Electrical wiring diagram for your home. How to wire your home yourself

Just 15 - 20 years ago, the load on the power grid was relatively small, but today there is a large number of household appliances provoked a significant increase in loads. Old wires are not always able to withstand heavy loads and over time there is a need to replace them. Laying electrical wiring in a house or apartment is a task that requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. First of all, this concerns knowledge of electrical wiring rules, the ability to read and create wiring diagrams, as well as electrical installation skills. Of course, you can do the wiring yourself, but to do this you must adhere to the rules and recommendations outlined below.

Electrical wiring rules

All construction activities and Construction Materials are strictly regulated by a set of rules and requirements - SNiP and GOST. As for the installation of electrical wiring and everything related to electricity, you should pay attention to the Electrical Installation Rules (abbreviated PUE). This document describes what and how to do when working with electrical equipment. And if we want to lay electrical wiring, then we will need to study it, especially the part that relates to installation and selection of electrical equipment. Below are the basic rules that should be followed when installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment:

• key electrical wiring elements such as distribution boxes, meters, sockets and switches must be easily accessible;
• Switches are installed at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor. The switches themselves are located in places where opened door does not prevent access to them. This means that if the door opens to the right, the switch is on the left side and vice versa. The wire to the switches is laid from top to bottom;
• It is recommended to install sockets at a height of 50 - 80 cm from the floor. This approach is dictated by flood safety. Also, sockets are installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from gas and electric stoves, as well as heating radiators, pipes and other grounded objects. The wire to the sockets is laid from bottom to top;
• the number of sockets in the room must correspond to 1 pc. for 6 m2. The kitchen is an exception. It is equipped with as many sockets as necessary to connect household appliances. Installation of sockets in the toilet is prohibited. For sockets in the bathroom, a separate transformer is installed outside;
• wiring inside or outside the walls is carried out only vertically or horizontally, and the installation location is displayed on the wiring plan;
• wires are laid at a certain distance from pipes, ceilings, etc. For horizontal ones, a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the floor beams and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling is required. The height from the floor is 15 - 20 cm. Vertical wires are placed at a distance of more than 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. Distance from gas pipes must be at least 40 cm;
• When laying external or hidden wiring, you must ensure that it does not come into contact with metal parts building structures;
• when laying several parallel wires, the distance between them must be at least 3 mm or each wire must be hidden in a protective box or corrugation;
• The wiring and connection of wires is carried out inside special distribution boxes. The connection points are carefully isolated. Connection of copper and aluminum wire among themselves is strictly prohibited;
• grounding and neutral wires are secured to the devices with a bolted connection.

Electrical wiring design and diagram

Electrical wiring work begins with the creation of a project and wiring diagram. This document is the basis for future wiring of the house. Creating a project and diagram is quite a serious matter and it is better to entrust it to experienced specialists. The reason is simple - the safety of those living in a house or apartment depends on it. Project creation services will cost a certain amount, but it's worth it.

Those who are accustomed to doing everything with their own hands will have to, adhering to the rules described above, and also having studied the basics of electrical engineering, independently make a drawing and calculate the load on the network. There are no particular difficulties in this, especially if there is at least some understanding of what it is electricity, and what are the consequences of careless handling of it. The first thing you need is symbols. They are shown in the photo below:

Using them, we make a drawing of the apartment and mark lighting points, installation locations for switches and sockets. How many and where they are installed is described above in the rules. The main task of such a diagram is to indicate the location of installation of devices and routing of wires. When creating an electrical wiring diagram, it is important to think in advance where, how much and what kind of household appliances will be installed.

The next step in creating the diagram will be to route the wires to the connection points on the diagram. It is necessary to dwell on this point in more detail. The reason is the type of wiring and connection. There are several such types - parallel, sequential and mixed. The latter is the most attractive due to the economical use of materials and maximum efficiency. To facilitate wiring, all connection points are divided into several groups:

• lighting for the kitchen, hallway and living rooms;
• toilet and bathroom lighting;
• power supply for sockets in living rooms and corridors;
• power supply for kitchen outlets;
• power supply socket for electric stove.

The above example is just one of many options for lighting groups. The main thing to understand is that if you group the connection points, the amount of materials used is reduced and the circuit itself is simplified.

Important! To simplify wiring to sockets, the wires can be laid under the floor. Wires for overhead lighting are laid inside the floor slabs. These two methods are good to use if you don’t want to scratch the walls. In the diagram, such wiring is marked with a dotted line.

The electrical wiring project also indicates the calculation of the expected current in the network and the materials used. The calculation is performed using the formula:

I=P/U;

where P is the total power of all devices used (Watt), U is the network voltage (Volts).

For example, a 2 kW kettle, 10 60 W light bulbs, a 1 kW microwave, a 400 W refrigerator. Current strength is 220 Volts. As a result (2000+(10x60)+1000+400)/220=16.5 Amperes.

In practice, the current strength in the network for modern apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all materials are selected. First of all, this concerns the cross-section of electrical wiring. To make your choice easier, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable:

The table shows the maximum exact values, and since the current strength can fluctuate quite often, a small margin will be required for the wire or cable itself. Therefore, it is recommended that all wiring in an apartment or house be made from the following materials:

• wire VVG-5*6 (five cores and cross-section 6 mm2) is used in houses with three-phase power supply to connect the lighting panel to the main panel;
• wire VVG-2*6 (two cores and cross-section 6 mm2) is used in houses with two-phase power supply to connect the lighting panel to the main panel;
• wire VVG-3*2.5 (three cores and cross-section 2.5 mm2) is used for most of the wiring from the lighting panel to the distribution boxes and from them to the sockets;
• wire VVG-3*1.5 (three cores and cross-section 1.5 mm2) is used for wiring from distribution boxes to lighting points and switches;
• wire VVG-3*4 (three cores and cross-section 4 mm2) is used for electric stoves.

To find out the exact length of the wire, you will have to run around the house a little with a tape measure, and add another 3 - 4 meters of reserve to the result obtained. All wires are connected to the lighting panel, which is installed at the entrance. Circuit breakers are installed in the panel. Typically these are 16 A and 20 A RCDs. The former are used for lighting and switches, the latter for sockets. For an electric stove, a separate 32 A RCD is installed, but if the power of the stove exceeds 7 kW, then a 63 A RCD is installed.

Now you need to calculate how many sockets and distribution boxes you need. Everything is quite simple here. Just look at the diagram and make a simple calculation. In addition to the materials described above, you will need various consumables, such as electrical tape and PPE caps for connecting wires, as well as pipes, cable ducts or boxes for electrical wiring, and socket boxes.

Electrical wiring installation

There is nothing overly complicated about electrical wiring installation work. The main thing during installation is to adhere to safety regulations and follow the instructions. All work can be done alone. Tools for installation will require a tester, a hammer drill or grinder, a drill or screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers, and a Phillips and slotted screwdriver. It won't be amiss laser level. Since without it it is quite difficult to make vertical and horizontal markings.

Important! When carrying out repairs and replacing wiring in an old house or apartment with hidden wiring, you must first find and, if necessary, remove the old wires. For these purposes, an electrical wiring sensor is used.

Marking and preparing channels for electrical wiring

We begin installation with markings. To do this, use a marker or pencil to place a mark on the wall where the wire will be laid. At the same time, we follow the rules for placing wires. The next step is to mark the installation locations lighting fixtures, sockets and switches and lighting panel.

Important! In new houses, a special niche is provided for the lighting panel. In the old ones, such a shield is simply hung on the wall.

Having finished with the markings, we proceed either to install the wiring in an open way, or to groove the walls for hidden wiring. First, using a hammer drill and a special bit, holes are cut for installing sockets, switches and distribution boxes. For the wires themselves, grooves are made using a grinder or a hammer drill. In any case, there will be a lot of dust and dirt. The depth of the groove of the groove should be about 20 mm, and the width should be such that all the wires fit into the groove without obstruction.

As for the ceiling, there are several options for solving the issue of placing and securing the wiring. The first is that if the ceiling is suspended or suspended, then all the wiring is simply fixed to the ceiling. The second is to make a shallow groove for wiring. Third, the wiring is hidden in the ceiling. The first two options are extremely simple to implement. But for the third one you will have to make some explanations. IN panel houses ceilings with internal voids are used; it is enough to make two holes and stretch the wires inside the ceiling.

Having finished with the gating, we move on to last stage preparation for wiring installation. Wires must be pulled through the walls to bring them into the room. Therefore, you will have to use a hammer drill to punch holes. Usually such holes are made in the corner of the room. We also make a hole for running the wire from the distribution panel to the lighting panel. Having finished gating the walls, we begin installation.

Installation of open electrical wiring

We begin the installation by installing the lighting panel. If a special niche was created for it, then we place it there; if not, then we simply hang it on the wall. We install an RCD inside the shield. Their number depends on the number of lighting groups. The assembled and ready-to-connect panel looks like this: there are neutral terminals at the top, grounding terminals at the bottom, and automatic circuit breakers are installed between the terminals.

Now we insert wire VVG-5*6 or VVG-2*6 inside. On the switchboard side, the electrical wiring is connected by an electrician, so for now we will leave it unconnected. Inside the lighting panel, the input wire is connected as follows: blue wire we connect to zero, the white wire to the top contact of the RCD, and the yellow wire with a green stripe to ground. We connect the RCD circuit breakers to each other in series at the top using a jumper from the white wire. Now we move on to open wiring.

Along the previously outlined lines we fix boxes or cable channels for electrical wiring. Often, with open wiring, they try to place the cable channels themselves near the baseboard or vice versa, almost under the ceiling. We secure the wiring box using self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm. We make the first and last hole in the box at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. To do this, we drill holes in the wall using a hammer drill, drive a dowel inside and secure the cable channel with self-tapping screws.

One more distinctive feature open wiring are sockets, switches and distribution boxes. All of them are hung on the wall, instead of being built inside. Therefore, the next step is to install them in place. All you have to do is place them on the wall, mark the mounting locations, drill the holes and secure them in place.

Next we proceed to wiring the wires. We start by laying the main line and from the sockets to the lighting panel. As already noted, we use wire VVG-3*2.5 for this. For convenience, we start from the connection point towards the panel. At the end of the wire we hang a label indicating what kind of wire it is and where it comes from. Next, we lay the VVG-3*1.5 wires from switches and lighting fixtures to the distribution boxes.

Inside the distribution boxes, we connect the wires using PPE or carefully insulate them. Inside the lighting panel, the main wire VVG-3*2.5 is connected as follows: brown or red wire - phase, connected to the bottom of the RCD, blue - zero, connected to the zero bus at the top, yellow with a green stripe - grounding to the bus at the bottom. Using a tester, we “ring” all the wires to eliminate possible errors. If everything is in order, we call an electrician and connect to the distribution panel.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

Concealed electrical wiring is quite simple. The only significant difference from the open one is the way the wires are hidden from view. Otherwise the actions are almost the same. First, we install the lighting panel and RCD circuit breakers, after which we start and connect the input cable from the side of the distribution panel. We also leave it unconnected. An electrician will do this. Next, we install distribution boxes and socket boxes inside the made niches.

Now let's move on to wiring. First we lay the main line from VVG-3*2.5 wire. If it was planned, then we lay the wires to the sockets in the floor. To do this, we insert the VVG-3*2.5 wire into a pipe for electrical wiring or a special corrugation and lay it to the point where the wire exits to the sockets. There we place the wire inside the groove and insert it into the socket box. The next step will be to lay the VVG-3*1.5 wire from the switches and lighting points to the junction boxes, where they are connected to the main wire. We isolate all connections with PPE or electrical tape.

At the end, we “call” the entire network using a tester for possible errors and connect to the lighting panel. The connection method is similar to that described for open wiring. Upon completion, we seal the grooves with gypsum putty and invite an electrician to connect it to the distribution panel.

Electrical installation in a house or apartment for experienced craftsman- the matter is quite easy. But for those who are not well versed in electrical engineering, they should take the help of experienced professionals from start to finish. This, of course, will cost money, but this way you can protect yourself from mistakes that could lead to a fire.

Before you start electric installation work First, a wiring diagram is drawn up. Having a clear understanding and electrical circuit diagram at hand makes wiring much easier.

Why is a wiring diagram necessary?

Well, first of all, a diagram is needed to compile a list of necessary Supplies. That is, having a diagram at hand, the length of the wire, the cross-section of the wire in individual sections, required amount sockets and switches, distribution boxes and places where they are marked, etc.

Also, a wiring diagram is necessary to determine the installation location and location of power wiring elements, such as: distribution board, circuit breakers, metering devices (meters), input of power wires and cables.

An example of drawing up an electrical wiring diagram in a private house.

Meals in a private home usually come at overhead line 0.4 kV. From the overhead line support, a phase wire L and a combined neutral protective and working PEN (single-phase power) come to the input electrical panel.

Figure 1. Input of power supply via overhead line.

Recently, energy supply organizations have been installing meters on the street, in the incoming electrical panel (previously, meters were installed inside the house). Therefore, an electric meter and an input circuit breaker are installed in the input electrical panel (you can also install an input selective-action RCD).

From the input panel, the supply wire or cable is laid to the internal electrical panel located directly inside the house.

The power supply to the house begins from this internal electrical panel. To make the power supply more reliable, consumers are divided into groups. Let's consider an example of the main consumer groups:

1. 1. Lighting;
2. 2. Rosette group;
3. 3. Power group (boiler, washing machine, boiler, etc.);
4. 4. Household needs (extensions, garage, basement, etc.).

Separate protection devices (automatic machines, ouzo) are installed in the internal electrical panel for each group of consumers.

Also for compiling wiring diagrams in a private house you need to have a plan for the house itself. Knowing the house plan drawing, you can superficially display the wiring diagram.

Fig. 3. Layout diagram of the electrical wiring of a private house.

From the above material, a fundamental wiring diagram in a private house.

Ri 4. Electrical diagram house wiring.

If the mansion is large, then you can divide consumers separately for each floor, half of the house or each room separately.

If there is three-phase power supply to the house?

If not single-phase, but three-phase power supplies the house, then in this case three phases (L1, L2, L3) and a combined neutral protective and working wire PEN come from the support to the input electrical panel.

Apartment wiring diagram

Electrical wiring diagrams in the apartment and at home have no significant differences between each other. The difference between them is that the power supply to the apartment begins with floor panel, since the power supply is supplied not through an overhead line, but a cable line.

Electricity supply to the apartment begins at staircase, where the distribution panel with the meter is located. Installed here general switch, from which two independent lines usually go.

Each line is protected by an automatic batch switch or fuse (the so-called plug). Thus, if a short circuit occurs in one line, the apartment will not be completely de-energized.

Apartment wiring can be open or hidden. For open wiring, SHVVP or NYM wires can be used. Hidden wiring is divided into replaceable and non-replaceable. The wires of the replaceable wiring are laid inside vinyl-plastic pipes, and the non-replaceable wiring is laid directly under the layer of plaster.

Previously in Soviet time accounting and protection devices (meters, automatic machines, traffic jams) of the apartment were located only on the staircase. Nowadays, many electricians are reworking the wiring diagram in the apartment in such a way that an internal electrical panel is also installed in the apartment. From here comes the distribution of individual electrical wiring lines among the rooms.

Before drawing up an electrical wiring diagram in an apartment, you need to draw up a plan for the marking and location of future electrical appliances. That is, where the TV, refrigerator, computer, etc. will be installed.

This is necessary in order to know where and in what quantity to place sockets and light switches during installation and over time, when the repair is completed, the need to use devices such as carriers and tees does not arise.

Consider the usual two-room apartment. We divide the electrical wiring in it into the following main groups of consumers:

• - lighting (hallway, rooms, kitchen);
• - sockets (rooms);
• - bathroom, toilet (lighting);
• - kitchen (sockets);

Electrical wiring diagram in the apartment similar to the circuit of a private house with single-phase power supply.

Fig 6. Layout of electrical wiring in the apartment

Also, I would like to note that for bathrooms there are requirements for the location of switches - their presence is not allowed inside these rooms. In addition, plug sockets are not allowed in the bathroom.

An exception is the socket for connecting an electric razor, but its connection to the network must be done through a transformer.

What should be the electrical wiring diagram in a private house under construction? How to properly distribute wires throughout all rooms? I'll tell you what wiring sections are needed modern electrical appliances, and how to provide protection against electric shock and short circuits. And as a bonus, I’ll clearly explain how to connect a voltage stabilizer and generator to your home panel.

Required elements

Let's start with the main thing - with protective elements. The electrical panel in your home should include:

Image	Element
	General switch or circuit breaker at the input, breaking the phase and neutral wires.
	Device protective shutdown (RCD), which is triggered when current leaks through damaged insulation, when a person or pet touches the terminals or wires. Its sensitivity should allow it to respond to a leakage current of 30 mA.
	Slot machines for certain consumer groups (sockets in a separate room, lighting, boiler, electric stove, etc.). Circuit breaker is placed on the phase wire and is triggered when the rated current is exceeded. Its task is to prevent overheating and fire of the wiring.

The tripping current of the circuit breaker must minimally exceed the calculated peak load on the wiring section. Let's say, for a circuit with a peak power consumption of 5 kW, it is worth choosing a 25 ampere machine (which at a voltage of 220 volts corresponds to a power of 25x220 = 5500 W).

Grounding is provided with a separate terminal block for all sockets and metal housings of electrical appliances. The ground wire must not be interrupted by switches or connectors. The source of ground can be the body of the shield (if there is ground at the input) or electrodes buried in the ground.

Accessories

The following are often connected to the panel:

• Voltage regulator, providing stable parameters of the current supplying household appliances in case of serious deviations from the nominal value at the input.

It makes sense to install a stabilizer only on separate groups the most food-sensitive consumers (this includes televisions, computers, audio equipment, refrigerators, etc.). Powerful heating devices (boilers and electric stoves) operate over a wide voltage range and, when it drops, only proportionally reduce power consumption.

• Generator, allowing with minimal costs time to switch to autonomous power supply when the lights are turned off.

What will be the wiring diagram in each of these cases?

Stabilizer

The stabilizer is connected to the phase wire break. Zero remains common with the meter and consumers. The stabilizer housing is connected to a common ground.

Generator

The actual power switching is ensured by a reversing switch having three operating positions:

1. The consumer is powered from the input;
2. The consumer is disconnected from both current sources;
3. The consumer is powered by the generator.

The signal lamp (LS-47) is needed to indicate the mains voltage. It will allow you to notice the moment the light turns on without the help of measuring instruments (multimeter or indicator screwdriver).

Normative documents

How to install wiring in a house taking into account all the requirements of regulatory documentation? The source of information for us will be SNiP 31-02 (design of engineering systems of cottages) and the manual of the Ministry of Construction of Russia, which supplements its requirements, released in 1997 and again regulating the construction of engineering systems of single-family houses.

For the convenience of the reader, I will bring together the relevant and most important points of both documents for us.

• Installation of electrical wiring in a private house must be carried out with a grounding loop. The ground must be separate: the neutral wire cannot be used as it;

• Power limit determined by the owner of the house. Minimum values- 5.5 kW in a house without electric heating systems and electric stoves and 8 kW if they are available. If total area houses exceed 60 square meters, the minimum input power increases by one percent for each square meter areas over 60;

The local administration may limit maximum power depending on the state of local power grids and the capabilities of the substation.

• Open wiring can be performed directly on walls and other building structures, as well as in boxes and baseboards with cable ducts. In this case, open wires without protective tubes or boxes are mounted on building construction at a height of at least 2 meters;
• Hidden wiring Can be mounted at any height in ceilings and walls. We allow its installation in structures made of flammable materials;

• For wiring installation Only copper wires can be used. With the same cross-section as aluminum ones, they provide almost twice as low resistivity, which means less heating at higher currents;
• Wires and cables in protective sheaths can be passed through walls without bushings and pipes. Output of the unsheathed input cable through external walls performed in a plastic tube;

The pipe is installed with a slope towards the street to prevent leakage through the wire into the house.

• Electrical wiring in the house should not experience mechanical stress in places of branches and connections. All wire connections are insulated, and the thickness of the insulation should not be less than the thickness of the insulation of a solid wire;
• At connection points hidden wiring to sockets, junction boxes, switches and lamps, the wire must have at least a 5-centimeter reserve length. The supply will be useful when replacing fittings or repairing wiring;
• If the wiring goes from a dry room to a damp one(shower room, toilet, etc.), all connections are installed from the dry room side. There should be no junction boxes in the bathroom;
• Recommended installation height sockets - 80-100 cm, switches - 1.5 meters from the floor level;

In my opinion, it is much more convenient to stick to European standards: 90 cm for switches and 25 cm for sockets. Low-lying sockets will allow you to get rid of household appliance wires hanging untidy on the walls, and switches will be accessible even to a child who has recently started walking.

• At the dacha made of timber or logs, in frame house and on wooden In the attic, do-it-yourself electrical wiring is done in a metal pipe (steel, copper or corrugated stainless steel). Even if a short circuit occurs, it will not cause a fire: before the pipe has time to heat up to a dangerous temperature, the machine will turn off the power to the circuit;

• Switches are set to phase. Zero does not open;
• When distributing one group line to several outlets, the ground branches off to each of them(either in distribution box, or in the socket housing). It is impossible to connect the ground in series to several sockets;

• Metal enclosures in damp areas lamps and other electrical appliances must be grounded. If the lamp is hung on a metal hook, it must be insulated from the body (for example, with a plastic shell) so that in the event of a breakdown metal parts the lamp does not receive a phase on the entire fitting reinforced concrete structures Houses;

However: a device with a two-pin plug belonging to electrical safety class zero can be connected to an outlet without grounding, only to zero and phase. In this case, the installation of electrical wiring must be carried out with an RCD on the corresponding line: it will turn off the power in the event of leaks accompanying electric shock to a person or animal.

• If the sockets in the apartment or house are installed at a height accessible to children, they need to be protected with lids or plugs;

• Hidden wiring should not be placed on chimneys and heating panels with an operating temperature above 35 degrees: vinyl insulation of the wiring has limited heat resistance and softens when heated;
• Wires must not cross. The reason is the same: during peak currents, the insulation at the intersection may overheat;
• Switches placed at the entrance to the room, from the side of the door handle.

A number of document requirements specifically stipulate electrical installation in rooms with high humidity:

1. If possible, wiring should be routed to adjacent, dry rooms. The lamps are placed on the wall closest to the input;
2. For lighting with incandescent lamps, lamps with housings made of dielectric materials (plastic, ceramics, etc.) should be used.

What should the wire cross-section be? SNiP 31-02 specifies only lower limits:

• Copper group lines - not less than 1 mm2;
• Aluminum group lines - not less than 2.5 mm2;
• Copper risers and circuits to which the meter is connected are at least 2.5 mm2;
• The same risers and chains, but aluminum - at least 4 square millimeters.

First, examples of a cottage wiring diagram.

Now - several practical advice regarding how to do electrical wiring in the house.

Wires

I recommend making connections to the meter and input using single-wire copper wire VVG with a cross-section of at least 4 square millimeters per core with an input power of up to 10 kW and 6 mm2 with an input power of 10 - 15 kW.

In other areas the following are used:

• For wiring sockets - VVG 3x2.5 mm2;
• For lighting distribution - VVG 3x1.5 mm2.

It is better not to use stranded wire: its price is slightly higher than that of single-wire wire, and it provides a smaller area of ​​electrical contact on the terminal blocks.

In general, the cross-section of hidden wiring is calculated as 1 square millimeter of copper per 8 amperes of peak current, open - 1 mm 2 per 10 A.

Connections

Do-it-yourself electricians are most easily mounted on brass blocks: they reliably connect the ends of the wires and, unlike sleeves and welding, leave the connection detachable. If necessary, you can connect an additional socket to the distribution box at any time.

Wiring

In my opinion, it is most convenient to lay the wiring in a baseboard with a cable duct. Why? Here are the arguments:

• Installation of wiring in this case practically does not involve dirty work. In the worst case, you will have to drill a series of holes for dowel-screws securing the baseboard;
• The wiring remains accessible for repair, and there is no need to open the walls to replace a section of it;
• If you need to connect an additional outlet, this will not require great effort: you just need to strip the wire and install three blocks on it (zero, ground and phase), making a branch.

Conclusion

Now you know what the wiring diagram might look like and how to install it correctly. As always, Additional materials The video in this article will bring you to your attention. I look forward to your comments and additions to it. Good luck, comrades!

The further we go, the more humanity uses nanotechnology and electronics. Modern man, began to use more and more technology that simplifies life. Nowadays it is almost impossible to find a house where there are no electrical appliances, household appliances, and all this in large quantities. Thus, the electrical wiring can sometimes be very overstressed. To protect your hearth from any adverse consequences and ensure your comfort, you must take care of high-quality wiring in a private home, electricity in general.

How to do wiring in a house with your own hands

Conducting electricity is not an easy task, but if you follow certain rules and have a little knowledge and ingenuity, that is, there are very good chances that you will be able to do everything yourself.
And if you do not dare to do such work alone, but want to entrust the job to a master, then the knowledge that you will gain from our article will help you correctly assess the quality of the work of the employee you called and notice shortcomings in time. This advantage will help you save your nerves, money and avoid unnecessary problems.

Key conditions that must be observed when doing wiring in the house with your own hands.
In the instructions for use of the equipment there are Rules for Electrical Installation Devices (ELD), which must be studied before starting work. There are a number of key rules necessary to perform high-quality work with electrical wiring:

• The electrical installation should be located at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor;
• Sockets, switches, distribution boxes must be freely accessible to use the equipment;
• Access should not be limited by an opening door;
• Cables should not pass below, but above;
• According to safety regulations, sockets must be installed higher than 50 cm, but up to 80 cm from the floor. And also at a distance of 50 cm from gas and electric stoves;
• The placement of sockets should be: 1 piece per 6 m2, based on this you can calculate the allowed number of devices. This rule does not apply to the kitchen; here the placement of sockets depends on the number household appliances. The bathroom needs a separate transformer, which will be located outside the room so as not to overload the electrical network;
• Cables should run horizontally and vertically, but not diagonally, avoid all kinds of bends and irregularities - this is very important so as not to damage the wire during installation or perforation;
• If the cable runs vertically, its distance from the doorway and window should be more than 10 cm. If the cable is run horizontally, then the distance from the ceilings and cornices should be from 5 cm to 10 cm, and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. It is recommended to install the cable at a distance of more than 40 cm from gas pipes;
• Building structures made of metal should be as non-contiguous as possible;
• Special boxes are used to connect cables and for wiring. The cables that have been connected must be insulated. Copper and aluminum wires should not be connected - it is dangerous.

Scheme of distribution of electrical wiring at places of use.

DIY wiring in the house

The scheme with grouping by consumers can be arbitrary. It is used to avoid power overload, saves material costs and makes the wiring layout simpler.
Electrical wiring diagram, which is designed for wooden house or dacha, differs from the apartment plan. In the apartment plan, the cable connection starts from the floor board. Electricity in a private home requires connection from an overhead line or from an external distributor.

Measure the current.

In order to correctly select a machine and a cable with a cross-section that will withstand the load of the electrical network and will not cause unfavorable outcomes, you need to measure the current strength in the electrical network. This is very important rule For correct implementation electricity.

There is a certain formula that allows you to calculate permissible load current, you need: the total power of household appliances (W), divided by the network voltage (V).

For example: we have: 8 lamps of 60 W, an electric kettle with a power of 1600 W, a refrigerator with a power of 350 W and an electric oven with a power of 1200 W. Mains voltage = 220V. Current strength: ((8*60))+ 1600+350+1200/220=16.5A. Typically, a house does not consume more than 25A current.

Selecting the size of the network cable for electrical distribution.

One of the most important conditions Wiring is the choice of the size of the cable cross-section for distributing electricity. If the cable is chosen incorrectly, this may not have the best outcome, minimum cable overheating, maximum short circuit and fire. Therefore, the integrity of your home directly depends on this choice.

There is a certain table with which you can determine the cable size that is suitable for wiring.

house wiring diagram

If we take the same case and we have a current strength of 16.5A, the wiring consists of copper wires and it is closed, you need a cable of at least 2 mm2. If we take 25A, then the cable will be 4 mm2. The cable varies depending on the distribution group and the load for which it will be designed.

Since the current strength often fluctuates, it is also necessary to take into account the cross-sectional reserve, and the table shows extremely accurate values. That is, in order to accurately measure the cable size, you need to measure the entire distance and add 4 meters for a reserve cross-section.

The residual current device is mounted in the lighting panel near the front door, and the wires are turned on. The standard RCD for switches and lights is 16 amps, and outlets should be rated at 20 amps. For an electric stove, you need an RCD with a higher power of 32 amperes and is placed separately.

Electrical installation.

If all the above rules and actions were done correctly, then doing electrical wiring in your house yourself will not be difficult. It is important to take into account safety precautions and adhere to all conditions and advice.

Before wiring, you need to go through several steps:

• Marking. First, we determine the place where the cable will pass and mark it with a marker. Then you need to mark the places where the planned lamps, protection panel and sockets will be located.
• We use a hammer drill to make special holes in the wall if we plan to hide the wiring or the cable will be on outside using crown attachments. A hammer drill or wall chaser can make holes in the wall about 20 mm deep for smooth movement of wiring.

To hide a cable on the ceiling, which can ruin the whole view, you can fix it to the ceiling. And for the beauty of the ceiling, decorate it with a decorative ceiling.

If you make holes in the ceilings with the entrance and exit and stretch them through them, you can get rid of the unsightly appearance of the cable.

After using a hammer drill to make a hole in the corner of the room through which the wiring will pass, we proceed to installation.

To begin with, a switchboard is installed, to which an RCD is connected. The shield has the following inscriptions: at the top are the zero terminals, at the bottom are the grounding terminals, and in between are the circuit breakers.

Afterwards the cable is pulled, but it is forbidden to connect it yourself, but it should only be installed by qualified specialist, and no one else. Several cables of a certain color are connected to the shutdown panel and the RCD: a blue wire from above to 0, at the same time to the RCD from above - white, to grounding - yellow with a green stripe.

If the wiring is on the outside of the wall, how do you do the electrical installation?

Carry out electrical installation of wiring that is located on outside walls, you need in order:

• Using the marks that were made earlier, we fix the cable channels, secure everything at the ends, 5-10 cm with self-tapping screws at a distance of 50 cm from each other.
• We fix sockets, switches and distribution boxes into the wall. Since they look like they are hanging on the walls, it is better to secure them by first drilling the place of fixation.
• We run a cable from the sockets to the disconnect panel, starting from the connection points using VVG - 2 * 2.5 wires.
• Then, a wire is laid from the lamps and switches to the VVG-3*1.5 cable.

To cover the ends of the wires, special PPE caps are used, which are determined by the color of the clamp or WAGO type terminals.

VVG cable 3*2.5 in the switchboard is attached with a phase (should be brown or red) at the RCD, cable of blue color attached to the ground from above, and the yellow wire with a green stripe to the bottom. At the end, a test ringing of the circuit is done, and if everything is done correctly, then you can invite a qualified specialist to install the cable to the distribution board.

Safety measures for wiring in a private residential building.

It is especially important to pay attention to compliance with safety measures, conducting electricity in private residential buildings, especially if the house is made of wood.

To carry out electrical wiring for such a case, additional measures must be taken, namely:

• The wiring must be made of self-extinguishing materials, professionally rewound with electrical tape.
• The distribution board and installation box must be made of metal.
• Sealed connections.
• Wiring located on the outside of the wall uses porcelain insulators for mounting. The most important thing is that the wires do not touch the walls and ceilings.
• Cables that are built into walls should be routed not just through holes in the wall, but through metal pipes, boxes made of steel and always with grounding. To make the electrical installation look neat and not spoil the appearance of the rooms, you can use plastic corrugations and boxes, which will be covered with plaster on top - this is both safe and beautiful.

To comply with all safety measures, you need to install an RCD that, in the event of a current leak or short circuit, will automatically knock out the machine, thereby turning it off.

DIY wiring in the house video

A few words to conclude:

How to do wiring in a house with your own hands, first you are recommended to study this issue and evaluate your strengths. In principle, the task is not the most difficult, and it can be completed if you have ingenuity and attentiveness. And when you finish your work, you will be proud of yourself.

It is easier for a qualified specialist to do this work, but even he can make mistakes. And you, looking at his work from the outside, can evaluate the master’s abilities, or notice a mistake in time, in timely prevention of problems. You will be able to evaluate his actions and the quality of the work performed, but you will know what you are paying for.

The following two tabs change content below.

First, let's deal with general rules electrical wiring laying. Electric wires and cables must be laid strictly vertically or strictly horizontally with rotation angles of 90°. The diagram below clearly shows the wiring diagram with all the recommended indentations, as well as the recommended installation height of switches and sockets:

It’s worth noting right away that wiring installation can be done in two ways: openly or hidden:

Open wiring is the simplest and most inexpensive solution, also one of the advantages of this type electrical wiring, in addition to the simplicity and low cost of installation, is the convenience of its repair, but the main disadvantage of such a laying is considered to be a violation appearance interior of the room. Typically, such wiring is carried out in one of three ways: in a box (cable channel), on brackets, corrugation (or metal hose), or in PVC pipes.

Examples of open wiring in the box and on brackets:

Wiring in a box Wiring on brackets

Gasket in the box gasket on brackets in corrugation

Installation hidden electrical wiring is a more labor-intensive process in which electrical wiring hides under the wall cladding, or fits into grooves:

The main advantage of this method of laying electrical wiring is the preservation of the appearance of the interior, and in addition it provides good protection electrical wiring from mechanical damage (although, of course, you can still drill it or pierce it with a nail while hanging a picture). The disadvantages are the complexity of installation and the difficulty of repairing such wiring; in addition, this installation method is usually more expensive.

Sockets, switches, junction boxes and electrical panels also have 2 types of design: for open and for internal (hidden) installation:

1. Installation of open electrical wiring

STAGE 1 (general) Drawing up an installation diagram

This stage is common when laying both hidden and open wiring

We decide on the installation locations for sockets, switches, lamps and electrical panel (if needed). For example, let’s draw up the following diagram for installing electrical wiring in one of the rooms (for clarity, all our electrical wiring will be located on one wall):

Ready! We determined where we want to install sockets, a switch, where the lamp will be located, as well as where we will install the electrical panel and drew up a wiring diagram. Now you can proceed directly to its installation.

STAGE 2 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of electrical equipment

To begin with, let’s stipulate that the most common methods of laying open wiring are laying in a box and laying on brackets, so these are the ones we will consider:

Video editing:

installation open wiring step - 2

STAGE 3 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of boxes (cable channels), laying cables.

Now that everything is in place, we can begin installing the box (cable channel) along the intended electrical wiring lines.

A cable channel is a plastic box in which electrical wiring is laid. It consists of a base and a cover:

There are boxes different sizes and flowers, and, as a rule, have standard length- 2 meters. For installation, the boxes are cut into pieces of the required length (usually the box is cut with a hacksaw), for example, as can be seen from our installation diagram below, we need to cut the box into the following sections:

Sections 2 meters long - 2 pcs.

Sections 1.5 meters long - 3 pcs.

Sections 0.5 meters long - 2 pcs.

Sections 0.3 meters long - 1 piece

Sections 0.2 meters long - 1 piece

In total, the total length of the box we need is 10 meters (i.e., you can buy 5 strips of the box, 2 meters each).

After the boxes are cut, you can begin to install them; they are mounted very simply: you need to open the box cover and screw the base of the box to the wall using self-tapping screws (if the wall is made of wood or plasterboard) or plastic dowel nails (if the wall is brick , concrete, etc.). After the box is attached to the wall, the cable is laid in it and the box is closed with a lid. The angles of rotation of the box can be closed with special plastic corners, you can also make corners by cutting the box at 45°:

Video of box installation (the video is not the best, but we couldn’t find anything better on the Internet, perhaps in the future we will shoot our own video on this topic, but for now we have to use what we have):

installation of open electrical wiring step - 3

If you decide to install electrical wiring using brackets, then instead of installing the box, after installing sockets, switches and everything else, you immediately lay the cable, which is attached to the wall with brackets. Brackets (clips) for fastening cables come in plastic of different sizes, designed for specific types and sizes of cables:

The staples can also be universal:

IMPORTANT! When laying wiring on brackets, remember that in this way it is prohibited to attach ordinary cables to combustible bases (for example, to wooden wall), for this it is necessary to use special flame-retardant cables (non-flammable).

STAGE 4 (Installation of open wiring) Assembling the circuit.

Now that everything is installed and the cables have been routed along the walls, you can begin connecting sockets, switches, lamps and assembling the wires in the junction boxes.

1. Installation of hidden electrical wiring

STAGE 1 Drawing up an installation diagram

This stage is common when installing both hidden and open wiring and has already been described above.

STAGE 2 (Installation of hidden wiring) Drilling holes in the wall

If you are installing hidden electrical wiring, then after drawing up the installation diagram (STAGE 1), you need to start drilling holes in the wall with a diameter of 72 mm (standard diameter for socket boxes) in the places where we will install switches, sockets and junction boxes. Drilling holes is usually done with a hammer drill (or drill) with a special bit for concrete:

STAGE 3 (Installation of hidden wiring) Wall chipping

After the holes are ready along the planned electrical wiring lines, we tap the wall. According to the technology, this is done as follows: First, 2 parallel cuts are made in the concrete wall using a special wall chaser, after which the concrete between these cuts is knocked out with a hammer drill:

However, there are other ways to make a groove; instead of a wall chaser, you can use an angular grinder(grinder), or you can even start drilling grooves (but this method is only suitable if you need to lay a maximum of a couple of meters of cable, because the method is too labor-intensive.):

Video of the groove execution:

STAGE 4 (Installation of hidden wiring) Cable laying

Now it is necessary to lay the cable in the prepared grooves so that the cable does not fall out of the groove during installation; it must be fixed there; this can be done either by gripping the cable with gypsum plaster, because it hardens quickly, either with the help of a special bracket:

Video of cable laying in a groove:

STEP 5 (Installation of hidden wiring) Installation of junction boxes

The time has come to secure the mounting boxes in the holes drilled during the second stage (the boxes in which our switches and sockets will be installed in the future). It is better to mount mounting boxes on gypsum plaster(Tip: gypsum dries very quickly, so it’s better to dilute in small portions, because there is a risk that while you are installing one socket box, all your remaining mortar will turn into stone).

In order to secure installation box(socket box) you need:

• Clean our hole from dust and concrete fragments, and then wet the surface of the hole.
• Apply plaster to the hole, with the expectation that after installing the socket box into the hole, there will be no spaces left around the edges unfilled with plaster, but without fanaticism.
• We insert the socket box into the hole, having previously broken out the hatch on top for introducing the cable, it turned out that this hatch should be opposite the fine.
• We press the box down until it is flush with the wall.
• After the solution has dried, remove excess plaster with a spatula.