Plastering a house made of aerated concrete. How is aerated concrete walls plastered indoors? How to make a plaster coating as durable as possible

Aerated concrete has long been loved by private developers for its excellent performance characteristics and very attractive cost. However, before you start building from it, you need to study all the pitfalls in this matter in order to build a high-quality and durable structure. So, when planning finishing, it is important to know what can be used to plaster aerated concrete inside a house, and what materials are prohibited. What causes such restrictions and what finishing is ideal for gas silicate blocks will be discussed below.

Features of finishing aerated concrete walls

Before you dive headfirst into the question finishing walls, you first need to understand the structure of aerated blocks, which will completely determine the quality of your future home.

The main way to obtain this cellular material is to introduce into the composition concrete mortar special additives that, when reacting, form air bubbles that tend to escape. They simply dot the aerated concrete body not only with voids, but also with thin channels, forming a surface reminiscent of natural pumice in its texture. This structure has excellent positive properties with correct final processing of blocks:

high sound absorption coefficient;
good level of thermal insulation;
“breathable” walls create a unique indoor microclimate that retains warmth in winter period years and coolness even in the most extreme heat;
the porous structure of aerated concrete is not susceptible to the formation and maintenance of colonies of fungal and other microorganisms, which, as a result of their vital activity, destroy walls.

Porous structure of aerated concrete

But despite these wonderful performance characteristics, aerated concrete also has disadvantages due to its structure:

the porous structure is subject to increased water absorption, which can lead to rapid destruction of the blocks;
products that have the highest density, and therefore strength, are not resistant to mechanical stress, leading to chipping and cracks;
the heterogeneous structure, which retains heat so well, is very sensitive to wind. Unprotected bare aerated concrete walls are strongly blown through, and it is cold inside them, even despite proper organized system heating.

Taking into account all these negative circumstances, we can come to the conclusion that aerated concrete walls require mandatory finishing. But it needs to be done as competently as possible so as not to disrupt the microcirculation inside the walls, which can lead to destructive processes.

Vapor permeability

The porous structure, which has been discussed so much, has one more property - good vapor permeability, which is the key to the durability of any structure made of cellular concrete.

In the process of life, people release into the atmosphere a large number of all kinds of moisture. Just imagine how the air is saturated with it when ironing, washing, drying clothes, cooking or taking a bath. Of course, part of the generated vapors is removed using artificial and natural ventilation, but the main volume is on the walls. In its pure form without finishing, aerated concrete perfectly allows moisture to pass through without retaining it inside its body.

It’s another matter if there is a façade and internal lining, and she is required for this wall material. Therefore, both finishing options should complement each other, maximizing the natural removal of moisture.

For example, a ventilated façade system was chosen as the exterior finishing. In this case, the provided gap for ventilation does not disturb the natural balance of moisture in the aerated concrete wall, leaving complete freedom for vapor to escape outside. Under such circumstances, you can use any plaster for aerated concrete.

Ventilated facade - best view exterior decoration for aerated concrete walls

In the case of wall insulation, you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the base material. For example, mineral wool fully meets the requirements - it insulates well and does not interfere with the removal of moisture. As in the previous example, the circulation of steam is not disturbed, and the wall remains dry, so you can choose any plaster mixture.

How to Maintain Natural Humidity Balance

But often, for one reason or another, façade finishing is done in circumvention of the basic rules, or, even worse, the insulation was carried out with sheets of foam plastic (its vapor permeability is almost zero) without a ventilation gap. This leads to the accumulation of moisture in the thickness of the wall, which over time manifests itself in damp corners and the collection of condensation in the room - and these are the first harbingers of the appearance of fungal mold.

Consequence of violation of vapor permeability of aerated concrete walls

Such a serious defect can only be corrected by using materials for interior decoration whose ability to transmit vapors is much lower than that of aerated concrete. This method of screening will prevent moisture from accumulating inside the walls. Best to use:

paints with a special composition;
waterproof wallpaper;
cement-sand plaster mortars of dense consistency.

But in this case, the importance of installing high-quality ventilation increases significantly so that accumulated moisture does not settle on the walls and inside the room, forming a greenhouse effect.

In order not to complicate the construction process, it would be best to carry out the interior finishing initially. After all, repairs involve a large volume of evaporated moisture, which simply needs to come out, and it is best if it does this through “bare” gas silicate walls.

And one more small nuance regarding the timing of processing walls made of aerated concrete blocks. Any cellular materials shrink well, which, in turn, negatively affects any finishing cladding - this usually manifests itself in cracking and peeling of the decorative layer.

Therefore, it is recommended to carry out both internal and facade finishing processes no less than six months after the complete construction of the building frame and roof installation. It is best to plan this stage of construction for the spring and summer period. As mentioned above, the interior finishing is carried out first, after all processes are completed, after a month you can begin processing the facade.

Which plaster to prefer for interior decoration

As noted above, aerated concrete blocks differ high degree water absorption, which can lead to excessive drying of the applied layer of plaster. This is especially evident on gypsum compositions and cement-based solutions - rapid drying, cracking and crumbling. If we go the opposite way and over-saturated the wall with water, then it will simply be impossible to plaster it, since the applied layer will not be retained on the aerated concrete base.

Choosing the right materials will help solve this problem:

deep penetration primers with a special composition. When using them, the main thing is not to overdo it and not to oversaturate the wall surface with moisture. Therefore, before use, read the instructions and follow them strictly;
special mixtures intended for plastering gas silicate blocks. Their composition perfectly protects such “capricious” porous surfaces. But this is provided that the plaster is diluted in the correct proportions with water. The only way to avoid mistakes in this matter is to follow the instructions for use from the manufacturer.

But that's not all. The cellular surface does not have good adhesive properties. For this reason, you must initially apply a rough layer of plaster with a thickness of at least 5 mm. But even this finishing option is susceptible to cracking and peeling. To prevent this, a plaster mesh is used. It is best to choose fiberglass or polyurethane fabric due to their excellent alkaline resistance and long service life. Only after applying such a reinforced plaster layer and its complete drying can you safely proceed to finishing.

The best plaster mixtures

Having understood a little about what parameters the finishing mixture should meet, let's look at its most popular and effective types:

plastering compositions based on silicates, namely “ liquid glass" They combine perfectly with aerated concrete surfaces, especially in terms of vapor permeability. But there is a small “but”. Such plaster mixtures incompatible with many types of finishing, for example, based on acrylic, latex, silicone;
gypsum plasters with perlite sand. They are ideal for aerated concrete wall surfaces, as indicated on the packaging. Any finishing material is suitable for them;
cement-lime based plaster mixtures with the addition of optimizing additives. Such compositions were invented specifically for finishing cellular material, even without prior priming. Internal plaster of aerated concrete walls of this type not only has excellent adhesive properties, but is also applicable for both rough and finishing.

The use of such plaster compositions perfect for gas silicate walls and if desired, you can use them to apply the leveling layer yourself. Like all specialized materials improved for use in one area, such mixtures have a very high cost, which ultimately adds up to a decent amount.

But there is an alternative that will allow us to economically resolve the issue of conducting interior plaster– use of ordinary cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:5. But you need to use it in relation to aerated concrete surfaces with extreme caution and not to overdo it with adding water to the working mixture.

Do-it-yourself interior plastering process

Even if you decide that the plastering of aerated concrete walls indoors will be done by craftsmen, it won’t hurt to know the process of doing it. After all, even professionals can sometimes make mistakes, and outside control will help avoid annoying shortcomings.

Preparation for plastering

The process algorithm for preparing walls for plastering is quite simple in execution, in which it is impossible to make a mistake. Therefore, you can do it yourself. To do this you will need:

or plastic 100-120 cm wide;
adhesive for ceramic tiles;
priming deep penetration;
notched spatula with teeth 5-6 mm.

Stage 1. Carefully inspect the walls for construction “jambs”. For example, cracks and chips must be putty and leveled to the general level of the walls. For these purposes, a regular repair solution is suitable, however, if not much of it is needed, then it is best to use glue specifically designed for aerated concrete.

Stage 2. After the restored parts have dried, go over all the walls with a stiff brush to remove dirt and dust.

Step 3: Apply one coat of primer. This can be done in a way convenient for you, for example, using a roller or brush. To reduce the consumption of primer solution experienced builders use conventional sprayers. If you don’t have any at hand, then you can just as easily use an old model of a vacuum cleaner, the principle of which is to blow air. Only after the first layer has dried thoroughly can you begin to apply the second.

Stage 4. When the primer is completely dry, you can safely dilute the glue according to the instructions and cut plaster mesh into strips, the length of which should be equal to the height of the walls.

Stage 5. Starting from the bottom, pour the prepared glue onto the wall, gradually moving upward. The thickness should be approximately equal to a layer of 5 mm, and the width should be slightly larger than the width of the mesh.

Step 6. Apply a strip of plaster and press down until it rests securely on the wall. Now you can level it with a notched trowel. adhesive layer so that the direction of the grooves is horizontal. This improves adhesion both to the wall and to future plaster.

Applying plaster

After reinforced layer completely dry, you can safely proceed to the main plastering process.

Stage 1. Using the building level, profiles are set - beacons.

Stage 2. Mix the working solution according to the instructions. If the choice fell on a traditional cement-sand composition, then it is taken in a ratio of 1:5, a plasticizer is added and mixed to a thick consistency.

Leveling the solution along the beacons

Stage 3. Between the two beacons, mortar is poured over the entire height of the wall. Using the rule, the resulting layer is leveled to the required level of smoothness. Apply the rule to the wall again and check if there are gaps between them. If there is any, add mortar and level it, but no, great, plaster all the walls in a similar way.

The described plastering technology is quite simple and even an inexperienced craftsman can successfully use it. The main thing is to choose the right material to plaster the aerated concrete walls inside the house.

Aerated concrete is a cellular type of concrete and has a porous structure. Therefore, buildings made of aerated concrete blocks easily absorb moisture. Accordingly, for greater resistance to bad weather, the material requires protection. Among the most common methods is the use of plaster. Let's take a closer look at the features of plastering aerated blocks, where to start, what tools are required, what finishing technologies exist using this method.

Aerated concrete absorbs moisture very well, so it needs to be protected

When to start finishing aerated concrete walls

Basic distinctive feature aerated concrete is its increased hygroscopicity. Moreover, when the building gets wet, when the temperature is above zero, negative consequences you can avoid it - it will simply dry out, everything will be fine, but if water gets into the pores of the stone in winter, it freezes, accordingly, it expands, and cracks may appear.

Considering this, it would seem that the sooner the walls are plastered, the better. But this approach is wrong. It is ideal to carry out these activities for the next season, when the surfaces are completely dry after laying. Drying time depends on what mortar was used for laying. For example, a seam made with a concrete-sand mixture will take longer to dry than where the adhesive mixture was used, since it is much thicker.

Plastering is recommended for the next season

Another condition for finishing walls made of aerated concrete, which is recommended to be observed to achieve a high-quality result, is the need to do everything in warm weather. Optimal time Experts call March-October when the air temperature is above zero. If this is not possible, you must at least coat the stone with a primer, cover plastic film, thanks to which it will stand without losing its properties until it is completely finished. A deep penetration primer will most effectively reduce water absorption.

But sometimes there is no opportunity to postpone finishing work - it is necessary to carry it out immediately after the completion of the construction of the walls of the building. Here experts recommend paying especially close attention to the composition of the solution. It must have good plasticity and vapor permeability, then moisture can escape freely.

If plastering needs to be done immediately, then you need to carefully select the material

Which side to start finishing a gas block building from?

There are three options for where to start covering aerated concrete block walls. Each has its own characteristics, and only one is considered correct. In particular, you can start:

outside;
from the inside;
simultaneously from both sides.

Experienced builders recommend starting to plaster the outside only when the home is located near bodies of water. The primary task here is to protect aerated concrete from water and wind. Under other circumstances, the method of treating the outside is not suitable - if you plaster the stone with outside, all the moisture will go inside the house, which can cause cracks to appear, and the process of drying the seams after finishing the masonry will be significantly delayed. In addition, the stone itself may begin to deteriorate. Plastering aerated concrete walls indoors will help avoid the above problems - this method is considered the most preferable due to its effectiveness. The third method is considered the most unpopular method of finishing aerated concrete walls - despite good properties vapor permeability, having “blocked” moisture on both sides, it will have nowhere to go, which sooner or later will lead to peeling of the finishing mixture from the block itself, and subsequently even destruction of the latter.

Plastering only needs to be done on one side

Sequence of work

Plastering aerated concrete blocks contains three stages. Before plastering aerated concrete, it is necessary to apply a special primer with a brush or roller, intended for building materials that absorb moisture well. The greatest effectiveness is achieved by applying the solution evenly, that is, there should be no dry spots. After completing this stage, the primer should be absorbed and dry.

At the second stage, a special reinforced mesh that is resistant to alkaline components is secured using self-tapping screws. The mesh is fixed at a certain distance from the stone - there should be free space between them.

The final, third stage is the actual plastering of aerated concrete walls. Here it is important to choose materials whose vapor permeability properties are higher than those of aerated concrete itself. Increase the service life of the surface while maintaining its attractive appearance appearance, you can, after a year, cover it with a water repellent.

The material for plaster should be selected with greater vapor permeability than aerated concrete.

How to plaster - requirements, nuances

Plaster on aerated concrete will be of the highest quality; it will not have to be re-done in a short time if the composition of the mixture meets certain requirements and the packaging contains special markings. Among other things, it should be characterized by:

resistance to cracking, drying out, and fading;
increased ductility without sacrificing strength;
good adhesion to porous types of concrete;
water-repellent properties;
high level of vapor permeability.

Compliance with such criteria is especially important when used outside the building.

Even considering the large number various types Only a few modern plaster mortars have these characteristics, so the following are most often used when working on aerated concrete.

Silicone plaster is perfect for finishing aerated concrete outside.

Silicone plaster for aerated concrete has the most advantages. It is resistant to adverse weather conditions, has good vapor permeability, water repellency, and is easy to apply. This type has no disadvantages in operation, except for its high cost, which is nevertheless compensated by the long service life of the coating.

Second place belongs to silicate plaster for aerated concrete, characterized by a suitable level of vapor permeability and low water absorption. Main disadvantages: small color palette plus the loss of the original attractiveness of the appearance of silicate when exposed to dust.

In third place is cement-based plaster with lime. She also has necessary qualities for covering this type of building.

Plastering aerated concrete can be done with a cement-based mixture

Often in such houses it is also used gypsum mixture. Its advantages: it dries quickly, subsidence is excluded, there is no need to apply a finishing layer of plaster, in addition, you can make the surface as smooth as possible. However, the solution has its drawbacks. These include average vapor permeability characteristics, susceptibility to rapid getting wet from precipitation, and, in addition, stains may appear during its operation.

In addition, acrylic solutions are used for processing. Their quite significant advantage is strength, but we must also remember the disadvantages - low fire resistance, which is why they are used only in certain rooms, and a relatively low level of vapor permeability. To prevent condensation from accumulating in the pores of aerated concrete, experts recommend using additional ventilation or internal waterproofing.

Having studied the characteristics of all the materials presented, everyone can independently choose how to plaster aerated concrete.

Aerated concrete finishing scheme

Tools used

Plastering walls made of aerated concrete is carried out using tools used when processing other surfaces. Knocking off protruding parts of the walls, making them more smooth, and installing notches where they are needed is done with a plaster hammer or hatchet. The deep penetration primer is applied with a special brush (mack brush). You will also need a plumb line (it helps to install beacons to cover the desired surface with the solution), building level, square, metal scissors, hammer drill, hacksaw, other standard tools. Regarding beacons, there are several options. The first is to purchase specialized metal beacons at a hardware store; fortunately, the choice of them is now quite wide.

Before you start work, you should prepare everything necessary tools

The second, “old-fashioned” method is to use available means: even blocks of wood, pipe scraps, and other suitable “parts”. Thanks to the beacons, the plane is perfectly flat and the angles are correct. The listed tools will be useful if plastering aerated concrete walls is done manually.

Faster, uniform application can be achieved with special equipment. The method is more financially expensive, but this is fully compensated by the quality of the final result: thanks to plastering under pressure, the bonding of the mortar to the surface of aerated concrete is quite strong.

Machine plastering is a little more expensive

Coating technology

The technology for finishing walls with plaster for aerated concrete is quite simple - it is performed in four steps:

preparatory stage, where, before plastering the aerated concrete, it is leveled, thus reducing the consumption of the solution;
padding;
covering aerated concrete walls with a thin layer of plaster, which will then serve as a base when securing the reinforced mesh;
mesh reinforcement (prevents cracks).

For reinforcement, metal or fiberglass mesh is used. Moreover Special attention When installing it, it is necessary to pay attention to windows and doors - places where the most significant load is applied.

Having secured the mesh, the surface is covered with a finishing layer of plaster, and when the coating dries, the so-called grouting is performed, that is, the surface is eliminated from unevenness, roughness, etc. minor defects.

Before plastering aerated concrete, the wall should be leveled

Features of finishing aerated concrete

When starting to cover aerated concrete with plaster mortar, you should take into account the features of this material. First of all, experts recommend avoiding the traditional combination of cement and sand. The corresponding coating can crack and fall off over time, and it also contains a lot of water, which has a destructive effect on the walls themselves.

When plastering gas blocks required condition– the intended purpose of all products is specifically for cellular material.

Experts recommend not using cement mixtures for finishing aerated concrete.

It is important to start work on external cladding facade, when all “wet” internal work has already been completed, then the formation of condensation inside the walls can be avoided. Moreover, the thickness of the plaster layer inside the building should be twice as large as the outside one, otherwise water vapor will remain inside the blocks and they will become damp. This is the only difference between carrying out this work inside and outside - the technology itself remains unchanged.

If you take into account the recommendations of experts, aerated concrete will last you a long time

Thus, we see: with all its advantages, the building material is still quite finicky and requires special treatment. And so that he preserves his beneficial features, a number of measures need to be taken. But if you follow the above recommendations, it will prove to be a very reliable material, will last a long time, and your home will be cozy and comfortable.

Video: Plastering aerated concrete, preparing the base

Video: Putty and plaster of aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is a popular building material used in house construction.

The blocks have enough big size, but light weight.

With their help you can short time build a comfortable and safe building.

Plastering walls made of aerated concrete indoors differs from finishing works on walls made of brick or concrete. And this process makes the work a little more complicated, so you need to approach it responsibly and carefully study all the nuances.

Features of aerated concrete and its advantages

Aerated concrete is made from cement mixture and aluminum powder, which foams concrete.

This technology involves the formation of open cells, which raise questions about finishing work. The cells increase the vapor permeability and water permeability of aerated concrete.

The construction of walls and finishing work is best done in the warm season. First of all, you need to plaster the inside of the house, and then move on to the facade, this way everything will be preserved positive sides this material.

If you do not follow this order, excess moisture will accumulate in the blocks, which will lead to the formation of condensation on the interior walls oh home. Over time, mold, cracks, or peeling of the plaster layer may form on the walls.

The material is used for the construction of residential buildings, cottages, garages, bathhouses, cellars. Aerated concrete blocks have many advantages than other materials:

Low cost (building a house will cost several times less than, for example, made of brick);
Convenience, simplicity and reliability of installation;
Good thermal insulation;
Fire safety.

Selection of plaster for finishing work

For aerated concrete, using a mixture of cement and sand is not recommended.

The material quickly absorbs water, which is part of conventional mixtures. Moisture remains in the cells and after drying, small microcracks form on the plaster. An ordinary solution reduces the level of vapor permeability of aerated concrete.

For high-quality finishing interior spaces plaster with a high moisture resistance is used. Second layer finishing material used with the addition of slag or blast furnace sand. This composition increases the thermal insulation of the room.

For interior decoration, you can use a ready-made special mixture for aerated concrete blocks. This construction product is produced by domestic and foreign manufacturers.

You can use plaster that is designed specifically for foam blocks. The mixture is resistant to low temperatures, vapor tightness, impact resistance.

It is advisable to carry out finishing work at a temperature of at least +5 °C and at low humidity levels.

On every package construction mixture, the method of using the solution is indicated. It is important to read the instructions and pay attention to the expiration date.

When mixing the mixture, it is important to follow a certain sequence: immediately pour the dry mixture into the container, and then gradually add warm water.

As a rule, water is added to dry plaster mixtures in the following proportion: 200 ml per 1 kg of mixture warm water. Then mix everything thoroughly using a concrete mixer or construction mixer.

Necessary tools and work steps

To carry out the work, you will need a special container in which the solution will be mixed. This can be a bucket (plastic or iron) or a tank.

To effectively mix the solution, you will need a drill with a mixing attachment. It will not be possible to prepare a solution of the required consistency by hand; there will be clots or lumps in it.

Plaster is applied to the blocks using a plaster ladle or trowel.

Leveling is done using a spatula or a fork. It is advisable to purchase plaster beacons; with their help it will be easier to make the surface perfectly flat.

You can rub the surface with a plaster float or fine sandpaper. To simplify the application of plaster, it is recommended to use fiberglass mesh.

Plastering aerated concrete walls indoors is a labor-intensive and scrupulous task. Finishing work must be approached responsibly and the execution sequence must be strictly followed.

It is necessary to prepare the walls for applying the solution. Carefully remove dust, glue residues or any dirt from the surface. If there are oil stains, they must be removed with gasoline or alcohol.

If the stain cannot be cleaned, it must be hollowed out from the block. Then carefully cover the hole with the solution. You also need to sand all the seams and only then proceed to the next step.

Cover the walls generously with primer for aerated concrete walls. Such solutions are vapor-tight. The primer must be applied in several layers to dry walls. Each layer should be allowed to dry before applying the next.

The adhesion of plaster to aerated concrete is low, so you need to use a reinforced mesh made of alkali-resistant fiber. This mesh is quite strong.

You need to attach the mesh to the walls using nails (12 cm) or dowels with a wide head. The mesh must be firmly secured so that it does not sag.

It is necessary to apply a rough coat. The mixture is thrown onto the surface using a trowel and then leveled with a rule.

Applying a primer to the rough layer of plaster. Slag sand must be added to the primer. The finishing layer of putty is applied using a trowel.

After drying, you need to rub down the walls. Give time for the walls to dry (2 days) and then you can start decorative design surfaces.

Master class on the process of processing aerated concrete surfaces:

Making aerated concrete blocks indoors is not an easy task, but right choice building materials and compliance with basic rules will give the desired result.

Plastering walls made of aerated concrete requires special materials And correct process application. If you use unsuitable materials or do not follow the process of applying the plaster, it will not last long and will quickly begin to deteriorate and peel off.

Briefly about aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is a building material that is used to construct the walls of a building. Preferably produced in blocks measuring 400x200x600 mm (dimensions may vary depending on the manufacturer).

Aerated concrete is produced from such components as:

Cement.
Quartz sand.
Lime.
Water.

By mixing the above components with aluminum powder, hydrogen is released, which increases the crude solution several times. When concrete hardens, a large number of hydrogen bubbles create its porous structure.

Advantages and disadvantages of aerated concrete

Advantages:

Good thermal and sound insulation.
The blocks are light in weight and easy to process.
Environmental friendliness of the material.
High fire resistance.

Flaws:

Exterior finishing is required.
Fragility of the material.
High price.

The use of aerated concrete in construction can significantly reduce time and financial costs, since its laying does not require special skills, and thermal insulation properties allow you to save on insulation.

Preparing the walls

Since walls made of aerated concrete have smooth surface, the plaster does not stick well to them. Regardless of whether external or internal plastering of aerated concrete walls requires preparation before finishing. It is also worth knowing that aerated concrete has a high vapor permeability; this fact must be taken into account when plastering walls made of this material.

Preparing aerated concrete walls for plastering is carried out as follows:

After the walls are prepared and reinforced, you can begin plastering work. It is worth considering that after reinforcing the walls with glue, you must wait several days, since the glue has poor water absorption when drying and the plaster may sag.

Technology

The technology for plastering walls made of aerated concrete consists of the following stages:

Preparing the walls.
Priming the walls. It is recommended to use a primer based on acrylate siloxane.
Wall reinforcement. To reinforce the walls I use fiberglass mesh that is resistant to stretching and high strength to break.
Installation of beacons. Beacons are installed at a distance of no more than 120 cm from each other. The use of beacons allows you to plaster the walls perfectly evenly. If the walls are smooth, beacons can not be used.
Applying the first layer of plaster. The first layer of plaster is applied using a methodical ladle or trowel, after which it is leveled with a wide spatula or wooden slats at least 1 meter.
Applying a second layer of plaster. For the second layer, it is necessary to use finishing plaster; it contains fine sand, which allows you to hide the flaws of the first layer. The second layer is applied in the same way as the first, only leveled more thoroughly.
Grouting joints. A few days after applying the plaster you can grouting. The joints are grouted with a wooden float, after lightly moistening the wall with water. Grind the seams, lightly pressing the grater against the wall in a circular motion.

After grouting the joints, the walls are ready and can be applied. decorative plaster or wallpaper. Finishing work on plastered walls should be done only after they have completely dried.

Selection of cladding for aerated concrete

Plaster mixtures for aerated concrete walls must have the following properties:

Good strength.
Weather resistance.
Good waterproofing properties.
High vapor permeability.
Elasticity.
Good adhesion to walls.

These are some of the main criteria for plastering aerated concrete walls for interior and exterior decoration.

Wall cladding made of aerated concrete can be made with the following materials:

It is important to use plaster designed for aerated concrete walls. Using other types of plasters in the future may lead to their peeling.

Conditions for working with facing material

For high-quality and durable plastering of walls, it is necessary to adhere to the following conditions:

Maintaining consistency plastering first external then internal.
Plaster walls can be carried out after all wet screeding, puttying, etc. work has been completed. The walls must be thoroughly dry after previous work.
Plastering walls can be produced at a temperature of +5 +30 degrees. Under no circumstances should work be carried out sub-zero temperature, as the plaster will fall off.

You should also know that for buildings made of foam concrete when exterior decoration You cannot use polystyrene foam, since it does not have vapor permeability properties, and accumulated moisture between the wall and the insulation will contribute to its delamination.

Interior and exterior decoration

The process of plastering external and internal walls consists of the following stages.

Interior plaster:

Initially, the walls of the building must be carefully prepared. Clean them from any remaining solution, paint, bitumen stains, dust and dirt. If necessary, the walls can be washed with water and soapy water. It is also necessary to seal all seams and joints of the blocks with special putty.
After the putty has dried, you can prime the walls. The primer must be compatible with the plaster used. The primer is applied evenly with a roller or brush, in two layers, without missing a single section of the wall. After approximately three hours, the primer will dry and the process of plastering the walls can begin.
Initially, it is necessary to apply a starting layer of solution, made according to the manufacturer's instructions, which are indicated on the packaging. The solution is evenly applied to the wall surface with a metal float or spatula.
After the first layer dries You can apply the finish in the same way. After a day, the dried plaster is rubbed with a wooden float, after wetting the wall with water.
At the final stage plastered wall can be painted emulsion paint with vapor-permeable properties.

External plaster:

Exterior wall finishing must be made strictly with materials that have vapor permeability properties. Just like for interior plaster, you need to clean the walls and remove all cracks, chips, etc. This can be done using tile adhesive. Temperature environment at the time of the plastering works should be from +10 to +25 degrees.
After preparing the walls, it is necessary to strengthen the fiberglass reinforcing mesh. You can strengthen the mesh with glue or wood screws. The mesh prevents the solution from draining and holds it well on the wall, and also helps avoid cracks due to shrinkage of the plaster.
The next step is applying plaster. The plaster is applied in the same way as for interior decoration. You should know that it is necessary for the vapor permeability of plaster to be higher than that of aerated concrete. If necessary, you can install beacons to align the walls.
You should also know that the thickness of the outer layer of plaster should be half that of the inner one.
Leveling the plaster is done with a wooden lath.
When the plaster has dried, it is necessary to grout the seams and defects. After 48 hours, the plaster will dry and the final stage of finishing work can be carried out.

Therefore, we can summarize that finishing a building from aerated concrete is not a cheap pleasure, but saving on materials will lead to much detrimental consequences and large financial costs.

Plastering aerated concrete walls with cement-sand mortar

To save money, aerated concrete walls can be plastered cement-sand mortar this is done as follows:

First you need to prepare the walls: To do this, you need to remove dust, dirt and glue residues from them, and then prime them.
The next step will be to reinforce the walls using fiberglass mesh and the cheapest common tile adhesive. Using a spatula or metal float, glue is applied to the primed surface of the wall, after which the mesh is applied. After that, the attached mesh must be smoothed horizontally with a notched trowel. When the glue dries, you will get a surface with grooves that will facilitate good adhesion of the cement-sand plaster.
Thus, in addition to reinforcing the wall, the seams of the blocks are smoothed out and small irregularities in the wall are removed, and the glue grooves will prevent the plaster from slipping when it is applied. A fiberglass mesh will prevent cracks from appearing when the plaster shrinks.

After the glue has completely dried, you can begin to plaster the wall. To do this, you need to mix the cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3 and throw it onto the wall with a ladle. After that, use a long lath to distribute the mortar evenly over the wall using light movements from left to right; this procedure must be repeated until the wall becomes level.
When the walls are completely plastered and dry, you can begin grouting the joints, after which the walls will be ready for further finishing, wallpapering or decorative plaster.

Plastering bare walls made of aerated concrete with cement-sand mortar is unacceptable, since it does not have good enough adhesion and will slide, and cracks will appear when drying.

The article popularly talks about widely used building materials, lightweight concrete, main characteristics and finishing methods using traditional technologies, plastering house elements.

Plastering aerated concrete walls

Plastering interior and exterior structures made of lightweight concrete is the most commonly used method of protecting against the effects of external climatic conditions and giving the house an original, respectable appearance, as well as internal comfort.

The prevalence of the technology is due to the ability to inexpensively and independently carry out a set of works on the preparation and finishing of structures and achieve the desired results.

Special characteristics of aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete belongs to cellular concrete, consists of quicklime, cement, sand and gas-forming aluminum powder. When mixing components and water, a reaction occurs with the release of gas, forming voids, the number of which determines the weight, density, thermal conductivity of concrete and areas of use:

Concrete with a density of 300-400 (kg/m3) is used for thermal insulation.
Density 500-900 (kg/m3) allows it to be used for constructing partitions and walls.
With a density of 1000-1200 kg/m3, concrete is used to make load-bearing walls.

Concrete has gained popularity in housing construction due to its properties:

Low thermal conductivity allows it to be used as a heat-insulating substance.
Frost resistance can reach 150 cycles; among lightweight concrete, only expanded clay concrete has greater durability.
High fire resistance.

One of the negative qualities for construction is hygroscopicity, which means that aerated concrete needs a coating.

The hygroscopicity of aerated concrete requires isolation from moisture.

Preparing gas silicate blocks indoors for plastering

In aerated concrete the amount of cement is up to 60 percent, in gas silicate concrete no more than 14, lime is twice as much, the rest is sand. The percentage matters because the more cement, the higher the strength, and the base must be stronger than the coating, otherwise it will peel off. That is, the finishing of the house must be done with a lime-cement composition.

When finishing, you need to remember that the base must be stronger than the coating.

The main function of plastering surfaces made of gas silicate blocks is to form a vapor-impermeable barrier and limit moisture absorption. To improve the adhesion of the coating to the base, the structural elements are coated with a deep penetration primer, the first layer is applied generously, better with a spray gun, after drying you need to paint it again.

After priming, given that the gas silicate composition of the base is weak, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement to prevent the appearance of cracks.

The rough layer of reinforcement is made from glue on which the blocks were laid, experienced craftsmen They use tile adhesive for this as a cheaper composition.

Using glue instead of regular mortar is associated with polymer additives in a composition that ensures strong adhesion with a thin layer of the mixture.

After applying a thin layer of glue, 2-7 millimeters thick, a fiberglass mesh is embedded into it, which fixes the blocks and serves as a reliable base for the coating. The mesh is overlapped over the applied glue and pressed in with a notched spatula.

It is advisable to start applying the solution after 5-7 days, when the reinforced layer gains strength.

Plastering gas silicate blocks inside a building: technologies used

Protection of gas silicate structures occurs in three stages:

1.Plastering with lime-cement mortar.

2.Priming.

3. Putty.

A lime-cement or lime-gypsum mortar no more than one centimeter thick is applied to the reinforced surface.

The technology of manual plastering is common; if the wall is large and uneven, beacons are installed and the applied layer is leveled using a broad rule.

The solution is mixed in a bucket, small tank or trough, water is poured into the poured mixture and stirred to the required consistency, you need to cook a little, gypsum sets in 20 minutes, cement needs a little more time, so the amount should be sufficient to be processed during this time. You can level it immediately after throwing it on, the last stage is grout.

After finishing, use a long strip to check the evenness of the surface; unevenness within 5-7 millimeters will not be noticeable.

Is it necessary to plaster the aerated concrete block from the outside?

The need to protect the façade made of aerated concrete is due to its properties:

Hygroscopicity will lead to the saturation of gas blocks with water, which in frost will cause destruction of the structure.
Mechanical impact will cause chips, dents, and cracks.
The material has a porous structure with open pores, through which circulating air carries away heat.
Rough aerated concrete house looks unpresentable.

For aerated concrete structures, the danger is the accumulation of moisture inside the blocks, which freezes and destroys the block from the inside due to temperature changes. Therefore, protection of external surfaces is mandatory; the plastering method of protection is widely used due to various reasons, one of which is the low cost of this technology.

Materials used for exterior work

For application protective equipment externally, substances with the following qualities are needed:

permeable to water vapor;
not getting wet;
with good grip;
resistant to frost.

The main types of mixtures for finishing aerated concrete outside:

Acrylic for aerated concrete, strengthens loaded structures, base.
Silicate, include liquid glass;
Silicone, based on silicon-organic polymers, is well suited for facades, but high in price;
Gypsum mixture;
Lime-cement composition.

Do-it-yourself internal plaster of aerated concrete block: features of the work

Due to the high hygroscopicity of the material, plastering inside the house has its own characteristics.

Plastering surfaces must necessarily include a reinforcement process. It is recommended to use fiberglass mesh, which does not break down in an alkaline environment.

The surface should be painted with a deep penetration primer twice.

Apply a thin layer of plaster about 5 millimeters thick and embed the mesh in it. After drying, apply the base coat using beacons.

Which is better plaster

If vapor permeability is required for the kitchen, bathroom or sauna, mixtures of gypsum with perlite sand are used. Silicate is also suitable, but it must be taken into account that such mixtures are incompatible with acrylic, silicone, and latex materials.

For use on aerated concrete, you can use cement-lime mixtures, which do not require priming the walls.

Set of tools

Finishing aerated concrete surfaces requires the following tools:

Spatulas.
Scraper to remove dirt and debris.
Metal brushes.
Hammer for knocking down irregularities and protruding mortar.
Sandpaper.
Brushes, rollers for priming.
Master OK.
Tank for mixing the solution.
Mixer for preparing the solution.
Falcon, shield where the mixture is applied.
Grout grater.
Poluterok.
The rule is to align the corners.

How to plaster: progress of work

Ready-made mixtures are excellent for finishing, but have a high cost, so for do-it-yourself wall preparation technology is proposed, after which you can safely use any composition.

For preparation you will need tile adhesive, fiberglass mesh, and deep penetration primer. It is necessary to smooth out all chips and cracks with a compound for laying aerated concrete blocks, then remove dust and debris from the wall with a cheek and paint it with a deep penetration primer twice.

Tile adhesive is diluted and applied to the surface with a thickness of 5 millimeters, the mesh is pressed on top with a notched trowel. When the layer is completely dry, apply plaster in the usual way, any solution can be used.

The costs of this technology will be an order of magnitude less than when using ready-made plasters.

How long before you can move on to the next stages of wall finishing?

After completion, the beacons are removed, and the resulting dents are subsequently sealed with putty.

To move to the following types finishing, you must wait until the walls are completely dry when constant temperature. Drying will require about a month in the warm season to ensure that temperature changes do not lead to cracking or peeling. It is not advisable to speed up the process; if necessary, a heater is used.

Internal and external finishing Houses important stage construction work, the quality of which determines the durability, comfort of living and aesthetic appearance of the house. For finishing work there is a lot modern materials and technology, but traditional methods, do not lose popularity and are still relevant today. These methods allow you to achieve the necessary results at low cost and labor intensity.