjusted and adhesive is added/removed.

After finishing the cladding, I give the surfaces 12 hours for the glue to polymerize, and then I grout the seams. Grout is a paste that is used to fill the gaps between the tiles: this way we will not only improve the appearance of the room, but also protect the base from moisture penetration.

When the grout dries, I'll be left with the last one, clean cosmetic stage: Wash the tiles and wipe them with a clean, dry cloth. If we were careful enough and promptly removed excess glue and grout from the surface, then this task will not require any significant effort.

Floor

Before I repair the toilet floor with my own hands, I usually assess its condition. In most cases, restoration of the waterproofing layer is required, therefore the first part of the work is floor covering carried out before finishing the walls.

To begin with, I once again clean the base from dust and debris and impregnate it with a penetrating primer.
Then I apply a waterproofing mastic based on bitumen or liquid rubber. This layer protects the ceiling and the rooms underneath from leaks, so it is worth forming a so-called “trough” here - covering not only the floor, but also the walls with waterproofing to a height of about 15 cm.

I pour a leveling screed up to 50 mm thick on top of the waterproofing. For filling I use self-leveling compounds with quick hardening: their price is higher than the standard one cement-sand mixture, but they also save work time, and significantly.

After the screed has dried (in best case scenario it will take three to four days, at worst, if we saved on materials, we will have to wait two to three weeks) I treat the floor surface with soil.
For work I choose only floor tiles: they are both stronger and less slippery. Attempts to use cheaper wall tiles will lead to the fact that after a couple of years the floor will have to be rebuilt.

Using a trowel, I apply cement-based tile adhesive to the base. I evenly distribute the adhesive composition over a surface of approximately 1 m2 and begin cladding.
I lay the tiles either in rows or alternating them in accordance with the planned pattern, for example, tiling in black and white.
As in the case of wall decoration, I maintain the width of the gaps using spacer inserts.

After tiling, I let the glue dry, grout the seams, dry the grout, wash and wipe the floor.

Installation and connection of plumbing

The toilet repair itself ends here, but we still have to install the equipment. There are no special difficulties expected here, but you will have to work hard, especially if in addition to the toilet you also need a washstand:

We install the toilet on the floor in the selected location, using either a special rubber lining or a wooden board impregnated with a moisture-proof compound.
We make marks at the location of the mounting holes, remove the toilet bowl and use a hammer drill to drill sockets to secure the product.

We hammer dowels into the sockets, install the toilet in place and fix it with anchor bolts. In this case, we either insert the toilet outlet directly into the sewer pipe or connect it to it using a flexible corrugation.

We install a tank on top, which we secure to the base with screws and cap nuts.
Attach a hose to the side or bottom of the tank with cold water.
We place the sink against the wall and mark the mounting points.
According to the markings, we drill holes into which, as in the case of the toilet, we hammer plastic dowels.

Next, we either attach brackets to the wall on which we install the washbasin, or we fix the sink itself to the base using anchors with cap nuts.
We connect a siphon to the sink drain, which we connect with a flexible corrugation to the sewer pipe.
We install the mixer, connecting flexible hoses with cold and hot water to it.
After completing all these manipulations, it will be possible to check the functionality of the system and check for leaks.
Then we take the prepared recessed lamps, connect the wires to their terminals and install the lamps in the holes on the ceiling.

Our toilet is ready and ready to use!

Cost of consumables

To answer the question of how much a bathroom renovation will cost, you need to know its area, what materials will be used, and whether we will do the finishing ourselves or turn to specialists. However, even with the most accurate calculations, the estimate tends to increase, so it is worth putting into the budget about 30% more funds than what is calculated.

To make budgeting easier, I advise you to use a table containing approximate prices for materials used in bathroom renovations. Of course, this information is for reference only (prices in online stores were taken as a basis), but it gives a full idea of the order of numbers:

Material	Unit	Cost, rubles
Waterproofing mastic	5 kg	1100 — 1600
Tile adhesive CM 9	25 kg	250 — 450
Grout for tiles	5 kg	600 – 1200
Penetrating primer with antiseptic	5 l	250 — 500
Self-leveling floor mixture	25 kg	280 – 750
Budget tiles for walls	m2	45 — 90
Mid-price wall tiles	m2	250 -500
Ceramic floor tiles	m2	250 – 2500
Acrylic paint for interior works	5 kg	200 – 500
Profile for drywall	panel 3 m	50 — 150
Drywall hanger	PC.	5 — 25
Wooden beam for frame	panel 6 m	80 — 200
PVC lining for ceiling cladding	m2	150 -250
Sewer pipe for external works 110 mm	1 linear m	125 — 200
Sewer pipe for interior work 50 mm	1 linear m	75 — 150
Metal-plastic water pipe 16 mm	1 linear m	70 — 120
Crimping fitting for metal-plastic pipe	PC.	250 — 500
Mixer tap with short spout	PC.	1500 — 2200
Inexpensive washbasin Santeri	PC.	900
Compact toilet Santek	PC.	3100 — 3500

In addition, when calculating how to make repairs in the bathroom, we need to take into account that we will need other little things like fasteners, sealant, gaskets, etc. So the budget margin mentioned above will definitely not be superfluous.

Conclusion

Toilet repair is a kind of testing ground for the skills of a novice builder, finisher, plumber and electrician. By focusing on the recommendations given, tips in the comments and videos in this article, you will be able to lay the foundations of your skills, and in the future successfully cope with much more complex projects.

August 5, 2016

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Quickly and inexpensively repair a toilet with your own hands + photo ideas. To obtain an excellent result, skill alone is not enough - theoretical knowledge is also required. If you want to master the technology of finishing work, then doing a toilet renovation yourself will be an excellent training, since the small area of the room will help save both time and money, and you will also have the opportunity to practice various types works

Naturally, the design and renovation of a toilet can be carried out according to a variety of plans, but in this article you will find the simplest and most popular option, which takes into account the preparation of the room for renovation, cladding with cladding, installation of a suspended ceiling structure, and installation of plumbing.

So, we are dealing in a small room, for example, 1.2 * 0.85 meters. Therefore, we need to carry out the most compact design option, and at the same time use materials that are affordable and not the most difficult to work with. When making a choice about where exactly to start working in the toilet, you should assess the condition of the room, and if it becomes clear that a complete reconstruction is needed to bring the room into an acceptable appearance, first of all you will need to remove the old finish.

For this:

Laying communications

At this stage, you should start laying all the communications that will be responsible for the operation of the sanitary unit. This includes sewer pipes, as well as water supply pipes and electrical wires.

Note, that in typical panel buildings, very often it is in the toilet that there are vertical pipes with hot and cold water. In order not to carry out a complete reconstruction, it is in this place that the distribution unit should be laid, and all pipe bends should be hidden in a special cabinet in a box.

When doing renovations in a toilet with your own hands using photo ideas, you should:

Important! You should consider in advance whether you need a boiler. If necessary, lay out the pipework in advance for its further installation.

The wiring for installing sockets for the boiler should also be laid in a groove. For lighting on the ceiling, we run the cable in a plastic corrugated channel, which can be fixed with wire hangers.
A box can be formed from a timber impregnated with an antiseptic or a metal profile in order to disguise risers, pipe routing and other elements. It is necessary to sheathe the box only before finishing, so as not to damage the gypsum board during work. This is where the preparation ends.