The stapler doesn't work for a reason. How to adjust a mechanical, manual stapler (staple shooter) so that it finishes off the staples? How to charge a mechanical device: video

A stapler is one of the assistants both at home and at work. With this tool you can reduce your efforts in working with papers, during repair work at home, and improve working conditions in solving production issues.

Types of staplers

Staplers vary:

- by design:

— mechanical;

— electric;

— pneumatic;

- type:

— staplers;

— nailers;

- universal;

- by purpose:

— assembly (stationery, stitching, packaging, etc.);

— construction (furniture, cable, tackers, etc.);

— on management:

— manual (using the hand - squeezing/unclamping);

- with foot pedal;

- semi-automatic;

- automatic.

When choosing a stapler, you should take into account the type and nature of the work.

The main elements that ensure the operation of any stapler are the magazine and the impact-return
device. The magazine contains a holder with U-shaped guides into which a cassette with consumables (staples, nails) is inserted. The magazine is equipped with a consumable supply mechanism and is made in the form of a spring-loaded pusher, on one side having a thrust plate, on the other - a clamp for fastening in the shop. The impact-return device is a striker made in the form of a plate with dimensions corresponding to the dimensions of the staples or pin used, the diameter and length of which correspond to the length and diameter of the nail head. The firing pin is mounted on a firing pin, which has a shape depending on the design of the stapler and, on the other hand, rests against a spring, the force of which is regulated by a screw. To eliminate shock loads, the device is provided with a buffer (shock absorber), which is made in the form of a polyurethane gasket installed in the device body.

The device is controlled:

- in a mechanical stapler - with a lever hinged on the stapler body and, on the other hand, having a movable rocker arm that fits into the groove of the striker;

— in an electric stapler, the function of the striker is performed by the electromagnet solenoid. When the button is pressed, the contacts close. The current passes through the elements of the control unit, made in the form of a circuit board, to the electromagnet coil, as a result of which the device operates;

— in a pneumatic stapler, the piston of the pneumatic cylinder performs the hammer function. When the trigger is pressed, acting on the pneumatic distributor, compressed air enters the cavity of the pneumatic cylinder, resulting in an impact action.

Types of faults and repairs

Absence of a fastening element (staple/nail) in the materials being fastened. Most often it occurs when consumables leave the store. The stapler should be rendered inoperative. The cartridge with consumables is removed from the holder. If possible, remove the pusher. The clip folds into
side, since it is hinged. The jammed part (staple/nail) is removed with tweezers or a narrow flat screwdriver. Next, the stapler is prepared for further work in the reverse order.

Hammering of fastened materials with two or more elements (staple/nail). This can happen due to two reasons. The first is due to wear (bevel) in any direction of the end surface of the striker. The impact device cover must be removed. Disconnect and remove the firing pin. Bring the end surface of the striker to correct form fine file or sandpaper. The main condition is that the end surface should not have a convex appearance. Otherwise, the edges of the staples will protrude when slaughtered. To maintain the action distance of the striker, grind off the supporting surface of the buffer/shock absorber (polyurethane gasket), adjacent to the body of the impact device, to a size corresponding to the size of the striker being ground.

The second is the deformation of the guide surface of the impact device body. For mechanical staplers, this is deformation of the surface of the casing adjacent to the firing pin.

Removed with a hammer or pliers.

The drummer works “idle”.

In mechanical staplers, it occurs as a result of early dismounting of the rocker arm from the supporting surface of the striker groove. In this case, a bevel is produced in this place, which is removed strictly perpendicular to the surface of the striker with a file.

For other staplers, if the body is overheated, this indicates an unsatisfactory condition of the rubbing surfaces or breakage of individual elements (for example, springs). Bringing the stapler into working condition is possible by replacing faulty elements.

When the lever/button is pressed, there is complete absence of action from the impact device.

In mechanical staplers, there is a violation of the interaction of the striker with the return spring (for example, a break in the support plate under the spring). In this case, instead of one upper rivet securing the striker to the striker, you can install a screw with two nuts and shorten the spring by the size from the screw to the support plate. For other staplers, there is no power supply to the electromagnet coil or compressed air into the cavity of the pneumatic cylinder.

It should be remembered : carry out all repairs and maintenance during a power outage

tool and rendering it inoperative.

A furniture stapler is widely used in the household; with its help you can easily nail down greenhouse film, cover furniture with fabric, and it will also come in handy in other situations. The variety of models will confuse an ignorant person, so in this article you will find useful tips choose how to use it, which brackets are suitable for which models.

There are a wide variety of home staplers on sale; the first thing you need to pay attention to is the type of staple. The most popular and frequently used type of staple is type 53. Most models use type 53. This type has the following dimensions: staple width 11.4 mm, thickness - 0.7 mm. Of course, you don’t need to know these dimensions, you just need to know what staples your “pigalle” works on and their type.

Secondly, how deep staples can be driven in.

Furniture guns can be simple (staples 4-8 mm deep, inexpensive). Most often made of plastic, intended for infrequent use. Only small staples are used, so they can only be used to nail fabric or paper. Cheap and simple, the price is about 100 rubles. Like these ones.

There are also options 4-10 (staples from 4 to 10 mm inclusive). Such pistols are already made of metal, although there is no adjustment screw. Yes, it is of no use, the staples can be driven in 10 mm without maximum adjustment. As a rule, type 53 staples are used.

Staplers 4-14 mm (the very first photo in the article). The most popular and best-selling. Made of metal, solid, high quality.
Use staples 4-14 mm deep with 53 type. The main difference from others is the presence of an adjusting screw, with which you can increase or decrease the impact force. As a rule, if the staple is more than 10 mm deep, then the screw must be tightened in the direction of increasing the impact force, otherwise the staple will not completely enter the wood. A wide range of bracket sizes (4,6,8,10,12,14 mm) will allow you to choose the optimal depth for the job. Of the good models, we can highlight the Zubr company - reliable and high-quality, price 330 rubles.

Also among the household models, it is necessary to highlight the model with bracket type 140. It is thicker and has the following dimensions: width 10.6 mm and thickness 1.2 mm. If you load type 53 staples into a type 140 stapler, it will shoot 2 staples at a time. Therefore, it is so necessary to know the type on which “pigalle” works. Most often, guns with 140 type support several types of staples, these are small nails and semicircular staples for driving in cables. We can say that this is a universal option, which is a pleasure to work with. However, it does not support the most popular type 53 bracket. The Stayer stapler, shown in the photo below, supports 4 types of staples: type 140, type 300, type 500 and type 36. Its price is 650 rubles.

Bracket type 53

The most used, used in most staplers.

Rectangular
Bracket width 11.4 mm
Thickness 0.7 mm.
Dimensions (depth) 4-14 mm.
Sold in packs of 1000 pieces
There are 2 types: hardened and simple. Tempered ones are used for strong or laminated wood (chipboard). Regular staples are 2 times cheaper and are designed for soft wood.

Type 140

Powerful, thick staples are also used for fastening material to wood, plywood, and chipboard.
Rectangular bracket.
Width - 10.6 mm
Thickness - 1.2 mm
Sizes 4-14 mm
Packs of 1000 pieces.
The cost is higher than that of type 53 staples.

Type 36

Semicircular brackets for cable fastening.
Bracket width - 7.6 mm (cable with a diameter of no more than 6.4 mm can be pinned)
Thickness - 1.2 mm
Dimensions - 10, 12. 14 mm

Type 300

Small carnations with a T-shaped head. Used for fastening to wood, wood, chipboard.
Nail thickness - 1.2 mm
Sizes - 10, 12 and 14 mm.

Type 500

Carnations without a cap (finish type). In general it looks like type 300, only there is no cap.
Dimensions - 10,12, 14 mm.

If you are doing furniture production and use the corresponding tool constantly in hard mode, then ordinary household models will not last long. Therefore, there are professional options for such purposes. The RAPID tool has proven itself to be excellent. This company specializes in the production of only furniture guns, so they excellent quality. However, their cost is rather high, for example. A standard gun for type 53 staples costs 2,200 rubles. However, according to reviews from customers who bought a couple of these models from us, they are very strong. Before that, they bought ordinary household ones, but they often broke down. Therefore, it was decided to buy 1 professional one for testing - it outlasted 10 conventional staplers. As you can see, the difference is simply huge. For home use An ordinary inexpensive one, for example from the Zubr company, will suffice.

How to insert staples

For those who are picking up a stapler for the first time, this can be a problem. But after the first time you will learn right away, nothing complicated. Here's a photo for you.

First, take out the “staple pusher” with the spring from the gun, then insert the staples with the point down and push them in with the “spring thing” until it clicks into place.

Preparing the stapler for use

Pull out the latch that is located at the back of the stapler.
Insert the staples into the special groove. The staples should be inserted with the tips facing down. (P)
Reinstall the valve and spring
The stapler is ready to use.

How to use a stapler

Place the stapler firmly against the surface where you want to drive the staple.
Without lifting the stapler from the surface, press the lever until you hear a characteristic sound. This action will require mechanical effort.
If the staple does not fly out, it means it is stuck and you need to get it out by completing 4 steps to prepare the stapler for use.
Ready. The staple has been successfully driven in.

In order to avoid injury from a furniture stapler, it is important to thoroughly understand how to use such a tool. If you are using a mechanical stapler, first adjust the adjuster screw. The adjustment must be made on the rough material, rotating the regulator from minimum to maximum. If the fastener does not enter the material from the first blow, then you will need to adjust your furniture stapler again, and if it does, then start working on the “finishing” part.

To drive staples at the required distance, it is best to mark such places in advance using a pen or pencil. You can also use a clamp, which must maintain the same distance when driving in fasteners without preliminary markings.

Don’t forget to also hold the material while making shots so that the material cannot move when driving in the staple. Do not forget to also monitor the presence of staples so as not to be left without them at the most inopportune moment for you.

When the tool is not in use, secure the handle with the safety lock. This is required for safety reasons. When doing these simple recommendations, you can easily cope with upholstery of a sofa or other necessary task associated with a furniture stapler; the price always depends on the type of tool and its manufacturer.

Construction stapler repair.

- with foot pedal;

When choosing a stapler, you should take into account the type and nature of the work.

Stapler device

The main elements that ensure the operation of any stapler are the magazine and the impact-return device. The magazine contains a holder with U-shaped guides into which a cassette with consumables (staples, nails) is inserted. The magazine is equipped with a consumable supply mechanism and is made in the form of a spring-loaded pusher, on one side having a thrust plate, on the other - a clamp for fastening in the shop. The impact-return device is a striker made in the form of a plate with dimensions corresponding to the dimensions of the staples or pin used, the diameter and length of which correspond to the length and diameter of the nail head. The firing pin is mounted on a firing pin, which has a shape depending on the design of the stapler and, on the other hand, rests against a spring, the force of which is regulated by a screw. To eliminate shock loads, the device is provided with a buffer (shock absorber), which is made in the form of a polyurethane gasket installed in the device body.

The device is controlled:

- in a mechanical stapler - with a lever hinged on the stapler body and, on the other hand, having a movable rocker arm that fits into the groove of the striker;

— in an electric stapler, the function of the striker is performed by the electromagnet solenoid. When the button is pressed, the contacts close. The current passes through the elements of the control unit, made in the form of a circuit board, to the electromagnet coil, as a result of which the device operates;

— in a pneumatic stapler, the piston of the pneumatic cylinder performs the hammer function. When the trigger is pressed, acting on the pneumatic distributor, compressed air enters the cavity of the pneumatic cylinder, resulting in an impact action.

Types of faults and repairs

Absence of a fastening element (staple/nail) in the materials being fastened. Most often it occurs when consumables leave the store. The stapler should be rendered inoperative. The cartridge with consumables is removed from the holder. If possible, remove the pusher. The clip folds into side, since it is hinged. The jammed part (staple/nail) is removed with tweezers or a narrow flat screwdriver. Next, the stapler is prepared for further work in the reverse order.

Hammering of fastened materials with two or more elements (staple/nail). This can happen due to two reasons. The first is due to wear (bevel) in any direction of the end surface of the striker. The impact device cover must be removed. Disconnect and remove the firing pin. Bring the end surface of the striker to the correct shape with a fine file or sandpaper. The main condition is that the end surface should not have a convex appearance. Otherwise, the edges of the staples will protrude when slaughtered. To maintain the action distance of the striker, grind off the supporting surface of the buffer/shock absorber (polyurethane gasket), adjacent to the body of the impact device, to a size corresponding to the size of the striker being ground.

The second is the deformation of the guide surface of the impact device body. For mechanical staplers, this is deformation of the surface of the casing adjacent to the firing pin.

Removed with a hammer or pliers.

The drummer works “idle”.

In mechanical staplers, it occurs as a result of early dismounting of the rocker arm from the supporting surface of the striker groove. In this case, a bevel is produced in this place, which is removed strictly perpendicular to the surface of the striker with a file.

For other staplers, if the body is overheated, this indicates an unsatisfactory condition of the rubbing surfaces or breakage of individual elements (for example, springs). Bringing the stapler into working condition is possible by replacing faulty elements.

When the lever/button is pressed, there is complete absence of action from the impact device.

In mechanical staplers, there is a violation of the interaction of the striker with the return spring (for example, a break in the support plate under the spring). In this case, instead of one upper rivet securing the striker to the striker, you can install a screw with two nuts and shorten the spring by the size from the screw to the support plate. For other staplers, there is no power supply to the electromagnet coil or compressed air to the cavity of the pneumatic cylinder.

It should be remembered . All repairs and maintenance must be carried out when the power is off.

tool and rendering it inoperative.

Electronic scales Today they are used both for measuring body weight and for preparing a variety of dishes. Kitchen scales especially convenient for precise and picky housewives. But even the smartest electronics tend to break down.

• — Replaceable batteries
• - Paper towels
• — Can of canned food

Try changing the batteries in your kitchen scale. Perhaps the cause of the malfunction is precisely that the charge in the previous batteries has run out.

Wipe scales paper towels. To do this, they can even be disassembled. True, you should not do this if you are not sure that you will be able to return it later. scales to its original condition. There is a possibility that during operation, food particles got into the mechanism of the kitchen scale and because of this a malfunction occurred. By the way, it should be noted that some scales may not show accurate weight if the dimensions of the product being weighed are larger than the scales themselves.

Turn on the scale calibration button. Hold it down for at least 30 seconds until the word “CAL” appears on the scale display. The display will then show information about the weight that needs to be placed on the scales for calibration. As a weight standard, you can use a can of canned food, or another container on which the weight is accurately indicated. After 3-5 seconds, the word “PASS” will appear on the display. Delete the received weight value and turn off scales— calibration is completed. If the calibration was unsuccessful, you will see the message “FAIL”.

If the scale breaks down immediately after purchase, then according to the Law “On Protection of Consumer Rights” you have the right to exchange the faulty product for a similar one, or return the money.

Be prepared to take your scale to service center. Professionals will quickly and efficiently fix the breakdown.

Steeringmechanism(RM) of the car performs an important function - it ensures movement in a given direction. This becomes possible when the driver, through the steering gear and the steering wheel located inside the car, transmits force to the PM. Due to the complex articulation, the mechanism often fails.

• - set of tools;
• - lubricant;
• — spare bolts for hinges;
• - RM details.

There are two types of steering mechanisms - worm and rack and pinion. The worm gear consists of a steering wheel. steering wheel shaft, worm pair (worm, roller), worm pair housing and steering bipod. The rack and pinion design is somewhat simpler. It has only two tie rods, which are designed to transmit the driver's force to the steering arms.

To increase the efficiency of steering (RS), almost every car is equipped with a hydraulic booster. Unfortunately, in the RM of a car, like in any other, malfunctions can occur, which can be determined by characteristic features. So, if a whistling noise occurs, its causes should be sought in the weakening of the connecting hinges of the control unit or in improper contact of the power steering hoses with other parts. To eliminate this problem, tighten the connecting joints and correctly position the power steering hoses in the clamps.

Look for the causes of rattling noise in the PM in poor contact of the power steering tubes with the body, lack of lubrication, loose fastening of the mechanism or improperly installed tie rod ends. To solve these problems, secure the power steering pipes, lubricate the steering mechanism, tighten the bracket mounting bolts and steering rod joints, and if necessary, replace the ends.

A situation may arise when, in order to return the wheels to the position rectilinear movement, you have to apply too much force to turn the steering wheel. Here, most likely, the connection between the steering wheel and the turn switch mount is loose, or the steering wheel connections are loose. This may also be due to a stuck flow control valve, loose tie rods and ball joints, or poor PM adjustment. Depending on the cause of the malfunction. You may need to replace the intermediate shaft or power steering pump, tighten the tie rods and ball joints, and, if necessary, replace them completely. After completing the repair, be sure to check the neutral position.

Remember correct operation- the key to long-term work. Therefore, do not overload the stapler with staples and use only those that correspond to this stapler model.

Most problems associated with the operation of the stapler arise as a result of careless handling. For example, sharp blows to the body, frequent falling to the floor. In most cases, the stapler can be repaired right at the workplace, without the help of a specialist. And only in rare cases is it better to immediately replace it with a new one.

Probably each of us in childhood was very interested in internal device toys, especially mechanical ones. Adults often behave no better. They look everywhere: the car breaks down - we open the hood, although we know in advance that we cannot do without a car service; The computer has malfunctioned - using the folk method we are trying to bring the capricious piece of hardware back to life. Curiosity is human, so let's together try to figure out how the far from complicated devices - office staplers - work. At the same time, we will try to draw conclusions about which of them can be called quality, and which should take their rightful place on your desktop.

Actually, nothing prevents you from looking inside your faithful assistant, especially since you don’t need any tools for this. Manufacturers of staplers do not strive to reinvent the wheel and limit themselves to two standard designs of the internal mechanism. Most The internal space of the stapler is occupied by a “clip” of staples, which, as they are consumed, moves towards the nose of the device under the influence of a spring or metal plate.

Staplers with a plate are more durable and work more consistently. This mechanism ensures smooth movement of the staples along the guides towards the “anvil”, which means the quality of the filing will be consistently high. "Anvil" good staplers necessarily rotates, which allows the device to be used in two modes: standard and temporary fastening. In the first case, the legs of the paper clip are wrapped inward - towards each other, and in the second, on the contrary - outward.

The quality of the staple that will be loaded into the breech of the stapler may well affect the operation of the entire device. Most manufacturers wisely orient their staplers to the staples standard sizes, which saves the end user from unnecessary searches for a suitable product. However, expensive staplers from famous manufacturers can also use non-standard staples, which are designed to protect the devices from the use of nameless ones. Supplies.

The smallest brackets No. 21 have a size of 0.7 mm, and they differ little in appearance from the same ones, but with number 10. An attempt to replace bracket No. 21 with a ten will most likely end in failure: a difference of even 0.2 mm, although It is hardly noticeable to the eye, but in practice it can cause the stapler to jam. The No. 21 staple has an excellent quality - it is almost invisible on paper. If we talk about the quality of such a bracket, it largely depends on the material from which the bracket is made. The wire used to make staples must have smooth surface and uniform thickness.

Choosing colored staples makes sense. Such hardware will be easy to notice on the desktop; the special coating should be regarded as protection against corrosion, especially if documents with significant shelf life will be stapled with such staples. Galvanized or copper-plated metal staples should have sharp ends that allow them to easily pierce even thick sheets of paper. Sharpening can be done both externally and internally. inside. The staples are fastened into strip clips with a special adhesive, which is usually applied only on one side in a thin, inconspicuous layer.

Now about the stapler body. High-quality, durable, reliable products have a metal body. It's practical and stylish. Plastic also has its advantages: it is light and warm. Most stapler manufacturers like to combine metal, plastic and rubber. We have already talked about the backing - it protects the table from scratches, and rubber inserts in the stapler body allow the user to securely hold this wonderful device in his hand. Products made entirely of stainless steel are rare, but they can become a completely organic addition to the interior of a stylish clerk’s desk.

Modern staplers can not only have an elaborate, stylish appearance, but sometimes look a little frivolous or cute. The range of some manufacturers includes staplers with animal-shaped bodies; most products are combined into series with common stylistic and design features. These could be product lines aimed at schoolchildren, students, office workers, managers of firms and companies.

Staplers can be included in stationery sets, in which all products are made in the same style. When studying the packaging of the stapler, you should pay attention to the depth of the firmware and the punching power. The stitching depth should be understood as the distance from the edge of the paper to the place where the paperclip will be located. Pocket staplers have a stitching depth of up to 40 mm; for a desktop copy, this parameter is much higher.

Few people know that sticky notes owe their existence to a failed experiment. At the end of the 60s. in the laboratory of the 3M company, where they worked to improve the quality of adhesive tape, they obtained a dense consistency of glue that was not absorbed by the surfaces being glued and turned out to be unnecessary. This type of glue was remembered a few years later, when a laboratory employee needed to secure many lost bookmarks in a church songbook without damaging the pages. And in 1980, Post-it Notes were first released for sale.

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The world first saw a stapler back in the 18th century. The first of them was created by order of Louis XV. The device had a different shape than modern mechanism. Moreover, the French staples, made by the hands of craftsmen, were stamped with a coat of arms. Only the United States was able to launch mass production of staplers.

Speciation.

Pocket staplers. This is the simplest stationery product with a paper binding function. Its size is about the size of a palm. The main part of the device is plastic. Productivity – a small number of A4 sheets. This mechanism It is characterized by low price, ease of operation and storage, and convenient transportation. You can buy such staplers in an online stationery store in Ukraine.

Tabletop view. To fasten paper with such a mechanism, you need a table or any other surface that is flat. This stapler is equipped with an anti-slip coating, which is why any movement from side to side is excluded. The mechanism includes a lever that must be pressed to hold the sheets together. Features of the type: adjustable binding depth, high power and efficiency (up to 300 sheets can be stapled!).

What types of paper binding are there?

Staplers are divided into types depending on the method of stitching paper sheets. The most common is the office type of fastening, known to employees of offices and organizations. This type is called closed. The main difference is that the staples are bent inwards, making stitching better and more reliable. It is not surprising that closed stitching is so common throughout the world. The other type, as you might guess, is open, that is, with an external bend of the staples. This method is rarely used and mainly when temporary fastening is required. If necessary, the sheets can be divided. The fastening leaves almost no marks.

There is another method of fastening, which is called rare. It consists in the fact that the papers are sewn together with staples that have a straight shape. This stapler is used for attaching notices to hard surfaces.

What do you need to know before purchasing?

Having decided to purchase a stapler, you need to clearly understand for what purpose it will be used: to fasten papers or to attach notices to dacha boards. For frequent office use, it is best to choose a high-quality desktop stapler whose parts are made of metal. But plastic stationery is suitable for rare use - 1-2 times a day. It is also necessary to take into account the power of the devices. If the power of the stapler is low, then it is unlikely to be able to staple 200 sheets at once - such a product can only handle 5-6 sheets.

It is equally important to pay attention to the manufacturer, including the staples - they can wrinkle, break and even get stuck, deforming the paper. Another important point concerns additional functionality stationery. It is advisable that the purchase have rubberized legs that look like pieces of material. These feet help protect the surface on which the device stands from scratches and cracks. When you come to the store, you should pay attention to the presence of a destapler, whose function is to unbend the staples if they are not installed correctly.

How does a stapler work?

The main part of the device is called the gutter. As a rule, it is made of metal - staples are inserted there to hold the paper together. Inside the gutter there is a plate that moves the staples. When you need to put staples, the stapler opens. For the device to function foldingly, you will need one plate of new staples - you can buy them at an office supply store. Modern models equipped with a front hole for installing staples. To open it, just press the button. If the buyer works with papers constantly, then it is best for him to pay attention to professional models stapler. Such mechanisms are suitable for loading several plates at once. At the same time, you can control how deep the sheets are attached.

The points described above will be useful when choosing office stapler and help you understand its structure.

What did you do relatively recently when you needed to change the upholstery? upholstered furniture or attach glassine to the frame of a house under construction? They took a hammer in one hand, nails in the other, and then “baled” them for a long time and tediously, and sometimes even on their fingers.

Today, few people want to perform such simple operations in the antediluvian way, especially with a large volume of work. After all, there is a stapler for this - a mechanical spring-action staple gun.
Well, if the tool suddenly fails, do not rush to throw it away - repairs may turn out to be quite simple.
Working with a stapler is a pleasure - load a block of staples into the magazine, place the gun in the desired place, press the lever - after a moment the material is securely attached to the base. When I needed to insulate the attic space country house I couldn’t be happier with Izolon (polyethylene foam) 10 mm thick - the stapler made my task so much easier. I attached about 70 m 2 of material to the roof slopes in a matter of hours. However, when there was very little left before the completion of the work, the tool began to “fool” - I press the lever, and instead of a bracket there is only an imprint of the striker plate. I checked the charger - the store is full.
I began to figure out what was going on (photo 1. 6).
I unloaded the magazine, turned out the adjusting screw, and then removed the spring. impact mechanism. After that, I removed the protective covers of the pistol body, first freeing the pins from the locking split washers, and got close to the firing pin. The cause of the malfunction immediately became clear - the thrust pad of the striker body had worn out, ensuring the interaction of the striker mechanism with the rocker arm of the trigger device.
To make this more clear to those readers who have encountered a similar problem, but have not yet understood its causes, I will try to briefly explain the principle of operation of a staple gun (see figure).

Typical design of a stapler - staple gun

The main executive element of the stapler is the drummer. It is under the action of a powerful spring, the degree of compression of which is adjusted using a corresponding screw.
A charger (magazine) is located perpendicular to the impact mechanism, in which staples are located under the action of a spring. In the non-working position, they are locked by a “striking pin” (a plate riveted to the firing pin body).
Impactor interaction with charger provides a trigger device consisting of a cocking lever, a rocker arm and two return springs.
When you need to drive a staple, you press a lever. In this case, the rocker with its “beak” grabs the striker by the protrusion in the body and lifts it, compressing the spring until the next bracket is in alignment with the striker. After this, the striker, under the action of a compressed spring, breaks away from the beak of the rocker arm, which continues to move along the arc, and the “striker” forcefully drives the bracket into the base.
Thus, the main condition proper operation pistol - the consistency of two processes - feeding staples and cocking the firing pin. The drummer should not break off the rocker arm ahead of time. If this happens, the pistol “fires empty”, i.e. the trigger is cocked and triggered, but the striker does not engage the shackle. This is exactly the situation that arises when the thrust pad of the protrusion of the firing pin body is worn out.
Repairing this problem will take a few minutes. It is enough to clamp the striker in a vice and, armed with a file, restore the original shape of the protrusion (photo 7).
In the same way, you can increase the service life of the pistol several times - it is enough to repeat a similar operation every time as soon as the pistol starts “firing empty” again. At the same time, you will have to sharpen (shorten) the striker plate.
So don’t rush to part with your instrument - it will still serve you if you take a little time to repair it.

How to adjust a mechanical, manual stapler (staple shooter) so that it finishes off the staples?

I have come across two options for adjusting staplers, both had to be adjusted.

I’ll say right away that all these instructions didn’t really help, I had to use about a dozen paper clips to achieve the best result, and then adjust it every 15-20 strokes as I worked. Therefore, the adjustment process is a constant action during use.

Another point - one builder advised relaxing the spring after work so that there is no stress on it during storage, this is the reason that it needs to be adjusted before each work.

The adjusting screw is located on top of the stapler; inside, along the entire length, there is a straight spring that presses on the firing pin. If you tighten the screw clockwise, the impact will be stronger and, accordingly, the paperclip will go deeper. By unscrewing the adjusting screw counterclockwise, the shock weakens.

In this version, the stapler is made using a leaf spring; it is this spring that presses on the striker and regulates the impact force. The adjustment screw is located under the handle. I don’t remember exactly which direction this screw needs to be turned, try it yourself. When you twist it, the plate bends and puts pressure on the striker, or the opposite effect occurs.

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If the stapler (staple shooter) does not finish the staples, then you need to tighten the adjusting stop screw, which will compress the shock spring more and the force during operation will be greater, the adjustment is designed so that the stapler (staple shooter) can use shorter staples and not spoil (damage) surface.

So tighten the adjusting screw all the way and everything will be fine!

But only if the stapler (staple shooter) is not designed for the length of the staples and cannot finish them off due to its design features or, frankly speaking, significant wear (sagging of the spring or loosening of the mechanism), then nothing can be corrected; it needs to be thrown into the scrap yard, since working with it will only be a punishment!

Here is a diagram of a mechanical (manual) stapler.

In order for it to finish off the staples, you need to compress the spring.

The spring is compressed by a screw, which is most often located at the top of the product itself, that is, in an accessible place.

And it is regulated by a simple twist, tighten the screw, the staples are hammered in harder, unscrew, the blow is weaker.

You need to adjust based on what material you are working with; you can first practice somewhere on an unnecessary piece.

Of course, there may be some nuances here; for example, it’s one thing to nail fabric to wooden frame and another thing is PVC lining.

If the adjusting bolt is tightened, the bracket can pierce through the PVC lining (the brackets are attached to the tenon of the lining).

If you constantly work with a stapler with one material, then there is no point in constantly turning this bolt, we set it and work, we need to replace the staples, we change it and don’t touch the screw.

If the adjustment is from scratch (new stapler), then we adjust from minimum to maximum, working with the same but rough material (for example, a piece of the same PVC lining), as soon as we visually agree with the depth of the staple, we stop adjusting.

Construction stapler does not fire staples

People do home renovations or woodworking jobs using heavy-duty staple guns to attach pieces of wood and other materials. They can shoot nails and staples when the handle is pressed. When using construction staplers, you must use right size and the number of staples. If construction stapler does not release staples, study it to clarify the issue.

Stapler does not shoot staples: instructions

1. Check the number of staples in the stapler if none come out. Look through the side viewing window of the stapler. Thread the stapler if you don't see any staples inside.

2. Turn the stapler upside down. Click on the latch. Pull it open to see how many staples are available.

3. Check the size of the staples to determine if they will fit the stapler. Replace with new staples if you are not using the correct size. Place them in the stapler with the pointed ends facing the container.

4. Pull out the staple if it is stuck in the opening where it should come out. Pry curved and corner staples with the tip of a knife until they come off easily.

Friday, August 8, 2014

How to choose, operate and repair a furniture stapler

Types of furniture staplers

Types of staplers according to the type of force applied:

A furniture stapler is a fairly universal tool with which you can not only perform furniture upholstery procedures, but also a number of other construction operations.

Today there are different operating principles:

• pneumatic,
• electric,
• manual.

Pneumatic staplers are used in industry, and electric and manual staplers are used in everyday life. Models belonging to the latter type are the most common in the furniture industry due to their mobility and ease of use. Let’s use this example to look at the principle of operation, operation and repair of furniture staplers.

However, before moving on to this procedure, I would like to say a few words about staples and their varieties.

The main indicator that is taken into account when choosing a bracket is its depth. Depending on the nature of the work performed, this indicator can vary from 4 to 14 millimeters.

So, for example, in order to carry out the procedure of upholstering furniture with fabric, a staple with a depth of 8 millimeters will be sufficient, while for fixing thicker materials, a staple with a greater depth should be selected.

Also, depending on overall dimensions, staples are divided into the following types:

• 53 - is the most common. Staples of this type have a width of 11.4 millimeters and a thickness of 0.7 mm. Depth of this fastening element varies from 4 to 14 millimeters;
• 140 – possessing the following characteristics: width – 10.6 millimeters, thickness – 1.2 mm, depth – similar to the previous type;
• 36 – this marking means that the stapler can shoot staples that have a semicircular shape and are mainly used for cable installation;
• 300 - These are special nails intended only for the stapler.

When choosing a bracket, you should also take into account the structure of the material from which it is made.

Regular steel staples work just fine on regular wood. However, if you are dealing with particle boards or plywood, you should purchase staples made of hardened steel, since regular ones can simply bend.

A manual construction stapler has a magazine into which a clip of staples or special nails is loaded. The bracket is hit by a firing pin, which is attached to the firing pin. The size of the striker in the tool depends on the dimensions of the consumables (staples) used. The hammer, in turn, touches the spring, the degree of compression of which is adjusted by a special screw. The shock is absorbed using a shock absorber located inside the stapler.

See the diagram for the device of the stapler:

Stapler device with a twisted mainspring

A coiled mainspring is installed on inexpensive models.

Manual stapler with a leaf (spring) mainspring

A stapler with a leaf spring is more powerful and expensive.

How to use a stapler

Refueling

In order to load the stapler with staples (i.e. load the staple gun), you must first move away the spring intended for pressing them. The staples themselves are placed in a special groove, in which, in fact, they need to be placed. After this, the spring is put in place. The tool is completely ready for use.

Video: how to thread a stapler with staples

Now you know how to insert staples into a stapler, we can proceed directly to work.

Shot

In order to fix necessary element, you should firmly attach the device to the place where you plan to hammer the staple. After this, without lifting the device from the surface, you must press the trigger button (lever). If these manipulations are successful, you will hear a characteristic sound and see a staple inserted into the material.

In order to protect yourself when working with a construction stapler, you should follow some rules:

• If you use a mechanical model of the device, it is necessary to adjust the screw regulator. This operation should be performed on a piece of rough material by rotating the screw from minimum to maximum. If the staple goes in all the way from the first shot, you can start working on the “finishing” part. Otherwise, re-adjustment is required;
• In order to drive the staples at the same distance, you should first mark the necessary places with a pencil or ballpoint pen;
• Hold the material with your free hand so that when firing it does not move from the pre-designated place;
• Keep track of the number of staples in the “store” so as not to be left without a single fastening element at the most inopportune moment;
• After finishing work, secure the handle with the safety catch to prevent spontaneous or accidental firing.

In addition to all the above tips, you may also need help repairing this construction tool, since the stapler, like any other equipment, tends to break.

Repair

The most common reason for stapler failure is impact mechanism failure. However, in order to get to it, you must first disassemble the tool. This can be done by performing a number of simple operations:

• Remove the adjusting screw;
• Remove the spring;
• Remove the protection cover;
• Remove the pins;
• Remove the lock washers.

If the list of actions does not make it clear to you how to disassemble the stapler, then you can see this in the video below.

After performing all the above manipulations, you will be able to see the drummer, which, for the most part, fails due to the exhaustion of its resource.

In order to repair this element, you should remove it, place it in a vice and, using an ordinary file, give the striker its original shape.

That's it, the repair is completed, and the instrument is again in full combat readiness.

Tips on why the stapler does not work and how to fix it:

• If your tool does not finish (does not finish) the staples, then try tightening the spring, it may have weakened;
• If a construction stapler bends the staples, try adjusting the spring tension bolt (relax or tighten, experiment). Another probable cause of malfunction is a mismatch between the type of staples and the structure of the material - for chipboard and plywood it is recommended to buy staples made of hardened steel;
• If the staples do not come out of the stapler, but bend and get stuck inside, perhaps the striker (tongue) that pushes them has become rounded and needs to be sharpened;
• If the mechanism itself works, but the staple does not fire, it is possible that the staple does not grip, or the firing pin has worn out. Try filing the firing pin and turning the damper with the other side.

Watch the video to see how to repair a staple gun with your own hands.

Video: do-it-yourself stapler repair

How to disassemble a furniture stapler, what to do if it jams. What could be the reason, what to do if the construction stapler does not fire staples:

The real-time video shows step by step how to disassemble the stapler, what could be the cause of the breakdown and how to fix it yourself, as well as how to assemble the stapler.

Video review of staplers

You can also look short video on a review of furniture staplers, as well as the principle of filling, setting and working with them:

Good luck to all home craftsmen, if you have any questions - write!